 Saya ingin berterima kasih kepada semua orang untuk ke bawah. Saya tahu ia berada di luar, tapi terima kasih kerana menerima perjalanan untuk ke bawah. Dan semoga apa yang kita dapat hari ini hari ini akan menjadi perjalanan untuk kamu semua. Jadi saya akan memilih diri saya, saya Si Hao. Saya bekerja dengan O.M.G. Jadi hari ini saya akan menjadi host. Dan host saya sebenarnya adalah di belakang, Shamin, yang akan membantu kita nanti dengan pertanyaan atau apa-apa saja. Jadi ini adalah pertanyaan, sebuah pertanyaan. Semua orang di sini pernah menggunakan masin laser sebelum ini. Saya hanya ingin mendapat beberapa perjalanan. Jadi mungkin sebaiknya sebaiknya. Dalam sebaiknya sebaiknya, siapa-siapa sebenarnya membuat masin laser sendiri? Atau mempunyai masin laser sendiri? Okey, tidak ada siapa-siapa. Baiklah, baiklah, baiklah. Kerana ini sebenarnya konten hari ini. Ini berbentuk... ...tidak akan menjadi sebuah teknik. Jadi untuk orang-orang yang pernah bermain dalam teknologi ini, kamu akan dapat tahu bahawa... ...tidak akan menjadi sebaik-baiknya. Ini baru untuk saya juga. Jadi semoga saya dapat belajar dengan kamu semua. Dan... ...pada malam ini, nama dia Kiri. Ini nama yang berlaku. Dan dia adalah penyelamatkan... ...masin laser dan penyelamatkan. Jadi apa yang kamu lihat di depan kamu, adalah sesuatu yang dia dan kakak telah membuat bersama. Sebenarnya, tidak ada sebuah besar CPU... ...yang tidak ada di komputer ini. Baiklah, saya akan menjelaskan. Saya tidak mahu terlalu banyak. Saya tidak mahu terlalu banyak. Saya rasa kita akan menghubungkan perkembangan. Terima kasih. Hai. Saya adalah penyelamatkan kakak. Saya adalah Tan. Kenapa saya ada penyelamatkan? Sebab saya masih bergerak... ...dalam Air Force. Saya berada di Air Force 16. Saya seorang penyelamatkan perkembangan... ...yang berada di belakang. Dan juga, seorang penyelamat. Sekarang... ...saya bergerak... ...dengan sistem penyelamatkan. Jadi, apa yang saya lakukan... ...dalam sana adalah membuat penyelamatkan. Jadi, pertanyaan yang penting... ...di sini adalah... ...apa yang saya lakukan. Pada masa yang terakhir... ...saya meletakkan penyelamatkan... ...dalam tahun 1999... ...semasa saya berada di Singapura. Jadi, sebab sebab saya berada di sini... ...saya boleh tanya. Jadi... ...saya hanya mendapat tiga perkara. Pertama, saya berada di sini... ...untuk berkongsi. Pertama, jika saya berada di sini... ...saya berada di sini untuk menginsipkan. Terakhir, saya berada di sini untuk menginsipkan penyelamatkan. Untuk menginsipkan penyelamatkan. Kenapa untuk menginsipkan penyelamatkan? Saya rasa tidak... ...beri sebuah ceritanya... ...tapi yang penting di sini adalah... ...kongsi saya dengan... ...berapa penyelamatkan... ...yang menggabungkan tempatan... ...di dalam masyarakat. Dan sebab itu... ...saya mencari... ...berada di sini untuk menginsipkan... ...semasa saya berada di Singapura... ...untuk menginsipkan penyelamatkan... ...dalam proses penyelamatkan. Jadi, itu adalah perkara. Jadi... ...sebab saya berada di sini... ...awak ingin berbincang... ...dan bercakap lebih tentang... ...kongsi saya dan... ...kongsi saya dan kenapa saya meminta maaf. Sebenarnya, bagian ini... ...saya ada di sini... ...dengan researchers. Saya sangat gembira dengan baju ini. Jadi... ...bukan terlalu banyak dalam bagi detik... ...sama di belakang saya... ...saya akan memahamikan satu idea. Jadi... ...DIY CO2 Laser, ...sebagai video-video ini yang sudah digunakan... ...pTERIN copiasi... ...dan bagaimana mempunyai extrem yang memiru. Kenapa saya mahu beritahu tentang perkara ini? Kerana saya rasa ini membawa kemungkinan yang paling berharga kepada pengalaman. Kerana sehingga saya tidak berpengalaman, CO2 laser adalah salah satu perkara yang paling berharga dengan pengalaman. Jadi, tanpa lakukannya, saya hanya akan masuk ke perkara ini. Sebelum itu, saya akan membuat tiga pengalaman ini. Pertama, informasi di sini tidak perlu dikatakan untuk semua pengalaman di sini. Ada banyak pengalaman. Saya tidak dapat dikatakan untuk semua orang. Jadi, jika anda menemukan dua pengalaman, tolong beritahu saya. Kita hanya akan berhenti dan menjelaskan apa yang saya beritahu. Dan bagi yang menemukan terlalu mudah atau terlalu ramai, tolong beritahu saya. Kerana kami cuba beritahu kepada pengalaman yang paling rendah untuk semua orang menjelaskan di sini. Pertama, pengalaman kedua. Pertama, di sini adalah bahawa ini bukan pengalaman yang paling berharga. Saya tidak percaya dalam belajar. Saya percaya dalam belajar dan berkongsi. Jadi, sehingga saya berpengalaman di sini, saya adalah pengalaman. Dan semua orang di sini saya belajar. Jadi, di sini saya berkongsi bahawa pengalaman yang saya mempunyai pada projek ini. Pertama, pengalaman terakhir saya mahu beritahu. Ada banyak informasi di sini yang digunakan. Dalam rancangan saya. Kenapa saya berkata begitu? Kerana dalam proses ini, percayakan saya, saya terkejut. Saya terkejut, saya dapur, dan sebagainya. Dan saya selalu percaya dalam menjelaskan diri saya, supaya orang lain akan menjelaskan saya. Dan kemudian, sehingga saya akan menjelaskan, quite a fair bit of safety points. Just take note, those are no doubt, and it's really a true personal experience. If not, I'll just continue. Just a quick scope, not about you. Generally, all I'm trying to show here is that I tried to put this presentation in a very logical flow, such that it goes through the theory. Before we go to the more advanced topic followed by all the administration in terms of safety regulations. After that, we try to end it with a practical demonstration, but I'm not going to fire a laser, because again, regulations. But I will open up the laser cutter for you guys to take a look-see, so that you guys can comprehend exactly what we have been talking about and how to see it in action. Last but not least, go through the Q&A session. You can see that, for the 19 minutes that I have today, there's no way I can cover every single aspect of this laser cutter and pet you guys confidently embark on a journey. Can you go fullscreen? Yes, fullscreen. Sorry, this is PDR, so it's ready. First of all, I'll open in the browser. You can see it open in the fullscreen. Is it? Yes. I'm in the menu. Can you try? No, it doesn't have that. Okay, wait a minute. If you're forcing