 CHAPTER XIII. PART I. Our cruise on the lake Tanganyika, exploration of the north end of the lake, the Rusezi is discovered to enter into the lake, returned to Ujiji. QUOTE I distinctly deny that any misleading by my instructions from the Royal Geographical Society as to the position of the White Nile made me unconscious of the vast importance of ascertaining the direction of the Rusezi River. The fact is, we did our best to reach it and we failed. BERTON'S ZANSABAR QUOTE The universal testimony of the natives to the Rusezi River being an influent is the most conclusive argument that does run out of the lake. SPECKA QUOTE I therefore claim, for the lake Tanganyika, the honour of being the southernmost reservoir of the Nile, until some more positive evidence, by actual observation, shall otherwise determine it. FINDLY R.G.S. QUOTE Had Livingston and myself, after making up our minds to visit the northern head of the lake Tanganyika, being compelled by the absurd demands or fears of a crew of Wajiji to return to Unyamjumbe, without having resolved the problem of the Rusezi River, we had surely deserved to be greeted by everybody at home with the universal giggling and cackling. But Captain Burton's failure to settle it, by engaging Wajiji and that ridiculous savage chief Kenena, had warned us of the negative assistance we could expect from such people for the solution of a geographical problem. We had good enough sailors with us, who were entirely under our commands. Could we but procure the loan of a canoe, we thought all might be well. Upon application to Said bin Majid, he at once generously permitted us to use his canoe for any service for which we might require it. After engaging two Wajiji guides at two Dota each, we prepared to sail from the port of Ujiji, in about a week or so after my entrance into Ujiji. I have already stated how it was that the doctor and I undertook the exploration of the northern half of the Tanganyika and the river Rusezi, about which so much had been said and written. Before embarking on this enterprise, Dr. Livingston had not definitely made up his mind which course he should take, as his position was truly deplorable. His servants consisted of Susi, Chumha, Hamyoda, Gardner, and Halama, the female cook and wife of Hamoyda. To these was added Kaif Halek, the man whom I compelled to follow me from Unyamyambe to deliver the Livingston letters to his master. Wither could Dr. Livingston march with these few men and the few tablecloths and beads that remained to him from the store squandered by the imbecile sheriff. This was a puzzling question. Had Dr. Livingston been in good health, his usual hardy-hood and indominal spirit had answered it in a summary way. He might have borrowed some cloth from Sayid bin Majid at an exorbitant price sufficient to bring him to Unyamyambe and the sea coast. But how long would he have been compelled to sit down at Ujiji waiting and waiting for the goods that were said to be at Unyamyambe? A prey to high expectations, hoping day after day that the war would end, hoping week after week to hear that his goods were coming. Who knows how long his weak health had borne up against the several disappointments to which he would be subjected. Though it was with all due deference to Dr. Livingston's vast experience as a traveller, I made bold to suggest the following courses to him, either of which he could adopt. First, to go home, and take the rest he so well deserved, and, as he appeared then, to be so much in need of. Second, to proceed to Unyamyambe, receive his goods and enlist Pagazi sufficient to enable him to travel anywhere, either to Maniunga or Rua, and settle the Nile problem, which he said he was in a fair way of doing. Third, to proceed to Unyamyambe, receive his caravan, enlist men, and try to join Sir Samuel Baker, either by going to Maniunga, and sailing through Ucarawi, or Victoria Nyandza, in my boats, which I should put up to Matissa's place at Uganda, thus passing by Murambo and Suhraru of Usui, who would rob him if he took the usual caravan road to Uganda, thence from Matissa to Kamrasi, king of Uyoro, where he would of course hear of the great white man who is said to be with a large force of men of Rwanda Koro. Fourth, to proceed to Unyamyambe, receive his caravan, enlist men, and return to Anjiji, and back to Maniunga by way of Uguha. Fifth, to proceed by way of the Rusezi through Rwanda, and so on to Itara, Unyoro, and Baker. For either course, whichever he thought most expedient, I and my men would assist him as escort and carriers to the best of our ability. If he should elect to go home, I informed him that I should be proud to escort him and consider myself subject to his commands, travelling only when he desired, and camping only when he gave the word. Sixth, the last course which I suggested to him was to permit me to escort him to Unyamyambe. There he could receive his own goods, and where I could deliver up to him a large supply of first-class cloth and beads, guns, and ammunition, cooking utensils, clothing, boats, tents, etc. And where he could rest in a comfortable house while I would hurry down to the coast, organize a new expedition composed of fifty or sixty faithful men, well-armed, by whom I could send an additional supply of needful luxuries in the shape of creature comforts. After long consideration he resolved to adopt the last course, as it appeared to him to be the most feasible one, and the best. Though he did not hesitate to comment upon the unaccountable apathy of his agent at Zanzibar, which had caused him so much trouble and vexation, and rear-marching of hundreds of miles. Our ship, though nothing more than a cranky canoe hollowed out of a noble Umbuli tree of Ungoma, was an African argo bound on a nobler enterprise than its famous Grecian prototype. We were bound upon no mercenary errand, after no gold and fleece, but perhaps to discover a highway for commerce which should bring the ships of the Nile up to Ujiji, Usoa, and the Far Marungo. We did not know what we might discover on our voyage to the northern head of the Tanganyika. We supposed that we should find the Rusezi to be an effluent of the Tanganyika, flowing down to the Albert, or the Victoria Nyanza. We were told by natives in Arabs that the Rusezi ran out of the lake. Said bin Majid had stated that his canoe would carry twenty-five men and three thousand five hundred pounds of ivory. Acting upon this information we embarked twenty-five men, all of whom had stored away bags of salt for the purposes of trade with the natives. But upon pushing off from the shore near Ujiji, we discovered that the boat was too heavily laden, and was down to the gun-wheel. Returning inshore we disembarked six men and unloaded the bags of salt which left us with sixteen rowers, Salim, Farajij, the Cook, and the two Ujiji Guides. Having thus properly trimmed our boat, we again pushed off and steered her head for Bangui Island, which was distanced four or five miles from the Bunder of Ujiji. While passing this island, the Guides informed us that the Arabs and Ujiji took shelter on it during an incursion of the Watuta, which took place some years ago when they came and invaded Ujiji, and massacred several of the inhabitants. Those who took refuge on the island were the only persons who escaped the fire and sword with which the Watuta had visited Ujiji. After passing the island and following the various bends and indentations of the shore, we came in sight of the magnificent bay of Kigoma, which strikes one at once as being an excellent harbor from the variable winds which blow over the Tanganyika. About ten a.m. we drew in towards the village of Kigoma, as the east wind was then rising and threatened to drive us to sea. With those travelling parties who were not in much hurry, Kigoma is always the first port for canoes bound north from Ujiji. The next morning at dawn we struck tent, stowed baggage, cooked and drank coffee, and set off northward again. The lake was calm, its waters of a dark green colour reflected this serene blue sky above. The hippopotamia came up to breathe in alarmingly close proximity to our canoe, and then plunged their heads again, as if they were playing hide-and-seek with us. Arriving opposite the high-witted hills of Bemba, and being a mile from shore, we thought it a good opportunity to sound the depth of the water, whose colours seemed to indicate great depth. We found thirty-five fathoms at this place. Our canoeing of this day was made close in shore, with a range of hills, beautifully wooded and clothed with green grass, sloping abruptly, almost precipitously, into the depths of the fresh water sea. Towering immediately above us, and as we rounded the several capes or points, roused high expectation of some new wonder, or some exquisite picture being revealed as the deep folds disclosed themselves to us. Nor were we disappointed. The wooded hills, with the wealth of bosque edge of beautiful trees, many of which were in bloom, and crowned with floral glory, exhaling and indescribably sweet fragrance, lifting their heads in varied contour. One pyramidal, another a truncated cone, one table-topped, another ridgy, like the steep roof of a church, one a glorious heave with an even outline, another jagged and savage interested us considerably. And the pretty pictures, exquisitely pretty, at the head of the several bays evoked many an exclamation of admiration. It was the most natural thing in the world that I should feel deepest admiration for these successive pictures of quiet, scenic beauty, but the doctor had quite as much to say about them as I had myself, though as one might imagine, satiated with pictures of this kind far more beautiful, far more wonderful, he should long ago have expended all his powers of admiring scenes in nature. From Bagamayo to Ujiji I had seen nothing to compare to them. None of these fishing settlements under the shade of a grove of palms and plantations, banyans and mimosa, with cassava gardens in the right and left of palmie forests, and patches of luxuriant grain looking down upon a quiet bay whose calm waters at the early morn reflected the beauties of the hills, which sheltered them from the rough and boisterous tempest that so often blew without. The fishermen evidently think themselves comfortably situated. The lake affords them all the fish they require, more than enough to eat, and the industrious a great deal to sell. The steep slopes of the hills, cultivated by the housewives, contribute plenty of grain, such as dowura and indian corn, besides cassava, groundnuts or peanuts, and sweet potatoes. The palm trees afford oil, and the plantains and abundance of delicious fruit. The ravines and deep gullies supply them with the tall shapely trees from which they cut out their canoes. Nature has supplied them bountifully with all that a man's heart or stomach can desire. It is while looking at what seems both externally and internally complete and perfect happiness that the thought occurs. How must these people sigh when driven across the dreary wilderness that intervenes between the lake country and the sea coast for such homes as these? Those unfortunate who, bought by the Arabs for a couple of dodai, are taken away to Zanzibar to pick clothes, or to do Hamal work. As we drew near Niosanga, our second camp, the comparison between the noble array of picturesque hills and receding coves with their pastoral and agricultural scenes, and