 kind of going into the insect world and the world of organic insecticides, there's a lot to learn. In the past, I've done almost two hour sessions at meetings like Southern Sog or Georgia Organics just on insecticide. There's so much to learn. So this is my basic framework that I'm going to give you today, just basic recommendations and show you some resources because this is a constant process. It's not never ending process. And feel free to call us or the regional extension agents through the phone app, the Farming Basics phone app, and get more updated information. You have all my information on your screen and David let me know if there's any disruption on my end. And I think Harley is monitoring the social media chat so you guys can put your questions in the chat. But my information is on your screen. We do have an IPM sustainable ag eNewsletter, a team newsletter which is on your screen. Make sure you are subscribed to it. Don't miss out on important pest alerts or crop alerts like the ones you just heard from and you have been hearing through the series. We also have the Alabama Extension and Commercial Award channel on Facebook where we put a lot of things. We also have a vegetable IPM channel on Facebook. I'm also on Twitter. My Twitter handle is at Alabama IPM and we have our Instagram farming underscore basics. So just make sure you are using these resources and the phone app. Of course, everything culminates in the phone app if you're using it. Now, as I said, there's a lot of information and I have done these smaller pieces of our smaller videos, shorter videos for you to watch and watch again. So there's many videos that are linked through the phone app, the Farming Basics phone app, or you can look for the Alabama beginning farmer playlist on YouTube. We have over 100 videos now. So it's an incredible amount of information and short segments along with some other detailed ones. There's one on insecticide or pesticide calibration that David Lawrence has done. You should look at. So there's some really great videos in there that provide lots of good information. So make sure you're using these videos in future. We also have print resources and I know there's some person from abroad who may not be able to get these. But if you are in Alabama or the Southeast, if you come to one of our field events, in person events, you can collect the vegetable handbook. Make sure you're using the most recent one. We've also updated our slide chart, which is your entry point to organic systems. And I always recommend producers, gardeners to call me with this IPM slide chart in hand. And the new ones are blue color. And again, we also have one for urban farms market gardeners that is available. So just reach out to us and we'll try to get it to you or you can come get them from an event near you. Now, over these last few sessions I've done, there were questions from home gardeners. And the last one I did, I mentioned that I'm going to show you how I do gardening and I'm not perfect, as you can tell. But here's my attempt in growing some of the more exotic vegetables, these Indian vegetables, because that's makes my gardening more cost effective. So I try to grow things you can get at Walmart or Publix or somewhere else. So some of these unusual vegetables and you can kind of see I have a small trellis that is full of gourds. I grew about last year, I grew about 60 pounds, I think of backyard vegetables. And I know a lot of gardeners are on this call. So you might be tickled with this. I am actually I've taken down the trellis and rebuilding an entire trellis. I bought a greenhouse frame for my house and I'm going to use that as a trellis this year to grow my Indian vegetables and have more open canopy. I also grow the Indian long beans and Malabar spinach. The one thing I've understood and you can again relate back to everything that Andre has presented today and in the past, you know, the things he has mentioned, for example, from gardening and production perspective, timing of your planting and harvest of your crop, very important. So the more you delay your planting, the more your harvesting is delayed, there's more insect pressure. So it's all related. Irrigation watering that Andre just talked about. I do not like to irrigate with overhead. I actually have micro irrigation system and soaker hose in my garden. So and I regulate the water, I only water twice a day for a certain period of time. And that has really benefited my crop. And then trellising, I don't like to put things on the ground. I'm one of those gardeners who likes to put most of the things up on a trellis if I can. Of course, sometimes if you're growing watermelons and pumpkins, like big ones, you can't do that. So that's logical. But I would put all my smaller vegetables up on trellises and support them somehow. So the whole idea is to open the canopy where you can spray if needed and avoid some of the hiding spots because insects love this crowded when you crowd them. So this is very important. So again, follow the recommendations that you see on a seed packet. Those are research based, a lot of them are research based. So follow that. So just wanted to kind of show you what I do. And here's some of the yields. And you can see, you know, during COVID, I was able to grow quite a bit of vegetables from a small area in my backyard. So again, it's the you have to design a system that works for you and you can manage them. All right. So jumping into the pest management part. And of course, if you have questions, I'm sure I will leave you with more questions than answers today. Just type them in the chat and I'll try to answer them slowly. But let me get on and talk about pest management or IPM. And essentially, it starts from insect detection and monitoring. And I've covered some of these in my