 Hey, what's up everybody? Welcome back to another 3D Hangouts. Spooky episode of 3D Hangouts. My name is Noy Roez. I'm a designer at Adafruit. Joining me every week is my brother Pedro, also a designer. Good morning everybody. Craig Tech here at Adafruit. Now every week we're here to share three print projects featuring electronics from Adafruit. That's right. This is where we combine 3D printing and Spooky electronics to make inspirational projects. Hello everybody hanging out in the Discord chat room. If you'd like to join us during the live show, we are hanging out in the Discord chat room. We'll take some shoutouts, questions, comments, and we like GIFs, GIFs, memes. Those are always fun. That is on over at Discord.gg slash Adafruit. Yeah, that's true. Everybody give us some ghost icons and some spooky emojis. Yes, we have a fun, glowy, Spooky show planned for everybody. And yeah, we'll take some shoutouts. Everybody hanging out. We've got DJ Devon hanging out in the Discord chat room. Deweyster, hello, hello. Paul Kotler. Good morning. Also hanging out in the YouTube chat. Twitch on Facebook on Periscope. Shoutouts to Sean over on YouTube on Twitch and on Facebook. Good morning, good evening, good afternoon to everybody hanging out all over the world. Yeah, feel free to let us know if all the audio cuts out at any point because we had some little issues as normal. Spooky, you know, ghost in the machine type stuff. Every time you have a high power draw, it takes the mic away. Yeah, yep, yep, yep. Even though it's power, it's a self-powered, it's powered well. Anyway, let's run through the show. We got some spooky ghosts. Yes, it's the best time of the year. Yeah, I like it. Oh, I like that a bit. Yeah, that's fun. I don't know if it animates when I... Anyway, Spooky coffee, pumpkin spice. Oh, this only works if I'm left-handed. And it's spooky cold. Dang it. All right, let's go ahead and do the... Oh, I forgot the name of it. The housekeeping. Housekeeping. It's fine. All right, we're going to head over to Adafruit.com slash free. Find out all the latest deals. And here's what we got. If you order, if your order is $99 or more, you get a free half-size permaproto. Love that board. And if you spend $149 or more, you get the half-size permaproto plus the KB2040. If you spend $200 or more, you get the KB2040, the permaproto half-size, and ground shipping for continental U.S. only. That's free shipping. And if you spend $299 or more, you get the ground shipping, the KB2040, the half-size permaproto, and the blue fruit circuit playground. So those are all great. And those got automatically added to your cart so you don't need any coupons or anything like that. So yeah, check those out. If you want more details, Adafruit.com slash free. Next up, we'll hit up the jobs board at jobs.adafruit.com. Find out all the latest gigs that are available. If you are looking for some folks to help you with your project, you can also post up positions. And if you are a maker, you can make your own profile so people can kind of search. So check those out at jobs.adafruit.com. It's Halloween in a few days. Monday. On Monday. And we got lots of fun projects, learn guides, blog posts, gift ideas. The gift guides are really, really awesome. So check those out. Just hit up the blog and check them out. Lots of happenings. Lots of spooky happenings. And all, I think since September, I've been posting all of the Halloween projects we've done over the years. So any inspirations, check that out, or search Halloween in the learn system. Mm-hmm. Cool. Every project can be a Halloween project. Just about. That's true. All right. So, oh, I got a, I'm not done with the things. We can check out the newsletters. There's a once a week newsletter that's focused on products. You go to adafruit.com slash newsletter. You can also check out the newsletter site, adafruitdaily.com where you can subscribe to different categories of newsletters that are on the daily. Some of them are on the weekly. Some of them are on the monthly. Shout out to Amber Ella and everybody who subscribed to the Python and Microcontrollers newsletter. We're probably closer to 300. I don't know how this one is, but yeah, very, very fun. Great way to showcase projects from the community and just what's kind of happening in the world of Python. You can check out the Circuit Python Show podcast hosted by Paul Cutler. You can search in your favorite podcast service, check out the archives, or just go to the website. And back over to the Discord. We are ready to show the project if you want to just jump right into it. Oh, this is great. All right. Hey, what's up folks? I'm not kidding you about the spookiness. It is spooky stuff going on here. Yeah, we'll give everybody a minute for all the streams to kind of catch up. All right, purified. We are back. Yay. We'll probably go down again because there's still some weird