 Hey, what's up, folks? And welcome back to another 3D Hangouts. My name is Noel Averwies. I'm a designer here at Adafruit. Joining me every week is my brother Pedro. Hello. Good morning, everybody. I'm Pedro. I have creative tech here at Adafruit. And every week, we're here to share 3D printing projects featuring electronics from Adafruit. That is right. This is the show we combine 3D printing and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects. Hello, everybody. Welcome to the show. It is episode episode 427. It is January 17th, 2024. Hello, everybody. Welcome to the show. We're hanging out in the Discord chat room. If you'd like to join the Adafruit Discord server, you can join by going to the URL. Oh, what's the URL? Discord.gg slash Adafruit. It's up there in the purple banner. That's what I was working on getting up there. So it's up there. Hello, everybody. We'll take a moment to shout out everybody as I give a shout outs to everybody hanging out in all the chat rooms. We've got Mike P. We've got Squid.jpg. We've got MS Switch on YouTube. Hey, come on Facebook. I can get that to load and Twitch. Yeah, we are streaming on Facebook, LinkedIn, YouTube. Morning, Shannon. Hello, YouTube. Yep. We got some fun Neopixel projects today. We have some more camera projects. We have a fun snow-based project. And a handful of community makes all that and more on, you guessed it, 30 Hangouts. I'm going to kick off with some freebies and a coupon code. Let's start off with the tiers for the freebies. This week, if your order is $99 or more, you can get a free PCB coaster with the Adafruit logo in gold. If your order is $149 or more, you'll get the PCB coaster plus an Adafruit KB2040. It's a lovely dev board with the RP2040 chip and lots of goodies. If your order is $199 or more, you'll get the KB2040, the PCB coaster, and free UPS ground shipping for continental U.S. only. And if your order is $299 or more, you'll get all that plus a circuit playground express. Adafruit.com slash free for the details. These get automatically added to your order. And on top of that, you can use our coupon code. Today's coupon code, Fidget. I'll get you 10% off your total order. So that is the morning recap. All right. All right, let us know if you have any questions throughout the show in Discord or any of the sales channels. We can bring them in. But now, we'll take it. Sorry, the face of this plain audio, I couldn't mute it. No. Oh, Facebook. All right. This is this week's project. It is the 3D printed Stanford case with a 24 Neopixel Ring Feather RP2040 and this lovely ANO rotary encoder with navigational buttons. So this is actually the demo code on the product page for the original ANO rotary encoder, which did not have StemAQT. This version has StemAQT. And so that means you can control it over I2C with CircuitPython. So this is CircuitPython project. Shout out to Liz Clark for putting together the code for this one. But yeah, it's basically the demo code for that's in the product page for the original breakout board. So you got the scroll wheel that is basically a rotary encoder. It feels a lot like a classic iPod scroll wheel. You have four directional buttons up. And we made it so that you can use all four of them. So as you press, it's changing the color of the Neopixel like it's lit. And then you can just kind of see that the directional buttons are triggering the Neopixel that's closest to the directional button. So it's kind of like up, left, I mean, yeah, left, down, right. And then the center button lights them all up as you hold it down. So you can do that. It's like a little fidget toy. The gaming aspect of it, Liz thought it'd be a really good idea to add the LED chase game that we've done in a previous project. So if you hold down the center button and wait a couple seconds, it'll launch the LED chase game. So as this LED goes, the idea is to press the middle button when you land on either of these three um, lit Neopixels. So you got to wait and just time it right. Click it. You get the whole ring lights up in the color. And then as you advance, it gets the LED gets faster and faster. And it gets harder and harder. And as you advance through the levels, you get different colors. So here, it's a little blown out, but this is a more of an orange color. And when you beat that, your pixel becomes the color that you just beat. So here's a green color, let's see if you can get it. Now it's green. This is like a teal color. I missed it. And then it restarts. So I forget how many levels there are. I want to say there's like 19 or 20 levels. And when you beat all 20 levels, you're awarded with a rainbow. So that's the LED chase game. And I can just play this all day and fidget. This is great for fidgeting. Here's like kind of the middle where it's going to picking up the speeds really picking up. Let's see how far I can get. Oh, I missed it. So I was able to beat it just once so far in the week that I've been building this. Some things about the 3D printed case, you of course have access to the USB-C connector for charging the battery. It does have a battery that sounds portable. The feathers have built in battery charging over USB so you can charge the battery. It's 500 million batteries, so it's going to last quite a while. And then you have an on-off switch here, a little tiny on-off switch at the bottom. Yeah, this is a piece of black LED acrylic that I milled. If you don't have a CNC mill, you can 3D print the diffuser in this clear PLA. It has these little squares basically that snap fit into the grid. There's