 Section 1 of a Ladies' Visit to the Gold Diggings of Australia. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information, auto-volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. A Ladies' Visit to the Gold Diggings of Australia by Ellen Closie. Introductory Remark. It may be deemed presumptuous that one of my age and sex should venture to give to the public an account of personal adventures in a land which is so often been discounted upon by others and able appends. But when I reflect on the many mothers, wives and sisters in England whose hearts are ever longing for information respecting the dangers and privations to which their relatives at the antipodes are exposed, I cannot but hope that the presumption of my undertaking may be pardoned in consideration of the pleasure which an accurate description of some of the Australian goldfields may perhaps afford to many. And although the time of my residence in the colonies was short, I had the advantage, not only in Melbourne but whilst in the bush, of constant intercourse with many experienced diggers and old colonists, thus having every facility for acquiring information respecting Victoria and the other colonies. It was in the beginning of April 1850 blank that the excitement occasioned by the published accounts of the Victoria Diggings induced my brother to fling aside his Homer and Euclid for the various guides printed for the benefit of the intending gold seeker, or to ponder over the shipping columns of the daily papers. The love of adventure must be contagious. Four or three weeks after, so rapid were our preparations, found myself accompanying him to those oriferous regions. The following pages will give an accurate detail of my adventures there. In a lack of the marvellous will consist their principal faults, but not even to please will I venture to turn uninteresting truth into agreeable fiction. Of the few statistics which occur, I may safely say, as of the more personal portions, that they are strictly true. The voyage out. Everything was ready, boxes packed, tinned and corded, farewells taken, and our self whirling down by rail to Graves End. Too much excited, too full of the future, to experience that sickening of the heart, that desolation of feelings which usually accompanies an expatriation, however voluntary, from the dearly loved shores of one's native land. Although in the cloudy month of April, the sun shone brightly on the masts of our bonny bark, which lay in full sight of the windows of the old Falcon, where we had taken up our temporary quarters. The sea was very rough, but as we were anxious to get on board without further delay, we entrusted our valuable lives in a four-word boat, despite the dismal prognostications of our worthy host. A pleasant row that was. At one moment, covered over with saltwater, the next riding on top of a wave, ten times the size of our frail conveyance, then came a sudden concussion. In veering, our rudder smashed into a smaller boat, which immediately filled and sank, and our rowers disheartened that this mishap would go no further. The return was still rougher. My face smarted dreadfully from the cutting splashes of the saltwater. They contrived, however, to land us safely at the old Falcon. There were the most pitiable plight, charging only a sovereign for this delightful trip, very moderate considering the number of saltwater bars they had given us gratis. In the evening, a second trial proved more successful, and we reached our vessel safely. A first night on board ship has in it something very strange, and the first awakening in the morning is still more so. To find oneself in a space of some six feet by eight, instead of a good-sized room, and lying in a cot scarce wide enough to turn round in, as a substitute for a four-post bedstead, reminds you in no very agreeable manner that you have exchanged the comforts of old England for the roughing it of a sea life. The first sound that awoke me was the cheerily song of the sailors, as the anchor was heaved, not again we trusted to be lowered till our eyes should rest on the waters of Port Phillip. And then the cry of raised taxon sheets, which I, in nautical ignorance, interpreted as haste taxon sheep, said many a sluggard from their booths to bid a last farewell to the banks of the Thames. In the afternoon, we parted company with our steam-tug, and next morning, whilst off the Isle of Wight, our pilot also took his departure. Sea sickness now became the fashion, but as I cannot speak from experience of its sensations, I shall altogether decline the subject. On Friday the 30th, we sighted Stark Point, and as the last speck of English land faded away in the distance, an intense feeling of misery crept over me, as I reflected that Pachanza had left those most dear to return to them no more. But I forget, a description of private feelings is, to one interested reader, only so much twaddle, besides being more egotistical that even an account of personal adventures could extenuate. So, with the exception of a few extracts from my log, I shall jump at once from the English Channel to the more exciting shores of Victoria. Wednesday, May the 5th, latitude 45 degrees 57 minutes north, longitude 11 degrees 45 minutes west. Whilst off the Bay of Biscay, for the first time, I had the pleasure of seeing the phosphoric light in the water, and the effect was indeed too beautiful to describe. I gazed again and again, and as the darkness above became more dense, the silence of evening more profound, and the moving lights beneath more brilliant, I could have believed them the eyes of the undenes, who had quitted their cool guajos beneath the sea to gaze on the daring ones who were sailing above them. At times one of these stars of the ocean seemed to linger around our vessel, as I loathed to leave the admiring eyes that watched its glittering progress. Sunday the 9th, latitude 37 degrees 53 minutes north, longitude 15 degrees 32 minutes west. Great excitement throughout the ship. Early in the morning a homeward bound sail hove inside, and as the sea was very calm, our captain kindly promised to lower a boat and send letters by her. What a scene then commenced, nothing but scribes and writing desks met the viewer, and naught was heard but the scratching of pens and energetic demands for foreign letter paper, festers or ceiling ranks. Then came a rush on deck to witness the important packet delivered to the care of the first mate, and watch the progress of the little bark that was to bear among so many homes a glad tidings of our safety. On she came, her stunned sail said, her white sails glittering in the sun, skimming like a sea bird over the waters. She proved to be the multi-scooner Felix, bound for Bremen. Her captain treated the visitors from our ship with the greatest politeness, promised to consign our letters to the first pilot he should encounter off the English coast, and sent his very last oranges as a present to the ladies, for which we sincerely thanked him. The increasing heat of the weather made them acceptable indeed. Wednesday the 12th, latitude 33 degrees 19 minutes north, longitude 17 degrees 30 minutes west. At about noon, we sighted those Madeira. At first it appeared little more than a dark cloud above the horizon. Gradually the sides of the rocks became clearly discernible, then the wind bore us onward, and soon all traces of the sunny hour were gone. Friday the 28th, latitude 4 degrees 2 minutes north, longitude 21 degrees 30 minutes west. Another opportunity of sending letters, but as this was the second time or so doing, the excitement was proportionately diminished. The vessel was bound for the port of Liverpool from the coast of Africa. Her cargo, so said those of our fellow travellers who boarded her, consisted of ebony and gold dust, her only passengers being monkeys and parrots. Sunday, June the 6th, longitude 24 degrees 38 minutes west, crossed the line to the great satisfaction of all on board, as we had been bicarred more than a week, and were weary of gazing upon the unruffled waters around us, or watching the sails as they hardly flapped to and through. Chess, backgammon, books and cards had ceased to be gnarly hours away, and the only amusement left was lowering a boat and rowing about within a short distance of the ship. But this, even by those not pulling on the oars, was considered too fatiguing work, for a tropical sun was above us, and the heat was most intense. Our only resource was to give ourselves up to a sort of dolce fa neante existence, and lounge upon the deck, sipping lemonade or lime juice beneath a large awning which extended from four to the mizzen masts. Tuesday, August the 7th, latitude 39 degrees 28 minutes south, longitude 136 degrees 31 minutes east. Early this morning one of the sailors died, and before noon the last services of the Church of England were read over his body. This was the first and only death that occurred during our long passage, and the solemnity of committing his last remains to their watery grave cast a saddening influence over the most thoughtless. I shall never forget the moment when the sign-up hammock, with a gaily coloured flag wrapped around it, was launched into the deep. Those who can witness within difference a funeral on land would I think find it impossible to resist the thrilling oars inspired by such an event at sea. Friday the 20th, latitude 38 degrees 57 minutes south, longitude 140 degrees 5 minutes east. Sighted moonlight head the next day came hot way, and in the afternoon of Sunday the 22nd we entered the heads and our pilot came on board. He was a smart active fellow and immediately anchored us within the bay, a heavy gale brewing. And then, after having done colonial justice to a substantial dinner, he edified us with the last Melbourne news. Not a spare room or bed to be had, no living at all under a pound a day, everyone with ten fingers making ten to twenty pounds a week. Then of course no one goes to the diggings. Ah, that pays better still, the gold obliged to be quarried, a pound white of no value. The excitement that evening can scarcely be imagined, but it's somewhat abated next morning on his telling us to diminish his accounts some two hundred percent. Monday the 23rd, the wind high and blowing right against us, compelled to remain at anchor, only true thankful to be in such safe quarters. Tuesday