 sewing new look 6 6 5 1 together. Hopefully if you're watching this video you've already seen episode zero of this of the sew along where I talk about what size you should cut, some alterations you might want to make, and some tips for cutting out your fabric. So at this point you should have all of your fabric cut out and ready to sew. In today's episode, episode one, we are going to be putting together the bodice and the sleeves. There's a lot to cover in each one of these so I'm going to keep these intros really short. Take it to my cutting table where I'll walk you through these first few steps. All right, step number one is to stay stitch the neck edges. So there is a right way to wrong way to do this. This is my back piece here. If you remember, we cut it on the fold. So here's my fold here. I'm also going to do my trick where I mark the right side of the fabric with a pin. So I always know that the one with the pinhead is the right side of the fabric because these appear to be the same. I just want to make sure that I am consistent in using the same fabric, the same side of the fabric throughout the entire environment. There can be like little inconsistencies that you can't see with the naked eye. Then you put them together and all of a sudden it looks like you use two different color fabrics. So I'm going to mark the right sides with pins as I go and then regarding stay stitching. So we're doing a regular stitch length, but we're only doing it one quarter of an inch from the raw edge. So just inside this raw edge and then it's best practice to start stitching one way down until you get to the center. Break your stitches and then come to the other shoulder seam and stitch along this way. So two separate stay stitches when something is cut on the fold. And this just serves because this is all on the bias and all of these fibers that are woven together. The way that you stitch it through your machine the first time can determine like you don't want to stretch this out by sewing it this way or you know this way. If you go this way this is making sense. If you sew it this way they kind of all stay where they're supposed to stay and they don't stretch out at all which is what we're trying to do. So that's why you stay stitch from the shoulders and you meet at the center. So that's for the back piece and then for the front piece it's a similar concept but because our front is cut down the center front obviously you have to do the stay stitching in two bits. It's just when it's on the fold like that some people will just do and that's not necessarily the best way. So again you're going to start at the shoulder seams and stitch toward the center front. So that is stay stitching. We're going to do that. After we've stay stitched we are going to attach the back to the front right sides together at the shoulder seam and at the side seams and then we want to go ahead and finish these seams as well. This is not a lined garment so go ahead and finish your shoulder seams and your side seams once you've got done stay stitching. Okay look at that we have the makings of a bodice. So exciting. Okay so we are going to gently put this away that neck line we want to protect fiercely. We do not want to touch that any more than we have to. Even though we stay stitched it it's nice to just just be very gentle with it to prevent any stretching of the neckline at all. So interestingly enough step five of this pattern well actually technically step three of this pattern is to finish your arm side. I actually really like that because the bodice right now is very small you know it doesn't have the skirt attached to it it's not very bulky and so it's actually easier to attach the sleeves now than after everything else is done. So this makes sense to me. If you are doing the sleeveless version and you've got your bias tape you're just going to follow the instructions for the bias tape here finish it off. I thought that you guys would rather see how to insert a set in sleeve on a woven so that is what I'm going to be instructing today. So I'm starting with step five here the very first step is to ease stitch the top of the sleeve and I'm only going to show you one and then you guys just rinse and repeat for the for the other one. So ease stitch basically that means we have notches two notches here and one notch on this side this one notch denotes the front of the garment two notches denotes the back of the garment just remember that as we move forward but ease stitching is simply two rows of gathering stitches gathering stitches are the longest length that you have on your sewing machine for me it's five. So it's two rows of stitching between the the notches between the two notch here and the one notch here two rows of stitching one at three eighths of an inch from the raw edge and one at five eighths of an inch from the raw edge so we're going to put that those ease stitches in then we're going to leave them alone we're going to use those to kind of pull up this sleeve a little bit so that it fits into the arm side that we have on our bodice but before we attach it to the bodice they also go ahead and have us hem it another really really great tip is to go ahead and hem your like just finish your sleeve off completely before you attach it to your bodice so i appreciate that as well so while i'm at the sewing machine i am going to go ahead and do the ease stitching and i'm going to go ahead and press up this hem as well if you've watched any of my sew alongs before then you know my little trick for him is so this hem is where's my sleeve piece this hem is one and a quarter inches of your hem so it's a quarter inch turned up and then another inch turned up beyond that so in order to get our quarter inch marking and make sure that it's really accurate i am going to mark the hem line of my sleeve at half an inch so you take the hem whatever depth it is double it and that's what you mark first so now when i go over to my iron and i go to press this up i know that if i match the raw edge to that chalked line i know i'm going to get a very precise quarter inch and then you want to take your ruler and you want to measure two inches up from the folded hem which is right here and then you should be getting two and a quarter inches yeah so this is going to be two and a quarter two and a quarter inches