 All right, so we've got a boiler here That has inflow radiant heat And the problem is it's not warm in the area. They wanted that so Gotta say a little munchkin boiler here same pro Looks like we actually got a Little low on the pressure there that can cause a problem with these and that's probably what's going on But they actually have a fill valve on this one here Some of them I work on don't have fill valves, but it's one of those automatic ones Let's see what's going on with that Come over here to the Tico sound panel and it's calm so See if you can find out what's going on here because Don't believe any of these pumps are actually running So let's see if it's an issue with the Pressure switch or what usually I get a code on it. Not real familiar with these It's not a bunch of them out there, but they seem pretty good when they work So I wanted to make sure it was getting water through and we got a 15 pound set here already Come through the meter Used to be able to backfill it and I'd isolated the boiler here And as you can see when I open that up And then open this now Next question is why is it not getting to here because my pressure down there's low and I know there's a spring in here So it's kind of counterproductive last I checked but since we're isolated I'm gonna open that up see if that spring's gummed up full of crud. I think there's a Screen in there too. So I went ahead and took that spring out see there's a screen in there Here's the Since we have a 15 pounder there. I'm not sure why we have double so I'm gonna Probably get rid of that because I opened this up Both ways Look at that. Nothing's coming back. That ain't good. There should be some water in the boiler It's a little weird All these valves are open. Why is that not the case? Let's see here. What's going on? Got water there. Oops. Look at that. Something just broke loose So it must have been gummed up in here somehow So now it's working So we need to clean that thing out. I think we've got issues there our fill valve is not filling and Like I said the pressure on this boiler now. It's nothing It won't run unless it's got water pressure on it So I'm gonna go ahead and Open up my little bleeder here that probably is gummed up. Got that screen opened up You have to take it apart on this side here Valved off here open the water up here. I'm valved off back here Valved off the pumps. I'm gonna force any of that air that I got in there out of there Got a bleeder over here on this side We like using refrigeration stems to bleed boilers. It's cost-effective and it works Let's go ahead and See if we get some pressure going here, so that should pressurize this little manifold here Make sure we got away Make sure we get all the air out. Maybe it's not such a deal. There wasn't that much air in there, so You can go ahead Put the bucket underneath that piece probably got trapped in one of those but Got that open Good old one. We have enough pressure now. Let's find out Pressure's better Still ain't quite where It needs to be at. The gauge ain't good It's not adding because there's some crap in this thing I think we're up to take it apart, unfortunately We do have a union there, don't we? It looks like we're gonna take this thing apart. I can't imagine it being That much stuff in there When you check your pretty tank pressure here, you want it relieved from the boiler. It came in at nine pounds So let's go ahead Consider it 12. I'm gonna go for 13. I love this little thing. It'll pump up your ATV tires, car tires That spring that I removed in there was the check valve Not the spring that actually pushes up on the diaphragm or whatever you want to call it That should there we go close enough all right, so Of course these have always got a fall down. They're not getting used very much right now, unfortunately Heat and season So by the time we unhook this Which is pretty good about not losing too much That will make a difference. So let's get back in there and see what we got What the heck things off I guess you're asking for too much some of this Milwaukee stuff just doesn't hold up Let's try it again. It's kind of cold out here. He's got a cold How do you got one pound on any of that nothing on it? What the heck? See this is why I don't get too concerned about it being exact. It's just off Soon as you put it up there. It just starts to Yeah So that's about 12 by the time we Think a little bit here we go See where that puts us at All right, so we went ahead and opened that up And didn't immediately bring it all the way up as far as I wanted it got it up to about nine to ten area Which I think this cuts out at eight. I'm going out of memory here So I put pulled the fast fill there and which you know it brought it up to where we're at now So let's go ahead and see if this thing will run now which if you notice We're now getting a 110 which is Possibly The water temperature which it does feel about that temperature So let's see if it's getting a call for For it to run here Is it the same pro earlier? It leaves a room to be desired. I'm telling you I'm not sure how that turns like that This scares me a little bit. They're good. They're nothing Unfortunately, there's no manuals down here Which is always nice And they don't put nothing inside there. Okay, well this thing seems to be calling Her heat still. Yeah, they're all calling there So why are they not running that's the next question Let's check out our panel here. Okay, so we're checking our power coming into Circulator even though it shows Even though it shows it's got LED over there Does have a hundred and twenty there so Should go over to circulator pumps here Neutral I Don't have anything nothing on that one Nothing on that one Sure looks like it's calling for it to run though These are power stealing stats, which I'm not a fan of either Check cross to our fuses here It's a little hard to do the thumb Okay, so no