 The Creality Ender 5 has been one of my favorite printers since I started 3D printing. But they've been just sitting on my shelves for the last couple years because newer and better things have come along. It's time to change that. I'm going to turn one of my Creality Ender 5s into a Core XY beast. My name's Jim, and this is the Edge of Tech. So I recently got the Ender 5 Core XY kit from 3D Fused. This thing is a all aluminum machined beast of a kit. All you have to do is basically take off everything off the top of the printer and bolt the kit on. So in this video, that's what we're going to do. Just a quick heads up though. This will only be the mechanical part of this assembly. I'm going to walk step by step into how to take everything off or what to take off and then how to put it all back together with the brand new Ender 5 Core XY kit. Again, from 3D Fused. It is actually not that bad to do. Maybe like an hour of time if you're not filming. And I'm pretty sure just about any of us who have an Ender 5 could actually make it happen. This will be the first video in a couple video series. In the next video, I'll focus on the firmware to get this thing rocking rolling. But I figured that the assembly video is going to be long enough for now. So let's start there. So in the kit you see an extrusion, all of the mounts you need right here, the belts you need, three linear rails as you can see right here. I didn't unpackage them yet. Looks like some oil for our linear rails I'm guessing. And also all of the bolts and screws and everything else you'll need all right here. That looks like pulleys, everything you need. It all comes in this kit to make this happen. So the first step in this process is to get rid of everything that's on the top extrusions here, except your corner brackets here. You don't want to get rid of your corner brackets, but the end stops, the belts, the gantry here, all of that stuff's got to go. And it's not too bad. I have my T-handles, my trusty T-handle set here. I'm going to spin this around so you can see. We do need to take off this cable right here. Just pull it out carefully. That needs to go down. This one in the back here needs to drop down. These two need to come out. So those can drop down. I need to cut this zip tie. Clearly I forgot to cut the end of it anyway. I'm going to take out my Bowden tube, but I'm going to take it out from this side so it can go with the hot end there. Now what we have is a completely clean top area. All we have is the corner brackets in the four corners, and of course your Z sitting right here. If I turn it sideways, you can see it a little better. So your Z is still sitting here. Everything else is clean up here, and now we can start the assembly. So step number two is installing our motor mount lower brackets in the rear of the machine. So this is the rear of the machine. I got the two motor brackets here, along with the M5 by 12 millimeter bolts and M5 t-nuts right here. So I have both motor mounts the way they're going to be sitting on the back frame right here, and I have six M5 by 12 bolts and six M5 t-nuts. So what we need to do is identify that we need to put in a bolt in three, one, two, three of the plates here. We're going to skip this one because there's a frame bolt there, and it's not going to allow us to put one there. So we're going to do one, two, three. If you flip that over, you can screw your t-nut on. If you flip that over, you can put your t-nuts on, and then line them up the way they're going to be in the extrusion. So let me get this last one on here. So they go on much easier than this normally. I just keep dropping everything today. Pretty much I drop everything all the time. Okay, so they're going to sit straight here in one sideways, and then the next thing we're going to do is just, we're going to set them on the rail like that. So once they're on the rail, you want to make sure they're nice and flush. Make sure all your angles here are good, and I'm going to spin around and give you a good view of that. So when you're putting these rebrackets on, you want to make sure everything is flush in the back here and in the side. Just make sure they're sitting on there really nicely. Take your M3 Allen wrench or T-handle, whatever you're using, and just spin those t-nuts in so you feel them catch. Once they have caught, we just want to make sure we're not moving anything because they will move when you start tightening these in. So make sure everything is still flush. It's nice and tight against there, and in this case, mine shifted a little bit, and just tighten them down like that, and go ahead and jump to the other side and do the same thing. So this next step, we're going to work with the linear rails, and we need to get them out and get them cleaned up. So I have cut them here, here is two of them here, and I need to get them out and get them cleaned up. I don't like the oil all over myself, so I am going to grab a couple of gloves. I suggest you do the same thing as well, but it's totally up to you. I prefer gloves to not get the oils all over me, and I got a pretty good size cut on my index finger right now that is not required to have oil in it. So something you want to make sure is these little black caps stay in because you don't want this coming off, that will be a mess, but they do come really greased up right now, and we just need to get them all cleaned up before we get them mounted in the next step. So I'm going to put these here. Oops, there's a little black cap. We do, I do not want to mess around. I have accidentally dropped one of the carriages off these before. All the bearings went flying, and it was not a great day. So I'm going to clean all three of these, and how I'm going to do that is I'm just going to take some paper towel, just make sure there's not excess stuff all over them. For the next step, we're going to take some of the linear rails we just cleaned, and also some m3x8 bolts and m3 t-nuts. We are going to take one of these bolts and put it through like this, and on the back side you need to take a t-nut. But once you have it attached like that, you should see it's on there, and we need to do that for every hole in the linear rail. Now you can see I got three linear rails done. I just went ahead and did all three, putting the screws and the t-nuts in. Be very careful now, because this can slide off the end if you're not careful, so don't let that happen. We're going to start putting these linear rails, two of them on right now. Let me show