 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTechTools, quality tools, essential support. Just got to hop across. Safety's number one. Oh yeah, this must be a makeup area unit up here. Some old buildings. Downtown revitalization. Look at there, some refrigeration. And a green heck. It's something called cool duck. It's like an insulated duck board, but it's like super stinking strong. And we've got a computer system that cuts it out. So you don't have to do anything. That's like mastic style tape of some sort. Supposedly advanced fanciness. You can use it in commercial applications crazy. It's supposed to be pretty badass. Taking a peek-a-poo in here. Got to look like a limit circuitry. Track drive blower motor. We just got to set this thing up real quick. Everything you need to know is right here. A heating inlet sensor. They do have the voltage ran. There's a little switcheroo. Disconnect for this. Looks like it might be off. Let's turn that on and see what happens. That should be on. Guess that should be the limit. So that if it fails out. The fan that it shuts down. I'll have to check and make sure. We got two transformers here. We had some wackiness going on with the transformers last time. Heating inlet sensor. So it has to be at least that temperature for it to run. Usually I think we set her about 55 degrees. They were able to turn it on for me down below. Got an inspection here this morning. Frequency 80 hertz is what it looks like. Set up blah blah blah. Yeah it's hauling ass. We ain't gonna mess with a lot of that. They just want to make it run. Then pass inspection. Then they can fine tune it later. So we got the exhaust running. It's hauling ass. We're gonna have to set up the dampers most likely on this. Which we can get to from the other side. Here's a breakdown of how this thing works. Rods on the front igniters right behind it. You get your dampers open and closed. There's your inlet sensor right here. A little bulb. So that's got a sense that the outdoor air temperatures within the spec range they want. That's the sucker. This is your baffle adjustment. Which they call it something else. Adjusting baffles. I guess it is what they call it. So what you're gonna do is we're gonna adjust this together or away to maintain a static pressure. I believe 0.2 or 1.2. What you do is you set your speed of what your makeup air is supposed to be at. And then you adjust your baffles to match that so that you get the right differential across the burner. We're gonna check that down here. These switches essentially are proof that the motor is running. So it's got to be at least so high of a vacuum it cannot be too high or it shuts down. So it has to be right in the middle there or to run. And you adjust that based off of the baffles. But you need to get your air speed too. So this is completely a waste of time if we're not gonna get that set. All right so we're gonna want to check our gas pressure coming into the unit make sure it's in respect. Which it should be but this is all a fairly new gas line. So we have gas coming. Probably gonna need blood for a while. So it's a good idea to go ahead and bleed it now. This would take forever if you're just gonna bleed on its own through the pilot mechanism. I think it's there. Okay good. Now go ahead and check our pressure. I like the dual port monometer with pressure switch tester. It seems to be really accurate. It's all built in there. Yeah I've got the individual ones by field piece also. But it just simple and it works. Yeah 10 inches why they even afraid to crank it out. Well technically we're in spec as far as I know that's usually fine. Let's take a look here at our data plate somewhere in here it should have it. Normal manifold pressure five inches minimum gas pressure for maximum output seven inches. They don't really read it as a maximum but we're gonna be fine. We definitely hit our minimum usually 13 inches is where things start getting crappy. And there is our pressure drop right at those two works right there. We need to be between 0.2 and 1.2 for our plate adjustments on our differential. Which I'll shoot I think for 0.6 right in the middle area. That way if they speed it up and slow it down we should be good. We'll right inside here what our inches of water column was today. And that way we'll have for later. That way if things change we'll be able to say hey it wasn't like that before. Also this is your wiring for bringing on the burner which I believe we have to hit the W1 there. What we can do I've got tees we can put in in line with this and just check it out or whatever. We can go ahead and go right there and there we'll just put our tees in there like that. Hook that on there like that and hook the pressure port thing on here. By checking it this way you're checking across the whole circuitry of the pressure switches to see whether or not there's an issue with any type of leakage in the hoses or in the diaphragms of the switches. So we're going to kick it back on since they're really not wanting it to truly set up we're just going to get our static