 Seven, six, five, four, three, two, one, go. You'll never have anything. What's up guys, welcome to today's vlog. Today, I got something special for you guys. We're gonna do a little bit of fantasy color with pulp riot hair color. I just got this stuff in the mail and I'm really loving using it and creating different things with it. So this is the cut that we did. It's a nice short textured haircut. You can see some of the disconnection underneath. We threw in some of that really fun hair color. We used the pulp riot cupid, blush, and smoke to create this look. We did a couple different processes, so I think you guys are gonna like the breakdown of this. But this is the cut, it's a lot of fun. The color is a lot of fun. We're gonna get started because we got a lot of details to go through. Thanks for watching. Let me know what you think in the comments below. Here we go. All right guys, so this mannequin head has a previously cut haircut. I wanted to create a nice short, disconnected, textured haircut, but I wanted to take out a lot of this bulk so I go through and I just look at what we had done before, which was definitely a disconnected top, much longer top. One side was definitely shorter than the other side, so it was more of asymmetrical haircut. What I'm gonna do is bring symmetry into this haircut and also shorten up the sides and create a ton of texture. So we're gonna start off with our Donald Scott Prepare. This is actually, Prepare is a liquid tool glide for razor cutting, but I also really love it for using it as a cutting lotion because it's very lightweight and it's very nourishing to the hair. So it's just something I have, so I throw it in the hair. Definitely a cool product to check out. If you do a lot of razor cutting, it keeps the hair nice and healthy and gives a nice slip for the razor so you don't damage the hair. So I'm gonna go through. I start with a vertical line down center back and I just work slightly diagonal forward and work a straight line 90 degrees out from the head the entire way down. That angle is gonna change as I get up towards the crown of the head, but as for now, I'm just working through using a traveling guide in the back. So I think that's key thing to point out. If I use too much over direction in the back of the head, what's gonna happen is I'm gonna push way too much weight forward. So I really wanna kind of round off the back of the head shape, keep a really nice balanced look in the back and now you can see I'm pointing out that angle. So at the tip of my fingers, if you were to go straight out from the head and mid crown, that would be 90 degrees. So it would be much higher angle. So we're really at about a 45 degree angle at the tip of my finger. So that's gonna be our buildup of weight. So if you wanted less weight in the back, then you'd give a little bit higher elevation there. I want a nice standard amount of weight, nothing too crazy. This mannequin has medium density so it works out nice just to have that nice 45 degree angle. So now we're gonna work around the corner. Now a lot of you guys are gonna wanna just over direct this back and push all that weight forward. But I like to round off the corner in this haircut because I don't wanna push too much length or preserve too much length in the front. So it's very important for me to just keep kind of coming back to the previous section. So there's a slight bit of over direction but for the most part, just straight back to that section, straight out from the head just to keep that flow going around. I like the balanced look of the layering and it gives you a nice foundation to lay the top of the haircut over. The cool thing about this haircut and what you guys saw in the very beginning of the video, you can see that it has that kind of longer top but it's really shattered. And that was the inspiration I got. I saw a picture on Instagram that I really loved how the haircut looked. It had a lot of texture and movement through it but it still felt like it had structure on the sides. So we're gonna continue to do the same thing on the opposite side. This is now moving to the right. The change that we make is how my hand is positioned. So my fingers are pointing down and that's just to keep my combing consistent. So you can see before I was working the comb towards the center back of the head and now when I work to the right hand side, I'm still working my comb towards the center back of the head. That's gonna keep my sectioning consistent, my combing consistent and also the lengths that I'm putting in the head and the elevation consistent. So the hardest part about cutting with your fingers pointing down is that your elbow is up in the air. So you just wanna make sure that you really focus on that elevation. Look at your finger angle before you make the cut because then you're gonna have more success with it. You don't wanna look at your finger angle after you cut it and figure out that you've completely changed your angle. So find your guide, take small sections and make sure that you keep that elevation nice and high. A little trick for me to stay consistent with elevation is that the guest head moves. And that was one thing that took me a while out of beauty school to figure out that you could really move that guest head around to make yourself more comfortable behind the chair. So when I'm working on the left hand side and I