 Wow, what a turnout. Thank you. Okay. I am Pilgrim. I'm one of the founders of War Driving World, and we like to play with Wi-Fi. So I'm here today to talk to you about what it means to be a Wi-Fi ninja. The power of being a Wi-Fi ninja is an ancient tradition, and very ancient. It's passed on from generation to generation. The idea is to unleash the full potential of Wi-Fi communications in your home, in your office, and most importantly now in your community. So, the Wi-Fi ninja code. First, determine the needs and objectives of what you're trying... Basically you're walking in as a ninja into a situation. How do you solve the problem? Determine the needs and objectives. What are they trying to do? Are they trying to get Wi-Fi from one end of a house to another? Are they trying to bridge across the street? Are they trying to distribute it within a community? Next, never believe, never trust what the manufacturer says. You can always do a lot more with it, but you'll also probably get a little more noise than they expect, but there's a lot to be said for working it on your own. Next, decide what changes you're going to make to the existing setups, and you have to work within the limitations. That's important because sometimes you're working in Wi-Fi and you've got a free Wi-Fi hotspot, you're one mile down the road, but you don't have any control over the free Wi-Fi hotspot. All you have is control over your own client Wi-Fi side. Then the whole purpose being to spread Wi-Fi to be able to go longer distances with it and at greater speeds. When I say longer distances, yes, I know at a previous DEF CON they went out into the desert and they got about 120 miles out of Wi-Fi. We don't necessarily do that, but certainly we do several miles quite commonly. I'm going to talk to you a little bit about some of the technology that you can use to do that. The first is if you're a ninja is to say again, what is the situation? You need to find out can I control both at the router side and at the client side or the AP, or do I only have control over one of those entities? Once we know what we're trying to achieve, we can go off and say, what are we working with? Oh, no. Somehow we're not on the right slide. Oh, no. Thank you. Wi-Fi. Wi-Fi are microwaves, and that's the important thing to remember because they behave like microwaves. Most Wi-Fi is at this point either 2.4 or 5.8 gigahertz. It's ideal for short range, point to point, and we can get a fair amount of bandwidth out of it. Unfortunately, it needs line of sight, or mostly line of sight, and that's important. That's what we're going to talk about a lot today. It prefers dry arid climates. We can get miles out of a small setup with a very little antenna in the Arizona or the Nevada desert. You take that into San Francisco and you'll barely get 50 feet out of the same setup. Moisture is a big issue for it. It doesn't like rain or snow. The other issue is that the spectrum is crowded. Frequently we have customers come to us and say, I bought a new antenna and it doesn't improve performance at all. Frequently it's interference that is a bigger issue. They have 2.4 gigahertz phones. They have 5.8 gigahertz phones. They have spy cameras that run at that, and numerous types of remotes. Not to mention other people who have routers that might or might not be performing at the right frequencies. Or crowding them out. That's a big problem. We need to try to work around that. The first thing you need to do is to say, how much power do we need? Power in Wi-Fi is measured in what we call DBM. DBM basically starts at 1 milliwatt. So 0 DBM is 1 milliwatt, and 30 DBMs is 1 watt full. That's the range within which you're working. Typically a Wi-Fi adapter, internal, runs somewhere between 30, 40, sometimes 50 milliwatts. The PCMCIA cards will go higher than that. Some of them will even go up to 300 milliwatts. I wouldn't put that in my laptop because I think it tends to draw too much heat, but some people do. And you can use USB Wi-Fi. They can go up to almost a half a watt. And that, pretty much, the question is... No, we're going too fast. Back up. Okay, stay there. Okay, now. So the question is, the first question is, if you could get the power out of it, why wouldn't you always use as much power as you can? One issue is that most of these Wi-Fi devices will back down to a lower power level if it's not needed. If you're running at a full 200 milliwatts off of a PCMCIA card, you're going to draw down your batteries pretty quickly. Certainly my gateway goes very quickly. Also, the more power that we're pushing out, the more noise we're going to have. So we may be pushing a lot of power out of there and getting some range, but we're getting noise, which means our throughput is dropping. The third issue is, if you're pushing out a lot of power, you're pushing out a signal that a lot of people can see. If you want to broadcast your signal to your entire neighborhood, one good way to do it is to boost your power. So you want to try to stay within the framework of the building or the community that you're trying to work within so that you don't, in a sense, waste the power. The fourth issue has to do with FCC regulations. This has to do with Part 15. Basically, unless you have a special license, and these are the types of things that people who are ham radio