 Hello everybody and welcome back to my V-LOG channel. Now, this is a little quick. You want to show you a couple of things when it comes to these boards. Now, this is, I've been calling them genuine, the Highland stuff, but as you can see now, one of the links I've put in, it's not actually genuine, but they are one of the retailers, manufacturers that actually produce these boards and they work. This is one of those boards. Now, normally when you connect up your meter, you wouldn't connect it to the output. And the reason why you wouldn't connect it directly to the output is because it has to be powered on by something. It has the separate power on and then it's got a sense wire. And the sense wire is to detect what voltage is actually needs to be displayed on the screen. And so you need a separate power supply for the power to actually power this up itself. So you can actually give this some power itself and you've got to give it the sense wire so it knows what to display on the screen. Right. Well, on these boards here, generally you could, if you wanted to, ideas on my build and it worked very well, thank you, you connect it up to the 24 volts coming up. Now, you can change these regulators. Help me put a 12-volt regulator in there if you want to and you'll have 12 volts coming down here. But these can go up to 28 volts. So I'm going to use a 24-volt regulator that came with it. So to keep in mind, if you were to use a 12-volt regulator and consider it like this, if you're using 24 volts and you're just pulling half an amp, you don't, with a linear regulator, whatever voltage is not being used, let's say you're pulling 24 volts in, you're using a 12-volt regulator and you're pulling half an amp. So that means it's got 12 volts difference between the input and the output. And that means it's got to dissipate the heat because whatever current you're pulling through, you've got to times that. So the half amp by the 12-volt difference on these would be 6 watts. So it's got to dissipate 6 watts of heat. All right. That's something to keep in mind. Right. So what you'd normally get when you power up, which I'm about to now, is what you should be able to see on your oscilloscope. This is set for 10 volts per division and it's in DC mode. So click that down and you'll see it shot straight up, 10, 20. And that would be 24 volts. And you can see there, 24 volts bang on. Beautiful. Nice, clean line. And that's what you expect to see. And that means I'll power that quite nicely. I've actually got this twiddled to 5 volts. Yeah, that's about there. That'll do. And that's what you should expect to see. Now, when it comes to this bore that I've just bought, and yes, it does work. Not a problem with it. But, well, I said not a problem because here's the butt. We do have a small issue. And that is when you try to connect to the fan here, there's a lot of noise. And I'm going to show you that. So just bear with me. I'll do a jump cut on this so we can just save time. This is just like a little thing in the middle of the jump cut. Just so you know, yeah, so if you're connecting this, you'd have your red and black. And that will connect to an external or a separate power supply. Because if this goes below 5 volts, it just switches off. So if you were trying to do a 3.3 volt or whatever voltage below 5 volts, you're not going to get any power to this. You won't be able to see whether it's 5 volts or below. That's why you're going to have this separate supply. So your yellow wire then will go on to the positive output. And this black wire, this is the current sense. So what you'd have is your load, whatever device you're having connected, would come out of the positive. And on this case, it's this resistor. It'll come back through the red into this, the positive into the current detect, and then come back out through this ground. And the ground also gives the ground for this to work. If you don't put the ground in and you're just trying to sense it, it's not going to work. You won't see your voltage on there. So you've got to make sure you have this grounding and the sense on there and you can actually see what the voltage is across there. Not all of these are the same. I'm just going to let you know now this is the one with the two little twiddlies in there for the voltage and the current. There's two ICs in there. And it also has the four digits up top, four digits down the bottom. Not all of them like that. You might have to connect it up slightly different for different ones. But for this particular one, that's how you connect that up, right? Back to the jump cap. One of them is I've just connected this up as it was connected on the other one. And I've left this because we're not trying to sense the current here. We don't need to. The issue is going to be seen straight away as soon as I put down the power. So I'll put down the power. And as you can see over there, our nice DC is not nice DC anymore. This is awful. And if we look here, we can see that it says 5.6 amps and it's at 12.3 volts. Now, if I just turn this up a little tiny bit, we can clear that. That says it's 8.2 volts and zero amps. But that's an old go. And even though it seems to clear the issue there, we've still got this horrible DC here. So what do we do about that? That's not acceptable because we're going to be able to run this down to the lower limit. So otherwise, you can only do things above 6 or 7 volts. So that's not good. So I'm going to set just playing around with it. I figured that we can clear up most of it and get rid of that issue just by sticking the little capacitor across. I don't really like the idea of this because now, in some respects, we've got to look at the setup of that voltage regulator. Just because if you put a capacitor across, that means there's charge stored in there. If we get a short circuit here, it means that charge could go back into the voltage regulator and kill the voltage regulator. Normally, you stick this thing on a little diode on in order to give a path back to the input so it can just go round and round and just kill this up far from any charge that needs to be discharged by a short circuit. But if I just put this on here and you're going to have to do it polarity-wise, of course. So if I put this on here like this, you can see that even though, just using this, it's only 220 microfarads. Oh, there we go, that clamped there. A bit of a pickle. It seemed easier last night, then I wasn't trying to do it on the camera last night. Just turn that around so I can hook these both in together. So if I clamp that like that, OK, so we've got that on there, and I put that back down again, you can see that this, even though it's not a lovely DC line, it's a lot cleaner than what it was. And here at 8 volts, I just bend them up a bit so you can see that. Let's start turning this down. That's gone wrong way. Let's start turning it down. You can see that we can go all the way down. And we don't get that issue. But straight out the box, that is something that if you did buy one of these, you're going to have to resolve. I might end up swapping this out, but see if I can put a tantalum in there, just because it's not going to hold that amount of juice in there. Or it's going to be a case of sticking the diode on, like I say, and I'll get my head around that over the next few days. I've ordered another one of these boards, because I'm going to do a contrast and compare, do a contrast and compare with one of these boards. Because they seem very similar. When I look at the other side, I'm not going to do it now because it's all connected. I can see, not the difference here, I want to be able to go over them without any population on the board. And also then I can try to find a genuine highland so I can contrast and compare this board with that as well and see why this hasn't got the filtering on the output. It could be the regulator. I will take the regulator out and I'll try a different regulator. 15 minutes, no. Minus the jump cuts, so it'll be less than that. And I'll try a different regulator and I'll let yous know. Again, for connecting it, it's all the same way as I said earlier. If you want to know how to connect to meter up because you're going to want to connect to meter up with one of these boards, you get it working because you're going to want to see what your voltage is and what your current drawer is. And then we can start talking about transformers. And we're going to do another one on this. I'll talk to you about the transformer, how it affects the board and the differences between this transformer and one that I think will work much better with this board. If you got this far, thanks for watching. I hope that was helpful for any of you that may be interested in buying this and you get it in your phone that you can't wire up. There you go. There's the pattern to wire one of these up. And also, if you get that issue, you know you can drop a little capacitor across there and it will sort it out, but it's not the end of the issue because it could cause a problem in itself. All right. Catch you in the next one, guys.