pressure set so that it leaves a little fire and run. That could have changed since the factory because of the static pressure on the ductwork. I don't know why we're running h-hurst though it just seems awfully fast. So we're running right now at a .25. They are running the test right now to make sure that when the fire alarm trips that this thing shuts down which the damper just shuts. And we're waiting yep there it goes you can hear the fan dropping. Good deal. Theoretically they don't really care whether the machinery works as far as per se it actually produces heat. They want to make sure that for fire reasons that it yep there it reverses. It must have untripped it. Good deal. Now we can probably set it up. So in the read the fantastic manual natural gas .625 to .675. We're going to write that right inside there. I don't believe it's yeah it's not out here but we're going to write it inside there so that we have that. That way it's not have to be looked up again because you know it's all gone well somebody's going to come along and take these manuals because they don't have one and then you're never going to see it again. So let's get that written in there. You know we may never work on this thing again but somebody definitely appreciate it that it's been done right. We'll loosen up these bolts here and here and get her squeezed together. Here we go. Hey you're hacked because they're the ones that are idiots. That's uh still not where they wanted at at .625. So like I said you probably have to close it completely down. That just seems like always the case. It must be when they have completely screwed up ductwork that it's not doesn't work out right. So we'll do another adjustment here. We made one more adjustment now we're .65 to .62, .67. So that looks just about right where they told us to put it at, don't it? As you can see we are just barely covering that so that there's not leakage at the top. I mean there's no daylight. Same thing with down here. So we're going to tighten that up. This, you had it at. That way somebody screws with it later along at the frequency that it was running at at the time. You can tell the fire is a lot of junk build up there. We have verified it's spinning the right direction I believe. This one here actually works like you would figure. It cuts into the air and pulls it through. So this is more of an inline more than the traditional exhaust. So I'm wrong on that. But yeah that's going the right direction. Once again put a little arrow in there. We get judged for our callbacks here. So if you screw up you don't get paid to go back. But we get a bonus for doing it right. We actually make more money that way. So we take on the responsibility that the company would normally take on. It's an incentive to do shit right. When we get ready to fire it off here's where our minimum firing rate is going to be adjusted. And right on the traditional gas valve is where our maximum is going to be adjusted at. Like I said this is nothing but an open close switch here. Let's check our voltage and see what our transformers are tapping in at. Kind of a weird thing to show you but they're literally restoring these bathrooms. Everything those are all new toilets. Floor's been redone believe it or not. This is where I used to come as a kid to go dancing. Perti historic. Oh the crap the dance floor is still exactly the same as it was back then. I literally DJ'd up there. This used to be like an opera house long, long ago. There's all the neon lighting and stuff like that and the mirror bowls. Yeah they completely revamping this whole thing. So I think I found where the kitchen area is at. Yep kind of crazy. Well let's go back up there. They're done testing now we can actually run it. And I get this thing going. Wanted to check our power here on common and R. We have 24 volts so it appears we've got that wired right. We also have a transformer over here. We have an isolation transformer I believe on one of these because that was what I found out the last time. That one's not adjustable and that one's not adjustable either so it don't really matter. What we've got right here is two wires coming from R and G. Just coming in right here and G here. We're going to have to jump G to W to get heat. Then when it's cold enough it'll automatically switch over and bring on the burners. Then this control here so if it's zero degrees outside it's going to put out 70 degrees. That's the design of it. So even when it's negative 10 out you're still going to be putting out 60 degree air in a hot kitchen. That's going to feel good actually. So the whole point is the temper of the air. We've got our temperature probe down here in the duck work in the middle. We're going to get ready to fire that off here in just a little bit. So what we did here is we had a jumper between R and R. As you can tell there's no wires in that particular R there. So I just took it out of there. Same thing with like this common right here. You can see there's no other common in there. So you can even stole it from there. Gotta make sure you get them in nice and power otherwise it won't hold there. There you go. Give it a tug. Yep, give it a tug. Your tug both of them are tight. So here it should actually bring on the gas. You've got that thermostat there to have a call for it. This isn't tripped. 