 CHAPTER XI. Anatolia, Burdur, Subarta, Ekridur, Akshahar, Kara Elisar, Lodig, Fortress of Tawaz, Milaz, Kunia, the grave of Maulana Rumi, Laranda, Akshara, Nicola, Sivas, Amasya, Sunusa, Kumash, Arzanjan, Arsarum, Birki, remarkable piece of meteoric stone seen here, Tirah, Ayusaluk, Yasmir, Magnesia, Burgama, Barusa, Yaznik, Bustuni, Buli, Barlu, Kastamunia. From this place I proceeded to the district of Anatolia which contains some handsome cities. In all the Turkmen town there is a brotherhood of youths, one of whom is termed my brother. No people are more courteous to strangers, more readily supply them with food and other necessaries, or are more opposed to oppressors than they are. The person who is styled the brother is one about whom persons of the same occupation, or even foreign youths who happen to be destitute, collect and constitute their president. He then builds a cell, and in this he puts a horse, a saddle, and whatever other implements may be wanting. He then attends daily upon his companions and assists them with whatever they may happen to want. In the evening they come to him and bring all they have got, which is sold to purchase food, fruit, etc., for the use of the cell. Should a stranger happen to arrive in their country they get him among them, and with this provision they entertain him, nor does he leave them till he finally leaves their country. If however no traveller arrive, then they assemble to eat up their provisions, which they do with drinking, singing, and dancing. On the morrow they return to their occupations, and in the evening return again to their president. They are therefore styled the youths. Their president? The brother. In this city I went to the college of its sheik, Şahab ad-Din El-Hamawi, and on the second day one of this society came to me. He was addressed by the sheik in Turkish. The sheik told me that this man came to invite us to a feast. I was much astonished, and said to the sheik, This is a poor man. How can he afford to feast us, who are many? The sheik was surprised at my reply, and said, This is one of the brotherhood. A society consisting of two hundred soap-merchants who have a cell of their own. I consented therefore, then went to the cell and witnessed the astonishing attention, kindness and liberality which they showed their guests. May God reward them. The Sultan of Anatolia was Kazerbeg Ibn Yunus, the Turkmen. I was presented to him. He was then sick. He behaved very liberally towards us, gave us provisions, and sent money for our travelling expenses. I next proceeded to the town of Burdur, which is small and surrounded by trees and gardens. I first went to the house of the Khatib, the preacher, and there met the society of the brotherhood, who invited us to their feast. The Khatib refused to go. They therefore gave us a feast in a garden without the town. I was truly astonished at their wish to show us every respect and attention, although we were ignorant of their language and they of ours. In this place I went to the town of Sabarta, which is handsomely built and has good streets. I next went to the city of Acredur, which is large and abounding with trees and water. A lake of sweet water adjoins it over which vessels pass in the space of two days, of Aqshahar and two other places. I here put up at the lecturers El Fazeel Mosley-Audine, who treated me very respectfully. The sultan of this place was Abu Ishaq Beg, one of the greatest princes of these parts. He gave us protection in his district throughout the month of Ramadan. During my residence I was introduced to him. After this he sent me a horse and some money. He is a condescending and excellent prince. I then went to the city of Karahisar. It is small and surrounded by water on every side. The sultan is Muhammad Chalabi. He is the brother of Abu Ishaq, king of Acredur. I was introduced to him and he treated me with great respect and gave me some provisions. After this I proceeded to the city of Ladik, which is a large and fine city abounding with water and gardens. As soon as I had entered it a number of persons who were in the streets got up and seized upon the bridles of our horses. After which others came and contested the point with them. We were much alarmed at this, but a person coming up who could speak Arabic said they were contending only as to who should entertain us as they were of the society of youths. Upon this I felt safe. They then cast lots and we proceeded to the cell of the party on whom the lot fell, and on the day following to that of the other. Both parties showed us the greatest respect. The sultan Yataj Beg, who is one of the greatest princes of these parts, hearing of us, sent for us and treated us with great respect. I then proceeded to the fortress of Tawas, then to the city of Meles which is large and beautiful. Its sultan is Urkhan Beg, Ibn El-Mantasha. When I was introduced to him he treated me with great respect. He is a very excellent prince. I proceeded from this place to the city of Kuniya, which is large and handsome and abounds with water and gardens. This district belongs to the sultan Badr Adin Ibn Karman. Over which, however, the king of Iraq has occasionally had the rule on account of its proximity to some of his states which are in these parts. I put up at the cell of its Qazi, who is known by the name of Ibn Qulam Shah. He is a member of the society of youths. His cell is most beautiful, and he has a great number of disciples who trace the authorities for their judicial decisions as high as Ali Ibn Abi Talib. They are clothed as the Sufis are with the curks and clothed trousers. In this place is the tomb of the holy sheik Jalal Adin, better known by the title of Maulana Ar-Mala. He is very highly esteemed. It is said that he was at first a mere lecturing doctor who had a large number of pupils. But upon a certain day a stranger came into his lecture room with a basket of sweet-meats which he had for sale upon his head. The sheik said to him, bring your basket here. The man took a piece of sweet-meat and gave it to the sheik who ate it. He then went out, no one else having tasted the sweet-meat. The