power. I will keep this headphone in my ear. Yes, thank you. That's why I've been talking very fast because I knew that things are going to happen. So neon signs, right? These Neopixel mini skinny strips are really fun. They have these built-in, you know, diffusers. And I learned quite a bit of stuff by kind of cutting them and spicing them and trying to create these more intricate designs because the signs that we did, you know, back in May, it happened again? No, you're not okay. Back in May, we're just simple, no like splicing involved. So this one was really heavy on the let's make different elements and splicing together. So the signs are kind of big and they require a fairly large bed 3D printer. We're looking at 300 millimeters by 300 millimeters or 10 inch by 10 inch beds, which is what we're really fond of. We really, really enjoy our 3D printers. We can print big things and you're going to need a big printer. So they look small because there's a distance here but here's my hand just to give you an idea of that. Here's our little groomer. So we came up with three different signs. The green reaper with the scythe, the werewolf howling at the moon, and the hipster ghost, not a hitchhiker ghost. A hipster ghost, there's always my way. I had to do that. Oh, that high way. So yeah, it was a lot of fun. So let's talk about how this one set up here. So let's take a look at the Neopixel strips themselves. So these are, this is like a little sliver, a little piece of the Neopixel strip. And what I've learned is that you want to, you'll notice that there's edges that are different. This one has just nothing here and then this one has a little bit of a clear window. You want to use that clear window to indicate where the cutoff points are for your Neopixel strips. And oddly enough, here's one without the sheathing and you'll notice that it's every three pixels that has these pads. If you ever worked with Neopixels before, you know the three pads here, you get them both sided. But here, normally they let you do every single pixel. You can get really precise segments. But this one, however, is very different, unique. So what I recommend is taking a look at the data sheet. So let's take a look at the Adafruit blog. We're going to go in a tunnel real quick, but I'll get ourselves out of it. If I'm fast enough, almost there. So here's the products that are in stock. So you get a meter long, that's 96 LEDs per meter. And they come kind of like this. They have connectors on both ends. And the guide that we'll walk through shows you how to kind of cut those and remove them, best practices for those. So yeah, there's a data sheet. Scroll down, there's a nice link to the data sheet. And I really, really like this data sheet. It gives you an exact outline dimensions of the segments that have the kind of cuts there. So that's a really, really good thing. I think if I were to redesign these, I would consider where my cutoff points would be. In the CAD stuff. But yeah, these are great data sheets. And you can find all about the stuff with these NeoPixel strips. Yeah, I'm trying, I'm trying. So a quick comment. George from Devon3D says every three pad with some because the controller chip only shows up every three pixels, common with some of the S28. I want two B strips. Excellent, cool. Now, one of the things I learned is that you never want to cut the sheeting on this side, the white side here, because you'll end up, you might reveal the NeoPixel there and that's going to kind of mess up the sun or the light is going to have a real hot spot there. So you really want to just focus on cutting and revealing the pads on this side. So this is just like a mistake here. But I figure I'll let you folks know about it. Yeah, be very, very careful with them. I've ripped off some of these pads as well. So be very, very careful when you're handling them. Hot glue works really well for strain relief. And if I had more time, I would add hot glue. Hot glue, hot glue to these edges here. Because yeah, I highly recommend silicone. Silicone cover stranded wire because it's very, very flexible and it's less likely to kind of break off. So I've been handling these a bunch and thankfully these haven't ripped off yet. So what I ended up doing was kind of combining the ground to ground for these individual strips and then voltage to voltage and then using a USB extension cable that I cut off the connectors. That way you can just use one long wire instead of having two separate cables come out into your microcontroller. So that's why I recommend that heat shrink tubing is one of those things where you like, oh, I wish I added it first. So I can't recommend enough adding heat shrink tubing before you solder stuff. There's a meme out there I think about the adding heat shrink tubing but I wish I add more because like I'd really like to kind of get these here. Wire lengths are very important