a 24 new pixel grid here and it's offset it a bit or there's some depth to it to kind of give it some space for diffusion. And then you would want to print it in black, the neopixel diffuser or the ring holder so that it isolates each neopixel LED. It looks a lot better in person because you get a lot of light leaking here over the camera, but it looks really nice in person. And you can press and hold the go out of the LED game and back into fidget mode. So you can kind of see how that looks. For this particular part, I actually use the concentric top bottom layers so that you get kind of like a diamond kind of effect with the little squares. So it's pretty fun. We've done a couple projects with this ANO scroll wheel. We haven't quite done one with the controlling a neopixel yet, so I think that's pretty cool. Maybe you can turn this into something else, something more of like an interface for like, I think Kirby had a cool idea of making it like a security lock or something. Maybe it's like a like a Simon pattern match pattern recognition game. You can do that. But we just wanted to get something pretty simple out there to start with for folks. And it's all in circuit python. It's all open source and you can scale it up to a different neopixel ring or a different neopixel strip, all that sort of stuff. Maybe you can add sound effects. That'd be really cool. That's one thing I wanted to add. But maybe next year, we'll just keep reiterating on it. Yeah, it's about yay big. I think it's 70 millimeters in diameter. It's kind of thick, but that's because it has, you know, all the electronics and the battery and stuff. You could probably maybe make your own PCB and make it really, really thin. But this works out pretty nice. You get a nice kind of grip handle on it to play with it with one hand. Yeah, so that is the demo. That's how it works. We can take a look at the learn guide if there's any comments. Just Brent saying that it was a little bit too close. So I got out of focus. Yeah, yep. Yeah, we can, I could do, what is the camera? I can switch the camera lens and do ultra wide. That way we can do like a real close up. There you can kind of see, oh, that looks a lot better, doesn't it? So you can see when you slice this part, I recommend doing concentric pattern because otherwise it's just going to like kind of do this pattern like this, like you see in the top here. Yeah, like that. There you go, Peter showing it off. But yeah, I did print this in white, but the white kind of really diffuses. Like it kind of leaks a little bit. So I think you get a better look with the clear PLA. And then the Black Lady acrylic is just one of the best diffusion materials for LEDs. This really press fits in there. But again, milling takes a while and you need a mill. Yeah, so that just press fits in. It's got a little bit more of a loose tolerance too, so it kind of pops out every now and then. But there you can see how smooth it is with Black Lady acrylic. Yeah, fun. This is a classic new pixel project, like making something pretty and also fun as a game. Anyway, that's that. Let me switch this back to wide. There we go. And I don't know, I would maybe add some, maybe a little triangle to indicate like the directional buttons a little bit would be nice. There's some other things I wanted to do, but I'm out of time. Anyway, let's take a look at the Learn Guide. Don't switch. Nice gift from Yanni. Yeah. All right. The Learn Guide is, we published this late last night, so it's up there. Overview page has all the parts. We have everything in stock, so you need the scroll wheel, the breakout with the Stemma QT port, the Feather RP2040 because it has the built-in Stemma QT port on the back there, 24 new pixel ring and a battery. Some other things you want to have is, oh, the batteries have stock. Oh no. You can sign up to get notified when that one's back in stock, but I think you could probably use a 350, a little bit smaller battery. Slide switch, Stemma QT cable, the short one, some silicone ribbon cables would I like to use, and of course, a USB cable for charging and programming. You're going to need some screws, a handful of these M25 by six millimeter long screws. They tend to work for just about all of the Stemma QT breakouts and feathers, so these are really nice to have. Definitely get more than your stock up on those. The circuit diagram is pretty straightforward. You only need three wires for the new pixel ring because we are using the enable and ground pins to do the on-off switch for the battery charging circuit. We are soldering the power to three volts. NeoPixels tend to want five volts, but the three volts works okay with under 100 pixels or so, so that's fine. Lamar approved it. We got a data wire going into pin five, and then, like I said, the switch goes to enable and ground, and then the easiest thing to wire up is the ANO rotary encoder because it just connects with the Stemma QT cable. Easy peasy. We have STLs and source files for the CAD assembly, so you have a step file and a Fusion 360 file because that's where we designed it in. Got a nice little CAD animation there. The biggest part is 75 millimeters by 30 millimeters, so it could probably fit on some of the smaller printers. Maybe you can print it on a resin printer, but none of the parts need support material for the filament-based printers, so that's nice. Then if you want a 3D model of, let's say, the ANO rotary encoder or the Feather RP2040, we have 3D models of those, so you can use those in your design. We have a GitHub repo link here in that