 Welcome to Desklydata. Hey, everybody. Welcome to Desklydata. Happy Thanksgiving, everybody. And don't forget, we pop that graphic up. We've got a festive Friday sale, FFS. That's kind of how we feel. Yeah. Coming up to here. Here's the thing, everybody. Everyone says they want to support open source and something like a woman-owned manufacturing company in USA. Well, you know, we don't do all the things that websites do, like pop-ups and cookies, all the things that make shopping online terrible. Yeah. But we do, because we know everybody's burnt out with sales and everything, but what we do is this is our biggest sale. 15% off. Anything that's in stock from Friday. That was Friday. All the way to Monday. Monday. So you sell plenty of time. Whatever we have left in stock, please stop by and support a company that's trying to do as good as possible in this world that needs it. But, Desklydata, what is on your desk this week? Okay. Well, this week I did a lot of revisions this week, so I did not do a lot. Well, I did some new hardware, actually. So let's show off the new hardware I got, and then I'll do the samples. So let's go to the overhead. So the first thing is we finally got into the shop. I think I told you guys about this. So these 3.5-inch capacitive touch displays was the HX8357D. So actually, we've been selling the ones with the resistive touch for a bit, and I actually ordered 800 of the ones with the capacitive touch like in 2014, and then I completely forgot that I had them, which is really, really embarrassing. But then Mr. Lady and I had to clean out an area, and we found these bins, and I'm like, what's in these bins? And I'm like, oh my god, it's 800 TFTs. So I quickly wrapped up this breakout, which also has an iSpy connector on it because I made the default SPI, I scored C, to do capacitive touch in a big display. And then I was like, well, I have to get one of these displays because I don't want to move them again. So I made a feather wing design. So this is the feather wing design version, and I've got here the RP2040. The only thing is, so I made a little bit of a mistake. So if you look down here, because this design has these header pads that go over, I was able to do the cutout, and the cutout goes around the capacitive touch chip. Like this is the focal touch. FT5336 chip. So this cutout goes around, and I had like a very similar cutout, but because this was like flush, this actually, this part bumps into, you can see like it's bumping in. And so this is not sitting flat because it's bumping into the chip. So what I am going to do is, I'm going to extend this like another 0.2 inches, and then I can make the cutout, you know, because I don't want to actually break this. I want to have it cut out but open. That makes sense. Like I don't want to, I could just like cut this piece out here, but I don't want to have like a two little nubs. I'd rather just have it be a little bit bigger. So it won't be the same size as the resistive touch one, but I think that's okay. And I got like a stomach QT, it enables so I can turn it off and turn it back on. And then you can see, and this has a multi-touch actually, so you can touch, wait, hold on, could touch three, four fingers at a time. This is apparently five piece multi-touch. And unlike some other multi-touch displays, you can actually do it with like more than one finger at a time. Like the other ones, the 2.8 inch ones, they were like multi-touch, but they weren't really, like you had to have the fingers be on the opposite side of the board, which is kind of silly. So this design is good to go. I kind of like it, so I'm just going to extend this out, and then hopefully that'll lie flat and that, you know, electrically it's all working, but mechanically I'm still in progress. Another sample I just got today, so I haven't even gotten time to try it out, is, you know, we sell sensors and stuff with stomach QT, but a lot of people are still using the Grove system from SEED. It's a system that basically uses a four pin connector, but it might be analog, it might be your, it might be I squared C, which I find a little bit like engineering wise, like freaks me out, because you could just like misplug it, but I guess I don't know, people figure it out. So this is one, two, three, four, five, six ports, and if you look at the text, I think I showed this off last week, maybe, maybe not. So this is the A0, A1 port, A1, A2, A3, A4, A5, and this is RX and TX, so it's one UR, and then these two are I squared C, so it's two I squared C ports, one UR, and then three analog, and then there's a tiny bit of space left over so I could fit a vertical stomach UT port. So this connector, I actually, you know, I'll be honest, I haven't found this connector on Digi-Key yet. I just buy it as a Grove connector, but I'm going to try to find it again, but it's actually kind of, this fits kind of nicely. So this is the non-latching connector, but there is a spot for, you know, it does have the little latchy bit, so if I can find some older ones, but it has a nice press fit feel. So, you know, I think people use Grove, you know, like I have a Grove kit left over, this is it, and analog microphone. So, you know, I'll test that out with the, you know, Feather M4 