 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTech Tools. Quality tools, essential support. Now there is also oil inside too. Unfortunately, I can hear thunder. May not be able to pull the crazy, crazy deep vacuum with the blue hoses as usual. Because man, it's not looking very good out there. So today we're working on a VNA system. The thermostat said it was low pressure. So I assume it's low pressure, like refrigerant pressure pulled off the insulation. And we've got oil all over down here. Let's see if we've got a leak. A little bit windy. So hopefully we can pick it up. And if it is not a leak, then it's probably somebody. Yep. Yep. Yeah, it's a little guber-fied. A little bit guber-fied. Yeah, it's always on that bottom side where people can't get the heat to it. Is there any up here on all this crap? Because man, oh man, they've got it all caked in there. And then on top of that, they have sulfur water, which has a tendency to cause leaks on the evaporator. So let's go down there and take a look. All right, so looking down here, some of these welds look pretty fishy. And we've got oil down here. I don't know if this, comparing to that to this, it looks like this may have been a repair job. Because I'm not picking up anything, even though I see shiny oil. And I've scanned all of this. And I'm not picking up anything on any of it. I think what I'm going to do, since I got a pump system down anyway, I think I'm going to warm this up, re-braze that stuff. Because that'll be the next trip back out for that. The coil, luckily, is aluminum. You can see this black stuff. That is the sulfur water that attacks the copper. And we'll eat into, believe it or not, braze joints more than silver, because silver's more pure. Completely scanned everything over here. And I am not picking up anything on that. Usually though, it'll leak on this TXV because it's not aluminum. You know, leak on that equalizer tube over there. I'm not getting anything, but I mean, I have a lot of pressure on this thing either. Went ahead and hooked on the high side here. We're at 14.9. And that's why we're probably having a hard time finding the other leaks. We've got quite a mess there on that. What I'm going to do is just use some break cleaner on that to get that crap off. I don't like all that laying around. We're going to get all that nasty. Fridgen oil off of there, which also helps not to flame up on us when we're trying to re-braze this. We're going to get this thing cleaned up and we're not even going to salvage this refrigerant. We're going to pull the rest of it out. Filter dryer never got pulled into a negative. I'm going to just go ahead and reuse that. We're not really theoretically opening it up. We're just re-pairing the solder joints that were between being ate up from the sulfur water and didn't get quite hot enough to suck them into the pockets like they should. Looks like seven eighths. That looks like three quarters. That might have something to do with it. Used our monstrous long extension here. So this allowed me to get in here completely to all these different areas and get that cleaned up. We went ahead and got the remainder recovered. We got straighter core pulled. We're going to bleed nitrogen through there and we're going to just re-braze each one of these. So we've got our wet rag here by refrigeration technologies. I've tried the other stuff too and it's good stuff. But what I like about this in particular, I'm able to just put it where I wanted at and it holds there. It don't have to get it super wet. It just fits all the way around there so easily. It's so pliable. I mean, it's almost like sand and it comes right off my hands for the most part. Pretty cool. We got that all cleaned up. We're going to go ahead and get that brazed in. We got our nitrogen flowing through here. We're going to start over here the furthest away. The way we got the heat going to the valve last as much as possible. It's going to naturally transfer over to it, but I always like to work my way into the pipe here first. Then we'll start getting over to where it connects and we'll add a little bit of breeze to it and then we'll eventually start to suck it into the pocket. Get it liquidy. There we go and pull it in. Pull it into the spot. Pull it in. Get all in there. See how that little doober got on the bottom? We'll wipe that off here in a second with a rod. Add a little extra. I like to get it moving and bring it in. Get it liquidy and bring it into the spot. This is probably where it was leaking out was on the back side. It's usually that's where everybody has a hard time getting their heat to it. And depending on what kind of torch you're using, you can always direct your flame where it needs to be at. So I don't like turbo torches. They're pretty well toasted, that