sheik became agitated and went out after him giving up his reading, and leaving his pupils in a state of expectation. At length, however, they set out in quest of him but failed to discover the place of his retreat. Some years after he returned with his mind arranged and speaking nothing but Persian verses. These his pupils, as they followed him, noted down and published under the title of the Mathnavi, a book highly esteemed in these parts. I next proceeded to the city of Loranda, the Sultan of which is El-Malik, Badr-Adin, Ibn Karman, who makes this place his capital. I met him and was entertained with the greatest kindness as his guest. I then proceeded to Exara, which is one of the finest districts of room and subject to the king of Iraq. I next went to the city of Nikta, then to Qisara, Caesarea, both of which are subject to the king of Iraq. I proceeded to the city of Sivas, which is also subject to the king of Iraq. It is a large place and now the rendezvous of the greater part of the king's army. I next went to the city of Amazia, then to Sinuza, then to Qumash, then to Arzenjan, then to Azarum, all of which are subject to the king of Iraq. In Azarum I saw the brother Tumen, one of the society of youths whose age exceeded 130 years. He was still in possession of all his faculties and could walk wherever he wished. After receiving his blessing I proceeded to the city of Burki, the king of which was Muhammad ibn Adin. I was in company with the lecturer of this place, Mouyi Adin, one of the most celebrated and reputable men of his age, introduced to the presence. The king one day said to me, Have you ever seen a stone that came down from heaven? I answered, No. He continued such a stone has fallen in the environs of our city. He then called some men and ordered them to bring the stone which they did. It was a black, solid, exceedingly hard and shining substance. If weighed it would probably exceed a talent. He then ordered some stone-cutters to come in, when four came forward. He commanded them to strike upon it. They all struck together upon it accordingly with an iron hammer four successive strokes, which however made not the least impression upon it. I was much astonished at this. The king then ordered the stone to be taken to its place. He sent fruit and food to us during the time we remained there, and when I had bitten him farewell he sent me a thousand dirhams with one hundred mcthals of gold, as also clothing two horses and a slave. He also sent for my companions some dirhams and clothing separately. I then proceeded to the city of Tira, which belongs also to this prince. It is large and abounds with gardens and water. From this place I went to the city of Ayasulu, the emir of which is the sultan Muhammad ibn Aideen, son of the sultan of Burki. Then to the city of Yasmir, which belongs to the sultan of Burki, its emir is Omar Beg, one of the sultan's sons and a most excellent prince. I then proceeded to the city of Magnesia, the sultan of which is called Saru Khan. I then went to the city of Bergama, Pergamos, of which the philosopher Plato is said to have been an inhabitant. His house is still seen here. The sultan of this place is styled Bakshi Khan. I next went to the city of Balikazra, which is large and beautiful. Its governor is called Damir Khan. I then went to the city of Barusa, which is a large place and governed by Iktiyar Aideen Erkan Beg, son of Othman Juq. This is one of the greatest, richest and most extensive in rule in commanding the greatest army of all the Turkmen kings. His practice is constantly to be visiting his fortresses and districts and to be inquiring into their circumstances. It is said that he never remained a month in any one place. His father had conquered the city of Barusa and had besieged that of Yaznik nearly twenty years but did not take it. After this his son besieged it for twelve years and took it. In this place I met him. He received me very respectfully and provided me with a considerable number of dirhams. I next went to Yaznik. It has a large lake, eight miles in length. The city is also surrounded with water and trees. I then left this place and after some days arrived at the city of Bustuni. After this at the city of Buli, the king of which is Shah Beg. I then went to the city of Berlu, which belongs to the governor of Castimonia. I then went to Castimonia, which is a very large and beautiful city abounding with every delicacy which may be purchased at a very low rate. I saw an aged sheik among its inhabitants, whose age, as I was told, amounted to that of one hundred and sixty-two years. Its sultan was Suleyman Badshah, a splendid but aged man. He is a respectable and respected person. I was introduced to him and received very honorably. CHAPTER XII. Sanub, Krim, Kirush, the desert of Kifjak, Al-Khafah, subject to Muhammad Uzbek Khan, El-Sarai, Azakh, El-Mahar, Bish-Tagh, the camp of Muhammad Uzbek. Ceremonies observed here, Bolgar, mode of traveling here, Astrakhan, permission to visit Constantinople, Ukakh, mountains of the Russians, Serdak, Babasaltuk. I then went on to the city of Sanub, which is large and belongs to the governor of Castimonia, Suleyman Badshah. I remained here some time, leaving this place I preceded by sea for the city of El-Kharam, Krim, but suffered considerable distress in the voyage, and was very near being drowned. We arrived, however, at length at the port of El-Kharash, which belongs to the desert country of Kifjak. This desert is green and productive. It has, however, neither tree, mountain, hill, nor wood in it. The inhabitants burn dung. They travel over this desert upon a cart which they call Arabah. The journey is one of six months. The extent of three of which belongs to the Sultan Muhammad Uzbek Khan. That of three more to the infidels. I hired one of these carts for my journey from the port of Kharash to the city of El-Kharam, which belongs to Muhammad Uzbek. The greater part of the inhabitants are Christians living under his protection. From this place I traveled in a cart to the city of El-Kharam, which is one of the large and beautiful cities of the districts of