RP2040, but this would fit either on top of a Feather or side to side. So you'd have a good doubler, and you'd have, you know, the Feather here, and then you could have the Grove Feather wing, maybe on this side, so he doesn't block the battery. And then, you know, if it's on top, and stacked on top, then you have a little right angle reset switch. So, I don't know, I think that's kind of nice. So there's two prototypes, and then, how are we doing on time? Get some samples. Yeah, you're into stuff. Okay, great. I'm going to do a couple samples, and I'll wrap up. So this is an acute sample. So we have those 808 step switches that people really liked, and someone emailed, and was like, oh, by the way, they also have, the same company makes these cool illuminated square switches, which are kind of breadboard friendly, because they've got everything, I think it's like on 0.1 inch boundary, and you see there's two extra pins for LEDs. So, only thing is, to use it on a breadboard, I had to put some solder on these LED pins, because they were very narrow, but then here is, it's wired up five volts, going through the switch, and then to a resistor. So when you press it, you know, it makes the connection. And you know this, it's a little blown out on the overhead. I don't know if I can get it to be. Yeah, it's like hard to see. It's, it's kind of a nice, even white color. I don't know, it's not to believe me. It's not like super, super diffused, but it's like, you know, somewhat diffused. So a nice square illuminated 12 millimeter switch, which I like it, can we use 12 millimeter switch pinout? So I, you know, I got just a pack of four of these. So I'll probably get these in stock. And then I got this, I actually didn't try this out yet, but this is a request. This is a potentiometer that is, this is weird, this is a 360 degree potentiometer. You see, like I'm turning it, I'm turning it, it goes all the way around. It's 360. And you're like, how is that possible? The way it works is that there's two potentiometers, and they're like off by, like 90 degrees or something. And so when you measure, there's like going to be a gap in one of them, where there's a discontinuity, you measure the other ones. So you like, you measure both and it'll tell you like which, where you are, you can like figure out where in the 360 degree curve you are. I haven't tried this out yet. Very interesting, interesting invention. I'll try that out. And then I got a couple other samples. Let's see. I got these, I like these panel mounts, these round panel mount extenders. So this is one for RJ11, not RJ45, which confused me. At first I was like, why isn't this working with my ethernet jack? Because it's not ethernet, it's phone. Although a lot of other things use it. You know, not just phone these days, a lot of other things use RJ11. So it's got all six wires connected and it's just a pass through. And then you know, you can mount this to your casing. When I look at the round ones, it's like, you know, just drill a big hole. I think it's like a one and a quarter inch hole. And then, you know, you've got a bit of a lip here. It's what covers up in the wood or the metal any imperfections. And it's kind of a nice bezel look. So this is an RJ11 extender, which I liked. And then this is an RJ45 like pass through like a fort. I don't know. Like a, I don't know. Yeah. It's like a pass through sort of thing. So it's like, it's just pin to pin on either side. And then you can have, you know, just mount it through again. This one is the round style where you just drill a hole and then you can mount this with a lip in. So I like this as well. I also got some cob LEDs. So this is a chip on board LED strip, but we've, and we stocked these before, so you're probably like, why is this different than what you already got? This one is five volts, not 12. Let's see if I can power this. So so it's, I'll say like, you know, it's hard to see from here. So it is, you know, chip on board. So it's like nice even, not as even as the 350 LED per meter version with 12 volt, because it has like, you know, the LEDs clustered. This is draws like one and a half amps. So I don't know, I can like do the math. It's like 100 LEDs or something. So it's like 120 LEDs per meter, 100 LEDs per meter, not 300. So it's not as even, but it's fairly even. So this is pink. And then what's interesting is I got one that's it's violet, but I don't know if it's UV. And if it isn't, I would like to get UV because that would be cool. Yeah. So this is violet, but I don't know if it's, but I like that it's five volts. I'm like, I'm kind of, I'm into like, you know, 12 volts is good for power, but no, no, this is not so. So grab some alligators. This can click onto here and then this can click onto a little bit. Yeah. So this is like, I don't have anything here that's UV reactive, which is like, Oh, you know what? Maybe I do. I have some like, some goth waiver clothing in the back of my closet. So I'm going to see if this makes it like glow in the dark stuff. You know, UV glow. And if so, I think that could be kind of fun because people are always looking for like controllable UV stuff to edge light. Like phosphorescent, fluorescent, phosphorescent, fluorescent acrylic. And this could do a great