 All right, so we've got a case here that's not working right, and we pop the top and this is what I find. Basically the coil looks a little frozen there. Got a little bit of ice on it, just a little bit. So this is a self-contained, it's not on a rack or nothing. So the compressor is right up on top there, and as you can see it's running right around a 69 degrees area. The other ones are fine and they're running, you know, around the 33, 35, whatever. And that's discharge band temperature there. So we're going to check the defrost clock, put this into defrost and see if it works or what's going on with it and kind of start from there. All right, so we went ahead and checked some of the other condensers up here. They're running right at about 5 defrosts. This one's right at about 4. Went ahead and checked my set points. And when I was checking my clock, it showed negative 6 as my temperature sensor. This is set for 28 degrees with a 4 degree differential. So I'm going to flip my switches there and that's why the clock went blank or the thermostat went blank. I'm waiting to see if it pumps down. So I have a funny feeling my temperature sensor's bad, but if the temperature sensor's bad, it should have shut off since negative 6 is a lot lower than 28. So we are kind of waiting for it to pump down here and see what happens. I'm not real sure exactly. So we'll just keep on investigating. I'm going to go ahead and try out my little magnet do hopper here. It's not spinning, but I've never seen it actually spin. Put on one of these other ones to see if it works. Try it on this one to see what happens. Look at that. Wheels on the bus go round and round. Supposedly you can put this thing on a freaking circulator pump and it'll tell you which way it's spinning. See how that, there we go. Clockwise, counterclockwise. So you have a north and south pole. So it does work, which is nice to know for 18, 19 bucks, which I think is a little crazy. I'll put a link down in the description down below. Got it on Amazon. I'm going to support channel type thing. We've got tools that I use all listed down there. We're back over at this thing and what's weird is you can feel it vibrating. So it definitely is not picking up any type of magnetic field. Thing is though, pressure switch is not shutting it off or something funky is going on. Kind of do a little investigation here. Let's check that suction pressure. I'm going to probably open it back up, cut it back into regular mode. That way I'm not being a negative by chance. It's malfunctioning, which is what it seems like it's doing. All right, so it's pumping. I've got like 200 pounds of head pressure. 12 pounds suction, which you know, the coil is frozen solid. That's not calling. So if this was actually working, why is it not pumping down into a negative? You know, because it's not powered, so it shouldn't be running. We can drive Alvin off the receiver there and see if it does its thing. Because the off pressure, that ends at like 60 and cuts out a few pounds under that. It's just below it. It seems a little out of whack. 404, it just seems a little bit, a little jackery. So, not sure why that's not pulling down. That's kind of odd. It's here. Let's actually do it the easy way. I'll mount this thing down and see if she pumps down and shuts off. Obviously that might need some adjustments on that. Pretty sure. Switch. Well, there's shut off. Interesting. We're checking out the one beside it. It runs pretty high pressure, too, with a little higher differential. I'm assuming the cutout is truly the cutout, not the differential. So, let's put this into a deep cross and see what it does. See if it pumps down, shuts off the fans, and actually stops. Because the one's over there, if not shut off yet, they're still running over there. I found some paperwork, but it's not a true schematic. It's kind of a wiring layout. It's just things only, you know, Oak V, so it's only, you know, 16 years old. Can answer fans still run? You'd think they'd shut that off. You'd think the pan there for the compressor would probably shut off, too, but it don't. It did de-energize the solenoid and killed the clock, but it's still running. Not really impressed. It's probably just timed off deep frost. I'd have to tear it apart to see if there's actual heater elements, but probably there are not. So, we'll put that back the way it was. She's a spin. Yep. Well, we're just going to have to focus on that other one. It seems to me we just got a pump down issue. The compressor never shut off, but why? It's almost like the solenoid didn't work. Okay, so we're going to do one thing at a time. Go ahead and kick that back out of that. The gauge looks like it might be reading a little better. Getting up to 19 there, so that sensor must be in the ice or something. It's got to be in some crappy spot. All right, so checking our pressure switch. 