matter how I measure it I'm not getting 120 volts to the circulator I pulled these relays at least 120 volts, but the neutral It's not connecting if I go from neutral here coming into the panel To the hot leg I've got 124 volts When I go from neutral to hot Nothing Nothing on the next one Nothing on the next one Here's me the neutrals not connecting to these neutrals over here. This is high voltage So once again my normal disclaimer don't play with any of this stuff unless you're trained professional Know what you're doing. Don't kill yourself. I'm not responsible for it. So anyhow um Got to find out if there's something wrong with that board I'm gonna probably kill power to it and check the back side and see if the traces are blown out or something It's almost like um Like something went wrong and blew out the you know blew out the neutral All right, so I just used my jumper cable and jumped from neutral over to these neutrals and each one of them ran Full 2.3 amps. So something's wacky in the board You can see the difference in the brightness Of that you see that top one's calling sorta That's a power stealing stat for you so Basically, what did it happen to do we bonded the neutral from this side to this side? There's obviously something wrong with the back side of the board So to get their heat on I went ahead and built me a white wire because all I have is a bread So I took it from the neutral here and all these neutrals are bonded together already on this side of the board But for some reason it wasn't from here or over here and Originally when I was checking here to each individual one, they were all showing 120 volts because I didn't have it bonded here I don't know how to explain it real good other than the fact that it was looping through the motor And yeah, that'd be the best way to do it the power was coming off that Coming back on the neutral And it's coming from the neutral to the each individual one and showing 120 volts because it was feeding through the Unused winding if you want to call it that so what I ended up doing is isolating the thermostats I swapped the relays back and forth basically once I bonded it Boom shazam. Hello wake up. You're sleeping got it and we're good to go. So now this thing is working You can see It's glowing red. I haven't cleaned the flame sensor or anything yet But it's been running good That pr code I did find the book here hiding Unlabeled but It was setting there So we got that I'm gonna look at that code because I'm pretty sure that pr was met pressure So we'll look at that because I had this before on one of their other ones So let's take a look here. All right. Yep. Just like I figured pro means pressure switch open and uh Won't clear until you Make sure it's good to go. So the pressure switch has to be 10 pounds. So we got that and went to check for leaks it's hard to say well What we had originally to to combine things making it worse you have this here set 15 which He didn't need that. So I guess the This was not done by By us. There you go that other one finally just closed So we're good there. Um Myself personally, I prefer this over this thing here uh, what they really need to do is Go ahead and out of there if you really wanted to do that but um Do that looks like a lot better quality than that little makeshift thing these work, but Definitely wasn't helping us none Uh water is definitely coming back kind of cold. She's not ramping up very fast So, um, this is all in floor radiant heat Uh wooden floors So It's not going to be set for very high So it's probably not set for A real high temperature. I'm going to check through here and see what exactly does set for make sure it's set right but Yeah, this book would kind of come in handy to happen myself honestly I'm gonna have to I think I'm going to see if I can find the part number on this little turd And uh download this thing. All right, so we got the flame sensor out of there and you can see it looks pretty ratty So that's why I wanted to make sure I Clean that up before I left basically what we end up having This wouldn't run because the pressure was below 10 pounds This wasn't opening because the bladder wasn't pushing up on the pin Which is fighting against the resistance of a spring To add water to the system probably didn't help a whole lot that this was at 15 pounds of pressure itself So it wasn't a whole lot to overcome any restriction of that. Uh not pushing very hard on it Then you had your neutral over here Basically that's got a problem with the board. So i'm gonna tell them the new board to Might go ahead and see if we can't get them a new flame sensor because that's looking kind of A little shoddy. I know it looks like just a matter of time till that goes haywire All right, so that looks a lot better now still. Yeah, show us some warpage We'll go ahead and get that back in there Kind of interesting this actually uses a phillips screw Which is kind of you know, I don't usually see that Kind of nice that's something normal for once so Makes it a little easier So we get that other one in there So we got that tightened up It should relight here in a second And like I said, this thing's still calling For those circulators to run so they seem to be getting warmer Not real warm, but they're getting warmer And uh I'm gonna wrap this thing up Guys like the video and you want some more like it, you know what to do Don't forget to check us out on facebook under HVAC survival And until next time guys, we will catch you on the next one All right, we're back to your place that zone panel there a relay panel We have a p09 which their instructions so show pro pressure switch open Which you know I'm pretty sure it's trying to tell me the pressure because there's no other p09s in here Which sucks. This is back to when you don't work on Certain manufacturers equipment very often it just I wish There wasn't so many different