 30 Christmas Day, Calend's and Mass, Amateur Performances, Solo, Posadas, Wondering of the Holy Family, Nacimiento, Crowded Party, French Cooks, Mexican Cook, State of Household, New Year's Day, Mass, Dirtiness of the Churches, etc. Comparisons, Private Chappals, English Club, Preparations for Journey. 25 Christmas Day One year this evening since we made our entry into Mexico, what a different aspect everything has assumed to us in one year. Then every object was new, every face that of a stranger. Now we are surrounded by familiar sights and sounds and above all by friendly faces. But though novelty which has its charms and its disagreements has gone, nothing in Mexico even appears commonplace. Everything is on so large a scale and everything so picturesque. Then there is so much interest attached to its old buildings, so much to see even though there are no sights and no show places unless we are to put in that class the Minera Museum, Cathedral, University and Botanic Garden, usually visited by travellers, that at whatever period we may leave it I feel convinced we shall regret some point of interest that we have left unvisited. Some days ago coloured cards printed in gilt letters were sent round inviting all the Senators friends to the Mass in this form. J-E-B-O-G requests that you will honour him with your presence and that of your family in the solemn function of Calenzen Mass with which he annually makes an humble remembrance of the birth of the Saviour, which festivity will take place on the morning of the 24th of this month at 9 o'clock in the parish church of the Sagrario of the Holy Cathedral. Mexico, December 1840 By nine we were all assembled in the choir. Don B. O. in his uniform dark blue and gold, we in Montillas. The church looked very splendid and as usual on these occasions no leperos were admitted, therefore the crowd was very elegant and select. The affair went off brilliantly. Four or five of the girls and several of the married women have superb voices and not one of all those who sang in chorus had a bad voice. The finest I almost ever heard is that of the Senorita C., where she'd studied in Italy I venture to predict that she might rival Grisi. Such depth, power, extension and sweetness with such richness of tone in the upper notes are very rarely united. She sang a solo in such tones that I thought the people below must have been inclined to applaud. There are others whose voices are much more cultivated and who have infinitely more science. I speak only of the raw material. The orchestra was really good and led by a first-rate musician. I was thankful when my part of the entertainment was over and I could give an individual attention to the others. The celebration lasted four hours, but there was rather a long sermon. You will shortly receive a detailed account of the whole which is to be published in the make-an-animal called The Lady's Guide. In the evening we went to the house of the Marquesa De Vio to spend the Christmas Eve. On this night all the relations and intimate friends of such family assemble in the house of the head of the clan, a real gathering and, in the present case, to the number of fifty or sixty persons. This is the last night of what are called the Posadas, a curious mixture of religion and amusement, but extremely pretty. The meaning is this. At the time when the decree went forth from Caesar Augustus that all the world should be taxed, the Virgin and Joseph, having come out of Galilee to Judea to be inscribed for the taxation, found Bethlehem so full of people who had arrived from all parts of the world that they wandered about for nine days without finding admittance in any house or tavern, and on the ninth day took shelter in a manger where the Saviour was born. For eight days this wandering of the Holy Family to the different Posadas is represented and seems more intended for an amusement to the children than anything serious. We went to the Marquesas at eight o'clock in about nine the ceremony commenced. A lighted taper is put into the hand of each lady and a procession was formed, two by two which marched all through the house, the corridors and walls of which were all decorated with evergreens and lamps, the whole party singing the litanies. Kaye walked with the dowager Marquesa and a group of little children dressed as angels joined the procession. They wore little robes of silver or gold lama, plumes of white feathers and a profusion of fine diamonds and pearls in bandeau, bruxes and necklaces, white gauze wings and white satin shoes embroidered in gold. At last the procession drew up before a door and a shower of fireworks was sent flying over our heads, I supposed to represent the descent of the angels, for a group of ladies appeared dressed to represent the shepherds who watched their flocks by night upon the plains of Bethlehem. Then voices supposed to be those of Mary and Joseph struck up a hymn in which they begged for admittance saying that the night was cold and dark, that the wind blew hard and that they prayed for a night's shelter. A chorus of voices from within refused admittance. Again those without and treated shelter and at length declared that she at the door who thus wandered in the night and had not where to lay her head was the Queen of Heaven. At this name the doors were thrown wide open and the holy family entered singing. The scene within was very pretty, enacimiento. Platforms going all around the room were covered with moss on which were disposed groups of wax figures, generally representing passages from different parts of the New Testament, though sometimes they began with Adam and Eve in paradise. There was the annunciation, the salutation of Mary to Elizabeth, the wise men of the east, the shepherds, the flight into Egypt. There were green trees and fruit trees and little fountains that cast of fairy columns of water and flocks of sheep and a little cradle in which to lay the infant Christ. One of the angels held a waxen baby in her arms. The whole was lighted very brilliantly and ornamented with flowers and garlands. A padre took the baby from the angel and placed it in the cradle and the posada was completed. We then returned to the drawing-room, angels, shepherds and all, and danced till suppertime. The supper was a show for sweet-meats and cakes. Today, with the exception of there being no service in all the churches, Christmas is not kept in any remarkable way. We are spending this evening alone and very quietly. Tomorrow we have a soiree. I have letters from CN from Cuernavaca, delighted with the beauties of Tierra Caliente, and living amongst roses and orange trees. I hope that in January we shall be able to go there, in case anything should occur to induce us to leave Mejico before next winter. Twenty-seventh. We had a very crowded party last evening. I think the best we have had yet. A fact which I mention, because I triumph in my opinion, that these weekly parties would succeed in Mejico having proved correct. I have lately been engaged in search of a cook, with as much pertinacity as Japheth in search of his father, and with as little success as he had in his preliminary inquiries. One, a Frenchman I found out, had been tried for murder, another was said to be deranged, a third who announced himself as the greatest artist who had yet condescended to visit Mejico, demanded a salary which he considered suitable to his abilities. I tried a female Megan in spite of her flowing hair. She seemed a decent woman and tolerable cook, and although our French housekeeper and prime minister had deserted us at our utmost need, we ventured to leave the house and to spend the day at Acubaya. On our return found the whole establishment unable to stand. Cook, tipsy, soldier's ditto, galloping slightly intoxicated, ensured the house taken care of itself, no standing force but the coachman and footman who have been with us some time and appear to be excellent servants. I am however promised a good Mejican housekeeper and trust that some order will be established under her government, also a Chinese cook with a celestial character. Letters from Spain announcing the speedy arrival of a secretary of legation in another attache. 1st January, 1841 A happy new year to all. We began it by attending early mass in San Francisco about the cleanest church in Mexico, and most frequented by the better classes. There you may have the good fortune to place yourself between two well-dressed women, but you are equally likely to find your neighbor a beggar with a blanket. Besides, the floor is nearly as dirty as that of the cathedral. This dirtiness is certainly one of the greatest drawbacks to human felicity in this beautiful country, degrading the noble edifices dedicated to the worship of God, destroying the beautiful works distinct for the benefit of His creatures. The streets, the churches, the theaters, the marketplace, the people all are contaminated by these evil. The marketplace is indeed full of flowers and green branches and garlands, but those who sell the flowers and weave the wreaths are so dirty, that the effect of what would otherwise be the prettiest possible picture is completely destroyed. In the theater there is a series of suffocating odors, especially in the dimly-lighted corridors, which is anything but agreeable. The custom of kneeling on the floor in church seems fitting and devout, but there surely can be no reason why the floor of a sacred building should not be kept scrupulously clean, or why the lower classes should not be obliged to dress themselves with common decency. Those who are unable to do so, though probably there are not half a dozen people in Mexico who do not wear rags merely from indolence, should certainly have a place set apart for them, in which case this air of squalid poverty would no doubt disappear. On occasion of any peculiar fit, the churches washed and beggars are excluded, and then indeed these noble edifices seem fitting temples wearing to worship the most high. On other days, in addition to the leperos, especially in the cathedral, the Indian women are in the habit of bringing their babies and baskets of vegetables to church, and the babies on their part are in the habit of screaming, as babies will when they consider themselves neglected. This may be difficult to amend, the poor woman having come in from her village and perforce brought her progeny with her, but the strong stout man in rags who prefers begging to working, the half-naked woman who would consider herself degraded by doing anything to better her condition, except asking for alms, the dogs which wander up and down during divine service, all these might be brought to order by proper regulations. Notwithstanding all these drawbacks I have sometimes compared, in my own mind, the appearance of a fashionable London chapel with that of a Mexican church on the occasion of a solemn fit, and the comparison is certainly in favour of the latter. The one light, airy and gay with its velvet-lined pews, its fashionable preacher, the ladies a little sleepy after the last night's opera addressed in the most elegant morning toilette, and casting furtive glances at the lady, blanks bonnet and feathers, and it misses blank's cashmere shawl or lovely ermine police, and exchanging a few fashionable nothings at the door as the footmen let down the steps of their gay equipages. The other, solemn, stately and gloomy and showing no distinction of rank. The floor covered with kneeling figures, some enveloped in the reboso, others in the mantilla, and all alike devout, at least in outward seeming. No showy dress or gay bonnet or fashionable mantel to cause the eye of the poor to wander with envy or admiration. Apparently considering themselves alike in the sight of heaven, the peasant and the Marquesa kneel side by side with little distinction of dress and all appear occupied with their own devotions without observing either their neighbour's dress or degree of devoutness. Religious feeling may be equally strong in the frequenters of both places of worship, but as long as we possess senses which can be affected by external objects, the probabilities of the most undivided devotional feeling are in favour of the latter. The eye will wander, the thoughts will follow where it leads, it rests on elegant forms and fashionable toilettes. In the other it sees nothing but a mass of dark and kneeling figures or a representation of holy and scriptural subjects. However, one consequence of the exceeding dirtiness of the Maycan churches and the number of leperos who haunt them as much in the way of their calling as from devotion is that a great part of the principal families here, having oratorios in their houses, have engaged the services of a padre and have a mass at home. There is a small chapel in the house of General B.A., the handsomest house in Mexico, where there is a virgin carved in wood, one of the most exquisite pieces of sculpture that can be seen. The face is more than angelic, it is divine, but a divine nature suffering mortal anguish. 