protected stuff, unfortunately. I just don't trust these, so that's why I'm going to go ahead and redo it, too. Take a couple seconds to clean it up, especially on brand new copper. We've got everything cleaned up. Most of all, that was salvageable. A little bit that gets burnt that you have to throw away. But you can see that we actually got it pulled in to the joint. Everything's smooth through here. And same thing here on this side here. We've got everything wrapped around. Everything feels good. Same thing with that piece right there. We're just actually going to use a wet rag on this one. I'm going to put it back here. That way you're protecting your bulb. I don't know how many of these have screwed up super heat that run like one and two degrees because I think the guys aren't removing these bulbs and then they roast them because all that heat conducts and travels right to that bulb, causes that bulb to press down on the stem in there and just screws everything up. So we're going to go ahead and hit this one up first. Go ahead and clean it up with the brush wheel, which honestly, I didn't have any leaks on it, but while I've got the torch in here, I'm going to go ahead and do it. That way we've got it cleaned up. Once again, that sure looks like three quarters. That right there looks like seven eighths. Clean this one up so you can kind of inspect that one now. You can see that it's pulled in there. I like to have gotten it in further, but with the way they didn't clean it probably as well as they should have. It does not look like it pulled as far back. I would like to see it come back at least half. Technically it should go all the way to the very back. That one there looks pretty good all the way around. Now this one here, as you can see, that's what that looks like. That's what that looks like. You can see that they're had angles. They're not completely in the pocket. So I'm hoping to heat that up and then shove them in closer together and then re-solder it with new braze. We went ahead and re-brazed it. As you can see there, we've got it pulled into the socket. You got to remember, when you're going over somebody else's work, it's really hard to make it look good if that copper wasn't cleaned properly to begin with. That's why sometimes you're better off just to go ahead and remove it all. Now, if you remember, they had quite a goober right here on it. I went ahead and knocked that off as best as possible. Worked a way down to here, pulled all that into the socket, pulled this into the socket. Gotta be careful not to melt your rubber there. And, you know, just knocked off what you can knock off. Most important part is it's pulling into the socket. The ring thing, it's debatable. People want to say that that does most of the strength, but the sockets were most of its at. There's where some more of it got knocked off. That looks kind of crappy, but, you know, short of ripping it completely out, was able to straighten that up into the socket far. As I've considered this part here, really wasn't a lot to work with because the angle everything is at. I could only go so far forward, but we're going to go and do a pressure test on it. I about guarantee you it will probably need to replace that TXV. Pressurizing through the high side, it's coming back through, so we know that we did not solder anything shut. We can go ahead and now open up the suction side. Go ahead and get a pressure test on this. Low side, 250. Technically, that's as high as you're supposed to go. This is big blue also, which I use the ZEP bottle, so we buy it in bulk. Looks like it's about ready to start raining, unfortunately. I remember this is where my leak was at originally, because all the oil was out here. This is the worst leak. Now there is also oil inside too. I'm going to get all the valve body, my hoses, all that. Unfortunately, I can hear thunder. May not be able to pull the crazy, crazy deep vacuum with the blue hoses as usual because man, it's not looking very good out there. Look, there's quackers. There's a little camera shy right now. There they are. Anyhow, yep. We're out here in Mila, nowhere. All right, I do not see anything leaking so far. I think that just drizzled. Yeah, just drizzled. Usually you'll see your leak right there on that copper to copper. I usually see it on the other side of the TXV here. That white thing around the side, that's not bubbles. It looks like it, but it's not. See, it doesn't wipe away. It'll leak later, but that's what happens when you have sulfur water. You just want the price that you're going to pay. It's a pretty elaborate system. It's all infinity, it's got a zone system. So it's got the fancier filter, which is out right now because they're expensive. Oh yeah, let's stick all that crap. Yeah, that's great. By the time