as well if you want to hide your wire links and stuff. I was able to kind of use this data out going into this data in here and I ended up working okay. I was able to kind of wrap actions over here. I was able to kind of wrap this around and that worked really well and because the silicone stranded wire, silicone, they're grippy and they kind of grip to the edges of these 3D printed signs. One thing I learned with the 3D printed signs is you want to add supports, meaning like, look how floppy this is. Yeah, if these weren't here, this would just be free-floating and it won't work. So if I were to do this again, I'd probably add another support being to connect this to that. I also added, these are very important here to integrate the hook loops for hanging them up on various surfaces. I mean I recommend the 3M hooks so I designed it so that these fit in here like that and then these are removable adhesives. One side is for the actual sign, plastic and the other sign is like meant for drywall. What kind of paint, vinyl paint or whatever that paints for the walls, it works really well so you can just kind of like remove it by just like using this tab here and like pulling it off. So that's kind of like a little answering everything but I had to figure out about these hooks. I don't really cover that in the guide but I'm sure folks know about these. They're very common these days. So that's just a bit of a nutshell of some of the things I learned when making these signs. The major thing though however that was very troubling is that the bend radius, bending these things, you cannot make a very sharp bend. So just keep that in mind. The more you bend it, the more likely you are to kind of break your pad, your strip. So be very, very cautious of that. I was very, you know, moderate with the bend radiuses on all these so they ended up working okay. The hardest one to design in my opinion was the wolf, the werewolf. That went through three or four different iterations because I just didn't have, like my corners were just too tight. So, you know, take that as a bit of a tip is just try to make a shape that's very, very open and free flowing. The ghost was like the best one to do because I had, it's all just curves. So it worked out really well for the new pixel strip. So kind of limiting but this is one of the design constraints that you got to consider if you're making one of these signs or at least designing them. Yeah, I think in a nutshell it's pretty good. Audio is still running. It's great. Everything a little bit is good and with a good tip from DJ Devin saying that the E-Shrink tube actually comes in a roll so you can get that one size specific to the size you need. It's a great value. On the hunt for that roll. I'm going to get, because I get these pre-cut ones and I don't like using them. Yes, I know we always have to throw away a whole kit because I'm not going to use these ones. I just want one. Yeah, I just want one size. But like for this, this ended up being okay. So that's the sign in a nutshell. Each one has its own challenges and kind of weirdness to it but that's kind of in a nutshell all the things supports, hook, and just your band radiuses. I thought it'd be fun to 3D print a snap fit case that's in the shape of a coffin. So it's a three piece set and when I open this up you're going to be scared. What happened to the cutie pie? I ran out of them. So I used the Pico. It's a five dollar board. Well, what's cool about it when you use perma proto boards like this small mint proto boards you can just add socket headers. So you can just pop this out. Boy, those 40 pens are nuts. And I'm using the short socket headers so that they're nice and short. But I really like the small mint perma proto board. It has lots of power and ground rails. You run out of those quickly if you're using the cutie pie or a feather. But there are, you know, ground pins here but I really like using the power and ground rails. So on the bottom of this is those, you can't see it here, but there's two wires that are connecting one of these power and ground rails to, you know, the power and ground rails. I'm using this connector here. It's a four pin JSD connector. The wiring gauge is important here. They're thicker wires because you got lots of current coming to these power hungry pixels. So that's why we're using one of these chunkier JSD cables. But this is great because I can disconnect it and, you know, thread this if I need to. When I filmed the project video, I kind of integrated it into this kind of frame thing. And I was able to kind of, because this wasn't soldered directly, I was able to disconnect it and thread it through some of the framing. So that worked out really well. It's a snap fit case. So three pieces. You got this frame that has some slots here for the USB connector and for the wire to pass through. The top cover doesn't have much to it. Just