 Well, it's time to finally tear this massive CRT apart and see what's really going on inside of here. I had a lot of requests from Patreon members and even some other viewers that were asking me to detail how to tear this monitor down in the correct way, because it is a little bit different. There are some screws in awkward positions. So we're going to go ahead and start by just removing the shell. If you want to see more about how this monitor works, you can check out one of the other two videos. It's already been produced about this specific monitor. But today we're just going to get in here and we're going to, again, start by taking this shell off. And we'll look at the circuit boards and we're going to decide from there what we need to do next as far as for restoration. But the exciting thing is that today we've got three different camera angles to try to work from so that I can hopefully get a good shot of where each spot is on here when we're taking this apart. And again, this is probably more something that somebody with a little bit of experience would try to do, not somebody who just randomly comes across one of these CRTs. But if you do want to look at and see what's going on inside, definitely take a watch on this video. But this is not something that you should really be doing as your first attempt to work on a CRT. All right, now let's jump in, get a closer look at the back. I have removed six different screws to this point. They were all Phillips head screws. And I've got a tray here. And actually just five of them have been removed. One of them up here, it would actually won't come out. So I think that there might be a piece of plastic broken there that's preventing us from getting them out. All right, we've got one screw still in, and then the five that have been removed are these four on the back panel. And there's one up at the top of the back. And you'll notice there still are quite a few down here at our input board. I've left those in place on purpose because there are two more screws that we need to get out first before we do anything else. And they are underneath on the bottom side of this monitor. I'm going to go ahead and warn you. In the first video, I told you how heavy this monitor was. And it's not easy to work on. So you have to be prepared to physically be able to move this around some to service it. So the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to tilt it on its side. And thankfully, it has some handles on each side that are heavy duty and will allow me to do that. I just need to move it up and over like that. And we can look at the bottom and the back of the monitor. Back here, we've got some screws, two more. And it doesn't be extremely difficult to get to without getting in here and flipping this on its side like this. You could flip it on its face, but that's a little bit more dangerous. I just recommend going on the side. So let's get these two screws out and then the ones on the input board. And then hopefully, we can just slide this shell off. And it won't be too difficult. All right, there's our second screw. And again, I don't really think it would be possible to get the shell off without tilting it on one of its sides. Now we're just going to have to tilt it back the way we could try to get the input board screws removed. All right, let's move this now back on its regular side. So that's all the screws that we can get out of the back of the shell. Hopefully, if we remove the six remaining screws on the input board, that will let us get that off. So that's what we'll do right now. And we'll see if we can get this shell open. Looking at this thing, I think I'm going to need to lay it down on its face. Now I've got a nice thick cushion. You lay it down on the screen side so that I can actually get the shell to lift up and off so that we tilt it down to that cushion. We've had kind of a breakthrough moment here. I think I finally got the shell loosened up and come in apart. Again, I had to flip it down on its face. I had to get all the screws out. The thing that was holding it up was the main screw at the top where the hairline crack was. I had to get that screw out. And the owner told me he didn't care too much about the plastic. So we did damage the corner plastic a little bit. I'll show you some pictures of that afterwards. We'll try to clean it up and make it not look so bad. The tricky thing is when you lift it, you can't use the handles. They're attached to the front of the frame. Just lift it up and pull that bad boy off and oh yeah, that thing, whoo, that is dirty. So we'll flip it over here. Let you get a better look at it because now I should be able to just flip it up. And we can start looking at all the beautiful things going on here. There we go. All right. Finally opened up and we'll take a look at the inside here. Look at some of the dust. Get some cameras set up at a different angle. Let you see what it looks like inside. Well, let's take a first look back here inside this NEC XM 29 and look at what we've got going on and there's a lot of stuff back here. So let's get a little closer and there's our anode cap and our deflection yoke assembly right here. Just a big layer of dust. You can see on there, pretty easy to see. Oh yeah. This definitely needs a