earlier presentations in the series on tomatoes on cucumbers bits. So just take a look at those. But I want to move on quickly today because and cover some more new ground. So it starts with insect IPM starts with insect detection monitoring. Incent identification, very important. Don't kill the good bugs. Go after the bad ones. So try to learn and document on your phone. You can actually save the image and tag them with a title. So you can you know what insect you have seen and how you've identified it or use the phone apps like our farming basics phone app has most of the critical insects you need to look for. Know the population pressure. Know when to act. For example, if you have just one a fit, there's no reason to go out and spray. And that's called economic threshold. So you have to watch and see what the insects are doing and how the symptoms are happening and control them timely. So that's the concept of economic threshold. Natural enemy, take into account your natural enemies, protect them and use insects as only if needed. Remember, I'm not trying to sell you insecticides today. I'm trying to tell you that we have other methods of best management and then insecticides. And this is again a slide I've used again and again and again because I think this is very important to realize that in the organic world, sustainable dioxide, there are different ways of managing insects. It doesn't have to be always insecticides. And this is true even in the conventional systems. So we have the three levels of IPM or integrated best management, which is the first one is the systems based practices. And those are everything that Andre talked about. Irrigation, choice of varieties, sanitation and weed control, very important. I have talked about trap cropping in my previous talk. Again, that's another way of doing ecological diversity, confusing the insect. And again, that's a prevention strategy. Best exclusion is very important. And I think that's can be done by small farmers, market gardeners. And there's certainly if you've not tried it, give it a try. Look at the videos and learn from them and call us before you try to implement it on large acres if you have a large farm. Because these best exclusion systems can get expensive. Sorry, I had a message pop up on my screen. So the best exclusion system is level two, and then you have insecticides. And again, our goal is to protect nature, protect those pollinators and natural enemies. Going deeper into the organic or sustainable ag side of things, not all tools are made for everybody. For example, if you are an open field producer or you have a large garden, you can use preventive tactics like trap cropping. Trap crops take time, they take space. Not everybody has space. Certainly I don't. So you can use it if you have land. But if you are a high tunnel producer, you can use the permanent exclusion system, which is on your in the middle of your screen, and basically something like a shade cloth, which is a cheap best exclusion system. And if you're a home gardener, market gardener, you can use these fixed frame or movable frame best exclusion systems. And again, the cost depends on how much you want to invest. So, but these things are very effective. I have many years of data, and I'm still learning from it. It's not perfect, but I think we have some very good recommendations. Now, here's a quick reminder. Always as you garden or farm, take a look at the weather and how the patterns are shifting. For example, know that there are different types of drought. We have the prolonged drought, which we saw in 2016. I remember it when I had to actually buy tanker of water and irrigate, and all the the bonds went dry, and we had to buy water. Compared that to the 2019 summer, we had a flash drought, where we had a very intense few weeks of absolutely no rainfall intense temperatures. And that helped the insects. And you can see those the arrows indicate the population fluctuations and the pop and the insects took advantage of it. The crops were stressed, and I might my crops looked horrible that year. So I think the flash drought hurts us more than prolonged drought, where we can prepare better. And then of course, we have wet, very wet years like last year was extremely wet. And we had more disease issues than trying to control the insects. So again, take a look at the weather and make your IPM plants flexible and keep talking to us with for data or any information you need. Also, as I said before, don't kill the good bugs, the beneficial insects and pollinators, we need them. And this slide shows that don't go by color of these insects. For example, on the left of your screen, you're looking at the sting bug, which is actually a beneficial insect. And it has a very thick and stout proboscis or mouth. It's like a straw. It's a thick straw. And it's short and it's sharp, because it's a predator is going to pinch the body of a caterpillar and kill it and suck the juice out. And then compete that with the one on the right. That's a pest sting bug. And it has a long straw, long beak like mouth. And so you should be, you know, you should identify these insects and not freak out. We don't want to kill these good insects. So identification is critical. If you send pictures to us, remember to take pictures from different angles. Oftentimes I get pictures from just the top of the insect. It's very difficult for me to tell unless there's a specific pattern. Try to move your camera to the side so that I can see the mouth parts and even the legs. Some of these features help us identify the insects better. So I take good pictures, good quality pictures if you can. Going into the world of organic insecticides. And this is what you're here for. There are so many choices today. And how do you define it though? You know, there's different