 Hey, we're about to get into this repair But first I want to let you know that I will be at a convention later this month on October 30th That is in Lebanon, Tennessee, and it's the music city multicon I will have a link to the convention in the description of the video and also have a pinned comment in The comment section where you can go and get more information on The show and what's going to be going on there again It's a very big convention one of the biggest in the Tennessee area So if you're going to be there, please make sure you come by on saturday october 30th and check out the panel And also let me know when you do come and say, hey, I'll be glad to hang out with you We could play some arcade games. I do plan on hanging out there a little bit that day I will not have a full-on retro tech booth I'm just going to do the panel and hang out that saturday october 30th So please let me know if you're going to be there. Otherwise, let's just get right back into this repair Hey, everybody, welcome back today to retro tech. I'm steve and I've got a brand new sonny pvm in the shop This is one that I bought on ebay recently This one was a hundred and forty five dollars shipped to me And of course, there's a catch with that because this monitor should cost more than that if it was working I read through the advertisement and what really struck me on this one was the way that it was listed It was listed as having Been working and then all of a sudden one day it just stopped It looked like it was in pretty decent condition from a physical standpoint And I took a kind of a risk on this one Because I have a little bit of knowledge now I've worked on one of these before and I've shown you where there's fuses on the power supply that do tend to blow And so today what we're going to do is hopefully that's what's wrong with this one We're going to check this fuse and to get things started. I want to go ahead and show you this This pvm's actual power supply. This is the f board again on the sonny pvm 13 43 md There is a connection point right here This connection is where our main ac current comes from our wall. It goes into this This connection point next to it is a ground point And that helps ground out the monitor now What happens here is our ac power goes in and we have a empty slot where there could be a fuse But it's not down here and then we do have a fuse on this other line where the power comes in So that's our first fuse. It's a pretty standard fuse You can actually visibly see if this is blown pretty easily because there's a nice Wire there and if you don't see the wire then that is blown, but we're going to go through and test The fuses in a second The second fuse is up here where the power actually goes out of the monitor and that's at this connection point right here And you have 115 volts coming out of this monitor So there's a fuse right below that It's not installed in this board. It's been removed because i'm going to use this fuse to hopefully fix our broken monitor if that's the problem Now this is a 800 milliamp solid fuse. This doesn't look like the other fuses It's just a solid little component And if it blows it does have to be desoldered and then re-soldered into place So it's not nearly as simple to change as the other pvms Regular fuse like this or most of the other pvms. You'll see will not have this fuse They will actually have more of those fuses in them now today for our test to see if the i'm right even about this problem We need to use a multimeter now. This can really be any multimeter as long as it can trick continuity So what I need to do is first put it over into continuity mode And when continuity mode is in effect, you don't have to worry about anything except listening For a beep which means you have a current path between the two points that you're checking And that's the most important thing because with the fuse blows there will not be current passable through that So just to give you an example We're going to go ahead and test this fuse that I removed to use today And you hear that that is a good fuse. And if I do the same thing with this other Glass fuse that's on the board. You'll also get continuity So let's go ahead and just roll our sony pvm 1343 md over here and we're going to go ahead and test it now. We're going to look at the back side This is again the same power supply But the fuses will be on the back now and we can check right here at these points So if we look down here, this is where our power connection comes in on this f board And this is the first fuse, which is the glass fuse. So let's go ahead and test the glass fuse I'm going to put a point at each end And we have continuity So that means that fuse is good. Just remember that the little squiggly line right here indicates the fuse And you need to test one side The top and the bottom And then if we look up here, we'll see where our connection point goes in from our monitor if we look down here We see f 602 that is our second fuse So we'll do the same thing here only it actually has points on it where it looks more like a through It is a through hole component So it looks more like a resistor or a diode And if you notice here, I am touching these together And i'm getting nothing No current is going between these two points That fuse is blown and when that fuse is blown the monitor will not turn on at all So what we're going to do now is we will remove this fuse will install This salvaged fuse in it and then we will run a current check and see if we've got power going through there And then we can ultimately power on the monitor and see if that will work out So what i'm going to need to do now is i'm going to need to just remove this board And then we'll get set up from the overhead view We'll do some desoldering and we'll replace that fuse and hopefully that can at least get us to the point Where we'll be able to get some power into the main boards and get this monitor to power on hopefully Let's go ahead now and get started on this repair again our fuse is right up here that is bad right in here where my Tweezers are so we need to get it out now thankfully this is going to be pretty easy We don't even have to take it out of this plastic shell to get it out because The points here are pretty accessible Right there So we should be able to desolder this pretty quickly get that fuse out and then get the new one in and solder it into place Now as i get ready for this i'm going to let my hacko fr 301 warm up and i'll tell you about the unboxing I did on this because it was shipped to me again from ebay from chicago And honestly this monitor was the worst packed crt. I have gotten Maybe ever and it was Really a miracle this thing did not come to me destroyed It's probably like a one out of 1 000 chance that it arrived safely somehow the biggest problem Well, one of the biggest problems was a lack of packing material There was only one maybe 10 foot 8 foot length of bubble wrap