 Hey, what's up folks welcome back to another layer by layer in today's tutorial We're going to take a look at the sketch drawing toy So this is a snap fit case that has the tft feather wing and a feather in the back there This is a really fun Sketch drawing toy inspired by an etch a sketch style project. So with the display You can draw pixels with these two potentiometers And what's cool is that you can use this switch to do a pen up and down So then you can move a cursor and kind of draw separate shapes That's really neat. And then you can use the center button to clear. So that's really fun I got a built-in holder for the slide switch so you guys might know that from a couple of my cases and I have a snap fit case, right? So I have two halves that snap fit together so you can open them by just squeezing these two like that You can get that open there. I Have a pretty beefy battery here, but this is the RP 2040 feather nice pink addition and The tft feather wing here. This is the 2.4 inch version So what's cool about this is that instead of attaching? The tft feather wing to the case itself. It's actually attached to a PCB bracket This green thing over here. So the people the PCB bracket allows you to attach and secure the tft feather wing With these these nylon M2 five sized screws and hex nuts. We'll take a look at those in the CAD But it's a really good method to make it so you can have this snap fit case and not have any screws exposed So that's cool. The back here has a built-in button pusher So you can see that this little shape here allows you to press This down and it flexes and it just about hovers over the on-board reset switch So it actually hits that when you press that so that's a cool way to Reset hard reset the board without having to take it apart There's some extra bits here. So you see that there's some snaps here There's one there and there's a bit of an end-stop flat edge here For that for that bottom another cool feature is that I have these these vent lines here And that's all done with the the thin extrude And it's a really good way to kind of get a nice grill and do some styles stuff to it and it actually helps flex this open and It allows you to print a little bit faster because you're not having to print the whole thing So that's kind of a neat thing. So let me go ahead and close this up Just gonna make sure that none of the wires are being kinked or that just snaps like that You have a nice large opening here for the USB connector on the feather and then Let me turn it on So that that built-in Holder there is nice. And then if you want to reset without having to open it you can do that Nicely, cool. All right. So there you go. Let's start drawing stuff. These are good right layer Layer, but that's gonna take a minute any hoodle. Let's take a look at the the learn guide and Fusion 360 so let's jump into into that so you can download and build your own project here It's got all the all the files and all the instructions and all the code on putting this together So if you want to Get notified when these are back in stock and you can do that or you can get a feather if they're in stock already But yeah, that's where all the the files are and the tutorial lives here. So I'll have a link in the description of the video Cool. So let's look at fusion So the project is available to download same place. I'll have a link in the description But the first thing I want to note is the PCB bracket. So let me hide some of these things here so we can take our bottom here And our top hide those and just kind of show the PCB bracket. So you can see here that the feather tft has four mounting holes and The mounting holes are in close proximity To the display itself So the one of the better ways to mount it is to have the head of the screws coming from this side Because when you try to have these hex nuts on the other side here They can Intersect with the bezel of the display and that could damage your display So you want to be very careful when attaching this PCB To anything else. So I found that this method works fairly well and Just be very careful with the the bezel of the display. So one of the ways to attach The PCB to the 3d printed bracket is to have these hex nuts in between In between them really because if I didn't and if I had this area It would start to crash into some of the components that are close to the edge Notably these capacitors here. So if I didn't have these nuts there you wouldn't be you could easily damage not easily but you could damage the onboard components and And That's that's always a problem there So you just want to be careful with that you can see here that you would also be getting close proximity to the The onboard micro SD card holder and in the on-off switch So this method worked out really well and instead of having Like a built-in standoff for the bracket I'm just using hex nuts because they're already there and they are always going to be consistent Length and height. So that's why I haven't been there. So they worked out pretty what pretty good there Now the only other screws that are here are these force m3 screws on the corner And that actually gets fastened into the top So that's how this is working. You have the the PCB bracket get secured to the top half and you can't see the screws here because they're kind of hidden there, but if I get rid of The hardware you can see here that the there's plenty of depth for that standoff and This standoff is built into the corners of the of the top half of the of the case and they're about eight millimeters tall So plenty of clearance for the display. So let's take a look at how much that helps create this sort of a bezel thing So when you have those standoffs Keeping your PCB bracket