 Warning, working inside a CRT can be dangerous. Viewer discretion is advised. Hey there everybody, we're deep into things already to start off today's episode. This was just an impromptu video actually about this Sony PVM 1344Q. This one's from October of 1988. And the issue on this one was it just didn't power on properly. So we found out that the power supply was dead. And I had a replacement available. So the owner decided that they wanted to get some more servicing done to their monitor. Obviously it's filthy as far as dirt. Probably never been open since 1988. And anyway, I don't know if you could see that. There it is. There's a look at our tube model number there. But anyway, we're gonna get in here and service this one. This one is a unique design, one of the older designs from Sony. And one of the things they used to do back then was silicone the anode cap to the tube itself up here. And you can see that. And so that presents a challenge to get that off. And most of the times I decide to just leave it in place and never actually remove it or mess with it. And this is the high voltage resistor assembly that's in here that's a proprietary part from Sony. Sometimes it can go bad and that's really a pain because again, look at that. It's all one solid encased unit. And it's very difficult to find any old stock of that. So this is something you kind of have to be careful with where you just don't even mess with this whole area if you end up having to look inside and service one of these. Like I did here, you could pull the board over to the side and check the capacitors and recap it and do some work on it. Now specifically, this one's gonna get a deflection cap which is about 35 caps in this area. But check out this. This is another cool thing about this particular monitor is this cap right here is definitely bad. We're gonna zoom in a little bit. I'm gonna add some more lighting and then you'll be able to see how it's kind of concave on the top. It's a little bit difficult to see from this angle. I'm trying to get down there so you can see how it cones up maybe a little bit. But that's noticeable. You also have some weird fluid coming out of the top here but if we look down at the bottom, check that out. Looks like some fluid's starting to peek out from the bottom there possibly. Now it could be some epoxy but I'll be honest, it looks more like just nasty gloop that's coming from maybe melting the plastic and the way it's reacting at the bottom of this capacitor with the electrolytic fluid. So this one's definitely gonna come out. We'll pull it and take a closer look at that and see what exactly is going on in that specific spot. But besides that, we're gonna go through and recap all these capacitors basically in this whole area, in this area, and then a few up in this area too around these hot spots that do control your deflection and your vertical and horizontal actual screen controls. So both these capacitors in this area are slightly bulged and they both look pretty bad from just a visual inspection point. So I've got the board ready, again, still attached there and we're gonna flip it over and before I even remove these two capacitors, we're gonna take a look at what their readings are in circuit with an ESR capacitor tester. So these are gonna be on the higher capacitance. One of them is a, actually one of them's a 22 so that's not too high and then a 33 so they're gonna need to be pretty much over 1.2 ohms right there on this meter for it to read bad. All right, the two capacitors I'm testing here are just down here and this does have an automatic discharge mode. So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna test this capacitor right here and then this capacitor right here and both of them are probably bad but I put the red on the positive lead and we'll see what it reads up here. So even though it, you know, let's see. So we're at a 2.0 ohms reading with this meter which again is gonna put it into this yellow almost red zone. Let's see what the other one reads. Oh yeah, see this one is definitely gone. This one's all the way up to 20 ohms and it's the one that, it's the one see here it's the one that was bulging for sure. So absolutely this one is done. Let's remove them and then we'll see what the meter says with them out of circuit if that changes anything. Let's pull these capacitors starting with this bigger bottom one. We're gonna use the HACCO FR-301. So there's our first capacitor. We have number two there. All right, here's our meter set up and we're gonna read these capacitors out of circuit and see if they read any differently. Now this is the one that was reading really bad up there at the 20 ohms. It's a 160 33 microfarad capacitor and I'm gonna put just the negative to negative here and the positive to positive and we'll see what it says again out of circuit. So still reading 20 ohms which is pretty awesome meaning that this tool was reading the same for that capacitor in circuit as out of circuit and that's really the benefit to this particular tool over many of the others that I've talked about. It's easy to get in circuit readings and testings here on capacitors. Let's see what this one says. Still right at 2.0. So that's incredible accuracy and consistency there. Just shows you this tool is amazing. I mean, you can tell if I can test these capacitors without pulling them every time and get a reading as to whether they're failed or passed that that is just an amazing savings of time and efficiency for me and really anybody who does this kind of work. Now if we take a look at our board over here and see what it looks like where the capacitors were, there is a weird dark spot over here on both the positive ends and that is kind of a powdery substance. I thought maybe it was a glue but again, it's a weird powdery substance. I'm assuming that's coming from the capacitor and the electrolytic fluid and then if we look closely here at the actual capacitor itself on the positive end, you'll see kind of a fluid discharge on that positive rail right there and then if we look at the other one and again, this one is still technically reading like usable but it's starting to leak right there on that positive node also right there. All right, so the next step is to remove the rest of the caps in here and then we'll clean the boards, install the new cap kit and we'll come