 Welcome to RodeRite. I'm Joshua Bardwell, and I'm Paul Nerkala. We have something really exciting for you guys today So CineWoops are one of my favorite tools, right? So these CineWoops, this is the chendron escort We've got a couple of them What I love about these is that they can do things that other camera systems can't you can't go from really high To low to through to under to over in the way that these kinds of systems can I've been really inspired by people like Robert Macintosh who is this the founder of real study There's a skateboarding video called pretty sweet and I've seen that Macintosh made the intro for that video back in like 2012 When drones like didn't even fly he did this awesome Single-take movement where he started up over around through down just like we're trying to create here today that Style of filmmaking really inspired me so I got really excited about the chendron squirt when Andy Shen sent it to me Okay, so let's break down the parts that are gonna go into this build and in case you didn't figure it out by now This is not just Paul and me talking about how cool CineWoops are for two hours This is a build video so the chendron squirt swings three inch props that are cut down to like 2.8 inches So the idea with these ducts is that they actually increase airflow as it comes in So as the airflow as air gets pulled into the ducts It increases the speed at which it goes through and that in turn adds extra thrust And so in order to make this fly better the ducts are there and you have to have the the props Is finally as close as you can to the outside of the duct companies like Gemfan have come out with props that are actually designed For the chendron squirt like it became a popular enough thing that they designed props custom made for okay And in case it's not obvious There are links to all of the parts for this build including these props and everything else we're using on my channel down in the video Description down in the video description of this and for sale on the road to ride store if you want to follow along with this Okay motors, what are we doing for motors? Let's crack this out while you tell us what we're doing So these are the T motor f20 v2s. We chose the 3250 kv variant and these are some pretty smooth motors When you're going for smooth flying you definitely don't want a super super notchy motor So we've got the hobby wing g2 stack. This is a 60 amp ESC. It's probably overkill for this drone But I love like I'm sponsored by hobby wing. I love hobby wing. I use everything from hobby wing Okay, but this is just like the perfect ESC. It's just the same ESC van over races with the 60 amp hobby wing I think so this is like van over races for a whole season and said it was the most bulletproof ESC I race it for a whole season to understand. I mean one of there's one of them is I'm just, you know, let's not get into it And then also we're gonna be working with the DJI FPV air unit. We're gonna do high definition build You certainly can do you fly typically high def or do you fly analog mostly? I fly a lot of both But for siney stuff, I definitely lean on the side of the air unit Especially for environments like this where you can kind of you go forever. You have no break up no multi-path thing And just the clearest signal possible Well, one of the things I love most about flying with DJI is that if for some reason your GoPro video craps out You have like a semi usable backup is very nice to have that 1080 recording on board This frame that we're working with is the Shen drones squirt and that was designed by Andy Shen Yep, just for anybody who doesn't know who is Andy Shen. He's he's my sensei He's and it started designing drone frames way back when and it eventually came up with this design Andy was designing drone frames like when four drones drone frames were a thing And I think we kind of have forgotten how much we got from him If you want to check out his website is Shen drones dot com one of my favorite things about Andy is that he does Design logs yes of all of the missteps and failures of designing a quadcopter frame before finally sometimes He results in a commercial frame and sometimes he just gives up and says this doesn't work Thank you Andy. We all wouldn't be here without the work that you did Where do we start the build Paul best place to start is with a little bit of frame assembly That's where I like to start especially because we're gonna need to lock tight everything. So with with all of these guys I find that there ends up being like some sort of weird Oscillation that is never like detectable on footage or anything like that, but it eventually works the screws loose So especially when you're like with the ducks like you really have to push them on and off and pull them on and off And when you do that a whole bunch like eventually you're gonna start losing your screws and stuff like that So I locked tight. I don't I almost never locked tight. I actually take a lot of heat for never locked tight I also I just check your one time check your screws that they're tight and you'll be fine But not on this build don't get some locked tight get some locked it blue lock tight right blue lock Take blue