it, I'll just go to those there. So generally, I believe that you take at least three more sessions of this for you to embark on the full journey of having your ability to DIY your own CO2 laser cutter and be proficient enough to conduct laser cutting. But just for today's purpose, just on the introduction of DIY to CO2 laser, the automatic learning objective down here is just to give you a basic understanding of what is needed before you embark on this project. I think it will be difficult. Oh, okay. Yes, that's the best. Sorry about that. Solve my limitation. Okay, very first topic before we go into the details, so you can ask yourself what can you do? I mean, this cater for those who are just running into a CO2 laser cutter. So generally, laser cutter does 2D cutting or engraving on basically organic material. So what do you mean by organic material? So it's about wood, leather, plastic, fabric, paper, etc. So what are the types of projects that you can embark on CO2 laser? So what I show down there is what I built for Make a Fact. You can see there's a DIY arching machine on the left. Some trinkets in the middle and then some small kind of smartphone boombox on the right. So basically, the probability is endless. You can build a phone or something as we come to the more advanced stage when you guys really are doing laser cutting, then we can go to more details of what the techniques for building all these projects. Okay, I know it's a bit boring for this but I think it's good to have some basic understanding. This is just a very quick laser theory. It's a quickie. Let's talk about laser. So laser generally, there's 2 medium gashes, which is CO2 or solid. So the solid state laser, I'll talk about the common ones, is the YAC laser which is in the 1.06 micron. So what's the difference between CO2 and the solid state? So you can see the wavelength for CO2 is different from the foremost. And as a result of the difference in wavelength, the absorption by the materials also varies. So you can see that CO2 is actually good for organic material whereas YAC laser is in fact mainly for metals and it's actually not absorbed by most organic material. Therefore YAC laser generally are limited to industrial use. You don't find common at all for DRYs but just you know both of them are invisible. So there lies a bit of safety issues which I'll emphasise later. Some of the common ones easily accessible are the diode laser, generally UV for the most part in the 443 nanometer. This however is visible it just blue light basically and they are generally for engraving and cutting non-reflective surfaces. Just think about it, UV laser is basically in the visible range. So if a mirror can reflect visible light so it means that you cannot cut mirrors you cannot cut white colour paper and whatnot. So these are some of the limitation. So if someone came to you and tell you oh my laser can cut everything it's bullshit. Just continue on. So the quick comparison CO2 laser in general is much more widely used because it is more versatile and also piece of this is lower cost. As I mentioned, generally are for industries that deal specifically for metacartic. Diode laser, I'll talk about it. There's a lot of advertisement telling you and also instructable how to add the UV laser model onto your 3D printers and you can start cutting things right away. But it's not that powerful. The capability is very limited as I explained in the later part in pictures. It's much more expensive than CO2 laser. If I may, I give you a quick comparison. 2W laser diode will cost you about $100 just for one model excluding the other system. CO2, together with power supplies at $41 will cost you about $200. So you don't matter. 40W, $200 2W, $100 Therefore vis-à-vis CO2 laser is much cheaper. There's a bunch of power ingress in the CO2 ranging from low 20W but what I'm preaching here is that 40W is the minimum for any useful cutting. 20W, though they sell, they are very compact very small. They are generally for engraving purposes only. When talking about cutting they are cutting about 1mm thickness that is not really useful for any projects. This is some of the examples. What you see on the left here is what I built for Maker Faire also using the UV laser you can see is blue. In fact, this is a laser module mounted on a 3D printer. So this is a 3D printer slash laser cutter On the right is my 40W CO2 laser cutter and much more which I will not explain. So again, all these are built by me for Maker Faire. Just before I continue anybody any question on the theory 101? If not, I'll just continue. So the main component of the CO2 laser cutter try to be as layman jaring foaming modules. The first one is the CO2 laser cutter module. Generally, that module will be responsible to create the IR laser energy for you to do the necessary cutting. So that is module number 1. Module number 2 is the mechanical portion of the module. Generally responsible for the XY axis or Z axis movement to do your CMC cutting. Control module basically is a control of the brain and the necessary driver for the motors and the one that is responsible to give the laser signal as in to turn on or to turn off the laser. This is important because that determines whether or not you can do laser cutting because on laser there is just cutting everything so it doesn't happen. The support module like say the CO2 laser is like an animal. It need to breathe, it need to drink, it need to fart. So air, water, exhaust. All these things you talk about in which I will cover in detail. It just kind of broad design layout for physical laser color. So we have a laser tube infarate energy come as a beam projected at the front. In the typical common layout is a tree mirror setup. First mirror will also to the second mirror. The second mirror and third mirror actually align on the single axis that will move up and down. And then the third mirror incorporated into the cutting head. In this phase the third mirror part of the cutting head will move in the axis. So now you can see it, move up and down and then go left and right. So as a result, now you have cnz pattern. So this is a very typical common layout you can find on eBay, Alibaba or Taobao. But then again clearly I'll try to break that