 Hello everybody and welcome to another hobby cheating video and today it's time to get dirty down The strict technomancer that is Vinci V. Let us get to the technique and learn it Vinci V style Yes today, we're gonna be talking about dirty down weathering products specifically We're going to be looking at rust Vertigree and moss so these are the three original products that they launched with they do have some others now But these are the three that I know really well today We're gonna take you through how to use these products how to get the most out of them and most importantly some advanced techniques Where we combine them with some other traditional miniature paints and products to really achieve some awesome effects So let's head over to the desk. Let's get rusty All right, so we're gonna hit as I said three dirty down products rust vertigree and moss We're gonna do them in that order all three of these are really really fun products And I really like the way they integrate in first word of warning You have to shake the living bejeezees out of these before you start I use my mixer, but a really really good shake Second piece of advice is use like a dry well palette something like that and get it out to work on It'll just make your life a lot easier than trying to dip your brush in that bottle so Each of these actually works a little differently. Let's talk about rust first So with the rust so this is the brown rust. They also have a yellow rust which I haven't I haven't tested yet So I can't speak to that one, but with the brown rust You really want to get in there and get some pretty heavy applications as per always with these you want to focus your attention on the things where Where rust would naturally gather so here? I'm working around rivets and in places where like the lower sides of these circular things where water would naturally run to and then build up and oxidize the metal so recesses rivets All these kinds of places right Anywhere where their oxidation would naturally occur And you just kind of let it be you have to kind of glop it on there pretty heavy And then just kind of spread it around a little bit Now let's watch it dry. This is a pretty magical process Because as it dries over Let's say about two minutes. I think of time this actually represents Over this period as it dries it really does turn into this wonderfully natural looking rust But the thicker it is the more sort of it becomes the problem is that's not how rust works It isn't just like some You don't have like perfect steel on one side and then it immediately becomes full rust And I see people mess this up, but we don't have to this stuff is water-soluble It's not meant to be applied like that and then you stop so instead. I have a clean dry brush Just some water and then I'm sweeping it around working picking at the edges and By doing that. I kind of spread it off soften the edges. You kind of feather it out once it's dry And that's what's really awesome about this product It stays workable really for quite a long amount of time after you applied it And so you can remove it you can weaken it you can feather it and With the the brown rust that's a very powerful tool because it effectively is gonna tint the rest of the metal I can get it wet I can wipe with my finger if I want to clear something away good to go now vertigris Vertigris is a little bit different when you first put it on and when you see It here as I'm as I'm applying it you're probably like what in the heck is this that is not vertigris That looks like Christmas green color okay With the rust you want to go on pretty heavy With the vertigris it actually behooves you to kind of go on fairly light You can do a heavy application, but then it'll look a little older a little darker If you're looking for that sort of traditional light Vertigris color you actually want a relatively light application of the vertigris So you can see here again Let's let it dry over time and you can see how as it dries naturally over time What you end up getting is where it's quite thin You will get that very light blue green color Of the vertigris emerge quite naturally where it's quite thick and It'll be much much darker So my advice to you is think about the type of vertigris you're gonna have what additional steps you're going to utilize and so on Now you can also reapply it with light touches over top like if you just kind of dab around Afterward it will then lighten up and you'll get some lighter versions of the thing Unlike rust the vertigris won't as easily sort of spread out Is what I would say It will tend to be a little less. It's a little less reactive to this kind of feathering technique like you can do with the rust You can still lighten it up. You can still erase it. That all works. All right, lastly the moss I'm just gonna use his feet. I don't have a base here. Normally moss abuse and something like base But we'll assume he's just been walking through a jungle and his feet are all mossy You know, that's why not right the moss effect. I really love it's a very natural moss effect And and this one just really combines with a lot of other things for bases and stuff like that If you want to ever have sort of naturalistic vegetation in scale I actually think this is one of the best products around to create that on rocks and stone and basing and stuff like that But I just wanted to show you here what it looks like and then once again Let's just let it dry you can see it goes on this one goes on the tone is relatively correct in the green But as it dries it really lightens up Quite a bit And and becomes very very matte and it just really has this very natural mossy like appearance So there we go the moss all dry on the feet We've got some nice rusts spread out and feathered all over the rest of the leg And you can see now how the rest of the vertigris dried and we get that very natural nice effect there With all this set. I really do like how this looks. I think you're good at base