 Welcome to the show. It's me, John Park. We are here for John Park's workshop. If that's not where you intended to be, then you got on the wrong flight. And I apologize for that. But we have a fun show in store. And by we, I mean me and Lars back there maybe. Cool project build I'm gonna be doing today. I also have a pretty nifty Circuit Python parsec to show. I'm glad to see foamy guys in the chat because this pertains to Tim. Mr. Foamy, the foamy-est of foamy guys. What else have we got going on? I'm gonna show a little recap of a product pick of the week from earlier this week. If you're wondering who I'm talking to, well, I'm talking to all of the viewers, but also our Discord chat. And I can also keep an eye over on YouTube. But if you're in Twitch or Facebook or another place and you're wondering where the chat is, you might wanna check out either the YouTube chat or our Discord, which is at adafruit.it slash Discord. And you can head over to the live broadcast chat channel. That is where it's happening. Let's see, what else? I've got some delicious iced coffee. I also have some water. It's hot here today. And hello to Jim Hendrickson and Andy Callaway. Okay, you're on Steve, Paul Cutler. I'm Steve Grover. I see you all rich, sad over in our chat. Gary T. over in YouTube. Franklin, hello, and thanks for stopping by. Let's see, what have we got? What's happening first? I should mention we have our jobs board over at jobs.adafruit.com. You can go check that out. If you are looking for work, if you're looking to hire someone, wow, that window's super big. Let me make that a little slightly smaller. There we go. That's jobsadafruit.com. If you sign in, just log in with your Adafruit login. You can go over to the available for hire section. Look at resumes, people who are looking to get hired. Also add yours to that. If you wanna throw your info up there or post a job, if you're looking to hire someone, it's all entirely free. So it's a really good place to find people or be found for maker, hacker, engineer types of jobs. And that can be anything from contract positions, full-time, part-time, remote, onsite, and everything in between. So that's at jobsadafruit.com. Go check it out. Let's see. I mentioned, hi, Mike P. I mentioned, hey, Todd Bot, who says hello to everyone, but John Park. My gosh, that's pointed. I bet you feel bad now. Oh, and hello to Justin Park. He's covering all bases. Thanks, Todd Bot. Well, this right here, this little logo, this is, let me make it this big logo right here, that, that's JP's product pick of the week. I've made it bigger than it really wants to be. Sorry, logo. That happens on Tuesdays at this same time. So one o'clock Eastern time on Tuesdays. Every week I show a new product pick or a product from our archive, our vast archive of products that are up in the Adafruit store. Do a little bit of a demo. Go over some of the specifications and you got a big humongous discount during the show. There's no coupon code or anything like that. This show, or that show rather, is broadcast from inside the product page. And I do a little bit of a recap and you can check that out right now. It is the right angle Luxe Sensor, Vemmel 7700 with Stema QT. This one has the sensor mounted parallel to the board instead of perpendicular to the board, which means you can fit this in some tiny little areas. Since this is mounted at this angle, I should be able to stick this inside of my little box here and you'll notice it's just peeking out right there. You can disable that LED by the way. So it's just peeking out there and we're getting just from my ambient lighting in the room about 35 Luxe. And as I put my hand over that, it gets pretty dark down to one. So you could use this for detecting objects, particularly for things like security things, puzzles, escape room stuff. I always like things like that. Magic tricks. If you want to have it mounted fairly discreetly. The right angle Luxe Sensor with Stema QT. Yes, that was it. That was product pick of the week. So tune in again next week for something new. In fact, we have a double pick next week. Two sort of variations on one product are gonna be both available. Two different PIDs, product IDs that will get the treatment there. So tune in next Tuesday for that. Next up, let's do a circuit Python Parsec. How about, let me get all set up for that. Here we go. Let's circuit Python Parsec. All right, getting set up here. What I wanted to do on the circuit Python Parsec today is start to introduce Vector IO. Vector IO is a lightweight 2D shape generation library that works side-by-side with display IO. Now we can already create shapes using display IO but these are designed to run faster, take up less memory and they also are a little more efficient in that in the case of this circle, it really only refreshes the pixels where the circle are rather than a sort of rectangular bitmap of where the circle exists. This is brand spanking new stuff. If you've been tuning in to FOMI guy's Deep Dives with Tim, he has been working on these as well as some interesting helpers that are on the way or in progress. But for this basic example, what I wanted to show is how you do it. So I'm importing here the display IO library and then Vector IO. I then set up the display and I'm setting up a couple of pallets and this is actually in a state of flux right now. So we'll be able to do this differently pretty soon. But right now I'm setting up two pallets because I want to use two different colors. And then I'm setting up some coordinate space here using the screens width and height and I'm using that initially to set this circle halfway across and a quarter of the way down the screen. Now I'm setting up a variable called ball rad that's the ball radius. Right now it's set to 13. How about we update this? I'll make this a radius of 20. And then here's how I create it. Right now we have sort of three things we can use inside of Vector IO. We have the circle with a rectangle and we have a polygon. Today I'm just gonna look at circle and rectangle. So for creating the circle I do Vector IO.circle and then I tell it which color to use from this pallet, the radius and then an X and a Y position. Then I'm doing a similar thing to create a paddle as if we're doing a little breakout type of game. And that's a rectangle again with a color, a width, a height and an X and a Y position. So I'm driving those from the positions of the ball. Then if I append those to the main group of display IO and hit save here, it's gonna refresh and in a second it's gonna redraw and now it's gonna have this new larger radius. Now to show that these actually run pretty nice and fast what I'll do is update my code here so that I am using a little bit of code that Todd bought provided and this is a sort of bouncing, a little bouncing ball algorithm that reverses or inverses the X and Y position whenever we reach one of the extents of the screen or the top of the paddle in this case. So you can see it's running really nice and fast. I'm getting a little bit of a shearing effect so what I'm gonna do is I'm just gonna make the ball a little smaller right now and this'll give it a little better chance