you how that works. So I'm going to start with the left side of the machine as you're looking at it right here, and we just want to go through and make sure all of your t-nuts are faced the same way, so they go into the extrusion. So they're all faced the same way. And then we're going to push that on and wiggle it in so it's in there. And then you want to push it all the way up against your plate that we just put on in the previous step. And now you have some wiggle room, and that's not great. So before we do anything, Kody actually includes these 3D printed centering tools. So Kody over at 3D Fused created these to make this step easier, and sometimes they might not go on and center great. These actually fit really nice, and they keep them nice and center. But you can see there's a groove here. This goes over the actual rail. This sits on the extrusion and holds it in place, and you just want to take and put that right on the rail. Now if this does not fit on the rail, and I like to do this about two in, so you have two here and two here to start, because you want to, I like to start from the ends and kind of work my way in when I put rails on like this. But if these do not fit, you can reprint them at 102%, and they will slide on a little bit better, and you can actually have a little more room to play with. These fit really nice. They're tight, but they're good, and they're going to keep everything centered. So that holds your rail in place. The next thing we need to do is just grab our trusty T-handle or Allen wrench, whatever you want to use, and start zipping a couple of these in, and just make sure those T-nuts grab. I'm going to start by spinning them and make sure they grab first like that, and then I'm actually going to come back here and tighten them down. Now if you want to do this with a regular Allen wrench, that's fine. If you want to do it with an Allen driver, that's okay too, but I'm just going to make sure that, there we go, these four here are tight now, and this is the two and a half millimeter that I'm using here. So now I can push these back a little bit like this, and you can just start working your way in from each side. I like to go here, here, here, here, just to keep it straight in there. You'll move your, you'll move this back and forth to get around the screws. Just make sure all of them are tight and then do the other side the same way. Do the right side the same way, and then we'll go on to the next step. Now we can see I have both rails on here. If you slide these, they slide really nicely, really good. All of the screws are tightened down, and it's pushed against our plates here. Like I said, we use these cool centering tools to get them centered, and you always want to print two of these, one for the front and the back. If you want to go overboard, print one for the center too. For the next step, we're going to need two of the Y mounts. These are the lower Y mounts, and you can tell that they're lower because they have a bunch of threaded pieces. Also, countersunk holes. I know that's kind of hard to see. I don't know if I can zoom in. There we go. So you can see that there's threaded pieces here, and then these are countersunk. So that is going to be your lower mount, and they will go on just like this. If you mistake them for the upper mounts, they look identical, but they don't have any of the countersunk holes in them. Just know that the countersunk ones with the shiny threads go on the bottom Y when you're mounting these. And where they go is right like that, and right like that on the linear rail, right where on this sled here. And you're going to use M3 by 6. These right here, you're going to use the M3 by 6 bolts to screw those in. So let's do that now. So I'm working on this side first, and I did the first, second, and third. I'm about to do the fourth bolt right now. These are the M3 by 6s. Now I put them all in, but I did not tighten them. I didn't do that because I want to make sure it's in there good. And then I will tighten the corners, like that, like that. So I tighten these two corners, and then I'm going to tighten these two corners. And then I'm going to go on the other side, on the left side over there, and do that one too. Next we're going to install our Y-axis extrusion, which is the extrusion that came with it. And we need M5 by 12s. We need four of those, and four of the M5 T-nuts. How that's going to work is we are going to use these two holes on each side, the right and the left. We're going to take our screw, our M5 by 12, and push that up. Take our T-nut and slip that on. And just make sure that it's on there. There we go, just like that. We're going to do that same thing for the second hole on this side. And also we're going to do that on the left side of the machine as well. So get these two in, get the same ones on the other side done, and we'll put the extrusion on in a second. So this is where we need to put our Y extrusion on here. So what you need to do is line up your T-nuts so they're straight, and they can go into that extrusion. And this is very important. We want to push both of these sleds all the way to the back of the machine. So they're straight from each other across there. We want to make sure our Y extrusion is as straight as possible. So then once you have it on there, you're going to take and drop that on like this. And you want to make sure, if you can, that this is lined up this way. So it's the same amount of space here as it is over here. It might take you a minute to readjust, but just make sure that is. I'm actually going to measure with a millimeter ruler and just make sure I'm very close. And I'll give you that measurement in a second. From underneath, you're going to grab your Allen wrench or T-handle, whatever you're using. You're going to hold the extrusion, and you're just going to spin those T-nuts up into place. So make sure that they connect. Make sure they're seeding. You just want to get all four of the bolts and T-nuts secured inside. Make sure they're not all the way tight yet because you might have to shift this back and forth. So I got these snugged on, but not tight enough where I could move it back and forth. And I grabbed a millimeter ruler like this. And when I hold it against here, I found myself that 26 millimeters on each side was centered. It should be the same for everybody, I think. But on mine, I got 26 millimeters on each side. And it's kind of hard to show that. But yeah, just 26 millimeters on each side. So this space is the same on