has this little detail that looks nice. If you want to get these really cool stellar textures on the bottom of your 3D prints, you can get a powder coated bed, which is really nice. It gives you that lovely texture. And if you use glitter filament, it kind of glistens and stuff. So really, really cool. Looks great. Yeah. So it's not fits together. And then I have built-in standoffs to the bottom cover. Four of them. I really, really like this Promo Proto board because Feather and the Pico or Pico and the QT-Pies can all fit in here. I got some M3 screws and some hex nuts that just secure that to the board. And yeah, it's a great kind of modular system. And I'm glad I used and designed this bottom cover for the Promo Proto board because now I can add any board to this that's this format with the spacing and all that. Mr. Certainly, Bruce has a request. Sure. A guitar pedal that is in the shape of that coffin. That'd be super cool. Yeah. More coffin shapes. More coffin projects. DJ Davis has a good tip on the Promo Proto. I didn't know the Pico could fit on that. Now we do have a specific cowbeller Proto for the Pico. It has the two Stemma QTs on each side. It has the power rail. Careful now. Careful. Mounting holes are a very important thing. And that does not have mounting holes. So that's one of the things that your Promo Proto's have mounting holes. And this one has four of them, which is great. And it's more universal. The Feather, all the other stuff's going to fit on there. This one is mostly for the Pico, like with the reset button that's on there. He's coming to pack a three. So that's really great. I recommend picking up your three pack. And they're awesome, man. They're three-hole plated. They have numbers and labels on them. They're really nice, man. I like them. I'm going to use them for all the projects. Because I keep running into this where I run out of a board and I need to pop it out and pop on the new one. And yeah, that's becoming the theme here. Make it monitor. You'll notice all these slots here. This is just for if you want to mount this to a wall, to a piece of wood, something else. That's why I always try to add slots. Because if it didn't have any slots, then how would you stick, I guess, a sticker or something like double-sided tape or something? But I really am a fan of using slots and an arrangement of them so you can mount it in also different ways. Printing wise, too. Optimizes a little bit on the printing time, too. Not having to print an entire solid bottom. Yeah, I'll save you like 10 minutes of printing. So I like that. And ventilation holes, too, for heat. Yeah. Which could be a good or bad thing, depending on where this is going to live. You know, wire cable colors is also a thing to consider. I really don't like the look of the black wire against the high contrast white wall. But then again, the ghost one has, I was able to salvage one of the older iPod cables. I was able to cut that up and it's white and it's a little bit thinner. So it kind of worked out. So depending on where you want to print it, maybe consider your filament color as well. Do you want to go with a dark color? Do you want to do the white color to kind of blend in with your background? Or maybe a glass window or something? But anyway, that's the case. I like it. And it's fairly large. You'd probably fit a bigger board. Probably not a metro, but it could rescale it, I guess, because it is parametric. And you know, standard snaps. Everything snaps there. Screws are just to secure the board. But easy enough to open this up again. And pretty cool. Or as it's shown in the product image, it fits in a Altoids small tin case. Yes, it does. Isn't that cool? I miss Altoids. Yeah. Oh, and then it's it from DGDevance. And you can get the cord covers for the walls. I don't know no matter what color the cables are. That's a great idea. All good, fine ideas. Yeah, for sure. So yeah, we can quickly look at the learn guide and we'll just kind of run through it. Because I'm trying to keep this under half hour, so we have plenty of time for all the things. But we got everything in stock, which is great. Oh, amazing. Amazing. That's great. Let's see some of the ancillary stuff. JST cables, those are all in stock. Ribbon cable and I think that's it. Yeah, the female headers. I really like these, what is it? 36 pin female headers here. And you can just snap them off. Boy, I can't quite get a good lock on this link. I'm trying to do right click, open a new tab, but it's there we go. These are real easy to cut. You can use flush diagonal cutters. They're short, so you get a nice low profile. I really like these. And I got myself a pack of them and I'm still using them. So it's great. So you can create your own custom female header things, socket headers. And the male headers, header pins, those come with the Pico, I think. Maybe they don't. But they do come with