definitions from the academic world. There's also definitions from the insecticide industry itself. For example, valent biosciences has a definition that includes by rational products as products that are from natural or biological origins. And also other things like crop stress reducers and other plant growth promoters. And they include those into the into this as well. So that's a pretty broad category of by rational pesticides out there. But bio insecticides are kind of specific. And typically they're derived from natural sources. If you think about BT, you think about the botanicals like Neem that you may be using. They're typically non-persistent in the environment, which means they don't accumulate like some of the other pesticides do. If you apply them, they're active for a few days, and then they kind of go out or they're washed out. And that's the whole idea is to is to do a quick shot, get the insect, and it's not persistent on the produce. And if you are organic, you have to look for the OMRI OMRI symbol on the product label. And I have that on the screen OMRI OMRI stands for Organic Materials Research Institute. So look for OMRI. Don't go for the products that are labeled anything but OMRI. If you are an organic producer, you need to stay within the limits. And again, if you go to a store, this is what you may see. It's a mess out there. It's very difficult to really understand which one is a bio insecticide and which one is a chemical. So use these slide charts that I've shown you, the other publications we have, and or the phone app, we are going to launch a new Farming Basics phone app that will have the organic recommendations in it. And use these facilities or these resources as you shop for insecticides. So be very careful what you buy. I know this is an overwhelming slide, but this is what I want to take some time on is there are and I'll go through this some more details in the future slides. But there are about four different categories of organic insecticides. For example, the first one on the top says physical desiccants that includes kaolin clay, diatomaceous earth. If you think about those products, you know, these are physical, you have products, so you have to apply it over the insect, and it may irritate or dehydrate the insect and kill them. The problem there is they also get washed out easily. And you may have seen that. But and the other thing is they also may wear out nozzles on your on your sprayers. So there's good and bad of all these products, but physical desiccants are physical poisons. The big majority of insecticides today belong to contact action. And that's in the middle of your screen there, which includes oils, neem. I think you all love neem. I go with neem that has isodrectin, which is the active ingredient in it. And it's on your screen, pyganic or pyrithrin. And there are a number of other things, even including fungi or fungi. I don't know how you say it. Maybe it's fungi. So but there are these fungi, these, these products that are contact poisons. So they have to be applied over the skin of insect, and then they go into the cuticle of the insect, and they destroy the insect. So those include vivaria, meterozium, and bacillomyces, you'll see those scientific names on there. And those are fungal products. And there's also some others. Now, one interesting thing I have, I'll point out on this slide, there are premixes coming out in the market. So in the organic world, a new trend is industry products with one, with two or more, typically two, two products mixed together. For example, you can see botanical max, which has the vivaria, which is a fungus, along with pyganic mixed together. So it's already mixed for you, and makes it more powerful, more effective. Azira is neem and pyganic mixed together. So it's very interesting to see a lot of these new products coming up with multiple active ingredients, which increases the cost for, and it may be cost prohibitive for gardeners, but for farmers, it certainly could be helpful to especially plan your IPM insecticide sprays. Then the next big the most famous insecticide in the world is the BT products. That's the bacillus thuringiensis product, like dipel and centauri. And again, you see the new premix products of BT coming out in the market. The last one on the bottom of the screen are the volatiles. I have started to do some research on the volatile products. For example, the Dr. Browner's peppermint. It's really amazing, like when you are spraying it all like minty around you. So it smells really nice when you spray, but here's the danger. These products are a great one, say for small insects like aphids. They will dehydrate the insect, but you should not spray them when it's too hot. It can cause plant burn, and also spray these, use most of these products when the insects are small or low in numbers. If you already have an outbreak, these products will struggle to give you the result you want. So again, scouting is very important. That's why. And then on the far right of the screen, I have included some of the granular products. There's not very many out there, but I have included some that act as for fire and control, for cutworms, and also for slugs. If we get into another very wet year like last year, we may see slugs and snails on our crop. So again, these products are out there. The slug products are not very cost-effective if you're a farmer. So that's the danger again. So make sure you're planting in good ground that drains properly. But there are some choices. I just wanted to kind of mention the whole gamut of organic products in one slide for you. And I may be omitting something, but that's typically what you'll see when you go out to shop for organic insect sites or online. And talking of where you can get some insect sites, here are some choices