ones out there. I don't see any other peas So I'm assuming they mean pressure and the nine might just be the pounds of pressure That's that I don't know if that's a digital one in there if that's too old for that but 10 is where it's got to be at above. So What we got here, I mentioned the last time was you got a nice backflow preventer here um pressure control And then you had it built in here the Homeowner did this himself. So I don't have all this plumbing crap on my truck. So I'm trying to figure out a way to bypass this thing You can see the pin down there. That's what pushes on the top of the um Pressure tank see the square Uh thread thing in there it goes through I'm going to back that thing out. That should get rid of it The screen and stuff is kind of plugged trying to clean that in and ripping the last time. So Go ahead and uh finish getting this out. You can see the city water Is not very good. Of course, that's Metal pipe. So what do you expect? But that might Work out for me and I won't have to go looking for a bunch of fittings to change things over So that's where we're at All right, so that thing comes out once you take out the nipple That just goes right on through there there's the Seal with the screw head the pin I'm just going to leave that Inside there. So if you ever want to put it back together we can But for right now, that's why it opened Go ahead and put the plug back in there put the tank on there and it should work just fine And then I trust that watts Uh pressure control a lot better. Plus it has a fast fill valve on it Which is kind of nice set for 15 which should be perfect And then like I said, you get the backflow preventer in there And that was what this other thing was right here was a backflow preventer. It's a generic one, but it worked basically a check I'll finish cleaning that garbage out of there and get her back together All right, you can see it adding a little bit of water there very slowly Spinning got it all back together Blood it out as best we could Air trap there should catch it And let's see if our pressures came up at all on our tank Yep, we're about 15 So That fixes at least that problem Thankfully Let's see if that was our only issue or if it even was the issue because like I said This instruction sucked when they don't have the ding code in there And the reset button doesn't seem to work either. I don't know if you have to hold it for 10 20 minutes or what exactly starting to purge the draft motor there, but Nothing major is going on The only other code they got in here that has a nine in it. That's if the display ain't defective no flame detected so Which like I said, this thing doesn't make sense then there's other stuff. So these were sold way before I came here and We don't have that many of them out here. At least I don't see them that often So we'll look through here a little bit more. I never even heard of a monk. She can before come in here. So Yeah, I just don't see anything. I'll have to look through this some more All right, so I had to unhook the power stealing thermostat resistors there This one here was causing enough bleed of resistance through that was causing circulator pumps to call when there was no call for heat yet So we went ahead and unhooked those just got to do without them They worked all these years without it. So continuing forward here. Let's see if we can get past this stupid p 09 which I have a feeling might be an f o nine, but either way If that's the case, I'm not sure because I have no technical support from monk. She can Because those guys are not answering her phone. No flame detected The heater will make three attempts blah blah blah. Well, guess what? That's I don't think is it Unless it's a defective deal. So Two of the zones is calling there. It's a lot easier to read this one than the other one the other one had on the side Or you couldn't see it So just I've already checked through all of my connections on my boiler there all of my Limits and stuff are closed. They should be closed open. They're supposed to be open So it's just a matter of finding out why it won't reset because The reset will not reset don't matter whether I hold it forever Or or whatever I do. It don't matter if I kill power It's very frustrating when you can't get good information because the factory doesn't answer their phone So, um, like I said, the rollout's done. I've checked the exhaust. Everything's clear out there Uh, the pressure switch is closed like it's supposed to be That switch is closed These ones seem to be fine. So not sure yet kind of Disappointed here that's such an issue Especially being so we've got, you know, the 15 pounds pressure that we need to have everything should be where we're at Or we should be at where it wasn't at the last time I was here So it's just very frustrating All right, so finally got a call back from tech services reason why that p9 doesn't show up is because it's not a code So what happened was the flu got snow in it And they cleaned it out and when they did the snow melted whatever the case and water just rolled down here soaked that Soaked the board I had corrosion on the back of that and most likely damaged the draft motor. So Uh, they're considering changing from LP gas to natural anyhow So I mentioned possibly going with the navion water heater, which is something we sell And uh, so we're going to price them parts versus Changing it over and the customer is considering changing it to do the whole house Adding more inflow radiant throughout the rest of the house instead of just the small Addition and the garage and go from there which they could tap onto this and then distribute it somewhere else also So that's going to wrap this one up. Uh, we're going to head on to the next call Otherwise we're good to go here at least with that part there. That's not a loss or anything there And uh, that's about it on to the next one