 Chapter 20 of A Woman Who Went to Alaska by May Kellogg Sullivan Thursday, December 13th, the old Eskimo whom I call grandpa came from the home with one of Mr. H's assistance for a load of supplies for the place and arrived in time for breakfast at half past nine. They loaded up the sleds, took hot coffee, and started back at eleven in the morning. Mr. M came back alone before noon, having given up his trip to the Koyuk because his shoulder hurts him. The old horse had finally to be killed, and Mr. M decided that he did not want to take his place at hauling, so turned back after selling part of his supplies to the others. The weather is fine indeed. A little snow is falling this afternoon, but there was a beautiful sky at sunrise and sunset, the latter at half past one o'clock. While giving Ginny her lesson today, I was introduced for the first time to little Charlie, who spends a good deal of time with Ginny. He is four years old, and a bright and beautiful child. His papa is an Englishman, and his Eskimo mother is dead. After the lesson, I read stories to the two children, holding the little boy upon my lap while Ginny sat beside us in the lamp light, her big black eyes shining like stars. She wore a brown surged dress, trimmed with narrow red trimming, her hair neatly braided in two braids down her back, and tied with red ribbons. Both children wore little reindeer muck looks on their feet, the boy being dressed in flannel blouse waist and knee pants. They are a very pretty pair of children. Such a charming, soft-tinted, red, purple and blue sky today, stretching along in bars above the snow-topped mountains, makes one glad to be here and feel full of pity for those who cannot enjoy it with us. It is good to enjoy everything possible as one goes along, for nobody knows how long anything will hold out and what will come next. At noon two hungry Eskimo children came, dirty, forlorn and cold, and we fed them. Mr. H came again toward evening with reindeer to get a load of supplies, and the girls and M went fishing. Great sport, all dressed in fur, with short fish poles, hooks, bait and gunny sack for the game, coming in frosty and rosy after dark and calling for hot coffee. I am quite interested in getting the fox skins for my coat. I have paid the Eskimo girl five dollars for tanning my fur skins and hope to have a warm coat. My first three skins cost me twelve dollars, the next two ten dollars, and now five dollars for tanning, but I have a lining, and Molly will make it for me next week. After supper we had a caller who has been here once before with others. He is a finely trained baritone singer, and comes from one of the southern states. He sang and played entertainingly on the organ for an hour, while we sewed and knitted as we do each evening. Saturday, December 15th. Eight weeks to day since we landed at Galovan Bay. Weather good, skies beautiful, but days are short. Sunset at half past one in the afternoon. Sunrise about ten in the morning. The commissioner came with legal documents and customary jokes, and I try to get the copying done in between times. He is going to gnome for Christmas, and once the paper's all finished before he leaves, he is considered a very rapid young man and looks like it. Sunday, December 16th. We had breakfast today at sunrise, ten in the morning, and I went for a walk alone upon the ice in a southerly direction, where the natives were fishing. There was a good trail which has been made by a horse team hauling wood from the other shore, and the air was fine so that I enjoyed it very much, though my hood was soon frosty around my face. For a while I watched the natives haul Tom Cod up through the ice holes, but having no place to sit except upon the ice, as they did, I returned after having been gone two hours and was soon dressed for dinner in Sunday suit. After dinner, Mr. H arrived with the teacher to hold an evening service in the kitchen, the latter taking Rika and Mary with her to call upon some native families, two of whose members were sick. When they returned, Rika was full of laughter at the way they had entered the native igloos, especially Mary, who is a large woman and could barely squeeze in through the small opening called by courtesy a door. Rika says it was more like crawling through a hole than anything else, and at one time Mary was so tightly jammed in that she wondered seriously how she was ever to get out. Ah! said Rika, when Mary related the incident. That was not the worst of it. I wanted to keep the good dinner I had eaten, but the smell of the igloo almost made me lose it then and there, and as I was inside already, and Mary stuck fast in the door so that I could not get out. We were both in a bad plight. When I tried to help her, she would not let me, but only laughed at me. Next time we'll send Mrs. Sullivan, said Alma, laughing. And you go along with me, said I, knowing that I could stand as long as Alma the smell of the Eskimo huts and their seal oil. So that was settled. Ms. Jay, I presume, thinking us all very foolish to make so much fuss over a little thing like that in Alaska. This evening when the kitchen was filled with natives, their service had begun, and while some of us sat in the sitting room to leave more chairs for the others, there came a knock at the door, an in-walk the commissioner and the young baritone singer, who was persuaded to sing a few solos after the meeting was through in the kitchen. Monday, December 17th. Molly is cutting my fur coat for me, but says I must have one or two more skins to make it large enough. She says she is too busy to study before Christmas, but will afterwards. The commissioner brought more copying for me to do, and told me I could have the money for my work at any time. Some tell me he never pays anything he owes, and that I must look sharp or I will not get anything. The other commissioner has invited me to go to a New Year's party at council, fifty miles away, saying he will take me there and back behind his best dogs. But I refused, telling him that I never dance and that I'm a married woman. At that he laughed, said he was also married, with a wife in the States, but that does not debar him from having a good time. Word comes of a new gold strike not far away, but I think we are not really sure that it is bona fide, and must not put too much dependence on what we hear. The commissioner comes with this copying and is full of jokes. Wednesday, December 19th. A man came from the home yesterday who has persuaded him to go with him on a short staking expedition. They think they know of a new find very near home, and I ran over to the recorders to get two attorney papers made out for them to take as they say they will stake for the girls in me. The commissioner paid me twenty dollars on copying, and said he would settle the remainder when he got back from Nome, as he and the other commissioner were just setting out with a dog team for that place. I have had to buy another fox skin for my coat, making twenty seven dollars paid out on the garment thus far. Right sorry I was today that Mr. H. carried away the big velvet couch yesterday that I have slept on nights since coming here, and I tried last night the wooden settle brought down from upstairs to the sitting room. I found it a most uncomfortable thing to sleep on, as my feet hung at least six inches over the end of the lounge, and they were icy when I awakened in the morning. I then decided to go upstairs to one of the canvas bunks in the northeast room, and I find it much better every way. The bunk is long, wide and warm enough with the reindeer skin under me, and all my blankets and comforters over me, while I have the room alone, temporarily at least. Saturday December twenty second. This is the middle shortest day of winter, and a fine one too, though we had not more than three and a half hours daylight. The skies are beautiful, with many bright colors blended in a most wonderful way. The girls are hard at work cooking for Christmas, and while the boys were all away today and we needed wood brought into the house, I rigged myself in ragtime costume and fetched several loads in my arms. How the girls laughed when they saw me, and declared they would fetch the Kodak, but I ran away again. This afternoon, M and the other man returned from their little trip, looking bright and happy over having staked some claims for themselves and us, not very far away. These are our first claims staked, and we naturally feel more than usually set up, though the men say of course there may be nothing of value in them. When I went to give Jenny her lesson, I heard her father and another man talking of a party of five persons who have been taken out to sea on the ice near Topcock. They started about three days ago from here, and one was the sick woman who has been at the hotel, all on their way to Gnome by dog team. There were two women and three men, two dog teams and sleds. They were crossing the ice between two points of land, while upon the winter trail to Gnome, the wind had loosened the ice, and when they tried to get upon shore again, they found it impossible, and they were blown directly out to sea. Without food or shelter, and with the nights as cold as they are, how can they live on the ice at sea? Some men have arrived bringing the news, and say that two men went out on a boat to their rescue, but broke their oars, the ice closed in on them, they were soaked through, and were obliged to use their best efforts to save themselves. The following night was very cold, and all think the unfortunates must have perished. What a terrible fate, and one that may happen to anyone traveling in this country, though it does seem as if this ice should soon freeze solidly. Sunday, December 23. Soon after breakfast today, a man came to our door asking for iodine, or remedies for a dog bite. A mad dog had rushed upon a man sleeping in a tent in the night, and bitten him quite severely upon the hands and leg. Mary and I put on our furs immediately and started out with the man, who piloted us into a small saloon, where the poor fellow sat by the stove with a white and pinched face. Several other men were standing about, after having done all they could for the injured man, but Mary washed the torn flesh in strong, carbolic acid water, and tied it up in sterilized bandages, for which he seemed very thankful. The little saloon was neat and clean, containing a big stove, six or eight bunks across the back end, and a long table, upon which were spread tin plates, cups, and spoons. A short bar ran along one side by the door. The men said that the mad dog had been shot immediately after the accident, but there were others around in the camp they feared. I could easily see that the