that are ag retailers. You can buy them from directly, especially make friends with your farmer's co-op around you. Those co-op guys, most of them have an agriculture background. They are there for the long term. They will talk to you and help you seek some answers, perhaps connect to us. But you can also buy online or organic insect status. Most of it is now being sold online. But if you're buying online, one of the things I wanted to mention is check the expiry on these products when you buy them from anywhere. And make sure the product comes with labels. Don't buy products that have a missing label, because if you apply too much of these organics inside, you can burn the crop, especially in our Alabama heat. And then store these bioprocess sites away from sunlight. Don't let them get hot and boiling because, for example, BT, BT is a living insect site, the bacteria will just die. So don't do that and always make a fresh mixture when you're spraying. So just some things to think about. None of this is rocket science here. It's very, very basic, very logical. Let's talk quickly about some of the microbial products. So again, this is BT. You may have seen this in different versions. There's a liquid version. There's also the dry flowable versions that are available and you can buy them online or at the co-op. Now, BT is very good for caterpillars. So if you're writing notes, this is a very good material for caterpillars, especially Zantari that's on the screen here. That's very good for armyworms if you have armyworms. But you need to spray more frequently. We do sprays the minimum once a week. If you have a high pressure, I would go with twice a week. So again, the point is don't stop spraying too soon. Go and spray, see the effect, and if needed, spray again and make sure you're doing a thorough application with good amount of water. So again, very effective products, lots of choices today for farmers and home gardeners. This is the fungal product. It's an insect, fungus that attacks insects. And the Omri approved the organic version is called mycotrol, but the older product, another product is called botanical. And again, these are, it's a contact poison. And these are again, very good when the insects are small or low in numbers. A lot of these products are very popular with greenhouse producers. This is meteroxium. This is again another fungus. It's a little hard to get some years. I don't know why, but I did my PhD on this product. It's a great product. It's called the green muscadine fungus, because it makes the insect green and kills them. So, and it's really good on small insects and has a good contact action. And you can buy this online. I bought my products online, but again, check the expiry, because sometimes it's hard to get. This is a kind of a less known product, but we have done some research on it. This is another fungus that is effective for some insects. We have tried this on beetles. If it's again, small insects, I would not use it for large insects or high pressures, but it is made by a very good company called SIRDIS, PFR 97. So, again, we are evaluating this for yellow margin leaf beetle, which is a major pest right now in the winters or in the spring. This is another category in the viruses. And there, because they're so specific, a lot of people don't use it, but these viruses are great because they, for example, this one will only control the caterpillars and the corn earworms. It would not touch any other insects. So, if you're looking for specificity, then viruses are the way to go. Again, they don't last very long. This is like BT. You have to treat them just like BT. So, like BT is for caterpillars only. Same thing with these viruses. But these are good products. We have tried them. And our challenge is drought. If we get into an extremely drought situation, some of these products may deteriorate faster. So, but these are some of the choices that you have for microbials. And then nematodes. We have been doing some work with nematodes, especially for mole crickets, and putting them as drench in the ground. And trying to control some of the soil based insects like cutworms, mole crickets. I don't have data on Japanese beetles and grubs, but certainly there are different types. And you see it on your screen. There's the ambush type and the hunting type. So, again, it's very interesting once you start to dive into these different biologicals. There's so much to learn there. Quickly about botanicals. And this is one of the most favorite categories for gardeners. The neem based insecticides. Remember there are two forms. There's one oil form, which is very common, but it does not have azadirectin, which is the active ingredient. I like the ones that have the azadirectin. So, look at the label and then make your purchase decision. So, again, use these for small insects like caterpillars, whiteflies. It does really well for whiteflies. And they do work really well in covered situations like high tunnels or greenhouses when the action is extended. So, neem based insecticides are certainly very popular. And sometimes they struggle in our trials because of the excessive heat and constant moisture, constant rainfall. It's a struggle to keep them on. Pyganic is one of the most popular botanical in the world and one of the oldest. So, again, this is an extract from the chrysanthemum flowers. Try not to mix it with anything. There are some really good pre-mixes now, but don't mix it with soap. So, that's one of the things soap will deteriorate this formulation. But you can mix Pyganic with, say, BT. And we have done it and we have got some really good results with some of the crops. But watch out. Don't overdo it. Don't burn your crop with high rates. So, just be on the lookout. But Pyganic is a very good broad spectrum insecticide. So, again, this