 So, I've been wanting to do a geodeside table for ever. Like, since I first saw Miss Colourberry do it, I've wanted to do it. Then Petra's doing some amazing ones, and a few other artists. And I feel like it's time that I do one, so that's what's about to happen. Okay, so I have this Masonite board that is on its face because I don't want to make this side sticky. In case I decide to reuse it, so I'm going to do it on this side. I got this Tyvek type tape. This one's from DuPont. It's a flashing systems tape. I got it off Amazon. And it feels like a heavy plastic tape, which makes sense about why resin won't stick to it. I'm going to cut off every part that has stickiness on it, because I don't know what that texture will do to my resin. And the backside of this tape looks like straight up tar. So I think this is like a roofers or like a construction people tape, so sturdy, I'm sure. So I think my geode is going to be basically from here up. It's not going to be like huge table, it's side table size. So I'm going to measure this out, double check, measure twice, cut once. I'm pretty sure I heard someone say that before. And then it's going to take two, three, four, about five more of these. So I'm just going to take this and cut it like this and save myself some time and stress cutting strips of tape. Because genius. Also eats science. I have forgotten how many of these I need, so we're going to play that by ear at this point. I think I said six more. I can't remember. We were on a live feed. I would ask you guys what number I said, but alas, we are not. Usually I would have my lovely assistant, Jeffrey White. How do we get? Existing. I can't remember how much this tape was, but it wasn't like shockingly much, but it wasn't exactly cheap. So I'm really hoping that it does the trick. You guys, the next best thing to get for this project is Jeffrey White. What is it, Jeffrey White? It's Vanna White, but Jeffrey. Where? So for this, we're doing a slight overlap because we really don't want the seams, but there's not a lot you do about it. You can just use a tarp, but I want to see how well this Tyvek tape works. Now we have our base. So now we have to get cocking. Get to cocking. Get your cock on. I need to shake it first. What should I use? Y'all, we use chop pins of various colors to get our lines right. Jeff taught me that a long time ago. Use a different color for every new idea you have so that you can keep track of which ones you're following, which ones you like, and which ones you need to rework. I have to roll with this. Decision made. Roll with the punches. Now we get the cocking. G-E, 100% silicone, waterproof, clear, mold-free, 30-minute setup. The slower you go, the more that's going to come out, so it makes it a little bit wider base so you can... So what's up, you guys? I hope you're enjoying the video so far. I do need to let you guys know that I did film the whole thing, but being that it's been like a year or 11 in the making for this video, I have lost a couple of the parts. But I do have sections that explain what I did, but just on a different geode. So I'm going to splice that in here. So for the most part, the whole video is the original geode. Just this next part is where I have no idea where the video is. I think I have switched phones between then and now, and it has just disappeared into phone space or something. I don't know. So without further ado, here's the splice in of a different geode, but same process. What's up, y'all? So it's been drying now for 30 minutes. And as you can see, it's like squishy, but it's not like coming off on my hands. So it is time for the next round. And I'm basically just going to build up from here. And let me pull you guys down for a second. This right here is going to give you a rough texture on the side of your piece. But if you push it while you are working your way around, it's going to give you a smoother look. So that's kind of more what you need to look for. Just to kind of reduce the amount of work you're going to have to put in in, I guess, post-production. Like after your resin freeform is set up. So I'm going to go around just like I did last time, right on top of my first layer. You want to take your time and make sure that you don't have any air pockets or pinholes during this process. Because let me tell you, trying to mend a leaky freeform, the least fun thing I've ever done in my whole life. Super stressful, pretty wasteful because you've got resin just rolling out into nowhere. And then that resin is probably going to have a little bit of pigment in it. So just trust me, if you take your time in the prep process, you will save yourself a bunch of headache. I usually just like fold it up like a tube of toothpaste to make sure I get as much of it out as I can as easy as possible. You can probably even get one of those like toothpaste roller things that like make sure that you get every last drop out. I don't happen to have one of those or I would use it. Doing this process takes a fair amount of silicone. But I've found that taking your time and making a good structure like this allows you to reuse a little bit. So that's awesome. I am out of this one. Lucky me, I have two handy. I'm just going to snip the tip just like I did the first one about halfway down. Now I'm going to take one of my handy dandy ATD stir sticks and kind of like run this along the inside to kind of flatten out and hopefully prevent any pin holes from forming or maybe possibly close in any pin holes that I accidentally may have allowed. And the same on the inside. You could probably also use a popsicle stick. I just, I hate just using a popsicle stick like one time and it being thrown away