both sides. Once you get it there, tighten the four T-nuts up and make sure this is nice and tight. So we are at a crucial part of the install where you might have to readjust this a couple of times to make sure that these are exactly straight across. And you'll know, just like this one, if it's not because it will make a bad sound. It'll be really hard to move. It's just not real smooth. You can't flick it or anything like that. That tells me that this is skewed a little bit. What I need to do is loosen the four bolts underneath and just make sure that these sleds are literally straight across from each other. Then it should slide nice and tight. So I'm going to go ahead and loosen all four, readjust a little bit. Now I'm not going to completely loosen them down, just a little bit, just to adjust. So I want to get this fixed so it slides nice and easy back and forth. You have to spend time doing this. Otherwise, the whole machine is not going to function great. So I'm troubleshooting this. And what I did was I loosened both sides. So it will move. It'll really move like that. But it's not completely loose. You don't want it to break free from the rail here. But then what I did is slid it back and forth a few times. And I tried to keep it as straight as I can, just so it kind of loosens itself on the rail. What I think happened is I had them pulling too far in when I tightened it and it was pulling the rails hard, like inwards. So I gave it a couple of slides. Now be very careful that you don't go off the end of the rail with your sled. If that goes off the end of the rail, you have bearings everywhere. It's not a fun mess to clean up. So give it a couple slides like that. I'm going to tighten it back up now and we'll see how it is. Well, that took me a little bit of time, like 20 minutes of trying and trying again to get them to go good. But now they slide really nice. And I'm going to go with that. So on to the next step. For the next steps, what you need is a couple of NEMA 17 motors. And they do sell them on their website at 3DFuse. Otherwise, you can grab a couple wherever you need to. I like to get the ones that come with a kit, but I did not do that this time. So I actually had these two brand new laying in a box. So I'm going to use these two NEMA 17 motors. Along with the 3D printed spacer, we're going to need that and the two Polis. And that's what we're going to do next. We're actually going to put these Polis onto the stepper motors using this tool. So the best way to show you this is we're going to do the right side first. And you notice there's like this little island on my stepper motor. Yours might not have that. But we're going to take the right side, there's a right and a left, and we're going to do right side first, if you see right and left, right there. The right side is thinner. So we're going to take that, and we're going to put it on the stepper motor right on top of that island. If yours doesn't have the island, put it right on the face of the stepper. This is the flat spot of the stepper motor. It's facing me. You can kind of see that. We're going to take part of the grub screw, put it flat down on that flat spot, this first grub screw. That way it is going to be tightened into where it's flat. Then we're going to push that down on the spacer. So it looks something like that. You want to make sure that it is properly spaced. So keep the spacer in there, keep some pressure on there. And then grab your island wrench or whatever you're going to use. And you just want to tighten that in so it's nice and tight against the flat spot of that shaft. Once you're tight, don't overdo it, don't strip it, but make it tight. Once you've got that one done, spin it over and tighten this one in. And your spacer should sit right there with little to no movement. So you know you're in there good. If it's too tight, you know you're too close to the bottom here. And if it's way too loose, you know that you need to press it down a little more against there. Now that we got the right side done, we're going to do the same thing on the left side. But we're going to use the side of the model that says left, which is thicker. So we're going to hold that there. We're going to take the front face of the shaft and put it towards us. We're going to push this down against it like I did before. And I'm not going to do it on camera, but I'm just going to tighten that in just like that against the left side. So in doing both of these, I found that it's easier if you hold it like this. Sandwich that spacer in there and then tighten it in. That way you know it's nice and tight. But I kind of found that that's the fastest, easiest way to do this. And I can actually do it on camera when I do it like this. So that's the best way to do it. Make sure you're nice and tight and move on to the next step. So for the next step, what we need is M3x10 bolts here. We need our mounts and our motors that we just did. And you want to make sure you know which one's left and which one's right. So the thinner one, remember, is right side. So this one's going to be our right side one. And I'm going to take the cable and I'm going to face it down like this. So it's faced me because when this is done, it'll be flipped upside down. And I'm not sure exactly where, which way we want this cable facing. But I think I want it facing out. And then I'm going to take this and mount it this way. So when this is upside down, it's going to flip up like this on that back mount on the right side. And our cable will be out this way. And everything will match up that way. So if you take note on the right side, I'm going to do facing me. And that way on the left side, I'm going to do just the mirror opposite, just like that. So facing me, the angles should be in. I believe this is the way we should be doing this. Take your M3 by 10 screws and do 1, 2, 3, 4 on each side into this mount. We'll go straight through into the motor in the four screws. So there'll be eight total and we'll be right back. So we got them both mounted. All eight screws are in. I know this is right and this is left because this pulley is shorter than that one. And we're going to move on to the next steps. Something I want to make sure you don't do is over tighten these. Just get them too tight. Maybe a little bit past tight. You don't want to over tighten. You don't want to strip these out. So I just want to point that out. So on to the next step, step number eight. Future gym here. I mounted these on backwards and I need to fix