is the Pyganic in different versions. There's an organic and a non-organic version that's on your screen. So, read the label before you apply. Some of the microbial derivatives, which means that these don't have the active microbe. They are extracted. The poison is extracted from those microbes. But there's no active microbe in there. And one of the best examples of it is Spinosid. And this is a very expensive product. So, Entrust, which comes in different formulations, it's a pricey product. So, this is kind of that last thing. If you have an intense pressure of caterpillars or small beetles, Entrust, I put Entrust in the rotation. But this is my last resort. There's also a home garden version. And what I found out is you have to spray more often. So, it does have the Spinosid in there. But you end up spraying more often. So, again, this is kind of the more expensive versions that are out there, if you're interested. And I always say to farmers that, you know, tick insecticide not as a cost, but as an expense because you will get a return if you invest. So, it depends how much you want to invest. But you have to do this as a plan. Grand Evo is another new one. Well, it's not new anymore. But some years back when I first started working with Grand Evo, it used to be a new one. Again, it's a derivative from a bacterium. And it's already approved. And it does have a broad action for small caterpillars, small insects like aphids, thrips, whiteflies, and also spider mites. And it does not kill the beneficial insect. So, it's a good product. It's still under testing. I keep doing things with Grand Evo. And the same company makes Venerate. It's Venerate struggles a little bit in our trials, especially in high pest conditions. So, this is kind of a work in progress. But it is available. Just wanted to make you aware of some of these products. Soaps and oils. I know you all love these. These are the insect cells soap. This soap is different from your dawn detergent. So, here's my opinion about dawn detergent. It's not labeled as an insecticide. So, if you are using dawn detergent, you're on your own. And if you use too much of it, you can burn your plant. And I've done that. That's what I'm saying from experience. These insect cell soaps that you see on screen, these are potassium salts they would not burn. And they're labeled for the crop. So, just be aware of this. And remember not to mix most of these other products you saw with a soap. Soap deteriorates products. So, when I use soap, I really wash out the sprayer and then use other products. So, I don't try to mix anything with soap when I'm using it. But soap is kind of weak when you have a lot of aphids, a lot of white flies, obviously because you need fresh coverage. So, the product will just stay where you spray it. So, any new vegetation, you have to spray again. So, it will keep spraying. It also washes away fast. But it's a very popular product with organic producers and it helps to relieve some of the pressure. These are some of the petroleum oils. I've done a lot of research on sapphoil, which is on the bottom of your screen. Sapphoil, these are good for spider mines, white flies, some of the small insects. One of the good things about petroleum-based oils, it kind of just smells like gas or kerosene. But these, they mix really well with water. They form a very good suspension. And they also act as anti-fungal. So, some of them have a pretty broad label. But yeah, this is, if you haven't tried, these are certainly worthwhile. I don't know what packaging they come on. Because last I checked, they seem to be in big packaging, but they may be available for home gardeners in small packaging. And then we have these vegetable oils that are available. And piola, which is on your screen, that's a premix. So again, we're kind of trying to synthesize everything that you saw. I get this question all the time. What are the top six organic insecticides for vegetable gardeners, market gardeners? Well, it's, this is on your screen now. There's the top five are BT, dipole for caterpillars, pygenic for broad spectrum insect control, especially go after these small worms and the small sting bugs. Don't expect miracles with any of these products. Spinocid, again, that's an expensive product. Use it as in rotation with some of the other products. Neem, which is a directant, that prohibits insects from molting. It's also anti-fetant action. And I think I mentioned about the insect cell soap, that how it is different from your home dishwashing soap. And then Keolyn clay, I've seen that being used. The only thing is they don't, it doesn't last very long. They will wash away easily, but it acts as a, as a repair. So you have this top five, six products that I have tried. And I still tried these for different insects. And then of course, these pre mixes are in the market. Now, I will again remind you that, you know, in six sets alone, the organic insects as alone may not be all effective. Try to integrate them with different other methods. For example, here you're looking at a picture on the left is if you do nothing to these tomatoes. So if you just let the insects do their thing, you can see the tremendous damage from caterpillars and sting bugs, or leaf-footed bugs. And compare that if you use something like a trap crop and then use, just use the trap cropping, for example. So you see some effect and the pictures tell the story, right? So, and these, in this case, the trap crop is sorghum NK 300 and pentatonic sunflower, again, go back to the YouTube channel I mentioned and look up those older videos all the web or the webinar series before and you may, so that you can get the whole story about trap cropping, because that's an entire session I can do on trap crops. But you can see the difference if you do nothing, then