the Sultan Muhammad Uzbek Khan. From this place I preceded upon a cart which I had hired, to the city of El-Sarai, the residence of Muhammad Uzbek. The peculiarity of this desert is that its herbs serve for fodder for their beasts, and on this account their cattle are numerous. They have neither feeders nor keepers which arises from the severity of their laws against theft, which are these. When anyone is convicted of having stolen a beast, he is compelled to return it with nine others of equal value. But if this is not in his power his children are taken. If however he have no children, he is himself slaughtered just like a sheep. After several days' journey I arrived at Azak, which is a small town situated on the seashore, and it resides in Amir on the part of the Sultan Muhammad who treated us with great respect and hospitality. From this place I proceeded to the city of El-Mahar, which is a large and handsome place. The Turkish women of these parts are very highly respected, particularly the wives of the nobles and kings. These women are religious and prone to almsgiving and other good works. They go unveiled, however, with their faces quite exposed. I next set out camp of the Sultan which was then in a place called Bish-Tagh, or Five Mountains, and arrived at a station to which the Sultan with his retinue had just come before us. At this place which is termed the Urdu, or camp, we arrived on the first of the month Ramadan. Here we witnessed a moving city, with its streets, mosques and cooking-houses, the smoke of which ascended as they moved along. When however they halted all these became stationary. This Sultan Muhammad Uzbek is very powerful, enjoys extensive rule and is a subduer of the infidels. He is one of the seven great kings of the world, which are the Sultan of the West, the Sultan of Egypt and Syria, the Sultan of the two Iraqs, the Sultan of the Turks Uzbek, the Sultan of Turkestan, and Mawar al-Nahar, the Sultan of India and the Sultan of China. It is accustomed with Muhammad Uzbek to sit after prayer on the Friday under an alcove called the Golden Alcove, which is very much ornamented. He has a throne in the middle of it overlaid with silver plate which is gilded and set with jewels. The Sultan sits upon the throne. His four wives, some at his right hand, others at his left, sitting also upon the throne. Beneath the throne stand his two sons, one on his right, the other on his left, before him sits his daughter. Whenever one of these wives enters he arises and taking her by the hand puts her into her place upon the throne. Thus they are exposed to the sight of all without so much as a veil. After this come in the great emirs, for whom chairs are placed on the right and left, and on these they sit. Before the king stand the princes, who are the sons of his uncle, brothers, and near kinsmen. In front of these and near the door stand the sons of the great emirs, and behind these the general officers of the army. People then enter according to their rank and saluting the king return and take their seats at a distance. When however the evening prayer is over the supreme consort who is queen returns. The rest follow each with their attendant beautiful slaves. The women who are separated on account of any uncleanness are seated upon horses, before their carriages or cavalry, behind them beautiful mamlooks. Upon this day I was presented to the sultan who received me very graciously, and afterwards sent me some sheep and a horse with a leather bag of chemise, which is the milk of a mare, and very much valued among them is a beverage. The wives of this king are highly honoured. Each one has a mansion for herself, her followers and servants. When the sultan wishes to visit one of them he sends word in preparation is made. One of these wives is a daughter of Takfur, the emperor of Constantinople. I had already visited each of them and on this account the sultan received me. This is a custom among them, and whoever fails in observing it suffers the imputation of a breach of politeness. I had formerly heard of the city of Bulgar, and hence I had conceived a desire to see it and to observe whether what has been related of it, as to the extremity of the shortness of its nights and again of its days in the opposite season of the year, were true or not. There was, however, between that place and the camp of the sultan a distance of ten days. I requested the sultan therefore that he would appoint someone who would bring me thither and back, which he granted. When therefore I was saying the prayer of sunset in that place, which happened in the month of Ramadan, I hasted. Nevertheless the time for evening prayer came on which I went hastily through. I then said that of midnight as well as that termed el-Vatir, but was overtaken by the dawn. In the same manner also is the day shortened in this place in the opposite season of the year. I remained here three days and then returned to the king. In Bulgar I was told of the land of darkness, and certainly had a great desire to go to it from that place. The distance, however, was that of forty days. I was diverted, therefore, from the undertaking both on account of its great danger and the little good to be derived from it. I was told that there was no travelling thither except upon little sledges which were drawn by large dogs, and that during the whole of the journey the roads are covered with ice, upon which neither the feet of man nor the hooves of beast can take any hold. These dogs, however, have nails by which their feet can take firm hold on the ice. No one enters these parts except powerful merchants, each of whom has perhaps a hundred of such sledges as these, which they load with provisions, drinks, and wood. For there we have neither trees, stones, nor houses. The guide in this country is the dog, who has gone the journey several times, the price of which will amount to about a thousand dinars. The sledge is harnessed to his neck, and with him three other dogs are joined, but of which he is the leader. The others then follow him with the sledge, and when he stops, they stop. The master never strikes or