any of the ancillary boards. Yeah, that's cool. Yeah, some PIDs for that. One with, one without. All right, next up is circuit diagram, how to wire these up. It's basically two strips. Each strip gets a data pin. And in the circuit Python code, you just create two objects. We'll run through it. But that's the best of it. You can pick whatever data pin and just make sure that in the code, you have that data pin. So you can change this up if it's a closer proximity to where you want it to be or whatever. So, yeah, let's see. Circuit Python, installing Circuit Python in the QTpy. We got a nice page that shows you how to kind of do the song and dance to install your drag and drop that you have to file. And it kind of flashes itself, which is really nice. And that's the part of Circuit Python. All right, so here's the code. It's using the LED animation library. I got a nice subset. I had to kind of make three independent pieces of code because each sign has its own, you know, arrangement of strips and animations. So this first one here in the comments is the ghost. So it's using the animation group and the animation sequence helpers, also importing the color. Here's my NeoPixel objects. It's really good to name your pixel objects the thing. So for the ghosts, I have the ghost pixels and the glasses pixels. And that helped me figure out, you know, in the code, it helped me just label them so that I'm not using like strip A and strip B because I was doing that and I was like, quickly confused. I was like, what is going on here? So naming them is obvious, but I recommend it. You got the brightness stuff. And another important thing is the pixel order. I noticed the colors were not coming through correctly. Because the pixel order has to be, you have to explicitly say the order of the pixels. Other NeoPixels like GRB, but these like RGB. You'd think that that'd be the default, but it's not. So you have to explicitly say that. So for these specific pixels, the mini skinning neon ones, they like RGB pixel orders. But hey, it's all a part of the object and you can easily change that. Each object has its own brightness. Well, not really. The brightness you can change, but what I was going to say is like the pixel count is different for each segment. So that's where you want to change that. Yeah, let's see. So with the animation sequence, you can, you know, synchronize the animations or you can have them be sequential where you have one happen and then the next one happen. And it's all just in brackets here when you're using the animation group function. So yeah, and then you have some extra do-dads here with like the interval. How long do you want each animation to last? So you have that. And then you have whether you want to, whether you want them to be synchronized or not, you can just do a true or false on that. So that was cool. Another thing I didn't know about is that a lot of the times when I'm importing the color helper for the LED animation library, I tend to like import each individual color. Actually, you don't have to do that. So in this case here, I say color equals color.white. You can just do that, color.white, instead of having to have this long list of colors in your top setup header. So that's kind of a cool thing I didn't know about. And then the loop, the while true loop, is just like animations, not animate. It's super simple. But yeah, that's the ghost. The wolf one is a wolf. Now this is the grim reaper. It's a little bit more simple. I just have a chase and a pulse. And then for the werewolf, it's actually a good example of kind of creating a longer sequence. So I have blinking. I have a pulsing. I have a chase. I have all the animations, which is really cool to kind of see. You can create this kind of cool little effect, animated effect where you're revealing things and hiding other things, which is kind of cool. But yeah, it's a lot of fun to come up with different sequences in the LED animation library. Just makes it really, really easy. So shout out to the Cirque Python team for creating a great library. Beautiful. On to the reprinting. We got some parts. If you download the STLs or the CAD files, they're all there. You can always hit up the CAD parts repo on GitHub if you want to download some 3D models of the permaprotoboard or the QDPI. We got those for you there. Nothing really on the 3D printing part. Like they all print without any supports. You need a big volume, so 300 by 300. Yeah, that's really about it there. But you got the CAD source file, so if you want to import the stepfile into like Fusion or FreeCAD, you can modify the case if you want to make it bigger or smaller or thicker. All right, when it comes to the wiring, I ended up removing those silicone caps. They're hot glued, so you're going to have to chisel out the hot glue, but that's fair. And then just gauging the segments for your strips, so just finding out where