down into two parts. Consumables and non-consumables. The reason why I will try to bring this off because I need you to understand that still too laser cutter when you build one is not that permanently. There are parts that is just like changing a layout. You need to change it up. So this will add on to the cost. So when you embark on this project you need to know that it is not a one time cost. So you need to pay the premium for using a CO2 laser. So for the consumers the CO2 laser tubes where the air source come from this have about 5,000 to 10,000 hours lifespan. Again depends on how well you may take just a live out. It may or may not go by that. Sometime it can open much later. The other consumables are the first mirror, second mirror and third mirror of course. These mirrors will just pass this around. Generally you can see that the one I have in my hand is a bit blurred because it's consumable. So it's already run out of light so I've got to change it. So just pass it around. So again these mirrors actually quite cheap. How often you need to change it about 6 months and also depends on how well you can because if there is dirt oil or what so ever from the exhaust and things that just stick on the mirrors it actually do not keep and actually doesn't help you to speed so the thing will actually damage. The last part of the consumable is actually the length. So you guys are kids to go down to the sun and try to burn something same thing. The beam coming out of this tube initially is not focused. Generally they are looking about 1cm in diameter. The cutting power is not there. So what turns that IR energy into a focus beam that actually can cut through material various focal length depends on need whether you want to do a shallow cut deep cut or what so ever. For now just know that there is coming call focal length. The focal length looks something like this again is a consumable so you can see there is a bit of scarring so it means that this thing actually is a van of light this thing cost about 20 USD So that's for the consumables. The non consumables generally are a fixed power unit or just taking a typical 30 Nm trading plus but just know the output from laser power unit is 20,000 to 40,000 gold so that will kill you. In addition to providing the power to the laser tube provide the control interface. The control interface generally consist of 3 function. First one to turn on or turn off the laser. So which means that your signal from the controller go into the power unit and that will turn on or off the laser power unit. Number one, number two, that's the safety switch. So the safety switch is your master on and master off. So in regards of whether the controller gives you signal to turn on or laser off you will not turn on if it is master off. Lastly is the test function. The test function means that regardless of whether or not this thing is connected to the computer or whatsoever I just need to test to see whether everything is turn on. I just press power of the power of the laser tube and it will just start firing without the need to plug into your computer. So that's for the power slide. If not the first, second and third mirror requires a melting. So the melting itself dept will not need to change. They are just solid piece of metal which are actually Last thing is the cutting head which is actually the subject that hold the lens and the mirror and the last portion of the laser system that channel the IR energy of the work piece. Okay, rather than using words I would rather use pictures. For the actual top left this is the power unit the red color is where the high voltage output is. The lens of which I will pass and I will look something like this. The laser tube and these are the first mirror, second mirror and the laser cutting head. So it kind of like a microscope with the focal length. Okay, so far we have talked about the laser module. We need cover one. The router module generally is a mechanical module that actually doing all the movement. So no difference from your 3D printer. Anybody here do 3D printer or do your DIY for your 3D printer? It can't be anyone. Okay, if I use two telekaten again please stop me not much of science yet. Typical 3D printer setup, Nima Moto. Nima 17 is great now. We are not dealing with very heavy equipment so the laser cutting out of this is light enough for Nima 17 to move around. Typical 3D switch, you can see this 3D printer switch. G2 bell no surprise, all these are 3D parts. The linear rails basically the guide to guide the X or Y axis up to you. Based on your comfort level your price range your desired accuracy at one hour. So you can go to the high end or the low end. The only things I will just highlight is that so long as a rail because again the last thing you want to do if you have along the way the laser go miss alignment the mirror bounce off the IR energy and where is the laser going to go? I don't know. So that's the main thing. Otherwise, generally for the 3D printer setup you need to have parallel Y axis so what do you mean by parallel Y axis? So generally parallel Y axis means that you will have 2 Nima Moto that is powering the Y axis printer together so 3D printer setup we have 1 Nima Moto that powering the Y axis The reason for that is the cutting area for 3D printer is small so you do need to have that kind of alignment issue but for laser cutter generally you need to have about A3 size cutting area so that actually represents significant width that if you do not parallel Y axis the Y axis will just move around and again, what I mean is the laser will just shoot over there and that is not good so that is the second model so now for the third model so I try to keep it simple to be again, no stranger RAM 1.4 using the Arduino the Mega 2.0 set up Why I use this as far as achievers so I try not to use something fancy but I need to keep the cost low so that it becomes something in DIY because the premium doing it yourself diminishes as a cost of DIY so it will not make sense if I use all that sense one stepper drivers I say you all try because it depends on what Nima model you use because using Nima 17 for 3D printer dan the typical stepper drivers for 3D printer but in my case, I just demonstrate to you I will be using a