section. You'll want to install the latest version of Strikapython on your Feather RP2040, so you can do that by walking through this if you haven't already. Then the code by Liz Clark, again, shout out. I would recommend using the download project bundles so you get all of the the seesaw library, the NeoPixel library, and the LED animation library. It's all nicely commented, so you can change it up if you'd like. If you'd like to change the colors, the speed, any of the features, it's using the debounce library, which is nice in Strikapython when you want to do something like detect a long press with a button. That's how you're able to switch between different modes, but other than that, everything's there. Here's a quick breakdown of how the code is working. We are using seesaw library to control the road encoder over I squared C with the default address. Here are the pins for the buttons. You can change this up if you'd like. We have the colors. We tend to use the Adafruit LED animation library to easily call out colors like red, yellow, those type of colors. It's easier to name them out than having to type out the hex value for them, so that's why we use that. Then in the loop, you can see here what the buttons are doing and then the different game modes, just two of them. That's pretty much it. Check it out. On to the wiring. We want to wire a slide switch to the enabled ground pins on the feather. We got a three pin wire for the neopixel ring going to the feather and then we just connect the ANO rotary connector, which is nice and easy. Assembly, we have a little PCB holder that has mounting holes built into it for the feather and the ANO. We start off with press fitting the slide switch into a little holder there and then the feather gets oriented in this way and then you use those M25 screws to secure it down into the PCB mount. The battery fits on top at this weird angle. Let me see if I can make it bigger. The battery tends to fit right here. You want to be aware of your clearance for your battery. You just want to stay away from the actual JST port. This is what I found to be the best orientation for the battery. Then the ANO rotary breakout goes right on top of that. Secure it down with those screws so you get this nice package. At this point, everything's assembled other than the neopixel ring, but you can test the circuit at this point. Then from there, you use the exact same mounting holes for the ANO rotary encoder to secure it to the bottom cover of the case. You just line that up. There's a little hole that exposed that's a cutout for the slide switch holder. That works out well there, so just easy to orient that. Get those four screws in there to secure it down. You have to fit the neopixel ring through the case itself and then just snap fit that and then line up the USB port with the cutout. It looks all good. For the neopixel ring, it has this little tab, so you want to insert it at an angle. There's only one tab, otherwise it would snap the other tab. There's some relief here on the edge there, but let me see if I can get a bigger photo so you can see how this is working. It's got a nice tight fit. If you want to pop it out, you can just get your finger or a spudger tool to pry it free, but otherwise it's not fit pretty good. You just want to make sure that the neopixel grid or rather the grid lines are going in between the pixels themselves because you can insert it offset. You're just flipping it and making sure that the orientation is good. From there, you want to adjust the wires so that they're kind of away because you do want to have this center cutout free of any wires because that's where the rotary encoder is going to go. Then this part here, you'll want to actually test the circuit out so that you orient the neopixel ring with the directional buttons. Here's what I'm trying to convey. I'm pressing the up directional button and I'm lining up the pixel that gets lit. You can of course change it in the code, but I just find it easier to just kind of rotate it. The ring holder itself, the grid isn't really registered to the case, so it can twist as you want as you want to orient it and match it up. That's all that's going on there. From there, you just press fit it into the case. There's a little ledge that'll stop the ring from going all the way in. Then you can install the ring cover if you want to hide the breakout. You can print that in a different color or change the design. I played around with different filaments with that one. Then the diffuser, you can see here it's actually white. I ended up changing it because this is what tends to happen. It looks kind of washed out in that white color. Again, I recommend using the clear PLA as opposed to a white PLA. That's pretty much it. If you want to mill the Black Alidity acrylic, you can take the stepfile. Depending on your CNC tool pathing program, you can toolpath it with a stepfile. Or if you have Fusion 360, the toolpaths are in that source file. They're already set to go. I'm using a 1-16th flat end mill to do the contour in a pocket. That's basically it. Yeah. That is the NeoPixel Road Refidget project in a nutshell. Oh, cool. Very fun. Yeah, Shannon and the YouTube chat saying that they just put all the parts in the cart. Excellent. The battery. Yeah, the battery. This fun project. Yeah. One thing to note. I do not have mine set up because I don't have the Stemma version of the Pano. That's right. This looks like it does not fit on there. I just could not put myself the soldering. It wouldn't work, actually. The older