 Alright guys, so we're working on a geothermal here. It's basically a heat pump, water-sourced heat pump for those who don't have those around where you're at. So not a huge deal, keep on watching. The principles are all the same, just condensers now a coaxed coil with water going through it. We were out here doing a service check on this thing, a PM, one of the guys was, and they were having doubts about whether it was performing right. Well, circuit A is running and we wanted to know whether it's put out of heat while the evaporator here does not have any heat that's noticeable. So you've got your A circuit here. I don't feel anything on it. There's A coming back. This should be your hot going in. It's not very hot at all. It's warm, but it's not hot. Not Jack coming back. Could be low in charge. I don't know exactly what's going on. A, the one of the problem ones. B is supposedly working right, but we don't know that for certain yet. I'm assuming they're sharing two individual circuits on the evaporator because down here they've got two coax coils and two compressors. I've never seen this model before. We do a lot of carrier that was made by Climate Master. Well, if you look at this, they've got two individual little compressors here. We're going to check these things to see what's going on. You could have a reversing valve and that could be low in charge. I see some hackery on the breeze there. It's sweating pretty good. You would think it's feeding. Definitely, you're coming back. It's boiling it off. You could feel a lot of cold here where it's going back to the coax coil. We're going to dig in and see what we've got. But like I said, that A compressor there is working against some really handyman work there at the wire nut. The tops of the compressor's air, plastics crack. So let's start checking pressures and see what we've got first. We're running an 8 degree of half-ap and a 67 degree discharge. It's hooked right on there above the reversing valve and right there on the suction line. It looks to me like we're low. This is an R22 system. They probably have a leak, wouldn't surprise me. That 20 of the evaporator's leak. At least you can get into it pretty easy here. That doesn't sound very good. The compressor kicked on. Wow. So the fan's speeded up. Starting to get heat on that other circuit. All right, so we've got it on there, but I think it's noisy. That one's probably working okay. Let's see. The midifier's not being used anymore. It's all gummed up. Valver's all gummed up. So what happens with crappy water? This is a pump and dump. So this is coming right from the well tank there. Going through the system, I got a solenoid on it. It's reduced flow, usually about a gallon and a half of flow per ton. So it's coming up over and going out to tile field of some sort. The other circuit just kicked on. I should say the other circuit's pressures. A little more in line there. Probably this camera is not as clear as that of GoPro. So we're running 28 and 87 on that one. Putting on your water temp to us. We just started sniffing looking for the leak. Shut the system down. What I notice is is the solenoid is not closing. So it's wasting water right now. I don't know if they got a bypass turned on or what. I don't know if it's... I know I didn't care for these. It feels hot. So it feels like it's energized. It's probably wired right. Let's see if this is wired right here. So we've got the wire unhooked and it's still dumping water. That's gonna waste a lot of well water and it's going to foul up your coax coil. This thing is a 99 which lived 21 years. She said if we can just get it going she's planning on replacing it next year which you know we've all heard it. It's definitely not saving them any money. Let's just say that. Here's the line for it. Yeah that stopped it. Yeah it's just a waste. Total waste. On and off. On to the left, off to the right. But if you don't know which way you're already are, see if you can get on there. You know what? Let's shut the water off first. I do not like these valves anyway. I like the take-off valves that close slowly. These here have a tendency to slam shut and then it'll make the pipes jar. There it stopped. Now, huh interesting. I think that's the, it may have been stuck. Hmm yeah because water's going to peek out now. There we go. All right let's see if it opens up on its own. You know it was definitely sticking. That valve needs replaced. I'll be curious if it opens up or not. Let me turn it back on. Yeah you can see oil. Oil right in there started to go off. And it stopped. There's almost no pressure on this thing. Well we're not going to fix anything right now anyhow. Okay if it's in a coil. What I wanted to do originally was just make sure it has no cumungous leaks. And if it's not then just recharge and move on. You should be able to get something right here on that. Yeah some of these. Yeah it's really weak. Yeah this thing's just in crap condition unfortunately. Let's go ahead and charge it up and then rescan it. It only holds about 30 ounces of refrigerant so it's not pretty much more than a pound and a half low. So we need a four to seven degree subcooling. Super heat should average around 13 to 17. That's at 50 degree water and same subcooling and super heat pretty much for the 30 degree water. That should be somewhere around the 45 degree to 50 degree water area because it's coming straight out of the well. We've got it turned back on. It's running in first stage. There's quite a delay I guess with this thermostat from what I was told. So what we're going to do is already strip back Y1 and