 This is Ken Halevang, agricultural engineer with the NDSU Extension Service. And this is the next segment of the Flooded House Cleanup series. And this one we're going to be continuing some more looking at the actual cleanup process, some of the washing and sanitizing aspects. I get a number of questions related to the exterior wall of the home. And generally what we will find is that exterior wall will dry because there's enough, once the wall is opened up there's enough exposure both on the inside and outside to adequately dry it. But there are some things that you will want to take a look at. If we're looking at a brick facing on a home, we want to make sure that the weep holes are open so that the water is draining out of that wall cavity, making sure that we've got airflow there to help with the drying of that brick facing. If we're going with a stucco facing on a house, we'll need to be opening up that wall cavity on the inside again, making sure that we've got good air flows that were drying both the inside and outside of that stucco surface. The top right picture shows a wall with siding, lap siding, and then we have a fiberboard sheeting sometimes referred to as buffalo board. And it'll really require a little more investigation with this one, to determine whether that buffalo board is still intact. And again, by opening the inside, removing the insulation, we now have airflow on both sides. That may or may not be able to be salvaged. In the bottom left picture, it really shows that with most of our homes, we have a sheeting surface that the outside siding or whatever is applied against. And that sheeting really will dry typically because our vinyl siding, our steel siding, the lap siding, all allow a fair amount of airflow through them to allow for that drying process to take place. So you really need to open the wall, take a look at it, but frequently what we will expect is that that outside wall will dry down and we will not have to actually take that part of the wall apart. When we're looking at the electrical parts of our home, all of the electrical fixtures, switches, outlets, circuit breakers submerged in the flood water will need to be replaced. Electric motors will need to be professionally reconditioned. As I indicated earlier, the mud and debris gets in there and becomes electrical hazard. It may affect the life of that motor as well. So we really need to determine, is it worth having someone professionally reconditioned or do I just get a new motor? With the electrical wiring, it will depend on the type of wire that is used and we will really need to consult an electrician or an electrical inspector to determine whether that needs to be replaced or not. So with all of these, we really need to have an electrician or electrical inspector involved as we start doing the refurbishing of the electrical system. With photographs and other valuable materials, generally with photos, if they are wet, what's best is to put them into a plastic bag and freeze them. If we can put some wax paper between the layers, that will stop any of the deterioration and then we can do the cleanup later. Important papers typically will end up musty and moldy. We probably need to photocopy them once they are dry and then discard the originals. CDs, DVDs, generally can be rinsed and cleaned up with water and then dried. Crawl spaces are kind of a special area that we need to look at because most of the homes should have a poly or plastic on that floor in the crawl space. But many of them do not. We are going to have a very saturated environment in that crawl space that needs to be dried out. And we need to remove the plastic if it is there, remove other things that might be in the crawl space and then we need to dry it as rapidly as we can. And what works best for that is ventilation, moving air through the crawl space. We recommend putting a fan facing to the outdoors. So we're pulling air in through one side and then the fan is forcing the air out the other side. We want to vacuum in that crawl space because if we put positive pressure in there, if we face the fan blowing into the crawl space, it will push any air through plumbing openings or other openings up into the living space and contaminate that and we don't want that. So we want the vacuum, we want the suction by blowing the fan to the outdoors and that then allows us to very effectively dry that soil. It will take a long time for the soil to dry, but that is how we will dry that area. Once we get it all dry, then we put plastic back on the soil. Once we have everything opened up, have all of the debris removed, then we look at cleaning the structure. And the recommendation is to use water and flush all of the non-porous surfaces. Some type of a sprayer is shown in that top picture. It really works quite well to flush off all of the larger mud and debris. Once we have it flushed off, then we come in and actually use a detergent to scrub off the surface. And really what is recommended is a two bucket system. One that has a detergent in it and then a second one that is the rinse bucket. So when we get done scrubbing, we rinse out our mop or our rags or whatever we are using in the rinse bucket until it is clean. Then we go into the detergent bucket and back to cleaning the surface. And we will have to change the water in that rinse bucket frequently as we are removing the dirt and cleaning the surface. They really recommend a non-phosphate soap or detergent be used because phosphate detergent can leave a film on the surface that mold will grow readily on. So we prefer a non-phosphate type detergent. Once we have got the surface all scrubbed down, then the recommendation is to rinse with clean water. And then finally, if we are looking at non-porous surfaces, if we are looking at a hard surface such as concrete in a basement, we can sanitize that other non-porous surfaces we can sanitize. Wood, we cannot treat. There are very few products available for trying to sanitize or treat wood. But we are looking at hard and non-porous surfaces with any of the sanitizing that we are doing. We hear a lot about using bleach or using other biosides as part of the process of cleaning up a flooded home. But it is very important that we make sure that we use those products according to the label. There will be on that model a label that gives all of the information and that really is the law. These are registered products and it is important that we use them according to that label. Most of the products that we are going to have available to us, just about all of the products are not effective at doing disinfecting on porous material. So again, when we are looking at wood studs, we are looking at wall, plywood, that we really cannot sanitize. But what we are looking at is hard non-porous surfaces. But it is important that the bioside go on to a clean surface. Most all of the biosides are neutralized and become ineffective if they are applied to organic material. So we shouldn't use a bioside when we first come into a home. We only do the bioside on a clean surface. They will specify required exposure time. Most all of these biosides are hazardous materials. So it is important that we use our personal protective equipment. They require that the area be ventilated. Some of the typical or common biosides that are available are alcohol, sodium hypochlorite or chlorine bleach, hydrogen peroxide, iodine, quaternary ammonium chloride, and synthesized phenolic compounds. And so there are a number of products available. But generally what we are talking about is bleach. And as I indicated, we need to follow the label on bleach. It only is for non-porous hard materials and surfaces. So concrete, glass, metal, so if we are working on our appliances, et cetera, that is where we will use the chlorine bleach. We need to use personal protective equipment, gloves, goggles. The area needs to be ventilated because the gas that is given off from the bleach is a hazardous gas. It can cause lung irritation. So we need adequate ventilation. You will need to look at the bottle to see what the recommended dosage is or solution strength is. But typically it will be three quarters of a cup of bleach per gallon of water. We need to apply enough of it to keep the surface wet for five minutes because bleach is corrosive. We will need to then rinse that surface off and then dry it. And so why we would use chlorine bleach again is on appliances, could be used on concrete, but not on structural wood. Since biocides are considered a disinfectant and are a pesticide, they are a regulated material. And anything that carries a designation as a disinfectant has to be registered with EPA and will carry a EPA registration number. As they get that number or that registration, they need to document to EPA that indeed their product works. And if you are trying to determine is this product indeed a registered product or not, in addition to looking actually on the label, you can go to the Ag Department website that is listed here on the slide, AgDepartment.com, and they'll actually link to KellySolutions.com. And all of the products that are registered in North Dakota are listed there, their labels, all of the information that you would need. If you have somebody else applying the disinfectant in your building, it's important to make sure that they are certified and have had the training to apply that chemical. And in North Dakota, they would be certified under the home and industrial category. So that brings us to the end of this segment looking at the cleanup process. And the final segment will be related to drying out the home, which is probably as important as all of the other steps that we have already talked about.