 Hi everybody, I'm excited to do a comb over today with you guys. I'll be doing a comb over with a little bit of texture and a design on this side of his head. So it's gonna be a really interesting showcase today. Before I start like any kind of process, I always examine the hair, just like growth patterns in here to kind of see how I'll work with the hair cause it kind of gives you a good way, like a good estimate of how the hair would react prior to even doing any work on it. And I would say that comes more so with like experience. The more you kind of experience different growth patterns, different textures of hair, you'll kind of start to look at hair and see things before even begin working on it. I'm just making sure everything is completely saturated before I do anything. First thing I'm gonna do is just section out the hair starting from the crown. So to me, this is like one of the most important parts of the haircut because it allows me to cut everything properly. I mean like having to worry about if I just, you know, cut something too short or too long. And this is also a little bit easier to part out because he already has a parting. So I can kind of follow that through. I don't have to worry about it being too accurate. What is in your spray bottle? Conditioner or tonic either or whichever one I kind of find just so it's easier for me to comb through the hair. Small little tip that goes a long way, I have to say. And also I gotta say when you're parting hair, making sure the parting is clean and nice, it takes a little bit longer but saves you a lot of time within the haircut in general because there's like less mistakes within the haircut because you took your time to part it out correctly. Now that I've cut the perimeter of the head, I'm gonna be working with the top and it's gonna be a really textured cut. And what I'm gonna do is get rid of the color in his head and add texture. So what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna point cut the color away basically. And as I'm working, I'm working horizontally just because with comb-overs, I feel like this is the most efficient way for me to do them. I always work from the perimeter and then follow with the top. I'm almost done cutting the top and one thing I would say for most comb-overs, as I get to the last section towards the fringe, I like to over-direct this here a little bit further back to give it a little bit more length in the front and more fullness. This video is sponsored by the new FSC hair cutting system available at shopfse.com. This system was designed for individual stylists, salons, and schools. Included in the FSC hair cutting system, you get a digital hair cutting book, printable head sheets for each haircut, eight step-by-step videos, terminology 101 video, and also a completion certificate that you can hang in your salon or school. To download your copy of the FSC hair cutting system, go to shopfse.com. Can't wait for you guys to see it. Thank you so much for the support. Now that that is cut, everything is looking good. I'm just gonna add some texture. I'm gonna do some channel cutting or slide cutting. I would say be very careful with that technique because depending on your scissors, it might pull or just irritate your client because it does hurt sometimes. And now I'm gonna try razor to add a little bit more texture. I've been using the 25% for the majority of clients unless their hair is extremely thick, but for the majority of the time, I'm using 25. I also left the bangs a little bit longer so I could see how it looks. So from here, I'll direct the hair this way. My guide is right here. I could just point cut this off to cut that corner. So now I'm just gonna add some product to this hair. And I personally prefer to put product in when it's wet so it just sits in the hair better and really gets to the roots and across the whole shaft of the hair. So now I'll be blow-drying the hair roughly just to get it dry. And also as I'm blow-drying his hair, I'm also looking at the style roughly and seeing how his hair is reacting to the product, to the way I cut it. This is how it helps me style his hair in a more unique way that fits just him. So now I'm gonna begin to start fading. And I did say I was gonna do a design on this side. So I'm gonna show you my thought process behind designs. Well, the first thing I'm gonna do is just take everything down to the same level, which is, so one and a half guard opened, which is basically a number two guard closed. And all I'm really doing right now is prepping the hair for a fade, but instead on this side, I'll be prepping it for a design. And I like to have it completely, even before I start the design, just so I have a better idea of how it would look in its final stages. Now that that's cut, I'm just gonna blend it in a little bit better. It's not gonna be like a crazy amount, but this little bit of extra effort, just adds towards the end to make it look that much better. Now that the sides is basically prepped in my opinion, I'm gonna kind of give you a visual guide of my design that I wanted to do. So I know I'm gonna have something coming from this side. And then I wanna do a very interesting fade on this side that is dynamic. So I'm gonna have one fade going this way and one fade going that way. And as of now, that's all I know in my head. And as I work through this side of the head to this side of the head, I'll be figuring out what looks the best. Very important. It's really important to have really good tremors as you're doing designs. Because with tremors, it's the most important part because you need it to create clean and good lines. If you don't have good tremors, it makes it 10 times harder to do a design. So we're gonna start right here in the corner and it's gonna make a line, a little curved line. I feel like it gives you the most amount of creativity when it's curved. And then from here, I'm just following the shape of the head. And there's some inconsistencies within this, but I'm not stressing myself about fixing that because I know I'm gonna fix that later on. As you see it, as I'm working right here, I'm making sure I have a better angle with my tremor in order to really work at this line. And right here, split this part of the design so I'm able to create a dynamic looking fade. So what I'm gonna do is taking that curve out this way and also out this way. And in order to get that look that I was telling you guys about, what I'm gonna do is split this right here in the middle. Right here, I know I want the design to end. So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna exaggerate this curve down this way. And then from here, I want this design to flow out nicely from here. So what I'm thinking, I'm gonna go this way and then just