 Bamboo Lab has done a great job packing the X1 machines for shipping. Because of that, it can be a little more tricky than a normal printer to unbox. Today, we're going to go through the unboxing and setup to get you printing fast with your brand new X1 or X1 Carbon. My name's Jim and this is the Edge of Tech. This is the box the printer comes in. I lowered the table down so we could check this out. Once you cut it open, all you have to do is pop open the top and you'll see that it's packed in there pretty dang good. So what we're going to do is take out the two foam pieces, throw those aside. We are going to untape the plastic from the sides of the box because they do a really good job of taping this to the sides of the box so it's sealed. I'm going to lower this down and let the printer come right out just like that. Once the printer's out of the box, just take the plastic off of it. You can do it by pulling it, peeling it, whatever you want to do. I'm going to do it this way and then slide the printer out of the plastic like this. Before you unpack the printer, don't forget in the bottom of the box, they store all of the filament if you've got filament with your printer. So check the bottom of the box and you can remove that filament now. And now we have an Unboxed Bamboo X1 Carbon, time to unpack. Now what you want to do is remove the quick start guide from the top and set it aside and then remove all of the tape, anything with the little green tab like you see here. Make sure you pull that and let's remove all of the tape. So this one's for you. I know you guys like that. We'll do one more at the top. Ready? You guys like that? That's a good one on there. Just like that. That should be all of the tape and the plastic on the front and the top of the machine. At this point, we're ready to take the top off by grabbing the little knob here and be careful. It is not on a hinge or anything, it just lifts off just like that. Then you'll see everything packed in here with the foam. Go ahead and pull all of the foam out like that and throw that aside. Once you have the foam out, you can take the box out that's hiding in here just like this. After that, open your front door and remove the two desiccant packs that are in here. Yes, these are desiccant packs for your AMS if you have an AMS. Also you can slide out your extra sheets here, put those aside. What we want to do is remove this bolt and remove this bolt. This is the shipping locks that hold your AMS in place. If you don't have an AMS, all you have to do is take the stuff out of the inside and we'll skip to the next part. If you do have an AMS, remove these two 2mm bolts. You can use the Allen wrench that came with the kit. I like to use my T-handles. You can find these in the Amazon store in the description of this video. I really like these T-handles. They make things so much faster and easier. Now that we got those two bolts, we can slide the AMS right out the top and set that right next to your machine. Alright, this next part is easier if we look down through the top. I'm looking through the top of the machine and there are three more shipping screws we need to remove. There's one down in here, there's one on the side over here, and there's one back here. They're all the same size, so grab your 2mm Allen wrench and remove this one, this one, and that one. In doing this, it looks like I found a fourth one right over here. There is no arrow by it on my machine, so they might have missed it. But this one definitely needs to come out on this side of the machine as well. So there might be an arrow by yours. So there's one here, one here, one here, and one in there. Once you have those four removed, this will just lift out and you'll remove that from the inside of the machine. Once you lift that out, it's okay to take any foam that's loose out. So I saw that piece in this is not ready yet. Now we can remove the cardboard that's on the hot end and that just peels off and pulls up carefully. Also if you see tape on here, you can remove that at this time as well. There are two more shipping screws, one here and one there. You need to get both of those. So take your 2mm T-handle or the Allen wrench that came with the machine that's in the first box we removed and you can easily put the whole ball in that one. And some people say this doesn't fit, but they're ball ends. You've got to get the whole ball in there to turn it. And then once you do, it'll actually come out. So after you get the two on the side out, you need to get the rear one back here out. Now that is easiest done with the Allen wrench that came with it. I love my T-handles, but it doesn't fit in this area. So grab your Allen wrench that came with it, put it in the back, remember their ball head, and just remove that last bolt and it is literally right there. This may be hard to see, but one piece of foam you don't want to forget is this one right up in here and this is the chute that will empty all of the purges. So make sure you get the foam out of there. So I like that they made this chute clear now so you can see if it was clogging up. In my original version, that was not like that. Now we should be done unpacking the inside until we raise the build surface. Now you want to find the screen that comes in the box that you pulled out of the top and that's going to look like this. You want to peel the tape off that's holding this ribbon cable, but do not lose that ribbon cable yet. Once you peel this off, that needs to clip inside of here. So that clips inside of that screen and it tells you how to do it right on the bottom. So follow these instructions and get this ribbon clipped inside there. Something to note when you're doing this, the SD card slot should face to the right when you're looking at the machine. So you know that the screen goes on like this because the SD card slots here and that way this can push into the back in the correct position. Once you have it in there, these little clips clip into the holes in the machine and the whole screen slides to the left and locks in place just like that. So you should be good to go. Now it's time to peel. Here we go. Okay, I'm looking at the back of the machine now and we are going to put our spool holder on and it comes like this. It was wrapped with a glue