them. So I thought I had it figured out, but I was wrong. So what these need to do is this plate needs to match this plate. The two holes here and the three holes here need to match when that motor is sitting upside down like this. So really what we need is our motor mounted like this on the right side. So here's the cable here. Here's the two holes and the three holes. So if you can see that upside down, it looks like facing you is the angle. This is the cable plug, two holes and three holes. That way, when you flip it upside down like this to mount it, it actually matches your bottom plate. So that was my mistake. I'm going to fix this one and check the other one and then move on to the next step. For the next step, we're going to need three of the red spacers. They're calling them red. They're not red. They're not. They're aluminum. And then three of the M5 by 45 bolts. And we're actually going to mount this on the back right side. So let's do that. So now we need to mount the motor on the mount on the right side. So what I'm going to do is take the three what they call red tubes and put them right there. So one in the center here, two on the ends. And then I'm going to attempt to set down my motor right on top of them. And you can do this however you want. This is just the way I'm trying on film here. And then I'm going to put the screws down through those tubes in each of the corners and in the center. It is threaded on the bottom. So it should sit in there nicely. And then grab your Allen wrench or whatever you're using. T-handle in my case, like I've said. So then when you're tightening these in, do a little bit of each one at once to make sure you're not cross-threading. And then once they're all three started, then you can just go to town and tighten them down. For the next part of this assembly, we're going to need three of the smooth police right here. We're going to need the purple spacer, which I believe is the smaller one, and a blue spacer, which is the taller one, along with two M5x45 bolts. So this is a shot from the rear now. This is our motor. We just put this on. I'm going to start on the right side here. And we're going to feed our bolt down like this. We're going to put it into a smooth pulley like that, and then into what they're calling the blue, I believe, pulley. And I'm just going to feed it all the way down, and that's going to get screwed in on that one. On the outside one here, we need our M5x45. We need two pulleys in a row. So we're going to push this in one pulley, two pulleys. I know it's kind of tricky to see and also kind of tricky to film, but so we got two pulleys in there. I'm going to squeeze another, what they're calling the purple spacer in there, and it'll look something like that. So on the outside, small spacer, two smooth pulleys. Then we have a long spacer here, a big one, and then on this side, we're going to have the larger of the two spacers and a pulley in the top. Grab your allen, and then just tighten those in. They should thread right down to the bottom, and you can tighten them in right away, just like that. And then we can go on to the left side. So on the left side, if you're facing the machine, this is your left side. So on the back end here, we're going to do the same thing. I'm going to take three, what they're calling red spacers, the longest ones, and put them in that orientation right there, kind of a triangle. I'm going to take my motor, making sure the three here, three here match up and the two in the back. And then I'm going to grab three of my M5x45 and just slide them in. So they go into those spacers. And just like we did on the other side, I'm going to tighten those in. So from the back angle, we're going to do the same thing like we did the other side, except for these pulleys going a little different. So these are going to take the three smooth pulleys, then they're going to take two of the blue ones, one, two, and then one new one, which is the shortest one yet, called yellow. On the outside of the machine here, we're going to put our bolt in. We're going to slide it into two of the pulleys, and then you'll see it like that. And then we need one of the blue spacers underneath. So it should look like that. And you can start those by hand to make them stay if you want to, just like that. On this side, it gets a little more tricky. We're going to take our M5x45. We're going to come down and we're going to go into the smallest one, which is yellow. Then we need our pulley underneath that, and then a blue underneath that. So when you're done with this one, if I can get it started, so it stops wobbling, when you're done with this one, it'll look something like that. So these two here should line up when you're done. We have blue, pulley, pulley, and we have blue, pulley, yellow. Just like that. So in the next step, we're going to work on the top plates for our Y-axis. And we're going to do this to both of these plates first before we go any further. Grab your M5x12 bolts and the M5 t-nuts and put those in. It's going to be just like this. This is what you want to see. Make sure it's in this orientation. The t-nuts are on the bottom because this is going to be the left side and this is going to be the right side. So on the left side here, we're going to use the part that goes up like this and it's going to sit on here like this. Also, we're going to use the green spacers. And don't worry, I'm saying all these colors, they're not colored, but all of these are labeled right here. So you know which one's which when you get the packages. They look like this. We're also going to use the M5x30 bolts like this one here. So the first thing I want to do is drop our t-nuts into the extrusion and make sure they're sitting in there nicely like that. And I'm also going to put one of the green spacers right there. And I'm going to put a bolt in this one right away because I think this one's going to move. Yeah, it's moving all over. So I'm going to put my bolt in here to hold that just like that. And I'm actually going to get that started like that. And then I'm going to go on the other side here on the corner right over here and put that green one in there and push it down through your spacer and get that one started as well. So what we have here is a bolt, a bolt and two green spacers and our t-nuts right here. I'm going to tighten all that down and we're going to come back and do the rest. So I have all of these tight and you can see that there's two more spots that we can put anything in there. And