 Hey, what's up folks? Welcome back to another 3D Hangouts. My name is Noel Ruiz. I'm a designer here at Adafruit. Joining me every week is one with Pedro. Hello. Good morning. I'm Pedro. I have creative tech here at Adafruit, and every week we're here to share 3D-printed projects featuring electronics from Adafruit. That's right. This is the show where we combine 3D printing and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects. Hello, everybody. Welcome to the show. This is episode 405 entitled Master Sword, Lightsabers, and Flexi Dinosaur. It is Wednesday, July 19th, 2023, and we're hanging out. If anyone would like to shout out questions, banter. We got the Discord Adafruit server. We want to welcome everybody live watching. We are streaming on all the four networks, so we can bring in comments and questions. But we like the Discord, so check it out. Pedro, what's the link to the Discord? Link to the Discord is on discord.gg slash Adafruit. Come on and join everybody. Chatting it up in there. We've got a whole bunch of different channels, so if you need some help with your 3D printing, your Circle Python code, Arduino is even in here. Come on and check it out. Yeah. We're also hanging out in the YouTube chats on Facebook, Periscope, Twitch, and I think there we are, LinkedIn. Yeah, five networks. If you want to save 10% off your order, coupon code for today is Lightsword. Yeah, this will work on everything except gift certificates. I think that's all it doesn't work on. Yeah, we don't do the software anymore. Yeah, it was the time when we sold software. How about that? All right, let's kick it off with the housekeeping stuff. We'll get through it. We've got an update to the freebies. Adafruit.com slash free for all the details. But the gist is for orders that are $99 or more, you're going to get a half size from a proto. That's still in effect. If your order is $149 or more, you'll get the KB2040 plus the promo proto. And if your order is $299 or more, you'll get the three items. Circuit Playground Express, the KB2040, and the half size from a proto. Yeah, and some updates, I guess, to our shipping. We have turned off UPS for the time being. So your only options right now are FedEx or USPS. So just like as a programming note, if you're putting in your orders, FedEx is the only choice right now. I think that's it for the... Yeah, originally we're scared of some pending orders that we have. Hopefully they switch it over. Yeah, we're all for the strike and everything, but we got to make sure that we're ahead before the strike happens. So that's why we have switched exclusively to FedEx right now. Later tonight, we'll have PT talk about more about it, but yeah. More little bit of the insight on what's going on. Hopefully everything turns out good. Workers get more money and better conditions. I did not know there was no ACs in there on the trucks. Yeah, yeah, it's really hot. All right, well, let's welcome everybody to the show. We have Rosin, Jim Hendrickson, DeWester, all the things Andy Calaway and Yanni School hanging out in the Discord. Welcome everybody. Thanks for tuning in. We are mainly going to chat about prototyping projects today. We have a ton of projects in the work that are all using the PropMaker Feather RP2040. So this is in stock right now. We have a good batch of them. Thank you for everybody purchasing theirs on the first run. It seems to have gone well. We're still in the same revision. And we are working hard on really revising all of our legacy popular prop projects. So Pedro's been working on one and I myself am working on one, both iconic props, a lightsaber and a master sword. Yeah, he should have the master sword ready. Here's the master sword. There it is. So seating and all the components on the inside, of course, with the new board. And a lot of the things that we want to fix too, when we did a bunch of these projects, how many years ago? Five years ago now? I think the fusion had just came out. So we're still learning the ropes on that. And figuring out all the modular component mounts, for that wasn't a thing, especially with the master sword. This is just glued together. Hot to glued. So it's easy to fall apart. So I'm going in and updating the model for that, adding all of the little mounts for all the components. So like the speaker, you can easily take that out and they screw in. So if a tab or something breaks, like it has before with I believe the, what was that other Zelda prop? The standoffs or they would keep breaking off. So I know now combined standoffs with the outer walls. So there's no way that those little cylinders can just pop off. The entire wall would have to get ripped off. And then of course the updated circuitry. So a lot of the suppliers that we get a lot of these components from, they've changed at least four times. I want to count with something like the 2200 milliamp hour cylindrical battery. Like this has been swapped out about three times. So updating the tolerance for tolerances for that, they did get a little bit wider. So I had to compensate for all that, make sure everything fits. And then like you were saying, the top maker. So a little bit different way to mount this. We have to have like these little pins in the mounts. And