enthusiasts and others have, you're limited to doing effectively about one watt of transmission. It works out to about four watts of affected radiated power. And you say to yourself, well, I've only got a half watt maximum on the Wi-Fi without putting an amplifier on it. How am I going to get up there? Very quickly. You put an antenna on top of these things and you get that additional gain and you run right up against the limit. So you need to be conscious of these things. Some of us aren't so conscious of what we're doing with regard to the FCC, but if you're running up at four watts, you can start to interfere with other people. So just watch what you're doing. So the question is, how do you get there? Oh, well, this is a cartoon about what happens if you've got a lot of power coming out. I don't know if you can read it, but everybody can find a hotspot. Go ahead. So how are we going to get there? And that's the question. So one of the first things we need to know about are cables. Now I'm going to dwell on this not as much on antenna construction, which I'll get to at the end, as as much how you use these antennas to start with. And I did this because we've been selling, we sell a few hundred of the large antennas a month and we sell a lot more smaller antennas a month, the war-driving world and our other websites. And one of the most common problems we have is that people don't use the equipment properly. They'll get an antenna and they'll put a 40-foot cable on it, which has very high loss, and then they'll wonder why it didn't work. Or they'll pull off a cable off of their old satellite TV, which is the wrong impedance, and hook it up and tell us that it's a piece of crap, it doesn't work. So I'm going to dwell on that a little bit because I want to cover all the basics because getting a good card or a good router is not enough. It's getting each one of the pieces of equipment, matching them properly and using them properly. So first is the longer the cable, the greater the signal loss. So try to go as short runs as you can. Think out very carefully. The other is the antenna should be as straight as possible. I've seen people close it in the window and it goes like this. And then they wonder why the signal gets bad. You've got a shield around that cable, it gets compressed, it touches, that's it. So you should lay it as straight as possible. The other thing is Wi-Fi is 50-ohm impedance cable. That's very important. The variety of cables that people try to use on this is quite large. Use good cables. The other thing is some people want to crimp them at home. It's okay to crimp them at home but do a good job. So many times we have people who crimp the cables, they don't do it properly, they end up touching the contacts, and it doesn't work properly. So if you're not good at crimping cables, if you're not comfortable crimping cables, then you can get a professionally made one. They're not that expensive, but that's a big issue to have that crimp on the end that's secure. Okay. The next is there are many types of Wi-Fi cable. Okay. So again this becomes one, and the manufacturers have the problem just as well. Next slide. Okay. All right. So many different types of cable. LMR 100 is a very common cable. It's a very thin cable. It's the thinnest, it's the one on the left at the top. Okay. And there are other variations of it. I just chose three to talk about. Why do we use LMR 100? The little connectors that go into the end of Wi-Fi cards, the MMCXs, the MCs, the RPMMCXs, they will not accommodate a cable that is larger than that. So you have to start off at an LMR 100. I've had manufacturers from Taiwan ship us antennas with 10 or 12 feet of LMR 100 on it. And the antennas only about a 4 dB gain. Well, they've now lost 7 dB across the length of the cable, and they gained 4 dB. So again, don't necessarily trust the manufacturer, take a look at the cable, but be intelligent about which cables you're going to use. LMR 100 is a great little cable, and there are something called an RG 213. There are a number of variations of very similar cables, but they should only be used for very short runs. What we tend to do is to use a short run of LMR 100 and then quickly connect it to something like an RPSMA, which you can use. RG 58 is similar to LMR 200. I put RG 58 up there because it's a very common cable, and sometimes people have spools of it around. Yes, it will work. It's a little higher loss than the LMR 200, but it will work, and it's pretty effective. But again, the major advantage of this is you can now go to an RPSMA or an end connector and then go a distance. But again, no more than 20 feet or so. At the point at which you go 20 feet, you're losing 25 dB per 100 feet, and you're running right up there against the loss, which is significant. The LMR 200 is an ideal cable. Now you're running loss of about 17 dB per 100 feet. So that's nice. So you're not talking about 1.7 dB loss for 10 feet. That's something within the acceptable range. But again, you don't really want to run that more than 20 or 30 feet. The other issue is that that cable is thin. They make cables that are fit for platinum. I don't think they make an LMR 200 that's buried, but I've seen people bury it. But again, it's not as heavy duty a cable. I would use that inside. I wouldn't use it outside. And certainly, if you're