bigger one because I wanted to have more juice on Y axis because in my setup it's much heavier so your 3D printer setup will not work the output signal you have a few options if I pin and you use a fan out you can use an extruder all these you can find online don't really have to do some or fancy programming because the moment you use firmware on it here it will actually have a drop down menu for you to select which one you want to use then you just use it other hand, the quantum model you need power supply or power supply I recommend the power controller to be at least greater than 8M what I say 8M you just do a map is assuming that each Nima model takes 1.5M 4.5M subsequently you need an exhaust fan you need a water pump the controller desam to just add on 8M the minimum you need coming up to the last module like I say the CO2 laser cutter is like an animal you need to breathe you need to drink and then we'll talk about being to air pump why do I need that if you guys have just remote your childhood playing with the games using an example so when you start to focus the beam on you can see it's a cat fire so now just imagine this happening on your work piece do you want your piece to cat fire yes laser cutter is supposed to cut through the work piece but you're not supposed to make it cash fire so what happen here is that the air pump pressure generally as well 50 to 100 psi to try to force both the fumes to exhaust and the fumes to be away from work piece so that at the end of the day once you have a final product you will not have burn marks if not there will be tons of burn marks later I can show you some example of my tour workmanship then you'll see a bit of burn marks those will be if you don't do it well the burn marks will be much worse so that is generally the first use of lap out the second use is actually the lens so now just imagine that now again using magnifying glass you start to burn from the burn but now you just get it too close so you get too close the fire is there and you get what all the shoot and all the flame or whatever you start burning onto the lens and the lens is not going to last very long and if there is any dirt or oil or stains from the lens no one will survive so another use of the f-arm is actually to preserve the light in the lens second support module water cooling system this is extremely extremely critical to the laser tube you can see the laser tube is made of glass heat is going to get out directly in the laser tube without sufficient cooling the tube is on crack and you just lost about 2 hours so but do you simple 12v water pump those are using your fish tank that will work the only thing that I appreciate is that try to have at least 1 liter of water to absorb the heat because if not the heat is going to be out so fast get the efficiency of your laser cutting the the laser tube itself it needs to be kept at a suitable temperature generally once you go past 50 degrees Celsius the efficiency drop almost 50% so if you want a consistent cutting the worst thing you want to do is try to have an intricate project think about 10 minutes cut and then the last thing you'll find out is hey, how come half of my project is not being cut to or the cutting is not even 12% and then make sure you have sufficient cooling and sufficient water as a brain system as of what you need to point inside tap water is fine some people prefer to put this in water someone put cooler without the function the only thing about tap water is that you need to change about 2 weeks especially in summer okay, last part of the support module broadly really it's a must for your health sake trust me, i'll put myself in that position so you need generally your typical fence will work just as well but please use at least a 3M don't use those by 1.5M no, it's not going to suck out anything so you need about 3M to get power to go out the exhaust if you don't care about your neighbors just study up the window somebody has come in if not, if you are as well want to go as needed then i'll just put the exhaust filter so my exhaust filters consist of activated carbon to get rid of the daily chemical and then the HGPA filter stores the use of aircon vacuum cleaner those will give up majority of the exhaust the actual design don't worry about that, we'll come to the next session the idea here again, i recap is to just a introduction what is needed from you to take on this journey okay, we have talked about the 4 modules so let's talk about the design so now how to take those 4 modules that we kind of want to and put it in the form of design before i go to any questions okay, if not 1 is not concentrated what size is not so generally the cutting area is really determined based on 2 things number 1 the project needs for this cutting so what is the size that is typically needed for you to cover a project just number 1 number 2, if you want to put it in your room how much will it save you that is the second project so once you determine that then you can determine what kind of cutting area then from there you can start to design so the then again, the size is not unlimited why i say that the still too laser like any light actually entering to distance so for every meter that you go so let's say i want to take the laser tube and point something down stream at your 5 meters you think you can cut anything no it doesn't so in fact the degration is so significant especially in a PSI 400 environment inside the laser cutter it is really not feasible to go beyond 80 size anything about the 80 size i think some of the guys they realised that the certain part of the wood piece simply just couldn't get cut and as inconsistency they just over design the cutting area for small litre, 4 to 1 laser tube so if you really need that kind of size in option A you get bigger laser tube which is 81 and then accept or you can design in such a way that the laser tube actually move together with the cutting area so as it is up to distance will always be maintained constant as one but it has its mechanical complexity 41 laser cutter generally 80 size it's a recommended size you can try more but you will just suffer the inconsistency of your 24 but you say that it's bigger than 80 size and my question is if you guys say we cut