we're going to do the pulley thing like we did last time, but we're going to use the M5x30 here. We're going to take a smooth pulley like we used before and we're going to push this through and not drop it. We're going to push it through onto the pulley. And then we're going to take one of our yellow spacers, which is one of the little ones and we're going to put it right underneath. And I know this is kind of hard to see with my fingers here, but it's going to look like that. So tighten it in a little bit finger tight. So we have yellow smooth pulley bolt going through on this back one here. We're actually going to do something different. It's going to be one of the teeth polis here. I believe this is a 20T pulley is what it said. We're going to set that on the bottom. We're going to take one of our yellow spacers and put that in there, hopefully like that. And we're going to drive one of those bolts right down in and kind of wiggle it around until it all matches up like that. So it should look like one of your teeth polis here, a yellow spacer and the bolt. And then we're going to tighten both of these up. This is the right side now. Well, you need to start with putting our peanuts in the extrusion. And then we are going to take our green spacers and do one there and one over here. So it'll look like that. And this is in the first one on this side and the only one on that side. And we're going to take a couple of our M5 by 30 bolts. We're going to go down in. I like to get it started so it stops wobbling so much. Get this side in. Get these two tightened up and your T nuts and we'll come back for the polis. In the center, we're going to do the pulley on the bottom. We're going to do the yellow on top of that carefully. And you can stack them if you prefer to slide them in like that. And then your M5 by, I believe, 30 down through. So it looks something like that. Now I'm looking at the front right here of the right side. And we're going to do a spacer and a tooth pulley just like you see there. Put your bolt down through those and tighten that in. Now we're going to tighten both of those and move on to the next step. Now we're going to work on the linear rail that goes along right here. We're going to make sure all of our T nuts are aligned. We're going to set it on there just like that. And we're going to use our centering tools to go on here like that. And like that. We'll hold those there. And I need to get these tightened in. But I also need to measure the distance between here and here to make sure that that is the same. Because you don't want this off to one side or this way to one side. You want to make sure it's pretty dead center. I think I'm close, but I am going to measure my distance here. Probably between this plate here and this plate here. And just make sure we're centered. And then I'm going to tighten all those in like we did the other two rails. So what I'm doing is I'm taking a metal millimeter ruler. And I'm measuring between the linear rail here and the end of this extrusion. And on mine, if I push it in here on both sides from here to here, I got 32 millimeters. So I can come right in from the side like that. And I can measure to the end on both sides. And I centered it at 32 millimeters from the end of the linear rail to each end of the extrusion. And now I'm going to tighten all these in. I did spin a couple of these in so it's holding. It is not secured at this time, but it's just holding enough so I can still slide it around. But now it's time to tighten those up. Don't forget to put your centering tools back on. You should have one on each side before you fully tighten this in. You want to make sure that linear rail is centered. So put these back on, make sure they're centered, then tighten up. Next we're going to mount our X carriage up here. So we need the plate and it needs to go in this orientation. So the four bolts will be like that right there. You kind of have this slit on this side and the opening on that side. We're going to use four of the M3x8 screws. And then we're going to screw two of these little tiny standoffs. Like that into the front of the plate when we're done. So we're going to mount that up like this. And put the two standoffs in there and we'll be right back. When we're done with the X carriage, you should see the four bolts and the two standoffs just like that. And we're good to go. Now we need to build the left belt tensioner. And in the left belt tensioner, we need this piece here, the tensioner piece. We need two of the orange spacers, they called orange. We need a smooth pulley here. We also need two T nuts that are M4. And we need two M4x20 bolts. And then we need this one right here. This is the bottom part of the mount. And on the left side, we're actually going to use the smaller of the two. You can see there's a difference. So we're going to put the larger of the two aside. And on the left side, we're going to use the smaller of the two. So the first thing we need to do is take our bottom piece and put the two orange spacers in. And these are going to need to be pressed in. So what I'm going to do is grab something that can lay flat or that's hard. And I'm going to press these down in so they're flush. And they should be in there nice and flush when we're done. So I'm going to do that. I'll be right back. Now that I got that pressed in, we can proceed. How I got it pressed in was I took this chunk of wood here. And I put it on the ground and I just tapped in each one individually until they got all the way in. That's how I pressed them in. I'm not sure if they're supposed to be that tight or not, but that's what I had to do on mine. So now we need to put everything together. We're going to take the piece we just pressed. We're going to take this tensioner part on top of there. So it's going to sit on there like this. And then we're going to put our bolts down through it. So it looks like I got a little rough with my mounting piece and I cracked it. So I'm going to reach out to Cody and get a different one. But it should look like that. And then we'll put the t-nuts on the bottom. And that's the tricky part. There we go. And so once you get the t-nuts on the bottom, there's only one more thing we need to do before we actually put this on the machine. And we'll go over that in one second. So there you go. Everything's mounted on here. The t-nuts are on there. Everything's good. But we need to get this pulley in. So to get the pulley in, we need to remove this screw here. So grab a larger, oh, a