elevated you can do these kind of fun geometry To create kind of a built-in bezel here for the display So that's kind of a cool way because without that you would have a lot of gap that would reveal some of the edges and To get rid of that. I just added This nice beefy bezel and I added some chamfered edges or drafted edges To make it look like it's at a 45 degree and it is and it prints out really well too. So That's cool one thing to note though when you are Creating a sort of a cutout for the display All the displays are going to be different even though the model is one-to-one accurate During the menu failure during the manufacturing process Sometimes it might get offset by a tenth of a millimeter or whatever So you always want to do a 3d printed test piece to show how much of the display you're actually revealing So I'm going to go over to the overhead and show How much offset I've added to the display and it's kind of funny because the The the project itself allows you to draw on the edge So this gives you an indicator of how much of the display the edge of the display you're showing So here you can see i'm drawing at the bottom And as I get to the right side and I move up I'm kind of I could offset that a little bit more And even though i'm already at the final stages of the thing. I thought it was okay, you know It's it's fine. It gets hidden a little bit there where you can still kind of see it So it's it's uh One out of the four Edges are are dead on but this is kind of a cool way to see am I am I showing enough am I revealing enough display But again every single tfd feathering is going to be slightly different because during the manufacturing process Folks have to have to use double-sided tape to stick the display itself to the pcb And it's not always going to be the same. There isn't a machine that does it like perfectly every time So at least with this product the tft feathering you want to be a little bit Um, you just want to be aware of how much you're revealing and how much you're showing off in the display Maybe you don't need to show all the display. Maybe you're doing rounded edges and stuff But just for this project you kind of want to be able to display all of the pixels Yeah, so that's kind of what I got going on there. Um, so just test it All right Cool now the next thing I want to talk about is the uh slide switch and how to create Or rather just to be aware of the the slide switch built-in thing for any project that needs an on-off switch And it's relatively small and it's a handheld. I really like using this uh this method Uh to getting a slide switch. Um Fitted inside here. So The slide switch is able to fit in here at an angle and it gets, um It's it's just kind of press fitted and it's it's friction fitted So that means you don't need any glue or screws to attach it because it really doesn't have any mounting holes But there are a series of walls that kind of keep The thing from being pressed out and you and the on the backside here You can see that there's a nice little opening with some drafted edges that allow you to access The little actuator on the built-in holder I have a full half an hour tutorial on how to put this together step by step I'll have a card in the description So click on those cards if you want to see that and I get uh get the whole recipe on how to design these Because they kind of have to be built into your case, which uh, which is fine But you could also make an external module too, which I also show in that video. So check that one out Um, yeah, just to be aware that it's pretty much the exact same dimensions and recipes So that's kind of what I what I always kind of go to when I want to have an on-off switch that's embedded like that Now the potentiometers the button and the the toggle switch they're all panel mounted So there's nothing really there as long as you have enough clearance around your component You should be fairly good Uh, one thing here though that I probably should have modeled is you see this uh, this big momentary button Normally come with the hex nut and that hex that could be kind of big So I was I got lucky where the hex nut just about started clipping uh, one of these Surfaces here for the built-in side switch, but I was able to get away with it. It wasn't too bad It was just a really nice tight fitting But I wish I had modeled that in here because then I would have maybe pushed us a little bit more So to have a little bit more clearance Um, but yeah, it's always a good thing to model um your hardware because then you can get a really good accurate you know representation of if your stuff's going to uh To intersect or not You can always get a good example of like as your screws are long enough or not Or are they too long right? cool So yeah, let's take a look next at how the two halves are snap fitting and one really good way to do that is to do a cross-section analysis So here looking at it from the side view You can see I have a little bit of a different going on here So on this side you can see I have these uh, the snap fit nubs And the little grabbers on the bottom And what I've done is I've made it so that it doesn't go across the whole surface or the whole length of the case It stops right here right before it starts getting to the uh to the usb connector because this would crash into the feather And that's a bad thing. So that's why I don't have it there let me get rid of uh the analysis the section analysis and just kind of reveal um the the The bottom half because the bottom half is really what has the main snaps I'll hide the hardware as well and the pcb bracket. So here we go So you see here that the left and the right sides are pretty symmetrical. It's it's a mirrored feature So whatever I