breakout doesn't have I2C. That too. That's the main thing. Yeah. So if you type in A and N. That and then the soldering and then it doesn't fit on there. It looks like, let me just wait. The parts will come in later today. But yeah, it's very satisfying iPod-like. Yeah. When it was still mechanical. Right? When it went to touchscreen. Right. Here's the breakout you have, the original one. Yeah. So yeah, it doesn't have the I2C connector. But here's the demo code. It's like the exact same project. It really is. I'm not sure who came up with it. This one's cheaper, right? The non-stemma. But you don't want that. You don't want that. It's $1.50. Yeah. There's no orientation for this, right? Yeah. The pins are in it. They'll only go in one spot. So if you look at the back here, you can see the pins are only going to fit one way for the scroll wheel. But yeah. There's your Stemma QTE. It doesn't matter which one you use when you connect it. Oh, it's definitely like $3 or something. Yeah. Yeah. It's $5. Oh, and Squid says he built his own version out of the old one. Oh, okay. Because it didn't have the I2C. Yeah. Yeah. It has a bigger LED ring. Oh, nice. Yeah. So again, if you want to go that round, yeah, this is like $3 cheaper. Cool. Build your own. Yep. Or if you want to make a, yeah, we have the LED chase game. There we go. It used an arcade button. Just kind of cool. It's kind of got this like side lit thing going on. Yeah. It's got this kind of cool. A little mini DJ. Let's put two of these together. Yeah, right. Yeah. Yeah. It was all fun. And I forget how many pixels it is. But yeah, it is scalable. You just tell the code how many pixels you have and it scales it up. Nice. This was a lot fun because you got like that big stompy thing. I guess you could use like a big arcade thing, like footstomp it if you want. Oh, yeah. Make it like a room. Or make it with a bigger one, the CNC. Oh, yeah. Yeah. We do have a lot of fun rotary encoders in the store. Very cool. Yeah. Oh, the kids can't wait for that part to come in. So cool. This one's huge. Yeah. It's really chunky though, right? It has like a big click. Kind of like a security safe. Yeah. Yeah, this one's cool too. All the fun choices. But again, this is just like a start off point in the project. So cool. Yeah. That's pretty much the project. DJ set for Ants. There you go. Oh, that's what I saw for the Pro Vision. It was DJ. Of course they have their app already. Oh, that's right. Yeah. We were talking about the Vision Pro from Apple earlier in the show. Before the show. And we were like, who are we doing? Real quick, Shannon is asking, what battery do you recommend since the 500s aren't in stock? I was saying the 420. You said the 320. So the only thing that I would worry about is the battery thickness. So I don't want it to be too thick because like it is just the right thickness, the 500 milliamp battery. So let me see 300 mAh. Oh, there's no thickness to it, right? Yeah, it's five millimeters thick. Let me see. How thick is the 500 milliamp battery? Oh, it's just a little bit thinner. But maybe the size will fit. Oh, and the battery cable's shorter too. That's what it is. I would have to try that out. I would feel the safest if you just waited for the 500 milliamp because I would hate for you to order the 350 battery and it turns out it's just too thick. So, yeah. I mean, it's up to you if you want to try, but I would say get, you know, wait. What other ones would fit a 420? I think this one's even thicker, right? I can grab one and just place it in real quick. Really? Okay. This one's 5.2. It really is. It's not too tight, but it's like the perfect height for the 500 milliamp battery. So I would wait for it. So we're comparing a 420 to a 500? Yeah, the thickness of it. Either a 420 or a 350. I don't think they seem the same size. Really? Yeah, 500 and as well. 420. If anything, it's like... Oh, maybe the 400 will work because the 400 is way slimmer and it would fit in between the Stem-AQT ports. That's the main thing is those Stem-AQT ports. The 420 would fit, dude. Yeah, what? It does? Okay. Yeah, check it out. All right. Do you want your overhead or what are we doing? I can make it bigger. Right, but once the feather is there... Oh, it goes on top. It gets way tighter. Get a feather. Yeah. I am now in this mode. Let's see if I can swap it out. All right. So here's a little quick disassembly. I just got my fingernail in between there and this comes off easily. And then we want to take off this. It doesn't fit, does it? It does not. Yeah. Do you see how tight of a tolerance it is there? It's because those... If you raise the standoffs... Yeah, I guess so. You would have to update the case. I'm going to have to update the standoffs because the 500 I have... It doesn't fit? No. No, it does. If you rotate the battery so that it's not over the JST connector, like in the photo, it should fit. The wires are on this one. Yeah. So wait for the 500. I just want to be sure. Yeah. Okay. It's because I have this little drop of glue to act as a... Oh, no, really? That's what stops it. I would say wait. Wait or if you got the ability to modify the CAD. I was going to say I may have to do that. Yeah, because you don't have a 500? Really? I mean the one I have, I don't want to rip off this. I mean I could. It's this little drop of glue that's messing with it. A lot of our projects use the 500 because it's like a good thin... That's why I don't have any more. So I just took off the road and you can see how I have this positioned. So it is at this kind of 45 degree