injured man was badly frightened as to the after effects of the dog bite, and both Mary and I did all in our power to suggest away his fear, knowing well that this was as harmful as the injury. I told him that the missionary, Mr. H., had had a great deal of experience with such accidents, but never yet had seen a person thus bitten suffer from hydrophobia, which appeared to comfort him greatly. When we left the place, he seemed more cheerful, though still very pale, and Mary promised to come again to see him. He belongs to a party of three men bound for Coyote River. The young man who sings so well, sometimes at the mission, is one of the three, but the other I have not yet seen. Later on, Mary and I called upon Alice, the Eskimo girl, who lives with her mother near the hotel, and who is suffering with Quincy. I found Jenny and Charlie there, and took them out for a walk down on the beach, where the little girl's aunt was cutting ice. As we passed the AE store, I noticed a dog lying on the porch, having a bloody mouth, but as he lay quietly I did not think much about it. After we had passed down the trail for a block or so, I heard a commotion behind us, and looking back, saw a young man rush out into the trail and shoot a dog, the one as I afterwards learned, that I had seen on the porch. It had been mad and snapping around all day, but the men could not find it earlier, and the two little children and I had passed within a few feet of it, without being conscious of danger. Mr. H came into supper, also two others from the camp of the shipwrecked people, thirty miles away to the east of us. At supper one of the men offered to stake some claims for us over near their camp, where they think there is gold. They took our names on paper, and said that after prospecting, if they found gold, they would let us into the strike before any others. They will remain overnight, and leave early in the morning. Mr. H and Mary called after supper to see the man who was bitten by the mad dog, and found him looking better, and not so worried as this morning. His friend was playing on the banjo, and all were sitting quietly around the fire. Monday, December 24th. The two boys, G and B, came in late last evening, tired and hungry, from the gnome trail. Glad to arrive at home in time for Christmas. Early this morning, Mary dressed herself up hideously as Santa Claus, bringing a big box of presents in while we sat at the breakfast table and distributing them. Of course, there were the regulation number of fake packages containing funny things for the boys, but each one had a present of something, and I had a souvenir spoon just from gnome, an ivory paper knife of Eskimo make from the girls, and later a white silk handkerchief. Going into the sitting-room after breakfast, we were met by the fumes of burnt cork, hair or cotton, and upon inquiry were told that Santa Claus had had a little mishap. His whiskers had been singed by coming into contact with the lamp chimney, and that it had delayed matters somewhat until Ricka, his assistant, could find more cotton on the medicine shelves. But the end of all was hearty laughter and a jolly good time, an effort to forget for the present the day in our own homes thousands of miles away. This morning before noon, all in the mission went to the home, to the Christmas tree and exercises, leaving me alone to keep house. The first time this has happened in Alaska. Mr. H. had left the dog teams, two reindeer and three sleds, with which they were to drive over, and a merry party they were. When they had gone, I worked for some time at getting the rooms in order, and making all as tidy and snug as possible, but I had no holly berries nor greens with which to decorate. All was snowy and white out of doors, and a cheerful fire inside was most to be desired. In the afternoon I gave Jenny her lesson as usual. I am invited to eat Christmas dinner tomorrow with Molly, the captain, and little Jenny, and shall accept. A good many in camp have been invited, I understand, and I am wondering what kind of a gathering it will be. Tuesday, December 25th. Christmas Day, and I was alone in the mission all night, so I had to build my own fires this morning. I did not get up until ten o'clock, as it was cold and dark, and I had nothing a special to do. There is plenty of wood and water, and everything in the house, so I did not have to go out of doors for anything. By noon I had finished my work, put on my best dress, and sat down at the organ to play. I went over all the church music and voluntaries I could find at hand, read a number of Psalms aloud, and as far as possible for one person, I went through my Christmas exercises. If a certain longing for things and people far away came near possessing me, I would not allow it to make me miserable. For longing is not necessarily unhappiness, and I had set my mind like a flint against being dissatisfied with my present state. With what knowledge I possess of the laws of auto-suggestion, I have so far, since my arrival in Alaska, managed the ego within most successfully, and tears and discontent are not encouraged nor allowed. We are creatures of voluntary habits, as well as involuntary ones, and habitual discontent and discouragement, gnawing at one's vitals, are truly death-dealing. The study of human nature is, in Alaska, particularly interesting in these directions, to the one with his mind's eye open to such things, and I am resolved, come what will, that I will keep the upper hand of my spirit, that it shall do as I direct, and not harbor blues nor discouragement. About two in the afternoon, in came Im and one of the visiting Swedes, after having walked from the home where they had attended the Christmas party, and they were well covered with icicles. I prepared a hot lunch for them, and ate something myself. Later, a native was sent by Molly to fetch me over to the hotel to dinner, it being dark, and as I was already dressed for the occasion, I went with him. When I arrived at the dining room, they were just seated at table, and the waiters were bringing in the first course. Twenty-five persons sat at the Christmas board, at one end of which sat the captain as host with his wife and little Ginny at his left. At his right sat the young musician, who had entertained us at the mission several times with his singing, and the storekeeper, but with a place between them reserved for me. After a quiet Christmas greeting to those around me, I took my seat and the dinner was then served. A bottle of wine was ordered by the host for me, and brought by the waiter, who placed it with a glass beside my plate. At each plate there had already been placed the same accompaniments to the dinner, with which great care had been taken by the two French cooks in the kitchen, and upon which no expense had been spared by the captain, who was host. While the waiters were serving the courses and conversation around the table near me became quite general, on the aside I studied the company. It was cosmopolitan to the last degree. Opposite me sat the hostess, Molly, with her little Ginny, dressed in their very best, the woman wearing a fashionable trained skirt, pink silk waist, and diamond brooch, while the little child wore light tan cloth in city fashion, and looked very pretty. Below them sat the regular boarders at the hotel, hotel clerk, the bartender, minors, traders, and the woman who kept the saloon. The latter appeared about 30 years of age, dark, petite and pretty, richly and becomingly gowned in garments which might have come along with her native tongue from Paris. On our side of the long table, and opposite this woman, sat the only other white woman besides myself present, and she, with her husband, the two neighbors who had given us our first sleigh ride behind the grey horse. On this side sat more minors and the few travelers who happened to be at the hotel at this time. The clerk, next to his employer, who sat at my right, and the musician on my left, completed the number of guests, with the exception of the one at the farther end of the board opposite the host. This was a young man in a heavy fur coat, his head drooping low over his plate. Don't let age fall upon the floor, boys, said the captain, as he saw the pitiable plight of the young man. Poor fellow, he has been celebrating Christmas with a vengeance, and it was too much for him evidently. It don't take much to knock him out, though, and this wine, taking up his wine glass and looking through the liquid it contained, won't hurt a baby. Do you never take wine, politely inquired the musician of me, as he noticed that my wine glass remained untouched, and a glass of cold water was my only beverage. I never do, said I firmly, but with a smile, as I noticed that both he and the gentleman at my right barely touched theirs, while others drank freely. Waiter, bring Melly another bottle of that wine, called the bartender, from the other side of the table. Those bottles don't hold nothing anyway, and a woman who can't empty more than one of them ain't much. And a second bottle was handed the female dispenser of Grog, a connoisseur of long standing, and one who could stand up under as much as the next person. By this time the woman opposite her was considerably along the road to hilarity, and shouts and laughter came from both, called forth by the jest of their companions alongside. Meanwhile the dinner progressed, the turkey was bonafide bird, and not a few gulls bones from a tin quart can, while the cake and ice cream with which my meal was ended, were all that could be desired in Alaska. All voted that the cooks had done themselves proud, and no one could say that Christmas dinners could not be served in Cinec. Before rising from the table, at the close of the meal, toast to the host and hostess were drunk by those at the bottles, and Christmas presents were distributed to many, principally to members of the family, and from borders of the house. There were silk handkerchiefs, red neckties, boiled shirts, and mittens, and in some instances mousse hide gloves and moccasins made by the Eskimo hostess herself, while melly came in for a share, including a large black bottle of choice burgundy. Upon leaving the dining table, the company separated, most of the men going into the bar room and store, while the family and invited guests repaired to the living room. Here a good-sized Christmas tree had been arranged for Jenny and Charlie, and their presents were displayed and talked over. In the meantime, the long dining table was cleared and spread again for the Eskimos, who soon flocked into the room in numbers. Someone proposed that we go to the mission and have some songs by the musician, to which all ascended, and nine of us, including