lock not the red stuff and now some people may be used to seeing me be the guy Giving the instructions and taking the lead but today. I'm just learning from Paul and providing comic relief Good to see people finally working in their strengths So are you're just dipping those screws in the lock tight a little bit before you put them on and you're installing the vertical standoffs Right. Yeah, so there's three tiny little ones that are on the outside and then there's four on the inside Different size standoffs. I don't know the length. So they different size. Yes Yes, so the no it's great because the ducks so the ducks don't go all the way through here So you see the thing so you need those smaller ones on the outside in the middle Let's take a look We got these smaller ones on the outside and longer ones where they're gonna go They're gonna go on the floor in the middle once you've got your the frames And then the look and then this will all sit all the way through it And actually look ends up looking really good because then you have this full TPU kind of cover. Yeah, it's great But you have to remember not to put the long ones on the other ones are the icy the longer ones are the green ones Yes, yeah, the black ones are the smaller ones. Oh, that makes it easy at least they're a different color Andy loves his pastel colors Also loves his dogs. What are kind of dogs? Yeah, but they are gorgie For his corgis. Look at that. I'm thinking about corgis and I put the wrong standoff on Wow Let's put some pictures of corgis up on this video of maybe Andy's own Drew's scratching his head behind me as if no, we'll edit this part out, but no corgis Yeah, the standoffs are great. I would put the motors on next. Do you want to do that? I'll be happy to do that. I would also lock tight those okay for the same exact reason Here we'll use a duct to hold all the stuff in place. No, that's convenient So I'm installing these motors. Well, he's finishing and sawing those motors I'm gonna start opening up the ESC because that'll be our next Step. It's a good idea. I haven't done this Because I'm assuming that we've done our research It's a good idea when you do a build the very first time Check the length of the motor is take your screw and hold it against the frame Where it's gonna be and see if it is gonna extend past the end of the motor base Because if the screw is too long and touches the windings It will cut into the insulation on the windings and damage them and basically destroy your motor and you may be thinking well The screws came with the motor so surely they're the right length But the problem is that the motor designer doesn't know how thick your frame is gonna be and the they've made some assumptions So you always want to double-check this I didn't double-check this and these screws are like a half a millimeter away from touching the windings They are really really close but not touching. So if you buy the hobby wing stack as like a one complete kit like the both the Flight controller and the ESC it comes with all of the hardware You need to like build the stack and standoffs all that inside of the frame But we have brought ourselves separate individual ones So we're kind of scrounging for some extra stuff. Because we knew that some of you would have bought them separate individually too Not because we're unprepared. So what we've got here for hardware is these are 25 millimeter M3 screws And these are some just little nylon threaded spacers. These are actually metal, but you'll probably use nylon Yeah, what I would suggest you do is just get like an M3 nylon spacer assortment Pretty sure it's sold on the rotor at store. There's a link in the video description if there if it is It comes with these spacers in various lengths. Well, Joshua is screwing around Yeah, I'm gonna go ahead and tin up our ESC so that we have it already Before I work on any electronics always make sure that it's tinned and that we will be able to make nice clean joints on it That was not a clean joint because I'm standing so far away from this For the purposes of the camera. So let's get a close-up here of the placement. So there is a front and a back Right, let's be clear. How can they identify the front in the back? You need to leave space for the FPV air unit and this like this is the version of the Schindler on squirt that's built for the air unit. So if you look at the bag, you can see that there's plenty of room left for the The magical box, but here we've got a set of 20 millimeter holes and Another set of 20 well like one two three and one two three That's sort of the front and then this space back here with no holes is the back And we've got four of our M3 screws going through the front set of 30 millimeter mounting holes The outside one giving us some spacing from the bottom plate Excellent normally I would just mount the ESC with the capacitor and the battery leaves poking out the back me too But not this time not on the squirt because why so because we have to put the FPV air unit out the back essentially like this With the capacitor there and the big battery tabs on the way you see it's getting in the way So how should we do it? He shows so I would just take everything and