they're done, it's not built for drywall dust and everything else hitting rim through it. Not good for it. Oh, that's coming in a lot faster than what I thought. So we haven't lost anything on pressure. We're gonna go ahead and get this thing down and get it pulled down as fast as possible. With the old hosy-dosies, I don't think we're gonna go for microns. I think we're gonna go for deep vacuum because we're gonna have a lot of refrigerant in the compressor. We never ran into a negative. So it's not like we've got any moisture in the system. All we've got is refrigerant. Okay, we could use a JV. We could use the kill piece. We're going to use the little Navac 4CFM pump because I ain't got time to jack around with fricking cords and everything else. I need to get this done as quick as possible. Nine amp hour. Should be charged up ready to go. And we'll pull on the half inch circuit there on the three quarter inch side of the line set and see if we can get this done before the rain hits. Yeah, we're probably about 60 miles from our shop area. It's on it. It's picking up fast. Not good. We got the old blue hose on there. See if we can get this thing going as quickly as possible. The thing bad is I don't recommend living this pump out in the rain because it will probably destroy because it does have electronic circuitry in it. Open gas ballast. Turn it on. It starts up super, super slow. All right, so we've got our liquid line there in and she's cruising. That is not looking very good. Not very good. Don't look very dark on the monitor, but it definitely is. Got the new blue vac here with the Bluetooth. My other one still works perfectly good. But as you can see, we're zooming, zooming down at 2000 already in less than about two minutes or so. Great combination there. True blue hose, blue vac pro, and the Navac pump there, the four CFM. It's a little more money than the two, but I like it because it's a little faster. All this can be had at TrueTech Tools, promo code survival for 8% off your total order. Check them out. Usually I'm not a big fan of doing it like this, but as long as you have a TXV, it's not bad. You got a capillary tube and things like that, it can slow it down tremendously. I've had these those since May of 19. These things have been holding up really good. Haven't had to replace really anything. No seals, nothing. It's been really, really good. This thing holds, looks like seven and a half pounds. That's 410A. Should hopefully be down here shortly and we'll get this thing going. We're all zeroed out. Only thing I don't like about doing this one hose method here, unless you put one on your vacuum gauge, because you can't remove the vacuum gauge while it's under a vacuum, is you've gotta bleed it out to the hose, to the ball valve, and then you're gonna have to put some liquid in there, which it's not running, so it's gonna boil off, but you gotta bring the pressure up above, atmospheric pressure, so that you can remove your gauge without sucking something in. Not a big fan of putting more valve core tools in there, they just think, I don't care how great they are, they all leak a little bit. There's about 11 ounces, 12 ounces, 15 ounces. That's good enough to get us out of a vacuum, and now we should be able to remove it. See that? That's how you do it. I know people have asked about that, and it's not gonna hurt that gauge. That is one of the absolute best gauges. I don't care. There is nothing out there better, in my opinion. I don't care who makes it. The BlueVac is the only Micron gauge I've ever had that has lasted more than a year or two. I mean, I have a CPS. I've seen the Testos. I don't like hooking hoses up, because that's just one more leak point. Don't like using manifolds. If we do that, let's bleed. I want it to bleed up to the hose. See, a lot of people leave crap in their hoses, and that just is asking for more non-condensibles, and moisture, and things like that in the system. So now we're gonna charge a remainder of it through the liquid line. That way it can boil off as it goes through the TXV inside the evaporator. That liquid that I dumped in there 12 ounces on a system this big is not gonna hurt nothing. Now, this is boiling off. This does have Bluetooth on it. A couple of little blows there to get the refrigerant out of it, and she's good to go. And if there's any issues with oil, it'll tell ya. It's one of the best Micron gauges out there. That's far none. I still have my other one. It's sitting in the truck, but I wanted the Bluetooth so that I could document stuff, which is the big reason why I got this thing. So we have about four pounds. Now this VNA system here, you go into the thermostat, you tell it how long the line set is, and it'll tell you whether to add or subtract or whatever, and you tell it what