running an antenna out on your roof, you're going to want some cable. Next. LMR 400 and the variations. This is a great cable. Yes, it's heavy. Yes, it's thick. Yes, it's not very flexible. It doesn't bend, but it's very low loss. Look at what we're talking about. We're talking about a 7 dB loss. So we're talking about a cable. From the first cable we looked at to this of something that's what, about a seventh of it. So that's something you can use for much longer runs. We sell a lot of marine Wi-Fi kits. And people will run this, you know, from the inside the boat up a mast of a sailboat, and they'll run it 25 or 30 meters. There's not a problem. Five minutes what? I'm sorry? I have five more minutes. Oh. Really? Oh. Okay. I had a 50 minute talk. I think you're mistaken. I have a 50 minute talk. Yeah. Okay. So. All right. Let's go on. Next slide. Use LMR 400. It's a great cable. Okay. All right. Here's my trivia question. And if somebody gets it right, I've got a 15 DBI panel antenna for you. So, does anybody know what RP-TNC stands for? I'm sorry? No. Well, you know the RP. The RP is reverse polarity. Anybody? No. Interesting. Okay. Next slide. All right. RP-TNC basically was named after the two gentlemen, one of whom actually invented the end connector. The other man invented the C connector. Together they invented something called a BNC. You're all familiar with a BNC. So the BNC then became threaded later and became known as a TNC. So they actually stand for something. But that's my trivia question. So I guess I get to keep the antenna. Okay. Next. Okay. Why are there so many different... Oh. We're going right into this. Okay. Since I don't know how much time I have, I think I'm going to flip into this. Okay. We have... No. How am I going to skip this one to this quick? Through the man. Through the man. Okay. Yeah. Okay. All right. Let's hold at this. There's nobody after me. Okay. Good. All right. So we have many different connectors and people often ask me why do we have all these different connectors? Okay. One is it has to do with FCC rules. There was a time when FCC was very concerned about approving antennas and matching up with Wi-Fi devices. What they did in this case was to require that manufacturers have unique connectors. So somebody had a TNC, Cisco came up with an RPTNC, so that each one had a unique one. That rule I think is still on the FCC books, but it's been relaxed a lot. So at this point, there's interchangeability and there are a number of common connectors. Okay. So we've got the issue of power. We've also got the issue of receive sensitivity. It doesn't do any good for you to be able to transmit a signal if you can't then when it comes back from the router or the other access point that you're going to, receive it. So receive sensitivity becomes important. Receive sensitivity is measured in DBM, but it's measured in minus DBM. So basically a typical card may be about minus 89 DBM. Okay. If you find a card that is minus 91, minus 92 DBM, that's a better card in terms of receive sensitivity. Every three DBM is one power. So if you have a card which is a minus 89 DBM and then you have a card which is a minus 92 DBM, that is one power greater. Three more DBM and you're going two power greater. So that's something when you look at a Wi-Fi device, when you look at a router an access point, a card, it's not only important to look at the power. People often call me and say, I want a 300 watt card. It's not only about the power. You have to have both sides of the equation. So receive sensitivity becomes important. There are basically two types of antennas. There's your omnidirectional antennas and then your directional antennas. And basically all of the antennas fall into those two categories. So directivity basically is the ability to take your signal and put it in only one beam, one area. And how wide that beam is is how directional it is. And I explained that it has to do with increased gain in that area. Imagine if you have a regular incandescent light bulb. That's an omnidirectional antenna. The light goes out in all directions. But if you have a 100 watt bulb, really in any one direction you're only getting a fraction of that wattage. Maybe 30 or 40 watts in any one direction. That's an omnidirectional antenna. Having a floodlight where you're going in a focus or a spotlight, you're getting the same 100 watts but you're getting it in one place and it's much brighter. That's what a directional antenna is. So if let's say, you know, some of the antennas we sell at the booth are plus nine DBI. That's again three power. They're about 15 inch tall omnidirectionals. They're great antennas. But in any one direction you're only getting about four DBI. So if you have, we have another antenna that's eight and a half DBI's but in one direction in a 30 degree beam. That's a whole different cat and that will give you a lot longer range. So when you're going to look for an antenna decide what you're trying to do. Do you want an omnidirectional or directional? Most people take their routers and their access points and they put them up against an outside wall. And when you do that you're wasting the back of that antenna. So interesting question. How do you take an omnidirectional antenna and make it directional? This is an example of two. Basically, I sometimes tell people take