turn it sideways, okay? And I after they're going out one side and I've played around with it a bunch And if you put the Ducks on it will still fit with the capacity and what we're gonna need to do also is we're just gonna bend the capacitor up a little bit Right just keep it out of where I wanted it. Oh you did that was right where you wanted it Yeah, it's like off to the side a little bit and then it all see when we put the ducts on You'll see why the capacitor has to go there exactly okay cool So we need to put the battery lead on this is probably a little bit too long I was trying to kind of measure it out So like essentially once the standoffs are on here and then the top plate's on you don't need a ton of length on this Squirt to reach the battery length so I'm thinking something like Yeah, okay So I'll cut it here. I heard you weren't that impressed my soldering You're making fun of my soldering. There was a video about the white noise I Remember a wire and your biggest complaint about it was that they were hard to solder because the pads are so close together That you bridge the pads No Never a lot a lot of people have that problem before we try to put the XC60 picktail on we want to tin up the Leads so that it's easier to get make that joint. Don't breathe this stuff Yeah, it's really bad for you. Yeah, very bad for you Okay, so these are now tinned up or positive as towards the front end the way we have this configured You should always double check this a few times. Yeah double triple check that you red red to Positive and black to negative But there's a camera guy there and there and there and they're all watching too so they know that we did it, right? So soldering is a thing that a lot of people struggle with in this hobby because nobody gets into FPV because they want to learn to Solder they want to learn to fly and soldering is just an annoying thing that you got to get out of the way in order to get in the air But if you're bad at soldering your quadcopters are going to fly bad and fall out of the sky So this is not a soldering tutorial, but if you're struggling to solder this great big XT60 That may be a sign that you should practice soldering some more before you finish the rest of the build because this is the most Forgiving of the pads the great big ones the little tiny ones are just going to come off But it's also the most difficult because you need so much heat right, but the point is it this will if Your technique is bad. This will show you that your technique is bad. So what's good technique? What's good technique good technique is to have a hot temperature controlled iron If you have one of those like 30 watt irons that isn't temperature controlled It doesn't have a thermostat that you turn up and down That's not as good clean tip clean silver shiny tip Not an oxidized tip if you put solder on the tip and the solder balls up Instead of spreading out on the tip stop Do not proceed you need a new tip or you need to clean your tip if you are having trouble getting the solder to flow It's all craggy and not turning liquid that is a sign your iron is not hot enough It's not driving heat into the joint another thing you generally don't want to do is you want to lay the wire flat Against the pad you don't want to come out like this because then there's not a lot of surface contact between the end of The wire see the strands of the wire are just kind of like this, and they're not you're not getting good surface contact How'd you? Sometimes you can get away with it But yeah, I want the I want the leads to come out because this is a really high-gauge wire You can picture like the battery strap going on and holding it like that So that then the lead of the battery will just come in and plug it on the back like that so Probably not going to eject many of these batteries anyway, so it really doesn't matter if that's a very sound joint Next step motors motors, so we've got the XT60 wired up. Yes Now we got to do the motors. Yes, I got three motor wires. Yep. I got three motor pads Yep, does it matter the order? It does not matter the order depending on who you ask and how you want to do it So each of the motors have to spin a different direction right the cork the opposite corners spin Opposite or the same direction as each other and then next to each other spin the opposite direction There's two ways to change the motor direction. The first is you can solder so there's three wires Those are the individual phases of the motor if you swap any to phase the direction that the motor Spins is reversed but you can also use software to program the ESC and change the direction digitally now I'm kind of of the opinion that you just get it right when you build it. That's just easier How do you know which way they're gonna? Oh, you just you swap the leads to make the motor spin the right way Okay, but some to people the other way I'm of the opinion when I when I solder it I just run the wire straight. It makes clean neat wiring and then rather than pull up my soldering iron back out I just rather do it on the computer one way is not better than the other It totally doesn't matter as long as the motor ends up spinning the right direction at the end