cleaning. We've got a potentiometer here. I'm not quite sure what that goes to so I'm not just gonna spin it for no reason. So over here on our left side, under all this shielding, you'll notice a transformer right here, some large capacitors back there. This is gonna be our main power supply, I'm believing for this monitor because it's just so encased. I can't read the label down there. That's what I believe this is a fan so I wanted to show, kind of explain that. Look, there's one 12 volt DC 0.09 amp fan here and then I've got a second one installed above this board which is the RGB color board right here and then the one next to the input board down here that is extremely filthy and I think that's why it sounded so loud and it does sound so loud because it's three fans that are all kicking on together. So that's, it's probably changeable because it's a pretty common design for a fan. It's just a set of change in one we're gonna need to replace three fans now. So that's the power supply board. Let's get in here and see if we can look down into the, in there any. We've got kind of one board but it's daisy chained together a little bit in there if you'll notice it's brown on this side and then we've got a green circuit board on here. So technically it's two boards. This one has a lot of chips on it and this one looks to be our flyback and mostly our deflection. So like our vertical and horizontal deflection is gonna be for sure on that board and then that leads up to this board which also says it's deflection board on the side but man, just look at the amount of dust that's built up in here over the years and this will actually benefit from just a cleaning but it's not got an enormous or absurd amount of caps in it and the way it's designed, you can service almost one board at a time and then plug it back in and test it out before you move on. So that's a positive note on the servicing of this. This tube itself is made by or manufactured by NEC. So they made the tube in-house. We'll see who made the flyback when we get it out. There's a closer look at the backside of the deflection board, the secondary deflection board. A lot of transistors on that board it looks like. Thankfully, it's in good shape to begin with but NEC did a really good job of designing these at least to get a lot of the heat out that way the components would last as long as possible. Now this one will get hot, I'm sure but there's a lot of dust built up inside there and there are a lot of capacitors along that back into that board and inside there. Thankfully they're Rubicon, you can see actually 105 degree Celsius rating so they're really high end capacitors but 30 years of heat or 25 years of heat and use will wear them out, even the best ones. Now down here, we've got our video input output board some Toshiba and Sony chips in them and then on this board we've got surface mount capacitors and thankfully they are not in the high heat areas because I don't really wanna change those if they're not leaking but that might be something we'll have to look into also. We've got some switches and things we need to look at. I haven't taken off the control panel board yet but that can come out or the input board panel. There's our fan and then if we do look up on the back of the RGB board and zoom in, let's zoom in up here towards the top of this board and I can tell somebody's been in here and tried to service this at some point. Not very good, at least they didn't do a very good job. Looks like that's gonna be some solder problems so that'll definitely need to be touched up. See those bad poor solder joints? Not really cleaned well afterwards. So I don't know whether they went in there and those might be potentiometers or something else marked with an E on the board. We'll have to see. So that's a board that I'm concerned with that does need to be serviced. Maybe one of the first boards we look at this one and the side deflection board over here. Those are two that will most likely be starting with and my plan will be to start with the outside boards and then as I get each individual board, we'll look over here at the power board but as I get each one of these individual boards out, I'll be able to clean in around the spot and it's a great idea to service one board at a time on something this large just because if there's an issue after you service something and you've serviced all the boards at once, you have no idea where you need to go back to to maybe fix something that was damaged or that needed a repair. Let's see, we do have some tiny little five watt 16 ohm speakers here for our stereo audio that's built in. Neck board does not have any capacitors on it from what I can see in here but maybe that's why this daughter board over here or this main board has the capacitors in it and the color drives, et cetera, it looks like. And so it's just gonna be a very large project but I'm very glad we got it opened because in all seriousness, it needs a third of cleaning but that's how you get it open and now we just need to start tearing the boards out and working on those and cleaning them and everything so we'll do that next but that's how you get that shell off very, very difficult compared to just as easy PVMs. All right, see you guys next time with some more retro content.