the shores of old Pontus, was very great. A few minutes before we hauled our canoe ashore, two little incidents occurred. I shot an enormous dog-faced monkey, which measured from nose to end of tail four feet nine inches. The face was eight and a half inches long. Its body weighed about one hundred pounds. It had no mane or tuft at the end of the tail, but the body was covered with long, wiry hair. Numbers of these specimens were seen, as well as of the act of cat-headed and longer-tailed smaller ones. The other was in sight of a large lizard, about two foot six inches long, which waddled into cover before we had well noticed it. The doctor thought it to be the monitor terrestris. We encamped under a banyan tree. Our surroundings were the now light gray waters of the Tanganyika, an amphitheateral range of hills and the valley of Niosanga, situated at the mouth of the rivulet Niosanga, with its grove of palms, thicket of plantains, and plots of grain and cassava fields. Near our tent were about half a dozen canoes, large and small, belonging to the villagers. Our tent door fronted the glorious expanse of fresh water, inviting the breeze, and the views of distant Ugoma and Nunkaramba, and the island of Musimu, whose ridges appeared of a deep blue color. At our feet were the clean and well-washed pebbles, born upward into tiny lines and heaps by the restless surf. A search amongst these would reveal to us the material of the mountain heaps, which rose behind us and to our right and left. There was schist, conglomerate sandstone, a hard white clay, and ocherish clay containing much iron, polished quartz, etc. Looking out of our tent we could see a line on each side of us of thick tall reeds, which formed something like a hedge between the beach and the cultivated area around Niosanga. Among birds seen here the most noted were the merry wag-tails, which are regarded as good omens and the messengers of peace by the natives, and any harm done to them is quickly resented and is finable. Most of them is cheviously inclined. They offer no inducement to commit violence. On landing they flew to meet us, balancing themselves in the air in front within easy reach of our hands. The other birds were crows, turtledoves, fish-hawks, king-fishers, ibis nigra, and ibris religiosa, flocks of white-dub-birds, geese, darters, patty-birds, kites, and eagles. At this place the doctor suffered from dysentery. It is his only weak point, he says, and as I afterwards found it is a frequent complaint with him. Whatever disturbed his mind or any irregularity in eating was sure to end in an attack of dysentery, which had lately become of a chronic character. The third day of our journey on the Tanganika brought us to Zasi River and village after a four-hours pull. Along the line of road the mountains rose two thousand and two thousand five hundred feet above the waters of the lake. I imagined the scenery getting more picturesque and animated at every step, and though it is far lovelier than anything seen near Lake George or on the Hudson. The cozy nooks at the head of the many small bays constitute most admirable pictures, filled in as they were with the ever-beautiful, feathery palms and broad green plant in fronds. These nooks have all been taken possession of by fishermen, and their conically beehive-shaped huts always peep from under the frondage. The shores are thus extremely populous. Every terrace, small plateau, and bit of level ground is occupied. Zasi is easily known by a group of conical hills which raise nearby and are called Kirasa. Opposite to these, at a distance of about a mile from shore, we sounded and obtained thirty-five fathoms as on the previous day. Getting out a mile further I let go the whole length of my line, one hundred and fifteen fathoms, and obtained no bottom. Growing it up again the line parted and I lost the lead, with three-fourths of the line. The doctor stated, apropos of this, that he had sounded opposite the lofty kabogo south of Ujiji and obtained the great depth of three-hundred fathoms. He had also lost his lead in one hundred fathoms of his line, but he had nearly nine hundred fathoms left, and this was in the canoes. We hope to use this long-sounding line in going across from the eastern to the western shore. On the fourth day we arrived in Nyambigma, a sandy island in Urundi. We had passed a boundary line between Ujiji and Urundi, half an hour before arriving at Nyambigma. The Umshala River is considered by both nations to be the proper divisional line, though there are parties of Urundi who have emigrated beyond the frontier into Ujiji. For instance, the Mutwari and villagers of the Papus Kagunga distant an hour north from Zasi. There are also several small parties of Ujiji who have taken advantage of the fine lands in the deltas of the Kassokui, Namusinga and Laoba rivers, the first two of which enter the Tanganika in this bay, near the head of which Nyambigma is situated. From Nyambigma a pretty good view of the deep curve in the great mountain range which stretches from Cape Kazinga and terminates at Cape Kassofu may be obtained, a distance of twenty or twenty-five miles. It is the most imposing scene, this great Hampi-Riji and a regular line of mountains. Deep ravines and chasms afford outlets to the numerous streams and rivers which take their rise in the background. The pale, fleecy aether almost always shrouds its summit. From its base extends a broad alluvial plain, rich beyond description, teeming with palms and plantains and embracious trees. Villages are seen in clusters everywhere. Into this alluvial plain run the Luaba or Ruaba River on the north side of the Cape Ketunda, and the Kassokui, Namusinga and Namshala rivers on the south side of the Cape. All the deltas of rivers emptying into the Tanganika are hedged in in all sides with a thick growth of Mateta, a gigantic species of grass and papyrus. In some deltas, as that of Luaba and Kassokui, morasses have been formed in which the Mateta and papyrus jungle is impenetrable. In the depths of them are quiet and deep pools, frequented by various aquatic birds such as geese, ducks, snipes, wiggins, kingfishers and ibis, cranes and storks, and pelicans. To reach their haunts is, however, a work of great difficulty to the sportsmen in quest of game, a work often attended with great danger from the treacherous nature of these morasses as well as from the dreadful attacks of fever which in these regions invariably follow wet feet and wet clothes. At Nyambigma we prepared by distributing ten rounds of ammunition to each of our men for a tussle with the warundi of two stages ahead, should they invite it by a two-forward exhibition of their prejudice to strangers. At dawn of the fifth day we quitted the haven of Nyambigma Island and in less than an hour had arrived of Cape Ketunda. This Cape is a low platform of conglomerate sandstone extending for about eight miles from the base of the Great Mountain Curve which gives birth to the Luaba and its sister streams. Crossing the deep bay, at the head of which is the delta of the Luaba, we came to Cape Kessofu. Villagers are numerous in this vicinity. From hence we obtained a view of a series of points or capes, Kigongo, Katunga, and Buggaluka, all of which we passed before coming to a halt at the pretty position of Mukungu. At Mukungu we were stopped on the fifth day. We were asked for honga, or tribute. The cloth and beads upon which we substituted during our lake voyages were mine, but the doctor, being the elder of the two, more experienced, and the big man of the party, had the charge of satisfying all such demands. Many and many a time had I gone through the tedious and soul-wearing task of settling the honga, and I was quite curious to see how the Great Traveller would perform the work. The Mateko, a man inferior to a mutwari, of Mukunga, asked for two and a half dhoti. This was the extent of the demand which he made known to us a little after dark. The doctor asked if nothing had been brought to us. He was answered no. It was too late to get anything now. But if we paid the honga, the Mateko would be ready to give us something when we came back. Livingston, upon hearing this, smiled, and the Mateko, being then and there in front of him, he said to him, Well, if you can't get us anything now, and intend to give us something when we return, then we had better keep the honga until then. The Mateko was rather taken aback at this, and he mirrored to any such proposition. Seeing that he was dissatisfied, we urged him to bring one sheep, one little sheep, for our stomachs were nearly empty, having been waiting for more than half a day for it. The appeal was successful, for the old man hastened and brought us a lamb in a three-gallon pot of sweet but strong zaga, or palm-toddy, and in return the doctor gave him two-and-a-half dot-i of cloth. The lamb was killed, and our digestions being good, its flesh agreed with us, but alas for the effects of zaga, or palm-toddy. Susie, the invaluable adjunct of Dr. Livingston, and Bombay, and the headman of my caravan, were the two charged with watching the canoe, but having imbibed too freely of this intoxicating toddy, they slept heavily, and in the morning the doctor and I had to regret the loss of several valuable and indispensable things, among which may be mentioned the doctor's 900-fathom sounding line, 500 rounds of pin-rim, and central fire cartridges for my arms, and 90 musket bullets also belonging to me. Besides these, which were indispensable in hostile warundi, a large bag of flour and the doctor's entire stock of white sugar were stolen. This was the third time that my reliance in Bombay's trustworthiness resulted in a great loss to me. For the ninety-ninth time I had to regret bitterly having placed such entire confidence in Speck's loud commendation of him. It was only the natural cowardice of ignorant thieves that prevented the savages from taking the boat and its entire contents, together with Bombay and Susie as slaves. I can well imagine the joyful surprise which must have been called forth at the sight an exquisite taste of the doctor's sugar and wonder with which they must have remarked the strange ammunition of Osungu. It is to be sincerely hoped that they did not hurt themselves with the explosive bullets and rim cartridges through any ignorance of the nature of the deadly contents, in which ease the box and its contents would prove a very Pandora's casket. Much grieved at our loss, we set off on the sixth day at the usual hour on our watery journey. We coasted close to the several low headlines formed by the rivers Kiguena, Kikuma, and Kisunwe, and when any bay promised to be interesting, steered the canoe according to its indentations. While traveling on the water, each day brought forth similar scenes. On our right rose the mountains of Orundi, now and then disclosing the ravines through which the several rivers and streams issued into the Great Lake. At their base were the alluvial plains, where flourished the oil palm and grateful plantain, while scores of villagers were grouped under their shade. Now and then we passed long narrow strips of pebbly or sandy beach, whereupon markets were improvised for selling fish and the staple products of the respective communities. Then we passed broad swampy morasses formed by the numerous streams which the mountains discharged, where the mette and papyrus flourished. Now the mountains approached to the water, their