of the day Exactly. All right. I'm gonna start these up. Cool. So I'm kind of just gauging out the distance of the wire that I want I'll pull it out Get it nice and tight. I always have a mistake I make where I get the motor exactly the right length then I strip it and tin it and cut it And then it's too short. I always leave myself like three millimeters of slack to avoid it Because once you've made a motor wire too short, it's a real pain to fix. I did that. I just misspoke You cut wires to exactly the right length. They'll be too short a little bit of slack is good in a quad because a little bit of slack Also helps take up vibration if things are really taught Then when you crash and stuff, then they break. Okay. One two three. There you go All right, you probably put a zip tie or something on that, but we'll do that We'll get to that. This is all none of this is an exact sign It's like at this point it kind of becomes an art project. It's how pretty do you want to make it versus how effective well I had that not that pretty and effective have to be mutually exclusive but I'm much more on the just get it done and flying side because Well more than half of my clubs are race quads and they all get beat to crap It must be really different for you flying a Cinewhip because Cinewhip's a you know a lot less So nice, you know, all right, so the front two I'm gonna run them underneath the spike controller I'm just gonna pass them around instead of in front of the standoffs You like lift this guy up a little huh? Oh, yeah, if you do that You want to be real careful when you push it down not to pinch the wires, you know what? I'm not even gonna cut those back. I think they're gonna be just right Okay, so we better started it all of our motor side it up very important to double check that there are no solder bridges Correct that none of these are touching each other basically So the way I do that is give the motor a little spin and if it freewheels at all, it's fine If it stops immediately, that's really clever. There's a principle called feck drag Which means that when two phases are shorted to each other didn't know the word for that It will actually kind of self-break. Yeah, I'm trying to use in the screwdriver to short these two. Oh, there you go Oh, yeah, look so now there's a ton of resistance in order to move the motor But then when I release it it spins and that's how you know, I've got a shorter that's a really good tip Okay, motor started up next flight controller Right. I like controllers super easy because it comes with this plug. You just plug it in here. You plug it in there So here we go boom plug and Go ahead. I want you but man. Oh, we need these spacers. Don't we? Yeah Here's the here are the spacers jump the gun when you put those spacers on Don't screw them down so tight that you crush those gummies those gummies are for vibration isolation Vibration isolation is important It makes the quad run smoother and it helps protect the delicate electronics from damage when you crash That's not as big a deal on a Cinewhip, which shouldn't be crashed super hard super fast most of the time Watch me. We'd hope but especially if you're building a racing or freestyle quad That's why the ESC has gummies on it. Even though the ESC doesn't actually Have vibration sensitive instruments like the flight controller So squeeze them down tight enough that the gummies are just a little compressed But not so tight that they're completely crushed and the vibration isolation is Defeated so the flight controller we have this plugged in and then we can plug into the ESC Okay, and we turn the ESC sideways. Do we need to turn the flight controller sideways? No, okay So because we're not using so the ESC is built to be put in Forward so that you just wire each corner directly together now. We've turned it So each motor is now corresponding to a Incorrect pad. Yeah, exactly. So we're gonna have to do some work and software later So we might as well just cleanly mount our flight controller this way because we're gonna have to do work on it Anyway, one thing I can't help but notice is that puts the usb port facing the back Is that is that there's no way so with the squirt There's no way to reach the flight controller the usb anyway Oh because of that. So you have to take it apart to use the usb Not ideal room for improvement Andy. Well, I've always thought about like getting like a usb extension Like it's just like a little one. So run it out the bottom or something, but yeah So that is one annoying thing about the squirt But once like the beauty of this is like once you build it you have everything working You put it together and you just don't ever have to change anything. You don't break props on it You don't burn electronics like it just is done and it works. All right, so we're gonna put these nuts on top Um, yeah, just keep it in place Best cases if those are nyloc nuts, these are the only ones we had on hand And um, these will back out Eventually If you put them on tight enough that they don't back out then they crush the gummies, right? So nyloc would be better But this is what we're going with for now because that's what we got. Yep. All right next step air unit