 Oh boy, you know, I'm not quite sure why I continue to do these things to myself. A box has arrived. Man, look at this box. This is a homemade special box right here. Oh, I really hope this survived because that's probably not an approved box for insurance purposes. I don't think they like homemade boxes. All right, it's opened up and oh gosh, this doesn't look good. I'm actually looking at the bottom of this monitor and this is the side that the label was placed on. So why the heck would they ship it upside down? Check out this power cord. It's like obscenely long. It looks like it's 30 feet. Hey, I actually like what they've done here though. It looks like some old, I mean, that's heavy duty foam right there. Not a bad job of packing it. Oh, I see some paper down in there. I think I'm going to roll it over and slide it out. So they use some pretty good pieces of foam that are a little bit soft and forgiving, especially these pieces. Those pieces taped to the back or looked to be old pieces of furniture, padding or something very forgiving and that probably helped. Well, CRT is out. Let's take a closer look at things in the tube. Looks solid. It's not been broken. Neither has the bezel. Thank goodness. That's usually the things that break. Our power button seems to be okay. And all these other buttons and knobs feel good. And the model, the model that we have today is a 1351Q, folks. And this particular one is from 1994. It does RGB. And it also does component. So it's pretty good and composite, of course, in this video. The only real problem is the nitwit who packed this darn thing, the CRT, you know, they covered it in this tape and just look at all the goo that's left under that tape. So I'm going to be cleaning this tape glue off this CRT for hours, thanks to, you know, that stupid packing technique. Of course, thankfully it did survive. But again, good grief, folks. I mean, look at that crap. Just cheap ass tape. We're going to start by power testing the CRT. I've got power fed into the back. And there's that extremely long power cable. It wasn't quite 30 feet. It was actually 10 full feet, though, and that's pretty darn long for a standard power cable. That's a nice little bonus. Then I've got S video fed in here through some Insurrection Industry S video cables. And that goes over to my lovely Super Famicom that I will be using to test that video signal. So let's see what happens. Oh, goodness. Let's see what happens when we power this thing on. All right, I hear the degausser. I hear the degausser. I hear the tube energized. I see the green LED. I see no sink. I see no sink. All right, let's see if we can get that video signal in here. I fed in the video signal and hit line C and look what pops up. A beautiful image. Let's see what happens. I mean, it's not it's not calibrated, but it doesn't look that bad. Definitely will need a restoration package done to it. Let's see what little Super Metroid looks like on there. Oh, yeah, this is great. There we have it. It's absolutely working. Look at that, folks. Perfect. How about that? Let's move it out of a reflective view so much. See if the volume will work any. Looks pretty good, like I said. Yeah. Well, you know, you can't throw the baby out with the bathwater. I mean, I'm very disappointed with all this glue that's going to take me an hour or two to clean off on the outside, but everything else on it is in perfect shape, looks like. And I got that really cool 10-foot cable to go with it. All right, I've been working on my CRT over there. After I got done servicing everything, 43 capacitors came out of this one. And I wanted to show you some things over here on the monitor itself. First off, this neck board has been completely rebuilt as far as like capacitors and then the other really important step to do is to go in here and reflow solder all over this board so that you get a nice, you have a nice solder integrity, especially after something this old, like 30 years, it needs fresh solder on this high heat area of the neck board. The main board was also serviced. It's been cleaned and then it has had a cap kit installed there that was 24 capacitors, mostly in this zone where all the high heat area is, as well as the deflection, like all these caps down here are new that you see over in there. And then all this area, these have not been changed. These are all in pretty good shape, low heat area, and still have plenty of life left on them. The other board that always has to be serviced with this set is this power supply. It also had a cap kit consisting of nearly every cap in here besides this massive custom crazy filter capacitor right here that has been QC'd and it's fine. Every other part was checked out too, but I also had to go in here and reflow the solder back here on this board entirely because, again, it's high heat. There's a lot of transformers, a lot of vibration goes on, so that is an important step. Now, one thing I have to point out here is this crazy G board. I've seen this a couple of times. If we zoom in here, I don't know if you can see it clearly on your screen, but over here right under where it says the G Sony board, right in the middle, we have a C660 listed on the board. It actually has a resistor installed in there and right next to that is a resistor spot with a capacitor installed in it. This is normally a 100 volt, one microfarad capacitor and this is an error on the printing of this board by Sony. So you're actually going to need to keep this with the way it was originally built. You need to check your build if you're looking at a G board here and you're going to replace this capacitor because you don't want to accidentally remove this resistor and install a capacitor for C660. When it's printed wrong on this board, you actually have to install it here and that's the way it's installed originally from the factory. So I just want to make sure everybody knows that because I'd hate to see somebody blow up a CRT just going in and removing components and then recapping without checking things on the actual board. I just spent two hours and probably $10 worth of chemicals to clean the majority of that tape glue just off this back shell. Remember how it was just on everything and this brings me to my point again with eBay sellers and packers and them just being mostly morons. Who the hell wraps an item that you buy completely up and packing tape the way they did with this one. That kind of thing is just not acceptable right? I mean if I bought a painting or what if I bought like something like a comic book and some moron slapped tape all over it and then said hey you know didn't you want it that way? It wasn't the way it was pictured. It was covered in mess um so like yeah eBay sellers you know that's the problem there's no consistency between any of you and so that's it you're getting you're getting a bit of a rant in the middle of this video but thankfully yeah I cleaned it all up sorry for making you listen to that but eBay sellers do better. Don't cover a freaking item and tape. If you need an idea here's an idea and go buy some stupid saran wrap wrap the thing in plastic wrap then tape that then I could just rip all that off and I'd be super happy. All right sorry about those rants and things folks I actually have the Sony 1351Q here it's hooked up ready to go super cleaned up especially after the way you saw it last uh everything's good on it tested working full restoration completed on it and it's got some Arizona going and then actually right next to