a sheet of tinfoil and just tape it on the wall behind your router. You'll probably reflect 30 or 40 percent of the signal forward. And that's going to make a big difference. But the best thing is to make a parabola. I'm not going to go through the formulas for it because it also depends on the antenna but you can certainly Google it for different types of omnidirectionals. But a parabola works best and just a simple one like that can make a difference as much as 50 percent additional power. So here's one where they put it on a linksys router and they put two. And they've almost doubled the amount that's coming forward. The alternative is you can go buy yourself a directional antenna. But this is a way of taking tens on existing equipment and increasing the power. Okay. So PCMCIA versus USB. We didn't used to have very good USB Wi-Fi adapters. That's changed. So PCMCIA cards are great cards. It's a nice form factor. It fits inside the laptop. You don't have to take it out to put it in a case. It's very compact. But you are going to run into a few issues. It certainly draws the battery power. There's certainly an issue of heat there. And there's also some issue in terms of compatibility. Particularly today where we have machines using express cards. We have the Macintosh. And we have a variety of operating systems which may or may not work with these cards. People are starting to use USB. The other disadvantage of the small cards is is that they require a little teeny antenna connector. Remember we're talking about that LMR100 cable. So if you use a PCMCIA card it's great but you've got this little fragile connector on the end. And as much as we try they do break off. We get a few of them back every month that we have to take back and send back to the manufacturer. So the nice thing about a USB adapter is that you can work with an RPSMA connector. That's probably the most common connector used at this point. It's a standard on D-Link. And at this point, LinkSys is going over to it too. US Robotics, Netgear, so it's an excellent connector. So you've got that advantage and you've also got advantage in terms of compatibility. But again, what your application is is really going to say a lot about which one you choose. If what you want to do is to have a Wi-Fi card that's going to give you good sensitivity and additional range and occasionally you're going to plug in an antenna into it then a PCMCIA card is a great way to go. On the other hand, if you're going to be sitting there and you're going to plug into your desk and every time you come to your desk you've got an antenna hanging out the window which is going over to a free Wi-Fi hotspot. So then you might just want to leave the USB there. You're going to get additional power and you're going to have a lot better connectivity because you've got that RPSMA connector. So again, there's no one solution which is better. It really depends on your application. But certainly now that we have USB devices which have an RPSMA built into it and there are several manufacturers Hawking, Linksys, Genius said have come out with them. That's really a good option to consider. Next. Okay, so... Oh, this is my comical one. So, what do you do? How to visit your neighbor's Wi-Fi? And that's really... So, I have basically... you have to take a look when you match up antennas at polarization. Okay, polarization is very important. Most of the rubber ducts, the typical dipole antennas are vertically polarized. Okay? And you have to match the polarization. That's important. Some people you come and you find them, they've got the two antennas of the Linksys like this. That's not going to work generally. You want them like this or, again... I missed the slide in the beginning because they rushed me, but a dipole basically, a rubber duct, a perfect antenna, it's called an isotropic, is a sphere. When you take it and you put additional gain and you put a simple dipole, you take that beach ball and you sit on it. Now it becomes almost like a donut. So by increasing the gain, you've lowered the height of the signal, but you've increased the width. And that's why when you have a dipole on the top of something like a router, you can change room to room. That is horizontal. But the more you increase the gain, the more someone's sitting on that beach ball, that donut, and squeezing it. So that's very important to think about in terms of the way an antenna operates. People go and they say, I want to go war-driving. Do you have an 18 DBI antenna I can put on top of the car? I don't have one close to it. But I say the problem you're going to run into with that is if you're war-driving in an urban area, you're not going to get above the first floor. Because the way that that signal has been squashed, you have a very narrow donut that goes long. On the other hand, you'll be able to receive something pretty far away, but you won't be able to get up to any signals that are on the second floor, or if you happen to be in a valley, you're not going to be able to get up to anything on the hill. So frequently when you're trying to get that additional vertical distance, instead of putting a high gain antenna, you'll put a low gain antenna. And that's a hard concept for some people to grasp but sometimes a lower gain antenna is a better solution. Let me go back to polarity. Polarity, you