 What's up guys, welcome to today's video. So guess what, today we're gonna work on a shorter haircut shape. Now, the cool thing about today's video is I really don't think I've done a haircut really like this before. So it's got some hard lines in it. The outer perimeter really strong and then there's a ton of texture throughout the top and the sides. So that's pretty cool. The second thing is that we're working with some old highlights. So this is really a salon reality type situation where you have your customer come in. Maybe they're going a little bit shorter with their hair. They've got some old highlights. So there's multiple things happening within this. So what I think is gonna benefit you guys the most is the fact that we're gonna cut the shape. And then I'm gonna show you guys I'm gonna put a demi permanent hair color over top of it. A deeper level kind of a chocolate brown which is gonna help define those lines. Now I know that blonde hair looks really good with defined lines but I really love the pop and dark hair especially depth underneath some highlights through the top when you have those really sharp lines in the haircut. So again, like multiple things are happening within this technique that you can definitely use in the salon even if it's just using one technique maybe just using the demi color, taking somebody shorter. Maybe you like the way I layer the hair. So understand that these videos that I put out are not about you doing the technique exactly the way that I did it. You can but that doesn't mean it's gonna fit on your guests. So utilizing all of these different techniques and putting them into every haircut that you do or every hair color you do or just any guests that you do in the salon that's what's going to take you further. It's gonna make you more efficient in the salon. It's gonna make it easier to make money in the salon. So all of these things really just benefit you. So I can't wait to show you guys this technique. I can't wait to walk you through it. If you have any questions, please post them in the comments below. I love reading your comments anyways. So even if you don't have a question please post that below as well. I love reading your thoughts on the video and what you guys wanna see in future videos. Let me know that as well because you know we're recording them constantly so I always look at what do you guys wanna see? What can I put next in the video that is most helpful for you guys because if I'm not putting out what you guys wanna see there's kind of no point in doing this, right? All right guys, so let's get started. Here we go. All right guys so we're gonna start off by sectioning the mannequin now. This sectioning technique is just like if you were gonna try to find the part in the front of the head. But what I do is I comb from ear to ear and I figure out where that hair wants to fall backwards and where it wants to lay forward. And what that's gonna do for me is that in this cut as I go through and I'm cutting it I'm really getting that I'm cutting the hair where it wants to live basically. So dividing front and back and then I go diagonal back following the hairline and cutting straight out from the head. So we're gonna create some layering in this haircut and just work our way all the way up through the back. Now we're working with the traveling guide and what that means is that every new section that I bring I bring it back to the previous and then that allows me to kind of work my way up the head shape and not building up too much weight within the haircut. Now the weight is going to come from as I work up the head because the head shape starts to kind of curve away that will change the angle that I'm holding the hair. So unless I kept continuing to follow up and pulling everything straight out I want to utilize the head shape in a way of allowing it to dictate how that weight's gonna react. Now, if somebody had super thick hair then I might change that I might elevate it a little bit higher up the head shape than I would if somebody has medium to fine hair because it depends on where you want that weight line to sit really so you can see that now my elevation is much lower it's not straight out from the head because now I'm starting to build that weight line. So I want you guys to think about this when you're cutting hair in the salon I want you to think about as you're working up the head shape where do you want that weight line to start and it's easy to start putting in a weight line because as soon as you drop below 90 degrees or straight out from the head as soon as you drop below that you start to build up that weight so that's where you're gonna start building the weight line so look at the head shape understand where you want that weight to sit then once you start putting in your weight line the great thing about it is you can decide how heavy you want that weight to be now start putting in your weight line and then that dictates the elevation so if you want a much heavier shape then just keep your elevation nice and low from that weight line on keep over directing everything to that point if you want it to be a little bit lighter then elevate it slightly as you work but still keep it at a graduation or below 90 degrees so that you are building up weight hope that makes sense I hope when you're working in the salon you can think about it that way now I continue the same thing on the opposite side following the head shape everything 90 degrees straight out from the head not building up weight at the beginning and then as the head shape starts to move away that's where I'm building up that weight but you can see my fingers are following the hairline following the head shape and that's gonna give me no corners in the haircut which is what I'm looking for and then also nice and light and layered feel that I'm looking for as well so notice that I comb the hair back in the direction that I'm gonna take my parting that's a key thing people that struggle with getting clean sections and in my classes people are always talking about how clean it looks when you're combing through and parting it really is pushing the hair in the direction you want it to go first just like we did at the very beginning like we're doing now comb that hair in that direction now see I comb it down because I wanna see how the hair is laying then before I take my parting I comb it in the direction I'm gonna part so I'll comb it kind of diagonal back and then I take my parting and now you can see lower elevation building up that weight in the back right around the crown area so finishing it up basically what happens in the top is a crisscross effect so your heaviest point's gonna be in the very center of the crown in the low crown area so now this parting is following the hairline as well kind of following the head shape a lot of times this is something that I've been playing around with a little bit a lot of times I would take a straight line across parietal ridge but parietal ridge really has kind of a bend and move to it a bit so just doing a curved line and then that's where I'm gonna work off of the head shape there and I'm gonna start cutting what we can call concave layering or a collapsed layer a little bit to me all layers are collapsed so we'll call it concave because I think you guys can relate to it it's a little bit more of a scooped motion but for the most part it's just a layer a nice collapsed layer in there and what I'm doing is I'm preserving length right now because I'm gonna go in and cut a blunt line so what I wanted to do is remove the weight from the top of this section and then push weight