much larger. Grab a larger allen wrench. Slide that up like that. Poli should go in the center like that. It's kind of hard to show and hold and film. But it should sit in there. And then just put your screw down through the pulley like we've done a bunch of times. And screw that back in like that. So that's how it should look. And now it's time to mount it. Looking at the machine, this is the left side straight on. So I'm looking at it. This is my left. We're going to put the tensioner down in like that. And we're just going to tighten up the t-nuts. There we go. So the tensioner's in like this. We're going to hold it there. We're going to grab our allen wrench and just tighten up these t-nuts to make sure it locks in nice and tight. And you want to make sure that it's pushed up against your linear rail all the way. You don't want it to be real loose or anything like that. But get your t-nuts tightened down and we're going to go do the other side. For the left side, we're going to use the larger of the two printed parts. The purple spacers, M4 by 30 and the M4 t-nuts. One of the smooth polis and the tensioner. And we're going to put this together exactly how we did the left side. And then we're going to mount it on the right side. I'm not going to show you that because it's identical to what we did before. It's just using these parts instead. So we're going to do that and we'll be right back. Now you can see we have both the left and the right polis on. They're good to go. They're nice and sturdy. From here, we start installing our belts. So the instructions are pretty good showing you how to route these belts. But I wanted to show you a couple things real quick here. Number one, when you put your belt on, the teeth should be facing you. You'll put it into the back of the lower little slit here in our hot end carriage. Like that. Then you'll take a zip tie. You'll make sure a bunch of teeth are locked together here. And zip tie that bad boy in. So that ain't going anywhere now. And then we can route it. So it comes this way. So your belt will come straight this way. And it'll actually go behind this wheel right here. And it's going to be on the lower section. So when you route it this way, it'll be on the lower section. I am just going to try to spin this thing around and show us. Hopefully this works out. So we get to here. And you can see I came through the center here. I came around. And it catches our rear right pulley here. And it kind of folds around the back on this side. You can see it's kind of hard to see, but it follows us all the way here. Sorry if it's out of focus. It goes in here. It goes into the center where our motor pulley is. And it's going to go around that motor pulley and then back out and around this one. So there's like a loop in here. And the diagram and the instructions is very good. It shows this. It loops around the motor with the pulley. It comes back out right here. And then travels along the whole side here of the left side of the machine. Goes around our belt tensioner right there. And then once it spins around the belt tensioner, it'll come around. It's hard to show you. I'm sorry. So once it's right here on the belt tensioner, it'll come right here. It'll go behind the tooth pulley right over here. See if I can show that better. It'll go, yeah, there you go. So it'll come down here around the tensioner behind this tooth pulley. And then to the right, it attaches to the bottom left side of our carriage right there. Sorry if any of that was out of focus. I'm trying to walk you around the machine. And it's kind of tough to do in this fashion. Something to note, make sure your tensioner is all the way loose when you do this, because you're going to want to be able to put tension on it. And so you want to make sure it's all the way loose. So not to the right. You want to screw it out like this as far as it goes when you do this. I'm working on the top belt. And I wanted to show you a really quick trick that I learned to route these belts. So this belt needs to come around this pulley. And when I push it through here, it just wants to go straight through to this side. It doesn't want to curl around that pulley. But if you stick a zip tie in there, then push your belt through. It'll actually pull it right around that pulley just like that. And then you can continue pulling it through the path. So that's a really quick tip to use a zip tie, push it in, then push your belt behind it, and it'll come right through. So I have the top one mounted. And I wanted to show you how I secure it to the top of the carriage here. Like I talked about. So I pushed it through the back hole. And I'm just going to spin it around about an inch maybe. And there's plenty of belt here. There's way plenty of belt here to do this. So spin it around about an inch and then pinch it like that. When you do that, take one of your zip ties and get it started in a loop. If I could grab it, that'd be amazing. There we go. Excuse my finger there. There we go. So I got it started in a loop on this belt only by the way. I'm going to pull it through. And this side isn't that big a deal because we're going to tighten it on the other side. So I'm just going to pull it through here. And I'm going to start squeezing my zip tie. And I'm going to bring it over towards the carriage like that. Make sure my teeth are meshed up so they're locking. You want to make sure those teeth are locking together like that. You don't want it wide open or anything like that. And then pull your zip tie nice and tight. That will keep the teeth locked. That will keep those teeth locked together and that's not coming out. So then once you got it nice and tight, just grab your cutter, a side cutter, flush cutter, whatever you want to call it, cut that off. And if you want to trim your belts, you can trim your belts as well. I'm going to do that at, I'll probably do that later, but not right now. So then all we have to do is pull that nice and tight like that. We're going to make sure it's routed properly and then I'm going to mount the other side here. So on the other side, I pulled it through and I'm actually going to pull it taut this time. And I'm going to hold it there. And I'm just going to grab my, and I'm just going to grab that zip tie and do the exact same thing. Make sure it's only around that belt. Get the loop started. I guess I can't pull it that tight when I have to get this loop started. But that's okay. That's the fun of learning. There we go. Then we're going to pull it