 So, get here, this is a commercial application, basically it's triggering out on two blinks on the green, one blink on the, or no blinks on the red, and it's not wanting to come on. What's happening, these collector boxes have got problems with the pressure switches, they've got problems with it plugging up with commensation because shavings, they've got all kinds of issues with this thing. I'll be, uh, cover off and see what the code is. So, the green, slow flash, and the other one off, is, right there, flame sensed without gas, without energize, which would probably mean flame sensor, which is a little odd. Don't have that one very often, so let's take a look inside here and see what's going on. Before I get too far into that, I always like to check the air filter, which, it was pretty dirty. I know what's causing this issue, but that is what's, uh, gotta be taken care of. So, like I said, slow green off on red. Okay, coming into the flame sensor, this is one of their less than promising designs because you can barely get in there, so somebody didn't get that sensor back in there very tight. Let's go ahead and pop this cover and take a look inside here and see how the heat exchanger is. I would say this heat exchanger's been changed, which, in the corrosive environment that it's in right now, probably would not surprise me. Here's the serial number, 5907, so it's a 2007, and it's a G51 Michael Paul 48090, so 90,000 BTU. That cover, I'm not sure if you're gonna see it, the flame sensor's hitting the burners. Okay, so there's our flame sensor. Yeah, it's not really good, is it? Probably should take a peek at the heat exchanger here. It surprisingly doesn't look too bad. I can blow this thing out. Look at that, you got a little bees nest going on there. An exhaust goes on about that way, which then goes up and out through here and way over to there. Alright, let's blow this thing out real quick and then tighten that, well, well then we'll pull the flame sensor out and then we'll clean it. I'm serious, it won't really matter much. Probably one of the best ways to do this is use your right angle tool with your 10 and 1, and you can get down in here like that right there, so that's what we're gonna do to get it out of there. Okay, so you can kind of see, they got pretty aggressive with the sandpaper. You really don't want to get it crazy like that with it. All you're doing is leaving grooves for the crap to set on it, and that's no good. That's where that little wire brush that I use doesn't do that. I can feel the grooves on it, that's crazy. You want to make sure the porcelain's not broke either, we're good on that. So I just tried tightening it up and they stripped that thing completely out. So whoever got in there got in their side to be an idiot, and stripped that completely out. So yeah, the problem is, I don't think you can get a five-sixteenths in there. You might be able to, it's gonna be really, really tight. Actually, it looks like they might have used the screw from one of these other screws and stripped it out that way. So if we steal one of those, it isn't already stripped out, it might actually work. Like I said, I think this heat exchanger has been replaced possibly. May not have been, but it could have been. All right, so luckily the five-sixteenths will fit in there. So we're going to put that in there and that should hold it in place tight. Go ahead and change bits and get it in there. Okay, so now we got the bigger screw in there. She doesn't wiggle. So it's better than what it was. Let's go ahead and give this thing a little bit of power and see how it works. Let's see if we can truer this thing out. Maybe as it holds there. Now I switched over to this light from the Bosch, and I'm not impressed with the battery life on it. It's nowhere near what my Bosch was. The highlight, that'll only be about two hours. There's about four, and there's like ten or not. But that's almost like a dim old flashlight on a not-seeing igniter. So just like I was figuring, it went off on the same code it had before. Green, slow flash. Red is off. Let's make sure we're reading this correctly here. So red or green, DS1, Grayson 2. Slow flashing off. You know we may have this backwards. Green, DS2. Make sure these match up. Sometimes they'll write them wrong. So DS2. DS2 is a slow flash. And the other one's off. So look for off. There's fast. Off, slow flash. Pressure switch opened. Blocked exhaust. Condensate line blocked. Or press switch to close prior to. So gotta love them. See when you look at the 1 versus 2, you'd think left or right. Because this is a furnace that can go up flow down flow and all that. Sometimes you get them backwards. So we did find a problem though by accident as far as the flame sense. So like I said, the one being off and then one on. And you can tell they squeezed a bunch of stuff in here. But so we did find one problem even though that wasn't the main issue. So we got pressure switches, which like I said originally, we had pressure switches with these. So this is a interesting furnace. For the fact that these switches are redundant. 