job of it and it'll be very, very slim. So this is kind of neat. So I asked the company, hey, can you give me like the spec sheets for the LEDs because it's unclear if it's like true ultraviolet or if it's just like, Oh, it's like white painted with a, a phosphor that's, looks violent-ish, but it's not true UV. And then finally, last sample I did today is, you know, I get, I have a couple of suppliers of Neopixel strips because to just, you know, keep reliability up. I want to make sure I have more than one vendor. So I double source them. And I use this cute QE-Pie, RP2040 and with our Neopixel BFF. And whenever I have to test Neopixels instead of like constantly wiring them up, I hook up this cable and then I can plug this in. So this goes black. That's okay. Moment. Let's see. This is the black wire, red wire. And and because it's circuit python, it's like, you know, if I have to tweak it, you know, change the length or change the brightness, but then it's just a quick way for me to check like, is the color correct? Is the brightness reasonable? Does it seem to work? What does it look like? So this is my little, this is my little Neopixel demo tester. So I keep this on my desk because I'm like constantly testing Neopixels. So that's my sample Sunday. Get back to more engineering next week, but I had a lot of tricky instead. How are we doing on time? What do you do? Let's go to the great search. Let's go to the great search. The great search by Digikey and Ada Frunta. Thank you. Digikey, every single legal user power of engineering to help you. Yes, you find the things that you need on digikey.com. Lady Ada, what are you looking for this week? Okay. So this week, you know what? It's funny. I forgot to grab my solder tips. So hold on. Let me just carefully. All right. We interrupt this to show a sale graphic. Don't forget, sale graphic. Yeah. Yeah. Let's be up on Monday. All the way to Monday on Monday. In case you're wondering, we're still doing the sale. Yeah. Yeah. And then we're done. Okay. Lady Ada will return. Shit, I can't. I can't bring the fine pitch tip, but I can show some other tips. So so I saw this, you know, whenever I'm doing the great search, I have a couple things that I'm going to do for my designs. But I thought there's actually a really good great search because a common thing I suggest to people and they don't understand why I say, oh, you know, it doesn't matter if you certainly get like an official best high quality $500 Metcow. But whatever you do get really good tips for your iron, the tips are actually kind of the most important part. And this person who posted shows why. So there's an image and the solder, you know, this is a blade tip. So the one on the top, you see it's pitted and blackened and the one on the bottom is nice and shiny. So if you're not getting real tips, you're like, I'm going to save a couple bucks and you get like, you know, two dollar solder tips. They are, you know, especially using with the lead with lead free, which is higher temperature, the metal is going to get damaged and that the coating isn't hardened. And as you use it, it'll wear away and eventually you will lose that shiny cover that lets it conduct heat to your electronic components and won't work anymore. And you'll be sad and you'll be like, how come I hate soldering so much. So it's really important to make sure that you get good quality tips. So I'll show some tips on the overhead real fast. These are like really used. These are obviously not brand new. But in addition to like pointy tips, this is a one here. Autofocus. Whoops. Actually, hold on. I know what's with these on here. Autofocus. Zoom. Zoom. Oh, my goodness. Look at how it's zooming. Okay. So this is a hoof tip. Again, these are like these, the black spots, it's just oxidized fluxes. They're actually, these are very clean, good quality tips. So the hoof tip, good for drag soldering for QFPs or QFNs. I'll admit, I don't, I don't get I don't do drag soldering as much. It's a sidelistic thing. Some people like to do it. But hoof tips will hold a little bit of solder on the tip there, but still be, you know, a fine, a small amount so you won't get as much bridging. Of course, your standard screwdriver tip. You know, in general, the shorter the tip, the better the heat conduction. So stubby and you see this is nice and shiny and it's got the screw drive. There's a little oxidation on there from, you know, flux or whatever, some plastic. Stubby, shiny and, you know, nice edge that will be used for conducting heat. This is, this is kind of neat. This is a resistor remover tip. So it looks like it's like, oh no, what happened? Is it busted? No, it's actually on purpose. This is a, I think oh, 603 remover. So the tip is exactly the same distance as well, this is a 805 resistor. Let me see if I have to find somebody with a 603. Hold on. Yeah. So this is the same distance as a 603 so you can heat up both sides easier and then you flick it off. So good for rework, for removal, not for placement. And then one of my favorites, these are expensive, but oh, so nice when you are hot bar, soldering OLEDs or reworking or removing large components. You want to heat up all the pit pads of a SOAC 28 at a time or a TQFP 100. You know, this, it will do