either have vertical polarity, you have horizontal polarity, and you also have circular polarity. It's very important to match the polarity. When you go and you put up a new router and you put in a laptop and you're not getting the correct signal, it's not strong enough, you need to do is to take the antenna and rotate it on its axis very slowly. You will eventually match the two in polarity. And that's important. Without matching the two, you're really going to have a much lower efficiency antenna. The other thing is, if you're using that dipole that I was talking about and you've got that squash donut, if what you're trying to achieve is not additional range, but you've got a two floor house, and that's quite a common problem, and that you want to go to the upstairs bedroom but you can't reach it, there's nothing wrong with putting the antenna so you'll end up pushing the signal up. You won't have as much range on a horizontal axis, but you'll have additional range on the vertical axis. So placement of antenna becomes a very important thing and you have to look and say, how am I using my antenna? When I take a look at putting an antenna out there, what do I consider? One, the distance required. How far am I trying to go? The position. Make sure that the two antennas are polarized in the same way. Then you have to look at the type of terrain and the foliage. Are there buildings between it? Are there walls? Are there fences? And then you have to look at the height of the antenna above ground level. The higher you put the antenna, the better performance you'll see. And then again, keep remembering about the length of the cable and the type of cable you're using. So always try different locations. Don't give up on an antenna. Frequently what you'll find is if you point it out one window, your signal is weak, you can elevate it three feet and you'll just get over that source of interference and get it. People just think that they can just put it out there. It's like a TV antenna is going to receive no. Wi-Fi is a lot more sensitive and a lot more directional. But if you can look at what you're going through and you say I'm going to go through a tree, you can go through a tree. You just have to have enough power. Once you lose about 2 dBi going through a sheet rock wall, you lose about 6 dBi trying to go through a brick wall, and you may lose a few dBi trying to go through some tree branches as long as it's not a big sequoia. So yes, we need line of sight, but you can also go through obstacles. That's when you need the additional power. So again, think about carefully what you're trying to do and you can choose the proper equipment. This is an interesting antenna. This is called the walk antenna. And I don't know if this was the first guy to do it in New Zealand, but they managed to get, I think in the end their final one was about 12 miles, and they did it from an island off the shore of New Zealand to the mainland. And what they basically were doing was a new technique, which is called a USB antenna, which is one of the advantages of USB. If you put an antenna directly on a device and you want to extend that antenna, you need to run an antenna cable. There's loss along that. If you have a USB Wi-Fi device, you can run a 15 or a 20-foot USB cable. Remember, there's no loss along the USB cable. They're not significant. The loss is along the antenna cable. So what they've done here is to run a USB cable up to the walk or what was a strainer, and then put a USB device in there. A strainer acted like a parabola. It does not have to be exact. I've done these with an old walk and you'll be amazed at the performance. And put it in there, but instead of having to run a cable with a loss, they simply run a USB extension cable. I won't dwell too much on this, but experiment. USB is really the direction these things are going for compatibility because you can use, these new adapters will run BSD, they'll run Linux, they'll run Mac, so it gives you a lot more compatibility, power, plus you're able to move that antenna 15 or 20 feet without any of these signal loss. Okay. We provide one of these. I'm not trying to sell them to say you should get them from us. You can make a cantana very easily. The commercial cantanas that are out there, I don't recommend. We used to sell them. We finally took one into a lab about six months ago, advertising that they were at about 12 DBI. We measured them and they were barely six to seven DBI, depending on which one we put in there. You can get a lot better performance by building your own. All you need is an end connector, an RPSMA connector, a TNC connector. You could probably even use a cork and a piece of copper wire. The important thing is the placement of the dipole and the length of the dipole. It's a very effective wave guide antenna. It's going directional and it's not hard to build an antenna like that that's going to get 10 or 12 DBI. Remember, 12 DBI, every three DBI is one power. Now you're going to improve the signal four times. That's a big significant difference. You're talking about something, if you've got a little adapter that's pushing out 50 watts, by the time you're done with this you're at 150 to 200 milliwatts. It's a Wi-Fi device. BiQuad. BiQuads are a little on the newer side. All microwave antennas that we're using were all designed in the 