 Hello everybody. Okay, so today we are going to talk about putting together a quadcopter, a reasonably cheap one, and we are going to use this particular frame, and the reason I'm thinking about this particular frame is because if it is a new build. Now for those who've built before, it's a completely different story. Okay? For those who have built before, it's a completely different story. This is for guys who haven't built before, are thinking about building, would like to be able to build, but want to be able to do it pretty cheap. And that's how I, that's how I started off, trying to do it. It was pretty cheap, and I still do, to be honest with you. Let me just see if I can adjust this. Oh, very slightly. There we go. So what we got here is a quadcopter phone, and you can buy these for around about $15, about £13 are from Banggood, for instance. I'll put one up on the screen there. The reason why I went for this, in particular, the reason why I went for this is because you can buy much bigger frames. Okay? And you can buy smaller frames, even if the ones that will only handle up to five-inch props. You can get, you know, three-inch prop frames and everything. But if you want to build something, and it's your first build, I would suggest that you get something where you've got some space to build with. And what I mean by that is, let's take this. This is the same frame. Okay. And what I've given myself here by building with this pretty good one, and I'm putting a four more coating on these sides, it's been done. As you can see, it's nice and shiny. But what I've given myself with this is I've got plenty of space for the camera. I've got plenty of space for my power distribution board, which is underneath there, and then my flight controller on top of here. And when I take the top off, I've got room. You know, there's cables there. They're not all really short, so you've got a fit and it's a very small space, and that can be quite intricate. And on your first build, it's going to be, you know, it's going to be enough of a challenge without you trying to set yourself up for the maximum challenge. So I'd suggest something like this. This is what they call a H frame. And because it looks a bit like a H, you see that, like that, like a H. And because it has these two, the very bottom plate, and then your legs will go or your arms, whatever you want to call them, we'll go here. And then the top plate, you get a bit of space there to be able to put a strap. And that means you can put your battery on the bottom. Now, some people prefer the battery on the top. Some people prefer the battery on the bottom. Sometimes it's just down to where you can actually fit it. And on this one, you can get a nice 2.2 amp 4S, if you're going to go 4S, zippery compact on the bottom, which is great. I'd suggest, you know, really get 3S first. But so this comes in the kit form, obviously. I'll put the image up there. And as you can see, you get all the bits and pieces. And the only bit I don't see in that kit is this piece here. But you do, if you look at this other image here, you can see that you can get it on top. And that's where you can put a sort of sit on here where these holes are. You get some rubbers. And that would sit either like that or like that. And then you can place a camera there, if you wish. Like a Runcam 2, just for instance, a Runcam 2 if you wanted to. Me, personally, I wouldn't even bother with the camera to start off with. I'd just get myself a little camera I can have in there and have it protected. Because if this is your first build, chances are you're going to crash. And even if you don't crash, it's still nice to just be able to protect your little time and monetary investment. So yeah, so this is a carbon fiber frame. And you can put the multimeter on there if you want to do a continuity test and you will find that it beeps. So we've got a carbon fiber frame. And when we build this, as you can see at the moment on this one, I've got a wide fitting in here for, let's say, this particular Runcam. This is a Runcam house. This is a CMOS. But if you want to try and avoid yellow, I'd stick a CCD in. Just because of the way the shuttering works and when we'll cover the camera, we'll get into that anyway. And I've done a previous video on how to restrict or remove jello in your video. So yeah, so a nice and cheap frame. It's pretty light. It's not the lightest. I mean, I have another frame kicking around here, but it's much smaller. It's much smaller. Just pop that out of the way. And I'm not going to get it all completely out. But in here, I'll put up one half. This will take up to a seven inch prop, but it's a lot smaller. I think that is five mil, but I think it's quite a lightweight frame, but this is a lot more expensive frame. And I've not even got around to building it yet. Let me just put that back out of the way. So yeah. So the reason why I choose this is it's got five mil arms. So if you are going to bump it around, no, I don't mean bumping around is take it up a hundred feet up into the air, spin it around, have it zooming down at 70 mile an hour, then it's going to be okay. It's not okay. You may not break the arm, but you're probably rip, you know, you're probably going to rip parts out. You're going to damage it. You're going to, it's just going to mess it up. It's, um, regardless of how cheap it is, just want to try and take care of it. I prefer to go for control over just throwing the thing around. Get the control first, learn the control, learn how, how its own characteristics behave. Your particular build, because every build is different. Along they're going to be quite similar, especially when it comes to the wiring that we're going to get through the wiring about how you can eliminate a lot of noise in your signals and bits and pieces just by techniques or wiring. And, uh, and yeah, see we can get you up in here, a little quad. And I tell you what, you know, there's nothing more satisfying than building your own and getting it set up and flying it and having that enjoyment of, you know, you know what you've done. And, um, and of course, if anything does start playing up, you know what it is. You