tight. I'm going to slide it through the loop like we did on the other side. But the trick is on this side, you want to make sure it's tight. Because you don't want this thing way too loose because otherwise your belts are going to be way too loose and you're going to have to loosen this up and start over. So make sure this side's tight. We are going to use tensioners, but there you go. I zipped it in. The teeth are locking. Everything's good. I'm just going to cut that off and our belts are now ran. So how the top belt is ran. It starts in the top of the slot here. Comes around our toothed gear here. Comes over to our tensioner on the right side. Then it goes straight all the way back here. And it's actually just going to wrap around. And it's actually going to come around here. It's going to wrap around back through here around the gear that's on your motor. And then come back. So it's going to loop back here and then come back around this side. Then go all the way around the back. And you can see it just wraps around here. Comes around this side. Just makes a turn right here and then connects to the carriage. So the diagrams that are on the instructions are very good for this. But you can use this as kind of a reference. Just make sure your bottom is following all the pulleys on the bottom. And your top is following all the pulleys on the top. So I just wanted to jump in while we're doing the belts to show you that you get absolutely plenty of belt to make this happen. There's enough on here to probably make, if I'm going to guess, I bet you can make at least two full sets of belts. But if you do accidentally cut it too short or cut it wrong, you actually get plenty. And I mean plenty of extra belt in this 3D Fused Ender 5 Kid. So thanks, Cody. I appreciate you sending some extra. Basically what I have here is two standoffs from the kit. And this is the right side of the machine. And we're going to put the Y limit switch here. Take two standoffs and screw them into the pre-drilled holes in the plate. Again, this is the right side of the machine in the rear. Then we're going to take our limit switch. And it's going to basically be screwed down on those standoffs. Something like that. So you're going to take two M3x4 screws. Grab a hold of it and just screw it right into the top of those standoffs. And it should hold its place nicely. Put both of the screws in. And now our Y limit switch is installed. So this is the best way for me to show you this, where this is. Sorry for the shickiness. I'm trying to hold the camera as still as possible. But this is the right side of the machine. So if you're looking at the machine, this is also the right side. This is underneath the pulleys here. So you put two standoffs in right there and right there. And then you screw your one of your end stops right into it. And you also have to bend the end stop connection downwards. So it's facing down. Originally it faced backwards and it won't work because it's going to hit the machine. But it's straight down here and it should just bend nicely. You can get these on Amazon pretty cheap if you break one, but just be very careful. But it should be able to bend. And that's where it goes. If I back it up, you can see it's right there underneath the machine. And if I go underneath, you can kind of see how it's mounted there too. So that's your X end stop. And now we're on to the next step. Now we take the original Creality Ender 5 hotend and it's going to mount right to these standoffs. I just removed mine from the gantry and it is right here. This is the original I had. I might change this out to like a micro swiss or something like that. I might as well because I'm really beefing this machine up. But in this case, I just want to show you that it'll mount on to those standoffs. And you just want to make sure it's on there nice and tight. And I'm even going to grab a different allen wrench here. And just tighten those in a little bit. So then this is the original fan assembly. It can actually go and the screws are here for it like that. And it's all pre-mounted. It's all pre-drilled and ready to go. In my case, I had this TH3D Easy ABL. And I'm going to be using that again. So what I need to do is push that all back together. So now because I have the TH3D Easy ABL, normally you could just screw that up there if you're just using the standard hot end and you're good to go. In my case, I need to put this fancy mount on here. It is going to go in the same screw holes. It's made for the Ender 5. It's going to go in the same screw holes right into the plate. So I'll put this one in first and then I'm going to get this one started just to make sure I'm in the right spot. I am. So I can kind of push all that back. So this will all get screwed in there. It'll hold these two screws in and my Easy ABL will sit right in there. If you want to check that out, that's TH3D. It's for bed leveling and it's pretty dang awesome. I prefer them. So I'm just going to tighten these up real quick with this because my T-handle is acting up and I'll be right back. So I thought I would do kind of an overview of how I have all the cabling currently. Right now, this is going to be kind of how it was like this. We're going to let that go down. The end stop, I'm going to go for the end stop on the side here for your, excuse me, for the X end stop, I'm actually going to go underneath and then connect in maybe just actually I might just cable manage this underneath this extrusion. I just don't want it in the belts and I don't want it in our linear rails. If we keep spinning this around, we have, this is how I ran the Y. This is how I ran the Y end stop and I'm actually going to zip tie that down so it can't get in the way right there. Hopefully I'm showing this okay. So the two motors we have are just on the ends of the machine here and it doesn't really matter which one you plug in, which because you're going to designate that in firmware, I believe, but I did X here. I did Y over here and if you noticed, I got this motor backwards. So be careful as much as I was trying to be careful. I wanted this facing in and this one I have it on backwards so the cord, let's see if I can show that better. And this one I have on facing backwards so the cords out here. I might take it apart and spin it. If not, I'm going to just zip tie it right there. That way this cable is out of the way, but everything else is on here. So our heart ends in, all of our stuff's plugged back in and we just need firmware to get this thing