angle and then it's avoiding going over the JST connector. And I still have like the default tape on there that works out really well. Let's disconnect it. Oh, that's right. And then the standoff is just in the way for this battery not to come off. So you kind of have to take the feather off. So I could do that. Do we have time? We have like we have maybe I'm going to give this five minutes and then we're going to move on. I would definitely add another 1.5 mil to the standoff. Yeah, the standoff. If the case can handle it. Look at that. Here's my 500. Again, this is an old stock. The newer stock might be thinner but I'll still do it. And the case is already thick as it is, you know. It's like all really thick. I did not think there was going to be a battery in it. I thought it was going to be a plug but... That's right. If you don't mind it being wired into your computer or a USB battery bank, you could just power it off USB. But we want it to be portable. Now it makes sense to be portable. All right. So I got this connected. I guess we could redesign the PCB mount to snap fit the the feather. But it's just easier to use screws when it comes to like designing because then you have less features to worry about. So you're always looking at this balance. You don't want to put the time in to make it snap fit and then you end up adding like some additional clips and things. So sometimes not worth it. All right. So will this fit? Yes. Yes. It totally fits. You can see here how I fitted it in there. This is a 400 battery. Okay. It just fits there. Let me go ahead and do this down. Do we have 400 in stock? Maybe you can check. So I have the 420. Yeah. I did not try the 420. I think the 420 is thicker. And I don't think it'll fit the 420 because you can see here that the pins are just barely over but thankfully not puncturing the battery. Yeah. You can see there's a little bit of clearance there. I guess you could snip off, snip the the pins on the bottom of the the rotary breakout, snip those off so that they're clean and they won't puncture your battery. Just in case. Like I said, they're not puncturing it right now but just to be safe or maybe if you're using the 420 battery. Yeah. So it definitely fits the 400. I don't have any 400s. Sort of your batteries. And that was more rectangular, right? The 400? Yeah. It's more rectangular. I used all of them up. Really? Oh my god. My last order, I only worked more 420s. So I will go in there and update these standoffs. All right. Because I'm gonna need it for mine. Really? Okay. Yep. You don't have a project you can rip it out of, I guess. Um, I can't think of one that comes in mind. Yeah. Like all the cameras, they all have 420s in them. Really? Yeah. That's true of mine, too. Yeah, here's mine. Yeah, it's a little, it's definitely thicker. Yeah, I have another about 500. Two and a half millimeters, something like that. I forget what project we ordered like two 500s because I was like, I don't know, I'm gonna need these one day and here I am. But like we said, the 400 milliamp battery should be okay. The rest is like. Yeah. And they're in stock. Yep. Even with the short cable, it tends to fit just fine. So these are great, too. All right. So we recommend the 400. 500 to the 400. Tested right here, live. Thanks, Janice. Sorry for making you guys do this. We want to make sure. So I still have to build this one. Pedro still needs to build his. And I'll definitely have a real kind of problems that you run to when you're designing a case. Different batteries. Stock, there's always change in stock, too. Like the batteries, the exact same part. Yeah. Suppliers can change on you. Yep. You can have a drop of glue that will totally. Completely. Like I got to go in there carefully, snip it off because it's like. You know what I noticed is our newer battery stock has the batteries. Which is really nice for like. For Strangrelief. Yeah. Yeah. For Strangrelief and for just like clearances for tight spaces. It tends to work out better. So this is the stock battery. It has like this tape here to keep the battery nice and the battery cable nice and short. So that's kind of cool. I really like how they started doing that. So just an FYI. FYI DIY. All right. Are we ready for prototyping? Yes. This week on, what are we prototyping? We got more camera projects. So it's a simple little one to do remote triggering by having an external shutter button. A lot of the intervalometers that we're used to for using cameras have this. So it's just so you can push the button activate the shutter without having to shake the camera. Especially for like low light situations where your shutter speed is going to be super low. You're going to get all that shake in there or if you're doing. I did a stop motion animation test and the same thing. Like you can see the the camera move slightly. Exactly. So this is a great little addition for like shutter or just generally not wanting you to have any movement in the camera. This external button that'll hopefully not move the camera as well. So this is a will be or the wire will be plugged into the A0. I believe you're able to do that. Yep. And I just punched some holes in this. You have access to all the ports. So your stem of port and your other analog stem of one in there too. So could we actually get all of these controls to be external like another joypad? I think Lamar we won't do that. That'd be great. Yeah, we won't. At least like the up and down arrows just so we can like switch the resolution or the mode that we're in. It'd be cool. But for now it's just