27. On the first of February we hoped to set off on an expedition to Tierra Caliente, from which Sien returned some time ago. We have, by good fortune, procured an excellent Maycan housekeeper, under whose auspices everything was assumed a very different aspect and to whose care we can entrust the house when we go. Nothing remarkable has occurred here lately, the usual routine of riding on horseback, visiting in carriage, walking very rarely in the Alameda, driving in the paseo, meeting at Takubaya, a three-weekly soirees, ferried by a diplomatic dinner in the house of the blank minister, and by the dinner of the English club, whom met here yesterday, by a sale of books after dinner, in which the president of the society fined me five dollars for keeping a stupid old poem past the time, upon which I moved that the poem should be presented to me, which was carried, Nemcon. We have been strongly advised not to attempt this journey because the lives of robbers and robberies related by credible persons are not encouraging. Robbers, bad roads, horrible heat, poisonous animals, many are the difficulties prognosticated to us. The season is already rather advanced, but it has been impossible for us to set off sooner. Our next letters will be written either during our journey, should we find the opportunity or after our return. End of letter the 30th. Letter the 31st of Life in Mexico. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org Life in Mexico by Francis Calderón de la Barca. Letter the 31st. Leave Mexico. Cuerna Vaca. Tierra Caliente. Atlaca Mulco. Orange Groves. Sugarcane. Animal Produce. Wheel of Cortes. Description. Coffee Plantation. Scorpions. List of venomous reptiles. Accapacino. Doubts and difficulties. A Decision. Atlaca Mulco. February the 2nd. Masterhouse. Too sunny to go out and nothing else to do or temptation sufficient to induce me to sit down and give you an account of our proceedings during these last two days. Yesterday the 1st of February at four in the morning very sleepy we set off in the diligence which we had taken for ourselves our sole luggage two portmanteaus in a carpet bag our dresses dark strong calico gowns robosos tied on like scarves, and thick green barrage veils. A government escort of four soldiers with a corporal renewed four times accompanied us as far as Cuernavaca, which is about eighteen leagues from Mexico, and the entrance as it were to Tierra Caliente. These are supposed sufficient to frighten away three times the number of robbers whose daring however has got to such a height that no diligence now arrives from Puebla without being robbed. Six robberies have happened there in the last fortnight, and the road to Cuernavaca is said to be still more dangerous. We took chocolate before starting and carried with us a basket of cold meat and wine, as there is nothing on the road that can be called an inn. When we set off it was cool, almost cold, the astralamps were out, and the great solar lamp was not yet lighted. But soon, like lobster-boiled, the mourn from black to red began to turn. By the time we had reached San Orostín, where we changed horses, the sun had risen, enabling us to see all the horrors of the road which, after leaving that beautiful village with its trees and gardens, winds over the mountains amongst great volcanic rocks, a toilsome ascent, and passes by the village of Jajusco, a miserable robber's nest. Yet the view as we looked back from this barren tract, while the sun was breaking over the summits of the mountains, was very grand in its mixture of fertility and wildness, in its vast extent of plains and villages, with their groves and gardens, and in its fine view of Mexico itself, white and glittering in the distance. The mountains of Jajusco, clothed with dark forests of pine, frowned on our right, and looked worthy of its brigand-haunted reputation. At La Guardia, a collection of miserable huts, which changed horses and declined some suspicious looking frijoles in dirty saucers, which were offered to us, a proof both that we were young travellers in this country, and that we had not exhausted our basket of civilized provender. The road wound round through a succession of rocks and woods till we reached Cruz del Marques, the Marquis being of course Cortes, while the cross, it is said, was planted there by him to mark the limits of his territory, or rather that which the Indian Emperor had assigned him. At two o'clock the heat became intense and we began to see and to feel symptoms of our approach to Tierra Caliente. We arrived at the Indian village of Huilchilaque, which is rather pretty, with cane cottages and a good many flowering trees, and from the eminence on which it is situated the hot land is visible. The diligence now began galloping down the rocky and stony descent. The country looked even more arid than before. The vegetation more dried up. Not a tree, but here and there at long intervals a feathery cocoa or a palm, and occasionally some beautiful unknown wild flowers. But the heat, the dust, the jolting. When at length we rattled through Cuernavaca and stopped before the quiet looking in, it was with joy that we bade a do for some time at least to all diligence, coaches and carriages, having to trust for the future to four legged conveyances which we can guide as we please. Cuernavaca, cow's horn, the ancient Guanajuac, was one of the thirty cities which Charles V gave to Cortes and afterwards formed part of the estates of the Duke of Montelion. Representative of the family of Cortes as Marquis of the Valley of Oaxaca. It was celebrated by the ancient riders for its beauty, its delightful climate and the strength of its situation, defended on one side by steep mountains and on the other by a precipitous ravine through which ran a stream which the Spaniards crossed by means of two great trees that had thrown their branches across the barangha and formed a natural bridge. It was the capital of the Lahuaca Nation and after the conquest Cortes built here a splendid palace, a church and a convent of Franciscans believing that he had laid the foundation of a great city. And in fact it's a delicious climate, the abundance of the water, the mineral said to exist in the neighborhood, its fine trees, its fruits and vicinity to the capital all combined to render it a flourishing city. It is however a place of little importance, though so favored by nature and the conqueror's palace is a half-ruined barrack, though a most picturesque object, standing on a hill behind which starts up the great white volcano. There are some good houses and the remains of the church which Cortes built celebrated for its bold arch, but we were too tired to walk about much and waited most anxiously for the arrival of horses and men from the sugar estate of Don Anselmo, Zuru Tusa, At Atlaca-Mulco, where we were to pass the night. The house where the diligence stopped was formerly remarkable for the fine garden attached to it and belonged to a wealthy proprietor. We sat down amongst the fruit trees by the side of a clear tank and waited there till the arrival of our horses and guides. It was nearly dusk when they came. The sun had gone down, the evening was cool and agreeable, and after much kicking and spurring and loading of mules and barking of dogs, we sat off over hill and dale through pretty wild scenery as far as we could distinguish by the faint light, climbing hills and crossing streams for two leagues, till at length the fierce fires pouring from the sugar oven chimneys of Atlaca-Mulco gave us notice that we were near our haven for the night. We galloped into the courtyard amongst dogs and negroes and Indians and were hospitably received by the administrator, the agent. Greatly were we divided between sleep and hunger, but hunger gained the victory, and an immense smoking supper received our most distinguished attention. This morning, after a refreshing sleep, we rose and dressed at eight o'clock, laid hours for Tierra Caliente, and then went out into the coffee plantation and an orange walk. Anything so lovely! The orange trees were covered with their golden fruit and fragrant blossom. The lemon trees bending over formed a natural arch which the sun could not pierce. We laid ourselves down on the soft grass, contrasting this day with the proceeding. The air was soft and balmy and actually heavy with the fragrance of the orange blossoms and starry jasmine. All around the orchard ran streams of the most delicious clear water, trickling with sweet music and now and then a little cardinal, like a bright red ruby would purge on the trees. We pulled bouquets of orange blossom jasmine, lilies, double red roses, and lemon leaves and wished we could have transported them to you. To those lands where winter is now wrapping the world in his white winding sheet. The gardener or coffee planter, such a gardener, don Juan by name with an immense black beard, mehican hat and military sash of crimson silk, came to offer us some orangeade and having sent to the house for sugar and tumblers, pulled the oranges from the trees and drew the water from a clear tank overshadowed by blossoming branches and cold as though it had been iced. There certainly is no tree more beautiful than the orange with its golden fruit, shining green leaves and lovely white blossoms with so delicious fragrance. We felt this morning as if at Lacomulco was an earthly paradise. It belongs in fact to the Duke of Montelion and is led by his agent Don Louis Allaman to Senor Zorotusa. Its average annual produce of silver is about 30,000 and a roba containing 25 pounds. The sugarcane was unknown to the ancient mehicans who made syrup of honey and also from the mage and sugar from the stalk of maize. The sugarcane was introduced by the Spaniards from the Canary Islands to Santo Domingo. From Wednesday passed to Cuba and Mexico. The first sugarcane were planted in 1520 by Don Pedro de Atienza. The first cylinders were constructed by Gonzalo de Villosa and the first sugar mills built by the Spaniards at that time