160 areas about as high as you can get it. Which any residual heat probably be good to have that. Nothing's going to catch on fire at 160. So we're just going to leave that at max. It actually stops there. They can go higher but they've got to stop. So we're going to leave it at that. There's the ignition blinking. Just try to click. You have a burner. Yeah, we can see it right here. We have a blinking red which is no flame. This is going to drop out fairly quickly because of the BTU this thing is rated at. Any of them actually do. But this is a 200,000 BTU potentially with a minimum of about 16,000. They don't really want to dump that kind of fuel in there and have it not ignite. So we're going to do this again. We should be able to turn the stat down. That should break it. Yep, bring it back up and reset. We'll let it try again. You've got to get some purging going on here across and up to there. Now you've got to remember it's 65-70 degrees out here. So the air is going to be thinner when it gets colder. Characteristics are going to change. And even though we might get it partially set up today, it's still going to probably need fine-tuned when we get colder. That failed out again. We'll do this a couple of times to see if we can get it. It might be trying to fire and the minimum flame is the problem right now. It's so low that it can't establish a flame. Now something to keep in mind here. Say it's 65 out and we have a 70 degree rise built into this. The discharge is going to be 135 degree air. Well, yeah. Because it's going to measure the discharge temperature. It's going to try to maintain 70 degrees. That's probably a lot of what we've got going on here. Crank that up. Then our maximum fire is how we're going to adjust our temperature rise. All right, little basic common sense here is pretty simple once you figure it out. So what I did is I went down to that frequency. Let's escape out of here. So here's your parameters, all that stuff. Your voltage, amperage. So there's your frequency. F for frequency. So all I did was hit enter, started blinking. You can take the frequency up or down, whatever you want to do. And then when you hit enter, which I think it was at 70 earlier, hit enter. Instantly it goes back up. Now what happened obviously when I slowed it down is my differential went to crap. So we're probably going to have to leave it where it was at. Otherwise, this is not going to meet its own specifications. So it must be designed to be a high velocity lower deal here. I have to get back up to 80. Escape back out, goes back up to 6.62. We ain't got no choice but to leave it there. I don't think it's kind of crazy. But that's, that ain't so hard. Just got to kind of think it out what it's got to do. So just scroll to it, hit enter. Up, down, enter. Escape back out. Good to go. I can't believe I went through that and fought it so bad the last time. Crazy. All right, I think I found the problem. I don't know how they had enough before. Maybe it's just because maybe they had a pressure test. I smelled gas unless they shut my gas off. Yeah, we should be getting something. Let's go downstairs and see if that gas meter is still on. All that goes to is over here. So that's not it. It must be something on the other side of this wall. Let's see the line set comes down through here. I would speculate. It's got to be down below there. If I find it. No, there's newer, you know, flexible down here. Burn up on this stuff later. Well, at least we got solenoids on this. They're going to try to pump the whole thing down. I mean, something's kind of burning my eyes in here. I don't know if it's the caulking or what. Man, oh man, that kind of hurts. Oh wow, if you ain't paying attention to come out of that cooler. That sucker. Man, yeah, that caulking stuff they did. Holy crap. That stuff burns the eyes. I hope that's what it is. I stand corrected. That goes across, goes over to there, goes into that stainless steel and up to the rough. Should have gas now. All right. We're blood out good now. Let's try this again. We've got the main shut off going to the main burner, but that allows still the pilot valve to light. It did light. We have a solid green light there. So we should be able to see a pilot flame here. I can't even see it when I cut my eye over it. But it obviously must have lit because it's got a solid green. We turn on that main and see we got power to our max troll valve there. If we turn that on, it'll get, it'll get crazy up in this mug. There she goes. Look at our heat. Shit, probably start changing there. Maybe, maybe not. Yeah, it's going up the minimum. All right. Go ahead and put this thing in the maximum fire. So like we says right here, remove the wire connected to terminal three of the max troll, 14 or 44 series amplifier, 14. That's what this one is. So terminal