the 24th, content away at half past seven in the morning, and past the wrecks of two vessels whose captains had attempted to come in without a pilot, rather than wait for one. The increased number of vessels arriving, causing the pilots to be frequently all engaged. The bay, which is truly splendid, was crowded with shipping. In a few hours, our anchor was lowered for the last time. Boats were pulled off towards our ship from Lyad at speech. We were lowered into the first that came alongside. A twenty minute pull to the landing place, another minute and we trod the golden shores of Victoria. End of section one. Stay in Melbourne. At last we are in Australia. Our feet feel strange as they tread upon terra firma, and our sea legs, to use a sailor's phrase, are not so ready to leave us after a four month service as we should have anticipated. But it matters little, for we are in the colonies, walking with undignified awkward gait, not on a fashionable promenade, but upon a little wooden pier. The first sounds that greet our ears are the noisy tones of some watermen, who are loitering on the building of wooden logs and boards, which we, as do the good people of Victoria, dignify with the undeserved title of pier. There they stand in their waterproof caps and skins, tolerably idle and exceedingly independent, with one eye on the look out for a fair, and the other cast longingly towards the open doors of Lyadet's public house, which is built a few yards from the landing place and alongside the main road to Melbourne. I, skipper, times isn't as they used to was, shouted one, addressing the captain of one of the vessels then lying in the bay, who was rowing himself to shore, with no other assistant or companion than a sailor boy. The captain, a well-built, fine-looking specimen of an English seaman, merely laughed at this impromptu salutation. I say, skipper, I don't quite like that, the stroke of yours. No answer, but as if completely deaf to these remarks, as well as the insulting tone in which they were delivered, the skipper continued giving his orders to his boy, and then leisurely ascended the steps. He walked straight up to the waterman, who was lounging against the railing. So, my fine fellow, you didn't quite admire that stroke of mine. Now I have another stroke that I think you'll admire still less, and with one blow he sent him reeling across the railing on the opposite side. The waterman slowly recovered his equilibrium, muttering, that was a safe dodge, as the gentleman knew he was the heaviest man of the two. Then never let your tongue say what your fist can't defend, was the cool retort. As another blow sent him staggering to his original place, amidst the unrestrained laughter of these companions, whilst the captain unconcernedly walked into Liadets, wither we also betook ourselves, not a little surprised and amused by this outfirst introduction to colonial customs and manners. The fact is, the waterman regard the masters of the ships in the bay as foreign enemies to their business. Many are runaway sailors, and therefore, I suppose, have a natural antipathy that way, added to which, besides being no customers themselves, the skippers, by the loan of their boats, often save their friends from the exorbitant charges these watermen levy. Exorbitant they truly are, not a boat would they put off for the nearest ship in the bay for less than a pound, and before I quitted those regions, two and three times that some was often demanded for only one passenger. We had just paid at the rate of only three shillings and six men's each, but this trifling charge was in consideration of the large party, more than a dozen who had left our ship in the same boat together. Meanwhile, we have entered Liadets, in attendant, the Melbourne Omnibus. Some of our number, too impatient to wait longer, had already started on foot. We were shown into a clean, well furnished sitting room, with mahogany dining table and chairs, and a showy glass over the mantelpiece. An English looking barmaid entered, with the company like some wine or spirits. Someone ordered cherry, of which I only remember that it was vile trash at age shillings a bottle. And now the cry of here's the bus brought us quickly outside again, where we found several new arrivals also waiting for it. I had hoped from the name, or rather misname, at the conveyance to gladden my eyes with the sight of something civilised, a lass for my disappointment. There stood a long, tumble to pieces, looking wagon, not covered in, with a plank down each side to sit upon, and a miserable, narrow plank it was. Into the vehicle were crammed a dozen people, and a numerable host, a portmanteuse, large and small, carpet bags, baskets, brown paper parcels, birdcage and ennote, etc. All of which, as is generally the case, were packed in a manner the most calculated to contribute the largest amount of inconvenience to the live portion of the cargo, and to drag this grand affair into Melbourne, where harnessed thereto the most wretched looking objects in the shape of horses that I have ever beheld. A slight roll tells us we are off. And is this the beautiful scenery of Australia was my first melancholy reflection, mud and swamp, swamp and mud, relieved here and there by some few trees, which looked as starved and miserable as ourselves. The cattle we passed appeared in a wretched condition, and the human beings on the road seemed all to belong to one family, so truly Vandemonian was the cast of their countenances. The rainy seasons not over observed the driver in an apologetic tone. Our eyes and uneasy limbs most feelingly corroborated his statement, for as we moved along at a foot pace, the rolling of the omnibus owing to the deep ruts and heavy soil brought us into most unpleasant contact with the various packages before mentioned. On we went towards Melbourne, now stopping for the unhappy horses to take breath, then passing our pedestrian mesmates, and now arriving at a small specimen of a swamp, and whilst they, with trousers tucked high above the knees and boots well saturated, step, slide and tumble manfully through it. We give a fearful roll to the left, ditto ditto to the right, in a regular standstill, or perhaps by way of variety, are all but dolphin over the animals heads, till at length all minor considerations of bumps and bruises are merged in the anxiety to escape with our broken bones. The Yarra said the conductor, I look straight ahead, and innocently asked, where, for I could only discover a tract of marsh or swamp, which I fancy must have resembled the fens of Lincolnshire, as they were some years ago before draining was introduced into that country. Over Princess Bridge we now passed up Sponson Street, then into Great Burke Street, and now we stand opposite the post office, the appointed rendezvous with the walkers, who are there awaiting us, splashed wet and tired, and also, I must confess, very cross, right thankful was I to be carried over the dirty road and be safely deposited beneath me. We are now at the wooden portico, outside the post office. Our ride to Melbourne cost us only half a crown apiece, and a shilling for every parcel. The distance we had come was between two and three miles. The non-arrival of the mail steamer left us now, no other care safe, the all-important one of procuring food and shelter. Scouts were accordingly dispatched to the best hotels. They returned with long faces, full. The second rate, and in fact, every respectable inn and boarding or lodging house were tried but with no better success. Here and there a solitary bed could be obtained, but for our digging party entire, which consisted of my brother, four shipmates, and myself, no accommodation could be procured, and we wished, if possible, to keep together. It's a case, ejaculated one, casting his eyes to the slight roof above us, as if calculating what sort of night shelter it would afford. At this moment, the two last searches approached. Their countenances not quite so woe begun as before. Well exclaimed we all in chorus, as we surrounded them, too impatient to interrogate at greater length. Thank heavens they had been successful. The housekeeper of the surgeon, who with his wife had just gone up to Forest Creek, would receive us to board and lodge for thirty shillings a week each. But as the accommodation was of the indifferent order, it was not as yet, you didn't appear arranging. On father inquiry, we found the indifferent accommodation consisted, in their being, but one small sleeping room for the gentleman, and myself, to share the bed and apartment of the temporary mistress. His was vastly superior to Gypsying in the dirty streets, so we lost no time in securing our new births, and erred very long, with appetites undiminished by these petty anxieties. We did ample justice to the dinner, which our really kind hostess quickly placed before us. The first night on shore, after so long a voyage, could scarcely seem otherwise than strange. One missed the eternal rocking, at which so many grumble on board ship. Dogs, Melbourne is full of them, kept up an incessant barking. Revolvers were cracking in all directions until daybreak, giving one a pleasant idea of the state of society. Unless, not least, of these annoyances was one unmentionable to ease polite, which would alone have sufficed to drive sleep away from poor, weary me. How I envied my companion, as accustomed to these disagreeables, she slept soundly by my side, but morning at length dawned, and I fell into a refreshing slumber. The next few days were busy ones for all, though rather dismal to me, as I was confined almost entirely within doors, owing to the awful state of the streets. For in the colonies at this season of the year, one may go out prepared for fine weather, with blue sky above and dry underfoot. And in less than an hour, should a colonial shower come on, they are unable to cross some of the streets without a plank being placed from the middle of the road to the pathway, or the alternative of walking in water up to the knees. This may seem a dullful and overdrawn picture of my first colonial experience, but we had arrived at a time when the colony presented its worst aspect to a stranger. The rainy season had been unusually protracted this year. In fact, it was not yet considered entirely over, and the gold mines had completely upset everything