the captain, his wife, and Jenny, started over about half past eight o'clock. There we found the rooms bright and warm, the two men keeping house in my absence, having escaped to the upper rooms on hearing the party approaching. Here a pleasant hour or two were passed and listening to the songs of the musician, who always accompanies himself on his instrument, whether banjo or organ. He sang The Lost Chord, Old Kentucky Home, and many other dear old songs, closing with God be with you till we meet again, and the doxology. After that they pulled on their parkies and fur coats and went out into the snowstorm, for by this time the snow was falling heavily, and to their homes, while I sat down alone in the firelight to review the events of the day. My first Christmas day in Alaska. How different from any other I have ever spent. What a disclosure of the shady side of human nature this is. And yet, there is some good intermingled with it all. Many here cannot endure the stress of the current, nor pull against it, and so float easily on towards the rapids and destruction. Here is a field for the Christian worker, though Mr. H says he moved his little flock twelve miles across the bay, in order to get it farther away from this iniquitous camp. End of Chapter 20 Chapter 21 of A Woman Who Went to Alaska by May Kellogg Sullivan This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. This recording by Karen Cummins Chapter 21. My First Gold Claims Christmas is over for another year, and this is December 26th with its daily winter routine. After I had given the two men their breakfast, I went out for a walk upon the beach. A few snowflakes fell upon my face as I walked, and it was not cold, but pleasant. There was a red and glowing eastern sky, but no sunshine, and I looked out over the ice to see if possibly the girls were returning. Seeing nothing of them, I went home again. About two o'clock, M came in, saying that they could be seen far out upon the ice, and we must build the fires and get dinner started, which we then did. Soon Alma came riding on a reindeer sled with a native driver, getting in ahead of the others who arrived half an hour later. Mr. H has come with two of his assistants and Ms. E by reindeer team from the home on their way to the station, where the animals are herded in the hills, and all had a good lunch. After spending two hours in packing, talking, and resting, they left again. Ms. E on a sled behind a reindeer, which was driven by a native, and which tore up the snow and clouds as he dashed over the ice northward to the hills. I ran out upon the cliff to see them on their way, being quite contented that it was not myself. I have learned that the five persons who drifted out to sea on the ice were brought back by the wind and tide, and escaped safely to land after being at sea several days. But were unharmed and went on to gnome. I was very glad to hear this, as they have had a narrow escape from death. Friday, December 28th, the musician and his friend, who was bitten by the mad dog, called this forenoon at the mission to get the man's wounds dressed by Mary, the nurse. His hands are much better, but the wounded leg may yet give him trouble. Mary did her best for the man, who seems to be growing more cheerful. And we do all possible to encourage and help him, lending him reading matter of various kinds with which to pass his time. A good many are going to the New Year's party at council, among them the captain and his wife, and the musician. But I shall not go, though both commissioners have urged me to accept their invitations, and did not enjoy over much my refusals. I was playing ball with Jenny and Charlie before our lessons today, when the party started out with the dog teams, for the nights are very moonlight and clear, and they can travel for many hours. A cousin of Molly's, by name Aggy Tuck, went with her. Jenny is to stay with her auntie until her momma's return, and I will give her the afternoon lessons just the same, only at her auntie's house. When the lesson was finished, I led Charlie to Aggy Tuck's house, where her mother cares for him in the night time, and left Jenny with her auntie, Apoc. This woman has a neat little cabin of three small rooms, furnished in comfortable fashion, with a pretty Brussels rug covering the floor of her best room, in which is a white iron bedstead, a good small table with a pretty cover, a large lamp, white dimedy curtains at the windows over the shades, and in the next room there are white dishes upon the shelves. Sunday, December 30th. It is ten weeks yesterday, since we arrived at Golovin, or Cinec, as is the Eskimo name for the settlement, and pronounced Cinec, a creek of the same name flowing into the bay a mile east of this camp. During the day I went to look after Jenny and brought the child home with me, giving her candy and nuts, and playing for her on the organ. This evening we all went out upon the ice for a walk. We took the trail to White Mountain, going in a north-westerly direction, and enjoyed it very much. We passed the cliff and the boats, the snow creaking at every step, and the moonlight clear and beautiful. We were out for two hours, and felt better for the fresh air and exercise. All old-timers say that it is bad for one's health to remain indoors too much in Alaska, and people should get out every day for exercise. There is far more danger of getting scurvy by remaining in the house too much than from any kinds of food we have to eat, and none of us wish to be ill with that troublesome disease. About five o'clock, Miss E came in with a native from the station where the reindeer are kept, having grown tired of staying in a native hut with the Eskimo women while the missionary was busy at work. She started early this morning when the weather was fine. Lincoln, the experienced native who came with her, knew the way perfectly, and they expected to make the twelve or fifteen miles and get into the mission early. But the weather suddenly changed as it knows so well how to do in this country. The wind blew, snow fell, and drifted, and though they came safely through the hills, they lost their way upon the bay while crossing to Chenwick, and wandered for hours in the snowstorm. Having no lunch, tent, nor compass, and no extra furs, they found themselves in a disagreeable plight, especially as the snow was very soft and wet. They kept on traveling, however, until they were satisfied that they were going in circles, as do all when lost in a snowstorm, and were making no progress. Then they halted. Here they were overtaken by two white men, lost like themselves, who, when the matter had been talked over, would not follow the native, thinking they knew better than he the way to Chenwick, and they went off by themselves. Missy says that both she and Lincoln had given up hope of getting here today, but she knelt upon the ice and prayed that they might find their way safely, then trusted that they would do so, and started. After going on for a time in the storm, they saw a small, deserted cabin not far from them, which Lincoln instantly recognized as one upon the point of land only a quarter of a mile west of Chenwick, and they were happy. They soon came into the mission, full of gratitude, though wet, tired, and hungry, for it is so warm that there is water on the ice in places, and the snow is very heavy. They had only one deer with them. The two lost men came into camp an hour after Missy arrived, having gone past the cabin and camp, and southward too far in their reckoning. It is never safe to travel without a compass of some sort in this country. Mr. H. and his two men have, besides attending to the herd, staked some gold claims while away, not far from our claims. The wind has died down, and there is no snow falling tonight at half past eight. This is New Year's Eve, and the girls and boys are singing and having a good time in the sitting room while I write. We are going to sit up to watch the old year out and the new year in, and have a little song service at midnight. This is the last day of 1900, and a memorable year it has been. How many new scenes and how great the changes through which we have passed. What will the new year bring? Where will we be next year at this time? It is probably better that we do not know the future. New Year's Day 1901. This has been a good day all around after our midnight watch meeting when seven of the eight persons present took apart, and we sang many songs with the organ. At half past twelve I retired, but the others remained up until two o'clock. This evening the storekeeper and two others from White Mountain called to see if we did not care to go out coasting on the hill behind the mission, and five or six of us went. When we got to the top of the hill, the wind was so strong that I could hardly stand, and after a few trips down the hill we gave it up, part of our number going out to walk upon the ice, and the rest of us going indoors. The men were invited into the mission and stayed for an hour, chatting pleasantly, as there is no place for them to go except to the saloons. It is a great pity that there is no reading room with papers and books for the miners, with the long winter before them and nothing to do. There is a crying need for something in this line, and if they do not employ their time pleasantly and profitably, they will spend it unprofitably in some saloon or gambling place. I wish I had a thousand good magazines to scatter, but I have none. I gave Jenny her lesson, and amused both children for a time this afternoon. Yesterday the snow drifted badly, and I fear the people who went to council will not have a good trail on the way home. January 2nd. It is pleasant to have a corner by myself in which to write and be sometimes alone. The little northeast corner room where I sleep has a tile pipe coming up from the kitchen, making the room warm enough except in the coldest weather. It has a north window with no double one outside, and when the wind comes from the north I expect it will be extremely cold. From this window I can see, when the glass is free from frost, out upon the trail to Gnome and White Mountain. Today there is water on the ice, and it has been raining and blowing. Three of the boys returned from a four days prospecting trip to the west, and as two of them had been sick the whole time since they left here, they came in wet, tired and hungry, without having much good luck to relate. I told them it was something to get back at all again, and they agreed heartily, while eating a hot supper. An hour later a Mr. H. with the visiting preacher came in from the reindeer station, on their staking trip, in the same condition as the three boys had been, so a supper for them was also