have my elbow down, I tilt their head more forward, which gives me a better angle and just keeps me more consistent. Now when I shift them and I'm working on the right hand side like I am right now, I would tilt their head back just a little bit and that gives me a better angle when I have my elbow up in the air. So I don't have to keep it up there so high which just keeps me more consistent. So just be really aware of what's happening with the guest head. As you're working on them so that you have more success and you're more comfortable when you're cutting her hair. So now we're working around the corner. I'm using my 339 comb. You notice that I'm using the tight teeth of the comb. That gives me more tension in my haircut. Just allows me to have more grip on the hair and really just keep a more precise line. Now that's based on hair type. So because this mannequin has a medium density hair, a nice smooth kind of fabric to her hair, you don't have to worry about the tension being too tight. If she had really curly hair, I would do less tension to give it more of a natural feel and not stretch it too far out from where it lives. Also, if she had a really strong calic, I wouldn't use the tight tension of the comb either. I would use more of a loose tension, give it a more natural fall. But because there's no calics, because she has this fabric of hair, no problem using the fine teeth of the comb. 339 comb is great. It's a YS Park comb. It's got really a great amount of tension on the hair. And also I'm using my DB20 scissor, which is a scissor from Mizutani. It's my go-to scissor that I use on pretty much every haircut that I do. So now I wanna go through, I'm creating the disconnection. So on the opposite side, I didn't talk about it yet. There was already a disconnection. So what I wanted to do on this side was recreate that same kind of feel. The great thing about creating kind of an undercut disconnection in this haircut is that it's gonna allow some of that longer hair to fall over top of it to give it more of a textured look without having the hair being too long. So you can still have those long layers on top, but still have a PC separation. So you see how it falls over there, gives it that texture. So now we've created the same look on both sides. That's really just taking the haircut that the guest already has and adapting it to what you want it to be. So now I've switched to my Mizutani blacksmith fit. This is a six and a half inch scissor. So for my precision cutting, I use a 5.7 inch scissor. For my scissor over comb, I go in with a six and a half inch. So I just cleaned up more cross-checking the back portion that I cut and I blew it dry just to smooth it out and see how it looks. Now we're gonna go through the top, take a horizontal section across the top and I just do some really deep point cutting in there to create a shattered line and everything's being over directed straight up. So if you look at the angle that I'm actually holding the hair, you'll see that we're going to collapse the crown area. So as we cut the wet cut in the very back, bottom portion of the hair, we kind of build up that weight line using that 45 degree angle towards the crown. So I don't wanna continue to build up the crown. I wanna start to collapse it and create those short layer pieces. So we start off in the crown, deep point cut, then I take another horizontal section, over direct that back to me and point cut it some more. So I'm creating nice short layers in the back crown but then pushing that length to the front to give a nice longer fringe look. Still keeping those shorter layers using the point cutting but now I'm pushing the weight to the front so I can go in and customize it dry which is what we're gonna do next. So nice deep point cut, straight horizontal line across the top of the head, keeping that weight kind of sitting in the corners. We'll remove that with a texture scissor later on but you can see all those short layers on top, how that kind of works and then all of that length that we've pushed to the front will now go in and customize it to fit the haircut. So I talk about this all the time but haircutting is all about pushing hair where you want to cut it later. So I want to cut that front and I wanna customize it so I'm gonna take the weight off the back, push the length to the front, now I can chisel out the front. So I take a nice triangle section out of the bang area, I pinch the middle part of that section, I can see some of those layers starting to fall right there and now I'm gonna go through and do a tease cutting technique. The way that you do the tease cutting technique is you half close the scissor on your way in and then you release it out. So I pinch the hair, I half close the scissor in as I tease the hair in and what that does is it cuts a shattered line so it doesn't give me this blunt cut so you can see how nice and soft the edges are on that fringe, that's all because of the tease cutting technique working its way in and out. So it takes a little bit of practice but definitely worth it. So this is my Mizutani puff and scissor, this is a dry cutting scissor, it's five and a half inches. So I can just glide through the hair, it's made for dry cutting. The reason I say I like having a dry cutting scissor is because if you use your precision cutting scissor for dry hair all the time, it's just gonna wear it