 Hello I'm Ron Duke with Pyramid. Today we're going to talk about why you might want to consider going with the higher end archery optic. On the table today we have three different price point products. We have a Trophy Ridge opening price point volt. We have a middle price point black gold rush and we have the higher end black gold Pro Hunter HD. There are several reasons to consider the higher end optic. All three of these have features benefits and they all have their place in the market. What you're going to find is that there's this thing you're going to run into called axis and what the heck is axis and what are those adjustments. You're going to see anywhere from zero to one axis on lower end, two axis typically in the middle and three axis on the higher end. The higher end three axis adjustment is the easiest way to demonstrate this because you can see all three moving parts and it'll make a little bit more sense as to why things are adjusted. So inside of this black gold Hunter Extreme what you're going to see is there's actually a wheel on the side. That is a sure giveaway that you have a first axis moveable adjustment. This one is a micro adjust. What that means is first axis is up and down right. So on a lower end optic what you're going to have is you're going to have pretty much your bow sight completely fixed to your bow and then you're going to be moving your pins up and down individually. You'll see almost every archie optic has an allen key needed in order to move them up and down. You set your sights at exactly the distance that you want each one of them, practice with it and then you memorize those and you're good to go. On this one however you actually have the ability that it actually moves up and down so you can see this optic as I turn it it goes up and down. That's a first axis adjustable on the fly. This is a micro adjustment which means on the back of this what I can see from an archer perspective is I see this red arrow and that corresponds with what will come in the package is different distance tapes. So once you know the exact feet per second of your bow you will be able to tell exactly how far you're going to shoot based on each of these different tapes that you would take the sticker off and you would put it right on here. Once you have it set up you're ready to go. So the second axis if you see that's the relevancy of having this bubble level right here. Now what that does is when you take this into your archery shop or if you're mounting it at home is you want to make sure that when your bow and your arrow are level typically putting it in some type of a bow vise to be able to make sure everything is steady when you do that you want this bubble to be right in between the two lines. Now if you second axis is off you will actually see it a little bit off level the bubble will go to the right or to the left. Every bow look at the instruction manuals they all make an adjustment to the second axis differently right or left but essentially you want to make sure that that bubble is perfectly level. If you do not let's talk about the issue there if you do not have a bubble level and you have it set up you could possibly have it off a little bit different. Now what that's doing let's say you set your top pin at 20 yards your bottom pin in this scenario is actually going to go a little bit further to the right or to the left depending on how you have this off level. So the further out you shoot the further and further away from center you're going to be with your target. That's a huge issue in archery so make sure your sight from a second axis perspective is always level. You could just have a bubble buy one with a bubble level on there that's typically how they're sold. If you don't have one get one that attaches to it that you can remove so you know that it's level when you go out to the range and start sighting in your different distances. So we've covered up and down for the first axis we've covered canting it back and forth for the second axis. The third axis is actually the most unique and it's one of these things where I've heard two things in the archery industry one is people saying that you need the third axis because when it full draw you have power on your string that you don't have when it's not at full draw and so therefore it actually tweaks your bow a little bit sideways right or left. I've also heard and seen this in person on many occasions where it's perfectly level on your second axis you're shooting at the range target shooting you have it perfectly sighted in all your pins you go into a tree stand and all of a sudden you're shooting at an angle and for some reason you're thinking man I thought my pin was on that and it wasn't as close to a bull's as I thought it was. The actual answer might not be you it might actually be that's because you don't have an optic that has third axis adjustment. If you want that to all be corrected you need third axis so what third axis is is it's actually the angle of the face so I'm going to move a screw here and show you in a second but your face will move in and out and gives you the ability to then cover all range and all torque and everything for your specific bow. So I'm to put this allen key in here and hopefully you can see this it's very minor but if you watch closely you can see the angle of that face coming in and out and hopefully you can see that because that makes a huge distance difference in the distance when you shoot especially the further out you go and if you're shooting at 20 yards and under you're probably okay with first second or third I recommend folks to really consider spending the money on a third axis optic right out of the gate. I didn't do that as a hunter I recommend doing it because you buy one you buy the right one you can move it from bow to bow to bow which once you're comfortable with it and then you're not constantly buying different optics along the way and you have something that you know as you're practicing your form and going out there you know that your optic isn't the culprit you know that okay maybe my form's a little bit off or there's something else I could have windage I could have other things but I have everything with my bow set up there's no funniness when I'm shooting at shooting down versus shooting straight on and just to be clear there's nothing wrong at all these are very second axis adjustments first axis starting optics they're all very solid I've taken dozens of deer with each of these different optics so it depends on you I'm just sharing some information that I found throughout the time that I wish somebody would have told me about the third axis earlier on in my hunting days and I probably would have spent the extra 100 or 150 dollars to get myself that extra adjustment just to make sure especially starting out that everything is set up right I would encourage you to check these out on pyramidair.com I'm Ron Duker remember to like comment and subscribe I'll see you next time