the cutoff point is and then using a hobby knife or an exacto knife to cut them. Carefully. Yeah, carefully, very carefully. But yeah, this just walks through the wiring process and how you can use the USB extension cable to kind of reduce some of the wiring. Setting up your headers. There's some tips there on setting up your headers and the Permaproto, getting those ground and voltage rails wired up, getting the connectors in the right spots. That's fairly it. For the assembly, you just need a couple of M3 screws and hex nuts to secure that Permaproto in place. And from there, you just kind of snap fit everything together. I mainly covered the werewolf wiring, but all of those, you know, steps are applicable to the other two signs. So instead of kind of being redundant, I was like, oh, let me just pick one sign. And yeah. And that's kind of the whole guide in a nutshell. Just some good little tips here and there, but folks are free to kind of freeform it and play by ear. Yeah, so it's one of those projects where yeah, in terms of the freeform it, there's a nice banter chat, a good info in the Discord about the tin can. It's a nice funny stuff that we're trying to laugh out loud of the Canadian version of the Altoids. And a good reminder from D2Deven that we do sell a non-branded Altoids tin box. So definitely check that out. Yeah, we do. That's so cool. Yeah, probably the same one they use. But a nice little enclosure. We got 31 in stock. Yeah, that's a great little enclosure. You can drill holes into it. I don't think you need to print any of that. I should probably add that. I'm going to print a little Ninja Flex gasket to make it, although it probably already is quite resistant. I don't have the normal-sized mint. I got the small mint, which I prefer these because I guess maybe this would... Oh, this one gives you different power and ground rails. And it's more like a full-size breadboard. That has so many choices. So this would fit this regular mint size. We're all learning together. That's a little too long, but no, it's in the stud. There's so much stuff in the stud right now. There's too much. Stickers or the mint? Oh, how funny. I don't even know about this one either. That's hilarious, but full. Yeah. And then DJ Deveno posted a link to Amazon link on the cable cord hiders. Thank you. I'm going to get those. It's like same-day delivery. Could you please post the heat shrink tube roll? When I search for that on YouTube, shirts come up. It's like, what? How does that make sense? How does heat shrink tube come up with a shirt? Yeah, I like a roll of that. Cool. All right. So yeah, all the stuff is in stock and get it while supply is last. Actually, this type of project will definitely work into past Thanksgiving, into Christmas and beyond. Yeah, think about some Christmas shapes or holiday shapes, festival lights, right? Yeah, doesn't that look weird? Yeah, it's way more brighter in person. These look vivid and bright, but just some reason. The purple looks like stole. Kind of close to. Yeah, it looks okay. It's more saturated in real life, but this green looks so dull. Beautiful. It's very difficult to film these things. Yeah, we tend to do a lot of correction in the premiere. Would you happen to know the size of the small ones? I don't know what the sizes are. I don't know, the AWG? Yeah, I don't know. The gauge, the wire gauge. The small ones are 30 gauge. I was going to say maybe 30 or 20 gauge. These are 28 gauge, and I don't know what these are. I think a 28 would be kind of universal, right? Yeah, maybe a 20 gauge. That's a really, really small. I would do maybe 20 gauge, 18 gauge for these big wires like this. Although, mostly we're messing with the smaller gauge ones. Yeah, like the 30 gauge. Yeah, we use a lot of 30 gauge. I will keep an eye on the chat for that. Everybody, if you want to see all this cool banter, all the cool links, all the cool tips. This was supposed to be a single strip, but I ran out of them. So I salvaged this one from some other project. And I was able to connect the data into data out there. And no one's the wiser, right? But I would have preferred this to be just one continual strip. I just ran out of stuff. You can see here I'm kind of empty on the gap there. When it comes to the design of the channels and extrusion, I want to do a layer-by-layer on some of the design considerations. And yeah, some of the features that kind of make it a little bit easier to kind of make these extrusions is in the thin extrude infusion. Yeah, but that's this week's project. Neon signs getting more intricate with the animations and the shapes. How's everybody in the chat room? We spooked out. Jump in to discord.dg slash Adafruit. Excellent, excellent links and tips and banter. Yeah, man. All the stuff is all linked in there. Excellent. All right, let's go ahead and jump into this week's. What are we prototyping? I need