it I have another 1350 but this is the 54Q and again the only difference between the two of these is the tube inside of them at least that's what I can find so far if you look in the service manuals the only real difference I could see in there was this tube so this one has a 600 line STM PEC tube in it and so you can research information on that one and then this one has the P22 phosphor tube so it's again a 450 TV line tube there and it's hooked up on this loop for a reason I'm going to switch over now to the 240p test suite and show you a very cool feature you can do with that test suite and this monitor all right I'm going to do this with both the monitors since it's hooked up like this now I have composite video run into these and I'm going to go in here and we're going to set up the chroma see where it says chroma set up we're going to do that on both of these monitors and thankfully the 240p test suite especially the one for the PC engine it is accurate enough for the chroma set up to be done on these CRTs to do this we're going to pull up the SM PTE color bars and we'll have it on 100% that's fine and we need to go in and press menu chroma set up hit enter on there hit auto adjust we have the bar signal we have to have all our knobs down here in the middle position so let's make sure that we've got set everything well it's just basically the chroma and phase need to be sent to the middle position okay and then all we need to do is hit enter to start and what this does is this is making progress on here let's see it should be it's adjusting that chroma level so the color will adjust a little bit and then it's completed so now it has done that auto chroma color balancing right there and that's all you need to do leave it on the on setting on the chroma set up and that's it i'm sitting here studying my guide on this monitor here's the flow chart where you press menu goes to chroma set up and it's just an auto adjust for your screen it says number seven so let's go over here number seven says auto adjust screen select the color bars full s c s m p t e i a and press enter to start auto adjusting the chroma setup it's ntsc signal only uh you can turn this on in the menu too it's the ntsc 358 trap filter so if you have a lot of color noise you can select this and see if it affects it it's only going to be ntsc 358 signals so it's going to be unlikely that you'll know if you have the 358 signal or something else so it might not affect your signal if it's not 358 the other thing that is interesting is check out the component and ntsc setup levels on your monitor there's an ntsc level which is 7.5 and then there's a japan a japanese level which is zero and i'll show you the difference in there what it looks like and the same thing goes with component oh this is a little bit different where beta 7.5 beta zero and n and 10 are selectable and the one that's normally selected here is beta 7.5 that's why it's over here this is your normal settings uh in the menu let's look closely at three things on here the component level menu the ntsc setup level menu and then right under that the acc menu and we're going to do so on this 1351 q now to get into this all we have to do is press the menu button this is not in the sub menu it is just in the main menu and we go beyond to the user config and we hit enter and now we're going to look at the next page which is all the way at the bottom hit enter again and this is where you can select these different features on this monitor this is the ntsc setup level so right now it's set to 7.5 which is standard for america if i change it you will notice a big color boost or brightness boost and that is the normal set for the japanese standard at least according to what is programmed on this crt so if you notice that these colors aren't quite to your normal perception you may need to check your ntsc setup and see if this impacts your viewing again if you're in north america most of the time this is going to be set to 7.5 as that is set for that american ntsc setup so those two things are right in here and then right under that we have acc and if we hit acc this is an this is an automatic color control circuit that we can turn on and off it says set it for off for fine adjustment and it's normally set to on so when you get your pvm it should normally be set to on if we turn it off you will notice the color dims down some you see that again if you need finer adjustments you want to try to make it look better you can manually go in and turn off this color control and try to adjust the set either using the knobs down here or other presets in this menu so those are just three things out of the many different things you have in this menu and features that you have with this crt we also have color temperatures which are again different color temperatures this has a range between 5000 and 10 000 k for color temperatures so you can actually go in here and change between these two that are preset in the crt and it is basically giving you a different color palette palette or temperature and then you can go in user set one that's uh you know if you want to customize one in the sub menu and then you can adjust colors right there for that user preset right in here all right so that wanted to be in a lot of information here today on the 1351q and even a little bit extra on the 1354q and i want you to know that this is a really great bargain or starter pvm if you're looking to try to save some money and not go all the way deep in to the crt game and spend thousands on a multi-format crt this is an analog resolution only but it is a great again starting set that you can find for reasonably priced amounts on ebay again these sell pretty normally between three to five hundred dollars and that's shipped and then you can sometimes find it a little bit cheaper than that like i did now of course this is all condition dependent i have the ability to come in here and service these and if you were to buy one of these you may need to get your service and if you do need something like that i offer those type of services through patreon so please feel free to check out the link in the description of this video and you can find help to get a restoration on your crt and make sure it lasts a very long time like the ones you saw in today's video and you can do that again by checking out patreon and the link below and get in line for some servicing to your crt but personally i really love both these crt's i have a hard time telling the difference between the 450 tv line look of the 51 q versus the 600 tv line look of the high resolution crt and the 1354 q so it's hard to say there's a really big difference in the two of them i think if all things were considered equal i'd probably choose the 54 q personally and i have a good history with that crt that was in fact my personal very first pvm ever was a 54 q now it was the 19 inch but it was the first one i ever had and it really got me started into pvms and crt's that are higher end i really love the machine so i think it's a great one to start out your crt journey with or it could be the one that just takes you on and is the perfect kind of gaming crt that you just have for performance reasons and you don't have to worry about getting a better one this one is just good enough to meet nearly all your needs as a crt and pvm enthusiast all right guys thanks again for watching today and if you like the video please do me a favor and drop a like below and i'll see you next time with some more retro content