and everybody, and put a stop to all improvements about the town or elsewhere. Our party, on returning to the ship the day after our arrival, witnessed the French lead taking of all her crew, who during the absence of the captain, jumped overboard, and were quickly picked up and landed by the various boats about. This desertion of the ships by the sailors is an everyday occurrence. The diggings themselves, or the large amount they could obtain for the run home from another master, offer too many temptations. Consequently, our passengers had the amusement of hauling up from the hold their different goods and chattels. And so great was the confusion that fully a week elapsed before they all got to shore. Meanwhile, we were getting initiated into colonial prices. Money did indeed take to itself wings and fly away. Firearms were at a premium. One instance, wools of ice. My brother sold a six barrel grove over for which he had given sixty shillings and bakers in Fleet Street for sixteen pounds, and the parting with it at that price was looked upon as a great favour. Imagine boots, and they, very second-rate ones, at four pounds a pair. One of our between-deck passengers, who had speculated with a small capital of forty pounds in boots and cutlery, told me afterwards that he had disposed of them the same evening he had landed at a net profit of ninety pounds. No trifling addition to a poor man's purse. Labour was at a very high price. Carpenters, boot and shoemakers, tailors, wheelwrights, joiners, smiths, glaciers, and, in fact, all useful trades were earning from twenty to thirty shillings a day. The very men working on the roads could get eleven shillings per diem, and many a gentleman in this disarranged state of affairs was glad to fling old habits aside and turn his hand to whatever came readiest. I knew one in particular whose brother is at this moment serving as colonel in the army in India, a man more fitted for a gay London life than a residence in the colonies. The diggings were too dirty and uncivilised for his taste. His capital was quickly dwindling away beneath the expenses of the comfortable life he led at one of the best hotels in town, so he turned to what as a boy he had learnt for amusement and obtained an addition to his income of more than four hundred pounds a year as house carpenter. In the morning you might see him trudging off to his work, and before night might meet him at some ball or sari among the elite of Melbourne. I shall not attempt an elaborate description of the town of Melbourne or its neighbouring villages. A subject so often and well discussed might almost be admitted altogether. The town is very well laid out, the streets, which are all straight, running parallel, with and across one another, are very wide, but are incomplete, not lighted, and many are unpaved. Owing to the want of lands, few, except when full moon, dare stir out after dark. Some of the shops are very fair, but the goods all partake too largely at the flesh order. For the purpose of suiting the taste of successful diggers, their wives and families, it is ludicrous to see them in the shops, men who, before the gold mines were discovered, toiled hard for their daily bread, taking off half a dozen thick gold rings from their fingers, and trying to pull on to their rough, well hardened hands, the best white kids to be worn at some wedding party. Whilst the wife, proud of the novel ornament, discounts on the folly of hiding them beneath such useless articles as gloves. The two principal streets are Collins Street and Elizabeth Street. The former runs east and west, the latter crossing it in the centre. Melbourne is built on two hills, and the view from the top of Collins Street east is very striking on a fine day, when well filled with passengers and vehicles. Down the aisle passes till it reaches Elizabeth Street at the foot, then up again, and the moving mass seems like so many tiny black specks in the distance, and the country beyond looks but a little piece of green. A great deal of confusion arises from the want of their names being painted on the corners of the streets. To a stranger, this is particularly inconvenient. The more so as being straight, they appear all alike on first acquaintance. The confusion is also increased by the same title, with slight variation, being applied to so many as, for instance, Collins Street East, Collins Street West, Little Collins Street East, Little Collins Street West, etc., etc. Churches and chapels for all sex and denominations meet the eye, but the established church has, of all, the worst provision for its members. Only two small churches being as yet completed, and Sunday after Sunday do numbers return from St Peter's, unable to obtain even standing room beneath the porch. For the gay, there are two circuses and one theatre, where the ladies who frequent at smoke short tobacco pipes in the boxes and dress circle. The country round is very pretty, particularly Richmond and Collingwood. The latter will, I expect, soon become part of Melbourne itself. It is situated at the fashionable, that is, East, end of Melbourne, and the buildings of the city and this suburban village are making rapid strides towards each other. Of Richmond, I may remark that it does possess a star and garter, though a very different affair to its namesake at the antipodes, being only a small public house. On the shores of the bay, at nice driving distances, are Brighton and St Kilda. Two or three fall to pieces, bathing machines, are at present the only stocking trade of these watering places. Still, should some would be fashionable among my readers, desire to emigrate, it may gratify them to learn that they need not forego the pleasure of visiting Brighton in the season. When I first arrived, as the weather was still very cold and wet, my greatest source of discomfort arose from the want of cold fires and the drafts, which are innumerable, owing to the slight manner in which the houses are run up. Some of the front entrances opens direct into the sitting rooms, very unpleasant, and entirely precluding the not-at-home to an unwelcome visitor. Wood fires have at best but a cheerless look, and I often long for the bright blaze and merry fireside of an English home. Firewood is sold at the rate of fifty shillings for a good-sized barrow fall. The colonists, I here speak at the old established ones, are naturally very hospitable and disposed to receive strangers with great kindness, but the present ferment has made them forget everything in the glitter of their own minds, and all comfort is laid aside. Money is the idol, and making it is the one mania which absorbs every other thought. The walking inhabitants are of themselves a study, glancing to the streets, all nations, classes, and costumes are represented there. Chinaman with pigtails and loose trousers, Aborigines with a solitary blanket flung over them, Vandemonian pickpockets with cunning eyes and light fingers, all in truth from the successful digger in his blue-seared shirt, and with green veil still hanging round his wide awake to the fashionable, attired, newly arrived gent from London, who steers around him in amazement and disgust. You may see, and hear too, some thoroughly colonial scenes in the streets. Once in the middle of the day when passing up Elizabeth Street, I heard the unmistakable sound of a mob behind, and as it was gaining apodemy, I turned into the enclosed ground in front of the Roman Catholic Cathedral to keep out of the way of the crowd. A man had been taken up for hoof stealing, and a rare ruffianly set of both sexes were following the prisoner and the two policemen who had him in charge. If the six of you were of my mind shouted one, at this moment you'd release him. The crowd took the hint, and to it they set with right good will, yelling, swearing, and pushing with awful violence. The owner of the stolen horse got up a counter demonstration, and every few yards the procession was delayed by a trial of strength between the two parties. Ultimately the police conquered, but this is not always the case, and often lives are lost and limbs broken in the struggle. So weak is the force maintained by the colonial government for the preservation of order. Another day when passing the post office, a regular tropical shower of rain came on rather suddenly, and I hastened up to the platform for some choker. As I stood there looking out into Great Berks Street, a man, and I suppose his wife passed by. He had a letter in his hand for the post, but as the pathway to the receiving box looked very muddy, he made his companion take it to the box, whilst he himself, from beneath his umbrella, complacently watched her getting wet through. Colonial politeness, thought I, as the happy couple walked on. Sometimes a jovial wedding party comes dashing through the streets. There they go, the bridegroom with one arm round his lady's waist, the other raising a champagne bottle to his lips. The gay vehicles that follow contain company, even more unrestrained, and from them noisier demonstrations of merriment may be heard. These diggers' weddings are all the rage, and bridal veils, white kid gloves, and above all, orange blossoms are generally most difficult to procure at any price. At times you may see men half mad, like half pants, out of their pockets into the streets, and I once saw a digger who was looking over a large quantity of banknotes deliberately tear to pieces and trample in the mud under his feet every soiled or ragged one he came to, squaring all the time at the gold brokers for giving him dirty paper money for pure Alexander gold. He wouldn't carry dirt in his pocket, not he, thank God, he'd plenty to tear up and spend too. Melbourne is full of Jews. On a Saturday some of the streets are half closed. There are only two porn brokers in the town. The most thriving trade there is keeping an hotel or public house, which always have a lamp before their doors. These at night serve as a beacon to the stranger to keep as far from them as possible, they being, with few exceptions, the resort after dark, of the most ruffianly characters. On the 2nd of September the long expected mail steamer arrived, and two days after we procured our letters from the post office. I may hear remark that the want of proper management in this department is the greatest cause of inconvenience to