 Hey everybody, welcome back today to Retro Tech. I've got a Sony KV Consumer Grade television to go through with you. This is the KV13TR28. Now this is a U.S. model. Now this one is a pretty basic version of a Trinitron consumer set. It doesn't have a lot of inputs on it. It only has two composite video inputs. One of those is being on the front here under this swinging door. And then we've got one on the rear of the television along with a coax input which would be used for RF television. Now there is a mono speaker on this side of the television right here facing me. And it is pretty dirty. This one was donated to me by a fellow Patreon member named Romere and his friend. They came and dropped off some CRTs to not only be serviced, but we've also got two other consumer grade TVs to look at later. So thank you for that. Let's go over some of the information on this television. It does have a high black Trinitron tube inside. It is a 13 inch viewing screen area. It does support a remote control. I don't have the actual remote which is the Y116. I have a Y137A from another Sony Trinitron television from the same time period. And it works with this television. And that will be very handy because you do need a remote to get into the service menu on these televisions to make any kind of adjustments to any of the important geometry or other settings within the board. This TV does have a full service manual which I will put a link to in the description of this video so you can find out more information about it if you happen to own one. It does have the ability to be modded for RGB because it has a jungle chip. And that is something that we will possibly look at. But today we're going to look at how it works. And this is again the first time I've pretty much used this. It was donated to me so I haven't really messed with it at all. I thought it would be fun to come in here, show it off to you. The first thing you will notice is this one is very dirty. It's just got a lot of buildup of dirt and the screen has almost like a film on it of kind of nastism. So we definitely want to clean it up really well. But even before that I thought we'd go ahead and test it. And for the test I've decided to use a Sega Genesis Model 2. And that would be, you know, time period specific for this television. So it makes a good match. They both came out in that early to mid 90s. And so this would be an example of something that you definitely would use on this television. We're only going to be using it in straight composite. So I'd like to go ahead and just power the TV on. And we'll get an idea for how this looks and works as we power it on. Now initially our screen has come on here. We're in video input two which is the front input. And I'm going to use just the remote control to jump to a different input and go to TV video. And that is our RF. And then I'm using the other one on the back which is video input number one. And we've got our TMIOS 240p test suite. And we'll look at some test patterns here in a second. And some of you may already notice that we might have an issue here with our color purity on our screen, especially over in this area. But just to verify that we can pull up some color screens. And that should show pretty well that purity problem going straight through the middle of our screen. Now that is not going to be correctable through just the normal degauss that comes with this television. However, I do have a degausing tool. So we'll see if that will help clear anything up. But other than that, the TV seems to work really well. Now that red, that shows a really good line right there through the middle of the screen how we've got a purity issue. So what I'd like to do now is we're just going to go into the CRT bunker. We're going to disassemble this TV and look inside and maybe worry about cleaning it up some. And then we'll run our CRT patterns again. And we'll try to get rid of the purity problems here with some external degausing. So let's go ahead now and jump over to the CRT bunker. After further consideration, I'm going to start here with the degausing coil tool and then we'll go ahead and degauss our set. Now I'm sorry in the opening I did show it to you on a full white screen and it's really difficult from the camera to see the purity problems, but I can show it to you on an all red screen. It'll show up great on there. So what I wanted to do though is show you a little bit more on this tool first. This is this really high quality computer monitor and TV degausing coil. It is the largest that I've ever seen. I was going to show you these instructions just to start off, but if you just want to pause this and take a look at how it tells you to actually do it, you can do that, but for the most part you're going to power it on and make a circular motion and go towards the screen and then back away from the screen. So let's get set up now and we'll do our test and hopefully get the purity cleared up on our little Trinitron. On her screen right here you'll notice the big purple hue I'm talking about right through the middle. It's very difficult to see if I move the camera back. So we're going to just try to do it from where it sits right now. We'll zoom out a little bit and hopefully we'll be able to use this ring and I'll start back here at the camera and we'll go towards it first and then we'll back back away from the screen. As I back away hopefully that purity will get gone. Look at that. So that's just one session right there. Let's zoom in but there's no purple line through the