know what to look for. And, um, and you know what it is because you've got the intimacy of building your own that you don't get when you buy something. When you buy something, it's all pre done. All you're going to do is, you know, it's fly it. But when you build it for yourself, you get that intimacy, you can take that time and learn that process along the way. And it's much more fulfilling. And I'll tell you what, you know, against the store bought stuff, building your own is better. I think you can ask any of the guys out there about building your own against store bought unless, you know, if you want to spend 2000 pounds on a DJI, that's different. You're not going to be spending 2000 pounds on this, but still for your, for your, um, satisfaction of flying it and building it, you won't get that from a DJI and you'll always be stuck with DJI, DJI, the DJI, not saying that that's such a terrible thing. If that's what you want to do for commercial purposes, stuff like that. But for those who just want to get into the hobby or just want to build for yourself, um, you know, this is, this is the way to go forward. This is really the way to go forward. So just for that's it for the start of it. In your kit, you know, you're going to get all your bits and pieces. And what I'm going to do is off camera, I'm going to put this together. I'm going to show you what it looks like off camera. And the only, there's only going to be like maybe one, one bit that I'm going to do is I'm going to put my cables through like I have on here. I'm going to pump these two plates and feed them up. So they come up through the section here and then connect into my distribution board. So I don't have the wires running out the back here and it helps keep them quite clamped there. Not too terribly tight. As you can see, they move. Nothing's cutting into anything. And there's enough on there as well for anything to connect there without being a problem. But that's how I do mine. And I make sure that I put my strap through as well. And I have these bits of padding on the bottom, because this means that even if the on these ones, let me see, on these ones, you had the nuts are actually built into the frame as it were the thread for you to screw into is built into the frame. But you may find if you're, if you're a little bolts, a little bit more extended, and you put a battery on the back here, it may sometimes look like it may dig into the battery. So I put this pattern on here so it clamps it all nicely to the pattern. It is slightly firm. So you can put a nice good tight connection there. And the battery does not slip or move at all, which is absolutely fantastic. And that just builds that into it then, which is really good. And you won't lose this because it's not very easy to come out. If you leave it strapped like that, that's just not going to happen at all. So that's the start for this video. I can't, if there's anything to do in the build that I think it's worth pointing out. I'll point it out. You can imagine now if you've got a little short bolt, they're going to go from the bottom up into these. And the longer ones are going to be for your arms. Now, again, you know, you're going to have longer ones to put through these, because this is a five mil arms. And these on here are three mil arms. I did start off with five mil arms. I found that I wasn't particularly crashing to do any real damage or anything like that. So I ended up putting my three mil arms on because the difference in weight, these are 36 grams each. No, no, no, no, maybe I've got that slightly on but I'll tell you what I do know that I do remember correct down a bit is that there's nine grams difference between the three and the five millimeter arms. So you're nine grams lighter with the three millimeter arms. And overall, that's 36 grams. Nine times four is 36. So that's 36 grams lighter. And when it comes to your builds like this, you know, every gram is counting, every gram is counting. So that's it just for this bit. This is, is wanting to go over why I'm choosing this particular frame. And we're going to say again, one is carbon fiber, it's nice and rigid. It's cheap. It's cheap. And that's very important because if you are going to break it, hey, just just damage a cheap frame, much better to replace things on those. He's got the five millimeter arms for starters. So that's good. Just to get your confidence up and you're quite happy that you can handle it. And, you know, you're not bashing in the belt. And, and it's a H frame, that being the H frame, you know, if you see a lot of them, they could be straight X, isn't they? They're going to be pretty nimble, pretty nimble. But this one gives you a little bit more stability. And it's a little bit bigger, a little bit higher than a lot. You've got a lot more space in there for putting your bits and pieces. You've got a receiver to go in there, you've got video transmitter, you've got your camera, you've got your power distribution board, you've got your flight controller. If your flight controls got built in OSD, that's great. Well, you might even have a separate on-screen display. So all these things are going to fit in and you've got to wire it together. And so it's good to be able to have a little bit of space on your first build to be able to do that, rather trying to compact it into something, which is the body of this. It may have seven inch on here, like the other frame I just showed you, but the body size for it is half the size. Okay, and if you've got a build by a stack, you might find you're spending out more on a stack as well. Because we put the ACs on the arms here, which is quite nice and pretty chunky. So again, that's the reason that I would suggest buying something like this, choosing something like this for your first build, nothing the first build, it's different. You have a lot better idea of what it is you're doing, what you're getting yourself into. But for the first one, I'd go for it. Cheap, but not particularly too cheerful. Enough space for you to get around it, have a look around it. And yeah, and it still made a carbon fiber. Okay, right, I'll see you in the next one. Thanks for watching, guys.