Y2. We're going to jump those together. That should push the fan up and bring the other compressor on like that. Now we need to know whether or not this valve is open which hopefully it is. We'll know real quick because it'll trip out if not which it's pretty cold there so I'd say it's working. So it must have opened. Find it just easier to have with hoses than it is to think with the freaking curbs in this application. Let's go ahead and add half a pound to get it started. So we're running 56 and 154 on the circuit A that was low. We're running 53 and 175 on the circuit B that seemed like it was working fairly close. We've got 10 degrees subcooling. It's been a little high. Super heat's high. It's at 24 so it appears that CXV may not be doing its job just yet. I'm going to give it a little while yet. I'm going to give it a little bit extra. Spaceship seems to be leaking out anyhow. It don't really matter because it's a little over. It may work out to be in just about right when it's all set and done. It's slowly coming down. It just is not very quick. Right now we're at about a pound so they're not extreme compared to some of them out here but I'm not afraid to take her up there 13 pound or 13 degrees subcooling or 14 even because that's where a lot of them are at on some of the newer stuff. But we'll see how this goes here. Taking it up to about 11 and a half, 12 degrees subcooling. We're 14 on the super heat so we're pretty close on that one. I'm going to switch hoses over to the other one. Take the roads off. Okay we're on the other circuit now. We've got 10.8 on subcooling, 80 degrees since we're up here on super heat. So we've got a TXV that's most likely starting to go back on that one. People don't back off here in a minute which it doesn't seem like it is. Probably why it's so loud. It's probably been chugging liquid for a while now. We don't need to add anything to that. When the subcoolers are by this you read it them out. We're fine on that. She's just ready to be retired. It's had a good life. Got a lot better than most of the stuff that's on the market today. Taking the gauges off. Total investment, one pound, three, four ounces, a pound and a half. We've tightened the Schrader cores up on a few of these. Pointing out past the edge of the port there and then you've got missing caskets there. What you end up doing is actually pushing it down on the Schrader core which then makes a leak. In half time it's usually because somebody over cranked on the rubber seals because they think the whole dang thing leaked out through the Schrader core which is bull crap. What I'll do sometimes. I got a dedicated one but take that right out of your Klein. 10 in one, 11 in one, 62 in one, whatever. And you can get into tight spots if you don't have your little dedicated one available. So it's charged up. It's leaking a multiple spots. You can see oil on the distributor. Shiny oil here on that. That's not even on the circuit that was low. You can see oil down here. So we've got it in multiple different spots. It's not even worth screwing with. I'm actually not hearing that water valve running. It actually sounds like it must have been stuck. Maybe some iron or whatever. And now it's broke loose but myself personally I don't even need to replace it. She can always use that on the new one if she gets a new one. Now for those out there that don't know what a water source heat pump is. This right here is your coax coil. This right here is refrigerant line going through. Usually I believe if they're smart they'll put it on the outside. Water goes through the center but a lot of times they don't. That way if it leaks the water is on the inside. It doesn't leak into the refrigerant. If I say versus you know if it was on the inside then the water goes into the refrigerant. Kind of a crappy design, huh? Anyhow that's the two coax coils for the refrigerant circuit and that's the one for the hot water generator. So what they do in the summertime instead of running the hot discharge gas through the water and then right out into the field they'll run it through this coil first and then you get free hot water to your water heater and they'll circulate back and forth to the water heater. Then it'll come to this one. Kind of like reheat. Same thing. Otherwise you've got the same components. They just can't overdo it. You can't make out to be more than what it is. You've got a compressor creating flow, hot gas coming either to the coax coil out of the coax coil to TXV and into the evaporator or if it's summertime or winter time it's going to get hot gas straight to the evaporator which is now your condenser comes out goes through the TXV then to the coax coil and back to the compressor. Just a basic refrigerant circuit. Just depends on what you want to add to it after that. Whether it's you know high pressure switches, low pressure switches, whatever. Temperature sensors. So this system's going to run. That's kind of scary the way they've got that cap there on that compressor but like I said this thing is not worth putting a lot of time of money into but it is running. It is back to normal for now until it leaks out again. Most geothermals have a circulator that takes it out to the ground loop, the water center. This one here like I said is just using the pump from the well. That's why they got such a huge expansion tank so the pump isn't constantly kicking on and off on and off and just goes through goes through the system first comes out of the system then it hits this stop. You always want to keep your coax coil pressurized that way it's less sediment less build