prepared. Our kitchen looks like a junk shop these days, and a wet one at that, for the numbers of mucklucks, fur parkies, mittens and other garments hung around the stove to dry, are almost past counting, and the odor is stifling. But the clothing must be dried somewhere, and there is no other place. An engine room would be the very best spot I know for drying so many wet furs, and I wish we had one here. In speaking to one of the men today about prospecting my claim, I told him I would furnish the grub, but he said very kindly, I wouldn't take any grub from you, I've got enough, and she'll be at work there anyway, so it won't take long to sink some holes in your claim. Which I thought was very good of him, I hope they will strike it rich. January 3, a wet, sloppy snowy day, our January thaw, Mr. H. says, I took the two children out on the sled upon the ice and pushed at the handlebars until I was reeking with perspiration, afterwards giving Jenny her lesson at her aunties. There are twelve of us under the mission roof tonight, including Miss E. and the native. January 4, these are great days, we have a house full of men, nine and all, and some are getting ready to leave tomorrow to do some staking of claims up near the station. M. said, if the musician were only here, and they could get a dog team, he would like to get him to go with him on a staking trip not far away. This man returned soon afterward, and M. wanted me to ask him if he would go. I did so, and he replied that he would go and furnish dogs if possible, but the ones he tried to get were engaged, and that plan fell through much to his discouragement. Learning this, I determined to go to the captain at the hotel and see if I could procure dogs from him for the trip. He said yes, I could have his best dogs, and that a mail carrier is here resting who will lend us his dogs, so that was all arranged. Location papers then had to be written out, drug boxes packed, a tent looked up, and many things attended to before they left, so that others in camp got an inkling of what was being done and wanted to go along. Then M. and the musician decided to put off going until midnight, when they would sneak quietly out of camp with their dogs and scamper away among the hills without the others knowing it. But it could not be done, and two or three sleds followed them at midnight in the moonlight, as is the custom with Alaska's Stampeders. January 5. Molly asked me today to go with her to visit her fox traps, and I immediately decided to go. We started about half past one in the afternoon, on foot past the cliff, but when we had gone a short distance, Molly stopped to call back to the house. Some native boys were cutting wood at the north door, and she motioned one to come to her. When he came, she spoke to him in Eskimo, and he, assenting to what she said, ran back again. I tell Mookie to come with dog team, bring us home, you get tired by and by, she said thoughtfully, as we trudged on again over and through the snow. The woman wore a reindeer parki, short skirt and mucklucks, and carried a gun on her shoulder. The snow was quite a foot deep, with a crust on top which we broke at almost every step, and which made it hard walking. On we mushed, past the cliff, the boats, and out upon the ice. The traps had been set by Molly a week before on the northeast shore of the bay, among a few low bushes, and this was our objective point. When we reached the first trap, which was buried in snow, but found by a certain shrub which Molly had in some way marked and now recognized, I threw myself upon the snow to rest and watch her movements. Around us we saw plenty of ptarmigan tracks, but no signs of foxes. Foot below the snow's surface, Molly found her trap and proceeded to reset it. Carefully covering the trap with a very little light snow, and smoothing it nicely over, she chipped off bits of reindeer meat from a scrap she had brought with her, scattering them invitingly around. The thing about us was a very quiet one and wintry in the extreme. Long, low hills stretched out on every side of the bay, and the whole earth was a great snow heap. The sky and cloud effects were charming, fading sunshine on the hilltops making them softly pink, and very lovely, but with deep reddish purple tints overall as the sun ball disappeared. Then after another, four fox traps in different places were reset by Molly, while I mushed on behind her. At last we saw the dog team and Mookie coming on the bay. Five dogs he had hitched to a sled, and each wore a tiny bell at its throat, making a pretty din as they trotted. When the woman had finished her trapping, we both climbed into the sled, the native running and calling to the dogs, and they started for home. It was not a long ride, probably not more than a mile and a half as we went, but while tramping through the snow crust to the traps, it seemed much longer. I now thoroughly enjoyed the novel ride. In the dusky twilight the dogs trotted cheerfully homeward, obeying the musical calls of their driver, and the little bells jingled merrily. Darker and more purple grew the skies until they tinted the snow over which we were passing, and by the time we had halted before the hotel door, it was really night. By the clock it was fifteen minutes past four, and the thermometer registered fifteen degrees below zero. Then we toasted our feet before the big heater, removed and shook out our frosty furs, and answered the two children's questions. To these Molly gave her explanations in Eskimo, and I told of the ptarmigan tracks I had seen on the snow drifts. Sunday, January 6th. Yesterday I moved into the little southeast room which was formerly Miss Jay's. It has pretty paper on the walls, and a small heater in one corner, besides a single cot, and I soon settled quite comfortably. The room with the bunks was needed for the men, of whom there are so many most of the time. The room I now have has a south window, but not a double one, and gets heavy with frost, which remains on the panes. But I can have a fire when I want one, as the stove burns chips and short wood, of which there are always quantities in the shed. B tells me to use all the wood I want, as there is no shortage of fuel, nor men to haul and cut it, which I think is very kind. A little fire while I am dressing nights and mornings, however, is all I shall try to keep burning. Miss Jay came with Ivan, bringing several native children to visit their parents for a few hours, but took them back with her after supper when the meeting was over, which she had held in the kitchen. We had sixteen to supper, including natives. Afterward we went down to the beach to see the party off for the home. Ivan led the dogs, five in number, hitched to the big sled. Miss Jay ran alongside, the visiting preacher at the handlebar, and the little children on the sled. After watching them off, we came home and then took a walk of a mile out upon the ice on the White Mountain Trail, which was in fairly good condition. There were six of us. When we got back to the house, I played by request on the organ for the three Swedish visitors from Council. The weather is bright and beautiful, and sixteen degrees below zero. Monday, January 7th. The boys came in from their stampede to the creeks, and M says they staked us all rich if there is anything good in the ground. My claim is number ten below discovery on H Creek, and sounds well, if nothing more. Of course we women are all much elated and talk of our claims very glibly, but a few sunken prospect holes will tell the story of success or failure better than anything else. This has been a busy day in the house until I went at half past two in the afternoon to Molly's to find her ill in bed with a very bad throat. I gave Ginny and Charlie two hours of my time and went home to return in the evening at Molly's request. The poor woman was suffering severely, and I did what I could for her, rubbing her throat with camphorated oil and turpentine and wrapping it in thick, hot flannels. Then I assisted her to bed, rubbing her aching bones, and left her less feverish than when I went in. The thermometer is above zero and the weather is pleasant. Two men from Topcock came in to see the recorder's books and searched all through them without finding what they wanted and expected to find, and then went away with sober and disappointed faces. Curses not loud but deep come to our ears each day about the commissioner's work of recording, and many say he is now deep in dissipation at Nome, instead of attending here to his business as he should. Miners declare him unfitted in every way for his position and affirm that they will depose him from office. I went out this morning and bought a student lamp at the store paying six dollars and a half for it. This, with my case of coal oil, will light my room nicely, besides giving a good deal of heat. The marshal and men are home from the Koyuk River after four weeks of winter mushing and saying nothing about their trip. They did not manage to pull harmoniously together, and Mr. L. returned before them. January 9th. When I went to date to the hotel to teach my pupils, I found the men in the room cleaning the big heater, and ashes and dirt drove us out of the place. So we went upstairs to another room in which Molly sometimes sows, and where we found her at work on a white parkie for the musician. I played with Jenny for a time before the lesson, and Aki took came in on an errand, while Polly, the Eskimo servant, jabbered in a funny way and wobbled over the floor like a duck, as is her habit when walking. This girl is short, fat and shapeless, with beady black eyes and a crafty expression, certainly not to be relied on if there is truth and physiognomy. At the hotel, all is excitement and bustle, getting the men off for the Kuskakwim River, where the new strikes are reported. Strong new sleds have been made by the natives, grub is being packed, and dogs gotten into condition. Besides a thousand other things which must be done before the expedition is ready to start. Seeing them make such extensive preparations reminded me that perhaps I might get the men to carry my paper and stake something for me, so plucking up my courage, I asked the promoter of the expedition, whom I know, if I could do this, and was readily given permission. In a few minutes, paper, pen and ink were brought in, a clerk was instructed to draw up the paper in proper shape, which he did, and it was signed and witnessed in due form. Molly subscribing her name is one of the witnesses. For this I tendered my heartiest thanks, and ran home with a light heart, already imagining myself a lucky claim owner in a new and rich gold section on the Kuskakwim. The party of five men are to leave