pressure rivals, and to the inhabitants of Melbourne generally. There is one small window when letters directed to lie at the office are given out, and as the ships from England daily discharge their living cargoes into Melbourne, the crowd round this inefficient delivering place rendered getting one's letters the work, not of hours but days. Several ones have, it would appear, a remarkable facility for being lost en route. Several numbers of the illustrated London news had been sent me, and although the letters posted with them arrived in safety, the papers themselves never made their appearance. I did hear that, when addressed to an uncolonial name, and with no grander direction than the post office itself, the clerks are apt to appropriate them. This is, perhaps, only a wee bit of Melbourne scandal. The arrival of our letters from England left nothing now to detain us, and made us all anxious to commence our trip to the Diggings, although the roads were in an awful condition. Still we would delay no longer, and the bustle of preparation begun. Stores of flour, tea and sugar, tents and canvas, camp ovens, cooking utensils, tin plates and panikins, opossum rugs and blankets, grays, carts and horses, cradles etc. etc. had to be looked at, bought and paid for. On board ship my brother had joined himself to a party of four young men, who had decided to give the Diggings a trial. Four other of our shipmates had also joined themselves into a digging party, and when they heard of our intended departure, proposed travelling up together and separating on our arrival. This was settled, and a proposal made that between the two sets, they should raise funds to purchase a tray and horses, and make a speculation in flour, tea etc. on which an immense profit was being made at the Diggings. It would also afford the convenience of taking up tents, cradles and other articles impossible to carry up without. The tray cost £100, and the two strong cart horses, £90 and £100 respectively. This, with the goods themselves and a few sundries in the shape of harness and cords, made only a venture of about £50 a piece. While these arrangements were rapidly progressing, a few other parties wished to join ours for safety on the road, which was agreed too, and the day fixed upon for the departure was the 7th of September. Everyone, except myself, was to walk, and we furthermore determined to camp out as much as possible, and thus avoid the vicinity of the inns and hulking places on the way, which are frequently the lurking places of thieves and bush rangers. On the Sunday previous to the day on which our journey was to commence, I had a little adventure, which pleased me at the time, though but for the sequel, not worth mentioning here. I had walked with my brother and a friend to St Peter's Church, but we were a few minutes behind time, and therefore could find no unoccupied seat. Thus disappointed, we strolled over Princess Bridge onto the other side of the Yarra. Between the bridge and the beach on the south side of the river is a little city of tents called Little Adelaide. They were inhabited by a number of families, that the rumour of the Victoria Gold mines had induced to leave South Australia, and whose finances were unequal to the high prices in Melbourne. Government levies attacks of five shillings a week on each tent, built upon land as wild and barren as the bleaters common in England. We did not wander this morning towards Little Adelaide, but followed the Yarra in its winding course inland, in the direction of the botanical gardens. Upon a gentle rise beside the river, not far enough away from Melbourne to be inconvenient, but yet sufficiently removed from its mud and noise, were pitched two tents, evidently new, with crimson paint still gay upon the round knobs of the centre posts, and looking altogether more in trim for a gala day in merry England than a trip to the diggings. The sun was high above our heads, and the day intensely hot, so much so that I could not resist the temptation of tapping at the camp's door to ask for a draught of water. A gentleman obeyed the summons, and on learning the occasion of this unceremonious visit, politely accommodated me with a camp stool and some delicious fresh milk, in Melbourne almost a luxury. Whilst I was inviving this with no little relish, my friends were entering into conversation with our new acquaintance. The tents belonged to a party just arrived by the steamer from England, with everything complete for the diggings, to which they meant to proceed in another week, and where I had the pleasure of meeting them again, though under different and very peculiar circumstances. The tent which I had invaded was inhabited by two, the elder of whom, a powerfully built man of thirty, formed a strong contrast to his companion, a delicate looking youth whose apparent age could not have exceeded sixteen years. After a short rest, we returned to Melbourne, well pleased with our little adventure. The next day was hardly long enough for our numerous preparations, and it was late before we retired to rest. Six was the hour appointed for the next morning's breakfast, excited with anticipating the adventures to commence on the morrow. No wonder that my dreams should all be golden months. End of Section 2. Section 3 of a Ladies' Visit to the Gold Diggings of Australia. This is the LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. A Ladies' Visit to the Gold Diggings of Australia by Ellen and Casey. Section 3. Camping Up Melbourne to the Black Forest. The anxiously expected morning at length commenced, and a dismal-looking morning it was, hazy and damp, with a small, drizzling rain, which from the gloomy aspect above seemed likely to last. It was not however sufficient to damp our spirits, and the appointed hour found us all assembled to attack the last meal that we anticipated to make for some time to come beneath the shelter of a ceiling. At eight o'clock our united party was to start from the Duke of York Hotel, and as that hour drew nigh, the unmistakable signs of something up attracted a few eyedlers to witness our departure. In truth we were a goodly party, and created no little sensation among the loungers, but I must regularly introduce our troop to my readers. First then I must mention two large strays, each drawn by a pair of stout horses, one the property of two Germans who were bound for Forest Creek, the other belonged to our self and shipmates. There were three pack horses, one laden with a speculation in brand, belonged to a queer-looking sailor who went by the name of Joe. The other two were under the care of a man known Gregory, who was going to rejoin his mates at Eagle Hawk Gulling. As his destination was the farthest, and he was well acquainted with the roads, he ought to have been elected leader, but from some mismanagement that dignity was conferred upon a stout old gentleman who had taken a pleasure trip to Mount Alexander the previous summer. Starting is almost always a tedious affair, nor was this particular case an exception. First one had forgotten something, another broke a strap, and a new one had to be procured. Then the drae was not properly packed, and must be rited. Someone else wanted an extra nobler, then a fresh, and still a fresh delay. So that although eight was the appointed hour, it was noon ere we bade farewell to my host at the Duke of York. At length the word of command was spoken. Foremost came the gallant captain, as we had dubbed him, and with him two ship doctors in partnership together, who carried the signs of their profession along with them in the shape of a most surgeon-like mahogany box. Then came two Germans, complacently smoking their mere chants, and attending to their drae and horses, which latter, unlike their masters, were of a very restless turn of mind. After these came a party of six, among whom was Gregory and two lively Frenchmen, who kept up an incessant chattering. Joe walked by himself, leading his pack horse. Then came our four shipmates, two by two, and last their own particular five. Most carried on their backs their individual property, blankets, provisions for the road, etc., rolled in a skin and fastened over the shoulders by Leavenstrap. This bundle goes by the name of Swag, and is the digger's usual accompaniment, it being too great a luxury to place upon a drae or pack horse anything not absolutely necessary. This will be easily understood when it is known that carriers during the winter obtain 120 pounds and sometimes 150 pounds a ton for conveying goods to Bendiga, about 100 miles from Melbourne. Nor was the sum exorbitant, as beside the chance of a few weeks' stick in the mud, they run great risk of injuring their horses or bullocks. Many invaluable beasts has been obliged to be shot where it stood, it being found impossible to extricate it from the mud and swamp. At the time we started, the sum generally demanded was about 70 pounds per ton. On the price of carriage up depended, of course, the price of provisions at the diggings. The weight of one of these swags is far from light. The preventer for the road itself is by no means trifling, though that of course diminishes by the way, and lightens the load a little. Still there are blankets, firearms, drinking and eating apparatus, clothing, chamois leather for the gold that has yet to be dug, and numberless other cumbersome articles necessary for the digger. In every belt was stuck either a large knife or a tomahawk, two-shouldered their guns, by the by rather imprudent, as the sight of firearms often brings down an attack. Some had thick sticks, fit fellow bullock, altogether we seemed well prepared to encounter an entire army of bush-rangers. I felt terribly comfortable perched upon our dry amid a mass of other soft lumber, a bag of flour formed an easy support to lean against. On either side I was well walled in by the canvas and poles of our tent, a large cheese made a convenient footstool. My attire, although well suited for the business on hand, would hardly have passed muster in any other situation. A dress of common dark blue surge, a felt wide awake and a waterproof coat wrapped round me, made a ludicrous assortment. Going along at a foot-piece, we descended Great Burke Street and made our first halt opposite the post office, where one of our party made a last effort to obtain a letter from