 Alright guys, so we're gonna start off this haircut by taking out the horseshoe section around the head. Now, on women's hair, I like to go right along the parietal ridge, but for men's hair, I like to go a little bit lower on the parietal because what that's gonna do when I go through and cut the top, it's naturally gonna give me a little bit heavier weight line along the parietal ridge. So it's just a safety precaution for me. I like that extra weight on men's hair, so that's what I like to do. Again, personal preference there. Then I go straight down center back and I section from the occipital bone over and clip that top part away. Now, I know a lot of people talk about men's hair. Men's haircuts don't clip it. Well, if a guy has this long hair, don't worry about clipping the hair. I'm sure he's in touch with his manliness and he doesn't care about clips, but it's good to section it away and keep everything organized. So we're gonna start working down a vertical section. This is gonna be a traveling guide throughout the entire back. So everything's gonna come straight out from where it lives, creating more of a balanced feel in the back, very even layers. Okay, so a lot of times we talk about what we're doing, but we don't talk about why we're doing it and what it's doing when we do it. So let's talk, let's break down what's happening in this section. I talked about the fact that I'm creating balanced layers. Well, what does that do? That is going to create the strongest foundation. If I were to over direct everything to the very center of the head and allow it to fall, by the time it gets to the outside behind the ear, that structure is pretty much gone. So if you want to have a nice solid structure, you want those layers to kind of hold themselves up, then you want to create a more balanced shape. It's gonna be a lot stronger. So that's what we're doing in this part of the haircut. Also, the head shape is playing a huge role in the density that's left over when we drop the hair down. So let's look at, I'm pulling everything straight out and cutting it, but what's happening is as I go along the occipital bone, I'm building up a lot of weight. It's pretty much being cut, let's say a little bit below 90 degrees, so more of a graduation feel. Then as I work my way down the head, it's collapsing. It's actually above 90 degrees because the occipital bone starts to cave in. So I'm getting a really cool shift in the weight, which I really want in this haircut. So I want that structure, that graduation, to kind of hold up and build up the weight to build strength in the shape of the haircut. But then also, I want it to collapse. I want it to be a little more fringy kind of feeling towards the nape of the haircut. So we're going through, again, everything comes out straight back, straight out from where it lives. And then once we get to that corner right around the ear, everything comes straight back, creating that balance, feel pushing a little bit of extra weight towards the front of the head. So now I'm about to show you guys what that shape is really creating. So when you start to kind of mess with it, you could see where that graduation builds up and where it collapses. We were holding the hair exactly the same, but head shape plays such a big role in how that haircut is actually going to look. So think about if you have a client that doesn't have an occipital bone. It's going to change that entire shape so you couldn't hold your fingers the way that I'm holding them. You'd have to adjust it. So make sure you make those adjustments as you're going through the haircut, so that you know that this haircut is going to work best. If you had a client without an occipital bone, which happens more of a flat feel to the back of their head, then you're going to want to build that using a finger angle. So you could just change that up. So now we're moving up the head, still working vertically. This is the pie shape sections or more of a traveling guide that we've talked about in the past. Some people struggle with pie shape sections and I think it's more of a traveling guide problem than it is the pie shape sectioning. Traveling guide is very difficult because you're constantly moving. Anytime you're constantly moving, it makes it hard to be consistent. So just make sure as you're working through this, take a lot more guide than you do new hair. That is the key to staying consistent with it. I'm also doing a lot of point cutting. I'm using my blacksmith fit Mizutani scissor. This is a six and a half inch scissor. I love this for men's hair. It's very versatile. If I have it at a six and a half, it allows me to use this scissor the entire haircut. If I went with something like a seven inch, I'd probably want to do just more scissor over comb work, things like that. So six and a half is very versatile. It allows me to do both. So I'm doing a lot of point cutting. The reason I'm doing point cutting is because I want more of a shattered feel. I don't want those strong lines in the haircut. Personal preference again, you could go through, create solid lines if you want to. If your guest had finer hair, it wasn't so thick. You could go through with more blunt lines as well just to build up a little thickness around each section. But again, it's all personal preference. These are all style tweaks that you can make within the haircut. This is why we don't do copying of what I'm doing. You base it on the guests that you have in the chair because their head is not going to be the same. It's why I don't mind using a mannequin. I know a lot of you guys are like, I want to see real people. Well, real people are all different and a mannequin is all different. So you can't take exactly what I'm doing and do it, but you can take little