the shutter. You know what? You could use the scroll wheel with the directional button. The I squared C with the stem of T port and then maybe control that way. So yeah, I think you can. Yeah, that'd be kind of cool. So what's inside the shutter button is the so inside here we have the stem push momentary push button. Yeah, yeah, it's a nice breakout that has like the button switch pre-soldered and then it has a JST three pin JST board right on it. I need to go grab my spudger tool. Oh, no. These are great. I love a spudger tool. This is mine. It has two ends on it. One end is kind of sharp tapered off. And then yeah, you got the same one. And then this one's a little bit more flat. Yeah, these are great tools. They help you getting this guy open like this, for example. Let's take a peek on the inside of this guy. So super simple little so super simple little stemmer tactile button here. So it's just a push button on PCB attached with the port on there. You can hook up your wire and no screws for this just little nubs that are holding in. Oh, great. Yeah. And then the top cover has a cut out for the button. And on the top cover, yeah, yeah, little snaps here, a little bit of strength from the printing. And then just these little aligners to have the cable push down on. And that just snaps it. So super simple. So very nice. Have a super simple little external shutter button. So the other thing that I was thinking of doing is maybe adding another tripod screw on here just so you can have it like elevated off, but maybe not. This might be enough since a lot of the inner perlometers when we use them on the camera, they're just dangling off the camera or just on the table. Well, I would say go ahead and add it just so that when you're filming it, you can you can pose it up on one of these tiny tripod like this, for example. Yeah. Yeah, that's what I was thinking. Yeah. Or you can you can use it as a handle and then using one of our quarter 20 to quarter 20, it'll be literally on the bottom of the camera. You know what I'm saying? So imagine this. Oh, I see. Click, click, click, click. Yeah. So that's definitely a really good idea. That way you can use it as a handle and the trigger button. Oh, yeah. Yeah. A lot of the gimbals have that where you have your control away from the camera. That's right. Yeah. Awesome. Yeah. Yeah. How many other things I don't know, maybe changing the shape of it just so it's molded into a hand, but I don't know. I would maybe round off the top there. So it's rounded. Oh, right here. Yeah, like just make it completely circle. You know what I'm saying? Yeah. Yeah. That way it kind of matches the roundness of the button. It'll extrude the radius. Yeah. That's the only thing. Or just, you know, round it off. So make those. I feel like it's a little bit more. Oh, the snap here. Yeah. Oh, you're right. Yeah. The PCB isn't round. All right. Well, speaking of PCBs, here's the product itself. It's how many? Five of them? You get five of them for the price of $750 because they have the breakout in the JST and the button caps. Then it comes in the assortment of button caps, but also it comes with the cable. So you don't have to worry about getting the cable. So it's all a kit for you. Did you have to snap them off, Ben? You did. You had these already. I don't know how you snapped them off. Okay. I don't know if you snapped them or if you used the saw to cut them. I think you snap them. I want to say you snap them off. Oh, that's a good idea. Kirby's saying to toggle flip switch cover. Oh, that's... Yeah, the toggle switch won't work. It has to be momentary. Oh, yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. DJ Devin is asking about BLE. Lamar said it does not have it. Yeah, there's no BLE support yet. And circuit Python, it would have to be an Arduino thing. So you definitely have Arduino support if you want to go that route. But if you want to stick with circuit Python, we haven't had BLE support yet with the S3 chip. I did not realize in our internal meetings that the circuit Python 4, this camera is way faster than the Arduino. Yeah, I upgraded mine. Oh my God. We've reached the point where circuit Python... Yeah, it has a really nice GIF and the Game Boy filter is really... And beyond that, just programming in it, you don't sit there and wait for all the compiles. Yeah, the frame rate is really smooth and buttery. Oh my God, it is. It's a lot better than you're doing it. I guess you could optimize or do we know one? I don't know. Jeff's doing all the filters in it. Yeah, is there anything you filter off of mine? So there's a lot of cool stuff coming down. There's the Game Boy. Game Boy and Retro. What do you say? O-C-C? I don't know. O-S-C. O-S-C. Do an O-S-C trigger. Yeah, look at the lovely grain from the Game Boy mode. It's called G-Boy. It's cool. Yeah. So, fun dithered filter. And we have yet to get our hands on the LED board. So imagine having, you know, this thing control the camera light. That'd be pretty cool, right? That might be a future project then. Yeah, so I think a shutter button is a good addition as we slowly roll out these like additional projects for it. Man, it would be so cool. I'm thinking like, oh, when you take a picture, it would do one shot with the only half of it. Like, you know how you do your photoshop thumbnails with the gradient stuff? You could do that like for real in camera with just the LEDs. Yeah, yeah. So you have this really cool gradient of a color that's shining on you. Yeah. And this, and the Circuit Python software here, it already has