the job. These are, you can see this big chunky part here is what retains the heat to get it to the blade. So, you know, these are going to be more expensive, but these are very, very nice, especially if you're, if you do a lot of big rework, it's definitely worth the price. And then of course, find pitch tips as well, which, you know, I'll show better on Digikey for SMT work. So let's go. So can you go back to that, persons? So they're looking for T15. So if you go to Digikey, for any iron you have, you're going to be able to get tips. And I always recommend getting like a couple extra ones, especially of the very pointy SMT like fine pitch one, because that one is the one that's going to, the tip is so small, it's the most likely to get damaged and eventually it will wear away the coating and you'll want to replace it or you will be able to conduct heat very well. So you can go to the computer. Okay. So we can just look for a hat going general. Of course, you can buy soldering irons, a variety of them and the assemblies and the pieces, all in this beautiful purple and yellow, colorway. You know, I think the FX series is what I have, the FX888. Maybe this isn't different. Oh, these are tweezers handles. Sorry. Oh, those are for like, you know, you get like tweezers and you can like grab parts as we also leave it for rework. Soldering. Okay. I guess they go with it all together. So let's go to just the active and let's go for in stock. We'll just to minimize. So tons of tips. So the T18 tips, those are used for the FX888 stations, which is what I recommend for beginners because they're about a hundred bucks. Do you see here square? You know, I'll tell you another thing. This is definitely a place where I sort by most popular down because the most popular tips are going to have the most at stock. The D24, 2.4 millimeter inch wide screwdriver or the 1.6 inch screwdriver or the 3.2. 3.2 is like for chunky through-hole. But like fine through-hole, either the D24 or D16 will do fine. And then this is, this is the finest pitch one that you can get for the HACCO. It's the B, which I would recommend. Honestly, if you're if you're going to get a FX88, it doesn't come with one of, so it doesn't come with a B. It comes with a screwdriver. I think a D24 or D16. So you'll definitely want to pick up a couple of these for SMT work soldering small components. Or even I like to drag solder with a fine tip. Here's another fine tip. This is 0.8 inch, sorry, 0.8. I don't know the difference between these 0.8 and, these look very similar. This is the same. Another thing that's interesting is if you're buying tips for, oh, an angle tip, I don't tend to use these, but some people like them. Oh, this one's like very fine pitch. But no, because this is so narrow and thin, you're not going to get a lot of heat at the tip there. Like this is for, you're going to get very frustrated for trying to do a lot of soldering with the tip, this pointy. Not for these Metcalf tips, but for some tips, the temperature of the iron is set by the tip, not by the body of the iron, like the temperature, making like whatever the base, the brains. On hack goes, you have a dial that you turn and you set the temperature. So if you're using lead free versus lead soldered, you would change, you know, to temperature 750 versus 650. But if you're using something like a Metcalf or some other like high end soldering irons, the tips themselves are what sets the temperature, because they have the measuring, the temperature measuring element, and that will determine that the temperature that the tip is at. Just watch out, because you might be, if you get leaded versus lead free, you might be going above or under temperature. But none of these, all of these hack tips are passive style. So you don't have to worry about that. And then this is kind of cool. Whoa, this is like a cartridge offset. Oh, this is a desoldering nozzle. Oh, I see there's a vacuum. So there's a heating element, and then there's a vacuum so you can heat and suction at the same time. And then this is the T15 series. So this is, I guess, for a different iron than what I'm used to, because these are like, you know, these are like these types of tips where they poke in and the heating element is within the tip itself, which makes them a little more expensive. Low-cost tips, they're just metal and they go around the heating element, but they don't necessarily make very good, like they make okay contact, but they don't make like fused bonded contact. So these are going to get just faster heat up, better thermal conductivity, better heat transfer. But I'd say, you know, if you have your classic HACCO compatible or HACCO soldering iron, I'd say pick up these to start. And get like two, you know, they're 10 bucks a piece, but they last a very, very long time. You know, I think I have my FX88 that I use almost every day. And I've had one of these B-tips. I only change them out every like, maybe once a year or twice a year. So good quality tips are worth it for sure. And that's the great search. That's a great search. Brad, thanks everybody. We'll see everybody all throughout the week. If get-sell continues through Monday, have a fantastic week, everybody. I'm going to have my leftover potato. Yum. Yum.