sides descending abruptly to the water's edge. Then they receded into deep folds, at the base of which was sure to be seen an alluvial plain from one to eight miles broad. Most constantly we observed canoes being plunged vigorously close to the surf in fearless defiance of catastrophe, such as a cap size and galling up by voracious crocodiles. Sometimes we sighted a canoe a short distance ahead of us, whereupon our men, with song and chorus, would exert themselves to the utmost to overtake it. Upon observing our efforts the natives would bend themselves to their tasks, and paddling standing in stark naked gave us ample opportunities for studying at our leisure comparative anatomy. Or we saw a group of fishermen lazily reclining in purist, natural lubus on the beach, regarding with curious eye the canoes as they passed their neighborhood. Then we passed the flotilla of canoes, their owners sitting quietly in their huts, busily plying the rod and hook or casting their nets, or a couple of men arranging their hook or casting their nets, or a couple of men arranging their long drag nets close inshore for a haul, or children sporting fearlessly in the water with their mothers looking on approvingly from under the shade of a tree, from which I inferred that there are not many crocodiles in the lake, except in the neighborhood of the large rivers. CHAPTER XIII PART 2 OF HOW I FOUND LIVINGSTON This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Read by Anton Epp. How I Found Livingston Travels, Adventures, and Discoveries in Central Africa, including Four Months Residence with Dr. Livingston. By Sir Henry M. Stanley. CHAPTER XIII PART 2. OUR CREWS ON THE LAKE TANGANICA. EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH END OF THE LAKE. THE RUSSIZE IS DISCOVERED TO ENTER INTO THE LAKE. After passing the low headland of Kisunwe, formed by the Kisunwe River, we came in view of Murembwe Cape, distant about four or five miles, the intervening ground being lowland, a sand and pebbly beach. Close to the beach are scores of villages, while the crowded shore indicates the populace of the place beyond. About half way between Cape Kisunwe and Murembwe is a cluster of villages called Bikari, which has a mutwari who is in the habit of taking honga. As we were rendered unable to cope for any length of time with any mischievously inclined community, all villages having a bad reputation with the Wajiji were avoided by us. But even the Wajiji guides were sometimes mistaken and let us more than once into dangerous places. The guides evidently had no objections to Halt at Bikari, as it was the second camp from Mokongu, because with them a halt in the cool shade of plantains was infinitely preferable to sitting like carved pieces of wood in a cranky canoe. But before they stated their objections and preferences, the Bikari people called to us in a loud voice to come ashore, threatening us with the vengeance of the great Wami if we did not halt. As the voices were anything but siren-like, we obstinately refused to accede to the request. During threats of no avail, they had recourse to stones, and accordingly flung them at us in a most hearty manner. As one of them came within a foot of my arm, I suggested that a bullet be sent in return and close proximity to their feet. But Livingston, though he said nothing, yet showed plainly enough that he did not quite approve of this. As these demonstrations of hostility were anything but welcome, and as we saw signs of it almost every time we came opposite a village, we kept on our way until we came to Murwenbuy Point, which, being a delta of a river of the same name, as well as protected by a breath of thorny jungle, spiky cane, and a thick growth of reed and papyrus from which the boldest Marundi might well shrink, especially if he called to mind that beyond this inhospitable swamp were the guns of the strangers his like had so rudely challenged. We drew our canoe ashore here, and, on a limited area of clean sand, Faraji, our rough-and-ready cook, lit his fire, and manufactured for us a supply of most delicious mocha coffee. Despite the dangers which still beset us, we were quite happy, and seasoned our meal with the little moral philosophy, which lifted us unconsciously into infinitely superior beings to the pagans by whom we were surrounded, upon whom we now looked down, under the influence of mocha coffee and moral philosophy, with calm contempt, not unmixed with a certain amount of compassion. The doctor related some experiences he had had among the people of similar disposition, but did not fail to ascribe them with the wisdom of a man of ripe experience to the unwise conduct of the Arabs and half-casts. In this opinion I unreservedly concur. From Murenbuy Point, having finished our coffee and ended our discourse on ethics, we proceeded on our voyage, steering for Cape Senteke, which, though it was eight or ten miles away, we hoped to make before dark. The Wangwana pulled with right goodwill, but ten hours went by, and the night was drawing near, and we were still far from Senteke. As it was a fine, moonlit night, and we were fully alive to the dangerous position in which we might find ourselves, they'd consented to pull an hour or two more. About one p.m. we pulled inshore for a deserted spot, a clean shelf of sand, about thirty feet long by ten deep, from which a clay bank rose about ten or twelve feet above. While in each side there were masses of disintegrating rock, here we thought that by preserving some degree of silence we might escape observation and consequent annoyance for a few hours. When being rested we might continue our journey. Our kettle was boiling for tea, and the men had built a little fire for themselves, and had filled their black earthen pot with water for porridge. In our outlooks perceived dark forms creeping towards our bivouac. Being hailed they at once came forward and saluted us with the native wake. Our guides explained that we were Wangwana, and intended to camp until morning, when, if they had anything to sell, we should be glad to trade with them. They said they were rejoiced to hear this, and after they had exchanged a few words more, during which time we observed that they were taking mental notes of the camp they went away. Upon leaving they promised to return in the morning with food, and make friends with us. While drinking our tea the lookouts warned us of the approach of a second party, which went through the same process of saluting observing as the first had done. These also went away over exuberant, as I thought, and were shortly succeeded by a third party who came and went as the others had. From all this we inferred that the news was spreading rapidly through the villages about, and we noticed two canoes passing backwards and forwards with rather more haste than we deemed usual or necessary. We had good cause to be suspicious. It is not customary for people, at least between Ujiji and Zanzibar, to be about visiting and saluting after dark. Under any pretense it is not permitted to persons to prowl about camp after dark without being shot at, and this going backward and forward, this ostinacious exuberance of joy at the arrival of a small party of Wangwana, which in many parts of Orundi would be regarded as a very common event, was altogether very suspicious. While the doctor and I were arriving at the conclusion that these movements were preliminary to, or significant of, hostility, a fourth body, very boisterous and loud, came and visit us. Our supper had been by this time dispatched, and we thought it high time to act. The fourth party, having gone with extravagant manifestations of delight, the men were hurried into the canoe, and when all were seated and the lookouts embarked, we quietly pushed off, but not a moment too soon. As the canoe was gliding from the darken light that surrounded us, I called the doctor's attention to several dark forms, some of whom were crouching behind the rocks on a right, and others scrambling over them to obtain good or better positions. At the same time people were approaching from the left of our position in the same suspicious way, and directly a voice hailed us from the top of the clay bank overhanging the sandy shelf where we had lately been resting. Neatly done, cried the doctor, as we were shooting through the water, leaving the discomforted, would-be robbers behind us. Here again my hand was stayed from planting a couple of good shots as a warning to them in the future, from molesting strangers, by the more presence of the doctor who, as I thought, if it were actually necessary, would not hesitate to give the word. After pulling six hours more, during which we had rounded Cape Sentekeyi, we stopped at the small fishing village of Mugayo, where we were permitted to sleep unmolested. At dawn we continued our journey, and about 8 a.m. arrived at the village of the friendly Mugwari of Magala. We had pulled for eighteen hours at a stretch, which at the rate of two miles and a half per hour would make forty-five miles. Taking bearings from our camp at Cape Magala, one of the most prominent points in traveling north from Ujiji, we found that the large island of Muzimu, which had been in sight ever since rounding Cape Bangui near Ujiji Bunder, bore about south-southwest, and that the western shore had considerably approached to the eastern, the breadth of the lake being, at this point, about eight or ten miles. We had a good view of the western highlands, which seemed to be of an average height, about three thousand feet above the lake. Luhanga Peak, rising a little to the north of west, for Magala, might be about five hundred feet higher, and Tsumburi-Zi, a little north of Luhanga, where lived Imruta, Sultan of Uvira, the country opposite to this part of Urundi, about three hundred feet higher than the neighboring heights. Northward from Magala Cape, the lake streamed away between two chains of mountains, both meeting at a point about thirty miles north of us. The Warundi of Magala were very civil and profound sterrers. They flocked around the tent door, and most pertinaciously gazed on us, as if we were subjects of the most intense interest, but liable to sudden and eternal departure. The Mewari came to see us late in the afternoon, dressed with great pomp. He turned out to be a boy whom I had noticed in the crowd of gazers, for his good looks and fine teeth, which he showed, being addicted to laughing continually. There was no mistaking him, though he was now decorated with many ivy ornaments, with necklaces, and with heavy brass braids slits, and iron wire anklets. Our admiration of him was reciprocated, and in return for our two dhoti of cloth, and a fundo of samsam, he gave a fine fat and broad-tailed sheep, and a pot of milk. In our condition both were extremely acceptable. At Magala we heard of a war raging between Mukumba, for whose country we were bound, and where Rumshanya, a Sultan of an adjoining district, and we were advised that, unless we intended to assist one of these chiefs against the other, it would be better for us to return. But as we had started to solve the problem of the Rusezi River, such considerations had no weight with us. On the eighth morning from leaving Ujiji, we bade farewell to the hospitable people of Magala, and set off for Mukumba's country, which was in view. Soon after passing the boundary between Urandi proper, and what is known as Usigi, a storm from the southwest arose, and the