were worked by hydraulic wheels and not by horses. M. D. Humboldt, who examined the will of Cortez, informs us that the conqueror had left sugar plantations near Cuyoacan in the valley of Mexico, where now owing it is opposed to the cutting down of the trees the coal is too great for sugarcane or any other tropical production to thrive. There are few negroes on these sugar plantations. Their numbers have not increased since their introduction. We observed, but one old negro said to be upwards of a hundred who was working in the courtyard as we passed. The generality of the workmen are Indians. As for the interior of this haciendas they are all pretty much alike so far as we have seen. A great stone building which is neither farm nor country house according to our notions, but has a character peculiar to itself. Solid enough to stand a siege with floors of painted brick, large deal tables, wooden benches, painted chairs and white washed walls, one of two painted or iron bedsteads, only put up when wanted. Numberless empty rooms, kitchen and outhouses, the courtyard a great square round which stands the house for boiling the sugar whose furnaces blaze day and night. The house with machinery for extracting the juice from the cane, the refining rooms, the places where it is dried etc., all on a large scale. If the hacienda is as here a coffee plantation also, then there is the great mill for separating the beans from the chaff and sometimes also there are buildings where they make brandy. Here there are 400 men employed exclusive of boys, 100 horses and a number of mules. The property is generally very extensive containing the fuels of sugarcane, planes for cattle and the pretty plantations of coffee, so green and spring-like, this one containing upwards of 50,000 young plants, all fresh and vigorous, besides a great deal of uncultivated ground abandoned to the deer and hares and quails of which there are great abundance. For four months in the year Tierra Caliente must be a paradise and it has the advantage over the coasts in being quite free from yellow fever. But the heat in summer and the number of poisonous insects are great drawbacks. Of these the alakrans or scorpions which haunt all the houses are amongst the worst. Their bite is poisonous and to a child deadly, which is one of the many reasons why these estates are left entirely to the charge of an agent and though visited occasionally by the proprietor rarely lived in by the family. The effects are more or less violent in different constitutions. Some persons will remain for eight days in convulsions, foaming at the mouth and the stomach swelled as if by dropsy, others by immediate remedies do not suffer much. The chief cures are brandy, taken in sufficient quantities to stupify the patient. Guyacum and boiled silk, which last is considered most efficacious. In Durango there are particularly numerous and venomous, so that a reward is given for so many heads of scorpions to the boys there to encourage them to destroy them. The senora blank who lives there feels no inconvenience from their bite, but the scorpion who bites her immediately dies. It is pretended that they prefer dark people to fare, which is to suppose them very discriminating. Those yet there have been few seen in the houses, I must confess that we feel rather uneasy at night, and scrupulously examine our beds and their environs before venturing to go to sleep. The walls being purposely whitewashed it is not difficult to detect them, but where the roofs are formed of beams they are very apt to drop through. There are other venomous reptiles for whose sting there is no remedy, and if you would like to have a list of these interesting creatures, according to the names by which they are known in these parts, I can furnish you with one from the best authority. These, however, are generally to be found about outhouses and only occasionally visit our apartments. There is the chikaklina, a strapped viper, of beautiful colors, the koralio, a viper of a coral color with a black head, the vinagrio, an animal like a large cricket. You can discover it when in the room by its strong smell of vinegar. It is orange-colored and taps upon the person whom it crawls over without giving any pain, but leaving a long train of deadly poison. I have fancied that I smelt vinegar in every room since hearing this. The salamanqueza, whose bite is fatal, it is shaped like a lizard. The eslaboncillo, which throws itself upon you and, if prevented from biting you, dies of spite. The kenquatl, which has five feet and shines in the dark so that fortunately a warning is given of the vicinity of these animals in different ways. In some by the odor they exhale, in some by the light they emit, and in others, like the rattlesnake, by the sound they give out. Then there is a beautiful black and red spider called the chinklakili, whose sting sends a pain through all your bones, the only cure for which is to be shut up for several days in a room thick with smoke. There are also the tarantula and kasampuga spiders. Of the first which is a shocking looking soft, fat creature covered with dark hair it is said that the horse which treads on it instantly loses its hoof, but this wants confirmation. Of the scorpions the small yellowish colored ones are the most dangerous, and it is pretended that their bite is most to be apprehended at midday. The workmen occasionally eat them after pulling out the sting. The flesh of the viper is also eaten roasted as a remedy against eruptions of the skin. Me thinks the remedy is worse than the disease. But to banish this creeping subject, which seems not at all in unison with the lovely scenes that surround us, and eaten where no serpent should enter, we have been riding this evening to a beautiful little Indian village called Akampansingo, then which I never beheld anything prettier in its way. Some few houses there are of stone, but the generality are of cane, and each cottage is surrounded by fruit trees and by others covered with lilac or white blossoms, and twined with creepers. The lanes or streets of the lilies are cleanly swept and shaded by the blossoming branches that overhang them, while every now and then they are crossed by little streams of the purest water. I think I never knew what really delicious water was till I came here. The Indians, both men and women, looked clean, and altogether this is the prettiest Indian village we have yet seen. As we are, very anxious to visit the celebrated cave of Kakao Milpa, near the city of Kuala Milpa, and also to see as much of Tierra Caliente as possible, we have determined, though with regret to leave our present quarters at La Camolta tomorrow morning at two o'clock a.m., as there are no ends we are furnished with letters of recommendation to the proprietors of the chief haciendas in these parts. Formerly there was so much hospitality here that an annual sum, three thousand dollars, it is said, was assigned by the proprietors to their agents for the reception of travelers, whether rich or poor, and whether recommended or not. Our plan of visiting the cave has been nearly frustrated by the arrival of General C. S., a neighbouring proprietor who assured us that we were going to undertake an impossibility, that the barangas by which we must pass to arrive at the cave were impassable for women, the mountain paths being so steep and perpendicular that men and horses had frequently fallen backwards in the ascent, or been plunged forward over the precipices, in attempting to descend. We were in despair when it was suggested that there was another, though much longer road to the cave, by which we might ride. And though our time is at present very precious, we were too glad to agree to this compromise. C. N. and A. have returned from a shooting expedition in which they have not been very successful, and though I have only recounted to you the beginning of our adventures I must stop here and take a few hours' rest before we set off on our matinal expedition. C. N. and A. leave at La Camulco, assemble by starlight, balmy atmosphere, flowers and trees of the tropics, the formidable barangas, breakfast under the trees, force of the sun, miacatlán, hospitality, profitable estate, leave miacatlán, beautiful village, musical bells, ride by moonlight, sugar fires, co-co-yotla, old gentleman, supper, orange trees and cocos, delicious water, sugar estates, a scorpion, set off for the cave, morning ride, dangerous path, co-co-yotla, fifth. On the morning of the third of February we rose about half-past two, and a little after three, by the light of the stars and the blaze of the sugar fires, our whole party were assembled on horseback in the courtyard. We were about twelve in number. Don Juan, the coffee planter, and Don Pedro, a friend of his, were deputed by the agent to act as our guides. Four or five well-armed mozos, farm servants, were our escort, together with our mehican boy, and we had mules to carry our luggage, which was compressed into the smallest possible compass. The morning was perfectly enchanting, and the air-like balm, when we set off by this uncertain light, not on roads, much to our satisfaction, but through fields and over streams, by hills and down into valleys, climbing among stones, the horses picking their way like goats. I certainly never felt or imagined such an atmosphere. The mere inhaling it was sufficient pleasure. When the light gradually began to dawn so that we could discern each other's faces, and made sure that we were not a party of shadows, for besides the obscurity, a mixture of sleepiness and a placid delight had hitherto kept us all silent. We looked round on the landscape as little by little, it assumed form and consistency. The fires from the hacienda were still visible, but growing pale in the beams of morning, vanishing like false visions from before the holy light of truth. As we rode along, we found the scenery on the hilly parts was generally bleak and sterile. The grass dried up and very little vegetation, but wherever we arrived at a valley sheltered from the sun's rays, there we found a little rivulet trickling through it, with water like liquid diamonds, bathing the trees and the flowers. The loveliest blossoming trees mingled with bananas, oranges and lemons, and interspersed with bright flowers, forming a natural garden and orchard. One tree, with no leaves on it, is covered with white starry flowers, and looks at a distance as if it had been covered with snow, which had melted off the branches leaving only occasional white tufts. Another is bending with lilac blossoms, which hang in graceful clusters, another with flowers like yellow balls. Then there are scarlet wild flowers that seem as if they were made of wax or shining coral, and quantities of white jasmine trailing on the grass and throwing itself over the branches of the trees. There is one beautiful tree with flowers like immense white lilies and buds that look like shut lily blossoms in white wax. Leaving these beautiful and fertile lands that adorn the slopes and bases of the hills, you mount again up the steep paths, and again you find the grass dried up, and no vegetation but stunted no piles or miserable looking blue-green magees. Yet, sometimes in the most desert spot, a little sheltered by a projecting hill, you come upon the most beautiful tree bending with rich blossoms, standing all alone, as if through ambition it had deserted its lowly sisters in the valley, and stood in its exalted station, solitary and companionless. As for the names