his lady-love, which was a last unsuccessful. But we move on again, past the horse bazaar, turn into Queen Street, up we go towards Flemington, leaving the Melbourne Cemetery on our right and the Flagstaff a little to the left, and now our journey may be considered fairly begun. Just out of Melbourne, passing to the east of the Benevolent Asylum, we went over a little rise called Mount Pleasant, which on a damp sort of day with the rain beating about one, seemed certainly a misnomer. After about two miles, we came to a branch road leading to Pentridge, where the government convict establishment is situated. This we left on our right and threw a line of country thickly wooded, consisting of red and white gum, stringy bark, cherry and other trees. We arrived at Flemington, which is about three miles and a half from town. Flemington is a neat little village or township, consisting of about 40 houses, a blacksmith's shop, several stores and a good inn, built of brick and stone, with very fair accommodation for travellers and a large table and stockyards. After leaving Flemington, we passed several nice-looking homesteads, some are on a very large scale and belong to gentlemen connected with Melbourne who prefer living out of town. On reaching the top of the hill beyond Flemington, there is a fine view of Melbourne, the bay, Williamstown and the surrounding country, but the miserable weather prevented us at this time from properly enjoying it. Sunshine was all we need to have made this portion of our travels truly delightful. The road was nicely level, fine trees sheltered it on either side, while every now and then some rustic farmhouse was passed or coffee shop, temporarily erected of canvas or blankets, offered refreshments such as it was, and the latest news of the diggings to those who had no objection to pay well for what they had. This Flemington road, which is considered the most pleasant in Victoria or at least anywhere near Melbourne, is very good as far as Tulip Wright, which we now approached. Wright's public house is kept by the man whose name it bears. It is a rambling ill belt, but with all pleasing looking edifice, built chiefly of weatherboard and chingle, with a veranda all around. The whole is painted white, and whilst at some distance from it, a passing ray of sunshine gave it a most peculiar effect. In front of the principal entrance is a thundering large lamp, a most conspicuous-looking object. Wright himself was formerly in the police, and being a sharp fellow, obtained the cognobant of Tulip, by which both he and his house have always been known, and so as separable have the names become, that whilst Tulip Wright's is renowned well-known all over the colonies, the simple name of the owner would create some inquiries. The state of accommodation here may be gathered from the success of some of the party that made a penchant for noblers of branding. Nothing but bottled beer in the house. What can we have for dinner, inquired one, rather amused at this Hobson's choice state of affair? The eatables was only cold meat, and they couldn't cook nothing fresh, was the curt reply. Can we sleep here? Yes, under your drys. As we had literally determined to camp out on the journey, we passed on, without partaking of their cold eatables, or avowing ourself of their permission to sleep under our own drays, and leaving the road to Sydney on our right, and the one to Keele straight before us. We turned short off to the left toward the deep creek. Of the two rejected routes, I will give a very brief account. The right-hand road leads to Sydney via Kilmore, and many going to the Diggings prefer using this road as far as that township. The country about here is very flat, stony, and destitute of timber. Occasionally the journey is varied by a waterhole or surface spring. After several miles, a public house called the Lady of the Lake is reached, which is reckoned by many the best country in on this or any other road in the colonies. The accommodation is excellent, and the rooms will arrange, and independent of the house. There are ten or twelve rooms which ought to push could accommodate fifty or sixty people. Six are arranged in pairs for the convenience of married persons, and the fashionable trip during the honeymoon, particularly for Diggers' weddings, is to the Lady of the Lake. Whether Swalters' poem be the origin of the sign, or whether the swamps in the rear, I cannot say, but decidedly there is no lake and no lady, though I have heard of a Buxom lass, the landlord's daughter, who acts as barmaid, and is a great favour. This spot was the scene last May of a horrible murder, which has added no little to the notoriety of the neighbourhood. After several miles you at length arrive at Kilmore, which is a large and thriving township, containing two places of worship, several stores and inns. There is a resident magistrate with his staff of officials, and a station for a detachment of mounted police. Kilmore is on the main overland road from Melbourne to Sydney, and although not on the confines of the two colonies, is rather an important place from being the last main township till you reach the interior of New South Wales. The government buildings are commodious and well arranged. There are several farms and stations in the neighbourhood, but the country round is flat and swampy. The middle road leads you direct to Kilmore, and you must cross the deep creek in a dangerous part, as the banks thereabout are very steep, the stream though narrow very rapid, and the bottom stony. In 1851 the bridge, an ordinary log one, was washed down by the floods, and for two months all communication was cut off. Government have now put a punt which has worked backwards and forwards every half hour from six in the morning till six at night, at certain fares which are doubled after these hours. Those fares are for a passenger sixpence, a horse or bull, a shilling, a two wheel vehicle, one shilling and sixpence, a loaded tray, two shillings. The punt is tolerably well managed, except when the man gets intoxicated, not an infrequent occurrence. When there was neither bridge or punt, those who wished to cross were obliged to forward it, and so strong has been the current that horses have been carried down one or two hundred yards before they could affect the landing. Keeler is a pretty little village with a good inn, several nice cottages and a store or two. The country round is hilly and barren, scarcely any herbage, and that little is rank and course. The timber is very scarce. This road to the diggings is not much used, but to return to ourself, the rain and bad roads made travelling so very wearisome, that before we had proceeded far it was unanimously agreed that we should halt and pitch our first encampment. Pitch our first encampment? How charming! exclaimed some romantic reader, as though it were an easily accomplished undertaking. Fixing a gypsy tent as a fatesch on petre with a smiling sky above and all requisites ready to hand is one thing. An attempting to sink poles and erect tents out of blankets and rungs in a high wind and pelting rain is, if I may be allowed the colonialism, a horse of quite another colour. Some sort of sheltering places were at length completed. The horses were taken from the tray and tethered to some trees within sight, and then we made preparations for satisfying the unromantic cravings of hunger, symptoms of which we all more or less began to feel. With some difficulty afar was kindled and kept the light in the hollow trunk of an old gum tree. A damper was speedily made, which with a plentiful supply of steaks and boiled and roasted eggs was a supper no means to be despised. The eggs had been procured at four shillings a dozen from a farmhouse we had passed. It was certainly the most curious tea table at which I had ever assisted. Chairs, of course, there were none. We sat or lounged upon the ground as best suited our tired limbs, ten panicons holding about a pint, two of these tea cups, and plates of the same metal in lieu of china. A teapot was dispensed with, but a portless substitute there was in the shape of an immense iron kettle just taken from the fire and placed in the centre of our grand tea service, which being a new, a lively imagination might mistake for silver. Hot spirits, for those desirous of imbibing them, followed our substantial repast, the fatigue and the dreary weather had so completely damped all dispositions of too conviviality that a very short space of time found all fast asleep except the three unfortunes on watch, which was relieved every two hours. Wednesday, September the 8th, I awoke rather early this morning not feeling over comfortable for having slept in my clothes all night, which it is necessary to do on the journey so as to never be unprepared for any emergency. A small corner of my brother's tent had been partitioned off for my bedroom. It was quite dark, so my first act on waking was to push aside one of the blankets, still wet, which had been my roof during the night, and thus admit air and light into my apartment. Having made my toilet after a fashion, I joined my companions on the watch, who were deep in the mysteries of preparing something eatable for breakfast. I discovered that their efforts concentrated on the formation of a damper, which seems to have given them no little difficulty. A damper is the legitimate, and in fact the only bread of the bush, and should be made solely of flour and water, well mixed and kneaded into a cake, as large as you like, but not more than two inches in thickness, and then placed among the hot ashes to bake. If well made, it is very sweet and a good substitute for bread. The rain had, however, spoiled her ashes. The dough would neither rise or brown, so in despair we mixed the fixed batch of flour and water, and having fried some rashes of fat baked until lower nearly melted, we poured the batter into the pan and let it fry till done. This impromptu dish gave a general satisfaction. I was pronounced the cross between a pancake and a heavy, suet pudding. Breakfast over, our temporary residence were pulled down, the tray is loaded, and our journey recommenced. We soon reached the deep creek, and crossed by means of a punt, the charges being the same as the one at Keeler. Near here is the station belonging to Mr Riley, which is a happy specimen of a squash's