three, remove it. Let's go ahead and kill the main valve first so we don't overheat it. So we've done that. We're going to open up our main valve here and then we're going to adjust our gas pressure back up. I took it out so that we wouldn't overheat the building any quicker and we needed to go ahead and put this on differential down here. Set it up for a 70 degree differential. So we'll go in here and go to differential right now. It's about a two degree differential between the two, which I don't have the probe in the end, but it's in the shade just like this is in the shade. I'm not horribly worried about it. Let's go ahead and open this up. So we've got that open. Watch our temp down there. Climb up to 70 and then we should be good. Okay, 69.4. I'm happy with that. I don't want to go too much more. So we can go ahead and see what our total output temperature is. We just hit different pitch there. Something got shut down. They probably shut it off downstairs at 108 and can drop it. So somebody probably just jacked with it, but we got it set so not a big deal. Either that or there's actually a maximum temperature downstairs possibly depending on how fancy the electronic thing was. We can jump that to find out. All right, so it just came back on again. It must have hit temperature downstairs. So we're done with that. We'll go ahead and put this back up. Now our static pressure has changed a little bit, but like I said, we need a minimum of 0.2. So we're well above it. So even if it, you know, because of this weather, we're good. I am going to market that that was at frequency 80.7. That's as high as I can go with it. Here that way we know what we had when I had it at that particular setting. If somebody else come along later and change it, then they're like, no, you never had that before. And it's like, well, that was at that particular frequency because obviously slow down is going to change. There we go. So we got a little documentation there. Good deal. We got that wire hooked back up on three. We'll go ahead and take our meter off. I just got a double checker setting here. And then we'll be done here in a little bit. That right there is the desired discharge temperature. 65 is typical, which I can agree with that. So we'll take that down to 65. There we go. To the last thing you want is hot air blowing on you. So that kind of is a double back up there. So you've got the air never getting above 65 coming out. You've got your maximum down here set so that it can't be no more than a 70 degree rise, no matter what. You've got your outside air here getting adjusted so that it won't even run unless it's at least 60 or 55 degrees. I'm going to set it at 60. That can always be adjusted later. So whenever it's calling, it's always calling for heat. But unless this closes, it's not going to run. Just recap it. We took off three that put it in maximum fire. And we adjusted maximum fire here at the main gas valve. This is going to modulate open and closed so that it can maintain that temperature rise. And then your minimum position is down here, which I'm not going to set it today because of the weather and stuff. It's not going to be accurate anyway. But you actually will close that down. And generally you set it up so just it has a ribbon across the burner. And it's going to be really difficult. And I would do it possibly now, but it'd be really difficult to see it. I don't think they got another light, another... Yeah, there's no way for me to see the burner because they got this on the end. I could drill a hole possibly. Actually, I can't even do that because that fan is the way it is. But normally the fan is the scroll cage fan and you can see it. It's going to be difficult to see it. I'm going to see what they say in the book, but I don't even know if this book's been updated for that kind of blower. But for the most part, usually it's fine. The minimum is just so you don't overfire when you're in mild temperatures like this. And it just gives it a heck of a back and forth with the control trying to maintain that 65. And if it's too high on that minimum, that could cause a bunch of issues there. Our minimum set by just taking one of the wires off the modulating valve there and having a call for the heat and just have yourself a small ribbon right across the burner. So that's about all you got to do on that. The only thing I forgot to look at is my Maximandrel. But we'll look at that right there. Which I can't see it from here, but. So it's usable amps 4.64. And there's your amperage ramping up. And back down it goes to 6.2. That's it. So that's going to wrap this one up guys. There's not a whole lot more to do here. We just set up our burners and stuff for the correct temperature rise, like I said. If it was colder, I'd be putting that in my intake. But since it's not, I'm not too worried about it. I'm just dangling off the side. All guys, if you enjoyed the video and you want to see more like it, make sure you give it a thumbs up. Don't forget to check me out on Instagram. Until next time, we'll catch you on the next one. Later.