tomorrow morning for the long trip of several hundred miles over the ice and snow. Molly advises me to have another pair of mucklucks made smaller, and to keep these I am wearing for traveling, when I will wear more inside them. So I will take my materials over tomorrow and she will have Alice cut and sew them for me. I hope they will not make my feet look so clumsy as do these, my first ones. January 10th, this was a cold and windy morning, so the men at the hotel could not start out for the Kuskakwim as they intended. Some men came to the mission to see if they could rent the old schoolhouse to live in, the doctor and his plucky little wife having left some weeks ago for a camp many miles east of Chienic. After looking it over, the men have concluded to take it and move in soon. There are no buildings to buy or rent in this camp, nor anything with which to build, so it is hard lines for strangers coming to Chienic. This afternoon Alma went over with me to the hotel to stitch on Molly's sewing machine, and I carried the deerskin for my new footgear, which Alice will make acceptably, no doubt, as she is very expert. Mr. H., two natives and two white men, were here to supper tonight on their way to Nome by dog team, and are wishing to start at three in the morning in order to make the trip in two days. M and L are also here, so we had seven men to supper. We had fried ham, beans, stewed prunes, tea, and bread and butter. This morning it was two degrees below zero, with a strong cold wind. Tonight it is fourteen degrees below zero with no wind, and is warmer now than then. No moonlight till nearly morning, but the stars shine brightly. January eleventh. Mary sat up all night baking bread, and starting the men off for Nome between three and four in the morning. I got up at nine o'clock and enjoyed the magnificent sunrise. I went out with Ricka while she tried at the three stores to find a lining for her fur coat, but one clerk told us that no provision for women was made by the companies, and they had nothing on their shelves she wanted. At the hotel store she found some dark green calico at twenty-five cents a yard, which she was obliged to take for her lining. While I gave Jenny her lesson, her mother came from her hunting and had shot six ptarmigan, having hurt her finger on the trigger of the gun. Molly studies a little while each day when Jenny has finished her lesson. There is a sick Eskimo woman here now, who was brought in from the reindeer camp yesterday, and Molly has her upstairs in the sewing room on a cot. Mary, the nurse, went over with me to see her and says she has rheumatic fever. She seems to be suffering very much and cannot move her hands or limbs. January twelfth. At eight o'clock today, the thermometer stood at forty-one degrees below zero, but registered thirty-two degrees during the middle of the day, and the houses are not so warm as they have been. When I called for Jenny at the hotel today, I found her crying with pain in her leg, so she could not take a lesson. But I sent out for little Charlie, who came running to me without stretched arms. He is a dear little child, and I'm getting very fond of him. It is some weeks since Jenny first began crying occasionally with pain, and her parents cannot understand it unless it is caused by a fall she had on the steamer coming from San Francisco last summer, and of which they thought nothing at the time. I sincerely hope she is not going to be very ill, with no doctor nearer than White Mountain. The sick woman still suffers, though they are doing what they can for her. The captain requested me to bring our medical books over, or send them, that he can look up remedies and treatment of rheumatic fever, for that is what she no doubt has. While seated at the organ an hour later, in came the storekeeper and his clerk, followed soon after by the captain and musician. Then we had music and solos by the last named gentleman, and the knitting needles kept rapidly flying. At eleven o'clock they went out into the intense cold, which sparkled like diamonds, but which pinched like nippers the exposed faces in hands. Here is another cold, quiet day, with the thermometer at 35 degrees below zero, and it is a first class one to spin by the fire. We have read, slept, eaten, and fed the fires, with only one man, three girls, and myself in the house. At ten in the evening, G and B came in from a five days mushing trip on the trails, being nearly starved and frozen. They were covered with snow and icicles, their shirts and coats stiff with frost from steam of their bodies, as they ran behind the sled to keep warm. A hot supper of chicken, canned, coffee, and bread and butter was prepared in haste for them, and they toasted themselves until bedtime. End of Chapter twenty-one. Chapter twenty-two of A Woman Who Went to Alaska by May Kellogg Sullivan. This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. This recording by Karen Cummins. Chapter twenty-two The Little Sick Child. The winter is rapidly passing, and so far without monotony, though what it will bring to us before spring remains to be seen. Little Ginny has been suffering more and more with her leg of late, and her papa sent for the doctor at White Mountain, who came today by dog team. The child's mother has had a spring cot made for her, and she was put to bed by the doctor, who says the knee trouble is a very serious one, and she must have good nursing, attention being also paid to her diet. The Eskimos are all exceedingly fond of seal and reindeer meat, and Ginny's anti-apoc, or grandmother, will often bring choice tidbits to the child at bedtime, or between meals, when she ought not to eat anything much less such hearty food. When the little child sees the good things, she of course wants them, and having been humored in every whim, she must still be, she thinks, especially when she is ill. A problem then is here presented, which I may help to solve for them. Ginny and I are growing very fond of each other, and she will do some things for me which she will not do for others who have obeyed her wishes so long. I begin by round about coaxing and reasoning, and get some other idea into her mind, until the plate of seal meat is partially forgotten, and does not seem so attractive at nine in the evening, as when presented with loving smiles by her old grandmother, who does sometimes resent the alternative but is still exceedingly solicitous that the little girl should recover. As grandmother understands English imperfectly, Molly is obliged to reiterate the doctor's orders in Eskimo, making them as imperative as possible, and the poor old Eskimo woman goes home with the promise that Ginny shall have some of the dainties at mealtime on the morrow. In appearance, grandmother is still somewhat rugged, being a large woman, with an intelligent face, which expresses very forcibly her inner feelings, and being probably somewhere between sixty and seventy years of age. Her husband, who has been dead only a year or two, was much beloved by her, and no reference to him is ever made in her presence, without a flow of tears from her eyes. Her love of home and kindred seems very strong, and her devotion to little Ginny amounts almost to idolatry, so the solicitude expressed by the good woman is only a part of what she really feels, but which is shown in hundreds of ways. When the doctor settled the little girl in her bed, she adjusted a heavy weight to the foot on the limb, which has given her so much trouble, and now the grief of Molly and her mother is unbounded. Poor old grandmother wipes her eyes continually, leaving the house quickly at times to rush home and mourn alone, as she is so constrained to do, her sorrow for her darling's sufferings being very sincere. Later she comes in after doing her best at courage building, tiptoes her way in to see if her pet is sleeping or awake, and bringing something if possible, with which to amuse or interest the invalid. However great is the grief of the women, that of the child's papa is equally sad to see, and he, poor man, is forced to face the probability of a long and dreary winter, if not a lifetime of suffering for his darling child. One cannot help seeing his misery, though he tries like a trojan to hide it, and keeps as cheerful as possible to encourage others. He is always an invalid himself. The main topic of interest to Jenny now is the little stranger who has come to live with her anti-Apoc, and whom she is so desirous of seeing, that she almost forgets her trouble and suffering, asking constantly about its size, color, eyes, hair, hands and feet. She counts the days before she can see it, and puzzles greatly over the fact of its not possessing a name, her big black eyes getting larger and blacker, as she wonders where one will be found. Little Charlie is allowed in to see Jenny at times, and wonders greatly to find her always in bed, asking many questions in his childish Eskimo treble, and patting her hands sympathetically, while standing at her side. Mama, said he the other day to Molly and Eskimo, with a pleased smile on his face, and when the two were alone. The lady loved me. How do you know? asked Molly. Because, he said shyly, putting his little arms about her neck. Because she kissed me. Whereupon Molly did the same, and assured him of her own love, always providing, of course, that he was a good boy and did what Papa and Mama told him to do. This conversation Molly reported to me a few days after it took place, and I assured her with tears welling up in my eyes that the little child had made no mistake. Strange action of the subjective mind of one person over another, even to the understanding by this Eskimo baby of a stranger heart, and that one so unresponsive as mine. The child, deprived as he was of an own mother's love, still hungered and thirsted for it, and he was quick to discern in my eyes and voice the secret for which he was looking. How I should enjoy giving my whole time to these two children, and they really do need me to teach and care for them. But I am dividing myself between them and the mission, and the winter days are very short. The thermometer today registered 14 degrees below zero, against 28 yesterday, and 30 below the day before that. Mr. H has returned from Nome, bringing me a package of Kodak films sent from Oakland, California, last August, and which I never expected to receive after so long a time. I was delighted to get them, and now I can Kodak this whole district above and below. Molly is trying to study English a little, but with many interruptions on every hand. The big living room is light and warm, our only study place, and yet the rendezvous of all who care to drop in, regardless of invitations, making it somewhat