 We just used our X-Tool P2 to engrave on some curved surfaces and we'll show you how we did it right now. What is up? Welcome back. Do you like to do a build or make it? So do we. And we have a new video each week. This week we're going to throw a curveball at our new X-Tool P2. Yeah, we're testing out some of the new features of the P2 and one of those is the curved surface engraving. So it keeps that aspect ratio no matter whether it's on the side, the bottom and back up the other side. So we've done a little testing. We learned a lot. A lot. It took us most of the day yesterday just to test out different things. So we've got some tips and tricks that we want to show you and just a basic detailed explanation of what it can and can't do. Before we start our first project we thought we'd share a little more about what it can and can't do. So it will engrave concave and convex surfaces without the risers. It'll do objects up to two inches tall, which is what this bowl is. It's like right at two inches. It does like mellow surfaces. It likes nice rounded mellow surfaces below a 45 degree angle. It doesn't like abrupt height changes. It doesn't like really sharp angles or in sloping angles at all. It throws it off. It'll also engrave up to eight inches by eight inches. So this curved surface is only, well, this is exactly eight inches wide right here. And what would we say four inches tall? Four inches. So I guess like two of these. Yeah, that's not too bad. Not a bad size, but it's not the full size of the bed. And it likes SVGs or vector graphics. It really won't do engraving of a raster graphic or a PNG. And once you convert your area to the curved surface, your speed is limited to 30 millimeters per second. So it's pretty slow. So you will have to adjust your power to match the new speed settings. And now this is just for this curved surface engraving. So the P2 does do raster graphics and SVGs. But in the curved surface or inside of a bowl, you're going to have to stick to that SVG. Yeah, it currently doesn't do a PNG. Yeah. One more thing I wanted to share with you that right now X-Tool is doing their mid-year promotion and their Father's Day sale through June 20 seconds. You can get the lowest price of the year on this X-Tool P2. They are no longer in pre-order. You can go online and submit your order. It's live. Live. For our test project today, we'll be using this little dish. It's got a nice little concave to it. It'll be perfect for testing. Step one, we're going to remove the slats from the bed. Now with something, this is less than two inches. Maybe you don't need to remove the slats. We didn't test it. The instructions said remove your slats. So that's what we're doing. And Kim's a rule follower. So that's what we're doing. That's what we're doing. Some material in the laser bed. We're going to close the lid and we don't need to open it again during the measurement process. I'm going to leave the lid open because we're going to try to videotape this. We're going to select curve process mode and curve measure in creative space. And next we're going to set the area to be measured. Now here you can see before we start moving our red dot pointer that the distance per click is 100 millimeters per click. But we're going to change that to somewhere around 10 or less as we fine tune these measurements or movements of the red dot pointer. So we're going to first start with our pointer in the upper left vertex of the area to be measured. And then once we get it exactly where we wanted here, we're going to click mark to mark vertex one. Next we're going to move the laser head to the opposite corner. We're going to move the laser module to make the red spot fall at the lower right vertex and click mark to mark vertex two. Now that you have both vertices marked, I really just want to say vertices. You can click next. Now creative space is going to measure the area that we've selected. It's going to set a measurement density. This is the grid that you're seeing here and you can adjust that grid if you want to. But the recommended density is provided based on the size of the area. Now the higher the density or the more columns and rows, the more precise the model will be and the longer the measurement time. Next we're going to click start measuring and then we can watch the measurement progress. You can see each of these dots turn green as it measures. And you can also see the laser head move and take a little picture of each dot. And then once it's complete, you're going to click done to save the model. And after the full measurement process is complete, you can now see a 3D image of your cutting area, your engraving area. Yeah, your engraving area I guess. You can drag it around to look at all sides of this thing or there's a 2D version. Yes, and then you can adjust this if you want by adjusting the smoothness and the tension. Now it sets the recommended smoothness and tension and we haven't played with these settings yet because this is our first test of this. But the recommended settings were good for our projects. Now again, just a reminder the camera is not needed during this process. So you do not need to make sure that your image is sitting exactly on the item in the camera view. You don't need to measure that. You don't need the camera at all. Like actually when I measured it, it kind of blanked my camera out and it just gave me that active engrave area, the area that wasn't grayed out. Right, and if you do put it on your image, you might see a distorted view and you're going to think that it's not set properly, but it really is. The best way to check if you're engraving is falling where you want it is to go back to the model preview and check it out that way. You'll be able to see where it lands in that curvature and if it's in the recommended space. Yep, that's it. Next thing we're going to do is import the object to be processed. We're going to place the object inside the area to be processed. This is the non shaded area. And then we'll set the parameters, our score versus engrave and then our power and speed. Now remember your maximum speed is 30 millimeters per second. So on most engravings, I do like 150 to 200 millimeters per second. So for this, I'm going to have to back my power way down and we're going to try 30 millimeters per second and 20% power. And we're going to leave it at one pass and then we're going to click process. The llamas came out great. Maybe we didn't need to use so much power. We did a few more test projects and I'll show you, we back the power down on this one to 15% power. Is that right? 15% power. And these look great. We did the next two with 15%. I love how this does really take your image from edge to edge. It does a great job coming down the sides with no distortion. The llamas are adorable. I love that. The llamas came out great. So like I said, here's one. This is like a great Father's Day gift. It's personalized. It's got Garrett's name on it. Here, happy Father's Day. Oh, thanks babe. We also tried a spoon. So wanted to share a few of our lessons learned with this spoon. Yep. Well, when you do a measurement, it's got to be a square. And to get the full area of a circle of a swirl, you had to come out to the edges. And it would have a sharp drop off and give us an error unless we gave it something level with the spoon to bounce off of. Right. The measurement square could sit inside here, but the image would be really small. If I wanted the image to go edge to edge, like this spoon, I had to give it a platform to measure the square corners outside of the circle. So we did that. Garrett was smart enough to go find this little piece of foam and sets the foam at the top of the spoon at a pretty much the same height. And it was able to measure everything. The whole, what was that? The little grid. Yeah. So basically it measured it and then the circle came out beautifully. The burn marks you see on the inside where we tried the first version of this and the image was very small on the inside. So we figured it out. We also tried a really warped piece of plywood to see if I would be able to engrave on it, see if we could sew with some of this stuff. And there isn't a cut feature using the curved surface, but the score feature is slow enough that you can actually cut through eighth inch. Oh, so you scored through. Yeah, I scored through, not necessarily cut through. Interesting. In the score settings, I was able to select 20 millimeters per second, but at 100% power and it went right through this eighth inch bolted birch. We'll show you some close ups of these images or of these objects that we engraved. But here you can see this is kind of a waving flag. I think that was your thought process there. I thought I have a wavy piece of plywood. Why not put a flag on it? Make it look like a waving flag. Yeah. And they look great. The other things we haven't had an opportunity to try, we had a couple of bowls that were larger than two inches. So we'll be able to do these once we get the risers. I originally brought this bowl to Garrett and said, hey, I want to do this one, but I do not think it's going to engrave on this one. She's like, let's start with boiling the ocean. I think this is a little higher than 45 degrees. Again, we haven't tried it because it won't fit in there without the risers yet. But if you're doing smaller dishes, you know, gift items like the spoons or the trays, they'll go in there with no risers needed. Well, we are about out of time. So if you're not going to join us for the patron after show, we will see you next week. We'll do it, build it, and make it again. Oh, and don't forget about Test Cut Tuesdays. They're back. We're back from our move. Test Cut Tuesdays. We did Test Cut Taco Tuesday this week. Test Cut Taco Tuesday. The spoon is an easy one.