features control for the LED ring light. So that's cool. Yeah, it's great to go. Yeah, it's ready to go. Yep, so I will play around with that. Such a fun project. Doing doorbells and bird houses. Yeah. And do the detection of the bird, but we will take, snap a picture when like, here's audio or when the movement and we can have that triggered the camera and then IoT stuff. So over the internet stuff, it's really cool stuff coming down pipeline for these super cool little cameras. The Humbert. Humbert. We're just playing with our cameras now. I know. This colorize thing's pretty cool. It's like Predator, or not Predator, but... This is cool. The black LEDs, he said. Black LED. It's like a dark saver. Oh, Brent says it compiles faster. He has a platform IO in Arduino. Sweet. Oh, nice. Yeah, I'm going to start drafting up some case ideas for the Ring IoT doorbell project that we're going to collaborate with Brent. So that'll be Tom Monro. All right, folks. If you want to get any of the parts we talked about, discount code. Fidget for all your fidgety needs. I need to get another spudger so I have one in this room. I don't have to run out and grab another one. The spudger's in stock? It should be. Maybe not. We'll see. How do you spell spud? They are in stock. Spudge. They're in stock. Yeah, they're great. My favorite tool. Yeah, I find them better than this thing, the Jimmy from I Fix It, like it's too thick. Yeah, it's too big. I found it too thick. Yeah. Any hoodles? Oh, nice. Shannon added it to the part. Yep, cool. Absolutely must have. Yeah, it's a great tool. All right, we are going to move on to, I think, time lapse, right? All right. So I'm new to New England. I moved here 2023, January. So just about a year now. And I'm happy with snow. I've never seen snow in my 30 years growing up in Florida with Pedro. I've never seen snow. So I thought it'd be fun to take our IoT Canary Nightlight project and turn that into a snow mold. So here is our time lapse Tuesday video for this week. It's a no support, hinged print and place design. So you have these two halves. I have it here actually. And it's in fusion. I made the Canary and I just created this kind of generic shape of the bird outline. And then I split it in half and then added these hinges. So this is my first time making a snow mold, but there are like ducks. And you've seen the duck one because it's snowman. I got inspired by the duck one. I also saw that there's, you know, just a regular ball, like a snowball and snowman. But I wanted to reuse one of the designs I already came up with. So the Canaries need to work out the best. It was fun seeing the different types of snow. So there's like really fluffy snow and it tends to just disintegrate. So this snow is a little bit more wet so that it actually shapes better. And it's not like sand, you know. Pedro, you have your share with trying it out with sand. And you know, the sand wasn't wet enough. Well, I have dog pee on it. Right. Okay. So this is it. You got these nice thick beefy hinges that are printed in place. These are the surfaces that touch the bed. So just prints like that. No support material required. I would recommend, you use like really low infill. Surprise that you use such low infill. I usually see your basic 10% because I wasn't sure how well it was going to turn out. Oh yeah. I'm usually like at 3%, 6%. Yeah. How long did your print take? Was it like 8 hours? Yeah, I didn't see. This took, I think, about six hours. That sounds right. Yeah. And I would print it in your regular print set. Depending on your printer, right? If you got a bamboo, you probably print it fast. But this one, I tried printing it fast and it underextruded. So I set it back down to like 60 millimeters in a second, which is your kind of default speed. One thing I noticed is like when you use it, you really want to add more snow by not just scooping it like that, but like packing more snow in here. Yeah, with the sand. I couldn't get the tail to like, I don't know if it's like the way the tail is shaped. I guess it is. But when you're doing a mold, you don't want these kind of undercuts. So that's what's happening is like the tail tends to go inward that way. So when you try to release it, it always will come out. So that's just one of the things I learned by just trying it out, seeing that the mold, that's the only detail feature of this shape that doesn't come out, right? Is the tail, like it tends to come off. Because like I said, it kind of curves inward, inwards towards, so to release it. And you try to do it. Just packing it in, like holding it. Yeah. No, it's just the nature of the shape. Like it's going inward. So no matter what, it's going to rip it off. So as you kind of sway it open, it rips it off. Maybe if this wasn't hinged, I guess you could kind of shift it so that you lift it outwards, you know? But that's one thing I noticed. And just pack it here. And this ended up working well as a flush spot to like stand up the birds. As you saw in the video, we put a few of them up. Where is it? Near the end? Yeah. I put a few of them up in our little gazebo that we have outside of our apartment. Yeah. So they make a few of them. And they gradually get better, as you see here. This one really, really looks nice. And there's a little bit of flashing. Oh yeah. You know flashing. The edges. The edges, yeah, of the mold. So it was a lot of fun. It was a lot of fun experimenting with this material called snow. Yeah. So it was a lot of fun. Had a lot of fun doing that. And we have snow right now, so I can try it