then of course you want to make this modular. So none of those break off in the main model. And then there goes 20 hours of printing because of a tiny little piece of plastic broke off. So that's a lot of the updates, the components we're doing. And then for the lightsaber, you've been doing some updates to the model as well. Yeah, a completely new Hilt design. When we did the first prop maker lightsaber, it was a very intense build. You needed two boards. You needed an M4 feather, and then the prop maker feather wing. I've learned a lot about the construction, making it simplified. No need for an external USB breakout. We now have USB-C on all the boards. Yeah, it's just making the construction a lot easier. So I have the over here, and we have kind of the same sort of pommel that can screw off, much like our other props. I have the feather inside the Hilt that has like a little slide out bit that has a separate mount. And then we have a built-in slide switch right underneath. Still working on the code. This is going to be a collab project with Liz. But right now we have the same blade from the last lightsaber build. We're using the RGB LED button that will match with the color of the blade. We'll have some new features where you hold the button down, and it'll change the color of the blade, and it'll cycle through. A low is still worth redoing the entire thing, having... Because that's, I think, one of the number one things. We want a different color based on whatever they feel like that day. Right. So the speaker is built into the bottom here. It's like underneath the feather. And then that's pretty much it. You got the RGB button to turn off and on the blade. Right now the code just completely shuts off the power pin. But we're going to update the code. So it runs with the RP2040. The Hilt design has pretty much a three-piece design. No more dual extrusion. These grips are just printed. Extra parts that are super glued over the little crevices there. The emitter screws off. And instead of the blade like press fitting into the emitter, it press fits into a little tube holder. And that tube holder gets tightened down when you screw this in. So it'll be a lot less strain on the wiring. So a lot simpler construction. Yeah, we are using these blades from an online shop that kind of makes these resin caps. And then they fill it with this nice diffuse material. And they're polycarbonate blades. So they're super strong and very thick so they won't break. So they're bad already. So that's what we're working on. Code is going to be written. And then we'll start doing the law and guide and documenting it. Lamar had the idea of sending off the STLs to JLCPCB to try out their resin 3D printing. So we're going to have these printed in resin. I'm actually going to get the parts tomorrow because they ship in like six days. So that's kind of cool. So we'll see how this turns out in this black resin. But yeah, that's kind of the update. A lot easier to build with an all-in-one board. And we're excited to remake all the iconic props with the new all-in-one dev board. Hey, as we're sifting through some of the old Fusion files, we noticed that there were some things that needed to be updated, some links that were broken on things like the Master Sword or that were never updated again because we were sort of learning Fusion and everything. So I did the Master Sword in Maya. So a lot of that stuff can transferred over, making sure the faces are all correct. And yeah, it's a lot of the work that's been going on right now. Just updating all that, getting all the code into the Python and just printing, making sure that these come out flawless. So then one of the things that I'm excited for for the lightsaber is actually having an on and off button, right? Because I remember before we had to unplug the JST to turn it on and off, right? Yep, it has been abstract. Yeah, so there's a lot of things I've learned from making the darksaber has a good construction. You can turn it off and on easily. So and then- While being able to charge it. Yeah, the time baton as well is a good upgrade to this sort of style of prop. So I'm taking all the lessons that I've learned from those props and applying it to this. Lightsaber. So that's good. This is a great comment on YouTube from Tyler, interested in doing an over the top stainless steel lightsaber build for me and my son. Have you guys thought of a clever quick disconnect for the blade element? Yeah, so a lot of the blades from like ultra sabers, like the online folks that make custom lightsabers, they have this kind of pogo pin sort of style. Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. For us, we're just using the JST for the old one. For the new one, it's just a terminal block where you can just unscrew. Right. So it is easier in that sense. So it's kind of disconnect friendly. We also have these magnetic connectors that might be interesting to do in a future build. Something like, is this a three pin? Yeah, something like this might be interesting to do. Yeah. But I'm kind of leveraging the screw block terminal and the existing LED blade that we have already. But if you wanted to try these out, maybe this could be something that could be a red light. It looks like the polarity of the magnets only go one way. So that's kind of new. So that might be an interesting way to do it. I like that example with the red board. The Permaproto. Permaproto, yeah. I like that example there. Because that's a really, really good way how you can connect it to something else. Yeah. Why are you putting it on that? Yeah, so that could be a clever way to do it. You'll just need to figure out how to mount this. Doesn't look like there's mounting holes on it. Those little tabs right there, there's looks like you can clamp onto them right there. Right, maybe press-fitted somehow. That would like clamp something together with the screws. Yeah, and then the ultra sabers, they have their own kind of method of quick connecting the blades. Whoa, so Yanni posted a link here for titanium printing from PCBway. So that might be a good way to test that out. Yeah, get some titanium parts. Yeah, PCBway and JLCPCB, they both offer CNC as well, so you could have the CNC milled. So that's kind of cool. Yeah, that's a cool switch method from, I forget which Star Wars movie this is, but it's the one with Rey. So it's either Rise or Rise Skywalker. Not a new hope. Not a new hope. What was it? Last Jedi, Rise of the Return? No, dang it. We're terrible. No, we swear we're Star Wars fans. Yeah, I can't remember the one, the JJ Abrams one. comments. Last Jedi. The last Jedi? No, is it the last one? A new new hope. Wow. Anyhow, PropMaker's are in stock, so you want to start gathering those up. Yes, Force Awakens. The Force Awakens. Thank you so much. You saved my butt there. Yeah, I completely forgot about it. Let's probably watch it get inspired. All right, where is the, I had a link to the PropMaker. Oh, I just posted one as well. So they are in stock, go ahead and pick some up. I restocked all of mine, since there is a bunch of props we have to redo. I needed to have a bunch on hand so that I wouldn't run out of them. So, yeah, I guess we can look at some CAD stuff. Yeah, right after that I'll and start talking about the massive sword and stuff too. Okay, so we'll take a look here at the Fusion 360 model. Let me just do my entire screen. We'll go into tunnel view for a little bit so that you can see all the floaty windows. So the hill design in Fusion 360. We have 3D models of all the electronics. So here are the electronics. We have a nice model of the feather, our P2040 PropMaker with all the onboard components. You get your screw block terminal, your header pins for the servo, the JSD connector for the battery, USB and boot buttons, and then the USB port. So let's see if I can show you folks the PCB holder, because that's a fun bit here. Slides in and out. Yeah, let me see. There we go. We got a better look here. So I came up with this little design. It's very simple. There's no screws. It does have these little clips that hold the PCB in. And because it's a fairly thin print, we can slightly flex it so that those clamps hold the PCB in place. So here's what that set up looks like. Thankfully, the mini oval speaker has these adhesives on it already. So you just peel it and stick it on the bottom. I didn't want to make a separate thing for it, because I figured, you know what? It's just a flat surface. It should adhere to it fairly well. And I even have a mounting slot in there. I didn't end up using it because there's enough clearance in between these two surfaces for the various cables that come out here. Then I have a custom battery holder. For the 2200 mAh battery, that's what we like using, because it's cylindrical. It's tough. Like it's a lot stronger, more durable than the soft lipo batteries. So that's how that works. And then the RGB LED momentary button just kind of press fits into the hilt there like that. And then the extra bits are the pommel that screws on. It has holes here for the sound to pass through. And then over here, we're going to show the emitter part. The emitter, let's do a half view of it. Let me turn on the blade too. Where are you? The emitter, there it is. I wish there was a search in there. Yeah, that'd be nice. So I have this separate piece here. Although it wouldn't work. Say it's server not found. Yeah, because that's what's happening right now. So I have this blade holder that press fits into the tube of the blade, the polycarbonate tube. And then you can see here in this view how this gets screwed in here with these threads, the emitter bit. And then it just kind of holds it in place. So you don't have to like... Because on the other lightsaber, the emitter pressfitted... The tube pressfitted into the emitter and then you would have your cable get twisted up. This way the blade stays stationary. And the thing that's moving is the emitter and not the blade itself. So there's a little bit of clearance between the edge of the top edge of the emitter and the blade have some leeway there. You can see down here it's 0.6 millimeters of clearance. And then it has like this lip that just holds and press fits these two surfaces together. So it kind of gets sandwiched in place. And then there's like this hole at the bottom for the JST connector to pass through. Goes all the way down into a matching JST connector that gets screwed into the screw block terminals. So that's a good