middle of it anymore. As a matter of fact it looks crystal clear for red. Let's see what our other colors look like just by cycling through those real quickly. Green looks great. Blue looks good and now our white has cleaned up. So that's another good example of that tool having the right amount of power to get that purity cleaned up and that is really quick and a good thing again about this awesome degausing coil. Alright now that the purity is cleaned up we're going to turn it around and we're going to take the shell off and take a look at the inside of the CRT. I've gone ahead and removed the Phillips head screws. This particular CRT has six in the back that are marked with little arrows around the outside and then two near the input board. All those need to be removed and the shell on the back side should simply slip back and off. So just try to pull back towards or away from the screen backing and pull up and back and that is our innards of our CRT. Let's look in here closer. First off that is our deflection yoke along with our CRT neck and then our neck board right in here. Pretty basic Trinitron neck board. We've got a couple controls down here. Let's look around the back and see specifically what those will adjust. This one on the left will adjust our focus which I did notice we may need to adjust the focus on this. The screen adjustment will adjust our G2 voltage level. Right here is our H-stat adjustment which is for our horizontal static convergence. And then of course you've got the good old convergence rings, the first two sets. We'll adjust your convergence and the third set will control the purity of this television. And if we get down here in our A board which is our main board of course we've got a flyback from Sony right here. And this is our hotter deflection area where it says CCO it says horizontal deflection right here. This is most of our deflection and screen control capacitors are going to be in that area. And then up there we've got our video chips which that one I'm assuming that is next to the connection that goes into our neck board right here. I'm going to bet that this one is our chip that we could our jungle chip that we could insert RGB to but it could also be that one over there but most of the time it's going to be this one I think. On the main board here's our tuner. And then that other card right there is a closed caption card. It even says on there so it says closed caption that's how it's all done from its own board. And then over here is our power supply. It looks very similar to even the PVM power supplies but right here we've got voltages coming out to our main board coming from this connection. And this one is up here is where AC goes in and see we've got a fuse here. And then over here we've got probably the degausing coil if I had to just guess I'm seeing where that leads on to that looks like the degauser. And then this is our power on button most likely and that's pretty much it for the power supply on this one. One spot where everything goes to the board. Biggest thing we need to do is first get in here and clean this because this is really dirty. We just got our little mono audio speaker right here. There's that and that connects into the front of our board. This chassis is so dirty that I'd like to go ahead and pull it and then clean the shell and I might even remove the tube and clean around the edges of the tube and everything to just really give it a good cleaning. This is a pretty solid one piece you can almost take out at once on this particular television. Everything's tied together and you can lift up the deflection board down here a little bit and then pull back and the whole the whole board will slide out and we do need to remove our neck board and then the only thing I have left connected is our anode cap so we're going to discharge that according to the manual right now. There were some points I did disconnect just the degausing cable and then we've got mono audio disconnected from the main board. I'm going to connect the alligator clip end of my discharge tool down here to the metal frame right down there and that is a metal frame and we're not going to do I'm not going to stick that up in here. What I'm going to do is I'm going to remove the cap according to the manual and it's taken out right there and let's see if anything happens. No that's our anode cap and then up here will be obviously the tube will touch it also and nothing. So now we are safe to remove the rest of this. Like I said I will move this a little bit back to clear up a little space and what I'm also going to do is take this neck board with me and the neck board is wiggles a little bit and comes straight back and off like that. We're going to go ahead and take the tube out since there's not much in here left and that way we can get a good wash on the shell for sure and then we'll also probably be able to move this speaker it just slides right out of the way so we can clean up that with our ESD brushes and the way to get this out is there are four major screws in each one in each corner on the tube and if we look closer I can show you what those look like. They are again just a phillips head screw down in here and all we need to do is remove all four of those and then we'll be able to lift our tube up and I did notice I set my television here on an old blanket to keep the screen from receiving any scratches or damages by just laying it on there so please be mindful of that but let's go ahead now we'll just remove all these four screws and then this tube should