Uh, yeah, so the air unit I would build I've only built like one quad with the air unit And I still use my own receiver just because I My my air unit transmitter is broken Why is it broken paul? My friend poured powerade on it. His friend poured powerade on it Now there's some flight controllers Where you can just literally plug the air unit into the flight controller. That's so nice and long The hobby wing is not one of those we're gonna be soldering this up But we will literally only have one two three four five six solder joints And then we're just done with the build pretty much We got uh red power two to four s two to four s voltage It can the air unit can handle natively If you're going above four s The uh hobby wing flight controller actually has a three amp regulator that you can use We're gonna use it anyway 12 volt three amp 12 volt. That's more than enough. We're gonna use this anyway If somebody one day plugs in a six s battery by accident It won't fry the thing black is ground future proofing white and gray Are to let you get battery voltage in your goggles And then yellow is the control connection and that's another ground wire and if that all didn't make sense We got a graphic showing you exactly where to put these wires on this flight controller. We're gonna go ahead and solder them up Let's mount the air unit first or that so that we're gonna go ahead and mount that air unit Then we'll solder it up. Um, so if you look at the back There's a little hole here conveniently placed so that when you put the No usb Fit you can still get access to it and uh, what about your sd card comes out the top And being brilliant your siphon and we don't deserve you So I was just wondering like oh, how do we mount this inside of the frame? And so I go and look at the one that we have pre-built over here And it turns out there's a little tpu mount a little 3d printed Okay, so we gotta get this Stand it up in there. Yeah, so now we get those standoffs back for a lot tight We're gonna put our big frame standoffs on okay, so tpu mount thingy. Let's show them. Hold on. Don't rest. Don't rest I'm so excited though. So we get this tpu mount Here's the piece It's gonna go with the flat side down over the standoffs and half of you guys are going of course barred Well, what do you think we are idiots and half of you are going no do it slower I got you guys So I wanted to point out one thing is so at the beginning of this video We started out like pretty evenly balanced on this table and progressively barred while it's pushed me further and further out to the side of the That's not true. That's not true. It just goes in and it sits right there. It's so good Okay, so that's gonna go in. Yep, and then this is gonna come around Yeah, I put it inside of the standoff. Yeah, perfect inside the standoff And then it's all it's gonna get sorted up exactly like that diagram boom diagram Okay, so next we're gonna put the camera on because the camera is the lowest part of the front of this Machine and so we have this mount created by our own julian at rotor riot and by our I mean there And it bends back And sits down a little bit further So that it's flush to the ground, which is actually pretty awesome. So like if I push this all the way down, okay I might have this upside down. No, I don't okay How can you tell if you got it upside down? It's because now it sits all the way on the ground So it's just like you just got this chin. I see I see Oh, I see I see the top part kind of angles up And then let's see the can we say I can figure this out the camera is just gonna go into these screw holes But wait josh, what happens if you put it on upside down? We just flip it over right In soft but you can do it, but you can do it in the goggles Did you know you could do that? Yeah? Yeah, I did that I screwed that up Because I'm gonna take these won't you share that personal story Oh my god, so Joshua, what happens if you put the camera in upside down? Funny you should ask that Paul because The camera actually has an up-facing arrow on the back So you can make sure to install it right side up But if you do install the camera upside down you can flip it in the image in the dji goggles So the camera is installed right side up right here We got these one and two screws right here this bottom screw sets the angle What angle do you typically fly out for commercial shooting in cinema stuff? No more than 10 degrees like very low. It's almost all very very slow and go This is probably more angle than you would want. Yeah, but I'm like 20 You can't you can always fly I find that it's always easier to fly slower With a higher tilt than it is to fly Faster with a larger cameras installed on the front next What's next? No, the only thing that's left is to install the ducts But it's really hard to put props on After you've put the ducts on wow So I like to put the props on first and then put the ducts on as weird as that sounds Okay, so I went over and got some props for this build And we're gonna run props out so that way can I show you a pro tip? He's going to use a motor wrench because you can't grip the motors tight enough to cinch down the nuts And this is a battery strap. In fact, it is the