fearful yawing of our canoe into the wave trough warned us from proceeding further. So we turned her head for Kisuka village, about four miles north, where Mugiri in Usigi begins. At Kisuka a Mugwana living with Mukumba came to see us, and gave us details of the war between Makamba and Waruma Shayana, from which it seemed that these two chiefs were continually at logger heads. It is the tame way of fighting, after all. One chief makes a raid into the other's country, and succeeds in making off with a herd of cattle, killing one or two men who have been surprised. Weeks or months elapsed before the other retaliates, and affects a capture in a similar way, and then a balance is struck in which neither is the gainer. Seldom do they attack each other with courage and hearty good will, the constitution of the African being decidedly against any such energetic warfare. This Mugwana further, upon being questioned, gave us information far more interesting, these about the Rusezi. He told us positively, with the air of a man who knew all about it, and as if anybody who doubted him might well be set down as an egregious ass, that the Rusezi river flowed out of the lake, away to Suna's Mitesa's country. Where else could it flow to, he asked. The doctor was inclined to believe it, or perhaps he was more inclined to let it rest as stated until our own eyes should confirm it. I was more inclined to doubt, as I told the doctor. First it was too good to be true, second the fellow was too enthusiastic upon a subject that could not possibly interest him. His barakalas and inshalas were far too fervid. His answers too much in accordance with our wishes. The doctor laid great stress on the report of a Mugwana he met far south, who stated that the grandfather or father of Ramanika, the present king of Karagwa, had thought of excavating the bed of the Katanguli river in order that his canoes might go to Ujiji to open a trade. From this, I imagine, coinciding as it did with his often expressed and present firm belief that the waters of the Tanganika had an outlet somewhere, the doctor was partial to the report of the Mugwana, but as we proceed we shall see how all this will end. On the ninth morning from Ujiji, about two hours after sunrise, we passed the broad delta of the Mugiri, a river which gives its name also to the district on the eastern shore ruled over by Mukamba. We had come directly opposite the most southern of its three mouths when we found quite a difference in the color of the water. An almost straight line, drawn east and west, from the mouth would serve well to mark off the difference that existed between the waters. On the south side was pure water of a light green, on the north side it was muddy, and a current could be distinctly seen flowing north. Soon, after passing the first mouth, we came to a second, and then a third mouth, each only a few yards broad, but each discharging sufficient water to permit our following the line of the currents several rods north beyond the respective mouths. Beyond the third mouth of the Mugiri, a bend disclosed itself, with groups of villages beyond on its bank. These were Mukambas, and in one of them lived Mukamba, the chief. The natives had never yet seen a white man, and of course, as soon as we landed, we were surrounded by a large concourse, all armed with long spears, the only weapon visible amongst them, save a club-stick, and here and there a hatchet. We were shown into a hut, which the doctor and I shared between us. What followed on that day I have but a dim recollection, having been struck down by fever, the first since leaving Umyam Yabe. I dimly recollect, trying to make out what age Mukamba might be, and noting that he was good looking with all, and kindly disposed towards us, and during the intervals of agony and unconsciousness I saw, or fancied I saw, Livingston's form moving towards me, and felt, or fancied I felt, Livingston's hand tenderly feeling my hot head and limbs. I had suffered several fevers between Bagamoyo and Umyam Yabe, without anything or anybody to relieve me of the tedious racking headache and pain, or to illuminate the dark and gloomy prospect which must necessarily surround the bedside of the sick and solitary traveler. But though this fever, having enjoyed immunity from it for three months, was more severe than usual, I did not much regret its occurrence, since I became the recipient of the very tender and fatherly kindness of the good man whose companion I now found myself. The next morning, having recovered slightly from the fever, when Mukamba came with the presence of an ox, a sheep, and a goat, I was able to attend to the answers which he gave to the questions about the Rusezi River and the head of the lake. The ever cheerful and enthusiastic Ungwana was there also, and he was not a wit abashed, when, through him, the chief told us that the Rusezi, joined by the Ruhanda, or Luanda, at a distance of two days' journey by water, or one day by land from the head of the lake, flowed into the lake. Thus our hopes, excited somewhat by the positive and repeated assurances that the river flowed out away towards Karakwa, collapsed as speedily as they were raised. We paid Mukamba the hunger, consisting of nine dhoti and nine fundo of samsam, linghonyo, musuryo, and jigi. The printed handkerchiefs, which I had in abundance at Unyanya Bay, would have gone well here. After receiving his presence, the chief introduced his son, the tall youth of eighteen or thereabouts, to the doctor, as a would-be son of the doctor. But with a good-natured laugh, the doctor scouted all such relationship with him, as it was instituted only for the purpose of drawing more cloth out of him. Mukamba took it in good part, and did not insist on getting more. Our second evening at Mukaba's, Susi, the doctor's servant, got gloriously drunk, through the chief's liberal and perfused gifts of Pombe. Just at dawn, neat morning, I was awakened by hearing several sharp, crack-like sounds. I listened, and I found the noise was in our hut. It was caused by the doctor, who, towards midnight, had felt someone come and lie down by his side on the same bed, and thinking it was me, he had kindly made room and laid down on the edge of the bed. But in the morning, feeling rather cold, he had been thoroughly awakened, and on rising on his elbow to see who his bedfellow was, discovered to his great astonishment that it was no other than his black servant, Susi, who, taking possession of his blankets and folding them about himself most selfishly, was occupying almost the whole bed. The doctor, with that gentleness characteristic of him, instead of taking a rod, had contented himself with slapping Susi on the back, saying, Get up, Susi, will you? You are in my bed. How dare you, sir, get drunk in this way, after I have told you so often not to. Get up, won't you? Take that, and that, and that. Still Susi slept, and grunted. So the slapping continued until even Susi's thick hide began to feel it. Susi was thoroughly awakened to the sense of his want of devotion and sympathy for his master, and the usurping of even his master's bed. Susi looked very much crestfallen after this expose of his infirmity before the little master, as I was called. The next day at dusk, Mukama came to bid us a good-bye, and requested that as soon as we reached his brother, Ruhinga, whose country was at the head of the lake, we should send our canoe back for him, and that in the meanwhile we should leave two of our men with him, with their guns, to help defend him in case Varumashiyana should attack him as soon as we were gone. We embarked and pulled across. In nine hours we had arrived at the head of the lake, Mugiha, the country of Ruhinga, Mukama's elder brother, and looking back to where we had come from we perceived that we had made a diagonal cut across from southeast to northwest, instead of having made a direct east and west course, or in other words, from Mugiiri, which was at least ten miles from the northernmost point of the eastern shore, we had come to Mugihewa, situated at the northernmost point of the western shore. Had we continued along the eastern shore and surrounded the northern side of the lake, we should have passed by Mukanagi, the country of Varumashiyana, and Usubura and Simba, his ally and friend. But by making a diagonal course, as just described, we had arrived at the extreme head of the lake without any difficulty. The country in which we now found ourselves, Mugihewa, is situated in the delta of the Rusezi River. It is an extremely flat country, the highest part of which is not ten feet above the lake, with numerous depressions in it overgrown with the rankest of Matet grass and the tallest of Papyrus and pond-like hollows filled with stagnant water which emit malaria wholesale. Large herds of cattle are reared on it, for where the ground is not covered with marshy plants, it produces rich, sweet grass. The sheep and goats, especially the former, are always in good condition, and though they are not to be compared with English or American sheep, they are the finest I have seen in Africa. Numerous villages are seen on this land because the intervening spaces are not occupied with the rank and luxuriant jungle, common in other parts of Africa. Were it not for the euphorbia colquale of Abyssinia, which some chief has caused to be planted as a defense around the villages, one might see from one end of the Mugihewa to the other. The waters along the head of the lake, from the western to the eastern shores, swarm with crocodiles. From the banks accounted ten heads of crocodiles, and the rocese we were told was full of them. Ruhinga, who came to Sia soon after we had taken up our quarters in his village, was a most amiable man who always contrived to see something that excited his risability. The older by five or six years he said he was a hundred years old. Ben Mukamba he was not half so dignified nor regarded with so much admiration by his people or his younger brother. Ruhinga had a better knowledge, however, of the country than Mukamba and was able to impart his knowledge of the country intelligently. After he had done the honors as chief to us, presiding us with an ox and a sheep, milk and honey, we were not backward in endeavoring to elicit as much information as possible out of him. The summary of the information derived from Ruhinga may be stated as follows. The country bordering the head of the lake from Urandi proper on the eastern shore to Uvira on the western is divided into the following district. First Mughiri, governed by Mukamba, through which issued into the lake the small rivers of Mughiri and Umpanda. Second Mukhanigi, governed by Varumashanya, which occupied the whole of the northeastern head of the lake, through which issued into the lake the small rivers of Karendwa and Mughirawa-Khanigi. Third on the eastern half of the district at the head of the lake was Usumbura, governed by Simvei, ally and friend of Varumashanya, extending to the eastern bank of the Rusezi. Fourth, commencing from the western bank of the Rusezi to the extreme northwestern head of the lake was Mughiri, Ruhinga's country. Fifth, from Uvira on the west, running north past Mughiri and overlapping it on the north side as far as the hills of Chamati was Ruhinga, also a country governed by Mukamba. Beyond Ruhinga, from the hills of Chamati to the Ruhanda river was the country of Chamati. West of Ruhinga, comprising all the mountains