after that. So our stir sticks are reusable. You just wipe them off and whenever you're ready to pour again, you can just use them. Giving a little help out to the environment righty. I'm just going to look around to make sure I don't see anything that might maybe be a pin hole. You should be able to see light through it if you have a weak spot. Alright, I'm going to let this set up for another 30 minutes and then we'll do our last layer. Sup y'all, now that we have our form done and it has dried, I'm looking around all the edges to make sure there are no like little pin holes. And I can see, I can show you guys, right in here. I don't think you're going to be able to see that, but just now, oh, maybe you could just a second there. In there is a pin hole and that will create a massive problem in this piece. So what I'm going to do is just do a little patch on that area with the silicone that I have left over. You can see them right in there. I'm putting this on the outside so that my inside walls are still relatively smooth or at least uniform. You can also just squeeze some just in that area and then smooth it out to make sure it's filled it. I'm going to go all the way around this thing to make sure that I'm telling you you are saving yourself a whole bunch of stress. And headache by spending a little bit extra time here instead of scrambling to patch it after you have resin in it. I've made that mistake. Sometimes if you do a little bit longer of a prep, your actual piece turns out better because you don't have any incidentals. Turns out I have quite a few little gappies in here, so I'm just doing what I've got to do to fill those. And if you take good care of this mold, you'll be able to reuse it at least a couple of times. Perfect. Since it's a 30 minute setting silicone, I can go ahead and start mixing my resin and by the time it's set up, this should be good to go. I am going to change my gloves because I don't want to get silicone mixed into my resin. The reason why this works is because silicone kind of repels resin. We're going to check your inside. So the reason why this works is because silicone repels resin. So if you get that mixed into your resin, you're going to give yourself issues. You'll end up with some fish eyes, and that's never a good time. I'm just hitting these little areas with a heat gun to kind of like spur the setting process. I don't know if this does anything, but it makes me feel like I'm helping it to set up faster, so I'm going to do it. So I'll probably end up doing two coats of resin in this piece. Two coats. Two layers because you really don't want to pour anything other than casting resin thick. So I'm going to use craft coat for my first layer. Or you could use quick coated for comfortable or whatever resin you use. I'm going to use craft coat for my first layer. This is by Stone Coat Countertops. You can get this at StoneCoatCountertops.com. And then my second layer, I'm going to use art coat by Stone Coat because that will seal in and protect from any UV that might discolor my artwork. So this is a two-part resin. That means you use equal parts A and B. For my first layer, I'm going to go ahead and premix up 10 ounces. So that means pouring 5 ounces of A and 5 ounces of B. It's really important to get your measurements perfect because if you have too much of resin or too much of hardener, then either your resin will never set or it'll set too quickly. Both of which are horrible options. Go over colors. And for this piece, I'm going to stick to like gray, black, gold, white, that kind of color palette. So I know that I'm going to be using at least four colors. So you want to pour out however much you want of each color represented. Black, gray, white, and gold. And then I have some clear leftover for keeping that see-through kind of look. So the first color I'm going to use is called Whale by Distinctive Concrete Concepts. It's kind of like graphite. I like to use at least one powder because it looks different than pastes. And though in my general artwork, I like to stick to paste over powder. In general, you will hear that you need to stick to about 10% color to resin ratio. I don't know really that much about percentages to be quite frank with you. I usually do about two scoops for powders though for these little three ounce Dixie cups. Because I'm all about those layman's terms, you know? If you pour your resin in and then add your powder and then pour resin on top of it, it will save you from having to do what I was just doing. So now we have a really nice graphite gray check. Next, I'm going to use some 007 gold. This is by Color Obsession. I do have this in my shop, artist-to-death.com. I like to use this in particular because it's got metal flakes in it. I don't know if it's going to focus or not because life. But it has little metal flakes in it that will float to the surface and give a really interesting look. This is actual metal flakes, so make sure not to breathe this. Well, you don't want to breathe Micas either, but particularly not the metal. So if you're sensitive to anything or aren't in a well-ventilated room, make sure to wear a respirator. This stuff looks like molten gold. My favorite gold paste right now is Just Resin's bright gold paste. It's completely brilliant as well. So next, I'm going to use Stonecoats black base tint. I'm using this different than I normally would because I want it to give those little fading striations. Typically, I tell people to use as minimal as possible of this stuff. And I'm going to just slightly over tint this resin. So that it does its little... So you can see it already starting to like grow and attack the sides. And I just poured it