chendron's battery strap that comes with the squirt That's the last one pro tip. He is rubberized It's got like a grippy rubber finish if you wrap it around the motor and I cinch the battery strap down To cause the motor to not rotate while I tighten it props are on now we install the ducts The ducts So the I start with the middle one usually Okay, this is going to go here He's ignoring what did I not start with the middle one? Yeah, put the middle one Push the push the middle oh, I didn't know there was I see. Oh, there's one under here I didn't get that so here from the underside. We're gonna get the middle one. I just didn't understand you Then we're gonna kind of push down on all the others It's very flexible. So it's very easy to get it lined up. It is. It's not really rocket science It's so satisfying when it drops into place and okay. Oh, here we go Oh, yeah That's good So smooth and satisfying now on this one. You're gonna want to get the capacitor out of the way, right? So I just wanted to up into the side a little bit. It doesn't need a lot Okay, get those antennas out of the way Best to have a friend to help you learn acquaintance So the capacitor is kind of tucked to the side of the duct here Just tucked out of the way now these little finally these little things go on. Yep Where's the other one they go on the back there's no front the front okay on the front on top the back one The back one is done by the antenna holder upper That's gonna go on the front. They're gonna they're gonna slide down on the front on top of the camera There you go. Yep on the back one We see our uh FPV air unit And then screw goes through the bottom of the GoPro mount on both sides so that it's These are the uh same screws. They're just gonna go right down into the standoffs. Yep All right, so we've put our GoPro mount in I've put it at the uh, I pushed it all the way forward I don't know why I did that. Okay, but I like it there. Yeah. Nice. We also got to put this battery pad on We got a little bit of umma grip. Umma grip the universal super sticky battery pad Don't need quite as much as we have here. So I'll just cut it nice about there. Oh, it's perfect You got that you nailed it. Okay. Look at this. Oh, that's hot. You got the little SD card holder right there But like what what if I want to plug in my air unit to update the firmware you flip it over? Oh USB-C Yeah, it's so good. So we are done building the sinewup the shendrone squirt everything's assembled We just have to plug it into the computer do a little bit of configuration On the the flight controller in the ESC and we are ready to go flying. So let's go do that now This sinewup needs to be all tuned up in the mid flights There are a lot of things that are not working right now. For example, the motors don't spin and have we even plugged this in yet? We haven't even smoked check it. Let's uh come on come on over here. Let's see what happens We gotta smoke check it. We've got director drew coming in to check our work. Oh god It's okay. I think that what we first need to do is show them the things that are going to be the same For every air unit. Okay. There's a just a very few settings That everybody using dji is going to need to change. Let's dive in. Okay. We plugged in. Yes. So we're going to connect here In the ports tab We're going to need to set up our are we going to reflash this first three five six you arts But first we're going to reflash it because three five six. That's like the bg's we're going to firmware flasher What uh, what's the target for this flight controller? Do you know the omnibus s F4 sd in case you don't know the answer to that you can go to the cli and type the word version And it'll show you the target here. Let's show them at home how to do it Okay, I'm cycling the power on the flight controller. So we go out of dfu mode. Okay plugging it back in now We can connect on tt usb load them because we're on a mac good work So we can go to the cli and we can type the word version Oh version. I just hit dump and scroll all the way back up that will also work Or we can just look up here where it says target s4 and the configurator Omnibus f4 sd that's the information you need So then we're going to put it in bootloader mode We can do that by typing bl at the command line or you can hold down the bootloader button. You can type bl. That's da Badass We're now ready to flash. We're new to firmware flasher Omnibus f4 sd is what we want to see and we want to flash beta flight 41 Load firmware. We loaded the firmware and we're going to flash the firmware. All right We're going to connect beta flight 4.1 is going to ask you to apply custom defaults. Just say, okay Yeah, sure. We're good. We're good with that. There's a reason for that But we're not going to dive into that now that we're done flashing we're going to connect We're going to go to the port set where there are two ports. We need to configure One is one receiver. It's for the receiver. That's s bus. You are three is for the air unit Okay, that's and that is not you may notice how the default is set up. That's okay screw defaults We're going to go you are three We're going to enable the msp column you are one. We're going to