away from the raw edge so i can get my bigger ruler go two and one quarter pretty much all the way across and now i can fold up the hem both folds in one shebang here i'll show you again so you were going to go to your iron and you were going to fold the raw edge to meet your very first chalked line and then you fold up your raw edge again to meet your very second chalked edge and that way you have a beautiful pressed hem so i'm going to go ahead and press this but we're not going to stitch the hem yet you can't stitch to him until you do your little side seam so press this up sew in your e-stitches sew together your underarm seam and then once you do that these are already pressed all the folds are pressed in you'll see how your hem just naturally kind of turns up on itself so go ahead and finish the hem as well i'll show you everything over at my sewing machine so you're going to finish off your raw edge and then as you can see once you do that we're just going to pretend you already have the folds of your hem done so you don't have to do any of that in the round you don't have to worry about these little itty bitty circles and burning your fingers and everything you just already have that completely pressed and it just kind of goes into falls into place so turn it right side out and stitch your hem but be sure to finish your underarm seams raw edge first we need to turn our garment wrong side out and our sleeve remains right side out like so okay so we need to find the front of the sleeve which is the one with the single dart we've got the front of our garment facing up and we need to insert this sleeve right side up to where the single notch matches up with the single notch on the bodice so that is going to be on this side because if we place this sleeve inside the garment so that they are right sides together see our underarm seam and our side seam are now right sides together and the single notches are matching okay so once you've got that then it's just a matter of matching up your side seam seam allowances face toward the back then you want to come around and match up your single notch with a pin then you want to come around again and if we've got these beautiful um easing a stitches in here but we're not messing with them too much just yet we want to find the notch that's at the very tip top of our sleeve that goes with the shoulder seam shoulder seam gets pressed to the back as well then come around again and we're going to match up the double notches okay so now we've got kind of a lot of sleeve and bodice that are not um matching up right so we've got the sleeve that's a little bit bigger than the bodice that's the way we want it we want to take those easing stitches that we made they start way down here and you just start pulling up on the bobbin side of your threads until these two raw edges come together so start pulling up your sleeve it's not going to be like a gather it's going to be much much more subtle than that but eventually you will get to the place where your sleeve and your bodice arm side match up completely being gentle but you know also letting it know who's boss okay so we've got those two things lined up that looks really good but from because there's this uh the little baby dot that was in there so we know that this has the right amount of ease to it but this is still not exactly right this has too much gathering in the sleeve okay so we want those two things to match up well we can't pin that little dot just yet because all of the easing happens through it and so you don't want the pin to like mess up your easing so just put a couple more pins in when I first started sewing I used lots and lots of pins you can still do that if it makes you feel more comfortable I guess to some people I still use lots of pins but I guess every couple of inches or so okay I'm going to show you one more time on this other side of the sleeve and then you guys are gonna go tackle this on your own on the other sleeve but you grab the bobbin threads pull up your sleeve again it's pretty subtle keep pulling until your baby dots match where's the other baby dot are you that okay are you my baby dot yeah again it's not a gathering stitch or a gathered seam it's much much more subtle than that all right so flatten all this out and this is a pretty like generous sleeve sometimes you will have you know a lot more gathering if it's like a very very tailored and fitted sleeve but this one's pretty generous lots of ease so shouldn't be too too wrinkly but this is the beauty of what we're doing so you can see and I like to put this out in every single sew along that I do so if you've ever done a sew along with the sleeve before you've probably seen this but you can see how the bodice which is the outer circle is nice and straight but on the inside the sleeve raw edge is all wrinkly and bumpy that's exactly what you want that is going to create the room that we need for our shoulder to fit into our sleeve so now you're going to head to your sewing machine and you're going to just stitch all the way around here I'd like to do all of this as you can see so that the sleeve portion not the bodice but the sleeve is what's on the feed dogs because the feed dogs will kind of help spread this all out a little bit and will prevent puckers a little bit I mean it's not going to if the puckers in there it's not going to prevent that but it'll help a little bit but yeah just stitch around your five eighths inch seam allowance and one sleeve is done hey one beautiful sleeve in the only thing left to do after you stitch your sleeve in is to finish that raw edge on the inside I'm searching mine obviously so I searched all the way around and then you can see my basting stitches are still in here so I'm just going to remove those so that you cannot see them just in a couple of places if I can get them all out I will um but that's that all right pretty easy right pretty straightforward I love that we have the sleeves already done got that out of the way we won't have to mess with that uh toward the end it always feels so like rushed at the end because you're just so excited so I'm happy to have the sleeves already done tomorrow's video will go to will be dedicated to the casing the skirt and the pockets so I will meet you back here tomorrow for episode two of my new look 6651 sew along