 So basically essentially we got a limit switch rollout that's tripped on the carrier furnace We're going to yank out the blower and take a look at the secondary heat exchanger and see if we can see any corrosion down there Our hoses here starting to deteriorate. It's not going to help it a whole lot. Yeah, that's bad That black stuff usually is from the soot that's starting to accumulate And that's not usually a good sign We're looking for is to see The corrosion Right there And if you look in the center here In between the plates You'll see that it's eating its way through the secondary And then internally in between on the plates themselves You'll end up having delimination So you can see it in there So yes, this heat exchanger has failed So this would Need to be replaced Another way you could do it is you can yank the draft motor and look at it through there, but Basically this here to me seems to be a little bit easier What we'll end up doing is we'll end up getting a whole new primary and secondary heat exchanger And then when I do that we'll check the niter make sure the igniter is under, you know, the 90 ohms rating And then I'll go ahead and clean everything out. Also another thing with this being propane gas The burners usually are getting rusted, which is what's going on there So I replace the burners too because that can cause a lot of your issues also because when I get dirty and rusted like that The combustion process gets messed up and it burns dirty and that also helps contribute to issues down the line We're also going to have to get a couple hoses to get that back up and going Check our niter here and see what we got that way we can get all our perks figured out in advance Okay, we're at 80 ohms. So technically we're in spec pretty much in the middle of its life expectancy. So That's always an option. You may want to just do it now that way. It's done it out of the way And because this one's on a propane kit, and I don't remember if I mentioned it or not A lot of times we'll have a little pressure low pressure cut out on it. So And then the burns like I said, we're going to Get those in the in the price also We've got the information far as the model serial number So we got to get a hold of the supplier and find out what's covered and what's not right now If he has a heat pump, we're going to try to wire it up. So it'll run the heat pump even though it's cold outside It'd be better than nothing And then that'll help you know supplement the heat Let your heater something like that to get by Outdoor temperature is 24 It's wanting to go straight to auxiliary heat But we don't want the gas furnace to run. So we're going to just go ahead and lock it into auxiliary heat might as well We're basically not going to hook up w. We're going to just run it right out to y So we're going to see how that works versus having to reprogram thermostat and tell it that it's a heat pump with electric strips And all that stuff to trick it. This will get around having to mess around with any reprogramming in it No, unfortunately, it's not going to do great, but at least give them some heat Let's take a look Unhooking the w-wire from the outside unit, which is your return auxiliary heat And we unhook while essentially since this is an auxiliary heat w1 is coming down and connecting to y powering the contactor the heat pump runs In heat mode when o is not energized. So o is obviously not energized as we're in heat mode The fans going to come on automatically when it hits the y terminal And uh, that's why the thing came on immediately So right now we're just waiting for the outdoor unit to come out of the way That works. It should be good to go Until we can get back with a new heat exchanger. We've gone ahead and turned the gas valve off and the gas stops So both of those things are off Burness isn't going to run But uh Kind of safe track back in there and then We're just waiting for the time delay to kick out I can feel a little bit of warmth on it. So it's starting to try to heat, but like I said It's kind of cold out. So it's not going to put out a lot of heat, but it's going to be better than nothing Basically had back feet from that y terminal on the thermostat. So that's why it Caused me some issues there. So we'll go ahead take that jumper out Put a new fuse on there outside make sure the heat comes running Go ahead and check his propane tank. He's at 50 percent. So we know it didn't run low and cause it Plus by looking at that heat exchanger like we did we know that it's pretty well failed Has nothing to do with the pressure being low But those are also things you want to just look at that way you can Help him find these things out in advance So Here's the heat pump it is running and this thing here is looking a little old too. It's a 97 So how well does it work? I mean, it's definitely feeling warm for as cold as it is out here Look at the Sauce stack here. That's another thing you can look at if you're doing your maintenance is And you see that black stuff growing in there. That's the black soot of death That's a sure sign that things aren't good Unless, you know, it's an old Failure that just now is you know, you just happen to be seeing it but So anyhow, I mean it wouldn't be a bad idea to know, you know to mention Hey, maybe you should do the whole upgrade while you're at it. It's an r22 unit So, I mean we can present options. It just depends on what the customer wants to do All you can do is give them the information and let them make an informed decision from that point Right now at this point, this is about as much as we can do for right now We'll get the parts ordered and get back as soon as we can to get him up and going and He can use some electric heaters or some other alternative Heat source to get himself by But at least we've done what we can to at least get him something. All right, got a new fuse in there Got my wires all tucked in and out of the way I don't know if it was truly a Back feeder if maybe one of these wires pushed into the metal or something. I'm not sure but Everything seems to be fine. I've got that trap back in there Traps are definitely something you want to clean out every time you're doing a service This particular one here looks kind of dirty So I'll clean that when I come back if I replace the heat exchanger Not needing to hook any of that stuff back up really but went ahead and did it just Basic so you don't lose it. That's going to wrap this one up here It's just some things that you can do to try to get some body by If the heat exchanger goes out and They have no other form of heat Luckily, he does have a couple electric heaters. So It's a pretty good size house, but this is least going to help out a little bit not a lot, but it will help some All right, we're working on a ream furnace and we're not a ream dealer But basically the flame sensor is dirty and that's cleaning it and it broke it So we're going to braze this thing back together while we order on my new part I've not tried this before so we're going to see if this works basically we're going to use our flux and That's 45 percent solder here braze rod whatever and see if this works I'm hoping it does because otherwise I'm going to have to try to go find something Else to make work Put a little bit of Flux on that thing a little bit on our rod itself And we'll just put a real small flame on this thing Never tried this we're going to see if this works No idea Wow Check that out Unbelievable Obviously, I don't recommend this as being a permanent fix that silver solder should be able to handle That flame from the furnace is not going to be real super hot compared to the flame of the acetylene basically what I used is my Pliers here for a pinch off tool But yeah, it looks like it worked perfectly Unbelievable looks like it ain't even broke. Yeah, it pulled right into that crack and I'm not going to try to break it. Yeah Looks to me like it worked so I'm gonna put it in here and see how it does. I mean, I definitely would not recommend this as a permanent fix by any means or stretch of the imagination But at this point when you're nowhere near supply house You don't uh got one on the truck. That's uh potentially a way to get around get her out of the A pickle worst-case scenario it fails They're right back where they're at right now as you can see That's the reason why it's very difficult to get it in there. So It's got to go like that and literally You cannot Get your fingers in there should come in no surprise why this would happen Push that in or the orange light right there was blinking which usually means flame issue should be solid Not a solid Otherwise, I'm making about an hour and a half round trip to go get the part That's what needs to be working now. She does but like I said, this is not a permanent fix It's just a pickle take her upper So It's kind of generic I like I said I've used this for years and years. It's just a stainless steel brush It's not overly aggressive. It doesn't leave any grooves in the flame sensor Causing it to absorb the nasty crap that gets baked into it while it's running This has worked for me like I said for me. I think this is the best thing over scouring pad A dollar pill and sandpaper and all the other crazy crap out there I've tried everything from cleaners who name it just for experimental purposes and this has been the best thing so far This is just a quick tip minute If you want to call it that If you like the video, please like share and subscribe We'll catch you on the next one