did here is also on this side But you'll notice that I really I could have done that for this uh the bottom and the top surface But I really didn't need to um, so I just added one here And it's a custom length so it doesn't go across the whole length of it And I like to have these Corners open because it allows the case to be opened more easily a lot of the times you'll see my my sort of classic snap fit cases The snap fit geometry goes along the whole case and that's okay in some certain in some cases But for this one, I wanted to be very uh specific and I wanted to uh have those corners open So that's just easier to open so Now on this surface here, I don't actually have a grabber. I just have a end stop It's just a flat extrude that goes up and there's no tapered angles or anything. It just doesn't need that Um, so if I bring back the top you can see kind of how it Um how it's working there. So this just prevents the case from being uh slid From that way So it just stops that from happening there and then this this stop will stop it from over there that grabber there So that's kind of how that's working And then on the left and the right sides you can't open it because uh Both both both sides are acting on it. So that's uh, that's how it stays secured All right, so sometimes when you're making a snap fit case, you really don't need to uh Have it go across the whole thing be very specific and strategic about where you're going to place your grabbers Where you need them another reason I have it here the snapper on this surface Is because without it I originally just had a regular end stop And what happened was I would see this little gap in between the two Uh, so there there just kept being a gap there like that And so what I ended up doing was is adding that grabber there And that made it stayed secure shut and that's uh, that's a nice way to do it But I didn't really need it here because this area really didn't have a gap because none of the Uh, there's no components really there that are kind of preventing it from from kind of being opened So yeah, that's why I have it very specific on where I put my snaps Now another fun feature on the back here on the bottom half is this button presser And the way the button presser works is that it is designed to to have a little extrusion Uh cylinder and that cylinder hovers right above the feather The the reset button that's on the feather and luckily enough, um Just about all of the feathers have the reset button in the exact same location So for the what I showed you here on physically I have the rp20 40 feather and that tends to work fine because uh, hey the button's right there too It's off a little bit, but it's enough to still actuate it which is fine But with the m4 it's it's pretty perfect and accurate and I actually have a tutorial on how to Sketch this out and using the the thin extrude feature you can create these features Um, yeah Anytime I create this I always have to make the feature a little bit longer than I always think Because your finger it's kind of large and uh, whatever the length is here ended up working really good But with that Once I had that button presser and I wanted to add these these lines to create kind of event opening I had to be strategic about my lines because I don't want them to intersect because then it would just kind of fall apart, right? So, um, yeah, I just use the trim tool when I'm sketching and I just kind of massage The line so they're not Coming across of it. So they're actually two separate sketches and that way they are Independent from each other so you can see here my reset button pusher Is just the line and I use the extrusion line to extrude that out And then my my girls themselves Are are kind of done like that and I just did some offsets once I created it And then I really am a fan of the fillet rule where you can just say hey Hey fillet just just make a fillet on this On this feature because I have too many Edges to select so that's always a good thing too. Um, I'll quickly go to that and see if I can get to it The the fillet rule is always a nice one Oh, where are you fillet rule? There you are. So here's the fillet rule You can always go here under fillet change it to rule fillets and then where it says faces or features I just selected the one extrusion Which was extruding all these lines and I say I only want the fillets and I want the radius of two and that saved me Maybe an hour of having to select Shoes how how many edges is that select? I wish it would tell me how many edges it's doing But it doesn't and I don't have to know about it. I love this feature It's the best So huge shout out to the fillet rule one of one of my time-saving secrets But that's going to do it really. Um, it's a fairly simple case, but there are always some things to look out for Particularly like when you're working with a display like the tft feather wing You have some things to kind of just be aware of you can download the the 3d model for the tft feather wing Just be aware that there are no headers that are populated on there. Maybe you want to add your own So that's why I kind of have it free there But you do have the on board components like the micro sd card and the on off switch the reset button Some of the capacitors and of course the display with the bezel and everything so All right, there you go. Uh real quick. I'll show the learn guide again. You can get uh The full tutorial on how to build it all the parts there if they're out of stock You can of course sign up to be notified when they're back in stock Don't forget you could also check out the github repository and download all sorts of ater fruit models That's gonna do it for me until next time make sure to make a great day. Bye folks