it twice only so to cut it again cutting it twice means that you need 2 thing you suffer time, obvious second is that do you have bigger water cooling system 2x so the short answer is you can can do a double cut, triple cut or triple cut if you want but each time the laser cut 1x there will be burn marks 1 pass, 1 burn mark 2 pass, 2 burn mark 3 pass, 4 burn mark and then the quality of the work piece will suffer any other question so generally the most common one is the 3 mirrors layout if you may so this is just what we went through laser tube 1st mirror, 2nd mirror, 3rd mirror allows for Y axis X axis Z axis doesn't really matter later i'll tell you what for the this is the most common layout you can have 2 mirrors layout this one 2 mirrors layout 2 mirrors layout you only have 1 mirror and the 2nd mirror on the cut edge so what it means is that the mirror actually the short cutting system move this way together with the 1st mirror and then the laser cut edge will move this way so what happen here is that you have all this area that is unusual so it is not space efficient at all but the good point is that amount of alignment issue that you have is lesser because there is one less alignment so that's the point so if those of you want to say maybe i don't want to start on the DIY so advanced yet i start something simpler you can expand it because i started this so there is to go down you can actually have a 1 mirror setup so what the hell is a 1 mirror setup so 1 mirror setup what it means is that the laser cube and the cutter head is actually an integrated component this is generally very common in very very large cutting area point W so what happen is that this entire module will just move along the whole factory floor cutting very big piece of plywood so that is generally for that or going to the other extreme this thing is stationary so what they have is a very small 3D printer kind of paper they are just moving below the laser cut edge so you either go extremely large or very small cutting area then a 1 mirror setup is the best option cost effective yet almost the point of no alignment problem you need to worry about so those are generally the 3 so now that i mention this what do you think is a 0 mirror yeah smart so the best put it in a vertical position just put a lens nobody has tried it but if you are even a big one then you can put out a kick starter sorry so for the 3D printer if you are seeing 2 mirrors or for the 3D printer i will go to 3D printer but let's say you are absolutely just want to cut at the same 21cm x 21cm and just quite a few quite a few things that you just move so but then again laser cutting something that is limited to 21cm x 21cm so not very useful but in fact there is commercial use for what is used is actually in the office place they do engraving on like big computer system so far we have just run through the kind of nuts and bolts of what put into a laser cutter so i will just go into a bit safety now but before i jump to safety i just want to know that any question if not just don't worry about missing the slide i will try to go to 1G to have this be available to everybody i am not taking a game going back to my interaction i am here to share this is the portion that i really really really need you guys to pay attention before and above ready to kill you i can see the high voltage again i am talking about 20,000V the laser the exhaust do not underestimate the toxicity of the exhaust okay let's talk about the first thing high voltage i cannot emphasise enough so if the wiring is not done properly spark will fly either the spark shock you or at minimally you will destroy all the electronics that you invested and for those who try to do the easy way or using add a little quick so bottom line is just don't do not do it i will show you how it is done the correct way or at least the safe way all these are learnt through blood my blood okay i will talk about the high voltage i will kill you i will emphasise again you will cause damage so not only does it cut or get it you will cut it it is not necessary just the laser any form of reflected source and i mean any form of reflected source it is going to cut you because you never know what is reflected so make sure no matter what your laser cutter is fully encased okay i see people that show on the internet having like exposed no lah again it is learnt through blood because we will talk about how i did the R energy generally does not escape the encasement because i will say any form of organic material actually absorb IR radiation so even acrylic organic material will absorb actually all of the laser source but which means that even if i have let's say transparent clear acrylic the IR energy is just a great house effect clear glass IR energy coming is not going to walk fast through so it will either burn itself through the acrylic which you can see or it just not going to get out so generally it is i collection in a encase system using all this tinted acrylic or where i collection is for the UV because at the point of the cutting the UV intensity is almost high so that will put it on so not only IR is going to cut you the UV source that come out of the cutting so make sure Zeta A you have this encased tinted placing for where the necessary IR protection just to protect yourself okay coming to the last one is the exhaust when it's cutting wood there is no difference from the PSI 400 situation that kind of health effect i do not need a doctor here to tell me again not so blood i think i have film to tell you that it's not fun at all second part is that if you are cutting plastic the film is cancelled and not just that there is a whole lot of other nasty tentacles in fact give you example PVC when you cut even if you have even if you have a damn good exhaust system it's going to destroy almost every single components inside of machine so i will not cut PVC using my CO2 if anybody want to cut plastic PVC okay this part i cannot skip this okay but i have to highlight just to give you the kind of understand you realize that the only regulation that govern CO2 laser or cast 4 laser is NEA but it sounds very funny so just to bring back i just read out a bit so the genesis of this regulation actually came about in the 