up. I forget exactly what it is but basically it's best to be under pressure and then it comes up and goes out to a field loop somewhere out there in the field natural draining or whatever and that's about it. I mean there's nothing major to this. The systems are expensive but we are up here in northern Ohio. Winters get below 30 degrees unlike the southern states so for us if you don't have natural gas and all you have is propane and you have the government screwing you price of gas going up like it is now this year in 2021 you're best off to go with the electrical anyhow that's how the system works. We're back again to replace the valve here that we found bad the new one here is a take-off valve which it's got an in switch on it the well pump is just kicked on so we're going to go ahead and shut down that particular pipe going to it so it should be this one right here. We got it turned off had to go to the thermostat to turn it off because there's no breakers down here no disconnect switches. What I'm going to do on this is I'm going to wire it so the in switch actually works this one here did not have an in switch so this one here whether it opened or not it could run this one will require it to open the in switch so it's going to power open on 24 volts here once it comes all the way open it's going to close a switch called an in switch then allow the current to flow through this onto y terminal so it won't be able to run all the sets in there so we'll have to wire that up for that they glued everything so close together that there's no place to take any of that apart so we're going to have to do is undo it from here completely get rid of all this here I really don't see any good reason for this piece here other than to possibly flush it we're just going to have to redo this T so we got some fittings here we're just going to redo got my handy dandy bucket here one with my standard Milwaukee little wannabe pack out but not really a pack out but it's a whole lot cheaper I'm a big believer in doing Teflon tape along with some sort of pipe dope going to double that up and then screw that valve there on it I've not had any leaks that way whether I'm doing boilers water lines or whatever now you can get away sometimes just tape sometimes you get away with just the pipe dope but I've had times where I've had either or leak but generally never both you are able to pull this little pin there from that piece right really can't do this wrong it's a ball valve depending on how you want the head to fit on there okay we got it in there I'm going to leave the head so it faces over here so you can kind of see it because we got lots of room over here then what I usually do is go with the threads and wipe off any excess dope probably just going to use some 90s because we've got a load of 90s all here here and there and it's not like we're really that restrictive that little silver thing there is a flow restrictor that's so it only lets a certain amount of gallons per minute through you only need about one and a half gallons per ton on a open loop system like this how we ain't moving any more water than what you need to there's only so much water in the ground and it's only coming in so quick it's got to go through all the aquifers so far we've got most of it in place we've been doubling up like I've been saying for the tape and dope we're pretty much lining it up right here we've got a tee in there again so we can flush it even though there's a lot of crap in this system these probably should have been replaced but nobody nobody's been flushing it for a while guys I can't stress enough you want to make dang sure that you're cleaning these pipes don't just be gluing them together they will pop apart all right so we've got the new one wired up here we've got two wires there the blue and yellow is going to be my y in and y out white and red is going to be my comment and the signal coming from the board for when it actually calls for cooling or heating and right now it's I think it's in a closed position because I didn't move it at all so anyhow we got it there and then we just ran it back down here tore out some of that wire that was there and we got it right there on that top red out of a commons come to sheared common there and then we just looped y in yellow and came back on blue all right apparently that must have a delay in there it has to get the signal from y I went ahead and hooked y to my 24 volts on my input there and there it goes and now now it'll close the circuit and come back so I could have done it with three wires we just covered combined it together back down here I could have done it over there you can see here it coming through and the system is running so the nice thing is it won't run unless that valve opens now the only problem with that is trying to think here there is a chance that when that y breaks that's going to break power to it and it'll stay in the open position forever so we can't do that either we got to have a constant constant power gosh that sucks unless it's a spring open let's find out here I could have read the instructions but that's not the way I work the simple way here to test this is to pull the power off here and it closes there we go so let's go ahead and do this back again this is kind of nice so there we go blanking and then boom opens up creates a path back you can hear it going through the restrictor looks like they got a shock absorber or water hammering or a water hammer valve other than that guys that should wrap this one up that's all I had to do back here so until next time we'll catch you guys on the next one