you do something, for example, trap cropping. The next slide also show you if you did trap cropping and use insecticides, whether it's a organic insecticide or a conventional, you have a remarkable, it can make a remarkable difference by integrating these various tactics. And again, this comes from experience. It may not work the first year, it may not work the second year, but as you gain more experience on integrating these tactics, you start noticing the difference it makes. It took me many, many, many years to learn this and show you, but there is a benefit. And again, if you are using pest exclusion system with BT, so now you can see these are pictures from one of our experimental studies where we're doing on-farm research with producer with pest exclusion system on high tunnels and the producer used the pest exclusion system along with BT and there is the insect dead from BT infection. So it's really amazing if you are able to integrate these different tactics. That's why the word IPM. If you're a producer, this might be of interest to you. You can do tank mixing with insecticides. For example, for caterpillars, you can use BT with Pygenic. You can also mix neem with Pygenic. So there's different ways you can do these combinations. Again, I have not done research on every crop that's out there and in Alabama, I think we grow about 34 different vegetables. There's no way I can ever do research on every crop. Please, please, please make sure you don't burn your crop. So when you do this, if you try these, do it on a small area, few plants and see the effect and then spray the entire field. So again, if you have caterpillars, remember to start with BT. BT works really well in an organic situation and then go to some of the other products like Pygenic or Neem. If you're using insecticide rotations, again, in the bottom of the screen, I've mentioned for caterpillars, BT is great. But if you have, say, beetles, you can try something like Pygenic or Azera, which is a premix, and start with those and then go to BT. So again, make your decision based on your insects. This is not a calendar-based spraying. So those schedules don't work. So again, I think I already covered some of these. There are some insecticide premixes. I think I've seen smaller packaging for these products. So even home gardeners can buy these products now. So again, yes, so these are just kind of repeat slides. Now, a lot of people, I'm kind of towards the end of my presentation. A lot of people ask me about fire ants. Make sure you are checking that it is fire ant. I think the test is called a potato chip test. So basically throw a potato chip on the anthill and see if the ants get it. So you need the ants to actively feeding to let the insecticide work. But there are some choices that are organic and not non-organic. For example, payback and come and get it. These are all kind of funny names for insecticides. But you can buy them online on Amazon. Monterey has just released a kind of a new product. I saw it before the COVID pandemic hit. So it's almost two years now. And I saw the Monterey ant control pellets. But it does not control fire ants. So again, read the label. Sirius bait from Certus is only approved and it's for producers. And there are some other baits as well that I have mentioned. So there are some choices and there's a blog article where you can read more. So if you go to aces.edu type in fire ant control and you should be able to get to my detailed article. And then if we get into a very rainy wet weather, be ready for seeing snails on your crop. And the earlier you spray or earlier you apply any of these moluskicides, which is the pesticides, the better. But the challenge is cost. These majority of these products are very expensive and I'm almost sure farmers may not be doing it. And you just have to have good ground and not have too much rain if you can exclude rain. But there are some things that you can buy in large packaging. And I've mentioned some of those that those might be available for farmers. Remember to check your sprayer. So don't delay buying good sprayers, get good quality sprayers from a local co-op, check the nozzle. I have tried some of the battery operated sprayers. I have tried at least two of them and I found this Flowmaster pumpless, which is just 35 bucks, really effective for home garden spraying. I actually use it even for my lawn spraying, if I have to do spot spraying on the lawns. So it gives you a very good spray pressure, uniform pressure. Again, I'm a gardener, so I'm not necessarily following everything, but I know it's doing a good job and it's not dripping insecticides and I'm not wasting material. Ideally, if you're a farmer, I would say go calibrate. But if you have a good battery, they come with rechargeable batteries. It works great. And then try to spray from bottom up, not from top down the way, usual way we think, so that you have the insecticide. So when you are getting this insecticide with your sprayer, if you have an angled nozzle, spray it from bottom to up so that you can deposit these insecticides underneath the leaf where the insects are hiding. So that helps the organic products, that helps the persistence of these products. So just think about it and do your own experiment and see what works for you. I think this is my last slide. I just wanted to remind you again that we have the IPM sustainable ag newsletter. Don't miss out on information because that's the number one problem is we have worked really hard to get you information, but during summers, don't miss out on best alerts and even crop alerts. Use the online farming basics online course for beginning farmers and then use the apps and these online social media events to interact with us. That's the reason we are doing this. So with that, I am going to stop.