for two days journey in that direction, was Uashi. These are the smaller subdivisions of what is commonly known as Ruhinga and Usigi. Ruhinga comprises the countries of Ruhinga and Mughihewa, Usigi, the countries of Usumbura, Makanigi and Mughiri. But all these countries are only part and parcel of Urundi, which comprises all that country bordering the lake from Umshala river on the eastern shore to Uvara on the western, extending over ten days journey direct north from the head of the lake and one month in the northeastern direction to Murukuku, the capital of Umwezi, Sultan of all Urundi. North of Urundi is Ruhanda, also a very large country. End of Chapter 13, Part 2. Chapter 13, Part 3 of How I Found Livingston. This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org, read by Anton Epp. How I Found Livingston. Travels, adventures, and discoveries in central Africa, including four months residence with Dr. Livingston by Sir Henry M. Stanley. Chapter 13, Part 3. Our Cruise on the Lake Tanganika, exploration of the north end of the lake, the Rusezi is discovered to enter into the lake, returned to Ujiji. The Rusezi river, according to Ruhinga, rose near a lake called Kivo, which he said is as long as from Mugahawa to Mughiri, and as broad as from Mugahewa to Arumashanya's country, or, say, 18 miles in length by about 8 in breadth. The lake is surrounded by mountains on the western and northern sides. On the southwestern side of one of these mountains, issues the Rusezi. At first a small rapid stream, but as it proceeds towards the lake, it receives the river's Kaganisi, Kaburan, Mohira, Nayamagana, Nayakagunda, Ruviro, Rofubu, Kavinvira, Moyov, Ruhuha, Mukindu, Sanga, Rubirisi, Kiriba, and, lastly, the Ruvanda river, which seems to be the largest of them all. Kivo Lake is so called from the country in which it is situated. On one side is Mutumbi, probably the utubi of Speck and Baker. On the west side is Rwanda. On the east is Urundi. The name of the chief of Kivo is Kwansebura. After so many minute details about the river Rusezi, it only remained for us to see it. On the second morning of our arrival at Mugahewa, we must attend strong paddlers and set out to explore the head of the lake and the mouth of the Rusezi. We found that the northern head of the lake was indented with seven broad bays, each from one and a half to three miles broad, that long broad spits of sand overgrown with matata separated each bay from the other. The first, starting from west to east, at the broadest part, to the extreme southern point of Mugahewa was about three miles broad and served as a line of demarcation between Mukamba's district of Ruenga and Mugahewa of Ruhinga. It was also two miles deep. The second bay was a mile from the southern extremity of Mugahewa to Ruhinga's village at the head of the bay, and it was a mile across to another spit of sand which was terminated by a small island. The third bay stretched for nearly a mile to a long spit, at the end of which was another island, one and a quarter miles in length, and was the western side of the fourth bay, at the head of which was the delta of the Rusezi. This fourth bay, at its base, was about three miles in depth and penetrated half a mile further inland than any other. Soundings indicated six feet deep, and the same depth was kept to within a few hundred yards of the principal mouth of the Rusezi. The current was very sluggish, not more than a mile an hour. Though we constantly kept our binocular searching for the river, we could not see the main channel until within 200 yards of it, and then only by watching what outlet the fishing canoes came out. The bay at this point had narrowed from two miles to about 200 yards in breadth. Inviting a canoe to show us the way, a small flotilla of canoes preceded us from the sheer curiosity of the owners. We followed, and in a few minutes were ascending the stream which was very rapid, though but about 10 yards wide and very shallow, not more than two feet deep. We ascended about half a mile, the current being very strong, from six to eight miles an hour, and quite far enough to observe the nature of the stream at its embouchure. We could see that it widened and spread out in a myriad of channels, rushing by isolated clumps of sedge and matete grass, and that it had the appearance of a swamp. We had ascended the central or main channel. The western channel was about eight yards broad. We observed, after we had returned to the bay, that the easternmost channel was about six yards broad and about 10 feet deep, but very sluggish. We had thus examined each of its three mouths and settled all doubts as to the Roussisi being effluent or influent. It was not necessary to ascend higher, there being nothing about the river itself to repay exploration of it. The question, was the Roussisi an effluent or an influent, was answered forever. There was now no doubt any more on that point. In size it was not to be compared with the Malagurazi river. Neither is it or can it be navigable for anything but the smallest canoes. The only thing remarkable about it is that it abounds in crocodiles, but not one hippopotamus was seen, which may be taken as another evidence of its shallowness. The bays to the east of the Roussisi are of the same conformation as those on the west, carefully judging from the width of the several bays from point to point and of the several spits which separate them, the breadth of the lake may be said to be about 12 to 14 miles. Had we contented ourselves with simply looking at the conformation and the meaning of the eastern and western ranges, we should have said that the lake ended in a point as Captain Speck ahead sketched it on his map, but its exploration dissolved that idea. Chamante Hill is the extreme northern termination of the western range and seems upon a superficial examination to a butt against the Ramata mountains of the eastern range, which are opposite Chamante. But a valley about a mile in breadth separates the two rivers and through this valley the Roussisi flows towards the lake. Note, after the patient investigation of the north end of the lake and satisfying ourselves by personal observation that the Roussisi ran into the lake, the native rumour which Sir Samuel Baker brought home that the Tanganyika and the Albert Nyanza have a water connection still finds many believers. End note, though Chamante terminates the western range, the eastern range continues for miles beyond northwesterly. After its issue from this broad gorge, the Roussisi runs seemingly in a broad and mighty stream through a wide alluvial plain, its own formation in a hundred channels until approaching the lake it flows into it by three channels only as above described. I should not omit the state here that though the doctor and I have had to contend against the strong current of the Roussisi River as it floats swift and strong into the Tanganyika, the doctor still adheres to the conviction that whatever part the Roussisi plays there must be an outlet to the Tanganyika somewhere from the fact that all freshwater lakes have outlets. The doctor is able to state his opinions and reasons far better than I can find for him and lest I misconstrue the subject I shall leave it until he has an opportunity to explain them himself, which his great knowledge of Africa will enable him to do with advantage. One thing is evident to me, and I believe to the doctor, that Sir Samuel Baker will have to curtail the Albert and Janza by one if not two degrees of latitude. That well-known traveler has drawn his lake far into the territory of the Varundi while Rwanda has been placed on the eastern side whereas a large portion of it, if not all, should be placed north of what he has designated on his map as Usigi. The information of such an intelligent man as Ruhinga is not to be despised, for if Lake Albert came within 100 miles of the Tanganyika, he would surely have heard of its existence even if he had not seen it himself. Originally he came from Mutubi and he has traveled from that country into Mugihewa, the district he now governs. He has seen Mwezi, the great king of Urundi and describes him as a man about 40 years old and as a very good man. Our work was now done. There was nothing more to detain us at Mugihewa. Ruhinga had been exceedingly kind and given us one ox after another to butcher and eat. Makamba had done the same. The woman had supplied us with an abundance of milk and butter and we had now bound to supplies of both. The doctor had taken a series of observations for latitude and longitude and Mugihewa was made out to be in three degrees 19 minutes south latitude. On the 7th December, early in the morning, we left Mugihewa and rowing past the southern extremity of the Katangara Islands, we approached the highlands of Uashi near the boundary line between Makamba's country and Uvira. The boundary line is supposed to be a wide ravine in the depths of which is a grove of tall, beautiful and straight stemmed trees out of which the natives make their canoes. Passing Kenyama-Bangu River, which issues into the lake close to the market ground of Kirabula, the extreme point of Burton and Speck's explorations of the Tanganyika, we steered south along the western shore of the lake for half an hour longer to Kavimba where we halted to cook breakfast. The village where lived in Maruta, the king of Uvira, was in sight of our encampment and as we observed parties of men ascending and descending the mountains which much more often than we thought augured good to ourselves, we determined to continue on our course south. Besides, there was a party of this consulate-looking wajiji here who had been plundered only a few days before our arrival for attempting, as the Uvira believed, to evade the Honga payment. Such facts as these and our knowledge of the general state of insecurity in the country the resulting from the many wars in which the districts of the Tanganyika were engaged, determined us not to halt at Kavimba. We embarked quickly in our boat before the Uvira had collected themselves and headed south against the strong gale which came driving down on us from the southwest. After a hard pull of about two hours in the teeth of the storm which was rapidly rising we pointed the head of the boat into a little quiet cove, almost hidden in tall reeds and disembarked for the night. Cognizant of the dangers which surrounded us knowing that savage and implacable man was the worst enemy we had to fear we employed our utmost energies in the construction of a stout fence of thorn bushes and then sat down to supper after our work was done and turned into sleep but not before we had posted watchmen to guard our canoe lest the daring thieves of Uvira might abstract it in which case we should have been in a pretty plight and in most unenviable distress. At daybreak, leaving Kukumba Point after our humble breakfast of coffee cheese and Dura cakes was dispatched we steered south once more. Our fires had attracted the notice of the sharp-eyed and suspicious fishermen of Kukumba but our precautions and the vigilant watch we had set before retiring had proved an effectual safeguard against the Kvira thieves. The western shores of the lake as we proceeded were loftier and more bold than the wooded heights of Urundi and the bearded knolls of Ujiji. A black ridge, the vanguard of the mountains which rise beyond disclosed itself between the serrated tops of the front line of the mountains which