stick in my package and it has a little tag here that says spool holder with the little bolt you'll need. They have this screw that's empty and this one we're going to need to remove to put a new one in to hold that spool holder. Grab your two millimeter Allen wrench and just remove this screw here. It's not very long and it just pops out. It's just a tiny screw. So you want to take your spool holder like this. I put a screw in there already and this is where it's helpful to have a very long Allen wrench or the one that came with it is long. I like this T-handle like I said because I can reach through the spool holder, hold that and then we're going to put it in and just tighten in that screw there. Once that one is started, you want to put the other one in. So start it like this. Go in from the very outside there and drop the screw. That's how we roll. Oh my gosh. So once you pick up your screw and you drop it, drop it in like this. Put your Allen wrench in and secure that side. So I'm going to tighten that one in like that. Come back over here and tighten this side in and then we'll move on to the next step. At this point, if you do not have the AMS, you are good to go. If you do have an AMS, take your glass, put it right back on the top, and it goes round the side backwards, handle facing forward. Remember, this is the back of the printer. And just be careful with that. You don't want to drop this glass. You don't want to break it. Once you get that there, take your AMS out. Sit it right on top of the machine just like that. Once you have the AMS on top of the machine, you can take off the tape. I really like that they use, it's kind of like a medical tape on this stuff. So you can take this boating tube here and push it into the coupler that's on the side here. Just make sure it's all the way in there and tight and it's not going to come back out. They give you two pieces like this. These are the connections for the AMS. So one goes from here to here. So we are going to take the first one and put it right under here. The second one is going to go in under here. And the little clip here faces backwards. So it clips in just like that right underneath there. Clips into here like that. The next one clips into the top of the AMS. It does not matter which one you choose. I'm going to choose the left one though. And you cannot mix these up because the cables only go into the certain ones. This cable here only has four slots. The top cable has six slots or wires. So that's where that goes. And then this goes on the left side and the clip faces backwards again and it pops in just like that. So now we have the AMS down into here and then here. This was already pressed in but that's where that goes. And then this boating tube goes into here just like that. And we are good. Now if you haven't noticed, this printer provides plenty of peeling pleasure. So we are going to go ahead and peel the front. Yeah. And then there's one big one right over the top of the AMS here. We're just going to get it started. Hold that and peel that back like that. If you miss any, that's okay. That's just more peeling pleasure that you can do. Now once you have all the plastic removed from the AMS, we can keep moving. Now you want to pop the AMS open, grab the extra boating tube out of there because you won't need that right now. And something that a lot of people didn't show is removing this plastic here. And this just warns you that there's desiccant down in here. So we need to actually open that up and make sure we get that desiccant opened. Just pop this door open. There's one on each side and you can pop the desiccant out. Now these desiccant pouches are in plastic. If you don't remove this plastic, it's not going to help you. So just pop the desiccant right out of the plastic like that. Drop it back into the slot there and push the bottom down and do the same for this side. Next take the roll of PLA that came with the package. My case mine is white here. And what we're going to do is take this tab here and we're going to push it forward. You see how it moves forward there? And we're just going to feed a little bit of the PLA into it. That's it. You just need to go maybe an inch or two, not very far. When we turn the machine on, it's going to do everything it needs to do. Now we just need to plug this bad boy in like this and flip it on. When you flip it on, the screen will come on. You'll see the bamboo lab splash screen like this and it'll boot up. Once it's booted up, we need to walk through the screen setup so we will hit your language in my case English. We'll hit next. We're going to connect to our Wi-Fi connection. So I'm going to go to the Edgitech studios and I'm going to type in my password. Once you have your password in, hit join. Once you hit this button, it'll go through the authentication and connect to your internet. We'll hit next. So now we need to grab our phone. If you have not already loaded the bamboo handy app onto your phone, you want to do that now. You can find it in the iOS store or the Android store or go to bamboolab.com and it's on there as well. Now we have the bamboo handy app open. We want to go up here and hit add on that plus sign. I'm going to scan a QR code. I want to back it up a little until it scans. There we go. So I scanned the QR code and it's asking me if I want to attach this machine to my account. Of course I want to bind the printer to my account. So on the very bottom of the screen, you're going to hit bind and it'll go through the binding process. Now from here you can see I have two printers attached. The first one is called Speedy and I'm going to give this one a new name as well. And this one right here is actually an old one. I need to remove that. I actually renamed that to Speedy after I reattached it. But now we can go back to the front page. We can go to the app or the bamboo studio and start printed to it. Once you have it attached to your account, you'll want to go to hit next here. And it's going to go through the terms and conditions. I'm going to hit agree. You can help them improve or not. I always do with bamboo lab because I want them to know everything that's going on, especially right now in the beginning. So I'm going to hit join. Now what we need to do is calibrate for the