just lift right out of place. Now all four screws have been removed and I will just grab this by its neck. I'm not going to put any pressure on the yoke just lift up and we can do two things we'll remove our shelf real quickly and we'll place our tube back down and take a look at it and if we get close in here we should be able to see. See look at the film around the edge here of dirt where our bezel was pushed against there so that way we can really clean our screen and hopefully improve upon that because there's a thick layer of just soot that has built up over time see the difference there and how much stuff is actually on our glass so let's clean that up. You can rub down the back of your tube I just want you to be really aware of this see this is supposed to be darker and shaded like that see how that's all painted around the backside of your tube so make sure you do not clean that off I don't recommend using really any kind of cleaning solution back here it's not necessary most of the time but if you want to you can definitely dust the back off with a cloth like a terry cloth and then you can come in here and clean in this area that does not have that black painted especially around your anode if you want to just make sure that you clean everything out and then you can apply some fresh dielectric grease here's a look at a connection point on the neck board and our little plastic spacer right here so let's get this cleaned and the obvious other thing we need to clean is the plastic shell but you can really clean this with anything that's safe on plastics now I've taken the shell outside and I've washed it off thoroughly with just some dish soap and then it's going to sit in the wind and the sun and dry out and then we'll bring that back in and reassemble the tube and the cleaned boards after we've cleaned both of the tube and the boards let's start with the tube here and we're looking at again a sony trinitron high black tube model number a34jbu70x and I'm using a clean dry paper towel here and I'm going to just start kind of up in the neck area and really rub around it to get a lot of that dust and build up off there first and then I'll work my way down and I have already dusted off my deflection yoke with my esd brushes and gotten rid of 90% of the dust on there and that's a safe way to clean off the yoke because there is dust build up usually in those crevices and it's a good time if you already got it out here to get it rid of it and also it's good to use these brushes to clean these cables while you can and of course you could use paper towels or something with that also but now we want to look at this portion of the tube under the deflection yoke and we're going to just clean it off it's got a lot of soot on it and I'm not again rubbing the darker areas I'm just going over the shinier areas of the tube that do not have that paint on them and we'll get a lot of that soot off there's just a layer of soot on all this after years and years of use a little bit on the bottom side of the tube you go over the label if you want and the degaussian cabling it's fine to rub that really with anything and now if we do want to rub over the darker sections we just need to do so extra lightly I'm using this softer cloth esd cloth and I'm just barely rubbing it making contact just kind of knocking off that outer layer of dust because I don't want to rub any of that off any of that paint very important to keep that paint in you can also rub over anything really with this cloth and now we're ready to clean the front of the tube and to do this I will be using just some paper towels but before I do that I want to make sure and get a lot of the outer stuff cleaned off I will be using sprayway world's best glass cleaner foaming action now this smells nice and of course I'm not affiliated with this company in any way it's just my preferred style and preferred cleaner so I like to start by spraying it on a fresh paper towel and then working that into the screen and oh yeah that's looking real good that's taken all that out now you don't probably want to use this kind of a cleaner if there is some kind of a protective layer on your tube like a anti-glare extra layer like on the bvms or any other crt if it has that pull away peel away layer you may want to try just using a little water and using that cleaner very sparingly if you actually need it but wow oh that's really nice I'm gonna do it one more time and like I said another thing about this cleaner is it smells so good it doesn't have an ammonia based smell or anything I really like it it ain't that stinky stuff you know what I mean all right I think that's pretty good I can see my reflection in it let me get you a little closer so you can see what it looks like I remember we could see that heavy-duty darkness up here where the film was just all over it from the dirt so it's pretty well cleaned up perfectly so I'm excited now now in order to keep my tube safe I want to go ahead and install it back in the clean front shell and that way it can be safe while I work on the other boards and we get those ready to install and then let's just drop it in where I can see the four posts make sure the cables are all clear and then we'll just install our four screws back in the corners and be sure if you do this don't over tighten these you can slowly tighten them but if you over tighten them you might crack your plastic which would be a real shame all right here we have our tube back in our shell and it is a lot cleaner and I'm excited now to get this