rose to a height of from 2,500 to 3,000 feet above the lake. Within the folds of the front line of mountains rise isolated hills of considerable magnitude, precipitous and abrupt, but scenically very picturesque. The greater part of these hills have the rounded and smooth top or are tabularly summited. The ridge unfolding these hills shoots out at intervals, prominatorial projections of gradual sloping outlines which on the map I have designated capes or points. When rounding these points up went our compasses for the taking of bearings and observing the directions of all prominent objects of interest. Often these capes are formed by the alluvial plains through which we may be sure a river will be found flowing. These pretty alluvial plains and folded on the south, the west and the north by a grand mountain arc presented the most luxurious and enchanting scenery. The vegetation seems to be of spontaneous growth. Groups of the Laos-Guininsis palm and bowering some Dunn-Brown village and array of majestic superb growth of Mvuli trees a broad extent covered with vivid, green sorghum stalks, parachute-like tops of mimosa, the line of white sand on which native canoes are drawn far above the reach of the plagiant uneasy surf. Fishermen idly reeling in the shade of the tree. These are the scenes which reveal themselves to us as we voyage in our canoes on the Tanganica. When weary with the romance of wild tropic scenes such as these, we have but to lift our eyes to the great mountaintops looming darkly and grandly on our right to watch the light penciling of the cirrus brushing their summits as it drifted toward the north by the rising wind, to watch the changing forms which the clouds assumed from the fleecy horizontal bars of cirrus to the denser, gloomier cumulus prognosticator of storm and rain which soon settles into a portentous group, alps above alps, one above the other, and we know the storm which was brewing is at hand and that it is time to seek shelter. Passingly quamba we saw several groves of the tall Mvuli tree as far as Bembe and Bembe occupy the mountain summits while the Wavira cultivate the alluvial plains along the base and lower slopes of the mountains. At Bembe we halted the taken pieces of pipe plate in accordance with the superstition of the Wajiji who thought a certain of safe passage and good fortune if we complied with the ancient custom. Passing in Guvi we came to a deep bend which curved off to Cape Kaboggi at the distance of 10 miles. About two thirds of the way we arrived at a group of islets, three in number, all very steep and rocky, the largest about 300 feet in length at the base and about 200 feet in breadth. Here we made preparations to halt for the night. The inhabitants of the islands were gorgeously feathered old caulk which was kept as a propitiatory offering to the spirit of the island. A sickly yellow-looking thrush, a hammer-headed stork and two fish hawks who finding we had taken possession of what had been religiously reserved for them took flight to the most western island where from their purchase they continued to eye us most solemnly. As these islands were with difficulty pronounced by us as Kuvanya V, the doctor, seeing that they were the only objects we were likely to discover, named them the New York Herald Islets and in confirmation of the new designation given them shook hands with me upon it, careful dead reckoning settled them to be in latitude three degrees, 41 minutes south. The summit of the largest island was well adapted to take bearings and we improved the opportunity as most extensive views of the broad and lengthy lake and surrounding lines of imposing mountains were attainable. The Ramata hills were clearly visible and bore north-north-east from it. Kataganga Cape, south-east by south. Sintakeyi, east-south-east. Magala, east-by-north. Southwestern Point of Musumi bore south. Northern Point of Musumi Island, south-south-east. At dawn on the 9th December we prepared to resume our voyage. Once or twice in the night we had been visited by fishermen, but our anxious watchfulness prevented any marauding. It seemed to me, however, that the people of the opposite shore who were our visitors were eagerly watching any opportunity to pounce on our canoe or take us boldly for a prey, and our men were considerably affected by these thoughts, if we may judge from the hearty goodwill with which they rode away from our late encampment. Arriving at Cape Kaboggi, we came to the territory of the Wasansi. We knew we were abreast of a different tribe by the greeting Moholo, which a group of fishermen gave us, as that of the Waviro was wake, like that of Urundi, Usige, and Uha. We soon sided Cape Luvumba, a sloping projection of a mountain ridge which shot far into the lake. As the storm was brewing we steered for a snug little cove that appeared before our village, and drawing our canoe from the water began to set the tent and make other preparations for passing the night. As the natives appeared quiet and civil enough we saw no reason to suspect that they entertained any hostility to Arabs and Wawanga. Accordingly we had our breakfast cooked and as usual laid down for an afternoon nap. I soon fell asleep and was dreaming away in my tent in happy oblivion of the strife and contention that had risen since I had gone to sleep when I heard a voice hailing me with, "'Master, master, get up, quick. Here is a fight going to begin.' I sprang up and snatching my revolver belt from the gun stand walked outside. Surely there appeared to be considerable amious between the several factions, between a noisy, vindictive-looking set of natives of the one part and our people of the other part. Seven or eight of our people had taken refuge behind the canoe and had their loaded guns half pointing at the passionate mob which was momentarily increasing in numbers. But I could not see the doctor anywhere. "'Where is the doctor?' I asked. "'He has gone over the hill, sir, with his compass,' said Selim. "'Anybody with him?' Susi and Chuma. "'You, Bombay, send two men off to warn the doctor and tell him to hurry up here.' But just at this period the doctor and his two men appeared on the brow of the hill, looking down in a most complacent manner upon the cereal-comic scene that the little basin wherein we were encamped presented. For, indeed, despite the serious aspect of it, there was much that was comical blended with it in a naked young man who, perfectly drunk, barely able to stand on his feet, was beating the ground with his only loincloth, screaming and storming away like a madman, declaring by this and by that in his own choice language that no Mughwana or Arab should halt one moment on the sacred soil of Usansi. His father, the Sultan, was as inebriated as himself, though not quite so violent in his behavior. In the meantime the doctor arrived upon the scene and Selim had slipped by Winchester rifle with the magazine full of cartridges into my hand. The doctor calmly asked what was the matter and was answered by the Wajiji Guides that the people wished us to leave as they were on hostile terms with the Arabs because the eldest son of the Sultan of Muzumi, the large island nearly opposite, had been beaten to death by a Baluch, named Khamis, Ad Wajiji, because the young fellow had dared to look into his harem and ever since peace had been broken between the Usansi and Arabs. After consulting with the Guides, the doctor and I came to the conclusion that it were better that we should endeavor to pacify the Sultan by a present rather than to take offense at a drunken boy's extravagant freak. In his insane fury he had attempted to slash at one of my men with a billhook he carried. This had been taken as a declaration of hostilities and the soldiers were ready enough to engage in war, but there was no necessity to commence fighting with a drunken mob who could have been cleared off the ground with our revolvers alone had we desired it. The doctor, bearing his arm, said to them that he was not Mugwana or an Arab, but a white man. That Arabs and Waghwana had no such color as we had. We were white men, different people altogether from those whom they were accustomed to see that no black men had ever suffered injury from white men. This seemed to produce great effect for after little gentle persuasion, the drunken youth with his no less inebriate sire were induced to sit down and talk quietly. They frequently referred to Mambo, the son of Kasisa, Sultan of Mazumi, who was brutally murdered. Yes, brutally murdered, they exclaimed several times in their own tongue, illustrating by a faithful pantomime how the unfortunate youth had died. Livingston continued talking with them in a mild paternal way, and the loud protestations against Arab cruelty were about to subside when the old Sultan suddenly rose up and began to pace about in an excited manner, and in one of his preambulations deliberately slashed his leg with the sharp blade of his spears, and then exclaimed that the Waghwana had wounded him. At this cry, one half of the mob hastily took to flight, but one old woman who cared a strong staff with a carved lizard's body on its top commenced to abuse the chief with all the power of her voluble tongue, charging him with the desire to have them all killed, and another woman joined in with her in advising him to be quiet and accept the present we were willing to give. But it is evident that there was little need to cause all men present in that little hollow to begin a most sanguinary strife. The gentle patient bearing of the doctor had more effect than anything else in making all forbear bloodshed while there was left the least chance of an amicable settlement, and in the end it prevailed. The Sultan and his son were both sent on their way rejoicing. While the doctor conversed with them and endeavored to calm their fierce passions, I had the tent struck and the canoes launched, and the baggage stowed, and when the negotiations had concluded amicably, I begged the doctor to jump into the boat, as this apparent peace was simply a lull before a storm. Besides, said I, there are two or three cowardly creatures in the boat who, in case of another disturbance, would not scruple to leave both of us here. From Cape Lumbamba, about 4.30 p.m., we commenced pulling across. At 8 p.m., we were abreast of Cape Pansa, the northern extremity of the island of Muzimu. At 6 a.m., we were southward of Bikari and pulling for Mukungu in Urundi, at which place we arrived at 10 a.m. Having been 17 hours and a half in crossing the lake, which, computing at two miles an hour, may be said to be 35 miles direct breadth and a little more than 43 miles from Cape Lumbamba. On the 11th of December, after seven hours pulling, we arrived at the picturesque Zasi again. On the 12th, at the pretty Cape of Nisanga, and at 11 a.m., we had rounded past Bangui and Ujiji was before us. We entered the port very quietly, without usual firing of guns, as we were short of powder and ball. As we landed, our soldiers and the Arab magnates came to the water's edge to greet us. Mabruki had a rich budget to relate to us of what had occurred during our absence. This faithful man, left behind in charge of Livingston's house, had done most excellently. Kalulu had scalded himself and had a frightful raw sore on his chest in consequence. Mabruki had locked up Marora in chains for wounding one of the asses. Balali, the stuttering coward, a bully of women, had caused a tumult in