down to the cheekbone area because I'm gonna go in and cut my blunt line there so I wanna have that density so that when I go in and I cut that blunt line it looks nice it looks nice and full so you can see that extra length that's happened that's all from not only elevating high but over directing back to the ear and I'm gonna show you guys the same thing here just know that we're over directing everything stationary guide for the most part in the very back so right here is where my guide is gonna come from I'm deciding what I want that length to look like I'm not taking it from the back at all I'm cutting a new length at this point you don't always have to connect everything you can always soften it and go into it in the dry cut so notice that everything is being pulled back that's my over direction and that's gonna push a ton of length and density towards the front so you can see the layering part of this isn't super extreme just slightly elevating it making sure that I get a layered effect so now same kind of situation almost from Pridal Ridge over I comb the hair and then I part the hair that wants to fall forward that's what I'm gonna cut a lot of people struggle with where to part or where to separate the front of the head when they're cutting bangs that's a great way to do it comb the hair kind of over and then see where it wants to fall and all that hair that wants to fall forward that's what you can add into your bangs when you go to cut this I'm gonna also work off of a stationary guide and I'm also gonna cut a blunt line in the front of this as well so you can see kind of some weak edges there but we're gonna cut that blunt in the dry cut so I just keep over directing everything over following the head shape with this line so it's nice 90 degree layers around the front fringe area and I just keep over directing it something I always think about when I'm cutting bangs is I go to the edge of the eyebrow and that's about where I stop even sometimes a little bit before that depending on the density right in that kind of recession area so obviously mannequins don't have any kind of like strong recession area so I stop pretty much at the edge of the eyebrow on this and you can see that angle that we're creating it's all based on over direction so anytime you wanna push length and density just over direct it to a stationary guide and you'll get that length if you travel across the front you get more of a straight kind of curved line that would follow the head shape so now we're gonna work on the top so we did the whole fringe area now the top's gonna be a more scooped effect to push length to the front but I'm also over directing everything so that's why I'm showing you the top angle notice I make my parting and then I over direct it to me so again stationary guide we're working a lot of stationary guides in the front part of this haircut so just over directing everything over but cutting short to long pushing that length into the front so what I wanted to kind of create with this cut was to have those short layers in that kind of fun fringe area but then to have the longer pieces fall over top of it and have that texture built into it so I wanted to create really fun textured cut but with a lot of precision to it now I'm gonna go in with the Palmichel Invisible Wear Velvet Cream this is a new product in their Invisible Wear line I love this product because it makes the hair super soft gives it like a satin finish so definitely if you like a lightweight polish on your blow dries especially for dry cutting I don't want anything hard or harsh in the last field cause I'm gonna do a lot of dry cutting in this so I go in also using the Palmichel Pro Tools blow dryer and iron to work that finish now understand that as I go through and I'm blow drying and ironing I do a flat wrap technique to get the hair nice and smooth following the head shape and then I go in with the iron and I follow the head shape as well so I'm not straightening the hair what I'm doing is just smoothing it and getting it to kind of flow with the head shape so you can see how it just kind of hugs the head shape in there that's what that flat wrap and the iron work does so now it makes it really pleasurable to go in and cut it dry and every cut that you make it doesn't stick out or go weird where if you do like a round brush blow dryer or something like that sometimes the hair can kind of shoot out on you so now to do the fringe I go through and I just start to cut a curved line this is more of an artistic feel this isn't necessarily what you would have to do in this cut you could even leave it the way it was it would lay nice and soft but I wanted to cut this nice kind of hard curved line that goes across from one eye kind of opens up the one eye and then showcases a little bit of the other eye but it's not fully visible, right? and I work that line right to the cheekbone and then I'm going to take up those kind of this part now that you're looking at here I kind of balance my comb what I'm really doing is trying to find my line so I'm trying to figure out what's going to look best what I wanted to do is just shift my comb so that angle goes from the back of the ear and then it works its way right to the edge of the mouth that's where I kind of wanted that line to sit because I felt like that would enhance not only her jawline but just kind of bring out those features then you could see the longer hair that textured hair that we cut before how it brings that to life when you have that precision cut underneath it so doing the same thing holding the comb in the direction I want it to go I get that length off then I go in with the tip of the scissor and I go through and I cut now when you're trying to define a line using the tip of the scissor is really key because it doesn't push the hair too much and then once you get the length that you're looking for then I go in with the flat blade and that really defines that line and makes it nice and solid and so that's kind of the tip with that so now I wanted to bring in kind of open up the face just a little bit more so I tuck just with the point of my scissor I tuck in a little bit more of that hair opens everything up and then I go through and do a little bit of point cutting we did all that over direction to that traveling guide so you can see that angle starts short to long both horizontally and vertically so you can see that just over directing that pushes that length to the right side and keeps it nice and short and textured on the left side so I just go through, fan it out and then point cut through it so you guys can see all the texture all the movement that we created but also having that precision feel just love the look of it now what I want to do is I want to recycle those old highlights so I'm going to put on Paul Mitchell the Demi 5N equal parts with processing liquid and I'm going to saturate that from scalp to ends and then I'll show you guys the end result when I get done applying alright so now that we're done applying we're going to process that for 25 minutes and then you can see the chocolate beautiful color and cut that we've created here recycling those old highlights adding some precision cutting adding some texture finishing it up with the invisible wear undone texture hairspray so hope you guys like this end result let me know in the comments below can't wait to hear what you think alright guys and like always if you liked this video you like the cut you like the color let me know post in the comments below what you want to see next make sure you subscribe and I will see you guys on the next video thanks