90s when the Singapore start to industrialize so to protect the workers this regulation is set up to protect so that Singaporeans do not suffer industrial injuries without due form of control so many years down the road so those kind of loss of transition but then again the three type of license that's available that's so-called relevant to Singaporeans are the N1, N2, and N3 you can reserve that online but again the reason why i say it's a great area because it's meant for company who is dealing with manufacturing or selling but you got DIY i'm not too sure how you're going to tell you why so second N2 is for company ownership again so even if you want to own something i need to write down the form serial number of the machine what serial number is there lastly is for the workers that's going to work on them in that same form it requires you to put down the license number for N2 and again the serialized number of the machine which you do not have plus you're not a worker you're a DIY maker but in any case there's a very high light input people will try to force a survey to the square so if you still find yourself to cover yourself continue to go over here and apply license the cost the price is about $38 per license for 3 months and i think the denominator is 3 months, 6 months, 9 months, 1 year and 2 years so it's up to about $300 per license for 2 years what is the cost because they cost $33 and for 4th January means that it's harmful to even to the workers so the more you talk about CO2 automatically no need so i kind of talk about the regulation so far i think the question if not i'll just try to just get around and i'll just open up this machine it kind of run through exactly what we have been okay about when you say the laser the regulation is for established complete operating system the components in isolation so the regulation that you're creating but then again that could be because this whole episode is still in the gray area so again just i'll e-bike it was gray so when something happens then just i will just say keep it gray it always takes a bit effort to spoil the whole actually there will be some regulation to set in to control yes i agree i actually agree so i think those are definitely going to progress and the in the civil servant myself again i don't think we are so short-sighted i think there is still an understanding of the potential of such a if the question right now is where we draw the safety line and then find the best zone to help proceed quickly okay if not but you guys can gather around i'll just put few so so ya so so okay so it's an operation but i will not fight it okay so guys i just go through the 4 basic module so let's talk about the laser module laser module i'll talk about laser power supply down here the the power source itself what it does is provide high voltage supply high voltage supply will always come in the red color wire and it is integrated into the power supply so you don't have to buy anyone so it come a bit the red part is high voltage and the high voltage always goes to QN okay high voltage QN not the area high voltage QN the ground or the exhaust it actually go on this side what it has here is that all it does is that it basically give me a few controls muster on off i'll talk about it the test button i'll take a look so let's join the main function some if you want to do manual intensity control you can do that if not the controller can actually based on power sweep motivation how fast is on and off you can actually control the intensity so the manual knob volume knob okay so that's the power source the next thing is the laser tube it's hidden inside here so laser tube generally they are always come in a fixed dimension 700mm in length 5cm fixed period so between that we design and do all dimensioning you can assume that there is a dimension the only thing with the laser tube here is that i want to talk about some of the fragile point the fragile point consist of 2 parts you can see that this holding is really melt glass so which means that the contact point when you have the cathode and emote it's metal so how are you going to fit so some people will just crimp it directly onto the glass that's not a good idea when you crack the glass piece the CO2 will leak once the CO2 is all leak out from the tube the laser tube is useless normally i will just crimp the connection such that it's almost about the same diameter as the cathode pin and i will try to play with it until it has a perfect the moment once it's fitted already i will use insulator fairly thickly just of what will spark from jumping over the place this is the only part that requires a bit of tension once you talk about the low voltage portion of it which means the front part anode portion of it this one you can go ahead and use your alligator pin this one cannot this one can't play and then where does the anode go to they actually go to the L- point here like i said you don't have to worry too much on the schematic or if on discussion but just understand generally what i mean from that so that is the laser tube so remember power source laser tube let's talk about the mirrors this is a typical 3 mirror setup so we have the first mirror which is just right in front of the laser tube so air energy it's going to get excited escape from the front part bounce off the first mirror and then go to the cutting head and then the third mirror will just like a periscope down through to the cutting area and within which there is actually lens so you can see that this thing is Y axis moving out of down and then X axis moving this way so it means that at all times the beam is actually bouncing almost exactly to the same cutting head so that's generally constitutes the whole laser model so that's one model the second model we talk about is the router model which control the XY axis in this case has no Z axis just X and Y laser cutting is 2D business when people tell you laser cutting can do 3D it's like taking BSE i know some kickstarter is in there i take my word ok so i guess i prefer to say it's basically just a typical 3D printer setup in this case like i mention parallel Y axis so you can see 2 MIMA model 1 and 2 MIMA 17 and then the third one is actually down here this is the X axis so 