out definitely and the dry cutting scissor is made to be powerful. You can see how fat the blade is on that scissor, it's meant to work through thick kind of dry hair as opposed to your precision scissor which has a nice soft blade to it, it could rough up the blade over time if you're cutting on dry hair a lot. So not a big deal, you're just gonna be sharpening your scissor more often, might not get as much life out of your scissor later on. So now we're going through point cutting throughout the top just really giving more separation to those layers and now I'm gonna go through is my type Z dual texture scissor and really start to shatter the top. So I wanted to build as much texture as possible into this haircut and you're gonna see that how the type Z dual works is it doesn't have a regular blade like most texture scissors, both blades are teeth. So when you cut down on the hair, there's no friction happening so it just glides right through the hair so I can do that slide cutting technique through the top and it just creates all that texture and I'll show you the result of that at the end. So now we're gonna get into our color portion. I know a lot of you guys probably watched this video for the color, this is really fun. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna pre-lighten the hair. So I'm going through, I'm using Vibracolor powder lights. It's really just 40 volume regular lightener. This is not a balayage lightener or anything like that. I'm keeping it a little bit off the scalp. I would do that with my guest in the salon. You don't wanna put the lightener, especially 40 volume right on the scalp but I am using Olaplex in the lightener as well to just soften to keep those bonds from really getting too broken throughout the process. So I'm just going through touching it up. The reason I keep it a little bit off the scalp it's gonna work its way down to the scalp. I'm not worried about that but I don't want that lightener just sitting on somebody's scalp. Even a plastic head like we're using here. So I go through, apply the lightener all over. My goal with getting the lightener on the head is to give it some lift. I know it's kind of a blonde tone right now but you're using the fantasy colors, you have to have it nice and light. So I'm gonna get this mannequin as light as possible by running the lightener through. That gives me my kind of blank canvas. Also you saw on the top of the mannequin there was already some old copper hair color in there. So I gotta pull that copper hair color out as well. So I'm looking to get this to a level 910 and then I can start with my blank canvas. So this process in the salon is definitely one that you want to charge for your time because you're going to be pre-lightening the hair completely and then once the hair is pre-lightened then you're gonna be applying a whole another color technique. So you wanna charge for the double process. So we're using the pulp riot smoke mixed with clear. So about an ounce of the smoke with a half ounce of clear and then I did the same thing with the blush. Even though the blush is nice and light I wanted to lighten it even more. Almost use it as a toner on the hair. So I used a little bit of the clear in that as well. So just really customize that for your guests. Now the one thing that we're gonna talk about in a little bit is as I start applying the smoke to her hair I can already tell that this has kind of a blue base to it which was unexpected and this is the first time I've really used this color on someone. So I was just sent this, fun to play with I wanted to show it to you guys but now I started to see that blue coming through. So we'll see, I'll show you guys what happens in the result at the end. But what I'm gonna do, I'll talk about application now I'm applying this all to the base of the hair. So almost like a root touch up and then pulling it through in the back. What I wanted to do is kind of give it a smoky base on the scalp and then have that kind of blush ends come off of there. So I apply that all to the base then I apply the blush to the longer ends throughout the haircut. And that's really, that was my goal with this hair color. So I apply it on the bottom first, work that through and then I go through the top. I take nice horizontal sections throughout there and I paint the base and I just paint the base all the way through the entire top and then I go through and apply the ends it's just so much easier. And I also don't mind a little bit of mixture of the base and the ends going together right at that mid shaft area because it kind of blends the tones together. It's almost like creating a third color for your guest. So just finishing up, go through coloring the base and I'm gonna pull it through the ends. You can see that I go a little bit into that base color as I'm painting. I'm not worried again about those two things mixing up. The other thing about pulp right hair color that I noticed is it smells great. So it's definitely, it's great for your guests but it's also great as a hairdresser to know that you can make hair color like that and it doesn't smell. So there's the overall color technique. Now we're gonna let it process. All right guys, so I just need to interrupt this video for one second to let you know that sometimes it doesn't completely turn out the way that you wanted. So her base tone, when I pulled her up