enable serial rx That is literally all you have to do. It's just that easy Save and reboot check moving on on that tab. That's all you have to do. We're going to connect again We're going to go configuration tab And we are going to Set up a serial receiver. Yep, and s bus s bus and save and reboot So since this is a dji product, the very first thing you are going to want to do is register it Which dji people are completely used to and update it if And update it for work. Yeah, because some new updates just came out. They're always coming out. So Get your sbc cable It is pretty easy easier than like with beta flight. All you got to do is run this dji assistant software And then we need to power on the air unit and plug it in and we're going to update the air unit The controller if you're using the controller and the goggles Boom FPV air unit start activation If this is the first time you've done it you'll have to make an account and all that nonsense Definitely read all those terms read every word of it. I've read Next yep, it's activated. It'll ask you if you want to update the firmware Downloading the next thing we should do is we should bind our dji controller and our goggles So you actually have to bind the goggles first and then the controller If you bind the controller first and then the goggles the controller will lose its bind So maybe we should grab some goggles too. Okay, that's right Thank you paul plug it in. Okay. Thank you. So to bind our FPV air unit and our goggles. I'm going to first plug in the air unit As well as the goggles which are already plugged in and then right next to the Micro sd port. There's a little hole reach in give it a poke The led will turn red red and then on the air unit goggles, there's a button next to the power Give it a poke Or it's or it's gonna blow up. Hey, I can see dan over there And the led is green and the led is green goggles around goggles around. How do we bind the radio josh? Funny you should ask that. It's as simple as pressing three specific buttons at a time three Yeah, because on the goggles under the air unit, there's just one little bind button But on the controller you have to hold down this button right here the record button and This little scrolly ball it pushes in you push those all at the same time But first you got to turn it on to turn it on Press it once and then hold it down. We're going to hold down boom record button and The led here goes blue Go ahead and hit our bind button again on the air unit And we're bound the next thing we're going to do is we're going to go into beta flight And we're going to check the receiver tab make sure that we've got our aet r setting And it looks like we're we need to see is that first of all that the receiver channels move And we're just double check, but this should be correct throttle Is throttle give me the full y'all left y'all left y'all right good Pitch forward pitch Beauty roll, I'd say that's all correct. So we don't need to talk about channel mapping. So we'll go back to config tab What else do we need to do? Let's put our motors on D shot 600 because we're not doing RPM filtering No, yes, sir. No Bidirectional D shot. No motor poles. We're gonna ignore What do you set for the idle value? I do 4.0 throttle value on the sinewoop I want it to drop a little bit faster so that if I'm like because I'm a lot of times I'm like shooting gaps So I want to be able to just come off throttle and keep going into something. So okay, so we've got D shot 600 We want probably 8k 8k for the gyro in the pit loop by thing for sure. Yeah Barrow and mag no off. We don't need a craft aim because we're not Running OSD. Air mode on that's the default. Do you fly with air mode on? Yes. Okay. I also do OSD whatever anti-gravity on dynamic filter on all good minimum arm angle is 180 That disables the minimum arm angle which allows you to arm the quad at any angle. What that That shouldn't normally happen Okay, we've got to set up our arming mode down into modes. We are gonna need the air unit turned on for that So I'm gonna unplug this back in Okay, we'll hit add range. Hang on in a minute. I'm gonna flip this Switch as soon as we're green. Okay. I'm gonna flip the switch. I'm using for arming Okay, I like to use the upper left switch flip that switch You should now see the little yellow indicator moving put the switch into the armed position Do you push away to arm or pull towards Paul push away to arm? I'm gonna push the switch away So it's in the armed position and then I'm gonna look at where that little yellow carrot is And I'm gonna put the drag it over so it covers it and you can hit save Uh, should we just do turtle mode war here turtle mode short turtle mode flips quad over if you land upside down After adding the range, we're gonna flip the switch. I like this one on the front personally So I'm gonna flip that and uh put it in the turtle mode position all the way down Okay, again move the slider so it covers that little carrot and hit save and angle mode I like to use the three same three position as turtle mode. Okay, so middle position will be angled Up will be neither and down will be turtle mode. We'll put it in the middle position. So we're already in