to take these headphones off because otherwise I can't hear myself talk. I'll keep my eye on the volume meter. So I'll know. Oh, here's the link for that. All right, so lots of updates every single week to Whipper Snapper. It's our no code IOT platform that Brent, Lauren, and Credon team are working on. One of the new additions is the DS18B, which is a temperature gauge sensor control. Yeah, waterproof. So this one we're using on our pool so we can keep track of, you know, all of the things that we want to know about, which is how long does the pool take to heat up based on the ambient temperature outside? Like when it drops in temperature like the 60s and 50s, how long does that take to actually warm back up? How long does it stay warm at? And this is definitely to gauge like when we actually go to the pool. Being in like 90 degree temperature all the time, you know, anything in the age is going to feel fricking cold to us. So it's a good way to know, oh, when can I chuck the kids into the pool? We can burn some energy. So this is a really good way to graph everything out and see how long things take, which translates into, oh, how much energy I'm going to be using. Is this like 30 kilowatt hours that I'm going to use up or what? And so what we're using inside here is a QDPI ESP32S2. And down at the bottom here, we have one of the cool LC battery gauges. We can take a look at how long the battery's going to take to stay. You can just see the voltage of the battery. Is it dying? Is it low? Is it voltage? It's a percentage. Very, very useful. I'm seeing you use that in all of your IoT projects now. Like it's so important to know the battery level, and I'm glad we have something now. I am going to try adding the solar panel on top, but some of the previous tests I've done on it, seeing if it can even charge up. It just, with as much sun that we have going on right now with the earth tilting everything, it's not as much charging. We're getting off of that. So I'll try it out with this one. But yeah, we've got the 2200 milliamp hour battery inside there and that is, this is the waterproof, not the high temperature one, because this does go up to, what was it, 250 C? Yeah, let's take a look at the products. So we're using the small water resistant case. So it has like the, is it the, I'm blanking out on the name? It's a little gland in here. So yeah, cable gland in there. And then on the back, I drilled a little hole. Hold on, I don't know what I'm looking at. This guy through. And three of these are supported. We have the high temperature one, the, I don't know what the name of the first one that shows up in the list here. Temperature sensor plus extras, yeah. That's a temperature sensor? Yep, okay. But these are like meant for being waterproof, submergible, right? Yeah, mm-hmm. So this is the one you're using, the DS18B. Yeah, okay. It's about 10 bucks. Let's click on it. Quick look at the temperature. So it's about, we're going to do Fahrenheit, negative, negative. Yeah, negative 67. Whoa. To 257. That's not high temperature. The high temperature one is like even fire, maybe you're baking something. What if you stick this in your coffee? Can you find out how cold your coffee is? Well, it's been in the pool, so I don't want to be drinking. That's gross. Chlorine. All right, well, here's a high temperature one. Let's see what the range is on that one. A negative 10C to 85C, or 257 Fahrenheit. It sounds like the same. It's the same, doesn't it? Maybe there's something about the, uh... Maybe the cable doesn't, like, thrive. What in any case, we're only measuring, yet it didn't go too far before, you guys. Yeah. It's just prototypes. You have to wrap it up anyway. Yeah. Yeah. In any case, I wanted to go into ATFRO.io and just show that it is on there. It's beta 53. I'm not going to load it, unless you want it to crash again. Oh, okay. I don't think that was the problem, but I just... We're going to spend 30 minutes and you're not going to realize it. It's like, we got a buggy. Okay, so awesome addition to Whippersadder. We'll talk about it in a week or two. Yeah. Very nice addition. Excellent work. It's super cool. I am very pleased. All right, let's go ahead and jump into what this week's immunity makes. Yeah. We're going to have to just get shop talk. Just go check out the CAD parts repo for new parts. Oh, I forgot that. I added money. I keep seeing it pop up all over in social media. I just want to take your temperature. Referencing the Jeffrey Dahmer. Oh, man. I just want to take your picture. I just want to take your temperature. All right, let's go ahead and jump into... Oh, shop talk. Yeah, so check out the CAD parts. We got new parts, so they're up there. All right. Community makes. Community makes. Every week we find a 3D printed thing from the community and we 3D print it out. This week it's a jack-o'-lantern shaped like a Mickey hat from