bring it down just in order for me to properly execute a way out. And then with this line right here separating it, I'll just follow that through. And from here, I'm not really gonna work in this area until I've completed this side. So I'm gonna fade this area out right here and then kind of go from here to see which is the best way to fade this to make it look dynamic. In the same way, I prepped the top part of my fade. What I'm doing now is prepping the bottom part of my fade. So from when I'm done prepping, it's like I just know I have to blend from the bottom to the top and my fade will look exactly how I want it to. I have a lot of experience with these specific clippers and trimmers I've been using them for a while. So I understand how they cut hair. And I think that's the most important thing when it comes to your tools, you want reliable tools that you understand and you know could give you a consistent result every single time. And even my clipper, it's not zero gaps. I think not having my tremors and clippers zero gaps has made it easier for me to fade because I don't create any like super hard lines for me to work out. Everything is a little bit smoother and easier to get out because it's not as close as it has more wiggle room. When as the hair gets longer, you guys don't notice it, but initially I would be fading the hair up. Once the hair gets a little darker, I start fading down. And all that means instead of working with my lever closed to open in order to blend, I would start with it open and slowly close it in order to blend. And to me, I feel like that's a easier way of fading because you could kind of see what the hair is doing and like slowly lower it until you get the result you want with the hair. While I like fading, like I said, I prep the top and I prep the bottom. So that way I know, what's at the very bottom and I also know what the very top looks like. And I mean, like it's easier for me to create that blend that way. And from here, I'm gonna begin to fade this area of his head. And I know bringing this line all the way through is really gonna give it that separation. So what I'm gonna do is bring this line all the way across from here to here and blend it this way. And then from here, since the fade is being blended from this way is gonna give it a nice contrast here. And I could do the opposite direction from this way. So I'll be blending that way and blending that way to give it a really interesting look. So if you guys like somewhat followed along in what I did on my fading process for this side of the head, I'll be doing the same thing right here. So I'm doing the same thing, you know, prepping the bottom, as I would say. And even as I'm fading, you guys could tell like, I wanna say I'm rushing in the fade, but you know, I'm not taking my time really fading it. You know, I'm making sure it's done properly and correctly, but I'm not as meticulous as I was when I'm prepping because I know I'm gonna go back and you know, double check all of this work. And I feel like that's where I would wanna spend most of my time when it comes to the fade is just detailing it. It's like, you know, if you take a test, do all the easy stuff first and then you could always go back and do the harder stuff that take more time. So from here, not completely done, but I'm starting, you know, you're starting to see how it's coming out. And from here, I'm gonna start my blend from right here and bring it this way. And then also create another blend within here. So here, when I start the fade, what I'm gonna do, I'm gonna try to keep this dark within the outer perimeter of this design. So I'm gonna start with a very small little dot, like right in here and just, I start with a small dot and as I'm like making it bigger, I'm also fading the hair, but it's like kind of hard for you guys to see because the hair is so short, but I'm starting to begin to really blend it. I'm starting out with like this and I'm gonna expand this fade. I could have started from right here and really have it, you know, boom drastically, you know, overlapping like how this is, but I'm choosing to keep this corner because I want it within the end of the haircut. I would say when you're doing this, you have to be very careful in a way because you're fading in such a small area, but you know, like I've done designs before, so I'm a little bit more comfortable in what I'm doing and all I'm doing is really fading it this out. And because it's such a small area, I'm gonna fade top down, which means I'll be slowly closing the lever like this instead of opening it. Usually when I started my fades, I would start closed and slowly open it, but this time I'm slowly closing it because it's such a tight area that I wanna be more careful with what I'm doing. As you guys can see, I spread it out a little bit more in this area because I wanted to collide with my other fade. So instead of making it even fade and going this way, I have this area a little bit darker because that's a point and I know it's gonna be a point and this side has more room spread. And also I guess a really good tip when it comes to fading, when you think about it, whatever guidelines you set up, that creates the shape of your fade while the levels at which you spread it create how fast that transition occurs. So as you notice in this, my first guideline was this. So it created that shape within the fade and this one is more uniform following his neck and it created that shape and this one is more circular. So it's very important to keep that in mind when you're fading that, depending on how you set up your lines it's gonna give you a completely different effect. Now that all of this is pretty much done, this area I'll worry about as I'm fading this side through here, but the last thing I have left to do before I create my shape up is blending this area. So in this area is what I'll do on a typical comb over. I could kind of show you what I would do. I'll create my guideline, contouring the shape of the head. When it comes to fades, the best way to really make them pop is going from a really good transition of light to dark because if you think about it that's all the fade is you're just going from really short light here to longer here that's darker. So the way to exaggerate that the most is getting it light as possible to as dark as possible with your fades. Yeah, I guess I could show you guys a different technique. What I'm going to do, I'm going to fade only using the blade, nothing else. So when you're doing this, you really just want to spread your fade and flick. And the harder you flick, the better it's really going to blend it within the darker areas. And as you could see, like I'm not anywhere close to done, but you could kind of see the fade is like