All right, so now you can see that just with the product alone and then the reactivation and using regular water We can achieve some really cool things. However, we can do a lot more the simple fact is by combining this very powerful weathering product with other Traditional things we use for weathering. So this would be pigments or acrylic normal acrylic paints or even Contrast paints we can achieve some really cool effects So now we're going to look at how we can sort of mesh these two things together and how awesome we can make our minis look All right, now let's have some fun Let's get crazy. So here. I just have some dry pigment This is from Vallejo and I'm just smashing it all around into the cracks and into crannies and again places where rust would naturally gather and water would Deposit and oxidation would occur Rivets and recesses are always your guide I've talked before about how you can take pigment and then just swoosh it around with water But this time instead of using water, I just blew that's just blowing off the excess off camera We're going to use the dirty down and I'm going to lay it straight over there this is actually a fun way to add even more texture and Sort of additional mass to it. You can go heavier than I did you can mix the pigment directly into it As long as you don't if you put in too much, you'll stop the effect So you got to be really careful there, but you can sprinkle a little bit in and that's fine So if you actually want physical texture, this is a great way to add that and make the rust even heavier This leg we're going to do real rusty. So once again the same thing as you're swooping it around You will get into that pigment that's still hidden there and reactivate it and it'll get all mixed up and Tint all of the surface So if you're going for sort of a heavier rusted thing some, you know, Nurgle or chaos Just junked out machine or some rusted hunk on the on your base. This is a great way to go So the other thing we can do here Is we can reapply multiple steps. Don't just stop at one So I go back into the dirty down a second time Okay, and I Re-intensify it in some of the areas. I want to be really really rusty I can then go back feather and sweep the edges of that again and once and you know get a good effect But by building it up layer over layer You can actually get these areas of really really intense rust where it looks like the the steel or whatever material is Just you know, it's a complete it's oxidized all the way through Now contrast paints here, I'm using agarose dunes I don't know how to say that word but you can use any of the contrast paints any of the browns or oranges and stuff like that Will work really well. So instead of feathering it out with just water I'm going to reactivate it and feather it with the contrast paint This is my favorite way to make something really really rusty Because then it mixes with that and you get these really natural transitions between The actual dirty down heavy rust and then what feels like the patina of the light rust and you can do this over a couple different applications You can you know sort of contrast over the things smooth it out feather the edge go back in apply a little more contrast over the whole area Reactivate and smooth again apply a little more dirty down like this really works Well, and it's sort of like back and forth and once again once you've reactivated it with the contrast paint You can still wipe with your finger wipe with a brush and so on Now we can also go a little heavier. I apologize this part fell just slightly out of focus I had to re-record all of this multiple times it kept failing and was really making me angry But here I'm just going to use Rhinox hide and instead of smoothing out the rust I can Reinforce the rust so in the areas of heavy rust I can stipple and dab stipple and dab some Rhinox hide into there to show areas of really dark brown rust in the same way I can then grab some orange paint so some like rusty orange paint and I can then fill that out where it's Yeah, super duper heavily rusted so right along edges on the actual rivets themselves On any of those edges again where water would gather I can do the same thing with the vertigree color grabbing a lighter color vertigree and Then just sort of dabbing along the edges along recesses where the vertigree would be more intense or heavier To reinforce that effect so in either case you don't have to stop With just what that effect gives you you can paint around it drawing the color out Or you can paint on top of it to intensify the effect whether it's additional orange or additional vertigree I can then also smooth the connection by doing streaks very light streaks with the vertigree So whether it's the rust color or the vertigree color or anything like that You can also just run simple streaks and use this as a streaking medium either way you get an awesome effect So there you go you can see how no matter what you're going for whether it's Light rust up to you know something. That's a truly Nurgleized rusted hunk of junk Using these various techniques and these products can be really really really a great tool in your arsenal I have to say the dirty down products. They are a little expensive, but I do think they're really awesome The effect you get is rather unique. It's super matte It's super credible and in my mind it really really combines well with everything else we already use To make really really awesome looking weathered rusted Beat up Miniatures. It's also great for things like bases and stuff like that too So don't sleep on those opportunities today. We focused mostly on the miniature But of course when you're doing mossy bases or old things that are sitting out and ruined under your miniatures This can be an excellent product for that as well So thank you very much. I hope you enjoyed this if you did hey give it a like Subscribe for additional hobby cheating in the future. 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