wrapped sporadically around the monitor And one piece of gray foam that was a little bit protective And then the major issues on this one was for some reason the seller decided to ship it on its backside Where the backside was down the shell and that's the plastic part And somehow it still survived it was in a single layer pretty crappy box that didn't have much room When it arrived to me I could see holes through the box or I could see the bottom of the monitor And I honestly thought there was no way it was going to survive the shipping But then I opened it and somehow it did i mean nothing was broken I can't believe the neck board wasn't broken. I can't believe any of the casings weren't broken Because I have shipped things you've seen and and packed them a hundred times better than that and had them break All right. Our our tools ready to go here. So i'm going to start by just heating up these points And getting rid of that solder And that's pretty loose Old fuse will just fall out And we can take a look at it See there's no real visual indication that this would have blown so you would never know unless you did a continuity check on it So again, just to show you for sure that this one's blown and uh We can go ahead and double run that continuity check And we should have passed through and make noise. We're getting nothing As I probed those Whereas if I probed this one, I'll get a beep So really this is going to be simple This is a through hole component And all it needs to be do it doesn't it's a few so it doesn't really matter which way it goes in There's not a for example positive or negative side It just needs to go in the spot And then you can come in here and kind of push the legs out so it can hold itself a little bit and now Just take A regular soldering iron And go in here And re solder This into place That should be all we need Now Let's quickly Test right here again on our two points just to make sure we have continuity between them We do Last thing I'm going to do is clean up My flux residue, which is rosin core flux in that Solder I use so That needs to be cleaned off. I don't really want to leave that and I got some alcohol wipes here just to do this couple little points and now We should be ready to test this power supply But before we reinstall and test it, I'll tell you about the other points on this board Real quickly we went over This connection point, which is our acn and this is a ground which is looped through the rest of the monitor There's a 115 volt adjustment potentiometer. Please. There's probably no reason you should really mess with that What we've got here is a test point for if you need to run some kind of scope test There's probably one listed in the manual and then this is our main power out So this one's running off a little bit different voltages than others It's got a 7 volt pin a 15 volt pin and 115 volt pin And that's the main power that's been converted by this power supply And spits out of this connection point and goes the rest of the monitor and powers everything up We do have a couple more connection points over here if I can go through those real quickly with you First off right here. This is for our degausing coil That's what helps us clear up our purity and magnetism's issues each time we restart a crt And then we've got our Connection point right here, which just goes to our mechanical switch on the front of the pvm And that controls the on and off by pressing it. It will mechanically open and close That loop for current or that path for current to go through So it's a pretty decently designed power supply one that works rather well And hopefully this fuse change will take care of our issue All right, we're ready to run our first test since replacing the fuse again That's all I have done to this point And what will happen here is this monitor will either turn on or it'll partially turn on or the fuse could pop again If there's some issue that actually causes the fuse to pop the fuse can pop if there's some kind of random surge through the monitor So well, let's just go ahead and try the first thing. There's no menu on this monitor So we'll just have to wait for a second and give it a second to power on if it powers on here we go And look I can already tell it's powered on you hear it got powered to the tube And let's see we've got an rgb. Let's just go with a simpler input. I'd rather do Something that we can get on here quickly. So let's try s video. Okay. Let's send a signal now through This and see if we can get s video To produce an image should be a vtr button There you go, look at that Wow, so So much for my buyer's remorse, right? Let's see How it looks. I mean just to start again Right in s video Yeah I don't see really any purity issues. So a good tube. Oh, yeah It's a little bit of work, but Let's let it run for a while And see how it looks after it gets warmed up Well, the pvm's been running for about an hour and it seems to be pretty stable I hadn't see any hiccups in the screen or anything. No unusual sounds Or really any problems that I can detect from the way it's working right now So it looks like the only problem was that blown fuse, you know, there's a couple reasons I'm showing this too. It's not just to show that you can get a good deal sometimes, but uh, the person who sold this to me, I mean If he had maybe or she had taken the time to Either send this to somebody that could have tested this it's not a very Difficult thing to check actually most of the time if you have an issue with an electronic Item and anybody who knows about electronics and owns a multimeter Would be aware of like a fuse situation if you own one of these pvms all of a sudden stops working one day check these fuses This tool cost 20 dollars The part is probably less than two dollars and overall This one still is going to need some adjustments And it probably needs some cap work done because the capacitors are almost 30 years old in it at this point But it's still uh for 145 dollars delivered. It's a pretty good deal. So Just keep all these things in mind when you're either looking at a pvm Again, these models have that fuse every model has a fuse And if your monitor won't turn on that's pretty much the first thing you should check once you open up Your pvm are the fuses in the power supply Well, that's going to be it for today's episode I definitely will be working on this one some more in the future It's just going to have to go back in the waiting area though for now because I've got other things that are more important to get to Let me know what you thought of today's repair video with a comment below and also, what do you think about that packing job? I don't think I'll ever see another pvm packed like that that will survive again But hey, thankfully this one did and now it looks like it's going to be good So, uh, that's all a win-win situation and thanks again for watching. I'll see you all next time with some more retro content