went a little bit yellow and what happens with yellow I went in and I put the smoke in there. Thought this would be more of a violet-y base but turns out I think it's a little bit more of a blue base. So because it's a blue base, I put it on her yellow hair. She turned a little bit green toned. It's kind of a seaweed tone which I actually like just not in this exact technique. So what we did was we went through threw in some cupid on the base to kind of purple it out a little bit, give it a little more of that smoky feel but also blend into the blush ends that we created. So I'm gonna apply that really fast and that's what's gonna give us that end result. So it's a little bit of a double process but sometimes in salon reality we get stuck in those situations. I wanted to show you guys what the real result looked like and how I shifted it to make it make sense and work together because that's the reality of what we do when you're playing with something new. So let's get back into the video. Here we go. All right, so this was our end result of the first application. So you can see it definitely has more of a green kind of murky base and that has everything to do with the fact that it was yellow hair and we put a blue base color on it. I didn't know it was blue base. So the smoke definitely has that blue base feel to it. So now we're gonna overlay it and the cool thing about overlaying this color is that I've already got the ends pretty much where I want them. I got the mid shaft nice and light as well. So we're gonna go through, I did use the cupid but I added some clear to that as well. It was probably half and half the cupid half clear and now I'm gonna overlay it. You can see as soon as that pink hits the green it starts to almost neutralize it because if you think about green and red pink is made up of red and we had green hair. So it's gonna start to neutralize it but what it's gonna do is give it, it's so light. It's gonna give it kind of a smokier feel to the actual hair color. So we're getting the result that we were looking for. Anyways, so I just go through and I apply that over anything that I see that kind of has that greenish tone and that's gonna help neutralize it out but give me that kind of purpley feel to the base that I was looking for in the first place and I'm gonna keep the ends already what they are. So it's those nice kind of pale blush ends. It's gonna look really nice and the end result. So just going through painting it in. This is stuff that happens in the salon that you definitely have to kind of counteract. This is why you don't do hair color at home and you go to a salon so that you can figure out exactly where you need to go and get it adjusted. So you can see that base already looks good. I'm already excited about it in the salon. I can tell that it's gonna look nice. So I just get done applying it. Let that process for about 15 minutes under no heat, nothing, it doesn't need any of that. And also I like to go through and just at the very end I'm kind of mushing everything together. Not pulling the color all the way through the ends but pulling it up into the ends a little bit with my fingers and that just kind of helps melt everything for the end result. So now I go through and I blow dry. You can see those blush ends pop. This would be an unbelievable toner using that blush with a little bit of clear just to overlay some blonde hair. You can see how beautiful blonde that looks and how yellow it was to begin with. So just know that you're using those pinks. It's going to neutralize. It's going to help create those beautiful blonde looks. So now I'm gonna go back through with the Type Z dual texture scissor just to really work on that fringe a little bit more now that I've blown it dry I've got the final look going through. Just wanted to add a little more texture to the front of the haircut. So that's a little pinch cutting technique I like to do. Just pinch the hair out and glide that Type Z dual texture scissor through. And then another technique where I just kind of pinch it and lift it up and just shatter the ends and take some of that weight out of the ends. You can see all the texture in it though and I love how the deep kind of purples the deep pinks come through and then the light ends just pop through the top. Really cool technique. Hope you guys like it. Let me know in the comments below what you think of this technique and if you like the cut in color put together I know it was a longer video but I definitely hope that you guys found benefit throughout the whole thing. This is Paul Mitchell Spray Wax. I wanted a product that would give it that texture that kind of was delivered in a spray form without too much hold. So that is the styling product that I chose. This is the end result. Hope you guys like it. Again, thank you guys for watching and supporting free salon education. What's up guys? Like always if you like this video then hit the like button. Hit the share button. Share this video with all of your friends out there and also make sure that you subscribe below and check out our website freesaloneducation.com for a lot more free salon education videos and also the scissors, the combs, the clips, everything you saw in this video is available on our website. So check it out. Thank you guys so much for watching. Thank you for the support. I'll see you guys on the next video. Thanks. Bye.