difficult for us to concentrate our attention on the lessons. The Marshall, the bartender, the clerks, cooks, minors, natives, strangers, and all come into this room to chat, see and inquire for Ginny, play with Charlie, and get warm by the fire. Here is an opportunity of a lifetime to study human nature, and I am glad, for it is a subject always full of interest to me, though I frequently feel literally choked with tobacco smoke and wish often for a private sitting room. Sunday, January 20th. We are snuggled indoors by the fires under the most terrible blizzard of the season so far, with furious gales, falling and drifting snow, and intense cold. It is impossible to keep the house as warm as usual, and I have eaten my meals today dressed in my fur coat, my seat at table being at the end with my back close to the frosty north window. Though this is the place of honor at the board, and the missionary seat when he eats in the mission, still it is a chilly birth on occasions, and this is decidedly one. The dining room contains, besides the north window, one on the south side as well, and though both are covered with storm windows, the frost and ice is several inches thick upon the panes, precluding any possibility of receiving light from either quarter unless the sun shines very brightly indeed, and then only a subdued light is admitted. During the night the house shook constantly in the terrific gale, rattling loose boards and shingles, and I was kept awake for several hours. At night I am in the habit of tossing my fur coat upon my bed, for the warmth there is in it, as I am not the possessor of a fur robe, as all persons should be who winter here. Furs are the only things to keep the intense cold out in such weather as we are now having, but with some management I get along fairly well. A reindeer skin not in use from the attic makes my bed soft and warm underneath, my coat over my blankets answers the same purpose, and the white fox baby robe from the old wooden cradle upstairs makes a soft warm rug on the floor upon which to step out in the morning. Wool slippers are never off my feet when my mucklucks are resting, and I manage by keeping a supply of kinlings and small wood in my box by the stove to have a warm fire by which to dress. These days we do not often rise early, and ten o'clock frequently finds us at breakfast, but we retire correspondingly late, and midnight is quite a customary hour lately. Today we pass the time in eating, sleeping, singing, and reading. A visiting Swedish preacher came over a few days ago from the home and is stormbound in the mission. He is a large heavy man with a hearty voice and hand grip, and is a graduate of Yale College, using the best of English, having filled one of the vacant gnome pulpits for several weeks last fall before coming to Goloven. Today he has read one of Talmadge's sermons to us, and we have sung gospel songs galore in both Swedish and English, with myself as organist. When this is tired of, the smaller instruments are taken out, and Rika has the greatest difficulty in preventing Alma from amusing the assembled company with her mandolin solo. Johnny, get your hair cut. The young lady's red lips growing quite prominent while she insists upon playing it. Good music is always acceptable, Rika, and on Sunday as well as on any other day, so I cannot see why you will not let me play as I want to. I do not think it a sin to play on the mandolin on Sunday. Do you, Pastor F? asked Alma of the preacher, appealingly and in all innocence. What could he say to her? He laughed. Oh, no, said Rika. I do not say that mandolin music is sinful on Sunday, and if you would play nearer my God to thee, or some such piece and not play Johnny, I should not object. And she now looked at the preacher and me for reinforcements. Alma is not, however, easily put down, and the contest usually winds up with Rika going into the kitchen, where she cannot hear the silly strains of Johnny, which Alma is picking abstractedly from the strings of the instrument, while the preacher continues his reading, and I go off to my room. Mr. Q, a Swedish missionary, and his native preacher called Rock, have arrived from Unalaklik with the two visiting preachers at the home, and they held an evening service in the schoolhouse, which was fairly well attended. There were seven white men, the three women in this house and myself, besides many natives of both sexes. Grandmother was there with Alice, Aggie Tuck and others, and the missionary spoke well and feelingly in English, interpreted by Rock into Eskimo. One of the preachers sang a solo and presided at the organ. Some of the native women present had with them their babies, and these, away from home in the evening, contrary to their usual habit, cried and nestled around a good deal, and had to be comforted in various ways, both substantial and otherwise, during the evening. But the speakers were accustomed to all that, and were thankful to have as listeners the poor mothers, who probably could not have come without the youngsters. Considerable willpower and auto-suggestion is needed to enable me to endure the fumes of seal oil, along with other smells which are constantly arising from the furs and bodies of the Eskimos, made damp perhaps by the snow which is lodged upon them before entering the room. Fire we must have. Those who are continually with the natives in these gatherings do get acclimated, but I am having a hard struggle along these lines. The three Swedish and one Eskimo preacher left today for the home, after I had taken a Kodak view of them and their dog team. As the wind blew cold and stiffly from the northwest, they hoisted a sail made of an old blanket upon their sled. There are many who are ingenious and who are glad to help the sick child, Jenny, ask her time pleasantly, and among them is the musician. Being a clever artist as well as musician, he goes often to sit beside Jenny, and then slate and pencils are brought out and the drawing begins. Indian heads, Eskimo children in fur parkies, summer landscapes, anything and everything takes its turn upon the slate, which appears a real kaleidoscope under the artist's hands. Jenny often laughs till the tears run down her face at some comical drawing or story, or the musician's efforts to speak Eskimo as she does, and both enjoy themselves immensely. Yesterday Molly went out to hunt for Tarmigan. She is exceedingly fond of gunning, has great success, and she and the child relish these tasty birds better than anything else at this season. Aggie Tuck is also a good hunter and trapper, and brought in two red foxes from her traps yesterday when she came home from her outing with Molly. Little Charlie ran up to Molly on her return from her hunt and cried in a mixture of Eskimo and English, Foxes, Pea-look, Mama! meaning to ask if she did not secure any animals, appearing disappointed when told by his Mama, for such she calls herself to the child, that she did not find anything today but Tarmigan. It was twenty degrees below zero this morning, and the sun was beautifully bright. The days are growing longer, and it is quite light at eight o'clock in the morning. The short days have never been tiresome to me, because we have not lacked for fuel and lights and have kept occupied. One of the commissioners and two or three other men have been trying for a long time to get their meals here, but the girls have pleaded too little room and other excuses until now the commissioner has returned and renewed his request. Today he came over and left word that he and two others would be here to six o'clock supper, at which the girls were wrathy. I guess he will wait a long time before I cook his meals for him, sputtered Alma, who disliked the coming of the official to the house, and under no consideration would she consent to board him. My time is too short to cook for a man like that, declared Mary, with a toss of her head, as she settled herself in the big arm chair in the sitting room. And poor Rika, whose turn it was this week to prepare the meals, found herself in the embarrassing position of compulsory cook, for at least two of the men she most heartily despised in the camp, and this too under the displeasure of both Alma and Mary. What shall I do, groaned Rika, appealing to me in her extremity? Will you sit at the table with them tonight, Mrs. Sullivan? Because Alma and Mary will not, and I must pour the coffee, oh dear, what shall I have for supper? And the poor girl looked fairly bowed down with anxiety. Oh, never mind them, Rika, said I. Just give them what you had intended to give the rest of us. I suppose they think this is a roadhouse, and if so, they can as well board here as others. But if Alma refuses to take them, I do not see what they can do but keep away, argued I, knowing both Alma and Mary too well by this time to expect them to change their verdict. As indeed I had no desire for them to do. I'm sure it is not a roadhouse for men of their class, growled Alma, biting her thread off with a snap, for she was sewing on Molly's dress and did not wish to be hindered. I'll not eat my supper tonight till they have eaten, will you, Mary? Indeed I will not, was the reply from a pair of very set lips, at which Rika and I retired to the kitchen to consult together and prepare the much talked of meal. Then I proceeded to spread the table with a white cloth and napkins, arrange the best chairs, and make the kitchen as presentable as I could with lamps, while Rika went to work at the range. We had a passable supper, but not nearly so good as we usually have, for the official had not only taken us by surprise, but had come unbidden and was not, by the express orders of the business head of the restaurant firm, to be made welcome. At any rate, Rika and I did the best we could under the circumstances, the meal passed in some way, and the official then renewed his request to be allowed to take all his meals in the mission, meeting with nothing but an unqualified refusal, much to his evident disappointment. I doubt very much now the probability of my getting any more copying to do for him, as he says I could have persuaded Alma to board him if I had been so inclined, but then I never was so inclined and have about decided that I do not want his work at any price. January 25th. This has been a very cold, windy day, but three of the men came in from prospecting on the creeks, and have little to report. To think of living in tents, or even native igloos, in such weather for any length of time whatever, is enough to freeze one's marrow, and I think the men deserve to strike it rich to repay them for so much discomfort and suffering. Mr. L. and B. walked to the home and back today, 24 miles in the cold. I bought two