out. Keep going, yeah. The day after this, this was last Tuesday that I did this. Literally on Wednesday, we had a bunch of rain and all the snow went away. We just had some snow come in yesterday. It's literally why I couldn't shoot anything. Yeah. I wanted to shoot at the Polynesian and it was raining and it was cold. I'm like, I don't want to do this. Yep. So fun. I hadn't done this before, so it was a lot of fun. Maybe we can do some other fun shapes next time. I want to do a snowman in the snow. Or in the sand. Yeah. Sandman. I have the files up on printables. Or yeah, yeah. Fusion share link. I have the step file and the 3D, Fusion 3D file if you want to modify it. But that's what it looks like. Nice bird canary. Is that on my drawer full of batteries? Yeah. That's fun. All right. So that's the time-lapse. We haven't done our own time-lapse design in a while. Next up, we have some community makes. We have a handful of them. First up, we have a Keyblade from Kingdom Hearts. This was posted up by Gabriel and they made two of them. This is a no support print that screws together and has a couple of screws. Yeah. They printed in this nice gold and silver. So very nice. Very nice prop from, of course, Kingdom Hearts. They printed it with their CR10S4. That's a Creality printer. Very, very cool. After that, we have another remix for our heat set insert press. This was posted up by Camel. Camel made a custom soldering iron holder for the arm. You can see it looks like one of those USB-C powered soldering irons. Very nice. After that, we have a modification, I think, to the Raspberry Pi 5 3D printed case. This was posted up by Pulsar Nova. They added some little icon engravings for various ports. So like the power button, USB, looking good. Very nice. And of course, the Raspberry Pi logo, because why not? Checked stock. We have the fours in stock, like the 8 gig, the 1 gig, the 2 gig. Not fives though. Do you need a two-step authentic, two-step author for the four? Maybe. Any hodl? Thanks for Pulsar for doing that remix. And then here is a iPhone 11 pro bumper case printed in TPU or Ninja Flex. This was posted up by VagVag. They said, nice model, added my nickname to it to be more personal, printed in e-sun TPU, and it came out great. Here it is, all flexible, virtually indestructible. Run it over, and it'll be fine. So that's their name there. And that's got a little bit of infill. So this is that cool texture. That looks like this clear. I didn't know e-sun made TPU, so got a lot of options these days for TPU, which is great. I got some MatterHackers TPU that I used for, I think, some bumpers. Looking for somebody who's got the purple TPU. Yeah, right. That's the one thing about Ninja Fox. They had great colors. Fantastic colors. So many colors. I just have that, like a sacred spool. I have to use on something cool. That one in the sky blue, because nobody makes sky blue. I like the green. Their lime green was really nice too. They still make that one. The darker green they don't have. The forest green, yeah. All right, folks, that's pretty much the show. Again, before we go, coupon code is Fidget. You get an idea from DJ Devon saying to fill it with water to make dove sickles. Oh, yeah, and freeze it. Wait, it would leak, wouldn't it? Yeah, it would leak. Oh, yeah, you're right. But if you leave it outside overnight, I suppose it could freeze. If it's cold enough. Here it's just barely cold enough to freeze. It's 24 degrees Fahrenheit here in New England. Is it 37 or something? Wait, what? Our coldest here on Sunday, I think. 37. Then ours is going to be like 20 more, 20 less. I think the coldest site last year was like 10 or a single digit, something like that. Yeah, tonight it's going to be 19. Yeah, it's 40, and then tomorrow 72. Where's Kirby with his Wisconsin? Oh man, negative. It's negative or like five single digits. Yeah, Sunday is going to be seven degrees. Seven. And we have a high of 20s. It's five right now. Negative 11. Well, make this snowbird. Let me let me know. It was negative three in the morning. Yeah, I had fun shoveling snow yesterday. Yep, it's good workout. It's cool to be cool, but I just don't like how it's 80 and then 30. Yeah, you get a really big swing up and down in Orlando swings. You get to be all coated and hooded up, and then you go to shorts and sandals in the afternoon. Triple the laundry. Negative 20 in Montana. Yeah, got to build those snow. That was horrible. Yeah. All right, weather is weather. Thanks, everybody, for having fun with us while we do the show tonight. We invite you to come on show and tell. It's at 7.30 p.m. Eastern time. It's going to be hosted by Liz tonight. Come on by on the Discord server a couple minutes before the show and you can get invited with the StreamYard link at 8 p.m. Eastern time tonight is Ask an Engineer with Mr. and Mrs. Lady Ada, Full Hour of Open Source News, Hardware, Python, Newsletter, Eye on MPI, New Products, and more. Tomorrow's Thursday, John Park's workshop is on at 4 p.m. Eastern or 2 p.m. Pacific. Join Foamy Guy on Fridays for a deep dive at 2 p.m. Pacific or 5 p.m. Eastern time and wrapping back around on Sundays is Lady Ada Desk Stream at random hours on Sunday. Mondays are Circuit Python weekly meetings. Tuesdays is JP's product pick of the week. We're wrapping around back to Wednesday with our show and then Ask an Engineer and John Tell. They did the whole slew. All right, folks, we're going to call it. Thanks everybody so much for watching. We'll see you next week. Well, until then, remember to make a great day. Adios.