reprimands this dog, and when he proceeds to a meal the dogs are fed first, for if this were not done they would become enraged, and perhaps run away and leave their master to perish. When the travellers have completed their forty days or stages through this desert, they arrive at the land of darkness and each man leaving what he has brought with him goes back to his appointed station. On the morrow they return to look for their goods and find instead of them Sable, Ermin, and the fur of the Sin Jam. If then the merchant likes what he finds he takes it away. If not he leaves it and more is added to it. Upon some occasions however these people will take back their own goods and leave those of the merchants. In this way is their buying and selling carried on, for the merchants know not whether it is with mankind or demons that they have to do, no one being seen during the transaction. It is one of the properties of these furs that no vermin ever enters them. I return to the camp of the Sultan on the twenty-eighth of Ramadan, and after that travel with him to the city of Astrakhan, which is one of his cities. It is situated on the banks of the river Atal, which is one of the great rivers of the world. At this place the Sultan resides during very cold weather, and when this river as well as the adjoining waters are frozen, the king orders the people of the country to bring thousands of bundles of hay, which they do, and then place it upon the ice, and upon this they travel. When the king had arrived at Astrakhan, one of his wives who was daughter to the emperor of Constantinople and then big with child, requested to be allowed to visit her father with whom it was her intention to leave her child, and then to return. This he granted. I then requested to be permitted to go with her, that I may see Constantinople, and was refused on account of some fears which he entertained respecting me. I flattered him, however, telling him that I should never appear before her but as his servant and guest, and that he need entertain no fear whatsoever. After this he gave me permission, and I accordingly took my leave. He gave me fifteen hundred dinars, a dress of honour, and several horses. Each of his ladies also gave me some pieces of bouillon silver which they call El Suam, as did also his sons and daughters. I set out accordingly on the tenth of the month Cheval in company with the royal concert by Lune, daughter to the emperor of Constantinople. The sultan accompanied us through the first stage in order to encourage her and then returned. The queen was attended in her journey by five thousand of the king's army, about five hundred of which were cavalry as her servants and followers. In this manner we arrived at Uckok, which is a moderately sized town but excessively cold. Between this place and El Surai which belongs to the sultan there is a distance of ten days. At the distance of one day from this place are the mountains of the Russians, who are Christians, with red hair and blue eyes, and ugly and perfidious people. They have silver mines and from their country is the Suam, the pieces of silver bouillon, brought. With these they buy and sell, each piece weighing five ounces. After ten days' journey from this place we arrived at the city of Sudak, which is one of the cities of the desert of Kifjack and situated on the seashore. After this we arrived at a city known by the name of Baba Saltuk. Saltuk, they say, was a diviner. This is the last district in this direction belonging to the Turks. Between which, however, and the districts of Ruhm is a distance of eighteen days, eight of which are over an inhabited desert without water. But as we entered it during the cold season we did not want much water. CHAPTER XIII Fortress of Matuli, Constantinople, Ceremonies, Kedera Return to Tartary, Astrakhan, El-Sarai, Kevarizim, Sarai-Juk, Bokhara, El-Kate, Wabkhana, Jenghis Khan's origin and progress, Nakshab, Camp of Tamasharin Khan, occurrence at the Mosque, the Yasak or regulations of Jenghis Khan, Semarkand, Nasaf, Tirmid, Bulk, Kuhistan, Harait, Nisabur, Jam, Tuz, Serikaz, Zuba, Bastam, Kundus, Baghtun, Berwan, Hindukush, El-Jark, Biza, Afghans, Kabul, Kirmash, Shishnagar, the Panjab. On the occasion of my preparing to enter this desert I presented myself before the queen and paid my respects to her both in the morning and evening. She received me very graciously and sent to me a good part of every present which then came to her. I then made known to her my want of some horses, and she ordered fifteen to be given to me. After this we arrived at the fortress of Matuli, which is the first in the district's belonging to room, but between which in Constantinople is a distance of two and twenty days. Before this time the news of her approach had reached her father, who sent out ladies and nurses to meet her at this fortress, with a large army. From this place to Constantinople they travel with horses and mules only on account of the unevenness of the roads. She therefore left her carriages behind her. The Amir who attended her husband's troops returned when we had arrived at this place, and she was now attended by her own followers only. At this place I also dismissed my carriages and a number of my attendants and companions, recommending them to the returning party who received and treated them courteously. The queen had with her a mosque which she set up at every stage just as her husband used to do. In this she had daily prayers. She left it, however, at the fortress. After this the office of the mozane ceased. Wine was brought into the banquet and of this she drank. I was also told that she ate swine's flesh with them, nor did one who prayed remain with her. Some, however, of her Turkish servants daily prayed with us. Thus were the tastes changed by entering into the territories of infidelity. The queen, however, ordered the officer who had come out to meet her to pay every attention and respect to me. When we had arrived within a day's journey of the city, her younger brother came out to meet her, accompanied by about five thousand cavalry all in armor. He met her on foot, on account