50s when microwaves were big and the Air Force was using them and some of them were even designed earlier. But a BiQuad is basically two squares. It acts as a directional antenna. It's lower on the noise than the antenna. It's a very nice project to make. It takes about an hour to make some nice things you can do with this. One, it's a great antenna. Two, we have people that are taking you've got those old DISH TV, the old PrimeStar Dishes. Put it on the end. You've got an antenna which is probably doing about 8 dB. You're pushing it into that and you're all of a sudden up there at 30 or 40 DBI. Now we're talking about way over the FCC limit. With a nice adapter you're probably up there somewhere between four to six watts. Now, mind you, with one watt you're getting a mile without any problem. So when you're up there at four to six watts even in a place like San Francisco where the air is very humid you're still getting many miles. So you can really play with the Wi-Fi and with some very simple devices and get very extended range. This was the oldest war driving I could find. This guy actually in the 20s put in a radio setup. I wanted to put a radio setup in a car and built a radio car. Because I skipped over this, I kind of went out of range, but I want to talk about two more types of antennas. One is a Yaggy antenna. A Yaggy antenna is a series of elements that focuses. It's a very nice antenna. The only problem that we see with it these days is the size. For about a 12 dB I gain you're talking about something that's somewhere on the design between about 13 to 18 inches long. And it looks like a bazooka. And we traveled with one through an airport and it didn't make it. Yaggies are great antennas. I happen to like them if you're going to mount them on a roof. They work really well for point to point. That's what they were made for in Wi-Fi. Basically, people were using them instead of having the telephone company lay a piece of cable under a street to go from building to building. They put a Yaggy on each end. And with very little power you can go two or three miles. So it's a nice antenna to consider. I think the trend these days is much more towards the panel antennas. Panel antennas have come a long way. These days some of the new ones are circularly polarized. When they're circularly polarized because of the way, without getting in too much theory, you have a lot less of a problem with moisture, and you don't have to worry about trying to match the polarity, whether it's vertical or horizontal. Panel antennas have really come down in price and there's something to consider. So those are two other types of antennas. Since I went all out of order, I'm just going to stop at this point if anybody wants to ask any questions and then I can talk for hours about this. Go ahead. You might be able to boil water for tea. No. It's not up against your ear. I'm sure it's not a very good idea to have three or four watts of microwaves very close to your head, but you know, I just wouldn't stand in front of it. Anybody else? I think you have too much of an invested body where we are. When 802.11G came out, people were telling me, they were dumping their inventory of 802.11B devices. I bought a lot of them up. A lot of people still using 802.11B. N came out. They said people would drop G. I mean, it's nice to have a faster system and certainly at some point, people transition over. But there are plenty of people satisfied with just being able to get Wi-Fi access at 802.11B. So at present, I don't see that much of a difference. Yes. It was up there. Put it up from there. Yes. Oh, okay. We put up the answers afterwards. Yes. Oh, okay. You get it. It's here. This is a 15 DBI panel. It's about a 30 degree beam. Go ahead in the orange. For maritime, what you want is just a very simple guide pole. You want to gain somewhere in the range of about 9 to 14 DBI and it's far away from the other antennas and the radar as you can. The reason you want it high up is there's too much salt spray generally down low and remember that Wi-Fi doesn't have a great thing. It has a real problem going through moist areas. Try to get above them. If you can't get above them, work with as much power as you can. I mean, you know, 12 to 15 DBI which you can get by getting a card and getting a reasonable antenna. And you can go through a tree or two. That's not a Sequoia. Because remember, by the time you get to the tree... Sorry. By the time you get to the tree, when you've got an antenna which has a 30 degree beam, that tree is only taking up maybe 5% or 10% of the beam. So you can certainly get through. You just have some resistance. The trouble is if the tree is right outside your window then that's a big problem. Any other? Yep. I really haven't gone for long distances. Certainly at about a mile, I kind of get bored. We start walking and come back, but certainly a mile is no problem. I mean, it depends. I'm down in Florida where it's very humid. If I were out in Arizona, I'm sure I would get much longer distances than that. We got Bluetooth at over a mile. So, yes. I'm not sure there's a table, but it's a good thought. It's not an easy one. Again, I don't try to push it. If you've got a local supplier that can get you the cables, I just want to push people to get professionally made cables because they're not that expensive at