turned on because I think it looks about 100 times better just check out how clean that is oh it's so much better than it was when we first looked at it well our circuit boards are dirty we should be able to just use our ESD brushes and some compressed air and that's what I'm going to work through I just wanted to give you a quick shot of what it looked like ahead of time and maybe just note some areas usually a lot of build up in this area on the cables make sure there's this is a pretty simple design board a lot of this stuff is out like see here's why see audio control so a lot of this is unpopulated audio amps since we're only in the mono audio we don't have a lot of parts there this is our vertical deflection block so it's see how it's nicely isolated here and if you had an issue with vertical deflection you should replace obviously these three capacitors and there's some other capacitors you could consider for a deflection kit this one and most of them will be labeled with a five in front and that entire block is kind of the deflection area in the high heat zone obviously so if that's a do you have any concerns with your TV these would be the capacitors to check out in the areas of the board maybe to look at if the screen looked terrible but I think the major thing we need to do here is just clean it out get it reassembled look at the screen after that and then we can decide maybe what we should do with this in the future now our board has been cleaned off I thought I'd just show it to you again all I did was brush it and use compressed air and everything came out very nice and we're ready to put it back in there with the tube we've got our tube you need to put these cables a little bit out of the way just let me get it lined up with a track down here there okay the last thing I'm going to do is just add some dielectric grease onto the anode cap and then kind of spread it around a little bit with my finger and then I'll reattach this to the tube and we should be ready for a test after that be slippery of course and make sure you get that down in there good clean ourselves up kind of make sure we're good and connected in there because we're not connected properly we could have some trouble so be able to push it down a little bit and feel it inside that anode ring wiggle it a little bit seems like it's good in there we need to turn it around and just power it on we should just go ahead and do that right now I'll plug in the Sega Genesis here one last look to make sure everything's plugged in and we'll plug the television in and let's hope for the best okay here goes nothing I hear it energize I feel static on the tube and I see an image starting to show on the screen wow yeah of course I don't have any audio of course I didn't install my speaker silly me I forgot that I had cleaned this little speaker I didn't even put it back well that should have to do is slide in here like that and then this needs to be connected down here into the board so we power this off and do that real quick well we've gotten the speaker plugged up just a mono speaker and it seems to be working quite nicely I'd like to do is turn the brightness up just a little bit oh yeah sonic's looking so much better and it's really going to be difficult to adjust this on composite only but I will do a check with the 240p test suite with you and we will adjust one thing and that will be hopefully our focus because I really would like it to be as sharp as possible and the best way to do that is going to be with a screwdriver in the back while we're looking at our 240p test suite and our monoscope pattern let's pull this pattern up I don't want to get that down to kind of low right there see if we can't get rid of that brightness there we go and my goal here is to kind of watch the center and try to see if I can adjust the sharpness so this is something most people should not worry about if you're not experienced because you do have to do this adjustment while the monitor the crt is powered on and there's a potentiometer that I'm just twisting and I mean it may not even make any difference on this one and I'm not seeing anything look worse or better honestly all right the tv's ready it's been running for a while looks pretty good but again we're still going to be limited on this set with the look of composite video it's not going to be very sharp it is going to give you a good composite video input and it also has a good rf input so there's really only two practical uses for this television the first being to keep it in its current state and just use it as something to play or demo you know analog video that's only in the format of composite video or in the format of rf or you could try to take this to the next level and rgb mod it and add maybe a scarred input or even bnc or rca adapters on the back and a switch so that you can access rgb and actually that would be a way to clear up the sharpness and you know honestly I could do it either way I could stand to have it in its current condition and just leave it to demo things that are only composite video and rf or I could rgb mod this one depending on how much you guys like this video will depend on whether we'll see this tv again I'll be glad to do more content on it if you'd like to see maybe an rgb mod or even just a demonstration of how to use the service menu I can do that also please let me know if that's anything that interests you with a comment below thanks again for watching today I really appreciate it and I will see you all next time with some more retro content