more fox skins of the storekeeper with which to make my coat longer. Mr. H. and Ms. J. came to hold a meeting in the kitchen for the natives, and Molly interpreted for them, as Ivan was not present. They all enjoy singing very much, and are trying to learn some new songs. Contrary to my expectations, they learn the tunes before they do the words, which are English of course. Later the musician came over and sang and played for an hour and a half at the organ, which all in the house enjoyed. But he is worried about his friend, who was bitten by the mad dog, and is in poor health, he told us tonight. They have lately moved into the old schoolhouse, and like they're better than their former lodgings, which were very cold. There are three of them in the schoolhouse, or rather cabin, or it is an old log building with dirt roof, upon which the grass and weeds grow tall in summer. And under the eaves of the new schoolhouse, a frame structure with a small pointed tower. Sunday, January 27th. The missionaries held a meeting in the sitting room this forenoon, at which the commissioner was present. Not because he was interested in the service, Alma says. I suppose he had nothing else to do, and happened to get up earlier than usual. I presided at the organ, and Miss Jay led the singing. The day was a very bright one, but the thermometer registered 30 degrees below zero. The missionaries have taken Alma with them to visit for a few days, and do some sewing at the home. We all ran out upon the ice with them, but did not go far, as it was very cold. For a low mercury, these people do not stay indoors, but go about as they like, dressed from top to toe and furs, and do not suffer. But let the wind blow a stiff gale, and it is not the same proposition. Four men came from the camp of the shipwrecked people. The father of Frida, the little girl, being one. They say the child and her mother are well, and as comfortable as they can be made for the present. But in the spring, they will go back to Nome. End of Chapter 22 Chapter 23 of A Woman Who Went to Alaska by May Kellogg Sullivan This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. This recording by Karen Cummins. Chapter 23 Lights and Shadows of the Mining Camp Again the boys are starting for the Koyuk River Country. Although it is the 28th of January, and between 25 and 30 degrees below zero, nothing can deter Mr. L, who has made up his mind to go to the headwaters of the Big River regardless of weather. L, B, and a native are to compose the party, and this time they are going with reindeer. They will take with them a tent, stove, first sleeping bags, matches, grub, guns and ammunition, not to mention fry pans and a few tins for cooking purposes. Then they must each take a change of wearing apparel in case of accident, and make the loads as light as possible. B has made it a point to look well at his guns and cartridges, and has been for days cleaning, rubbing and polishing, while hunting knives have also received attention. The party may have in some way to depend upon these weapons for their lives, for their return. January 29th, 25 degrees below zero but without wind, and the boys have started off on their long trip up the Koyuk. The reindeer were fresh and lively, and when everything was loaded and lashed upon the three sleds, the animals were hitched to them. When, presto, the scene was changed in a moment. Each deer ran in several directions at the same time as if demented, overturning sleds and men, tossing up the snow like dust under their hooves, and fleeing their antlers about like implements of battle. Now each man was put to his wits end to keep hold of the rope attached to the horns of the deer he was driving, and we who had gone out upon the ice to watch the departure feared greatly for the lives of the men interested. At one time Mr. H, who was kindly assisting, was flung upon the ground while a rearing, plunging animal was poised in mid-air above him, and I uttered a shriek of terror at the sight, thinking he would be instantly killed. However, he was upon his feet in an instant and pursuing the animals, still clinging to the rope, as the deer must never, under any consideration, be allowed to get away with the loaded sleds. When one of the boys attempted to sit upon a load, holding the rope as a guide in his hands, there would be a whisk, a whirl, and quicker than a flash over would go the load, sled and man, rolling over and over like a football on a college campus. At this time the sun shone out brightly, tinting rosely the distant hills, and spreading a carpet of light under our feet upon the ice-covered surface of the bay. The clear cold air we breathed was fairly exhilarating, sparkling like diamonds in the sunbeams, and causing the feathery snowflakes under our feet to crackle with a delightful crispness. When the elasticity of the reindeer spirits had been somewhat lessened by exercise, a real start was made, and we watched them until only small dots on the distant trail could be distinguished. Something unpleasant has happened. M., the fin lender, told me this morning that he wants the room I occupy upstairs, and, of course, I will have to give it up. As the other rooms upstairs must be left for the men, of whom there are such numbers, there is no place for me except on the old wooden settle in the sitting room. To be sure this is in a warm corner, but there are many and serious inconveniences, one being that I must, of necessity, be the last one to retire, and this is usually midnight. For some time past I have been turning over in my mind the advisability of asking for the situation of nurse and teacher to Jenny and Charlie, and living in the hotel. Supplies are growing shorter in the mission as the weeks go by, and my own are about exhausted as is also my money. The children need me, and there is plenty of room in the hotel, though I am not fond of living in one. I have consulted Mr. H., who sees no harm in my doing this if I want to. Meals are one dollar each everywhere in Chinook, and most kinds of grub, one dollar a pound, while for a lodging the same is charged. To earn my board and room in the hotel by teaching and taking care of the two children, I should be making an equivalent to four dollars a day, and I could have a room, at last, to myself. This is the way I have figured it out, whether Molly and the captain will see it in the same light remains to be seen. Later, I ran over to see Molly and her husband, and to present my plan to them. They both ascended quickly, the captain saying he does not want Jenny to stop her studies, and she is fond of having me with her. Besides, her mother wants to spend a good deal of time out hunting and trapping, as she thinks it better for Jenny, Charlie, and herself to have fresh game, of which they are so fond, than to eat canned meats. I think it is better for them and shall not object to some of the same fare myself when it is plenty. I am very glad indeed of the opportunity to earn my board and room in this way, for my work will only be with and for the two children, and I love them very much. January 30th. A bad storm came up this afternoon with wind and snow. At the mission, one of the newcomers is making two strong reindeer sleds. He says he is used to Alaska winters, has been up to the Katsubu Sound Country, and is now going again with reindeer as soon as his sleds are finished. He is exceedingly fond of music and enjoys my playing. I wonder if he will offer to stake a claim for me. I will not ask him. January 31st. This terrible storm continues with snow drifting badly, and with wind most bitter cold. What about the boys on the Koyuk Trail? I fear they will freeze to death. I have finished six drill-parkies for the storekeeper, but cannot get them to him in the blizzard. February 1st. I found when calling upon Jenny today that her mother was sick in bed with a very bad throat, so I spent most of the day and evening there. I did all I could for Jenny as well as Molly, doing my best to amuse the child, who is still strapped down on her bed, and must find the day long, though she has a good deal of company. I had a first-class six o'clock dinner at the hotel tonight—that is, for Alaska at this season of the year. February 2nd. This is my birthday, and I've been thinking of my dear old mother so far away, who never forgets the date of her only daughter's birth, even if I do. I should like to see her, or at least have her know how well I am situated, and how contented I am, with a prospect before me, which is as bright as that of most persons in this vicinity. If I could send my mother a telegram of a dozen words, I think they would read like this. I am well and happy, with fair prospects. God is good. I think that would cheer her considerably. It is beginning to seem a little like spring, and the water is running down the walls and off the windows and rivers upon the floors of the mission, which we are glad are bare of carpets, the snow having sifted into the attic and melted. The warm rain comes down in intervals, and we are hoping for an early spring. Molly is really very sick, and must have a doctor, her throat being terribly swollen on one side. The pain and fever is intense, and though we are doing all we know how to do, she gets no better. Some men started out for the doctor at White Mountain, but there was too much water on the ice and they returned. February 6th. The man who made the two reindeer sleds for his kutsubu trip has gone at last with two loads and three reindeer. He wanted his drill-parky hood bordered with fur, as I had done some belonging to others, and I furnished the foxtails and sewed them on for him. Shall I stake a claim for you? asked the man with a smile the day before he left the mission. Oh, I would like it so much! said I, really delighted. I did not wish to ask you because I thought you had promised so many. So I have, he replied. But I guess I can stake for one more, and if I find anything good I will remember you. Shall I have a paper made out? I inquired, feeling it would be safer and better from a business point of view to do so. You may, if you like, I will take it, said he, and I thanked him very cordially and hastened to the commissioner to have the paper drawn up. It did not take long, and the man has taken it and gone. Being an old mail carrier and stampeter of experience in this country, he ought to know how to travel, and being a Norwegian he is well used to the snow and the cold. He says he always travels alone, though I told him he might sometime get lost in a storm and freeze to death, at which he only laughed, and said he was not at all afraid. Two years afterwards he was frozen to death on the trail near Teller City, northwest of Gnome. He was an expert