 No, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no. vision. We've got a revision of this popular 1.14 inch screen. Oh, can you go back so fast? This yes, you can see how tiny it is. It's 240 by 135 pixels. I love it. It's very high density. It's IPS. It's being revised because the screen got discontinued. So we have a new version, we also did a silk screen update and so in the back, so here's what got updated. First up, the screen's the same size, it's the same orientation, same commands and everything except instead of the screen being soldered in, it now plugs into the little socket there and then on the board. But to make a space for that cutout, we had to shrink the micro SD card. So it used to be a push-push type and now it's a push-pull type. So basically to remove the SD card, just yank it out, you don't push it back in and have it pop out. Other than that, it's just the breakout board is the same size, pin out, mounting holes, everything, just new silk screen and slightly updated component layout. Okay, a bunch of unexpected maker stuff came in. Yes, unexpected maker made UFL versions of older boards and we love older boards. So we're stocking them. It's the S3, Tee-nee S3 with UFL, the Pro S3 with UFL, I guess, semi-QT, we got all photos. We've got the Feather S3 and then this is the, I don't know, the back, sorry, the Pro S3 and the other one was, oh, I don't remember, Feather S3 and then that was the Tee-nee S3. So, yeah, okay. All right, there's one more. And this is like the Tee-nee Pico, I think. Yeah. Yes, Tee-nee Pico, UFL. So all these now have UFL. So they do not come with an antenna. You will have to get another antenna. We do in the store stock both UFL Wi-Fi antennas and UFL to RP-SMA adapters. They're linked from each product. You will want to, if you're connecting a Wi-Fi antenna, use an RP-SMA UFL adapter. You need the RP-SMA type, not the plain SMA type, or the antenna won't make contact because the polarity is different. Wi-Fi antennas are different than every other antenna for reasons. So if you want to put these in a box or you just need more antenna gain, you want to have it be like weatherproof. You want to have the board be far away, all sorts of reasons. Check out these UFL versions. They're basically the same price, but they just don't have an onboard antenna. All right, next up, please. Last week, I think we put in the Neo-key, which is not to be confused with the delicious Neo-key. Breakout boards, these are ultra-slim keycaps. Yeah, they're so slim. You can see how slim they are. Oh my goodness, they're so slim. So this week, we're putting in keycaps. The clear keycaps, unfortunately, were discontinued. So we got the white keycaps instead. They're a new product. They're kind of that pale computer white. They are not translucent. They're opaque. However, GP noticed that you can scratch them to kind of scrape away the top coating, which is opaque and you can get a shine-through design. So just FYI, chalk switches don't have as many keycap options compared to MX. People really like the low-profile, but there's a lot of trade-offs. There's not as much flexibility in keycap availability, but these at least are whites. They're like a milky-white color. You can paint them. You can scratch them. You can decal them very easily. So a good option. We also have black. Next up. Next up, we have a UV Neopixel strip. So it's an addressable LED. So each LED can be turned on and off, except it has UV LEDs, not RGB LEDs. And so you've got there some fluorescent dust. We have like this fluorescent paste dust stuff. So these, you can see the chips. Those are WS2811 chips. Each one is wired up to a UV LED. So the thing is that it's UV, but the chip and the libraries don't know that. So what you would just do is say, if you want the LED to be on, you just set RGB to like 255, 255, 255, 255, and now turn the LED on full brightness. There's three individual UV LEDs for the RGB channel. But there's people who want to do UV LED stuff and they want to light it up very easily and control whether it's on or off or they want to dim it. This definitely is just gonna make it really easy to do so, because you can just use any standard neopixel setup for it. We also have a 32 meters, sorry, 32 LEDs per meters. This is the 60. It's a little bit more expensive, but it's got double LEDs. Okay, next up, just a very simple breakout board. I needed a breakout board for this connector because I started to use it. It's a TRRS connector. So it's tip ring, ring sleeve. If you go back to the headphones. So you can see on the headphone jack, it has four contacts. There's the tip, which is left. The first ring, which is right. The third ring, which is going to be microphone, usually on headsets and the fourth ring, which is ground. That's for like headsets, but you know, I actually think that these audio jacks can be used for whatever you want to have low cost cabling to connect for data lines, say I squared C or maybe your power ground, RXTX, whatever over a headphone cable. You can use a TRRS jack for that. And these photo cables are really, really cheap and they come in like every length. So, you know, could you use it for that? Maybe, I don't know. Or you could just use it for the audio. This breakout board has this connector, sorry, the jack has, in addition to the sleeve, right and left has two switches. The R switch and the left switch. The R switch is when the jack is not inserted, goes to the right. And the left switch is connected to the left. When you insert the jack, the R switch and left switch pins float. And this is basically, you know, on old stereo systems where you plugged in the headphone jack and automatically turn off the speaker. That's because the audio would no longer be routed through the switches. You can also use it to detect when a jack is plugged in by having a very light pull up. And you can detect whether it's like grounded or not. There's tutorials that we've linked to. Or you can use Google for jack detection to determine how to do that. But basically came free with the connector. So sure, we added onto the breakout. Okay, the start of the shoot tonight, besides UliData, our team, our customers, our community is. This little gamepad QT, otherwise known as the QT gamepad code. This is something I just really wanted because we were always making little projects or robots where I was like, oh man, I just need like kind of gamepad controller. And I don't want to wire up all the pins. I just want to be plug and play and ready to go. So this is a STEM a QT board that has a two-axis joystick, a thumbstick. And it's kind of reminiscent of the Vita, if you've ever used the PS Vita, a portable game system. It's got two little middle buttons and it's got four larger buttons. And there is a little AT tiny chip that converts the buttons and the two analog inputs into I squared C data. So you can read it over I squared C, which means you can use it with chips that don't have M on digital converters or you don't want to wire up the 20 pins necessary, the 10 pins necessary to get all these IOs. It's designed to be used with a STEM a QT cable so I can show that overhead, which I think turned off. Ooh. Yeah. Oh, wait, there you go. While it's booting. Let's see what happens while it's booting. Let's see if we, no signal. No signal. Well, it'll come back in a second. It's loaded. STEM cam. Yeah. Loading. It's useful for, especially, you know, projects where I'm using like a Raspberry Pi and I want a little gamepad, but I don't want to use USB for some reason. Whoa, it's just, it's not working. It's not working, huh? That's cool. Okay, now it's sparkling. It's sparkling. Okay, it's kind of weird. Anyways. You've got code in Arduino and, okay, now it's working. Kind of. Maybe. No, it's working. We're back. Yay, we're back. Okay. So it's got a STEM a QT port so you can plug it into, we have boards that have STEM a QT on them, but also you'll have boards that go from this connector to jumper headers. It's tiny. It's small. It's like, you know, one inch by two inches or so. But, and it comes with the joystick soldering. So we do this all for you. So you've got this like analog thumbstick to select star buttons and then X, Y, A, B. So, you know, it's kind of in the standard gamepad setup. There's a power LED and an IRQ pin and LED. You can set it up to have the IRQ pin pulse whenever you get button presses, if you don't want to spam the I squared C port and there's two address selects. So if you want to connect up to four of these on one I squared C port, you're good to go. The only thing I didn't do on this is cause we didn't have space. There's only one STEM a QT connection. So if you want to chain it, we have a little I squared C hubs that you can use to, to connect multiple one of these cables to one I squared C port. And as I mentioned, we've got Arduino code and circuit Python code. So easy to use with any Blinka microcontroller or computer. Okay. And that is our new products of the week this week. Later.