the marketplace and had been sharply belabored with the stick by Mabruki. And, above all, most welcome was a letter I received from the American Council of Zanzibar, dated June 11th, containing telegrams from Paris as late as April 22nd of the same year. Poor Livingston exclaimed, and I have none. What a pleasant thing it is to have a real and good friend. Our voyage on the Tanganyika had lasted 28 days, during which time we had traversed over 300 miles of water. End of Chapter 13 Part 3 Chapter 14, Part 1 of How I Found Livingston This is a LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. How I Found Livingston Travels, Adventures, and Discoveries in Central Africa, including four months' residence with Dr. Livingston by Sir Henry M. Stanley Chapter 14 Part 1 Our Journey from Yujiji to Yuanyanyanbei We felt quite at home when we sat down on our black bearskin, gay Persian carpet and clean new mats, to rest with our backs to the wall, sipping our tea with the air of comfortable men, and chat over the incidents of the picnic as Livingston persisted in calling our journey to the Roussisi. It seemed as if old times, which we loved to recall, had come back again, though our house was humble enough in its aspect, and our servants were only naked barbarians. But it was near this house that I had met him, Livingston, after that eventful march from Yuanyanyanbei. It was on this same veranda that I listened to that wonderful story of his about those far enchanting regions west of the lake Tenganyika. It was in this same spot that I first became acquainted with him, and ever since my admiration has been growing for him, and I feel elated when he informs me that he must go to Yuanyanyanbei under my escort and at my expense. The old mud walls and the bare rafters and the ancient thatched roof and this queer-looking old veranda will have an historical interest for me while I live, and so while I can I have taken pains and immortalized the humble old building by a sketch. I have just said that my admiration for Livingston has been growing. This is true. The man that I was about to interview so calmly and complacently, as I would interview any prominent man with the view of specially delineating his nature, or detailing his opinions, has conquered me. I had intended to interview him, report in detail what he said, picture his life and his figure, then bow him in my au revoir and march back. But he was specially disagreeable and brisk in his manner, which would make me quarrel with him immediately, was firmly fixed in my mind. But Livingston, true noble Christian, generous-hearted, frank man, acted like a hero, invited me to his house, said he was glad to see me, and got well on purpose to prove the truth of his statement, you have brought new life unto me, and when I fell sick with the remittant fever, hovering between life and death, he attended me like a father, and we have now been together for more than a month. Can you wonder, then, that I like this man, whose face is the reflex of his nature, whose heart is essentially all goodness, whose aims are so high, that I break out impetuously sometimes, but your family, doctor, they would like to see you, oh, so much! Let me tempt you to come home with me, I promise to carry you every foot of the way to the coast. You shall have the finest donkey to ride that is in Unyan Yembe. Your wants you have but to hint them, and they shall be satisfied. Let the sources of the Nile go. Do you come home and rest, then, after a year's rest and restored health, you can return and finish what you have to do. But ever the answer was, no, I should like to see my family very much indeed. My children's letters affect me intensely, but I must not go home. I must finish my task. It is only the want of supplies that has detained me. I should have finished the discovery of the Nile by this, by tracing to its connection with either Baker's Lake or Peatherick's branch of the Nile. If I had only gone one month further, I could have said the work is done. Some of these men who had turned the doctor back from his interesting discoveries were yet in Ujiji, and had the government enfilled rifles in their hands which they intended to retain until their wages had been paid to them. But as they had received sixty dollars advance each at Zanzibar from the English consul, with the understanding entered into by contract that they should follow their master wherever he required them to go, and, as they had not only gone where they were required to proceed with him, but had baffled and thwarted him, it was preposterous that a few men should triumph over the doctor, by keeping the arms given to him by the Bombay government. I listened to the Arab shakes, friends of the doctor, advising them in mild tones to give them up. I had witnessed the mutineer stubbornness, and it was then on the burzani of Saeed bin Majid's house that I took advantage to open my mind on the subject, not only for the benefit of the stubborn slaves, but also for the benefit of the Arabs, and to tell them that it was well that I had found Livingston alive, for if they had but injured a hair of its head I should have gone back to the coast, to return with a party which would enable me to avenge him. I had been waiting to see Livingston's guns return to him every day, hoping that I should not have to use force, but when a month or more had elapsed, and still the arms had not been returned, I applied for permission to take them, which was granted. Susie, the gallant servant of Dr. Livingston, was immediately dispatched with about a dozen armed men to recover them, and in a few minutes we had possession of them without further trouble. The doctor had resolved to accompany me to Unyan Yembe in order to meet his stores, which had been forwarded from Zanzibar, November 1st, 1870. As I had charge of the escort it was my duty to study well the several routes to Unyan Yembe from Ujiji. I was sufficiently aware of the difficulties and the responsibilities attached to me while escorting such a man. Since my own personal feelings were involved in the case. If Livingston came to any harm through any indiscretion of mine while he was with me, it would immediately be said, ah, had he not accompanied Stanley, he would have been alive now. I took out my chart, the one I had made myself, in which I had perfect faith, and I sketched out a route which would enable us to reach Unyan Yembe without paying a single cloth as tribute, and without encountering any worse thing than a jungle, by which we could avoid all the Wavinza and the plundering Waha. This peaceable, secure route led by water south along the coast of Yucaranga and Yucawendi to Cape Tangua. Arriving at Cape Tangua I should be opposite the village of Itaga, Sultan Imreira, in the district of Rusawa of Yucawendi, after which we should strike my old road, which I had traversed from Unyan Yembe when bound for Yujiji. I explained it to the doctor, and he instantly recognized its feasibility and security, and if I struck Imreira, as I proposed to do, it would demonstrate whether my chart was correct or not. We arrived at Yujiji from our tour of Discovery, north of the Tanganyika, December 13th, and from this date the doctor commenced writing his letters to his numerous friends, and a copy into his mammoth let's diary from his field books the valuable information he had acquired during his years of travel south and west of the Tanganyika. I sketched him while sitting in his shirt-sleeves in the veranda with his let's diary on his knee, and the likeness on the front's piece is an admirable portrait of him, because the artist who has assisted me has, with an intuitive eye, seen the defects in my own sketch, and by this I am unable to restore him to the reader's view exactly as I saw him, as he pondered on what he had witnessed during his long marches. Soon after my arrival at Yujiji he had rushed to his paper, and indebted a letter to James Gordon Bennett, Esquire, wherein he recorded his thanks, and after he had finished it I asked him to add the word junior to it, as it was young Mr. Bennett to whom he was indebted. I thought the letter admirable, and requested the doctor not to add another word to it. The feelings of his heart had found expression in the grateful words he had written, and if I judged Mr. Bennett rightly I knew he would be satisfied with it, for it was not the geographical news he cared so much about as the grand fact of Livingstons being alive or dead. In this latter part of December he was writing letters to his children, Sir Roderick Murchison, and to Lord Granville. He had intended to have written to the Earl of Clarendon, but it was my sad task to inform him of the death of that distinguished nobleman. In the meantime I was preparing the expedition for its return march to Unyanyembe, apportioning the bails and luggage, the doctor's large ten boxes, and my own among my men, for I had resolved upon permitting the doctor's men to march as passengers, because they had so nobly performed their duty to their master. Said Ben Majid had left December 12 for Mirambo's country, so to give the Black Bonaparte battle for the murder of his son Saoud in the forest of Will-Yancura, and he had taken with him three hundred stout fellows armed with guns from Yujiji. The stout-hearted old chief was burning with rage and resentment, and a fine warlock figure he made with his seven-foot gun. Before we departed for the Ruzizi I had wished him bon voyage, and expressed a hope that he would rid the Central African world of the tyrant Mirambo. On the twentieth of December the rainy season was ushered in with heavy rain, thunder, lightning, and hail, the thermometer falling to sixty-six degrees Fahrenheit. The evening of this day I was attacked with Yurtikaria, or nettle-rash, for the third time since arriving in Africa, and I suffered a woeful sickness, and it was the forerunner of an attack of remitten fever which lasted four days. This is the malignant type which has proved so fatal to so many African travelers on the Zambezi, the White Nile, the Congo, and the Niger. The head-throbs, the pulses bound, the heart struggles painfully, while the sufferer's thoughts are in a strange world, such as only a sick man's fancy can create. This was the fourth attack of the fever since the day I met Livingston. The excitement of the march, and the high hope which my mind constantly nourished, had kept my body almost invincible against an attack of fever while advancing towards Yujiji. But two weeks after the great event had transpired my energies were relaxed. My mind was perfectly tranquil, and I became a victim. Christmas came, and the doctor and I had resolved upon the blessed and time-oddered day being kept as we keep it in Anglo-Saxon lands, with a feast such as Yujiji could furnish us. The fever had quite gone for me the night before, and on Christmas morning, though exceedingly weak, I was up and dressed, and lecturing for Raji, the cook, upon the importance of this day to white men, and endeavouring to instill into the mind of the sleek and pampered animal some cunning secrets of the culinary art. Fat broad-tailed sheep, goats, zaga and pambé, eggs, fresh milk, plantains, singua, fine corn-flower, fish, onions, sweet potatoes, etc., were procured in the Yujiji market, and from good old Maoni Kerry. But alas, for my weakness, Faraji spoiled the roast and our custard was burned, the dinner was a failure. That the fat-brained rascal