of his being her junior. When she had kissed his head he passed on with her. On the next day her second brother, who is the heir apparent, met her, having with him ten thousand horse. Both parties in this case dismounted, and after they had met they remounted and went on. And at length she approached Constantinople the greatest part of its inhabitants, men, women, and children, came out attired in their best clothes, either walking or riding, beating drums and shouting as they proceeded. The sultan also with his queen, the mother of this lady, attended by the officers of state and nobles came to meet her. When the emperor drew near both the parties mixed, and such was the pressure that it was impossible for me to pass between them, I was therefore obliged at the peril of my life to see to the caring of our lady and her companions. I was told that when she met her parents she alighted and kissed the ground before them, as well as the hoofs of their horses. We entered Constantinople about sunset. They were then ringing their bells at such a rate that the very horizon shook with the noise. When we came to the gate of the emperor the porters refused to admit us without a permission from the emperor. Some of her followers therefore went and told her our case, and she requested permission of her father stating our circumstances to him. We were then allowed to enter, and were lodged in a house adjoining that of our lady who sent our provisions morning and evening. The king also granted us a letter of safe conduct, permitting us to pass wherever we pleased about the city. On the fourth day after our arrival I was introduced to the sultan Tecfer, son of George, king of Constantinople. His father George was still living but had retired from the world, become a monk and given up the kingdom to his son. When I arrived at the fifth gate of the palace, which was guarded by soldiers, I was searched lest I should carry any weapon with me, which is submitted to by every citizen as well as strangers who wishes to be introduced to the king. The same is observed by the emperors of India. I was introduced therefore in dead homage. The emperor was sitting upon his throne with his queen and daughter, Armistras. Her brothers were seated beneath the throne. I was kindly received and asked as to my circumstances in arrival. Also about Jerusalem, the temple of the resurrection, the cradle of Jesus, Bethlehem, and the city of Abraham, or Hebron, then of Damascus, Egypt, Iraq, and the country of Rome, to all of which I gave suitable replies. A Jew was our interpreter. The king was much surprised at my tale and said to his son, let this man be treated honorably and give him a letter of safe conduct. He then put a dress of honor on me in order to saddle horse to be given me, with one of his own umbrellas, which with them is a mark of protection. I then requested that he would appoint someone to write about with me daily into the different quarters of the city that I might see them. He made the appointment accordingly and I wrote about with the officer for some days, witnessing the wonders of the place. Its largest church is that of St. Sophia. I saw its outside only, its interior I could not because just within the door there was a cross, which everyone who entered worshipped. It is said that this church is one of the foundations of Asaph, the son of Barachius, and nephew of Solomon. The church's monasteries and other places of worship within the city are almost innumerable. When it appeared to the church who had accompanied our mistress that she still professed the religion of her father and wished to remain with him, they requested permission to return to their own country which she granted. She also gave them rich presence and appointed persons to accompany them to their homes. She also requested me that she might come in these attendants to me, giving me at the same time three hundred dinars with two hundred dirhams and money, likewise dresses of both woollen and cotton cloth as well as horses on the part of her father. I returned therefore after a stay in Constantinople of one month and six days to the place where I had left my companions, carriages, and other goods, and from this place we traveled upon those carriages until we arrived at Astrakhan where I had formally left the Sultan Mohammed Uzbek Khan. But here I found that he had gone with his court to El Sarai, to which I also proceeded. When I was admitted to his presence he asked me of our journey, of Constantinople and its king of all which I told him. He then reimbursed my traveling expenses as is his usual custom. This city of El Sarai is very handsome and exceedingly large. Of its learned men is the imam, the learned, Numenadine, El Kavarezmi. I met him in this place. He is a man of most liberal disposition, carries himself majestically with the king but humbly with the poor and with his pupils. The Sultan visits him every Friday, sits before him and shows him every kindness while he behaves in the most repulsive manner. I then traveled on to Kavarezmi, between which in this place is a journey of forty days through a desert in which there is but little water and grass. There are carriages in it which are drawn by camels. After ten days I arrived at the city of Saraiju, which is situated upon the banks of a large and full river which they call the Ulusu, or Great Water. Over this is a bridge joining its nearest parts like the bridge of Baghdad. From this place I traveled for three days with all the haste possible and arrived at Kavarezmi. This is the largest city the Turks have and is very much crowded on account of the multitude of its inhabitants. It is subject to the Sultan Uzbek Khan, and is governed on his part by a great Amir who resides within it. I have never seen better bread or more liberal people than the inhabitants of Kavarezmi, or those who are more friendly to strangers. They have a very commendable practice with regard to their worship which is this. When any one absents himself from his place in the mosque, he is beaten by the priests in the presence of the congregation, and moreover find in five dinars which