kind of look at it. Plenty of room here for those cables to pass through. So that's kind of how that's working. And yeah, a lot simpler. So if you want to recharge it, you can just unscrew the pommel, plug in to the USB. And if you want to turn it off completely, the slide switch is fitted right underneath that USB connector. Yeah, and that's really it. I'm glad that something is a lot easier. We'll have a four pin JST connector because there's RGB LED. So you really need four connections for the LED and then two other ones for the switch. The momentary switch will turn on and off the effect like the lightsaber effect needs to kind of do that color wipe effect. Mm-hmm. So that's our reason momentary button. And there's like a dedicated button terminal. That's like a switch terminal. So that's a look at the internal line. And how everything is mounted. Yeah. With on the discord is saying that, yep, he's found the adhesives on speakers are really good. They're so good. I ripped the speaker in half. You know, like it got. Oh, wow. Wow. And the adhesive stayed on. But the other half of the speaker came off. Wow. Because of the way it got tugged. But the adhesion part stayed on. Another thing I want to mention is that I really like the PCB holder. And I think I might try this out. I might, I might look into actually purchasing like a CNC milled lightsaber and then like designing the holder bit to fit into that. So like the, where was these? I think I closed it. But the online folks that sell custom lightsabers, they do sell like blank hilts with no electronics in it. And I'm thinking might be kind of fun to make a special holder just for those. Yeah. Yeah. Because yeah, like how Tyler, he wants to get his stainless steel lightsaber built. Like you can just get the hill and they're not expensive. They're like 50 bucks, which I guess it could be expensive. But instead of buying a CNC and doing it yourself, you're saving probably more money like just getting the hill part and then building the rest of it. So that's sort of what I got working on. Yep. All of the 3D models of the components are on our Github. So you can download those if you want to use that in your design. Awesome. And yeah, Michael. Yeah. So for my part, the updates on the master sword is what some of the old components look like in the old one showing you this broken one because it was just hot together. So it was super easy for the kids to just break this into pieces. And you can kind of see there the way that it was built was like for small printers. So I'm going to leave that behind and let you guys slice that up. I left sketches inside of the file so you could resize that to your printer. But I just have it at 300 by 300. So I don't have to glue as many pieces together. But the thing that I added though, instead of gluing the pieces, they all are going to have the little tabs on there so you can use M2.5 screws and a nut to hold that together. So that should hold it a lot more better. And there's going to be screws on the inside. So the halves will be screwed together as well. Like I was saying before, the standoffs, they're no longer going to be little orphaned standoffs all hanging out over here by themselves. All of the designs or all the standoffs are all sort of combined. Oh my God, my white balance is going crazy. Yeah, he's changing. So all of them are going to be combined with the wall. So there's no chance of those just flopping off. Yeah, those are very merged into the rest of this part of it. Yeah. So what that allows me to do is I don't have to add like fillets on the bottom here. That's usually what you do to strengthen them up. And that takes up geometry and room for some of the components on the inside. And then for the components, I don't have to just hot glue them in there. They all have their own little mounts. So like the speaker and then the holes, it'll just go right on there. Screw in so you can pull those off. Same thing with the feather. It'll fit a lot more better down in here. A lot more better for the access to charging it. So you still have the hole to insert your USB to charge that guy up. And then what was the other thing? I think we were talking about updating the tolerances for the lipo, the cylindrical battery that's been updated. And there's a little screw holes here. So that'll screw into that bottom there. And then all the components will be nicely secured so the kids can swing this around and break it another way. I'm sure they'll figure it out. And then the slide switch. Just goes right in there. A lot more better than just having it glued on. Yeah, that's pretty much what a lot of this stuff has been. Cleaning up a lot of the model too. There's like some geometry that isn't like valid. Like there's a bunch of holes still on this part here. You go in there and delete those. And yeah, it's pretty much optimizing this to be more modern for all the modular components. So you can swap these in and out. So the technique is to print in all the pieces in this nice diffusable white material. And then you're going to paint the blue areas and the gold areas. Yeah, the paint's pretty simple. It's just the gold and then this navy blue. And then for added detail, you can add these. I forget the name of the