2 Y axis 1 X axis and then Y is the linear guide actually i'm using a big biffy one so just now i mention why i use a much bigger driver i just use whatever spare parts i got so the best spare part i got is this 3D 2D linear guide but then again the linear guide, your choice what i'm asking is that when you use a linear guide make sure it's stable so i should not see a whole lot of shaking or whatnot so again it's dangerous not going to be equal somewhere and that somewhere can be your eyes or somebody else skin ok so that's generally your router model the third one control model so for the control model ok control model again for those who are familiar with 3D printers all i have here that you guys can take turn and just share around is your typical 3D printer board i'm using a ram 1.4 because i think it's the cheapest just to keep the cost low you can use whatever you want but just use this if you want to keep it cheap in this case my signal coming out i'm using pin 5 pin 5 is basically this orange wire later you come up i'll just point it to you guys using pin 5 then ultimately go to laser fire input down here so when everything is done on when you send the necessary to gcode into the computer it will have the sequence of when to on and when to off the laser to the power supply already and then accordingly the power supply it's down here generate is greater than am because i will just show you because i need the pump that is something so small this is the water bottle by the way then you need to run the exhaust and then some of you may want to run your air pump using your 12v but in my case i'm using directly from the ac power so make sure that you have at least the am and 12v if not it's not enough juice to run the system so that is the control the last portion of it is the support i just show you the water pump again you need something of this capacity of water just to have any useful duration of cutting if you had any spoiler, chances are water is going to heat up very fast and you realise the efficiency will drop quite drastically okay, the other test water, next thing is the exhaust later you can come over here so basically just duck fan inside there is activated carbon filter and also the HEPA filter to kind of filter the gas the last of the support system so remember what i say, the air pump is useful 2 things first, to make sure you have a good cut so you force the flame and exhaust away for a whole piece the second is to keep the lens clean so this is laser cut you can see the lens is actually inside the side so what happen here is that the air pump actually pump the air the fourth section basically the contact area so in this case, there will always be a positive air flow pressure going this way so any form of flame smoke or whatnot will not get into the cutting head and dirty your lens because once the lens get dirty be it because of the smoke or be it when you install this you have your saliva in between that particle will trap heat it will be there for whatever it cannot escape and each time you burn the heat will build up and the life span of your lens will just how about dust same anything that burns anything that heat up and the thing will not disintegrate as you burn it will be there it will still burn how about acrylic because it is mirror no for the acrylic like i said for air energy it will just be absorbed which means that let's say you got the acrylic mirror that you buy from let's say our friend you will cut nicely okay so we kind of run through kind of common idea kind of raw idea of how this component is made out of again, i want to emphasise the session today is pure interaction just want you to know what it takes to build a lens cover for me, it only take me 1.5 days to build this because i was a bunch of SUD student that wanted to run through so i just build something pardon my old magic if given amount more time i will do something better but i think it suffice as a training aid what i have here is generally the principal design for any form of DIY CO2 laser cutter so just feel free, just take a look what is the cost for all the parts so far so far general okay i use a lot of recycle parts so i never use this as an example let's just say that you want to start on scratch generally you are looking at approximately i don't know $692 $10 again, i will put the view of materials the moment we come to the session then you make a decision again those cost does not include old magic how much is the CO2? so the tube itself including shipping is about $120 you can bring it i brought in bigger no i say the license is when the whole thing is good then you run to the issue because remember the NDA license or when you file even if you let's say i want to be a good citizen i want to get all the license that i can get before i buy anything even i want to fill out the form no number there's none okay anyway i'm still trashing this out how do you adjust the mirror so that make it alive good question there is a safe way and you see already you say okay okay we are getting a bit more technical just for your benefit we i'll just show you okay obviously at your very first setup the alignment you cannot guarantee you try your best in your design try to measure everything to the best use a micrometer but again i won't trust myself so if you do not if you just simply based on pure assumption and your measurement just face directly so what i do is that normally i get a piece of wood i just make sure i put it in between i fire up okay i said okay this is about that as i get closer to the next mirror say okay whether it is shooting in the centre if you put it higher no you cut so you had to put so that is for the gross area first gross area so it is two step method because you try with a big piece because you never know where the thing will shoot suddenly big piece it is okay it is somewhere there gross area you can just do the point through knot such as it goes about centre okay agar agar so now you put on this side so if this thing is reflected if it is hitting on this mirror so you put down here and shoot so do the same thing until it is in agar agar then you use skor steak and you make sure your power is set at the minimum so you say okay so now i know this thing can go here this