of these tropical trees, they are almost all Indian, and it is only botanically that they can be properly distinguished. There is the Floripundio, with white odoriferous flowers hanging like bells from its branches, with large pointed pale green leaves. The Yohohoketil, signifying flower of the heart, like white stars with yellow hearts, which when shot have the form of one and the fragrance of which is delicious. That is Hohoketil, whose flowers look like small white musk roses, another with a long Indian name and which means the flower of the raven, and is white, red and yellow. The Indians use it to adorn their altars, and it is very fragrant as well as beautiful. After six hours good riding our guides pointed out to us the formidable Barrancas at some distance, and expressed their opinion that with great caution our horses being very sure-footed, we might venture to pass them by which means we should save three leagues, and be enabled to reach Anhasienda within six leagues of the cave that night, and after some deliberation it was agreed that the attempt should be made. These Barrancas, the word literally means a ravine or mountain gully, are two mountains, one behind the other, which it is necessary to cross by a narrow path that looks like a road for goats. We began the ascent in silence and some fear, one by one till the horses were nearly perpendicular. It lasted about twenty minutes, and we then began to descend slowly, certainly not without some danger of being thrown over our horses' heads. However, we arrived in safety at the end of the first mountain, and this being accomplished drew up to rest our horses and mules beside a beautiful clear stream bordered by flowering trees. Here some clear-headed individual of the party proposed that we should open our hamper containing cold chicken, hand-eggs, sherry, etc., observing that it was time to be hungry. His suggestion was agreed to without a dissenting voice and a napkin being spread under a shady tree, no time was lost in proving the truth of his observation. A very ingenious contrivance for making a wine glass by washing an egg shell in the stream is worthy of record. When we had demolished the cold chicken, the muzzles surrounded the cold meat and after gathering branches covered with beautiful flowers, with which we ornamented our horses' heads and our own hats, we prepared to ascend the second mountain. This is as steep or nearly as steep as the first, but we were already confident in the sure-footedness of our horses and even able to admire the view as we ascended single file. After much rain this path must of course be completely impassable. The day had now become oppressively warm, though it was not later than eleven o'clock, and having passed the hills we came to a dusty high road which, about twelve, brought us to the Hacienda of Miacaplan, belonging to the family of Perez Palacio. We were overtaken on the road by the eldest son of the proprietor, who cordially invited us in and introduced us to the ladies of his family, and to his father, a fine noble-looking old gentleman. As we were excessively tired, hot and dusty, we were very glad to spend a few hours here during the heat of the sun, and after joining the family at breakfast, consisting of the most extraordinary variety of excellent dishes, with a profusion of fine fruits and curious sweet-meats, amongst which was the ethereal-looking production called Angel's Hair, Cabella de Angel, we were glad to lie down and rest till four o'clock. This Hacienda is very productive and valuable, and has a silver mine on it. There is also every variety of fine fruit, especially the largest cedrats I ever saw, which although they have not a great deal of flavor, are very refreshing. With all their beauty and fertility there is something very lonely in a residence on these estates, which are so entirely shut out of the world. Not so much for the proprietors themselves who are occupied in the care of their interests, but for the female part of the family. We left this hospitable mansion about four o'clock, rested and refreshed, the proprietor giving Kay a horse of his instead of her own which was tired. The sun was still powerful when we and our train remounted, but the evening had become delightfully poor by the time we had reached the beautiful village of San Francisco de Tecalá. Lying amongst wooded hills, its white houses gleaming out from amidst the orange trees, with a small river crossed by bridges running through it. Many of the houses were tolerably large and well built. It was a fed day and the musical bells ringing merrily. The people were clean and well dressed, and were assembled in crowds, in an enclosure, looking at a bullfight, which must be hot work in this climate, both for man and beast. But when the moon rose serenely and without a cloud, and a soft breeze fragrant with orange blossom, blew gently over the trees, I felt as if we might have rode on forever, without fatigue and in a state of the most perfect enjoyment. It were hard to say whether the first soft breath of morning, or the languishing and yet more fragrant airs of evening were most enchanting. Sometimes we passed through a village of scattered Indian huts, with little fires of sticks lighted in their courts glowing on the bronze faces of the women and children. And at the sound of our horses hooves, a chorus of dogs yelping with most discordant fury, would give us loud notice of their total disapprobation of all night travelers. Sometimes a decided smell of boiled sugar was mingled, with a fragrance of the orange blossom and jasmine reminding us of those happy days of yore, when the housekeeper in all her glory was engaged in making her annual stock of jellies and jams. Once we were obliged to dismount that our horses might make an ugly leap over a great ditch guarded by thorny bushes and amongst trees where the moon gave us no light. About ten o'clock symptoms of weariness began to break out amongst us. Spite of moonbeams and orange buds went down in a valley we saw the sugar fires of Kokoyodla, the hacienda to which we trusted for our next place of shelter, darting out their fierce red tongues amongst the trees. We knocked for admittance at the great gate, and it was some time before the people within would undo the fastenings which they did with great caution, and after carefully reconnoitering us, afterwards giving for excuse that a party of thirty robbers had passed by the night before, and that they thought we might have been some of these night errands. We sent in our credentials to the proprietor and old gentleman married to a young wife who, living on the road to the cave, is by no means pleased at his house being turned into a posada for all and sundry, and complained bitterly of a part of Englishmen who had passed by some time before, and the only Spanish word they could say was vater, by which they meant agua, caramba. However, he was very hospitable to us, and pressed us to remain there the following day, and rest ourselves and our horses after our fourteen leagues march, previous to going on to the cave. A very good supper and a very sound sleep were refreshing, and the whole of the next day we spent in wandering about or sitting lazily amongst the magnificent orange trees and cocos of this fine hacienda. Here the orange trees are the loftiest we had yet seen, long ranges of noble trees loaded with fruit and flowers. At the back of the house is a small grove of cocos, and a clear running stream passing through beautiful flowers and refreshing everything in its course. Indeed, all through tierra caliente except on the barren hills, there is a profusion of the most delicious water, here at once a necessity and a luxury. These sugar estates are under high cultivation, the crops abundant, the water always more than sufficient, both for the purposes of irrigation and for machinery, which A considers equal to anything he has seen in Jamaica. They produce annually from thirty to fifty thousand adobas of sugar. The laborers are free Indians and are paid from two and a half to six and a half ghayals per day. I believe that about one hundred and fifty are sufficient for working on a large estate. Bountiful nature, walking on the traces of civil war, fills up the ravages caused by sanguinary revolutions, and these estates in the valley of Cuernavaca, which have so frequently been theatres of bloodshed and have so often changed proprietors, remaining themselves as fertile and productive as ever. In the evening we visited the Trapiche, as they call the sugarworks, the sugar boilers, warehouses, storerooms, and engines. The heat is so intense among these great boilers that we could not endure it for more than a few minutes and pity it the men who have to spend their lives in this work. They make panoja on this estate, cakes of course, sugar which the common people prefer to the refined sugar. Just as we were preparing to retire for the night, an animal on the wall attracted our attention, close by Kaye's bed, and, gentle reader, it was a scorpion. We gave a simultaneous cry which brought Sanyord Blanc into the room who laughed at our fears and killed our foe, when, lo, just as our fright had passed away, another, a yellowish-coloured venomous-looking creature appeared stealing along the wall. The lady of the house came this time and ordered the room and the beds to be searched. No more could be discovered, but it was difficult to sleep in peace after such an apparition. At three the next morning we rose and set off by moon and starlight for the cave. The morning was lovely as usual and quite cool. We passed a great deal of barren and hilly road till we reached some plains, where we had a delightful gallop and arrived early at a small rancho, or farmhouse, where we were to procure guides for the cave. Here we added four Indians and the master of the house, Benito, to our party, which was afterwards increased by numbers of men and boys till we formed a perfect regiment. This little rancho with its small garden was very clean and neat. The woman of the house told us she had seen no lady since an English minister had slept there two nights. We concluded that this must have been Mrs. Ashburnham who spent two days in exploring the cave. We continued our ride over loose stones and dry rocky hills where, where the horses not surefooted and used to climb, the riders' necks would no doubt suffer. Within about a quarter of a mile of the cave after leaving on our right the pretty village of Quadlamilpas, we found ourselves in a place which I consider much more dangerous than even the barancas near Miakatlán, a narrow path overhanging a steep precipice and bordering a perpendicular hill with just room for the horses feet, affording the comfortable assurance that one false step would precipitate you to the bottom. I confessed to having held my breath as one by one and step by step, no one looking to the right or the left, our gowns occasionally catching on a bush, with our whole train we wound slowly down this narrow descent, arrived near the mouth of the cave with dismounted and climbed our way among stones and gravel to the great mountain opening. But an account of the cave itself must be reserved till our return to Atlaca-Mulco. End of letter the 32nd. Letter the 33rd of Life in Mexico. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Life in Mexico by Frances Calderón de la Barca. Letter the 33rd. Cave of Cacahuamilpa. Superstition. Long-bearded goat. Portal. Vestibule. Fantastic forms. Breakfast. Pine torches. Noble hall. Stallocytes and stalagmites. Egyptian pyramids. Double gallery. Wonderful formations. Corridor. Frozen landscape. Amphitheater. World in chaos. Skeleton. Wax lights. Hall of angels. Return. Distant light. Indian Alcalde. Quadlamilpas. Rancho. Return to Cocoyodla. Chapel. Miacatlán. Eclipse of the Moon. Benighted Travellers. Indian Village. El Puente. Return to Atlaca-Mulco. Atlaca-Mulco 7th. The cave of Cacahuamilpa, whose actual wonders equal the fable descriptions of the palaces of Gini, was, until lately known to the Indians alone, or if the Spaniards formerly knew anything about it, its existence was forgotten amongst them. But although in former days it may have been used as a place of worship, a superstitious fear prevented the more modern Indians from exploring its shining recesses. For here it was firmly believed the evil spirit had his dwelling and in the form of a goat, with long beard and horns, guarded the entrance of the cave. The few who ventured there and beheld this apparition brought back strange tales to their credulous companions, and even the neighborhood of the enchanted cave was avoided, especially at nightfall. The chain of mountains into whose bosom it leads is bleak and bare, but the ravine below is refreshed by a rapid stream that forms small waterfalls as it tumbles over the rocks and is bordered by green and flowering trees. Amongst these is one with a smooth satin-like bark of a pale golden color whose roots have something snakeish and witch-like in their appearance, intertwining with each other, grappling as it were with a hard rock and stretching out to the most extraordinary distance. We arrived at the entrance of the cave, a superb portal, upwards of seventy feet high, and one hundred and fifty wide according to the computation of a learned traveler, the rocks which support the great arch so symmetrically disposed as to resemble a work of art. The sun was already high in the heavens, shining with intense brightness on the wild scenery that surrounded us. The rocks' entries and rushing waters, a sensation of awe came over us as we stood at the mouth of the cave and turning from day to night, strained our eyes to look down a deep descent into a gigantic vaulted hall, faintly lighted by the red embers of a fire which the Indians had kindled near the entrance. We made our way down a declivity of, it may be, one hundred and fifty feet, surrounded by blocks of stone and rock, and remain lost in astonishment at finding ourselves in these gloomy subterranean palace surrounded by the most extraordinary, gigantic and mysterious forms which it is scarcely possible to believe are the fantastic productions of the water which constantly trickles from the roof. I was shocked to confess it, I would prefer passing it over, but we had tasted nothing that morning and we had rode for eight hours and were dying of hunger. Moreover we travelled with a cook, a very tolerable native artist, but without sentiment, his heart and his stew pan and he, without the least compunction, had begun his frying and broiling operations in what seemed the very vestibule of Pharaoh's palace. Our own mausoles and our Indian Guides were assisting its operations with the utmost zeal, and in a few minutes some sitting round the fire and others upon broken pyramids, we refreshed ourselves with fried chicken, bread, and hard eggs before proceeding farther on our exploring expedition. Unromantic as this proceeding was, we looked, Indians and all rather awful with no other light than the rudy glare of the fire flickering upon the strange gigantic forms in that vast labyrinth, and as to what we felt our valor and strength of mind were increased sevenfold. Twenty-four huge pine torches were then lighted, each man carrying one. To Kay and me were given lighted wax candles, in case by accident any one should go astray from his companions, and lose his way as would too certainly happen, in the different windings and galleries and compartments of the cave, and be alone in the darkness. We walked on in awe and wonder, the Guides lighting up the sides of the cavern with their torches. Unfortunately it is indescribable, as in the fantastic forms of the clouds everyone sees some different creation of his fancy in these stupendous masses. It is said that the first, Sala, for travelers have pretended to divide it into halls, and a very little imagination may do so, is about two hundred feet long, one hundred and seventy wide, and one hundred and fifteen height, a noble apartment. The walls are shaded with different colors of green and orange, great sheets of stylocytes, hang from the roof and white phantoms, palm trees, lofty pillars, pyramids, porches, and a thousand other illusions, surround us on all sides. One figure concerning which all agree is a long-haired goat, the evil one in that form, but someone has broken the head, perhaps to show the powerlessness of the enchanted garden of the cave. Some say that there are no living animals here, but there is no doubt that there are bats. And an exploring party who passed the night here not only heard the hissing of the rattlesnake, but were startled by the apparition of a fierce leopard, whose loud roaring were echoed amongst the vaults, and who, after gazing at them by the light of the torches, stalked majestically back into the darkness. We passed on to the second Sala, collecting as we went fragments of the shining stones our awe and astonishment increasing at every step. Sometimes was seemed to be in a subterranean Egyptian temple. The architecture was decidedly Egyptian, and the strange forms of the animals resembled those of the uncouth Egyptian idols, which together with the pyramids and obelisks made me think that perhaps that ancient people took the idea of their architecture and many of their strange shapes from some natural cave of this description, just as nature herself suggested the idea of the beautiful Corinthian pillar. Again we seemed to enter a tract of country which had been petrified. Fountains of congealed water, trees hung with frozen moss, pillars covered with gigantic acanthus leaves, pyramids of ninety feet high losing their lofty heads in the darkness of the vault, and looking like works of the pre-adamites, yet no being but he who inhabits eternity could have created them. This second hall as lofty as the other may be nearly four hundred feet in length. We then passed into a sort of double gallery separated by enormous pyramidal formations, stalagmites those which are formed by water dropping on the earth. The ground was damp and occasional great drops trickled on our heads from the vaults above. Here Gothic shrines, odd figures, some that look like mummies, others like old men with long beards appalled, us like figures that we've seen some while dream. These are intermingled with pyramids, obelisks, baths that seem made of the purest alabaster, etc. A number of small round balls, petrifications of a dead white lie about here forming little hollows in the ground. Here the cave is very wide, about two hundred feet, it is said. When we left this double gallery we came to another vast corridor, supported by lofty pillars covered with creeping plants, but especially with a row of the most gigantic cauliflower, each leaf delicately chiseled and looking like a fitting food for the colossal dwellers of the cavern. But to attempt anything like a regular description is out of the question. We gave ourselves up to admiration as our torches flashed upon the masses of rock, the hills crowned with pyramids, the conchill torrents that seemed to belong to winter at the north pole, and the lofty dark columns that bring us back to the pure skies of Greece. But amongst all these curious accidents produced by water, none is more curiously exquisite than an amphitheater with regular benches, surmounted by a great organ whose pipes, when struck, give forth a deep sound. It is really difficult not to believe that some gigantic race once amused themselves in these petrified solitudes or that we have not invaded the sanctuary of some mysterious and superhuman beings. It is said that this cavern has been explored for four leagues and yet that no exit has been discovered. As for us I do not know how far we went, our guide said a league. It seemed impossible to think of time when we looked at these great masses, formed drop by drop, slowly and rarely and at distant intervals falling, and looked back upon the ages that must have elapsed since these gigantic formations began. At length on account of the loose stones of the water and the masses of crystal rock that we had to climb over, our guide strongly recommended us to return. It was difficult to turn away our eyes from the great unformed masses that now seemed to feel the cave as far as the eye could reach. It looked like the world in chaos, nature's vast workshop from which she drew the materials which her hand was to reduce to form and order. We retraced our steps slowly and lingeringly through these subterranean palaces, feeling that one day was not nearly sufficient to explore them, yet thankful that we had not left the country without seeing them. The skeleton of a man was discovered here by some travellers lying on his side, the head nearly covered with crystallization. He had probably entered these labyrinths alone, either from rash curiosity or to escape from pursuit, lost his way and perished from hunger. Indeed, to find the way back to the entrance of the cave is nearly impossible without some clue to guide the steps amongst these winding galleries, halls and issues and entries and divided corridors. Though there are some objects so striking that they may immediately be recognised, such as the amphitheater for instance, there is a monotony even in the variety, and I can imagine the unfortunate man wandering amongst obelisks and pyramids and alabaster baths and Grecian columns, amongst frozen torrents that could not assuage his thirst, and trees with marble fruit and foliage and crystal vegetables that mocked his hunger, and pale phantoms with long hair and figures and shrouds that could not relieve his distress, and then his cries for help, where the voice gives out an echo as if all the pale dwellers in the cave answered in mockery, and then his torch becoming extinguished, and he lying down exhausted and in despair, near some inhospitable marble porch to die. As we went along our guides had climbed up and placed wax candles on the top of all the highest points, so that their pale glimmering light pointed out the way to us on our return. The Indians begged they might be left there on account of the blessed souls in purgatory which was done. As we returned we saw one figure we had not observed before, which looked something like a woman mounted on an enormous goat. To one hall on account of its beauty some travelers have given the name of the Hall of Angels. It is said that, by observation, the height of the stalagmites might determine the age of their formation, but where is the enterprising geologist who would shut himself up in these crystal solitudes sufficiently long for correct observation? I never saw or could have imagined so beautiful an effect as that of the daylight in the distance, entering by the mouth of the cave such a faint misty blue contrasted with the fierce red light of the torches and broken by the pillars through which its pale rays struggled. It looked so pure and holy that it seemed like the light from an angel's wings at the portals of the Citadolente. What would that poor traveller have