coming out. And also I know I could also detail this when I go towards the end of the haircut. So I'm not too stressed about it. If it doesn't come out, you know, perfect. I could always go back with my guards and correct whatever needs to be corrected. And I would also say fading like this really helps you understand your tool a lot better because you could really see what, you know, it could do on its own without guards. You'll have a better understanding of how your tool works. And from there, it's not completely done. But from here, I'm going to really detail the rest with my guards. So in this process, since I already did the bottom half of the fade with no guards really, I'm going to do the rest fading down. And like I said before, I like fading down when I want more control in what I'm doing. Cause that way I could see the fade come together compared to if I was fading up. It's like I have less control cause I have no idea how that hair would be reacting until I cut it. And now I'm just going to be finishing off the fade with my half guard. To me, this is my favorite guard when it comes to fading because I feel like you have so much room in your fade to use this guard and kind of spread your fade in a little bit. And you're able to get so many dark spots with this guard also because of how thin the actual guard is. And so there you guys go a little rough look before I add my lines. I'm just going to comb out the hair before I do anything. And as you can see, I'm not really taking off much. Just kind of following a natural line that's already there. Less is more, you don't really need to cut off a lot to really get something bold. All you need to do is make it even. That's all. Now I would say this corner piece right here is the most important because if you get this nice and square making this nice and square and define defines everything else. All I'm really doing like once I have the line I'm just getting rid of little hairs that are like sticking out. And as I'm working with the curve, you see I'm only using the corner of my tremors more precise with this line. I'm not trying to get it overly sharp or anything like that. So I know I'm going to come back with the razor and really define it. So I just want a nice shape to it that I could define afterwards. Before I began to work on my lines I wanted to find it one more time with my tremors. So I might make a little like certain parts of my design a little bit wider, a little bit skinnier. Right here is just my insulation. I'm just adding a little bit of extra detail to my lines. And with designs, I would say don't be too afraid to make your lines a little bit thicker because you do want them to be noticeable. As you can see I'm really exaggerating this line compared to how I initially started. So you could see the difference in my lines as I like define them. Even though I made them bigger they don't look like too big they just look more defined and noticeable which is what you want for design. And right here I just extended the line a little bit just because I felt like it would look you know a little bit better if it ended a little bit further down right there. So from here I'm basically done with the design. I'm just gonna detail it with the razor now. Whenever I'm shaving or I know I need more detail what I would do is keep the razor in depending on what kind of razor holder you have but keep it very minimally exposed so that you're able to really get into corners better without really pulling the skin. As you could see as I'm like detailing my line I'm really stretching the skin in order to really get a nice glide on the razor but at the same time I'm not trying to stretch the skin too much where it alters my line on my designs. And as I work I always try to find the most comfortable angle to use the razor with designs sadly you know you're gonna have to get a little uncomfortable. This isn't it too bad but with designs you're gonna have to sacrifice a little bit of comfort in order to get the lines the way you want to with the razor. Also I would not recommend dry shaving on a client if you're not comfortable with it because it is a lot easier to nick someone dry shaving. Me personally I don't like using shaving gel too much because I feel like it just makes the hair too gunky. But as I'll be working with the lines it'd just be too much extra shaving gel and it wouldn't be dry enough for me to really see where my line is at. So I do prefer it to dry shave but I wouldn't recommend it unless you're more experienced. And also as I'm doing the design you could tell I'm not only detailing the bottom line with the razor but also the top line. I would say the most important thing with designs is making sure your lines are really clean because that way it looks intentional and it doesn't look like you know yo was that meant to be there? And now from hair to me the haircut is like quote unquote done but I always like to just take extra care and detail the haircut to make it look exactly like how I wanted it to look instead of like just a good haircut. Now what I like to do to really detail my fades is start with the one and a half guard and slowly work my way back down and just detail any inconsistencies that I see and just chip away at any imperfections. Every haircut is gonna have imperfections in it because no one's head is completely flat so you're gonna find inconsistencies within the head and all I'm doing is just trying to correct for those inconsistencies. So it was pretty much done. The only thing I think I'm gonna change is like this. I feel like it's a little too long down here. So there's still like a little bit of hair right here. I'm just gonna define that. Just to make it look more intentional. And you can see how that small little difference really added to the haircut. Sometimes I like to actually use the guard as a nice styling comb because I feel like it just gives it a different look to the hair when you style it with the actual guard instead of like a styling comb. Thank you guys for checking us out on FSC. It's been a great time with you guys and I hope you guys enjoyed all the content I gave you today. My Instagram is hennycuts and I'm always posting more content and just more cool looking haircuts and also videos too if you guys wanna check it out. I'm always posting on my stories just little things I do throughout the day if you guys wanna look at that too. See you guys, peace. There's a few things that you have to understand about haircutting before you can really jump into doing haircuts. These are all things that I'm gonna teach you guys in the next eight haircuts. Truly understanding the why behind what you're doing in haircutting can make haircutting so much more fun and make you way more successful behind the chair.