first time. So we're going to hit OK. Make sure that the hot end is ready to go. I'm going to hit next. And it's going to run through the very first calibration. And it's going to give you a countdown of how long that's going to take. In this case, it's 0%. It's going to go through the whole homing the tool head, the whole calibration. When we're done with this, we'll pull out the foam that was hiding underneath the bed. Once it's done with calibration, you'll see complete calibrating is done. You can hit next. And initiation is complete. Start to print. Just hit that button. Once your calibration is done and you hit OK, you may see this. This is a new firmware. And you want to make sure you run these. So would you like to go to the firmware page? Yes. We'll hit OK. It tells you we're going to go over the air version 1.0s. On this case, this could be different by the time you're seeing this video because I know they're going to release a new firmware soon. We're just going to hit the update button. And this may take 10 to 15 minutes. I'm going to hit yes. It's going to run through the firmware update. Make sure everything's updated. It's going to get our AMS updated if you have one. And then, after that, we are done with the initial setup and calibration of your X1 or your X1 Carbon. So once we have the firmware updating, this is a great time to prep your build surface. What you want to do is open your door, pop out the magnetic build plate. And there's going to be a note on this. This says to make sure you use a little bit of glue stick on this build surface. The reason why we have to do that is because everything sticks too well. And the glue stick here that comes with it helps stuff release from the build plate. I know in the coming weeks and months and years ahead, there's going to be people trying different build surfaces. I've already seen that on Facebook, on the groups. But in this case, you want to use the cool plate for PLA, pretty much PLA, PETG, that kind of thing. The hot plate, you know, the engineering plate or the hot plate. You want to use that for your polycarbonate, your TPU, that kind of thing. So what we want to do now is set down our build plate, take out our glue stick. And in my case, I've been using Vision Miner on my other machine. But I used glue stick for a long time until I ran out of the glue stick. And then I swapped over to the Vision Miner because I really love the Vision Miner nanopolymer, way more expensive than glue stick. Purple glue stick, Garrett from 3D Print Farm will tell you, purple glue stick is the way to go. But what they gave you here, you just pop it open, kind of open it up like lipstick a little bit. And then all you need is one single pass across the whole build plate, just like that. Make sure you just go line by line by line and just do one single thin pass all the way down. I'm not going to do that because I'm actually going to put my Vision Miner nanopolymer on this. If you don't do that, it's very possible that your first print sticks to this thing too much. And I've seen these sheets peel off when they stick too much. Luckily, they give you two more of the sheets in the package. So that's pretty cool. And you can always replace it. It just peels off and puts it back on. I believe Brian Vines made a video about that for bamboo as well. But just make sure you get your glue stick or something on this before you start your first print. I got the Vision Miner on my build surface here now. If you see this, this is the last of the foam we need to remove. So take out those couple pieces. I tossed them back in the box. Everything should be cleaned out here. There should be nothing left in the bottom, nothing left in the top. And this says our firmware is complete. We're just going to hit confirm and we are good to go. Okay, that's it. We've got the X1 and the X1 Carbon, whatever version you have ready to go. Now I have the AMS. This is an X1 Carbon. We loaded the slot one, the filament slot one, and it pulled it through. If you have an X1, you'll need to do that with the spool holder we put on the back. There's a little Bowden tube sticking out of the top of the machine. Put your filament through the back and just push it all the way in until it stops. Then what you can do is go to the screen, go to your little nozzle, hit it, and then heat it up to like 210 degrees or something. And once it's heated up, it only takes maybe 20 seconds to heat up. It's very fast. On the far right of the screen, there's a little button you can hit down and it'll start extruding. Otherwise, if you don't have to go through that point, once you push the filament all the way in until it stops, you should be good to start your first print. My recommendation on first prints is to go to the folder that's on the screen, click internal and the very first thing or right around there is the benchy. Start with the benchy. It is amazing to see that thing burn the first print you do. It is absolutely stunning to watch it. It's crazy how fast it goes. But if you have the AMS, it'll automatically print from slot one, which is all the way, if you're looking at the machine on your left side, you'll make sure your filament is loaded. So we have slot one, two, three, and four. If you don't have the AMS and you just have the X1 or you don't have an AMS, just load the filament through the back. Like I said, push it all the way until it stops. Everything should go from there. So you'll notice with this video, I didn't go over the stuff that comes with it because other people have already done that. I just wanted to give you a quick guide, video tutorial on getting up and going to get your first print done. And that's where we're at now. So for now, jump on, get your first prints done. I suggest printing some stuff right off the printer. It is amazing to see this thing print. Then jump over to Bamboo Lab myself and some other creators in the space have made some videos on how to get you going past this. So check those out. I hope you guys enjoyed this video. Tag me on the social medias, the edge of tech. Let me see your very first prints. I would love to see what you're doing. And if you do hashtag hot makes, I'll throw it on the show as well on Monday nights. I appreciate you guys watching. We'll see you next time.