on snowshoes or ski, both of which he learned to use when a boy in Norway. February 10th. The two young men, B and L, have returned from the Koyuk trip, having been able to travel only three days of the eleven since they left here, on account of blizzards, but they will not give it up in this way. Molly and Jenny are better, the doctor having been here two days. With a little invalid there is nothing of such interest as Apoc's baby, and as the child is well wrapped and brought in often to see her, she is highly delighted. She holds the baby in her arms and hushes it to sleep as any old woman might, lifting a warning finger if one enters the room with noise, for fear of waking it. Little Charlie cries with whooping cough a great deal and is taken to Aggie Tuck's house when he gets troublesome, as he worries both Molly and Jenny. Under no consideration is Charlie to come near enough to Jenny to give her the whooping cough, for she coughs badly already. She and I make paper dolls by the dozen and cloth dresses for her real dolls, which, so late in the season, are getting quite dilapidated and look as though they had been in the wars. Many natives are now bringing beautiful furs into camp for sale, and among others one man brought a cross fox which was black, tipped with yellow, another which was a lovely brown, and a black fox valued at two hundred dollars, which the owner refused to sell for less, though offered one hundred for it. I have never seen more lovely furs anywhere, and I longed to possess them. It seems almost like having a hospital here now, for we have another patient added to our sick list. Joe the cook is ill and thinks he will die, though the doctor smiles quizzically as she doses him, thinking as she does so that a few days in bed and away from the saloons will be as beneficial as her prescriptions. Today the hills surrounding the bay were lovely in the warm sunshine both morning and evening, pink tinted in the sunrise and purple as night approached. Male came in by dog team from Gnome, going to Dawson in the outside, so I mailed several letters. I wonder if they will be carried two thousand miles by dogs. The whole length of the Yukon and finally reach Skagway in Seattle. What a wicked world this is anyway. My two fox skins were stolen from the living room of the hotel last night, where I hung them, not far from the stove after having had them tanned, and forgetting to take them to my room. I can get no trace of them, and am exceedingly sorry to lose them. The captain thinks the skins will be returned, but I do not. The commissioner from council came into the hotel, and he, with the resident official, proceeded to celebrate the occasion by getting uproariously drunk, or going, as it is here called, on a toot, which is very truthfully expressive to say the least. February 18th. The doctor went home several days ago. Molly is better, and wore at the Sunday dinner yesterday her new gray plaid dress made by Alma, which fits well and looks quite stylish. I sat with her at the long table, which was filled with guests, employees, and boarders. A public place for me, which I do not like over much. But what can I do? The two commissioners are sobered, look sickly, and more or less repentant. The resident official declaring to me he would now quit drinking entirely, and buy me a new silk dress if he is ever seen to take liquor again. I had nothing to say to him, except to look disgusted. And he took that as a rebuke. The other commissioner was exceedingly polite to me when he came into the living room to bid all goodbye, and said, if at any time there was anything in the way of business transactions he could do for me, to let him know, he would be delighted. As if I would ever ask any favor of him. The weather is blustery, like March in Wisconsin. Molly asked me to go upstairs with her, look at rooms, and select one for myself which I did, deciding to take a small, unfurnished one, except for a spring cot, mirror, and granite wash bowl and pitcher. As this will be easily warmed by my big lamp, and it has a west window through which I will get the afternoon sun. I cleaned the floor, and tacked up a white tablecloth, which I had in my trunk, for a curtain. Spread my one deer skin rug upon the floor, made up the cot bed with my blankets, opened my trunk, hung up a few garments, and was settled. This is the first spring bed I have slept upon since Mr. H. took the velvet couch away from the mission. I found the boarded walls very damp, this was also the floor after cleaning, but my large lamp, kept burning for two hours, dried them sufficiently, and I am quite well satisfied. Aggie Tuck has been papering the sewing room with fresh wallpaper, and it looks better, but it has made a good deal of confusion all round, and there are numbers of people, both native and white, coming and going all day long. February 23. Yesterday was Washington's birthday, but quiet here. Today Molly and I took Jenny and Charlie out on a sled with Mookie to push behind at the handlebar through the soft, deep snow. Molly sat upon the sled, and rode downhill twice with the children, Mookie hopping on behind, but I took a few Kodak views of them, which I hope will be good. I also received some mail from the outside which was written last November. Some of the men in the hotel have tried to play what they call a joke on me. The steward of the house has a key which unfastens the lock on my door as well as others. So they went into my room and tied a string to the foot of my bed, first boring a hole through the boards into the hall, and running the string through it. This string, I suppose, they intended to pull in the night and frighten me, but Molly and I happened to go up there for something and found it. I was indignant, but everybody of whom Molly inquired denied knowing anything of it, and I said very little. Going to my trunk afterwards, I found that the lock had been picked and broken, a pretty severe joke, and one I did not relish as now I have no place in which to keep anything from these men. If they enter my room whenever they choose in the daytime, what is to prevent them when I am asleep? I took Molly upstairs and showed her the broken lock, and she stooped to brush some white hairs from her dark wool skirt. Where they come from, she asked suddenly. Then, picking at the reindeer skin upon the floor under her feet, she said, nodding her head decidedly, I know, he, Sim, come to me in sewing room. Hair all same this on two knees of black pants. I say, where you get white reindeer hair on you, Sim? He say, I don't know. Sim make hole in wall, and string on bed for you, Mrs. Sullivan. He make lock-pillock too. And Molly's face wore a serious and worried expression. Oh well, Molly, said I, don't worry, I shall say nothing to any of the men as they are mad at me now. Molly nodded significantly and said, Your fox skin's pillow, Mrs. Sullivan, Sim knows where, he never tell, sell for whiskey, maybe. And Molly turned to go, as though he were a hopeless case and beyond her government. Yes, Molly, I think so, but you cannot help what these bad men do, I know that, and do not blame you. My husband very sorry about fox skins, he cannot find, he no blame. And she seemed to fear that I would attach some blame to the captain. No indeed, Molly, I don't think your husband can help what they do. I should not have left my fox skins hanging in that room and will be careful in future. But if they come into my room they may steal other things and I do not like it. I know, I know, Sim no good, Joe no good, Bub no good. And she went away in a very depressed state of mind to Jenny and Apex baby. Of course, Molly told all to the captain who immediately accused the men in the bar room and they all swerved vengeance upon me from that on. So I suppose they will do all they can to torment me. We are having a sensation in Cheneque. The Blumen Commissioner is about to be deposed from office for unfitness, neglect of duty, and dissipation. And a petition is being handed around the camp by the Marshal, praying the gnome authorities that he be retained. The honest storekeeper refused to sign it, as have many of the Swedes. The Commissioner swears by all that is good and great to quit drinking and be decent. Time will tell, but I have no faith in him. Molly goes off in these days to look for foxes and to shoot Tarmigan, taking with her a dog team and a native boy or two with their guns. When it is bright and sunny, I take the two little children out in the fur robes on the sled, with a native to push the ladder, and I enjoy the outing fully as well as they. Jenny is put to bed again on her return, and the weight, a sandbag, attached to her foot according to the doctor's orders. The weather is very spring-like, and we have wind immolatuk, as little Charlie says when he has plenty of anything. Snowstorms are sandwiched nicely in between, but many mushers are on the trails. Molly gets now and then a fox, either wide or crossed, and one day she brought in a black one. Liquor is doing its fiendish work and camp each hour of the twenty-four. Some are going rapidly down the broad road to destruction. A few turn their backs upon it and seek the straighter way. Some half-dozen of the men headed by Sim and Bub are drinking heavily most of the time, gambling between spells for the money with which to buy the poison. Very late one night a party of drunken men pounded with their fists upon my door. She's in there, boys, said one of the men in a halting way, customary with tiplers. Must end the door, blurted another. Driver out in here, bub you fool! Yonder another, almost too sleepy for utterance. In the meantime I lay perfectly still. Not a sound escaped me, for although my heart beat like a sledgehammer and I was trembling all over, I knew it was best not to speak. After a little more parlaying, they all went off to finish their spree elsewhere. Next day I reported the affair to the captain, who, with his wife, in their ground floor apartments in the farther end of the building, had not heard the noise of the night before. Of course the men were now furious, denying everything, calling me a liar, ad infinitum. A fine-looking young man, a dentist and doctor, claiming to come from an eastern city, while sitting at the table last evening, after much insane gibberish, fell back intoxicated upon the floor, and lay insensible for some time. He was finally, when the others had finished eating, dragged off to bed in a most inglorious condition, to suffer later for his dissipation. Oh, how my heart ached for his dear old mother so far away! If she had seen him as I saw him, I think she would have died. It is better for her to believe him dead than to know the truth. End of Chapter 23