take a look at the finished board before we reassemble and test the CRT. New capacitor kit has been installed here and we've got all these deflection points serviced. I did notice when I was going through the monitor that there was a jumper wire right here that's been severed and I think this might be something to do with a factory fix later on because the monitor did test fine before I started servicing it. So that's just an interesting point right there is that that was done and since it's from 1988 and this model did go into the early 90s, I do suspect that a lot of these things where there were components added to this board were to fix things that were changed from the original design or the way that the board came out of the factory. We've also gone through and reflowed solder on this board on a lot of these points, it's been cleaned also and hopefully this will really extend the life and help us get a great picture on this PVM. So now we're ready to get this circuit board back into our cleaned up tube and chassis so I can show you that area just quickly here because it is a lot cleaner than what it was when it started but now we're gonna get this all put back together. We need to make one more modification to something that I need to show you real quick first though. One of the final things we're gonna look at is this input board and obviously it's gotta be cleaned but the one thing we can do is modify this to give us an extra audio input for our RGB. Now, Sony originally made this and did not include an input for you to use the mono speaker with the RGB line down here. However, thanks to Andy King he was able to discover that he could do this very easy modification and then you can use line A up here and then use that with RGB in sync and it'll allow you to use the speaker with the monitor. So we're gonna do that modification. Now the good thing about this modification is it doesn't even change anything on the monitor so you could still use this speaker input with line A. It's just you can also use it with RGB. So if you want more information on that I will put a link to Andy's website in the description, the CRT database. But if you look over here on the backside of the board it will say the QD board and then the QE board over here. What you need to do is just look at this bunch of wires right here and what you're looking for is that RGB line right there. And all you have to do is sever that red cable and that's the fourth cable right here. So you just pull this apart like this. So then all you have to do is just remove that cord and everything will work on the audio. And that's really all you have to do for this modification. And again, you're not losing any kind of performance or anything on the monitor by doing this. All right, now it's time to get everything cleaned up and reassemble the monitor and we'll do some testing. We've got things set up here for our first test run. We've got the monitor completely reassembled. On the inputs you can see I've got RGB and external sync and then our audio is connected there with a Y cable into the A audio for line A. And that's fed over here to a triple bypass Sega Genesis, model two, and we've got the lovely Mega Man the Wiley Wars remake right there. And then if you look over here, this is the power supply unit and this is a replacement power supply. So it was previously serviced and it tested out good. So that's installed. And since we have this lovely ESD mod mat here, we can just leave this open like this and test it as is. We've got the neckboard in place, everything's ready to go. So now let's just change our lighting and we can go around front and turn this on and hopefully we'll have an image and some audio. Well, there you go. We've definitely got the audio coming through. We'll normally take a second for this to pop up. Hell, there you go. Good old Mega Man. And see, I can adjust that audio right there on the front by pressing up and down. So that's very handy to at least be able to use that speaker. All right, well there we have it. Now I need to go through, make some adjustments with the 240p test suite and then we'll come back and have one final little chit chat about this monitor. Well, the PVM is working great. It's been testing for a while and it's pretty much ready to go. It's got obviously some sonic running on here but I think today's big takeaway for this video is gonna be the importance of having some good tools in your arsenal. If you're gonna be working on machines like this, something like this can save you tons of time and troubleshooting just if you're able to go through and check components without even removing them from the board. Now unfortunately this device is not fail safe so you do run into times where you might even still have to remove a component to get a reading for it. However, you saw today how we were able to get that reading while it was in circuit and then we removed the capacitors and double checked and our readings were coming straight in the same as they were when they were in circuit. So that's good proof that this actually is working and doing what it's supposed to do but that's gonna do it for today's video and this one on the Sony PVM 1342Q. Please let me know if you have any questions or comments below in the comment section and if you want to hang out for a little bit longer, I'm gonna have some demonstrations of this PVM going and I'll let you see just how it looks in RGB and that'll do it for today. Thanks again for watching. I'll see you all next time with some more retro content. Let's look at one final thing before we get out of here. I got this new tool and it's a dual output outlet that will actually test and verify the amount of power we're using in a combo that would have, for example, a PVM and then a console. So if we check out the console's native power supply and this is an OEM Sega power supply, it's drawing, oh, five watts right now. It might jump up to almost seven right there and it'll fluctuate between those two points and if we check out the PVM, we're gonna sit at 74 watts. So we're over 80 watts for usage as we have this whole setup powered on and then if we look at the back of the PVM, it is rated to go 99 watts max. I have not seen it peak at 99 watts but it has gotten up to over 80. So anyway, that's something to look forward to us, verify more often with these monitors.