 All right guys, so on today's vlog, we do the 180 degree haircut. 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, go! So we've talked about degrees and haircuts quite a bit. So what I wanted to do today on the vlog is go over the 180 degree haircut. Now what I wanted to do, the reason I wanted to do this is because a lot of people think just cutting everything straight up in the air is cutting it at 180 degrees which would be cutting it on a flat plane which we've talked about, the head is a round surface. So I want to go over how to actually cut 180 degrees and why I think that's important and how we're going to collapse the hair all over the head and create this really nice layered, pretty seamless layer because of the fact that we're cutting concave layers throughout this entire head. So you actually have some short layers in here but they fall nice and it's rainy and gross so this mannequin head looks terrible. But we got our face frame, it's all collapsed and a lot of movement, a lot of layering throughout the haircut. I'm also going to show you guys how to do this haircut curly with a curlier style, not curly, but wavy for an end result. So hope you guys like it, let's get started with the step by step, let me know in the comments what you think. Alright guys, so the sectioning is pretty simple, we're going to create a rectangle shape on the top of the head following the parietal ridge across mid-crown and back down the parietal ridge and then we're going to split the head in half at the division point which is right behind the ear, right where you see that head kind of curve towards the back, that's where you want to separate the front and the back. Then we're going to split directly down center back and that's going to create a nice long vertical section and create two separate panels in the very back which you can see on the diagram next to the video. So I'm elevating everything straight up in the air, so we're working classic 180 degree section or haircutting right now. The reason I wanted to make this video is because I want to show you guys that 180 degrees is holding it opposite of zero, right? So as I'm working through the head shape, zero would be straight down from this part of the head so 180 degrees would be straight up. When we move to the top of the head we're going to shift our angle that we're holding the hair because 180 degrees is not straight up. So when I was in beauty school that's what they taught was 180 degrees you could basically turn the mannequin upside down, cut it flat and then that would be 180 degree haircut. We're shifting it today. This is kind of my own little version of what I think 180 degree haircut is and what actually truly collapses the entire weight and density of the haircut. So we just go through everything comes up to that stationary guide. So we cut everything horizontal across the top. Now I'm connecting each side together but it's just very consistent staying square in the back of the head and making sure I'm elevating everything to the exact same point, creating a very strong guideline in the top of the head. This is also considered concave layering. So those of you that like to do concave layers and you're working with the square shape in the back, horizontal is a great way to go because it's very simple to just elevate everything straight up in the air. You don't have to worry about your elbow getting in the way or elevating your elbow too much. It's just a really easy way to cut those concave layers in the back. And what a concave layer basically does is it's going to go through and collapse any of the shapes. It's going to create layers, very seamless looking layers and just collapse in your shape, you're not building up any weight at that point. So as I finish up the back now I'm going to work on the side. Now this is elevated at 180 degrees. My finger angle is shifting to help push more weight to the back of the head. So what I wanted to do is create almost a little more of a face frame in this haircut. So I'm over directing everything forward but still straight up at 180 degrees. So I wanted to keep that 180 degree angle but that doesn't mean everything has to come straight up and live flat square across the head. So we're creating more of a rounded layer, kind of pushing it off of the face to open up the face in this haircut. We're doing the same thing on the opposite side, so taking a horizontal section but shifting my finger angle to create that length. Now the guideline is coming from the previously cut section. So I'm taking a piece of that top layer which you can see at the bottom of my finger and connecting it in the haircut that way. So we are connecting it, so just make sure that you see that guide in the back. And now I'm going to go through and blow it dry. This is a big thing I've been doing lately because as I'm trying to figure out ways to speed up time in the salon and also be more efficient. So I feel that blow-drying the hair because I already have it sectioned and really seeing the shape kind of coming to life before I move on to cut my next section just works really well for me. I also, some people have asked, well isn't the hair a little bit shorter? The hair isn't shorter, the density changes. So a lot of people talk about how hair kind of expands and grows when it gets, when it starts to dry. Well, when it starts to dry it doesn't shrink up or anything. It