home, everything being managed in a superior manner. The house itself is erected on a rise and surrounded by an extensive garden, vineyard and orchard, all well stopped and kept. Some beautifully enclosed paddocks reach to the creek, and give an English park-like appearance to the whole. The view from here over the bay and brightness splendid. You can almost distinguish Geelong. About a quarter of a mile off is a little hamlet with a neat Swiss-looking church built over a schoolroom on a rise of ground. It has a most peculiar effect and is the more singular as the economising the ground could not be a consideration in their colony. The rest of the church is a pretty little parsonage, white-washed with slate roof and green-painted window frames. I still fancy, although our redoubtable captain most strenuously denied it, that we had in some manner gone out of our way. However that may be, the road seemed worse and worse as we proceeded, and our pace became more tedious as here and there it was uphill work, till at length we reached the Keeler plains. There was almost disheartening to look upon that vast expanse of flat and dreary land except where the eye lingered on the purple sides of Mount Macedon which rose far distant in front of us. On entering the plains we passed two or three little farmhouses, coffee shops, etc., and encountered several parties coming home for a trip to Melbourne. For ten miles we travelled on dismally enough for it rained a great deal and we obliged to halt to get the horses' rest at a little. We now passed a coffee shop which although only consisting of a canvas tent and a little wooden shed has been known to accommodate over 40 people overnight. As there are always plenty of bad characters lounging in the neighbourhood of such places we kept at a respectful distance and did not make our final halt until two full miles further on our road. Tents were again pitched but owing to their not being fastened over securely, many of us got an unwished four-shower bath during the night. But this is nothing. At the antipodes one soon learns to laugh at such trifles. Tuesday the ninth. This morning or up the time some of our party being so sanguine is to anticipate making the bush in before evening. As we proceeded this hope quickly faded away. The keeler plains seemed almost impassable and what with pieces of rock here and a water hole there crossing them was more dangerous than agreeable. Now one passed a broken down drain then one's ears were horrified at the oath an unhappy white was venting at a mud hole into which he had stumbled. A comical object he looked as half sees over he attempted to pull on a mud-covered boot which he had just extricated from the hole where he and his leg had parted accompanying. A piece of wood which his imagination had transformed into a shoehorn was in his hand. Put it in the labored side suiting the action to the word there it goes dammit she won't come on. Put it in the star-bied side there it goes well done old girl and he triumphantly rose from the ground and reeled away. With a hearty laugh we proceeded on our road and after passing two or three coffee-tenths we arrived at Gregory's Inn. The landlord is considered the best on the road and is a practical example of what honesty and industry may have achieved. He commenced some nine months before without a shilling his tarpaulin tent and small stock of tea, sugar, coffee etc being alone. He has now a large weatherboard house capable of making up one hundred beds and even then unable to accommodate all his visitors so numerous are they from the good name he bears. Here we got a capital cold dinner of meat, bread, cheese, coffee, tea etc for three shillings apiece and somewhat refreshed went forwards in better spirits though the accounts we had heard there of the bad roads and the black forests would have disheartened many. Mount Masses are now formed quite a beautiful object on our right. A little below that mountain appeared a smaller one called the Bald Hill from its peak being quite barren and the soil of a white limestone and quartz in nature which gives it a most peculiar and splendid appearance when the sun's rays are shining upon it. As we advanced the thickly wooded sides of Mount Macedon became more distinct and our proximity to a part of the country which we knew to be oriferous exercised an uncountable yet pleasurable influence over our spirits which was perhaps increased by the lovelessness of the spot where we now pitched our tents for the evening. It was at the foot of the gap of the state-negum tree, the shoe-yoke with its gracefully drooping foliage the perfumed yellow blossom of the mimosa, the rich wooded mountain in the background united to form a picture too magnificent to describe. The ground was carpeted with wildflowers the sarsperilla blossoms creeping everywhere before us slowly rippled a clear streamlet reflecting a thousand times the deepening tents which the last rays of the setting sun flung over the surrounding scenery. The air rang with the coring of the numerous cockatoos and parrots of all hues and colours who made the woods resound with their tones while their restless movements and gay plumage gave life and picancy to the scene. That night our beds were composed of the mimosa which is a perfume like the Hawthorne. The softest looking branches were selected cut down and flung upon the ground beneath the tents and formed a bed which to my weary limbs appeared to be the softest and most luxuriant upon which I had slept since my arrival in the colonies Friday the 10th. With some reluctance I aroused myself from a very heavy slumber produced by the over fatigue at a proceeding day. I found everyone preparing to start. Kindly considerate my companions thought a good sleep more refreshing for me than breakfast and had deferred awakening me till quite obliged. So taking a few sailor's biscuits in my pocket to munch on the way I bade farewell to a spot whose natural beauties I have never seen surpassed. Proceeding onward we skirted the bald hill and entering rather a scrubby tract crossed a creek more liquid for our drays than dangerous to ourselves. We then passed two or three little coffee shops which being tents are always shifting their quarters, crossed another plain very stony and in place of swampy which terminated in a thickly wooded tract of gum and wild trees. Into this wood we now entered after about five miles uncomfortable travelling we reached the bush inn. I must here observe that no distinct road is ever cut out but the whole country is cut up into innumerable tracts by the carts and drays and which are awfully bewild into the newcomer as they run here and there now crossing a swamp now a rocky place here a creek there a hillock and yet in many cases all leading bonafide into the same place. The bush inn, the genuine one for there are true, consists of a large well built brick and weather board house with bedrooms for private families. There is a detached weather board and stone kitchen and tap room with sleeping lofts above a large yard with sheds and good stavelling. A portion of the house and stables is always engaged for the use of the escort. About 200 yards off is the new bush inn somewhat similar to the other not quite so large with an attempt at a garden. The charges at these houses are enormous five and six shillings per meal, seven and sixpence for a bottle of ale and one shilling for half a glass or nobler of brandy. About half a mile distance is a large station belonging to Mr. Watson. The houses, huts and yards are very pretty laid out and in a few years he will have the finest vineyard in the neighbourhood. Two miles to the east is the residence of Mr. Poolett Commissioner of Crown Lands which is very pleasantly situated on the banks of an ever running stream. The paddock which is a large one ten square miles or 6,400 acres is well wooded. Some new police, the barracks and stavelling yards are in the course of a reaction. We did not linger in the bush inn but pursued our way over a marshy flat crossed a dangerous creek and having ascended a steep and thickly wooded hill on the skirts of the Black Forest we halted and pitched our tents. It was little more than midday but the road had been fearful as bad as wading through a mire. Men and beasts were worn out and it was thought advisable to recruit well before entering the dreaded presence of the Black Forest. Fires were lit, supper was cooked spirits and pipes made their appearance songs were sung and a few of the awful exploits of Black Douglas and his followers were related. Later in the evening an opossum was shot by one of us. Its skin was very soft with rich brown hair. Saturday the 11th a dismal wet day we remained stationary as many of our party were still foot sore and all were glad of a rest. Some went out shooting but returned with only a few parrots and cockatoos which they roasted and pronounced nice eating. Toward evening a party of four returning from the diggings from us. Some of our loiterers made their acquaintance. They had passed the previous night in the Black Forest having wandered out of their way. To add to their misfortunes they had been attacked by three well-armed bush rangers whom they had compelled to desist from their attempt. Not however before two of the poor men had been wounded run rather severely. Hardly had they recovered for this shock then they were horrified by the sudden discovery in a sequestered spot of some human bones strewn on the ground beside a broken down cart. Whether accidental design had brought these unfortunates to an untimely end none knew but this ominous appearance seemed to have terrified them even more than the bush rangers themselves. These accounts sobered our party not a little and it was deemed advisable to double the watch that night. End of section three section four of a ladies visit to the gold diggings of Australia. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org A ladies visit to the gold diggings of Australia by Alan Clancy section four camping up Black Forest to Eagle Hawk Gully. Sunday 12 A lovely summer morning which raised our spirits to something like the usual tone with the exception of our gallant captain who resigned his post declaring it is his intention to return to Melbourne with the four returning diggers. Poor fellow, their awful account of the Black Forest had been too much for his courage. Gregory was elected in his place and wishing him a pleasant trip home our journey was resumed as usual and we entered the forest. Here the trees grow very closely together. In some places they are so thickly set that the rear guard of the escort cannot see the advance guard in the march. There is a slight undergrowth of scrub. We saw some of the choices of the Erika tribe in full bloom like a beautiful crimson wax and bell blossom and once whilst walking which I frequently did to relieve the monotony of being perched on the day by myself. I saw a fine specimen of the Ireludia at the foot of the tree growing from the wood. It was something like a yellow sweet pea that really too beautiful to describe. The barks of the trees and also the ground have a black charred appearance hence the name of the forest. This is said to have been caused by its having once been on fire. Many of the ambuscades of the noted Douglas were passed and the scenes of some most fearful murders pointed out. We only halted once so anxious were we to leave behind us this dreaded spot and its sunset reached the borders of the Five Mile Creek. Monday 13 another fine day crossed the Five Mile Creek by means of a rickety sort of bridge. There are two winds here with plenty of accommodation for man and beast. We patronised neither but made the best of our way towards Kytan. Our road lay through a densely wooded country till we arrived at Jacob Station. This we left and turning to the right soon reached Kytan which lies on the river Kampas. Kalshru lies to the right about three miles distant on rather low land. This is the chief station of the government escort. The Barrick accommodation is the first rate with stapling and paddocks for the horses etc. Kytan is about 61 miles from Melbourne. There are two large inns with ample accommodation for 400 people between them several stores with almost every needed article. A neat little church capable of holding nearly 300 persons in each. There is a resident magistrate and constabulary with a police court and jail in progress of erection. The township is rather straggling but what houses there are have a very picturesque appearance. The only drawback to this little town is the badness of the streets. Although it is rather on an elevated spot from the loamy nature of the sod are a perfect quagmire even a bonnival in summertime. The charges here are high but not extortionate. As besides the two inns alluded to there are several coffee shops and lodging houses so competition has its effect even in the bush. The Campas is a large river and is crossed by a substantial timber bridge. We still adored to our original plan of camping out. A few necessaries were purchased in the town and after continuing our journey to a little distance from it we halted for the night. Tuesday, 14 this morning commenced with a colonial shower which gave us all a good drenching. Started about 8 o'clock returned to Kiteen crossed the bridge and passed several farmhouses. The country here is very changeable sometimes flat and boggy at others very hilly and stony. We were obliged to forward several small creeks evidently tributaries to the Campas and at about 10 miles from Kiteen entered the Coloban range which is thickly wooden. The river itself is about 14 miles from Kiteen. Here we camp in the pouring rain some of our party walk to the town of Malmesbury about a mile and a half from our camping place. The town consisted of of about three tents and an inn dignified by the appellation of the Malmesbury Hotel. It is a two storied and pale house painted blue with a lamp before it of many colours large enough for half a dozen people to dine in. It, the inn, not the lamp is capable of accommodating 200 people independent of which there is a large tent similar to the booths at a fair about 100 feet long by 30 wide for the convenience of those first sleeping under cover when the house is full being hungry with their walk our comrades dined here for which they paid three shillings sixpence a piece. A'all was one shillings sixpence a glass brandy two shillings per half glass or knobbler cheese four shillings sixpence a pound bread five shillings the four pound loaf wine 25 shillings a bottle by the time they returned we had struck our tents intending to cross a muddy bank creek that lay in our road that evening as we were told that the waters might be too swollen to do it next day the water reached above their waist and as my usual post was very insecure I was obliged to be carried over on their shoulders which did not prevent my feet from being thoroughly soaked before reaching the other side where we remained all night Wednesday 15 rainy day again so much so that we thought it advisable not to shift our quarters in the afternoon three returning diggers pitched their tents not far from ours we were rather sociable and gave us a good account of the diggings they had themselves been very fortunate on the same day that we had been idly resting on the borders of the black forest they had succeeded in taking 23 pounds weight out of their claim and two days after 206 ounces more making in all gold to the value in England of about 1800 pounds they were returning to Melbourne for a spree which means to fling their gains away as quickly as possible and then as soon as the dry season was regularly set in they meant to return to Bendigo for another spell at work on representing to them the folly of not making better use of their hard-earned wages the answer invariably was plenty more to be got where this came from an act illustration of the proverb light come, light go two of these diggers had with them their licenses for the current month which they offered to sell for 10 shillings each two of their company purchased them this although a common proceeding was quite illegal and of course the two purchases had to assume for the rest of the month the names of the parties to whom the licenses had been issued as evening approached our new acquaintances became very sociable and amused us with their account of the diggings and the subject of licensing being naturally discussed led to our being initiated into the various means of evading it and the penalties entured thereby one story they related amused us at the time and as it is true I will repeat it here though I fancy the lack of oral communication will subtract from it what little interest it did possess before I commence I must give my readers some little insight into the nature of the license tax itself the license for which 30 shillings or half an ounce of gold is paid per month is in the following form Victoria Gold license number 1710 September 3, 1852 the bearer Henry Clements having paid to me the sum of 1 pound 10 shillings on account of the territorial revenue I hereby license him to dig search for and remove gold on and from any such crown land within the Upper London district as I shall assign to him for that purpose during the month of September 1852 not within half a mile of any head station this license is not transferable and to be produced whenever demanded by me or any other person acting under the authority of the Government and to be returned when another license is issued signed the Baxter Commissioner at the back of the license are the following rules regulations to be observed by the persons digging for gold or otherwise employed at the gold fields 1 every licensed person must always have his license with him ready to be produced whenever demanded by a Commissioner or person acting under his instructions otherwise he is liable to be proceeded against as an unlicensed person 2 every person digging for gold or occupying land without a license is liable by law to be fined for the first offence not exceeding 5 pounds for a second offence not exceeding 15 pounds and for a subsequent offence not exceeding 30 pounds 3 digging for gold is not allowed within 10 feet of any public road nor are the roads to be undermined 4 tents or buildings are not to be erected within 20 feet of each other or within 20 feet of any creek 5 it is enjoined that all persons at the gold fields maintain and assist in maintaining a due and proper relevance of Sundays so great is the crowd around the Commissioner's Tent at the beginning of the month that it is a matter of difficulty to procure it and consequently the inspectors rarely begin their rounds before the tent when, as they generally vary the fine according to the date at which the delinquency is discovered a non-licensed digger would have the pleasure of accompanying a crowd of similar offenders to the commissioners sometimes 4 or 5 miles from his working place pay a fine of about 3 pounds and take out a license after the 20th of the month the fine inflicted is generally from 5 pounds to 10 pounds and a license which is rather a due price to pay for a few days' permission to dig as a license although granted on the 30th of one month would be unavailable for the next the inspectors are generally strong built, rough looking customers they dress like the generality of the diggers and are only known by their carrying a gun in lieu of a pick or shovel delinquents unable to pay the fine have the pleasure of working it out on the roads now for my story such as it is Mike and Robert were too as good mates as any at the Mount Alexander Diggings they had had a good spell of hard work and as is usually the way returned to Melbourne for a holiday at Christmas time and then it was the great eyes of Susan Hinton first sound discord between them Mike was the successful wooer and the old man gave his consent for Mike, with one exception had contrived to make himself a favourite with both father and daughter the exception was this old Hinton was the strict disciplinarian one of what is called the good old school he hated radicals revolutionists and reformers or any opposition to church or state Mike on the contrary loved nothing better than to hold forth against the powers that be and it was his greatest boast that government had never pocketed a fathering from him in the way of a licence this in the old man's eyes and when Mike declared his intention of taking another trip to the lottery fields before taking a ticket in the even greater lottery of marriage he solemnly declared that no daughter appears should ever marry a man who had been openly convicted of in any way evading