thing can go here so i want to make sure it is perfect because at the end of the day the whole beam will need to point through this small little so a lot of time you say okay here how come the laser is not shooting out because just half a degree area the laser will just be hitting the side of the laser cutting edge so it is aint going to come out and the depth is just a layman explanation so you put a clear tape so you try to do it again the test button so the portion of the skor steak the reason why i use a transparent skor steak because i can do a relative comparison with the position relative to the mirror position where is the boomerang then i do the fine tuning of community so once everything is centred let it run so that is step 2 step 3 now that you know that okay this mirror is going here and the beam is coming out but that is only at this position how about here how about here so every single location you have the fine tune such that consistently the beam is always able to exit from the cutting edge then now i put the A3 size material inside so that is so which means if i put a percentage of effort almost the last 30% this is alignment no change so the question is why A3 in the mirror so you say so you say there are a few options 2, 3 or whatever the best is kosong so why because it has it came just a recap so 3 minute is the best setup in terms of size space efficiency particularly in your room that is the best design 2 mirrors yes, very simple but the space efficiency is not that so for let's say a 1 meter machine probably only a small part for the 1 mirror system again then you result in that 3D printer kind of size off but then you can invent the 0 mirror and good luck just while you are free air, free air yes i try that total PS the 2 bars ah, number 1 how much you spend on the laser pointer your typical laser pointer that use presentation how accurate you think the laser is it's not poor cited so let's say the whole thing if you have this laser pointer of this 10 cm i put all i measured i think buy it out ah so you base on that and you try to align again, all these are learn through blood i try to that's why i say it's absolutely bullshit so i just use this method solve the problem it's cheap no doesn't really help so in fact normally what i does is i will do the calculation the best i can do an eyeball no sheet check because all you need to do is just okay it's about that sorry when you do a check you wear goggles for safety or you sometimes a little too loud i don't want to answer that i don't know yes, good point so i'll let you design hahahaha i'll let you design you alright you alright that's all you mentioned and how do you do no because of what base you base on you see ah 40W laser cutter generally cut by NM worth of buy so that is your actual design material so let's say you want to have a CO2 laser cutter how thick of a material you want fine fine what's the difference between 5mm and 3mm nothing ah you guys need to cut 1mm do you have something about this no because you see the difference because i put it of course quite practically let's say i got a range material i'll cut 1mm up to 5mm i know 5mm is a max and most of the time i cut 5mm so i put my focal length at 5mm and i cut 5mm and when i say i put my 5mm it means that how i judge ah it's not when you say the focal length it's not say that you go to measure the spot of the focal beam this one ah looks like it's the smallest diameter of 2cm i just let it run i see the quality of the cut because i know that 40W at that kind of speed it should cut through 5mm if it doesn't cut through it means that something wrong my focal length or maybe your alignment is not then i adjust until the point that it can cut through 3mm on my 5mm then i leave it at this so now i put a 1mm and what is good on your 5mm is good for treatment and 1mm so in fact in the industry when people start to say i really need adjustable focal length automatic one or some more the reason for that is because they are actually cutting very big material like metal, plywood that is when you last material as your bigger it actually works so you want a consistent cutting power and that cutting heat alone ah so it is for your internal purpose no point then for their design they say i actually can adjust my ZSC i can put the whole cutting table for what eh again the maximum amount of thickness you can cut is 5mm so you have to adjust which means when people have ZSC it is not about cutting it is for engraving i got my CPU i want to engrave something so you adjust ZSC so you can store in your CPU so these are some of the the moves up second is also some of the Kickstarter they say oh eh mine is a 3D laser cutter what the hell cuts 3D in this setup nothing cut 3D so which means what is trying to say the cheaper version of the so that you put something like an iPad that actually have curvature so you adjust to the curvature so that the consistency of the engraving is maintain throughout the surface so that when you last thing you want to do is take out your $2000 iPad and say holy shit how come half the thing is dark the other half is like and it's a one way trick it's like that too ah so that is one thing by 3D la but it's not 3D cutting it's engraving and the 3D engraving is also not the correct statement because when you say 3D engraving i'm talking about those crystal that actually have 3D hologram those is another kind of laser and those require a different kind of medium the medium must be pure because one more thing to add is that if you try to cut glass why? because glass itself is not a pure material it actually has metal component that's how it get its color so when the CO2 laser remember is infrared the glass will absorb every single ounce of the energy but the problem right now is that because there is metal inside it heat up so the whole thing will crack so acrylic mirror yes no if not just go ahead and take a look see 20kx40k 20kx40k so how to so you push up yes yes yes fly back so this is just this is just intensity because sometimes you want to put a 10% just to focus so when you say 20kx40k is it adjustable? yes in a way so your whole camera no no, it's 41 41 41 yes what is because i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i i