flying. And just like that, the mechanical assembly of the 3D Fused Core X Y Kit is done for the Ender 5. As I just showed, my cable management is kind of sloppy right now, but that's just because I don't want to cable tie this to the boat and tube. So I'm going to come up with some better solution for that and I'm also going to come up with a better solution for the stepper motor down here or the stepper motor wire down here as well. But there are some things that I really loved about putting this thing together. Number one, I love projects and I love tinkering. So if that is something that you like to do, you're going to love this kit. It is all machined aluminum. It is super tough, very durable and I mean, this thing is probably stronger than the day it came from Crayati for sure. Another thing that I really liked was the 3D printed guides. The guides to put your linear rails on and also for the motor spacing were just awesome. That makes putting these things together so much easier. And Cody really thought about that while he was designing this kit. Another thing is this 3D printing oil that I will be using to oil my linear rails. Now, I think this is kind of a controversial thing with linear rails on how to oil them, how not to oil them, but this is his kit and he sent this oil and that's what I'm going to use on these linear rails. I appreciate that because this is a full bottle and it's going to last a very long time because it's not like you're going to put this whole bottle on a linear rail or two or three. So thank you for including that Cody because I know a lot of us don't just have this stuff laying around in our shops. So the astute watching might notice that this is a different printer than I started this video with. This is my Ender 5 Pro. It came from Crayati as a pro at the time. And I used this one because I wanted to. That's why. So that's why it's different. So if you're wondering why the color on the screen or something is different, that's why I changed. I decided to do it on the pro version instead. And now let's talk a little bit about why you might want to do this if you have an Ender 5 laying around or Ender 5 Pro or even an Ender 5 Plus. They have kits for that too. The big reason is the whole motion system. You're going to have a lighter gantry because there's no motor up there driving it anymore. The core XY system, as we've seen in many printers in the last year, just is it's so much faster and more reliable. And I believe a lot of people will tell you it's more consistent, especially if it's tuned right, than the standard system that actually came on the Ender 5. I love the idea if that was all aluminum. I like that it's durable and strong and it used almost, almost all of the parts from the original build. The only thing you're going to need is two motors. And they do need to be the Niva 17s. And you can use one motor from the kit, but the other motor that comes in the center of your Ender 5 has a shaft that goes through both sides and you can't use that. So right on the product page, it says to source a couple motors. You could use one that came from the kit and just get one. But jump on Amazon. I'll put a link in the description below. Grab yourself a couple of Nima 17s, even hit up LDO, whatever you want to buy them at. In my case, I think it makes sense to match them just so you don't have a mismatch. But I don't think it really matters as long as they're Nima 17s. But definitely check that out. You're going to need a couple motors to do this project. So besides being lighter and faster and more durable, the other thing is that it's definitely more tunable. I believe that this system is definitely more tunable than the stock system. You're going to get more out of it. I know it's going to cost you some money, but at the same time, you're not starting over with the whole printer. So you can do that. You could clipperize this. We haven't talked about firmware yet, but that's a good idea. I haven't done firmware yet because I want to do another video on that. So you could actually stick with Marlin Firmware if you wanted to. You could clipperize this, and that's probably what I'm going to do because I think that's going to be awesome. But there's many ways to do firmware, and I'll do another video actually showing you how to do that. But overall, this kit is so nice. You get so much value for the money that I definitely suggest this kit. It was such a fun build. One more thing I want to talk about is that I know that 3D Fused has been a little bit slow lately, but that's because they are a one-man shop, and he's trying to do the best he can with getting parts, especially the linear rails, with some other big printers that have released lately. A lot of companies are buying up a lot of linear rails, so he's been a little bit behind on production as far as some of the other kits and stuff go, but I have talked to Cody. There are about 200 of these kits that are ready or just about ready when this video drops, so you can rest assured that if you do order one of these kits for your Ender 5 or multiple Ender 5s, however you want to do it, the kits are going to be ready. They're going to ship fast, and he's doing everything he can to make sure that this kit actually ships out in a very timely manner. Again, he's one man. He's trying to do it all, and he's been a little behind on some of the other stuff, but I give him some slack because there's huge companies that are way behind on their manufacturing, too. So, Cody, keep up the great work. I know you're a good dude. I love your products. I've used other ones in the past in other videos, and this is just another great product from 3DFuse, so there's going to be roughly around 200 of these kits ready to go when this video drops. So, if you want one, grab one. It will ship in a timely fashion, and if not, drop a comment in the video below and let me know that it didn't, and I'll get on Cody myself. I'm joking. Cody, you're a good dude. Thank you so much for the kit. This thing's awesome. If you want to check out the kit, there's a link in the description below. Again, this was just the mechanical part. Firmware coming soon, so stay tuned to that for like a part two. We're going to rock that out. I might even change the hot end on this, so we might do a part three, or a part 2.5 or something. But stay tuned. This thing's awesome. Check it out. Thank you guys for sticking with me this long in the video. I really appreciate it on a build video, and as always, did you guys see this one?