go toward repairing the mosque. In every mosque, therefore, a whip is hung up for this purpose. Without this city is the river Gaihan, one of the four rivers which flow from Paradise. This river, like the Atal, freezes over in the cold season and remains frozen for five months, during which time people travel over it. Without this city also is the grave of the sheikh, Najim Adin the Great, one of the great saints over which there is a cell. Here also is the grave of the very learned Jarallah el-Zamekhshari. Zamekhshar is a village at a distance of four days from Kavarezmi. The prevailing sect at Kavarezmi is that of the schismatics. It's however they keep secret because the Sultan Uzbek is a Sunni. The haven Kavarezmi a melon to which none except that of Bokhara can be compared. The nearest to it is that of Isfahan. Peel of this melon is green, the interior red. It is perfectly sweet and rather hard. Its most remarkable property is that it may be cut in oblong pieces and dried, and then put into a case like a fig and carried to India or China. During dried fruits there is none superior to this. It is occasionally used as a present to their kings. From Kavarezmi I set out for Bokhara, and after a journey of eighteen days through a sandy and uninhabited desert arrived at the city of El-Kat, which is but small, and then at Wabkhana, and then after one stage we came to Bokhara which is the principal city of the country beyond the Gaihan. After it had been ravaged by the Tardars it is almost entirely disappeared. I found no one in it who knew anything of science. It is said that Genghis Khan, who came with the Tardars into the countries of Islamism and destroyed them, was in his outset a blacksmith in the country of Kota. He was a liberal-minded, powerful, and corpulent person. His practice was to assemble and feast the people, who in consequence joined him in considerable numbers and made him their leader. He then conquered the district in which he lived, and with this accession of strength and followers he next subdued the whole country of Kota, then China, after this the countries of Kashak, Kashgar, and Malik. At this time Jalalandin Sanjar, son of Kavarezim Shah, was king of Kavarezim, Khorizan, and Muwara El-Nahar, a powerful and splendid prince. Genghis Khan, on account of an affair which had happened among the merchants and in which some property had been taken, invaded his territories. This is well known. When however Genghis Khan had entered upon the frontiers of Jalalandin's countries, he was met by the king's army, which after some fighting was put to the rout. After this Jalalandin himself met him, and some such battles took place as have never been witnessed among the Mohammedans. In the event, however, Genghis Khan got possession of Muwara El-Nahar, and destroyed Bukhara, Samarkand, and El-Termid. Killed the inhabitants, taking prisoners the youth only and leaving the country quite desolate. He then passed over the Gaihan and took possession of all Khorizan and Iraq, destroying the cities and slaughtering the inhabitants. He then perished having appointed his son, Hulaku, to succeed him. Hulaku, soon after entered Baghdad, destroyed and put to death the Khalif, Omosta Azim, of the House of Abbas and reduced the inhabitants. He then proceeded with his followers to Syria until divine providence put an end to his career. For there he was defeated by the army of Egypt and made prisoner. Thus was their progress in the Mohammedan countries put an end to. The epitometer, Im Jazeel Kelby, states that he has been told by the sheik Ibn El-Haji, who heard it from Abdallah Ibn Roshayd, who had met Nur-Adeen Ibn El-Zajj, one of the learned men of Iraq, with his brother's son in Mecca, and who told him, as they were conversing together, that in the war with the Tardars and Iraq not fewer than four and twenty thousand learned men perished, and that himself and that man, pointing to his brother's son, were the only learned men who had escaped. I next proceeded from Bukhara for the camp of the Sultan al-Adin Tamashireen, and in my way passed by Nakshab, the place to which the patronymic of the sheik Abu Turab el-Nakshabi is referred. From this place I proceeded to the camp of the Sultan, the king of Morara el-Nar. This is a powerful prince, who has at his command a large army and is remarkable for the justice of his laws. The territories of this king occupy a middle station among those of the four great kings of the world, who are the king of China, that of India, that of Iraq, that of the Turks, Muhammad Uzbek Khan, all of whom send presence to him, give him the place of honor and very highly respect him. He succeeded to the kingdom after his brother Jagatai, who was an infidel, and had succeeded to his elder brother, Kobak, who was also an infidel. He was nevertheless just, and much attached to the Muhammadans to whom he paid great respect. It is said that this king Kobak was one day talking with the doctor and preacher Badr al-Adin al-Midani. When he said to him, you say that God has left nothing unmentioned in his book. The preacher replied, it is even so. Show me then, said he, where my name is to be found. The reply was, in the passage, in which form he pleased hath he fashioned thee. This astonished him. And he said, Bakshi, that is well done. I spent some days in the camp of Tamashiran. Upon a certain day, however, I went to the mosque which was in the camp, the camp they call the Urdu, for I had heard that the sultan was to be in the mosque. When the service was ended I approached in order to pay my respects to him, as he had heard of my arrival. He was pleased with me and treated me very respectfully. After this he sent for me. I went to him and found him in his tent, and there paid my respects to him. He then asked me of Mecca, Medina, Jerusalem, Damascus, and Egypt, as also of El Malik, El Nasir, the kings of Iraq and Persia, to all of which I gave suitable answers and received marks of distinctions. One of the odd things that happened respecting him was that once when the hour of prayer had arrived, and the people were assembled in the mosque, the sultan