65 for cutting comes out to about a 27 degree evaporator. Looking down in this mangoidid mess. Nothing's really labeled. We've got this little paper sheet here, which didn't do a lot of favors for you. They got an LT switch, so it's at a limit switch, PR switch, pressure switch. It doesn't tell you where it's hooked to, what it goes to. It doesn't show the internal wiring. So this is pretty much about worthless, unless you know where things are going. It doesn't tell me how it's wired, whether or not they would normally shut off the condenser fans, which makes sense. But you can see there we're not up to 65 for pressure, so it's not coming on, obviously. So this thing's just got some issues. It looks like it timed off defrost. You're probably going to need to either grab the pump sprayer and some hot water and see if it can melt that coil out. Once we get that pressure up and get it running, I'm going to valve off that receiver and see if it pumps down normal and then find out whether or not that temperature sensor, or something's going wacky with it, because I don't know how you had a negative 7. It really depends on where they have it mounted at. I suspect if it's in the coil, you might possibly have been able to get down to that, but I highly doubt it. I suppose anything's possible. It really makes me think that we've got some leak by going on in that solenoid there. So we're just going to have to investigate until we get to that point. But right now we've got to clean up the mess and get it running. So it just finally came back on. It'll run about a 10 degree there. So let's go ahead and put it back into the so-called defrost, which is just going to turn off that solenoid. Let's verify that solenoid is powered first. It is powered. So let's go ahead and flip this like that. Let's see if that drops. Let's see if this thing shuts off like it should. Solenoid is de-energized. Slowly, slowly dropping. We're getting all kinds of different things going on here. That's way lower than it needs to be. Still going. Pressure switch is active. Oh, there it goes. I mean, I definitely would like to see that raised up a little bit. We'll see whether or not this thing holds. Right now it's working like it should. That's weird because my suction was a lot higher than that earlier. I have a feeling that it's through. Very possible we've got a solenoid or a pressure switch maybe to shut it off. Even if the pressure switch worked or didn't work, and that solenoid was closed, although it wouldn't do the compressor any good, it surely wouldn't froze the evaporator, which leads me back to the solenoid not shutting completely and leaking through. So we can undo this again. Okay, it just released. It's coming off. With this having a CPR valve, which is kind of interesting, honestly. Got a hellacious amount of shake there on it. I'll put it down one more time here. What we might do here. Adjust that pressure switch. If it's a little bit higher, maybe that will help out a little bit. See whether or not that causes any issues with it not staying off, which I don't think it's going to. I mean, you might get a little bit of rise. Let's go ahead and get this coil thawed out because things are starting to look a little more normal. It's kind of amazing how much has melted. That's not even the coil on top, I thought it was, but you can definitely see the coil still frozen in there. Bang in the fan blade on something. All seem to be going the right direction. All nice and dirty. So let's get those screws pulled and see if we can melt this ice out of these coils. All right, so we've got everything melted out of there. For the most part, just a little bit at the very bottom. Like I said, this has got a pan underneath of it that goes to a condensate pump and pumps to the top to evaporate out. So I didn't want to flood it with water, which is what I would have preferred to have done with. But we're pretty clean and clear. I made it match the other ones. It's at 5D for us now. So the four for 30 minutes each time, which should be more than adequate. They run this at 28 degrees, which it's because it's an open case like it is. So we're going to run this a few times now to see if we can get it to act up. I know the pressure switch currently is working, but we don't know for certain if it's acting up intermittently. Even if that, like I said, there's no reason for it to have frozen up other than the solenoid not closing completely. So it's a possibility. So we're going to have to run it a few times. Hopefully we can get it to act up. Otherwise, we'll probably back again. Went ahead and washed the fan blades off. The rest of this stuff looks like a crud, but we're just focusing on the important stuff. So I did what I can do far as airflow. We'll get this plug back in and we're going to continue testing forward with it. So I already went ahead and cleaned off some of this on the other one. There's always a mess, which is exactly what we would have out here if I tried cleaning all that up. You can actually see the fan blades through that hole now if it sucks that air in through there and blows it down through the coil and then through the back of this thing to those holes. We'll have good airflow here. We're going to have issues, but I'm not going to say that's what's going on because that's not. So we got her all back in there. It's nice and clean. Now let's just get up here and see if we can get this thing to act up. She's staying pumped down, which tells me that the solenoid's holding five pounds is plenty as far as the pumped down part. I'm going to kick this thing out of the bottle called defrost. You can see what happened here. The pan is completely full and you can feel heat off of it, so hopefully it boils that out. Looks like that was just big enough. Just big enough. What I see, these things don't shut off. It's just kind of wasteful, but it appears that's how they all are. So it must just be back 15 years ago we didn't conserve, I guess. I don't know. So let's go ahead and kick that out. We'll cut this thing. I got it set up for five defrosts there. Spelled every four and a half to five hours area. She's kicked on. She'll be about 65 area. Matt had no problem at all. Don't look too bad. Supposedly it was flashing a little bit the other day. A little check head pressure too. I want to see the whole... Oh boy. I just kicked on. There's nothing