 You're basically creating small little graduated areas as you work up the head. What's up guys welcome to today's video. Today we're going to be going over a short disconnected haircut. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to section right above that parietal ridge area. So this little curve of the head right here that's the parietal ridge. So I comb that hair back and then I'm going to draw a line straight back just like that nice horizontal line. Then what I'm going to do is I'm going to comb this hair up and over right at that crown area and I'm going to draw another horizontal line across mid-crown. I'm going to comb this hair now forward because that's how I'm going to part it. And now what I'll do is I'll kind of stand in front of my client and when I stand in front of him I can really see kind of with my thumb where I want that endpoint to be. So I can see this endpoint here I hold that with my thumb and then when I want to balance it I can hold my thumb right there and then when I turn him around and I decide where I want to comb this hair forward to I know what point at about what point I want to hit with my thumb. Then you look in your mirror and you can decide if it's balanced enough for your liking. Next move is to work horizontally with our wide comb. There's a couple different combs that you can use. I think it's the 258 from Y.S. Park I believe is one comb that I choose often and then I have this guy which I got at just a beauty supply store but I love this comb because it's super wide and the other thing I like about it is it's very slippery and the reason I like that is because when I'm removing bulk with a clipper it just works really well to slide across the top of that clipper. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to go in I'm going to scoop up the hair and remove that bulk. Now there's a couple of things that you have to understand when you're cutting clipper over comb. You're basically creating small little graduated areas as you work up the head. Now you don't want too much graduation in a disconnected haircut. So what we're going to do is we're going to take this up kind of tight to the top of the head. So we're going to go graduation slightly all the way up and then that's where we go there. All right so here we go. So we bring the hair back I comb it through. I don't really care because I want to work quickly. I don't really care if I get everything in this especially when I'm trying to just get the bulk out of the hair. So I'll lift it up and I'll just start getting the hair shorter as I work up horizontally. Now this isn't the the final length. All right so I'm going to work my way back. So again scooping out like this and then working diagonal back on the head shape. Now there's something we have to be aware of as we move into the back of the head is this crown area. I do not want to shave this all the way up to this mid crown. So what I may do is just section off a triangle to give you guys more of a visual. Actually I will do that. Obviously you guys can section it off if it makes you more comfortable as well. So a little triangle I point the tip of that triangle to the occipital bone in the head shape. So now I'm just going to work diagonal back on the head. A couple things you might notice about what I'm doing. I switch the comb back and forth a lot. Now if you think about hair cutting in general if I cut everything horizontally then I might check it vertically right cross-checking. So same thing with clippering if I'm doing a diagonal back and I work through and cut my line and then I go diagonal forward. I'm really just cross-checking and cleaning everything up. The other thing is right along this ridge this hair gets a little bit longer that's our graduation right. So you can see how it kind of builds up and we're building up that kind of straight line right there. So I'm going to come up and I'm going to soften that graduation just a little bit right along the edge because you don't really want this hair sticking up over and then having a ton of weight lines sticking out. So see how I just soften that edge just a little bit. Now we go along these edges you can see it's a little bit longer here. So now I go in with my clipper guards. Now I go in I got my Andis T-trimmer. So now obviously I'm going to cut into it a little bit soften it up but I'm going to take this first little triangle bit out here. So now what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a diagonal back parting just like this hold it in my hand like this and I'm going to take the tri razor and I'm just going to glide it right through. So I take the tri razor I can see this length underneath and that's about what I want to match up with and I just glide right through and cut it nice and short. Take another diagonal back parting bring this over to that section so over top of the previous slide and glide that through starts to build up a little bit of weight. Now we got that weight starts to go diagonal back now we're going to do the same thing on the opposite side what I'm going to do now is I'm going to take my sections just like this take a section bring it back cut it right across here in the back and I'm just going to take the 100% cutting side and just work my way across the top but it's nice and soft because we're doing it with a razor now if you want to do it with scissors you could do that as well and I'll show you guys maybe the difference there take the same party in the back but I'll just bring this hair back to me like this just like this back to me and I'll point cut across the top all right so right here you can see it's still got quite a bit of volume quite a bit of length some people really like that I have a couple clients that like to keep it nice and long in the front like that I'm going to blow this dry and then give it a little bit of style and then we're going to cut into it with a little point cutting I'm going to show you guys a couple tricks with the tri razor and then you know we'll go from there a couple tips here I like to take the brush add some tension and kind of hold this hair up and what that'll do is allow me to hit it hit it with the blow dryer just like this I'm a nervous blow dryer by the way hit it just like this and allow that heat to make the hair stand I haven't put any product in the hair yet you could always use like a little bit of a light hold gel if you wanted to but you don't have to and I like to just keep that heat in and just really smooth that hair out and then once I get the style kind of looking in the direction I want it to be then that's when I'll you know kind of stop the blow dry but you can see it's got tons of volume already nice little flow to it but it does feel a little bit heavy in certain areas which is what I like to see so I can go in and kind of take care of that all right so here is a couple tricks with the tri razor you got somebody with thicker hair horizontal section from the rest forward velcro clip now I can take this hair and go mid shaft if I want to 25 texture and just work in that way so just like this pop it in and I'll just remove a good amount of weight you also do that with a texturizing scissor I just really love the versatility and using a razor in my haircuts so that pops through gives some texture into the haircut and also removing some of that weight see how it starts to now it's like a little bit fuller and then just gets a little sleeker towards the back that's all part of that texturizing what's another thing that happens with this haircut is this front can kind of fall down so depending on which way they want to wear it you could always cut into it a little bit like if I wanted to they're going to wear it off to this side sometimes I'll just come into this corner here and I'll take this hair and I'll just soften it I can use 25 texture so I don't cut everything and just kind of soften through it so that that starts to lay a little bit nicer and it doesn't flop down as much and now and in this back point because we cut everything with a razor it doesn't perfectly blend right here so you could either do scissor over comb which is what I'm going to do or you could do clipper over comb again like we did at the beginning of the video so now we can finish it off with a couple different style products first one I'm going to use is barbers classic