0.85, 0.85. They're on the same position of the box. Why they did it, I don't know. Don't really care. All I know is we had issues with them. So let's go ahead and blow through the containers. Make sure these aren't plugged up because we had issues. With the ports getting plugged up. Sometimes it painted the inside of the box white. Let's look at this one. You'd think positive would be red, but it's not. So let's go ahead and look at these. That one's white. That one's got a little bit of white. So we're going to blow through both of those ports and see how they are. We can also check it with our meter. Usually the issue is they have condensation. That does not want to drain. Nothing on that. It's not the issue on that one. This one here comes down to a dead head. So there you go. Let's blow through those and find out. Okay, so we measured across the switches and took a while to figure it out because they basically looped these in series with one another. So it loops from the one to the other. This one here purple wire goes down here to share a common with the limit there. So this switch is not closing because it wasn't closing. It wasn't letting things loop back through. So we're going to jump out this particular switch and see how it acts. The other switch probably is working okay. What we can do is order two new switches and just let it run off the one for now. But we can't leave it like that. They would jump in it like I'm doing but because the other circuit is keeping it open, it will get from the wires. All right. So let's go ahead and try this again now with the pressure gauge on there. We've got it teed in there so that we're measuring what the switch is measuring. The differential is 0.2. This is ready for 0.85. So on one side we're pulling negative 0.3. The other side we're pulling 0.08. The difference between the two of them is 0.28. So we have something plugging it up. If you remember correctly, the burner down there had a bees nest in it. So there's a good chance it might have a bee hive in here somewhere. So we're going to unhook that pipe over there on the exhaust hopefully. That's the kind of stuff they used to do was they would glue it in there. So there's no good way to take that apart. Let's see how it does. Okay. So the easiest thing to do so we know that our problem is in the pipe or in the draft motor because I heard something pop a second ago. I'm going to hook this back up. I may just go ahead and run my fish tape through this nice long winding. What do we got here? One, two, three, basically four, almost five freaking 90s. So I'm going to hook it back up. I heard something go whoosh like it blew a goober out but I didn't see it come out but that's the case. Very easily could have been a beehive but I didn't see nothing pop out. So I might hook it back up to see what happens. All right, so I hooked it back up and it's better than what it was but it still ain't working so we're going to have to shut it back down and we're going to have to either try to blow through this thing with a the blower or run fish tape through it or something. But unfortunately it's nearly 15 foot up in the air so we'll have to see if we can get that thing undone or push through it and see what's going on. It may be at the very end. I'll have to take a look. Okay as you can see if you go deep in there looks to me like we've had birds or something in there. So we're going to need to probably put a tee on the end of this thing. Normally we never did but I don't see any good way to keep the birds out otherwise. So I started to feed my fish tape in there and I didn't even get past that first 90. I can barely see it but there's something probably dead right there so we're going to go ahead and cut probably right here. Let's see if we can get this thing pulled out of there whatever it is. All right so we got it cut look down there. Looks to me like a bird. So not a real easy way to get it out of there other than just dig it out with pliers. So it's going to have to come out in pieces. Kind of a crappy design the way they did this. This piece is on this side and that piece is on that side. Can't feed one to the other. So probably try blowing through it with the blower thing but it might be better off to suck it out with the vacuum cleaner. All right so let's see if I can get them out of there. They perched on there for me. There's at least two of them. So throw those away. All right so we went ahead and blew that out. I got to go pick up a coupling for that but as you see it's getting ready to run. We can keep that flood together and you can see it's still on. Check the instructions if I can find it. I think I'm just going to put a T on the end of it. Lennox never usually did that but generally you can get away with it. That's how a lot of different manufacturers did it. It wasn't until back in the pulse furnace days that it was an issue with recirculation coming from the air intake to the exhaust but this here looks like we've got it going. I got to go pick up a new filter for it and that coupling real quick. So we've got our new front coat coupling on there so if it ever needs to take it apart again we can just pop that off and we'll be able to get right in there and clean things out if we need to. We've got everything tightened back up in here and here. All the switches are on there. Starting to glow red. We've got a filter we still got to put in there yet and feel like it's running pretty good. So we're good to go on that. So it's been running just fine. I wanted to get a T on the end of that. We didn't have one at the shop. I mean it's ran like this since 07. I'm going to give them the option of doing it since they kind of do plumbing at this particular location. Otherwise we're good and clean. Everything's good to go. Got a clean flame, good flame. Got a new filter in there. So simple as that. Did I screw up a little bit by pre-judging the switches? Yeah because I remember how many issues we had with it. But I would have had to check them immediately in the beginning to make sure that the pressure was actually right. If I would have done that a little sooner it may have saved me a little bit of time. But I also, even though I misread the code at first, still found a problem there with that flame sensor which just goes back to checking all your wires, give them a little wiggle and making sure everything's okay that we don't have any other issues going on. Not just fixing the one problem but going for the humongous picture. So make sure you luck the whole thing over. And making sure that you got all the issues taken care of. If you guys like the video and want some more like it make sure you subscribe, smash that thumbs button. Until next time guys, we'll catch you on the next one. We got those in there. They can easily be removed.