given to have seen its friendly rays? After climbing out and leaving the damn cool subterraneous air the atmosphere felt dry and warm as we sat down to rest at the mouth of the cavern surrounded by our Indian torch-bearers. Truly nature is no coquette. She adorns herself with greater riches in the darkest mountain cave than on the highest mountaintop. We were sitting in thoughtful silence ourselves, Indians and all in a circle when we saw, stomping down the hill in great haste and apparently in great wrath, an Indian alcalde with a thick staff in his hand at whose approach the Indians looked awestruck. He carried in his brown hand a large letter on which was written in great type, al señor dominante de esta caravana de gente, to the commander of this caravan of people. This missive set forth at the justice of peace of the city of Quadla Amilpas begged to know by what right, by whose authority and with what intentions we had entered this cave without permission from the government, and desired the señor dominante to appear forthwith before the said justice for contempt of his authority. The spelling of the letter was too amusing. The Indians looked very much alarmed, and when they saw us laugh, still more astonished. C. N. wrote with a pencil in answer to the summons that he was a Spanish minister and wished good day to the alcalde, who plotted up the hill again very ill-pleased. We now took leave of this prodigious subterranean palace and again put ourselves in route. Once more we wound our way around the brink of the precipice, and this time it was more dangerous for us than before, for we rode on the side next to it, our gowns overhanging the brink, and if caught by a branch there, might have been dragged over. Our two guides afterwards said that if alone they would have dismounted, but that as the ladies said nothing they did not like to propose it. Some day, no doubt, this cave will become a show-place, and measures will be taken to render the approach to it less dangerous, but as yet one of its charms consists in its being unhacked need. For long after its recollection rests upon the mind like a marble dream, but like Niagara it cannot be described, perhaps even it is more difficult to give an idea of this underground creation than of the emperor of cataracts, for there is nothing with which the cave can be compared. Meanwhile we had rather a disagreeable ride in all the force of the sun's last rays back to the rancho. No one spoke. All our thoughts were wandering amongst marble palaces, and uncouth gigantic half-human forms. But our attention was again attracted by the sudden reappearance of our friend, the Alcalde on the brow of the hill looking considerably indignant. He came with a fresh summons from the judge of Cuadla, Amilpas, which lay white and glittering in the valley below. Sien endeavored gravely to explain to him that the persons of ambassadors were not subject to such laws, which was Greek and Hebrew to him of the Bronze countenance. If it were a consul indeed there might be something in that. At last our guide, the ranchero, promised to call upon the judge in the evening and explain the matter to his satisfaction, and again our Alcalde departed upon his bootless errand, bootless in every sense as he stalked down the hill with his bare bronze supporters. As we passed along a parcel of soldiers in the village were assembled in haste, who struck up an imposing military air to give us some idea of their importance. Politically speaking, Cuadla, Amilpas has been the theatre of important events. It was there that the curate Morello shot himself up with a troop of insurgents, until the place being besieged by the Spaniards under Calleja, and the party of Morello's driven to extremity for want of food, he secretly abandoned his position drawing off his forces in the night. When we arrived at the rancho we found that a message had come from the judge prohibiting Don Benito from accompanying strangers to the cave in future, which would be hard upon the old man who makes a little money by occasionally guiding strangers there. C.N. has therefore written on the subject to the prefect of the department. In the cool of the evening we had a delightful ride to Cocoyotla. The air was soft and fragrant, the bells of the villages were ringing amongst the trees, for every village, however poor, has at least one fine church, and all the bells in Mexico, whether in the city or in the villages, have a mellow and musical sound, owing it is said to the quantity of silver that enters into their composition. It was late when we arrived at Cocoyotla, but we did not go to rest without visiting the beautiful chapel, which we had omitted to do, on our last visit. It is very rich in gilding and ornaments, very large and in good taste. We subbed and threw ourselves down to rest for a few hours and set off again at three o'clock by the light of a full moon. Our greatest difficulty in these hurried marches is to get our things in and out of apportmentos and dress in time in the dark. No looking glasses, of course, we arrange our hair by our imagination. Everything gets broken, as you may suppose, the mules that carry our trunks cantering up and down the hills to keep up with us in most unequal measure. The moon was still high, though pale when the sun rose, like a youthful monarchy patient to take the reins from the hands of a mild and dying queen. We had a delightful gallop and soon left the fires of Cocoyotla far behind us. After riding six leagues, we arrived at six in the morning at the house of the Pérez Palacios. We should have gone further while it was cool, but their hospitality added to a severe fit of toothache which had attacked Sien induced us to remain till four o'clock, during which time we improved our acquaintance with the family. How strange and even melancholy are those glimpses which travelers have of persons whom they will probably never meet again, with whom they form an intimacy which owing to peculiar circumstances seems very like friendship much nearer, it certainly, than many a long acquaintance ship which we form in great cities, and where the parties go on knowing each other from year to year and never exchanging more than a mere occasional and external civility. It was four o'clock when we left Miakatlán and we rode hard and fast till it grew nearly dark, for our intention was to return to our headquarters at Lacomulco that night, and we had a long journey before us especially as it was decided that we should by no means attempt to recross the barancas by night which should have been too dangerous, besides an eclipse of the moon was predicted, and in fact as we were riding across the fields she appeared above the horizon half in shadow a curious and beautiful spectacle. But we should have been thankful for her entire beams for after riding for hours we discovered that we had lost our way and were still that there were no hopes of our finding it. Not a hut was in sight, darkness coming on, nothing but great plains and mountains to be distinguished, and nothing to be heard but bulls roaring round us. We went on trusting to chance, and where chance would have led us it is hard to say, but by good fortune our advanced guards stumbled over to Indians, a man and a boy who agreed to guide us to their own village but nowhere else. After following them along in weary way all going at a pretty brisk trot, the barking of hundreds of dogs announced an Indian village, and by the faint light they could just distinguish the cane huts snugly seated amongst bananas and with little enclosed gardens before each. Our cavalcade drew up before a hut, a sort of tavern or spirit shop where an old half-naked hag, the bow-ideal of a witch, was distributing fire-water to the Indians, most of whom were already drunk. We got off our horses and threw ourselves down on the ground, too tired to care what they were doing, and by some means a cup of bad chocolate was procured for us. We found that we had entirely lost our way, and it was therefore agreed, that instead of attempting to reach at Lake Amoco that night we should ride to the village of El Puente, where our conductors knew a Spanish family of bachelor brothers who would be glad to harbor us for the remainder of the night. We then remounted and set off somewhat refreshed by our rest and by the bad chocolate. It was late at night when we entered El Puente after having crossed in pitch darkness a river so deep that the horses were nearly carried off their feet, yet they were dancing in one place, playing cards in the ground in another, dogs were barking as usual and candles lighted in the Indian huts. We were very well received by the Spaniards who gave us supper and made us take their room, all the rest of the party sleeping upon mattresses placed on the floor of a large empty apartment. We slept a few hours, very soundly, rose before daylight, wakened the others who, lying on the ground, rolled up in their sarapes, seemed to be sleeping for a wager, and remounted our horses not sorry at the prospect of a day's rest at La Camulco. It was dark when we set off, but the sun had risen and had lighted up the bright green fields of sugarcane and the beautiful coffee plantations that look like flowering myrtles. By the time we reached La Sienda of Señor Neri del Barrio, whose family is amongst the most distinguished of the old Spanish Mexican stock. We stopped to take a tumbler of milk fresh from the cow, declined an invitation to go in as we were anxious to finish our journey while it was cool, and after a hard ride galloped into the courtyard of La Camulco which seemed like returning home. We spent a pleasant idle day lying down and reading while the sun was high, and in the evening sauntering about under the orange trees, we concluded with a hot bath. Seventh. Before continuing our journey we determined to spend one more day here which was fortunate, as we received a large packet of letters from home forwarded to this place, and we have been reading them, stretched under the shade of a natural bower formed by orange boughs near a clear cold tank of water in the garden. Tomorrow we shall set off betimes for the hacienda of Cocoyoc, the property of Don Juan Goriva with whom Sien was acquainted in Mexico. After visiting that and some other of the principal estates we shall continue our ride to Puebla, and as we shall pass a few days there hope to have leisure to ride again from that city. End of Letter the Thirty-Third. Letter the Thirty-Fourth of Life in Mexico. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org. Life in Mexico by Francis Calderon de la Barca. Letter the Thirty-Fourth. Ride by starlight, fear of robbers, tropical wildflowers, stout escort, hottepec, hacienda of Cocoyoc, of fire, three thousand orange trees, coffee mills, etc., variety of tropical fruits, prodigality of nature, cazazano, celebrated reservoir, ride to Santa Clara, a philosopher, a scorpion, leave Santa Clara, dangerous baranca, cologne, agreeable house, civil administrador, San Nicolas, solitude, Franciscan friar, rainy morning, pink turbine, arrival at Alisco. Cyprus, Department of Puebla, Volcanoes, Donia Marina, versus Popocat de Petlo, Cholula, Great Pyramid, arrival at Puebla. On the 9th of February we took leave of Atlaca-Mulco and the Hospitable Administrator, and our party being diminished by the absence of Don Pedro, who was obliged to go to Mexico, we set off as usual by starlight, being warned of various bad bits on the road where the ladies at least were advised to dismount. The country was wild and pretty, mountainous and stony. When the light came in we separated and galloped about in all directions. The air was cool and laden with sweetness. We came, however, to a pretty lane where those of our escort who were in front stopped, and those who were behind rode up and begged us to keep close together, as for many leagues the country was haunted by robbers. Guns and pistols being looked to, we rode on in sirried ranks, expecting every moment to hear a bullet wheeze over our heads. Here were the most beautiful wild flowers we have yet seen, some purple, white, and rose-colour in one blossom, probably the flower called Ocelo hotkittle, or Viper's head, others bright scarlet, others red, with white and yellow stripes, and with an Indian name signifying the tiger's flower. Some had rose-coloured blossoms, others were of the purest white. We came at last to a road over a mountain, about as bad as anything we had yet seen. Our train of horses and mules and men in their mehican dresses looked very picturesque winding up and down these steep crags, and here again forgetful of robbers, each one wandered according to his own fancy, some riding forward and others lingering behind to pull branches of these beautiful wild blossoms. The horse's heads were covered with flowers of every colour, so that they looked like victims adorned for sacrifice. C. N. indulged his botanical and geological propensities, occasionally to the great detriment of his companions, as we were anxious to arrive at some resting place before the sun became insupportable. As for the robbers, these gentlemen who always keep a sharp lookout and rarely endanger their precious persons without some sufficient motive, and who, moreover, seem to have some magical power of seeing through stone walls and into portmanteaus, were no doubt aware that our luggage would neither have replenished their own nor their lady's wardrobes, and calculated that people who travel for pleasure are not likely to carry any great quantity of superfluous coin. Besides this, they are much more afraid of these honest stout, well-armed farm servants who are a fine race of men, than even soldiers. We arrived about six o'clock at the village of Hatepik, remarkable for its fine old church and lofty trees, especially for one magnificent wide-spreading ash tree in the churchyard. There were also many of those pretty trees with a silvery bark, which always looked as if the moon were shining on them. The road began to improve, but the sun became very oppressive about nine o'clock when we arrived at a pretty village which had a large church and a venta, tavern, where we stopped to refresh ourselves with water and some very well-baked small cakes. The village was so pretty that we had some thoughts of remaining there till the evening, but as Don Juan assured us that one hour's good gallop would carry us to Kokoyok, the hacienda of Don Juan Gorivar, we determined to continue. We had a dreadful ride in the hot sun till we arrived at a pretty Indian village on the estate, and shortly after entered the courtyard of the great hacienda of Kokoyok, where we were most hospitably welcomed by the proprietor and his family. We were very tired owing to the extreme heat and white with dust, a fresh toilet, cold water and hours' rest, and an excellent breakfast did wonders for us. Soon after our arrival the sugar house, or rather the cane rubbish, took fire, and the great bell swung heavily to and fro, summoning the workmen to assist in getting it under. It was not extinguished for some time, and the building is so near the house that the family were a little alarmed. We stood on the balcony which commands a beautiful view of Popokatapetl watching the blaze. After a hard battle between fire and water, water carried the day. In the evening we drove to the orange grove, where three thousand lofty trees are ranged in avenues, literally bending under the weight of their golden fruit in snowy blossom. I never saw a more beautiful sight. Each tree is perfect and lofty as a forest tree. The ground under their broad shadows is strewed with thousands of oranges dropping in their ripeness and covered with white fragrant blossoms. The place is lovely, and everywhere traversed by streams of the purest water. We ate a disgraceful number of oranges, limes, kvayavas, and all manner of fruits, and even tasted the sweet beans of the coffee plants. We spent the next morning in visiting the coffee mills, the great brandy works, sugar houses, etc., all which are in the highest order, and in strolling through the orange groves and admiring the curious and beautiful flowers, and walking among orchards of loaded fruit trees, the kalabash, papal, mango, tamarind, citron, also mammies, cherimoyas, custard apples, and all the family of the zapotes, white, black, yellow, and chico, coyotes, kokos, kakahuates, aguacates, etc., etc., etc., a list without an end. Besides, there are an infinity of trees covered with the brightest blossoms, one with large scarlet flowers, most gorgeous in their coloring, and one whose blossoms are so like large pink silk tassels that if hung to the cushions of a sofa, you could not discover them to be flowers. What prodigality of nature in these regions? With what a lavish hand she flings beauty and luxury to her tropical children? In the evening we drove to Casasano, an hacienda about three leagues from Kokoyok, and passed by several other fine estates, amongst others the hacienda of Calderón. Casasano is an immense old house, very dull looking, the road to which lies through a fine park, for cattle dotted with great old trees, but of which the grass is very much burnt up. Each hacienda has a large chapel attached to it, at which all the workmen and villagers in the environs attend mass, a padre coming from a distance on Sundays and fed days. Frequently there is one attached to the establishment. We went to see the celebrated water tank of Casasano, the largest and most beautiful reservoir in this part of the country. The water so pure that though upwards of 30 feet deep, every blade of grass at the bottom is visible. Even a pin dropped upon the stones below is seen shining quite distinctly. A stone wall level with water 30 feet high encloses it, on which I ventured to walk all around the tank, which is of an oval form, with the assistance of our host going one by one. A fall would be sufficiently awkward, involving drowning on one side and breaking your neck on the other. The water is beautiful, a perfect mirror with long green feathery plants at the bottom. The next morning we took leave of our friends at three o'clock and set off for Santa Clara, the hacienda of Don Esubio Garcia. Señor Coriva made me a present of a very good horse, and our ride that day was delightful, though the roads led over the most terrible barancas. For nine long leagues we did nothing but ford rivers and climb, steep hills, those who were pretty well mounted beating up the tired cavalry. But during the first hours of our ride the air was so fresh among the hills, that even when the sun was high we suffered little from the heat, and the beautiful and varied views we met at every turn were full of interest. Santa Clara is a striking imposing mass of buildings, beautifully situated at the foot of three bold high rocks with a remarkably handsome church attached to it. The family were from home and the agent was a philosopher, living upon herb tea, quite above the common affairs of life. It is a fine hacienda and very productive but sad and solitary in the extreme, and as Kay and I walked about in the courtyard after supper, where we had listened to frightful stories of robbers and robberies, we felt rather uncomfortably dreary and anxious to change our quarters. We visited the sugar-works which are like all others, the chapel which is very fine, and the shop where they sell spirituals, liquors, and calicoes. The hills looked gray and solemn, the sun sank gloomy behind them, his color a turbid red. So much had been said about robbers that we were not sure how our next day's journey might terminate. The administrator's own servant had turned out to be the captain of a band, whom the robbers from some mysterious motive had murdered a few days before. As we intended to rise before dawn we went to bed early, about nine o'clock, and were just in the act of extinguishing a melancholy-looking candle when we were startled by the sight of an alakran on the wall. A man six feet high came at our call. He looked at the scorpion shook his head and ran out. He came back in a little while with another large man, he with a great shoe in his hand and his friend with a long pole. While they were both hesitating how to kill it, Don Juan came in and did the deed. We had a melancholy night after this, afraid of everything, with a long unsnuffed candle illuminating the darkness of our large and lonely chamber. The next morning, the ninth of February, before sunrise we took our leave in the darkness of Santa Clara and the philosopher. The morning wonderful to relate was windy and almost cold. The roads were frightful, and we hailed the first gray streak that appeared in the eastern sky announcing the dawn, which might enable us, at least, to see our perils. Fortunately it was bright daylight when we found ourselves crossing, a baranka, so dangerous that after following for some time the precipitous course of the mountain path, we thought it advisable to get off our horses who were pawing the slippery rock without being able to find any rest for the soles of their feet. We had a good deal of difficulty in getting along ourselves on foot among the loose sharp stones, and the horses between sliding and stumbling were a long while in accomplishing the descent. After climbing up the baranka, one of them ran off along the edge of the cliff as if he were determined to cut the whole concern, and we wasted some time in catching him. It was the afternoon when we rode through the lanes of a large Indian village, and shortly after arrived at Colón, and ascienda belonging to Don Antonio Oria. He was from home but a good reception of the honest administrator, the nice, clean, cheerful house with its pretty painted chairs, good beds, the excellent breakfasts and dinners, and the goodwill visible in the whole establishment delighted us very much, and decided us to pitch our tent here for a day or two. Some Spaniards hearing of Sien's arrival rode over from a distance to see him and dined with us. There was a capital housekeeper, famous for excellent cakes and preserves. We had also the refreshment of a warm bath and felt ourselves as much at home as if we had been in our own house. The next morning we rode through the great sugarcane fields to the hacienda of San Nicolás, one of the finest estates in the Republic, eighteen leagues long and five wide, belonging to Senor Zamora in the right of his wife. It is a productive place but a singularly dreary residence. We walked out to see all the works which are on a great scale and breakfasted with a proprietor, who was there alone. We amused ourselves by seeing the workmen receive their weekly pay, this being Saturday, and at the mountains of copper piled up on tables in front of the house. There is a feeling of vastness, of solitude and of dreariness in some of these great haciendas which is oppressive, especially about noon when everything is still, and there is no sound except the incessant buzz of myriads of insects. I can imagine it like what the world must have been before man was