delayed. One of his young men coming in said to the priest, HaSama Dean El Yagi, the sultan wishes you to wait a little. Upon this the priest got up and said, I ask, are prayers had here for the sake of God, or of Tamashiran? He then ordered the mosaic to proclaim the prayers. So the sultan came in after two prostrations had been performed and went through his prayers at the extremity of the part in which the people stand, and which is near the door of the mosque where they usually leave their mules, and there went through what he had missed. He then came and seized the hand of the priest who laughed heartily at him. He then sat down in the oratory, the priest by his side and I by the side of the priest. He then addressed me, when said he you go back to your own country, say that a doctor of the Persian sat thus with the sultan of the Turks, that a poor man of the poor of the Persians thus did with the sultan of the Turks. This priest it was who succeeded in reducing the king to the observance of all the positive and negative commandments. The sultan very much respected, loved, and obeyed him. But the sheik accepted of no gifts from the king nor did he eat anything but what he acquired by the labor of his own hands. This king, when I wished to travel on, provided me with seven hundred dinars for my journey. We broke up our intercourse, therefore, and I set out accordingly. This tarmasherine, it may be remark, had broken some of the statutes of his grandfather Genghis Khan, who had published a book entitled, El Yazaq, The Prohibition, which enacted that whosoever should oppose any one of these statutes should be put out of office. Now one of the statutes was this, that the descendants of Genghis, the governors of the several districts, the wives of the nobles, and the general officers of the army, should assemble upon a certain day in the year which they call El Tawah, the feast, and that should the emperor have altered any one of these statutes the nobles should stand up and say, Thou hast done so and so upon such and such a day, and has made an alteration in the statutes of El Yazaq, that which was not to be changed, and therefore thy deposition is a necessary consequence. They are then to take him by the hand and remove him from the throne and to place in it another of the descendants of Genghis Khan, and should any one of the nobles have committed any crime he is to be duly adjudged on this occasion. Now Tawah Shireen had entirely abolished the observance of this day which gave very great offense. Some time therefore after we had left the country the Tartars together with their nobles assembled and deposed him, appointing for a successor one of his relations, and to such an extent was the matter pressed that Tawah Shireen took to flight and was put to death. I then proceeded to Samarkand, which is a very large and beautiful city. Without it is the tomb of Kotam, the son of a boss who was martyred on the day the city was taken. After this I arrived at the city of Nassaf, to which the patronymic of Abu Jafar Omar el-Nassafi is referred. I then went on to the city of Termid, to which is referred the patronymic of Abu Issa Muhammad el-Termidi, author of the Jamia el-Kabir. This is a large and beautiful city abounding with trees and water. We then passed over the Gaihan into Khorasan, and after a journey of a day and a half over a sandy desert in which there was no house, we arrived at the city of Bulk, which now lies in ruins. It has not been rebuilt since its destruction by the cursed Genghis Khan. The situation of its buildings is not very discernible although its extent may be traced. It is now in ruins and without society. Its mosque was one of the largest enhancements in the world. Its pillars were incomparable, three of which were destroyed by Genghis Khan because it had been told him that the wealth of the mosque lay concealed under them, provided as a fund for its repairs. When however he had destroyed them nothing of the kind was to be found, the rest therefore he left as they were. The story about this treasure arose from the following circumstance. It is said that one of the caliphs of the house of Abbas was very much enraged at the inhabitants of Bulk on account of some accident which had happened, and on this account sent a person to collect a heavy fine from them. Upon this occasion the women and children of the city betook themselves to the wife of their then governor, who out of her own money built this mosque, and to her they made a grievous complaint. She accordingly sent to the officer who had been commissioned to collect the fine to robe very richly embroidered and adorned with jewels, much greater in value than the amount of the fine imposed. This she requested might be sent to the caliph as a present from herself, to be accepted instead of the fine. The officer accordingly took the robe and sent it to the caliph, who, when he saw it, was surprised at her liberality and said, This woman must not be allowed to exceed myself in generosity. He then sent back the robe and remitted the fine. When the robe was returned to her she asked whether a look of the caliph had fallen upon it. And being told that it had, she replied, No robe shall ever come upon me upon which the look of any man except my own husband has fallen. She then ordered it to be cut up and sold, and with the price of it she built the mosque with the cell and structure in the front of it. Still from the price of the robe there remained a third which she commanded to be buried under one of its pillars in order to meet any future expenses which might be necessary for its repairs. From Genghis Khan's hearing this story he ordered these pillars to be destroyed, but as already remarked he found nothing. In the front of the city is, as it is reported, the tomb of Akasha Ibn Mosin el-Sahabi, who according to what is related in the Atar, a book so-called, entered paradise without rendering up an account of his deeds. After this I traveled from Balkh for seven days on the mountains of Qustan, which consist of villages closely built. In these there are many cells of religious and others who have