 Hey guys Matt Beck free salon education comm and I'm here with another step on your 14 steps to cutting hair better This is step 10 and what we're going to focus on is are you graduating and are you layering? And that's really a very very important part of becoming a better hair cutter because of the fact that if you don't understand Where you're holding the hair and what it's doing with the weight distribution within it Then your haircuts aren't going to turn out the way that you want So let's look at the head shape first because the head shape plays the biggest role in understanding whether we're graduating hair or layering it So if we comb the hair down here We can see that the head kind of at the occipital bone curves down and when the head curves down That just means that the angles change as I'm cutting it. So let's look at I comb it down Maybe I'm holding this out and what I was taught in beauty school is that this is a 45 degree angle And a lot of you would agree and a lot of classes that I teach you would say that this is a 45 degree angle And what happens when when you think that this is a 45 degree angle? You're actually layering it because the head shape curves in so as it curves in this is coming out 90 degrees Now as we work our way up the head 90 degrees changes as the head curves So I think the biggest misconception with cutting hair is that We're going to keep the same angle as we cut it. So let's say we got this at our our 90 degrees here and we're just going to follow that line straight up and cut that 45 degree angle Well, the 45 degree angle is changing because now we're at 90 degrees here And we're running parallel at that point with that line. So that's going to be the heaviest it could possibly be It's at zero degrees basically So Let's look at it this way now. I comb the hair down We work our way out You could see that kind of angle that I've cut in Then we have this disconnect on top which we're going to cut in a later video But as I work my way up the head this Right here would I think we could all agree that this is a layer but Once I dropped just a slight bit I dropped that much now i'm graduating So if i'm holding the hair all the way down here, this is coming off the head at zero degrees So it's just too much weight. So, you know, this is something I talk about quite a bit But there's nothing more important than understanding what the head shape is doing while you're holding the hair And how you're over directing the hair And where you're pulling the hair out too to determine how the weight's going to look within the haircut Most of the time we're cutting hair and then fixing it dry and we shouldn't be fixing it dry We should be having fun with it when it's dry and creating different techniques. So Just look at it this way make sure that as you pull the hair out at that 90 degree angle You understand that the head shape is changing So change your angle as you work up the head when you're cutting a graduated bob or anything like that Then if you're working layering remember that this here cutting into this is not layering The only part that it's almost layering is this little tiny bit of it And then the rest of this is all graduated and heavy So we're going to have that stacked layer on the top So it's just heavy and lifeless and it doesn't work for your guests So just make sure you understand it. I know I'm going on and on but it's really important to understand that this step Is getting to the point where it's the most important step Just understand the head shape really think about where you're pulling the hair and why you're pulling it there And you're going to cut hair better. So hope you enjoyed this step. We'll see you on the next one Uh, check us out three slot education.com and follow us on youtube Right here subscribe and uh, we'll see you next time. Thanks