string. Pericord. Yeah, that's actually helping to tighten it together as well. Cool. Since I can't really add screws here, since the components are, the screws are going to be up in here. So this definitely helps add. And when you're holding it to clamp down on it. So yeah, that's pretty much it. And the code is already written in CircuitPython. So that is good. All of the stuff will remain with all the waves and everything. All the hits. Yeah. So the code on all these projects just get updated slightly. The pins need to get updated. So just like the setup for the accelerometer, the setup for the amplifier, because it's I2S AMP now. This just need a little bit of extra lines of code. So if you have yourself a custom prop that is kind of the legacy CircuitPython, you'll just have to add a couple of updates to the setup code. But we have an example code in the Learn Guide for the PropMaker RP2040 Feather. I'll show you exactly how to initialize the servo. If you have one, the accelerometer, the I2S AMP, the NeoPixel. And then there's like a special power pin that powers all the external pins. And that's there so that you can do low power, low sleep, a deep sleep kind of mode. So your proud can be left turned on. Yeah. And then you can just turn off the external power. So that'll help you with conserving the battery when your thing is sleeping. So yeah, all good updates. That's where we're at with it. I think next week I'll have the lightsaber ready, I think. We'll see. Should be good to go by next week. Yours too. All right. We'll alternate. We don't want to release both of them at the same time. But it's summertime. Everybody's kind of off anyway. Maybe no. I don't know. The lightsaber could either come next week or the week after. The Soka is until when. I don't even know when that. Oh yeah. You don't want to release it with some sort of Star Wars content, I guess. There's always content. Cool. Don't forget, if you want to pick up your PropMaker Neopixologies buttons, switches, servos, all that sort of stuff. Whatever's in stock, 10% off with the lightsword. All right. Awesome. All right. Let's go ahead and jump into this week's community makes. All right. I have a tab. I have a tab. Here it is. So coming from this Allosaur. This week's community makes this super adorable, flexible Allosaurus. Has little flexible arms and it has this little hinge thing that opens its mouth from its neck. Oh wow. That's so freaking cool. I love when artists add these little simple things like this. You can kind of see the way that it pushes on the mouth part here on the bottom. It all prints in one piece. It's like a lover. Very clever. Yeah, it's like a little lover. It's all print in place. I'm using this super cool rainbow glitter film. It's kind of hard to see. Yeah, it's pretty. It's a camera. But like in the sunlight and like here in the room, there's like all these super cool like glitter sheen effects. You can't see it. It looks so freaking cool. Yeah, it looks great in the video. You can see that. And the spool. I'll have to post the link. It's one of those no name brands, but it's super strong. You can see in the time lapse video that there wasn't any oozing, which is usually the case with like the weaker material when the print head parks to move out of the way. So the picture can be taken. This is usually like little stringy bits that are left behind. I know that with this one. So it handles retraction incredibly well. Sorry, I wanted to play the video. Yeah. Oh, you can kind of see it there. The glitter that happens. So that was the blue portion of the rainbow filament there. And it goes, you can kind of see the rest of it here and going from blue to the green. This is very impressive quality from a rainbow filament because it is always so with glitter, too. Hard to print that stuff. Yeah. The silky stuff, especially is like... This isn't silky. Right. Not silky. Yeah. I find the glitter stuff tends to print better. More rigid, more durable. Yeah, but this is... Of course the kids... So that's zero cleanup, really? Yeah, no cleanup on it. That's wild. Yeah, this is really good. There's like a little here you can't even see, but apart from that, the filament is what we're highlighting here, it seems, at the model. Right. I think it's a pay-for model. So definitely not free, but definitely worth it. So it's for this little lever part. So cool. So this is... Not the $1.20. Yeah. Definitely worth $1.20. Yeah. So it's designed by Angel Jacob Fergarillo and it's on Colts 3D for, like you said, a $1.20. Here's a little gif of it. It stands upright. That's how it prints. So it's got a nice flat belly. And then that lever. Poor lever. Tomato-tomato. This is some sort of shiny filament. It looks like a silk, yeah. Yeah, it's so printed in place. No supports. Simple mechanism. Very cool. Favorite of the kids. Yeah, the kids love it. And excellent modeling skills on that with the scales and all that. Man, this filament's great. But it looks... Give us a link to the filament. Can you give us a link to that filament? Oh yeah, yeah, let me grab that. Let's get another spool of that. Yeah, I want to get some. I don't like using rainbow filament just for that reason that they're always so brittle and... Yeah, it was the