more water in there. That's not good. Ooh, doggie. That is not good. So I went ahead and got a little bucket for a big bucket so I could get some of that water out of there because it's starting to overfill. So we got that there. Head pressure's a little high. I've got the film filter media out. I'm checking things there. Making sure that's clean. Alright, so I brushed it out. It don't look too bad. Got that clean. You can see that heater is kicking butt. It's boiling that water out. But suction don't look too bad. Still ain't finding anything that really says why it did what it did. Kind of still poking around trying to find out. We're at 33 degrees. Like I said, check the head pressure. It's a little elevated, but not horrible. The side glass is full. Armistat 31, except for 28. So everything's looking pretty normal. This kind of sucks. Nothing's like standing out. So I see if we can put it back into a pump down again. I'm not into replacing things if we're not sure what's going on. If it don't do it, I'm not sure what we're going to do. I mean, obviously if it was sticking on that solenoid valve it would have probably leaked through there. That could be adjusted a little bit more, but it seems to be holding there. I'm going to see if I can find that sensor for that and see where it's at. Because the way it was reading real low like it did, it really makes me leery that it's accurate. Okay, it goes down to the top there. Okay, I can see the sensor in there. It's in the air band. It's in the back wall. So they're doing it based off of discharge, a lot of their sensors here are done that. So they must have had that sucker in the freaking coil. Interesting, I didn't see it when I had that out. Okay, adjusted it a little bit there. It's actually shutting off just about at five pounds. Still holding there. That sensor is down there in the right above the coil. Very likely it could be driven down into the coil. What I'm going to do, I'm going to take this right up to the point where I'm going to go into a defrost and see if it can push itself into it. I think that's about where it would be ready to go into it. We're going to let it go for a while and see if it can go into it on its own. I've seen them failure to be able to pull themselves into the defrost, but yet they track time. So we're going to try that first. Alright, so it just shut off. I pushed it right up there to the point where it would not turn freely by itself any further. It shut off. It went to about five pounds like I set it at. The water, I'll say maybe it is powered all the time, which is good, which is what it should be. It's shutting off the sensors down there in the coil, which is why it was so cold. I can't tell what it's doing now because of the way they wired that up. So at this point I'm kind of wondering if the clock isn't malfunctioning randomly. No real good way to know for certain what it is other than replace it and hope that it fixes it. So I may have to put it in their ballpark and let them make a decision on what they want to do. I turned it up on the thermostat because I don't want to wait all day on this thing. And it's disengaging the contacts. That was one thing I was wondering about. As it stands, if that was welded shut and never opening, then that would make it run nonstop and it would only have a half an hour off. It could have been it, it turned off, so it didn't pump down. So I'm going to put this back to where they had it at, which was 28 because it's in the band. They're just kicked on. Going again, so I'm going with the clock. The only thing it can be, unless there's something random, you know. So it's the only thing I can come up with, the only logical thing. I mean, in theory if it was defrosting it should have been able to overcome it because I mean, this is an open case. So I don't like it when you can't get a definite, but when it's crawling in and crawling out and doing what it needs to do. So we'll go ahead and I stripped this out of one of the broslins. So we'll go ahead and get her in there and get her up and going. Okay, from what I'm seeing there, it looks like 05, 38th week or month. So this is 2005. This looks like the original clock. We'll put the new one in there. We're going to go with that. Everything pumps down and kicks on like it should. So I went through and looked at some of the other ones. I wanted to see how they were set up. This one here is set up for, I think, 8. The other one is set up a 10 degree differential, which if you want a 10 degree differential it'll be at 38 when it comes back on and it's truly in the air band. I'm going to go with 8 just because I don't want to change things too much. That'll come on about 36. That'll give it a little more time to thaw out. I hate changing things, but when you have all these weird oddities nothing's really standing out obvious. Educated guests don't really work out real great. Especially when everything's working fine. But I guarantee if it did it once it's going to do it again. So at this point, we went ahead and went with the new defrost clock but a little more differential in the thermostat. Like I said, we've made sure that the thermostat opens when it reaches temperature by reversing the temperature obviously. We're at 32 down there so it's holding pretty accurately on that. The band down here showing that we're running 35. So we should be pretty good. Other than that, guys, this is going to wrap things up. If you guys like the video and you want to see more like it give it a big thumbs up. Make sure you subscribe. Check out us on Facebook. And until next time, guys, we will catch you on the next one.