the middle So we'll leave it there. Okay And then do this hide unused modes. You can check your modes pretty So we got turtle mode. I've never seen that switch before angle mode off and then arming mode which is turning red, but Once we unplug we should be good. Yep. Okay. We got our mode set up. We got to check our motor directions Yes, the first thing that we're going to do is we're going to check to see if we have our motors lined up with our flaky Trout now I can tell you right now that we don't because we turned the esc sideways And wired each motor to the esc directly without wiring it like all the way around to like motor one to four Whatever, so what i'm going to do is i'm going to go and i'm going to go on motor one And i'm going to start to spin it up and what do you know motor two on the quad starts to spin Okay, what are we doing? I make a column and it's the slider number So we've got sliders one two three and four. Okay. It's the motor position And if that's if you look in the diagram the positions are one two three and four, okay, and then the pin number So what we're going to do the sliders are one two three and four and we're going to raise the sliders one Slider one moves motor two slider one moves motor two slider two moves motor four slider three moves motor one and slide four moves motor three three Okay, now we got to go to the cli and We're going to just tell you guys what to put in the cli if you're following along Rather than making like try to explain to you exactly how to do it because I think that might be confusing resource motor two b zero zero We're just going to take this stuff from the position column and map the pins motor two b zero zero resource motor four b zero one resource motor one eight oh three resource motor three eight oh two and save those lines Those lines we can give them in the In the video description or whatever they can copy paste them in but essentially what we've done is we've said to Each so we've taken the pin numbers for which each motor is on and then we've said we've we've figured out which slider moves which And we're just reassigning the pins to the proper motor so that now when josh goes into the motors tab When he pushes slider one motor one, which is this one right here will move instead of motor three Which is what it was doing before yes motor one How about the direction want to make a note of the direction for us is the wrong direction motor two is the correct position Going the right way correct direction motor three correct position and direction and motor four Going the wrong way Okay, so motors one and four need to be reversed we got a disconnect from beta flight scooch on over to Be all la 32 do it go to zipport connect check for ec's Get rid of all but one Reverse it Right put your thing down Just flip it Reverse it and then get rid of that go to more four Unreverse it right Okay So motor four was going the wrong direction because we reversed it previously. So we're now we'll unreverse it. Yep disconnect to normal Go back to the motors tab one last time double check our work always double check because you think you got it right But you might not have got it right correct and correct Hey, what do you know we are Ready geniuses to maiden are we ready to maiden can we put it back together and can we fly it? Can we maiden it can we fly it can we fly it are we ready throttle down? Arm now don't raise the throttle just bump the pitch and roll stick a little And if that happens then something ain't right That's why I don't just raise the throttle and we did not stage that you could tell from my sincere reaction that that was What's wrong paul? We got the props on board alignment. We didn't fix the board alignment We have remapped the motors because we twisted the ec 90 degrees We also need to remap the flight controller. So if you check it out If you look at this 3d model here, you'll see that when I pitch the quad forward It actually is moving on the roll axis in this 3d model. It's not right. Okay, so we're going to go to the configuration tab We're going to put in negative 90 or 270 your pick degrees save and reboot We're going to connect and we'll just double check here. We will pitch forward. It picked them 3d model pitches forward Okay Now now we're ready now. Let's close it up to maiden it which we definitely didn't already do one time While paul is closing this up. Let me remind you that we have a full config dump All this work if you've watched us through configuring it that's cool because you won't learn how to do it But if you just want to get your quad set up the same as ours, there's a config dump It's linked in the video description You can paste it into the cli and then you'll just be set up and you should be ready to go Although you should still check Like you should still do your hover maiden carefully because if anything did get screwed up your quad will try to flip out All right, let's maiden Oh, those props sound good Thank you guys so much for watching Links to this down in the video description Thanks to paul nerkola for helping us build a sinewup and check out some sinewup footage If you stick this on your chest, I'll stick this on my chest. Okay, three two one