retired from the world. I next came to the city of Harat, which is the largest inhabited city in Corazon. Of the large cities of this district there are four. Two of these are now inhabited, namely Harat and Nisabur, and two in ruins, namely Balkh and Marah. The inhabitants of Harat are religious, sincere and chaste, and they are of the sect of Hanifa. The king of Harat was at this time the Sultan, the great Hussain, son of the Sultan Giyath Adin el-Ghari, a man of tried valor. From Harat I went to Jamh, which is a moderate-sized city abounding with water and plantations. From this place I went to Tuss, one of the largest cities of Corazon. In this the Imam Abu Hamid el-Ghazali was born, and in it we still find his tomb. From this place I went to the meshed of El-Riza, of Ali ibn Musa el-Kazim, son of Jafar Sadiq. It is a large and well-peopled city, abounding with fruits. Over the meshed is a large dome adorned with a covering of silk and golden candlesticks. Under the dome and opposite to the tomb of El-Riza is the grave of the Khalif Harun al-Shid. Over this they constantly place candlesticks with lights. But when the followers of Ali enter his pilgrims they kick the grave of El-Rushid but pour out their benedictions over that of El-Riza. From this place I went to the city of Sarakaz, then to Zayva, the town of the sheikh Qatbi Adin Hadar, from which the fakirs of the sect called the Hadaria take their name. These men place an iron ring on their hands and their necks. And what is still more strange, on their verilya, in order to prevent intercourse with women. From this place I went to Nisibur, one of the four principal cities of Khorasan. It is also called the Little Damascus on account of the abundance of its fruits. The city is handsome and is intersected by four rivers. I met here the sheikh Qatbi Adin El-Nisiburi, a learned and accomplished preacher, and he took me to his house. It happened that I had purchased a slave. The sheikh said to me, sell him, for he will not suit you, and I sold him accordingly. I was told after a few days that this slave had killed some Turkish children and had been executed in consequence. This was one of the sheikh's great miracles. From this place I proceeded to Bastam, the town to which the patronymic of Abel Yazid El-Bastami is referred. His grave is also here under the same dome with that of one of the sands of Jafar Sadiq. I next proceeded to Kunduz and Baglan, which are villages with cultivated lands adjoining each other. In each of these is a cell for the saned and recluse. The land is green and flourishing, and its grass never withers. In these places I remain for some time for the purpose of pasturing and refreshing my beasts. After this I proceeded to the city of Barwan, in the road to which is a high mountain covered with snow and exceedingly cold. They call it the Hindu Kush. i.e., Hindu slayer, because most of the slaves brought thither, from India, die on account of the intenseness of the cold. After this we passed another mountain which is called Bashai. In this mountain there is a cell inhabited by an old man whom they call Atta Avila, that is the father of the saints. It is said that he is 350 years old. When I saw him he appeared to be about 50 years old. The people of these parts, however, very much love and revere him. I looked at his body. It was moist and I never saw one more soft. He told me that every hundredth year he had a new growth of hair and teeth independently of the first, and that he was the Raja Abba Rahim Ratan of India, who had been buried at Multan, in the province of Sindhya. I asked him of several things but very much doubted as to what he was, and do so still. I next arrived at the city of Barwan. In this place I met the Turkish Amir Barunte, the largest and fattest man I had ever seen. He treated me very respectfully and gave me some provisions. I then went on to the village of El-Jark and thanks to Gizna, the city of the warrior of the faith and against India the victorious Mahmud, son of Subhukh Tagheen. His grave is here. The place is exceedingly cold. It is ten stages distant from Kandahar. It was once a large city but is now mostly in ruins. I then went on to Kabul which was once a large city but is now for the most part in ruins. It is inhabited by a people from Persia whom they call the Afghans. Their mountains are difficult of access, having narrow passes. These are a powerful and violent people and the greater part of them highway robbers. Their largest mountain is called the Mountain of Solomon. It is said that when Solomon had ascended this mountain and was approaching India from it and saw that it was an oppressive country, he returned refusing to enter it. The mountain was therefore called after his name. Upon this the king of the Afghans reside. We next left Kabul by the way of Kirmash which is a narrow pass situated between two mountains in which the Afghans commit their robberies. We thank God escaped by plying them with arrows upon the heights throughout the whole of the way. The next place we arrived at was Shishnagar, which is situated at the extremity of the Turkish dominions. From this place we entered the great desert which is fifteen days in extent. In this no one can travel except in one season out of the four on account of the Samoom, by which putrefaction takes place and the body as soon as dead falls to pieces in its several members. We got to the Panjab, i.e. the five waters, in safety. This is the junction of five different rivers in which waters all the agriculture of the district. We were comfortable enough when we got on the river which happened in the beginning of the month of Moharam, A.H. 734, A.D. 1332. From this place the informers wrote of our arrival to the court of the emperor of India. It is accustomed with them that everyone who enters India with a wish to see the emperor must be described in writing from this place stating the particulars of his person and the objects he has in view, which is sent off by courier, for no one is allowed to appear at court unless the emperor has been previously acquainted with all the circumstances of his case.