created. Colon, which is not so large as San Nicolás, has a greater air of life about it, and in fact we liked it so well that, as blank observed, we seemed inclined to consider it not as a colon but a full stop. You must not expect more vivacious puns in Tierra Caliente. We rode back from San Nicolás in the afternoon accompanied by the proprietor, and had some thoughts of going to Matamoras in the evening to see the barber of Seville, performed by a strolling company in the open air under a tree, admittance twenty-five cents. However, we ended by remaining where we were, and spent the evening and walking about, through the village surrounded by barking dogs, the greatest nuisance in these places, and pulling wild flowers, and gathering castor-oil-nuts from the trees. A begging Franciscan friar from the convent of San Fernando arrived for his yearly supply of sugar which he begs from the different haciendas for his convent, a tribute which he has never refused. We left our hospitable entertainer the next morning with the addition of sundry baskets of cake and fruit from the housekeeper. As we were setting off, I asked the administrador if there were any barancas on this road. No, said he, but I have sent a basketful with one of the boys as they are very refreshing. I made no remark concluding that I should find out his meaning in the course of the journey, but keeping a sharp lookout on the mysterious mozo who was added to our train. When the light became stronger, I perceived that he carried, under his sarape, a large basket of fine naranjas, oranges which no doubt the honest administrador thought I was inquiring after. It rained when we left Colón, a thick misty drizzle, and the difference of the temperature gave us notice that we were passing out of Tierra Caliente. The road was so straight and uninteresting, though the surrounding country was fertile, that a few barancas would really have been enlivening. At Colón we took leave of our conductors, Don Juan, who returned to Atlaca Molco, and got a new director of our forces, a handsome man, Don Francisco, who had been a Spanish soldier. We had an uncomfortable ride in a high wind and hard rain, the roads good, but devoid of interest, so that we were glad when we learned that Atlisco, a town where we were to pass the night, was not far off. Within a mile or two of the city we were met by a tall man on horseback with a pink turban and a wild swarthy face, who looked like an abencerage and who came with the compliments of his master, a Spanish gentleman, to say that a house had been prepared for us in the town. Atlisco is a large town with a high mountain behind it, crowned by a white chapel, a magnificent church at the base, the whole city full of fine churches and convents, with a plaza and many good houses. The numerous pipes pointed all along from the roofs have a very threatening and warlike effect. One seems to ride up the principal street under a strong fire. We found that Don Fernando Blanc, pink turban's master, not considering his own house good enough, had on hearing of our expected arrival hired another and furnished part of it for us. This is the sort of wholesale hospitality one meets within this country. Our room looked out upon an old Carmelite monastery, where C.N., having a recommendation to the prior, paid a visit and found one or two good paintings. Here also we saw the famous Cyprus mentioned by Humboldt, which is 73 feet in circumference. The next morning we sat out with an escort of seven mozos, headed by Don Francisco and all well armed, for the road from Atlisco to Puebla is the robber's highway par excellence. This valley of Atlisco, as indeed the whole department of Puebla, is noted for its fertility and its abundant crops of mage, wheat, maize, frioles, carpanzos, barley and other vegetables, as well as for the fineness of its fruits, its cherimoyas, etc. There is a Spanish proverb which says, Si amorar en indias fueres, que sea dude los volcanes vieres. If you go to live in the indias, let it be within sight of the volcanoes, for it appears that all the lands surrounding the different volcanoes are fertile and enjoy a pleasant climate. The great cordilleras of Anahuac cross this territory and amongst these are the mountain of the Malintchi, Ecstakikihuatl, Popokatapetl and the peak of Orisava. The Malintchi, a corruption by the Spaniards of the Indian name Malintzin, signifying Donia Maria or Marina, is supposed to be called after Cortes's Indian Egeria, the first Christian woman of the Mehican Empire. Though given to Cortes by the Tabaskan Indians, it seems clear that she was of noble birth and that her father was the Lord of many cities. It is pretended that she fell into a tributary situation through the treachery of her mother, who remarried after the death of her first husband, and who bestowing all her affection in the son-born of the second marriage determined in concert with her husband that all their wealth should pass to him. It happened in furtherance of their views that the daughter of one of their slaves died, upon which they gave out that they had lost their own daughter, affected to mourn for her, and at the same time privately sold her after the fashion of Joseph's brethren to some merchants of Quicalanco, who in their turn disposed of her to their neighbors the Tabaskans who presented her to Cortes. That she was beautiful and of great talent versed in different dialects, the devoted friend of the Spaniards, and serving as their interpreter in their negotiations with the various Indian tribes there seems no doubt. She accompanied Cortes in all his expeditions. He followed her advice, and in the whole history of the conquest, Donia Marina, the name given to the beautiful slave at her Christian baptism, played an important part. Her son, Martin Cortes, a knight of the order of Santiago, was put to the torture in the time of Philip II, on some unfounded suspicion of rebellion. It is said that when Cortes, accompanied by Donia Marina, went to Honduras, she met her guilty relatives, who bathed in tears through themselves at her feet, fearful lest she might avenge herself of their cruel treatment, but that she calmed their fears and received them with much kindness. The name of her birthplace was Pai Nala, a village in the province of Quazaqualco. After the conquest, she was married to a Spaniard named Juan de Jaramillo. But I have wandered a long way from the Sierra Malinche. The two great volcanoes, but especially Popocate Petl, the highest mountain in New Spain, seem to follow the traveler like his guardian spirit wherever he goes. Orizava, which forms a boundary between the departments of Puebla and Veracruz, is said to be the most beautiful of mountains on a near approach, as it is the most magnificent at a distance. For while its summit is crowned with snow, its central part is girded by thick forests of cedar and pine, and its base is adorned with woods and sloping fields covered with flocks, and dotted with white ranchos and small scattered villages, forming the most agreeable and varied landscape imaginable. Exta Quiquijual means white woman, Popocate Petl, the mountain that throws out smoke. They are thus celebrated by the poet Heredia. Translation. Eternal snow crowns the majestic heads of Orizava, Popocate Petl, and of Exta Quiquijual the most pure. Never does winter with destructive hand lay waste the fertile fields, where from afar the Indian views them bathed in purple light, and died in gold, reflecting the last rays of the bright sun, which sinking in the west poured forth his flood of golden light, serene, midst ice eternal, and perennial green, and saw all nature warming into life, moved by the gentle radiance of his fires. The morning was really cold, and when we first set out, Popocate Petl was rolled up in a mantle of clouds. The road led us very near him, the wind was very piercing, and Kay was mounted on a curate pony, evidently accustomed to short distances and easy traveling. We had been told that it was muy propio para señora, very much suited to a lady, and economium always passed upon the oldest, most stupid, and most obstinate quadruped, that the haciendas can boast. We overtook and passed a party of cavalry guarding some prisoners whom they were conducting to Puebla. As the sun rose all eyes returned with amazement and admiration to the great volcano. The clouds parted in the middle and rolled off in great volumes, like a curtain withdrawn from a high altar. The snowy top and sides of the mountain appeared shining in the bright sun, like a grand dome of the purest white marble. But it cannot be described. I thought of Sinai, of Moses on the mount, when the glory of the Lord was passing by, of the mountain of the transfiguration, something too intolerably bright and magnificent for mortal eye to look upon and live. We rode slowly, and in speechless wander till the sun, which had crowned the mountain like a glory, rose slowly from its radiant brow, and we were reminded that it was time to ride forwards. We were not far from the ancient city of Coluca, lying on a great plain at a short distance from the mountains, and glittering in the sunbeams as if it still were the city of predilection, as in former days, when it was the sacred city, the Rome of Anahuaq. It is still a large town, with a spacious square and many churches, and the ruins of its great pyramid still attest, its former grandeur, but of the forty thousand houses and four hundred churches mentioned by Cortes there are no traces. The base of this pyramid, which at a distance looks like a conical mountain, is said by Humboldt to be larger than that of any discovered in the Old Continent, being double that of Geops. It is made of layers of bricks mixed with coats of clay, and contains four stories. In the midst of the principal platform where the Indians worshipped, Quaza Quatl, the god of the air according to some, the Patriarch Noah, and according to others the Apostle St. Thomas, for doctors differ, rises a church dedicated to the Virgin de los Remirios, surrounded by cypresses from which there is one of the most beautiful views in the world. From this pyramid, and it is not the least interesting circumstance connected with it, Humboldt made many of his valuable astronomical observations. The treachery of the people and priests of Chalujla, who after welcoming Cortes and the Spaniards, formed a plan for exterminating them all, which was discovered by Donia Marina, through the medium of a lady of the city, was visited by him with the most signal vengeance. The slaughter was dreadful, the streets recovered with dead bodies, and houses and temples were burnt to the ground. This great temple was afterwards purified by his orders and the standard of the cross solemnly planted in the midst. Chalujla, not being on the direct road to Puebla, is little visited, and as for us our time was now so limited that we were obliged to content ourselves with a mere passing observation of the pyramid and then to hurry forward to Puebla. We entered that city to the number of eighteen persons, eighteen horses and several mules, and passed some people near the gates who were carrying blue-eyed angels to the chosen city, and who nearly let them drop in astonishment on seeing such a cavalcade. We were very cold and felt very tired as we rode into the courtyard of the hotel, yet rather sugaring to think that the remainder of our journey was now to be performed in a diligence. Having brought my story up to civilized life and it being late, I conclude.