this point and it makes a big difference. Anybody else? Yes. Well, most of the antennas are tuned for Channel 6. That's generally going to be the highest performance, but it's also the most common one used. And that's one of the sources of interference. So, one of the first things I tell people when you're having problems, you put in a new antenna and you don't see any change is try changing the channel. Go to 2, go to 3. Most people take these routers out of the box and they just plug them in. Whatever the default channel is, they grab it. So, generally the antennas are peak at 6, but with the interference, you may be better off on another channel. Anybody else? No. I'm not saying I could break it, but I guess if I wanted to, I could break it at a few miles. The longer distance you go, certainly you have to worry much more about noise. But, as long as you've got a good Wi-Fi signal, that's not really much of an issue. Yes. We used to use, actually, we used to sell a lot of them. We used to sell a 500 mW amplifier either from Hyperlink or Hawking. It was a nice amp, and the noise level was reasonable. But we've tended now to go with the USB. At this point, there are USB devices that are 200, 300, 500 mW and they don't require external power. What they do require because they need more power is two USB connectors to get that additional power. But I find that most people don't want to be able to be dragging around an extra power cable. So, yes. Well, okay. We've been rushed, and they... Go ahead. To measure power. We have a friend with a lab in Miami. So we measure it in a special room. Outside, there's a little device which we use sometimes called Wi-Fi Spy. Have you seen it? The USB device. Try to measure noise with an ornaco. I mean, again, we're probably pretty much approximating it. Anybody else? I'm sorry, I can't see over there. Go ahead. Yes. It was two years ago at DEFCON and there were several young boys. As a matter of fact, their father had to drive them out there because none of them were old enough to drive. And they brought with them a five-foot dish on the back of a trailer. And they used... They were putting out no more than 40 or 50 mW. But they were doing it across the desert. And the problem was someone then asked them when they came into the DEFCON thing, they said, how far in the desert in Nevada did you get? And they said, we didn't. People looked down. They said, no, no, no. We were in Arizona. Everybody expected that the last record set was 50-some-odd miles and they went 120 miles. So again, point-to-point in a very dry environment with a nice big antenna. You can start off with a little power or you can start off with, you know, a lot of power and a smaller antenna. They were... And they won a big prize. I think this was two years ago. If you go back on the DEFCON website, you'll find it. But that was pretty impressive, 120 miles. Yes. Yeah, well... Yeah. Anybody else? Any general questions about Wi-Fi? Go ahead. Out-of-the-box router, the best way to improve it is first decide, see if you can make it directional. If you're going to put it up against a wall, build a little reflector out of it or put a... or put a piece of tinfoil behind it on the wall and you'll project it forward and you'll probably see 40 or 50% increase. If that doesn't work or you need additional thing, replace those two antennas. It's not that expensive. If you need, you know, directional and you know you've got a single beam, let's say you're trying to get it down. You know, people typically... they have Wi-Fi in its house. Build a can tenna, hook it up to your router and point it out there. You know, you can get a nice half mile for most routers without any problem. Yes. You can boost it and there's nothing wrong with boosting it. It depends how far you want to boost it. If you boost it, the WRT-54G all the way up to the top, you get a lot of noise. So, I mean, that's always a problem when you're boosting something. You know, it's like magnifying something. Every little detail on the photograph, it suddenly becomes amplified. So, I haven't damaged one. You might be able to. I'm sure if you tried. I certainly, you know, added 30% or so to the power and it's been effective without too much noise. So, yes, I can't see. So, anybody else? I can't see. Yes, go ahead. A series of access points connected up by fiber or hard, you know, and putting one, I mean, hotels do this all the time and they're concrete. They simply run a piece of cat fiber fiber and they put one access point on each floor. You walk into a holiday and you try to connect to their free Wi-Fi and you get five of them. So, you don't want to go through multiple concrete walls with Wi-Fi if you don't have to. So, yes, anybody else? I can't see. Yes. You know, I haven't measured. I think it probably just gets scattered somewhat. I mean, anything coming directly back is reflecting for it. Anything coming off the side, I mean, I'd have to draw out the diagrams, but you're just losing it. I mean, but most people, I mean, so many people, I don't know how many of you have your router up against a wall, right? And do you need the router on the other side of the wall? Probably not. So, just when you go home, put a sheet of aluminum foil and tape it up against the wall and you'll always remember I helped you. So, great. Thank you very much.