escaped a thrashing was due only to my inability to lift my hands for punishment, but my looks were dreadful and alarming, and capable of annihilating any one except Faraji. The stupid, hard-headed cook only chuckled, and I believe he had the subsequent gratification of eating the pies, custards, and roast that his carelessness had spoiled for European palates. Saeed bin Majeed, previous to his departure, had left orders that we should be permitted to use his canoe for our homeward trip, and Maoni Kerry kindly lent his huge vessel for the same purpose. The expedition, now augmented by the doctor and his five servants, and their luggage, necessitated the employment of another canoe. We had our flocks of milch-goats and provision of fat sheep for the jungle of Yuccawende, the transit of which I was about to attempt. Good Halima, Livingston's cook, had made ready a sackful of fine flour, such as she only could prepare in her fond devotion for her master. Hamoida, her husband, had also freely given his assistance and attention to this important article of food. I purchased a donkey for the doctor, the only one available in Yujiji, lest the doctor might happen to suffer on the long march from his ancient enemy. In short, we were luxuriously furnished with food, sheep, goats, cheese, cloth, donkeys, and canoes, sufficient to convey us a long distance. We needed nothing more. The twenty-seventh of December has arrived. It is the day of our departure from Yujiji. I was probably about to give an eternal farewell to the port whose name will forever be sacred in my memory. The canoes, great lumbering hollow trees, are laden with good things. The rowers are in their places, the flag of England is hoisted at the stern of the doctor's canoe, the flag of America waves and rustles joyously above mine, and I cannot look at them without feeling a certain pride that the two Anglo-Saxon nations are represented this day on this great inland sea, in the face of wild nature and barbarism. We are escorted to our boats by the great Arab merchants, by the admiring children of Unyamwezi, by the freemen of Zanzibar, by Wondering Wahuga and Wajiji, by fierce Wurrinda, which are in this day quiet, even sorrowful, that the white men are going, whither they all ask. At eight a.m. we start, freely distributing our farewells as the Arabs and Quidnunks wave their hands. On the part of one or two of them there was an attempt to say something sentimental and affecting, especially by the convicted sinner Mohammed bin Salih. But though outwardly I manifested no disapprobation of his words, or of the emphatic way in which he shook my hand, I was not sorry to see the last of him, after his treachery to Livingston in eighteen sixty-nine. I was earnestly requesting to convey to Unyanyembe, mengi salams, to everybody, but had I done so, as he evidently desired me to do, I would not have been surprised at being regarded by all as hopelessly imbecile. We pushed off from the claye bank at the foot of the marketplace, unencumbered with luggage, under the leadership of gigantic Asmani and Bombay, commenced their journey southward along the shores of the lake. We had arranged to meet them at the mouth of every river to transport them across from bank to bank. The doctor, being in Said bin Majeed's boat, which was a third or so shorter than the one under my command, took the lead, with the British flag held aloft by a bamboo, streaming behind like a crimson meteor. My boat, manned by Wajiji sailors, whom we had engaged to take the canoes back from Tongua Cape to Ujiji Bunder, came a stern and had a much taller flagstaff on which was hoisted the ever-beautiful stars and stripes. This extreme height drew from the doctor, whose patriotism and loyalty had been excited, the remark that he would cut down the tallest palmyra for his flagstaff, as it was not fitting that the British flag should be so much lower than that of the United States. Our soldiers were not a whit behind us in light-heartedness at the thought of going to Unyanyembe. They struck up the exhilarating song of the Zanzibar boatman, with the ecstatic chorus, kinan derere kitunga, rowing away like madmen until they were compelled to rest from sheer exhaustion while the perspiration exuded from the pours of their bodies and streams. When refreshed they bent back to their oars, raising the song of the Mrema, O mama, Redemikai, which soon impelled them to an extravagant effort again. It was by this series of ferocious spurts, racing, shouting, singing, perspiring, laughing, groaning, and puffing that our people vented their joyous feelings, as the thought filled their minds that we were homeward bound, and that by the route I had adopted between us and Unyanyembe there was not the least danger. We have given the waha the slip, ha-ha, though a vinza will trouble us no more, ho-ho. The meon vu can get no more cloth from us, high by, and kyala will see us no more, never more, he he. They shouted with wild bursts of laughter, seconded by tremendous and rapid strokes with their oars, which caused the stiff old canoes to quiver from stem to stern. Our party ashore seemed to partake of our excitement, and joined in the wild refrain of the mad African song. We watched them urging their steps forward to keep pace with us, as we rounded the capes and points, and rode across the bays whose margins were sedge and rush and weed. The tiny and agile Kalulu, little Balali and Majwara were seen racing the herds of goats, sheep, and donkeys which belonged to the caravan, and the animals even seemed to share the general joy. Nature also, proud, wild nature, with the lofty azure dome upheaved into infinity, with her breath and depth of vivid greenness and enormous vastness on our left, with her immense sheet of bright, glancing water, with her awful and intense serenity she per- took of and added to our joy. At about ten a.m. we arrived at Carindos, an old chief noted for his singular kindness to Dr. Livingston, while he bore animosity to the Arabs. To the Arabs this was unaccountable. To the doctor it was plain. He had but spoken kind and sincere words, while all the Arabs spoke to him as if he were not even a man, least of all a chief. Carindos' place is at the mouth of Luichi, which is very wide. The river oozes out through a forest of Ishanomene, Pith Tree. This was a rendezvous agreed upon between shore and lake parties, that the canoes might all cross to the other side, distant a mile and a half. The mouth of the Luichi forms the bay of Yucaranga, so named because on the other side, whether we were about to cross our party, was situated the village of Yucaranga, a few hundred yards from the lake. All the baggage was taken out of the largest canoe, and stowed snugly in the smaller one, and a few select oarsmen having taken seats, pushed off with the doctor on board, who was to superintend pitching the encampment at Yucaranga, while I remained behind to bind the fractious and ill-natured donkeys, and stow them away in the bottom of the larger canoe, that no danger of upsetting may be incurred, and a consequent gobbling up by hungry crocodiles which were all about us waiting their opportunity. The flock of goats were then embarked, and as many of our people as could be got in. About thirty still remained behind with myself, for whom my canoe was to return. We all arrived safe at Yucaranga, though we got dangerously near a herd of hippopotami. The crossing of the wide mouth, the Luichi, being then in flood, was affected in about four hours. The next day, in the same order as on our departure from Ujiji, we pursued our way south, the lake party keeping as close as possible to the shore, yet when feasible, wind and weather permitting, we struck off boldly across the numerous small bays which indent the shores of the Tanganyika. The shores were beautifully green, the effect of the late rains, the waters of the lake were a faithful reflex of the blue firmament above. The hippopotami were plentiful. Those noticed on this day were colored with reddish rings round the base of their ears and on the neck. One monster, coming up rather late, was surprised by the canoe making full foreign, and in great fright took a tremendous dive which showed the whole length of his body. Halfway between the mouth of the Malaga Razi and that of the Luichi, we saw a camp on shore, that of Muhammad bin Gareeb, a Maswahili, who figured often in Livingston's verbal narrative to me of his adventures and travels as one of the kindest and best of the Muslims in Central Africa. He appeared to me a kindly disposed man, with a face seldom seen, having the stamp of an unusual characteristic on it, that of sincerity. The vegetation of the shores, as we proceeded, was truly tropical. Each curve revealed new beauties. With the soft, chalky stone, of which most of the cliffs and bluffs are made, seen as we neared the mouth of the Malaga Razi, the surf has played strange freaks. We arrived at the mouth of the Malaga Razi about five p.m., having rode eighteen miles from Yucaranga. The shore party arrived, very much fatigued, about five p.m. The next day was employed in crossing the caravan across the broad mouth of the Malaga Razi to our camp, a couple of miles north of the river. This is a river which a civilized community would find of immense advantage for shortening the distance between the Tanganika and the coast. Only one hundred miles might be performed by this river, which is deep enough at all seasons to allow navigation, as far as Kiala, in Yvenza, whence a straight road might be easily made to Unyanyembe. Missionaries also might reap the same benefit from it for conversion tours to Yvenza, Uha, and Yugala. Pursuing our way on the thirtieth, and rounding the picturesque capes of Kagongo, Muviga, and Kavo, we came, after about three hours rowing, inside of villages at the mouth of the swift and turbid Rugofu. Here we again had to transport the caravan over the crocodile-infested mouth of the river. On the morning of the thirty-first we sent a canoe with men to search for food in two or three villages that were visible on the other side. Four Doty purchased just sufficient for four days for our caravan of forty-eight persons. We then got under way, having informed the Kirungozi that Yurimba was our destination, and bidding him keep as closely as possible to the lakeshore, where it was practicable, but if not to make the best he could of it. From the debushmat of the Rugofu, the headwaters of which we had crossed on our random route to Yurimba, a distance of six days by water there are no villages, and consequently no food. The shore-party, however, before leaving Yurimba, had eight days rations, and on this morning four days distributed to each person, and therefore was in no danger of starvation should the mountain headlands, now unfolding, abrupt and steep, one after another, prevent them from communicating with us. It must be understood that such a journey as this had never been attempted before by any Arab or Muswahili, and every step taken was in sheer ignorance of where the road would lead the men ashore. During Kivo's steep promontory, whose bearded ridge and rugged slope wooded down to the water's edge, whose exquisite coves and quiet recesses might well have evoked a poetical effusion to one so inclined, we dared the chopping waves of Kivo's bay, and stood direct for the next cape, Mizohazy, behind which, owing to wind and wave, we were compelled to halt for the night.