bad of getting everything in silk, I think. It's from Strong Hero 3D. Okay. And they call it... It's a new brand. Here it is. Is it like an Amazon find? Yep, Amazon. Interesting. Ooh, pineapples. Yeah, Strong Hero 3D. Well, a strong filament. Good name. So it's your PLA with the additives. The glittery stuff. It is shiny, too, right? So it's like glittery and shiny. Yeah, yeah, yeah. But not like... It's more of a metallic. Yeah, this probably gets deeper color. Yeah, metallic. Okay. Yeah, I would pick some of that stuff up. Or Enter3CR10. You know it's good. Yeah, like in the sunlight you can just see how the glitter on there. And it doesn't clog. It looks like the flakes on this is... The way they grounded it up or something is really good. It's not like chunky. It's not like... You know how usually... Sometimes you can feel the grain from the glitter. Yeah. The element of that on there. Cool. Excellent rainbow metallic. Yeah, the color is a little bit more deeper tones than some of the lighter... Yeah, if you want that one, the one that we usually use, it's the same brand as well, but they have more of a brighter tone of colors and it doesn't have the glitter that one that we use. And that one is... The reason I used it or grabbed this one at being the same brand is because it was just as strong. Not... It didn't do any of the stringiness either. Yeah. I see it. They have a whole plethora of rainbow... Did you see my screen? Yes, I think that might be the same. Just the black, blue, and a purple and this glitter silk gold. So these are really nice... Yeah. Comb... Good color combos. Not just the whole seven colors of a rainbow. This bird looks really cool. Yeah, we're just focusing on the blue hue. Why? They have a glow in the dark. It's variable glow in the dark. Tones. I've had not the best experience with those because not all of the glow colors glow as bright. The one you rolled over, like a couple that you rolled over there, you could see that some are actually dimmer than the other one. The bottom is like dimmer. So it doesn't look good when you have them all combined together. Sure. Okay. Some of these are good color combos. Yeah. Like this kind of purple and red. That's a good color combo. Red and purple. Yeah, purple, red. And I think those are the... Where it has like a different sheen of the color. I forget the name of it. The chrome. Yeah, chromatic. Yeah. This would be nice for a lightsaber hilt. Yeah. You get this variance in color. The burnt titanium is what I used on this one. So it has like a purple, blue hue. Yeah, it does. Yeah, it looks fun. So it looks like it's close to that. What this is. This one's from FlashFord. It's called burnt titanium. Really? Yeah. It looks really good. The threads are all nice. Oh, yeah. It's excellent. Yeah, I got like three spools of this. It's great. Yeah, it's super good. Yeah. Only one little mess up here for the end. Oh, right. That's the first layer. Yeah. No, it should be fine with the blade. Because it doesn't actually pass through there. Not on the thread, yeah. Yeah. That looks fantastic. Man, that overhanging on that button hole is really good. Sweet. I don't know how much better those resin prints are going to turn out, because that looks pretty damn good. Over the webcam. I mean, it's perfect for people who, you know, don't have a printer. They just want to assemble it. That's what the whole reason that I wanted the resin prints. Right. In the triax, we've already tested resin prints from PCB way. They're good. They didn't require any design updates for the snap fit cases and parts that we had printed. I also did some print in place parts with those. It turned out good. So we'll see how JLCPCB does. I think it'll probably be about the same. Like they're just good. They should be okay. Cool. Yeah, he's it. This will be like Jedi survivor, more light, saber color options. I think for the hero shots, it should be the orange color that'll be in the Soka, for the blade. Yeah, sure. The whole point is that we have built-in color changing now. That's the future. So that'll be like whatever color you want. So that'll be nice. All right. Moving on with community mages. Let's jump to the mages that were sent to us, starting off with the make of the heat press insert rig for doing heat inserts. Aviana posted up that they are printing, they printed it in PETG. So they got their parts printed and they're waiting on some hardware. Let me see if this loads. There we go. Oh, yeah, that's good. And the next one after that is a unicorn horn posted up by Sam Bart. They put it on. They're adorning their helmet. Looks like they had added some ears as well to go with the unicorn vibe. That's very cool. After that, we have our first make of the Trondisk. Oh, nice. Yeah, this was before the prop maker RP2040, but even still, this has Bluetooth connectivity, so you kind of would have to do it this way even today. Oh, yeah. That one's the NRF. Yeah, it's the NRF Bluetooth. So you can change it with your app. So this is posted up by Patrick Bloom. It says it kind of tricky, but definitely a fun project to build as most props are printed in PETG. So that's more flexible. We definitely go with a 0.2 or lower layer height. Printed his in 0.3, which makes the