in here right here. You can really see it. So if you add too much of this, you won't have cells that'll stay. It'll end up looking faded and cloudy. And I'm kind of okay with that with this piece though. So I added just a little bit more than I would if I wanted to get and keep cells. So it's fine. Really nice black color. And some whites. I'm going to use Snow White from Color Obsession. I will have this back in stock on the 6th of this month. Which is awesome because as you can see, I'm almost out of my own stock as well. These little spatula deals are super for getting the last bit of resin or pigment out of your jars. Because they'll get up under those lids. Where's mine? This. I think I want to carry these little spatulas in the shop. Make sure all your colors are really well integrated into each other. I mean into the resin. You know what I mean. Right. Now you have to come up with how you want your color layout to be. I think I want gold in the center and gray. No. Gold. Yeah, maybe gold, gray, black, white, gray, gold. I don't know. Let's just pour it out and see how it goes. Wait. I want to put some clear down. Because I want to have that see-through look. This might end up just diluting my colors, my resin. But it's a risk I'm willing to take, you know? This may be a three level pour. Just looking at how deep my edges are. Let's turn this back around. The other day and right now when I did that first layer, I added 32 ounces of clear to give a depth to it. Now I'm going to add my first like artistic layer. When you're done with that, will you give me some measuring cup? I might have to go over here. Let me just try to plan out what I'm doing here. I have some glitter. Will you hand me the super glitter? I have my glitter. I've got some silver leaves. I've got my art coat. I'm going to use quick coat for the top layers. I use the art coat for the base layers because I just wanted to make it more full. Because if you think about it, you really never see your first couple of layers. It's only the last couple that you see. So I just cut to the chase. Put a filler in there. I also have some of my mica chunks. A lot of these are from Stone Coat. I'm going to use probably this black metal from Stone Coat. This black glitter from Stone Coat. And they're black obsidian flakes. Most likely from just resin. I have a black ink. You can use new and old smack that thumbs up button. So the way I do my design and artistic layers is that I do one color at a time. Because I use quick coat. Thanks Angie. Thank you very much. This allows us to... Sorry, go ahead. This is our first time catching us live. Oh, welcome. So I only do one color at a time when I do the quick coat design layers. Because I want them to keep more of their... How did I put that? Can you guys hear her okay? Let's change it. Let's change that. I want to keep the line integrity. I'm going to assume... Probably a horrible idea. They can hear you. That one ring on the outside is eight ounces. I don't know for sure. We're going to find out together right now right here right now. How can they hear you and not me? I'm standing right in front of the microphone. I'm standing on the other side on the floor. Because I can project. You tend to mumble. So as soon as your part A and part B touch each other, it's a game on and you need to keep in mind what kind of time constraints you're working with. Okay, they can't hear me. I get it. I'm just going to let her talk. Cool. Are you going to read? Well, you have 15-20 minutes working time once your part A and part B touch each other. It makes your part A and part B till they're really well incorporated with each other. It'll run clear. And you won't see the two parts swirling together. This is going to take you about two minutes out of your working time. Well, I'm so glad we never sold those. Yeah, will you hand me a big one? A big one. There's one right next to you. I'm going to need it for the other colors. Also, I forgot my alcohol red. I've got my resin mixed together. I can add the colors. And for the outside, I think I'm going to add a darker layer. Yeah, what would she do with that? I know, I know. So I'm going to use this aluminum. Yeah. When you use a paste, make sure you mix it up really well because even if you just used it yesterday, it could have separated on you. Rule of thumb is 10% paint to resin ratio. Darcy said finally late to TV, even cooler. Awesome. Get my kids to watch also. Hi, Marcy's kids. What's up, Marcy's kids? I love this aluminum. Thanks for joining. Question is, what would Jeff do without Erica? That is also a very good question. Always somebody in the house. I have friends everywhere, Pete. Everywhere. They're watching. Such a beautiful color, y'all. I think I'm going to add just a drop of black ink into this to make it a little bit darker. Can I see this? Yeah. This is an early... Unless you add super much heat to the point of scorching it, you're not going to smell it. Here's the thing. I accidentally dropped some of these little lip bits. Lip bits? I kind of like that random floating lip bit. Lip bit. You know? Should I like that or should I don't? Should I do, should I don't? Should I do, should I don't? That camera is right by your head. I feel like I need to add some dark on the outside of this, but I don't want to mess up what's here. So, like, what do I do? It's all in this area. I'm just going to kind of see where I'm going to get to the outlines. But they were white. And now they're, like, disappeared. Now the question is to add silver leaf, or to not add silver leaf. I'm going to add a black line and a white line on the top to break up some of this glitter. But I'm trying to decide leafing.