pieces from what I'm doing and place it on every guest that you do. That's what's important when you're working through and you're practicing different techniques. So everything's coming straight out from the head. I know I'm doing a lot of chatter about other things, but the most important thing about this haircut is everything's coming straight out from the head. Everything below parietal ridge is being brought out from where it lives. So we went from creating a balanced square feel in the back to then working our way around the head shape, which is going to round that corner off and give me more of a open kind of off the face feel for this haircut. So it's pushing the weight backwards and allowing the weight to follow the round of the head. So my fingers are there already. Christina talked to me about the fact that I cut past my second knuckle. So here's my reasoning for that. We're creating texture. So I don't find it a big deal to go past my second knuckle. I also will usually comb again and recut it. I just like to get that bulk off of there and then I go back in. The reason we don't cut past our second knuckle is because of the tension in our fingers. So depending on the tension you're looking for, that's when you need to worry, am I, if you're cutting a precision bob or something like that, you need to worry, am I cutting past my second knuckle because I'm going to have less tension towards the inside of my fingers than I am towards the tip of my finger. So again, just over direct or bringing everything straight out from the head, no over direction. The only over direction I do, I do a slight bit when I get to the temple area. And that's just because I, in this haircut, I wanted to push a little extra weight to the front. And the reason for that, this haircut is meant to be thrown backwards. So off of the face kind of a guy can run his hands through his hair, push the hair back. I like having a little bit of that extra weight so they can flop it back with a little bit of extra product. I think if you cut it to be too blended, it's just going to slick back. It's not going to have any kind of shape or volume to it. So that's my reasoning for a little bit of over direct, over direction backwards. Now we're going to work through the top. The top, I'm going to round the crown. So following the head shape through the crown. And then I'm going to cut horizontally across the top of the head. And then what that's going to do, if I keep that straight line across like I'm doing right now, it's going to give me extra length in the very front because the forehead starts to dip down. It gives me that extra little bit of length, which is part of that kind of flipping the hair back, having it flop in the back of the head. So everything has a reason. You don't just follow the head shape to follow the head shape. You need to have a purpose behind. Every time you pick up the hair, what is the hair going to do? You could see how much longer that part right in the front is going to be than the rest of it. But you want to make sure that you have a purpose for everything that you're doing. So working my way through the crown, still point cutting. That's pretty much the theme of this haircut is point cutting. You could use a razor as well. It would be a really cool look for this haircut. Now this is where I'm showing you that the length is longer. So you can, it's very versatile. You could use a razor. You can use scissors, whatever you want throughout the haircut. I'm taking these sections back. So I just comb everything back, taking small sections, working with the traveling guide. No over-direction. Everything's going straight up from the head. And what that's going to do, again, remember we left that line a little bit below the parietal ridge. That's going to give me that little bit of extra weight in my section. So it falls down. I just like having a little extra weight in the top of the head again, so that the guy can just flip the hair back and have a little extra weight to hold it back there. So finishing up, this is the left-hand side of the head. Same thing, combing the hair up, following the crown, and then going into a horizontal line parallel to the top of the head throughout the top, giving that extra length in the front. And you can see when I go to take my next section, I comb everything back. To kind of give me, for me, when I'm parting hair, I try to make it, get the current going the way that I want to part it. So I think of it as move the current, comb it back, and then take my parting. It just makes each section a lot cleaner. So hopefully, if you're not doing that, that'll help you with that as well, because clean partings is the key to keeping a consistent haircut and consistent shape within your haircut. So last couple sections, bringing everything back, following that crown, you'll know that when you run out of hair, that's when you're done with the top. And there we go. So now I'm going to use Bercato Carve. This is a product that I've been working with for a while. I really love the people at Bercato, and they have some cool products. This is a Cream Wax. It is available on freeslineeducation.com, so if you want to try it, definitely check it out. But it's helps give the hair that wet look if you put it in like 80% damp hair as a nice hold all day, but it doesn't get crunchy, and it doesn't get greasy. So that's really the key to this product. I'm not a big fan of really greasy products. And then once I get the product through and I have it the way I want, I use the Bercato Maximum Hold Hair Spray just to hold the hair in place. I don't think guys use hairspray enough. I love hairspray because I get my hair where I want it, and then I spray it, and I'm good to go for the day. There is our end result.