the licence fee this declaration who had already promised his daughter in marriage would not have had much weight but Mike knew the stern strict character of Hinton and respected this determination accordingly the day of their departure arrived and with a tearful injunction to bear in mind her father's wishes Susan bade her lover farewell and Robert and he proceeded on their journey full of his own happiness Mike had never suspected his comrades love for Susan and little dreamt he at the hatred against himself to which it had given birth hatred the more to be dreaded since it was concealed under a most friendly exterior for the first month Mike behaved to the very letter of the law and having for the sum of one pound ten shillings purchased his legal right to dig for gold felt himself a most exemplary character success again crowned their efforts and a speedy return to Melbourne was contemplated in the ardour of this exciting work another month commenced and Mike at first forgot and then neglected to renew his licence the inspector really came his rounds before the 14th the neighbourhood was considered deserted fairly worked out he'd never come round there thus argued Mike and his friend quarterly agreed with him lose the day's work standing outside the commissioners tent broiling in a crowd when two days would finish the job not he indeed Mike might please himself but he shouldn't get a licence and this determination on the path of his mate settled the matter in one respect Mike's self-security was not unfounded the gully in which their tent was now pitched was nearly deserted some while previous there had been a great rush to the place so great that it was almost excavated then the rush took a different direction you now cared to work on the two or three spots that had been left untouched like many other localities considered worked out as much remained in the ground as had been taken from it and as each day added to their store Mike's hilarity increased it was now the 10th of the month their hole had been fairly bottomed a nice little nest of nuggets discovered their gains divided and the gold sent down to the escort office for transit to Melbourne a few buckets full of good washing stuff was all that was left undone today we'll finish that thought Mike and to it he set with hearty good will to the intense satisfaction of his comrade who sat watching him only Mike felt a heavy hand upon his shoulder he looked up and saw before him the inspector he had already with him a large body of defaulters and Mike little doubted but that he must be added to their number old Hinton's determined speech Susan's parting words and tears flashed across his mind you've lost your body bright loud enough to reach his rival's ears Mike glanced at him and the look of triumph he saw there roused every spark of energy within him and it was in a tone of well assumed composure that he replied to the inspector my license is in my pocket and my coat is below there and without a moment's hesitation sprung into his hole to picture some minutes elapsed the inspector waxed impatient a suspicion of the truth flashed across Robert's mind and he too descended the hole there was the coat and the license of the past month in the pocket but the owner had gone vanished and an excavation on one side which led into the next hole and thence into a complete barren underground plainly pointed out the method of escape seeing no use in ferreting the delinquent out of so dangerous a place the inspector sulkily withdrew though not without venting some of his ill humour upon Robert at whose representations made to him the day previous he had come so far out of his road this returned to Mike by a happy thought he had suddenly remembered that whilst working some days before in the hole his pick had let in daylight on one side and the desperate hope presented itself to his mind that he might make a passage into the next pick which he knew led into others and thus escaped his success was beyond expectation and he regained the open ear at a sufficient distance from his late quarters to escape observation once able to reflect calmly upon the event of the morning it required little discrimination to fix upon Robert his real share in it and now there was no time to lose in returning to Melbourne and prevent by a speedy marriage any further attempt to set his intended favouring law against him the roads were dry for it was the sultry month of February and two days saw him beside his lady love although railroads are as yet unknown in Australia everything goes on at railroads speed and a marriage concocted one day is frequently solemnised the next his eagerness therefore was no way remarkable no time was lost and when three days after Mike's return Robert with his head full of plots and machinations presented himself at old Hinton's door he found them all at a well spread wedding breakfast round which were gathered a merry party listening with a digger's interest in which the happy bridegroom had evaded the inspector Mike had wisely kept the story till Susan was his wife Thursday 16 with great delight we hail the pronostications of a fine day and after having eaten a hearty breakfast on the strength of it we recommenced our travels and crossed the Colliban bridge the Colliban is a fine river running through a beautiful valley bounded with green trees the bridge is a timber one out of repair and dangerous a township called Malmsbury has been laid out here in small allotments with the expectation of a future city but as yet not a house has been erected with the exception of the hotel before mentioned putting one in mind of the American Eden in Martin Chasselwit a mile beyond the Colliban are the washing huts of John Orr's station and about three miles to the left is his residence the house is stone with verandas the garden and vineyards are prettily laid out after passing the bridge we took the right hand road and led us through a low country and across two or three tributary creeks we then reached the neighbourhood of Sawpitt gully so called from the number of sawpits there which formally gave employment to numerous sawyers whose occupation it is almost needless to state is now deserted it is surrounded with fine large timber there are several coffee shops a blacksmith's and wheelwright's and a neat little weatherboard in at this part our German friends made us farewell to follow out their original plan of going to Forrest Creek they had persuaded four others to accompany them so our number was reduced to 15 myself included the scenery now became very beautiful diversified with hill and dale well wooded with here and there a small creek more agreeable to look at than to cross as there were either no bridges or broken down ones the loveliness of the weather seemed to impart energy even to our horses and we did not pitch our tents till we had travelled full 16 miles outside Mount Alexander which is nearly covered with timber chiefly white gum wattle and stringy bark Friday 17 a lovely morning we proceeded in excellent spirits passing some beautiful scenery though rather monotonous during the first few miles we went across many little creeks in the neighbourhood of which were indications that the diggers had been at work these symptoms we hailed with intense delight Gregory told us the history of the whole in this neighbourhood out of which five people cleared 13,000 pounds worth of gold each in about a few hours in lieu of sinking a shaft they commenced in a gully colonial the valley drove a hole on an inclined plane up the side of the hill or rise however wet the season they could never be inconvenienced as the very inclination would naturally drain the hole such a precaution was not needed as the whole party were perfectly satisfied with the success they had had without toiling for more and the porcupine in is exceedingly beautiful not unlike many parts in the low lands of Wales about eight miles on the road we pass Barker's creek which runs through a beautiful bale we camp this evening about four or five miles from Bendigo and some miles from the porcupine in which we left behind us the porcupine is a newly built inn on an old spot for I believe there was an inn in existence there before the diggings were ever heard or thought of the accommodation appears on rather a small scale near it is a portion of the station of the messes Gibson through which the public road runs some parts are fine others wooded and swampy fine day we now approached Bendigo the timber here is very large here we first beheld the majestic iron bark eucalypti the trunks of which are fluted with the exquisite regularity of a Doric column they are in truth the noblest ornaments of these mighty forests a few miles further and the diggings themselves burst upon our view never shall I forget that scene at well repaid a journey even of 16,000 miles the trees had been all cut down it looked like a sandy plain on one vast unbroken succession of countless gravel pits the earth was everywhere turned up men's heads in every direction were popping up and down from their holes they might an Australian writer in speaking of Bendigo term it the carthage of the tyre of Forest Creek the rattle of the cradle as it swayed to and fro the sounds of the pick and shovel the busy hum of so many thousands the innumerable tits the stores with large flags hoisted above them flags of every shape colour and nation from the lion and unicorn of England to the Russian eagle the strange yet picturesque costume of the diggers themselves all contributed to render the scene novel in the extreme we hurried through this exciting locality as quickly as possible and after five miles travelling reached the eagle hawk gully where we pitched our tents and retired to rest though for myself at least not to sleep the excitement of the day was sufficient cure for drowsiness before proceeding with an account of our doings at the eagle hawk I will give a slight sketch of the character and peculiarities of the diggers themselves which are of course not confined to one spot but are the characteristics that usually exist in any oriferous regions where the diggers are at work I will leave myself therefore safely ensconced beneath a tent at the eagle hawk and take a slight and rapid survey of the principal diggings in the neighbourhood from Saw Pit gully to Sydney Flat End of section 4