Disney. You found this one. I had no idea what to print. They're like, hey, really cool pumpkin. This one's from M.Wolfer. Poses this up as a free design on printables, I believe. You got some support material. You can add your Circuit Playground Express or LEDs, whatever to it. There are several different versions, one that wouldn't require the support materials. It has the little top that comes off and the ear is separate, so you can print those in different colors. But I just wanted to print the whole thing. And that is the mouse. That is the radiant orange. It's a radioactive orange. Yeah, I had to chuck this orange because it was so dry. Yeah, it was from Kodak. We got to get ourselves a filament dehumid... The moisturizer. It's like a food thing. There's a dehumidifier in that whole room. No, it's just a little container that's meant for food. Gotcha, yeah. It's kind of because... Yep, so in here, of course, we want to highlight the Circuit Playground Express or the Blue Fruit one. Many of those work perfect for inserting into this year's carved pumpkin. This is just running some standard color change code. So we're either do do, and we've got a little lipo on the back here with the Ninja Flex. So I'll probably put this in a Ziploc bag and stick it inside a real pumpkin. But for kids, of course, they love having their own little Mickey pumpkin. Nice, super simple. They'd have to use supports for the mouth and the nose. But other than that, pretty easy print. Cool, nice. Shout out to M.Wolfer for posting this up. It's free download, and there's, like Peter said, various versions of it. Oh, I actually did the glow-in-the-dark one. Oh, yeah, look. Ah, the NFL looks kind of cool there. Yeah, very neat. So if you're into the... What was that one? Which one? Oh, yeah. I like the kind of multicolor almost, just from the mix of the two things happening. Very awesome. And I think we've got a couple of other community mix. Let me go give the kid the pumpkin until the show calms down. So we've got a PropMaker Leitzaber that was up remixed. So shout out to ThingiverseUzubu for posting up their remix of the saber parts. You want to build your own Leitzaber? We've got the parts in a learn guide. It's quite fun. I'd love to do another one, a more modern, optimized one at some point. All right. Next up we have this kind of the last one. It's a make of something. It's the Raspberry Pi Zero stand. If you're looking for a way to stand up your Raspberry Pi Zero and maybe some accessories. This is a nice little 3D printed stand. So shout out to the JK Rolls for posting up their make of the stand for the Raspberry Pi. Looking good there. Cool. And that's this week's community mix. Shout out to everybody for posting up their makes and letting us know. All right. Let me check out again Discord. You got to be in there adorable posts in there. Yep. That looks good. All right, cool. I think it's going to be it for the show. Yay. We ended it a little bit earlier. Sorry about all the audio issues. Again, spooky episode, huh? Wirecasts. I was going to say bad things. Hope you're positive. We got to stay negatively positive. Cool. Well, we hope to see everybody on tonight's show and tell hosted by Lamar and Phil. I think we'll see some spooky costumes and whatnot. So bring your spooky attire if you'd like. But everything else is free. You know, fair game. It starts at 7 30 p.m. And then Ask Engineer starts at 8 p.m. Shortly after for a full hour of new products, open source hardware news, INMPI and many other fun segments. Tomorrow is John Park's workshop at 4 p.m. Eastern Time. Check out John Park building out some fun stuff. On Fridays, we have a deep dive with Tim, Foamy Guy, every 5 p.m. Eastern or 2 p.m. Pacific. On Sundays, you have Lady Aida streaming from the desk of Lady Aida, where she shows what she's working on. And then on Mondays, you have the Circuit Python, weekly hangout with folks from the community. Happens every Monday at 2 p.m. Eastern. So tune in to that. On Tuesdays, we have the product pick of the week from JP. Every Tuesday, 4 p.m. Eastern Time or 1 p.m. Pacific. We can get up to 50% off. Select items. Insanity. As a quick programming note, we will be off for the next two weeks. We'll return the following third week. So until then, happy birthday. Happy birthday. Yeah, my birthday's coming up. And yeah, we'll be back the second week of November, I believe. So that'll be fun. Although we'll be off. We'll still release projects. Yeah, there's still this project coming out. We've got a Mickey Magic Band Reader. We have some more IOT projects and a whole slew of things that are escaping my memory right now. There's so much going on. Yeah, yeah, yeah. So we'll miss you folks, but hopefully everybody stays inspired and positive and make some cool stuff. And with all that said, don't make it. Don't forget to make a great day. Bye, folks. See you later tonight.