overhang a little rough. Yeah. Further check for the color change. Oh, yeah. Yep. Ah, yeah, yeah, yeah. The color change, yeah. What could be an improvement in the models away from the parts are connected in the video? They use some sort of pins. I think there were screws. Don't know. So I went with small screws. That's what we used. This works kind of like a snap fitter bonnet that make it even more secure. All in all, nice model and fun project to build. Thanks for sharing. Oh, the screws, the nylon screws, I guess look like pins. Yeah. Oh, these are metal ones, I guess. Yeah, yeah, yeah, I did not use metal ones. Yeah. Yeah, nylon M2s. Right. You can get white nylon ones too that would diffuse probably better. Oh, no. The black would match. Oh, no, you're right. Yeah, yeah. It's on the white part. So I guess that's cool. Yeah, cool. So we got a first make. That's great. And then it has the magnets. You can see them back there. Ah, yeah, yeah. Was this part supposed to be clear? I don't believe so. That's probably what's going on there. Yeah. I remember it being black at the bottom. I'm only the top, so to speak. Wait, but hey, you can change all the way. Whatever you want. Yeah. Yeah. That's the actual model one from Disney. I think it is black on the bottom as well. Yeah. Okay. Again, you could do if you wanted to take it back. That's a good way to do it. Yeah. Yeah. It can be a tricky build with these embedded projects. Yeah. It was a lot of fun though to make. Yeah. The kids still love it. They keep playing. Oh, yeah. Use it all the time. All right. And then after that, we have another build of the Epcot Spaceship Earth LED project. This was posted up by Thorben. So it's finally done. Got some issues with the hot glue in the inner side, but now it's working fine. Fantastic filament choice. I think just kind of dark gunmetal. It looks really nice. And yeah, the sides is a little bit difficult to get, but that's the hardest part. It's to mold that in there, but it looks pretty good here in this photo. Cool. Very cool. Yeah. Glad folks are still making it. And then the last one this week is posted up by ThighSpacePope. And they 3D printed the Snapchat case for the Feather RP2040 DVI. And they have a little time lapse here because the Bamboo Labs printer has a camera to do time lapses. So they just uploaded a gift for that. Very cool. Very shiny bed. I think it's glass. They use the Bamboo Labs X1 Carbon. And it says it prints it on a WAM Bam flexible build system for that mirror finish without needing a glue stick. Nice. Fantastic. And I keep seeing the time lapses of the full color Bamboo time lapses. Yeah, and I go bang it's so tempting. There's a heat sink on the Feather. How about that? Wow, I'm losing it. Oh. Yeah. I guess it gets hot. Dang. Huh. Crop is right. Like it might need a little vent on the top lid then too. Although it might. No. I mean it's in between where the cutouts are. Yeah. It has built-in vents and a new pixel hole. You can even go in there with like a needle like I did with this and do some holes. Yeah, just poke the hole in like that. Yeah. Because you weren't sure where the... I need to remember to do that. And you're on the model. Right. Yeah, so you're not having to do that again. Well, shout out for everybody for posting their stuff. We know it's summertime and therefore everybody's kind of off. You're in the States anyway in the atmosphere that we're in. Nope. Airbnb next door is all from the UK. Okay. That's good. It's like everybody's down here. Cool. All right. Well, we have like 50 minutes left, but we're kind of... That's it. Yeah. That was a show. Get back to... We can turn the stuff, adding some things into the models. Yeah. I'm trying to open up my Discord tab. No, I think we're all cut up. So everybody's just hanging out, launching this in the background. It's all good. That's what I do when I launch streams. So, yeah. Tonight we have a show and tell hosted by Liz. So if you want to come on, come by the Discord server. Add 720-ish. We'll drop in the link so folks can join. And then Ask an Engineer is shortly after that at 8 p.m. Eastern time. Don't forget if you want to pick up anything. Our 10% off coupon code is light sword, and that's going to be active for the next 24 hours. We have most things in stock. We're working on getting more things on stock. There's some new products that are out, like the S3 ESP32 S3 Matrix Portal. I'm looking forward to the My Little Hacker board. I want to make a 3D-printed music player using that board. What else is new coming out? Let me just go with new. I know. It's trying to log me in. I don't want to log in. I don't want to log in. I just want to see slash new. Oh. Now. Log in. Dang it. Now. Here's the login. I just wanted to look at new. Audi FBFF board is out. That was last week, I think. Yeah. All good stuff. So if you want any new stuff, you know where to go. Awesome. All right. That's going to do it for us. Hope to see you tonight on the show and tell. I'll just be watching as a viewer. And shout out to everybody who watched the show. That's all that said. We'll see you next week. Remember to make a great day. See you later tonight. Bye folks. Wait, where's my cover? Okay. Now. Bye folks. And then we do the cover.