 One thing that I've noticed you want to watch out for is trying to tease too thick of a section. Hello! Good morning, good afternoon, good evening, whatever time it is, wherever you are. Hi, and thank you for joining. I'm here doing FSE Live on your Wednesday morning color class. My name is Brian Hare. Today we're going to be doing something that I've seen all over the internet for a while and I haven't really jumped into until recently, and that is foilage. It's cool because I found a real chill shag mannequin that had no color on it that Matt had already cut, so I was able to go in and any dimension you see is dimension that I just put in there. I wanted to keep it real soft so that you can really see the areas where the highlights have been placed because I felt like if I went too hard then you wouldn't really be able to tell too much, but I came through really focusing more along her face and you'll see like I just played around with a fun little technique that I think will really help out if you've got those guests that just need break up a little bit of softness. This also will come in handy for guests that have like a base color on as well because if you've ever tried to do balayage over a root color that's doing gray coverage, then I'm sure you've discovered that you're going to have to fight through a lot of warmth to get a nice bright highlight. So this is going to give you another method of getting there with maybe a little bit more predictability. All right, so I'm going with regular foil lightener today. I'm doing Sinker Lift. It's a new Sinker Lift Plus with 20 volume because that is just always a good base for when you're looking for predictability. This particular lightener, I like it because you know when to stop spinning the whisk. When you get that nice sheen on top. All right, so I'm going to be working along the face framing sections of this haircut so that you can really get a nice understanding of how we place these highlights and what to expect from your placement. So for my tools, I'm going with a regular foiling comb because I after playing around there's going to be teasing involved and this is what I like teasing with the best. But then I also I'm going to bring out my fun little highlighting comb for in between because what we're going to do is we're going to have a section of a teased highlight that's going to give that lightness throughout the ends but also the softness that teasing before highlighting will give you. And then I'm going to go in with an actual weaved highlight to help bring a little bit of your dimension down closer to the root. So with my first section here, one thing that I've noticed you want to watch out for is trying to tease too thick of a section. If you're trying to tease too thick of a section then even no matter how hard you tease when you go to paint you're going to get a line. So I recommend doing finer sections like this would actually work as a slice if you were looking for a really bold slice highlight to give you an idea of how much hair to be taking here. So I've got my my slice here and then I'm not holding too tight down here. I'm just sort of holding it still for myself and then give myself a nice tease. If I see that I'm getting more hair out of this side than this side then I'll pinch a little bit more off on the right so that when I tease it's bringing more hair up from the left. And then just pay attention to how close to the scalp you're getting with your tease because think of it in terms of however far down you leave your tease your highlight is going to start lower than that. So if you do a very soft tease and only bring it up about halfway then your highlight is only going to be through the ends. That could be fine but that's all you're going to get so make sure you're sort of planning this out before you jump in all willy-nilly. So I've got that tease nice and high up rip myself the smallest foil ever and then my lightener I'm applying it down further than where I want my highlight to actually start and you'll see why in just a second. So I'm going to hit that about halfway down get a good saturation get control of my ends plenty of lightener in there because I want that good consistent lift and then for a little bit of fun just to sort of soften that you can either come in vertically which is an old tried and true method but if you've got a softer bristle brush like this one I've noticed it's kind of fun to have a little bit of extra lightener in there and then just give yourself a swipe up. That's why you want to start lower than where the highlight's going to start because if you're up too high then you can't swipe up you just make a big old mess but now just giving that little swipe up has softened that to make sure I'm not going to have a hard horizontal line right there. We're going to lock it up being careful about where you fold because if you fold and then smash like what I'm saying is if I were to have folded this directly in half I'd be putting all this lightener up on this area where I don't want lightener to exist so I'm going to fold first to protect the areas that are heavily lightened from the areas that are not going to be at all. You can actually throw a little extra artistry into it and maybe not do a completely traditional highlight where you would go all the way up to the root as close as you can go. I'm going to have it a little bit lighter towards the face a little bit deeper towards the back of this foil because it's all those little things that make a difference. Watch your elevation too. I like I like a little bit of elevation when I'm doing my teasing because it just leaves more space free to work. If I come down and try doing all this then again we just start smashing things and pressing things that you're not meaning to so hold it out. Don't grip the hair too tight so that you can actually get some teasing done and then again follow that up with an actual weaved highlight because what's cool about these highlights that you're putting in here your eye is really going to be drawn to the teased highlights and the foliage down here so this is really going to be something for like your periphery. You're not going to really notice these highlights it's just going to give you a general little bump of lightness throughout that mid-shaft that you won't be getting from these because we're starting to get close to what the actual fringe is so then you want to start paying attention with how you're placing and where you're placing because now it's going to be you have to decide do you want like a strong fringe like moneypiece blonde or do you want to continue with like this sort of overall organic so for here you see like I've teased most of that so we're really just going to be adding this little accent trust me in my experience if you're using a regular hard bristle brush that just makes a friggin mess so I would suggest doing a little flick up if you have a softer bristle brush or try it and find out for yourself put a little bit of space this time before I do my weave because again if you're too consistent then it's going to look too mapped out I like to to change it up don't do I like my my work to not be too uniform so I'm switching up my direction of highlight by the way because I stopped and looked at this and realized the way this haircut is sitting I don't want to keep going this direction because it'll just it could look a little blocky so I'm going to change the angle of my highlights right as I come into what this money bit would be here so I think here I'll actually start with a little weave because I don't mind a highlight a little closer to the hairline since I'm dealing with hair that's cut short to long I'm going to hold my fingers over to give myself plenty of room with the short so that I can still give some tease here before I hit this part this is what I did with the fringe on the other mannequin as well I'm going to go ahead finish off this section and then I will attack the part all as one okay so now I want to organize my little part section here so her part falls in the middle of this last section I like to give this to give it the ultimate softness rather than do it the way it's going to lay I'm going to do all this forward I'm going to approach this from the face on so that that way as this falls the softness that I've put in there is going to get even softer by breaking up and splitting in the two different directions even on the part I still really like these little weaves that get closer to the scalp because again it just helps to create dimension that you probably don't even really notice because if you get a small weave like if you were to go in and do a much thicker weave obviously it would have more presence but I'm using the comb that I know from experience gives a very very very fine weave that you barely even notice and what that's going to do is that's going to just break up the actual color of your client's base rather than create strong bold highlights that stand out on their own so that's just going around and doing the face frame so there you have it we've got a nice dimensional lived in organic bg kind of feel using foils that will be great for your guests that have a darker base but really want to get a lighter effect so now you can use foils incubate your lightener but still give it that soft almost hand painted kind of artistic feel so thank you guys be sure to check me out on instagram at hairstyle and go to freestyleneducation.com to download our app so that you can come be a part of the classes and sit live with us and ask questions and critique me as I go instead of just in the comment section all right guys thanks so much have a good one