size line set you've got, length of line set, all that stuff. They're completely gutting and remodeling this house. So this shingles on the outside, all that crap's gonna get ripped off. It completely, this is an old farmhouse. They literally check the house up, replace the whole basement, and they get ready to rip off all the siding, the roof, all that, completely just build a whole new house from the inside out, which might have ran out of go-go juice. Let's go ahead and go in there and tell it to go into charging mode. Because they're tearing the whole house apart, everything's kind of just out here. So let's go in to see if it's set up. Yeah, we gotta go into the fridge on charging. Charging cooling, line set 15 foot. They already got everything done there. Weighing some pounds of eight ounces. Target sub-coolings 12.13. Start. It's so much easier than a train or any of the other ones that just brain dead. All right, she's starting to kick on. Up she comes. Start charging the rest of this in there slowly. Yeah, that's vapor. Gotta get the last bits of it in there and go grab another can. They're really gonna get four pounds in there. Shoot. Well, why it's doing that. Go grab that real quick. Kind of a cool barn there, 1880s. Got the Amish back here building a barn. Kind of an interesting thing. Yeah, my truck's a mess. Well, we got more refrigerant up there. Okay, put our little gauge back in there where it sleeps. This is where I keep everything so that it's all nice and tidy. Nothing gets lost. Of course, that's pretty good. They had four pounds for our ounces in there. So far, we're running about an 88 degree liquid, 58 suction. We got three additional pounds, so that puts us at five, six, seven. Seven pounds, five ounces, which is dog on close to what it said earlier. Go to sub-cooling, we're at four something. We're gonna give this a good, oh, 10 minutes at least and make sure that that sub-cooling comes up to around 12-ish. So we're in charge mode. Like I said, we're gonna go back in, make sure we've got enough time for this thing to stabilize and make sure what that total weigh-in charge amount was because I don't 100% remember, and it was seven pounds, I think 12 or 11 ounces, don't remember. All right, it's time to warm up. Outdoor temperature, indoor temperature. Outdoor temp, outdoor temp 54. I don't think that's quite some correct. 10-minute stage two. So it's dinking around. We can't really calculate anything just yet. Stabilization time, 24 minutes. I set his smoke detector, carbon oxide detectors off and it's just acting stupid nonstop since then, as you can hear. You can tell our sub-cooling started to come up. It's gotta wait for a little bit longer yet. Okay, we may have went just a touch over. So we've got everything up and going. It's been stabilizing now for 15 plus minutes since we checked earlier. You can hear it ramp up. So I need to just take a touch out, but other than that, everything seems to be working good. I gotta go inside and check temperature drop. We adjust the charge of touch right at 12.2. Sub-cooling, it's like 59 degrees there. Looks about 72. Looks like that 59 area was pretty close, so 58. So I got about 13 and a half, 14 degrees. Now granted, you gotta remember, this is an infinity system. So it's in test mode. It's running balls to the wall right now. It's running at high speed, maximum CFM, everything else. When we drop this into traditional normal mode, whether we put it on comfort or efficiency or what have you, it's gonna change that CFM to probably 325, 350-ish area. And it's going to make that nice and cold and dehumidify rather quickly. Everything down here is pretty much already good to go. Air filter, I'm not real thrilled with, but what do you do when you're under construction? Yeah, 1,400 CFM. I have to look and see what tonnage that was. He said he had a code too, some other weird code. I don't know if it was the inverter or what going on, but let's take a look, see what code he had. Warm up to smile, low pressure, humidity sensor fault, DC over voltage, yeah, one time. Stator heater fault, that's a little weird. Maybe it's because it was low on charge. Humidity sensor fault, that's great. All right, so the stator things, the compressor probably getting too hot because it didn't have refrigerant. All right, well, we're gonna put this back to normal. Come on, run it. All right guys, that's gonna wrap this one up. Hopefully enjoyed it. Just a simple leak repair, but it had to be done. And that's how I did it. So if you guys are interested in seeing more videos like this, make sure you check out my channel. You've got a full list of different videos, everything from commercial refrigeration to residential generators, you name it. Till next time, we will catch you guys on the next one. Later.