really just, the density expands so it makes it appear shorter but the hair is never going to change really too much length. So, and either way I like, it's not going to be that much to where if I connect the bottom and the top that you're going to notice it anyways. So now I'm going to go through and clean up the bottom. I don't start off the haircut on the bottom because I want to decide my length later. And I decide my length based on what the density looks like when I finish the layering of the haircut. So if it's a little weaker I might take the length up a little bit and maybe sometimes I can keep it a little bit longer. So you can see a nice strong line, a lot of really cool invisible layers in there. So pretty cool haircut so far. Now I'm going to part the hair where it's going to live. So this is where the 180 degrees is going to shift a bit. So think about where zero would be from this corner of the head. So now I'm elevating it straight up from that which is 180 degrees. So it's a nice shift and a pretty cool angle that you can see that we're holding the hair. That's going to leave that side nice and light. And now I'm going to go through and cut the opposite side and I'm going to bring that over to me. So as we're working on the top of the head to make it as light as possible because this is going to fall on the opposite side of the head I'm completely shifting it to live at 180 degrees and give me a nice light feel when it flips back over to the other side. So she's going to wear this on the opposite side of the head. The other thing I want you to see and you can see it the best in the diagram is how my finger angle is on this. I'm pretty much following, we're over directing it a little bit over the corner of the eye and my finger angle is shifting towards the corner of the eye as well. So I'm trying to get a little bit more of an angle on the cut to give it a nice little face frame. So I'll go through and blow it dry. Again, I love the fact that I've already dry and ironed the bottom so the bottom is done. Now I just have to blow dry that top rectangle and my hair cut's pretty much complete. So go through, vibra straight iron, iron it up, use the ergo paddle brush to get a nice flat wrap feel and giving us our polished look. I'm going to go through and show you guys another look after we get the dry cutting done. All right, you notice they switch to kind of a vent brush when I'm ironing. The reason I'm doing that is because I like to, I don't like to have as much tension, I like to get under the hair and kind of scoop it. I'm not trying to create such a flat feel plus it's a smaller brush so it's just easier to work with. All right, now we're going to go through. You can see the face frame that we created using elevation. Now using elevation doesn't mean that you're going to have that perfect face frame. So what I'd like to do is just go in a little bit of slide cutting. This is with my Mizutani DB20 scissor. This is the scissor I talk about that I use all the time. I also have it on freeslawneducation.com. So if you'd like to check it out, definitely do that. It's on our shop. But I just go through when I slide cut and add the pieceness to the face frame so that those pieces just really happen for her when she goes to style her hair. Now I'm going to go through horizontal, elevate the hair up to that 180 degree point and just do a little bit of point cutting to lighten up the layers, soften it so it gets a nice flow to the layering as it falls. And now I'm going to grab that corner eye piece just to lighten that up a bit as well. Always get to do a little bit of point cutting on a hard line. If you're looking to kind of soften some weight, just going through there, deep point cut, but not trying to change it too much. Now you're going to see when I add this hairspray in. This is the Bercato medium hold hairspray. When I go in there, you can see those pieces just come to life that I cut in there doing that slide cutting technique. So that's why I love doing that because it just separates it so much better. You can see pretty cool haircut. This is definitely cooler than the 180 degree haircut that I learned in school. This is wearable, definitely a great haircut. I would do on a lot of different clients. So hope you guys like that. Now we're going to go through large barrel curling iron and I'm just curling everything off of the face. So like I said before, when I did the layering in the haircut, I did open layers. So I was opening up the face, cutting everything to fly off of the face. So when I iron it, I iron it off the face and it's going to fall perfectly the way I wanted it to. And I'm using that brush again. This is the Paul Mitchell 413 brush, probably one of my second favorite brush that I use. So it's pretty much good for anything you're working with. So now the last little bit, I'm curling the bang or the kind of fringe area the opposite direction. And I'll go through, use my fingers to push the hair back and then hairspray to finish off the look. You can see how nice those layers come off of the face. Pretty psyched on this 180 degree haircut. Hope you guys like it. Let me know in the comments below. Love to hear your thoughts. Thanks. All right guys, like always if you like this haircut, hit the like button and share the video with all of your friends. I appreciate the support. I'll see you guys on the next video. Thanks.