of running quickly and without any kind of shearing that you'll be able to discern. Actually any shearing you're seeing is gonna be based on the broadcast and not the screen itself. So this is running right here on a Feather RP2040 and the TFT Feather Wing but this should run on most of our boards and displays including ones with built-in displays. Now this is just a really, really preliminary look at how to create a couple of the primitive objects and I'll be doing more with this in the coming weeks but that is the basics of how you can use VectorIO to create a circle and a rectangle inside of Circuit Python and that is your Circuit Python Parsec. Waw, waw, waw. Yes, Circuit Python. Just checking the chat here and yeah, there's a, see Grover says we need some donuts and arcs. That would be nice to get other primitive shapes and I was also talking with Tim about possibly adding transforms such as rotate and scale, which would be really helpful. In fact you may have seen, I was showing an example, I think I showed this other example. I'm gonna open this up real quick. Circus code three, sure. Let me open that up and resave that as code.py on the board here. This is one where I'm using some of the other features and I'll make a better demo for the basics of explaining these but things like those flags are, I've got those set up as polygons with three sets of points and I have the helper object that creates lines with varying thickness and I'm using that for the string and I'm also using the polygon object to create those little sort of trapezoids at the bottom that are like little bases. So the current method of creating those, if you take a look at my arrays of points for the flags for example, you can see here I've got flag one and then I have three points, X, Y and Z, three points and it fills the fourth edge for you but it creates the points and the edges and the shape. These are difficult right now to come up with those points unless you're using some graph paper I used another piece of graphic software to create triangles, duplicate them, rotate them where I wanted to make that arc and then I just transcribed the points or spat out the points from Rhino and Grasshopper. The idea would be it's kind of straightforward to make on a grid a sort of normally oriented triangle and then we'd like to use some pivot points and rotation calls to move those around the screen so that's some stuff that Tim has been working on and I think if you head over to the CircaPython Dev channel in our Discord you'll see some example, both graphics and code that Tim has been working on for those which is nice. Let's see. All right so that's the little extended version of what's going on there with our vector IO so very excited about that. Let's see what is up next. So I want to do a bit of a build today, a kit build and this is, you may have seen this on show and tell, the, I'm gonna bring up my, let's see. Oh by the way before I move off of that, here is the read the docs about vector IO and so if you want to get more info about that you can head to either the library in GitHub or into our read the docs and look it up and that tells you the basics of the circle, the rectangle, the polygon as well as setting it up with the pallets. So you may have seen this telephone ringer that Andrew of Make It Hackin has demonstrated on show and tell a couple of times and the issue here is that a telephone, a standard telephone, old fashioned standard telephone has a couple of big bells and some magnetic coils like solenoids that are used to move a clapper to ring those bells and the standard for that system is a pretty high voltage AC with a sine wave at 20 Hertz to ring a US phone. So that is the standard, it's anywhere from 60 to about 105 volts AC, 20 Hertz sine wave is what makes that clapper move back and forth. So this is not something that you can easily create just by hooking up a battery or the pin out on a microcontroller if you want to use the original hardware. And so in fact, if you look at the ringing telephony page on Wikipedia, it'll talk about those stats. It'll also go into a little bit of info about the ringing generators that exist at the telephone stations, substations, as well as magenta boxes that phone freaks came up with in the 70s and 80s to ring phones for fun and maybe for profit and doing bad things as well, phone freaks being phone freaks, as well as a really typical usage of a ring generator, which is theatrical production. So if it's something like a stage show or you're trying to ring a bell on a, when you're shooting a video, doing film or television, in order to ring a phone on command, you kind of need a box that does that. And if you look around, there are some commercial versions of these things that are really geared particularly towards theatrical stuff, to ring phones on stage at on command, maybe multiple phones, maybe different types of ringing, long ring, short ring, US ring, British ring. So there are different needs for ringing phones. And what make it hackin' has come up with is a circuit python and Arduino, or Arduino controllable circuit board that uses a feather to control a motor, motor driver through a voltage boost converter. And so this is the telephone ringer circuit board that make it hackin' sent me. And this is a revision 1.2. There was a 1.1 that had a little issue with lacking a ground, I think, for the feather. So he very kindly just sent me that one and I wanted to start putting this together today. If you, let's see, if you take a look here at this, this is the Tindy page for make it hackin', if you just Google make it hackin' and you'll find him on all the social media. He doesn't have it for sale quite yet. I think it's coming soon, but there are some other neat lookin' little DIY projects on there. But this is the GitHub page. So this is at github.com slash make it hackin' slash telephone ringer. This goes over the little bill of materials that we have as well as some schematics, some notes, and some code. So I have, all I've done really is soldered some header pins onto a feather and put the circuit python in the code and the libraries on there. The rest of it we're gonna go ahead and just build. So let's jump over here and get goin'. And what I'm gonna try to do is put my Discord page up on my iPad over here so that I can see what's goin' on in the chat as well as the sort of build guide for the ringer. So, let's go back to, here we go. Oh sorry, Leonlyt said thanks for making this broadcast early, but I have to go to sleep a little bit sooner or at the weekend, that won't be perfect. All right, goodbye. Thanks for stopping by at least briefly. And you can always catch this in Replay. We immediately archive our shows and then play them back later. Okay, so what I've got set up here, here's our sort of bill of materials. So I have a feather, I have our motor controller. This is the DRV8871, zoom in a little bit here and let me see if this light helps. This might be a little, you know, I'll save that for I'm soldering if we need it. So this is an H-bridge motor controller, so this can send essentially in two directions, the sine wave that we need to control the ringer. Normally this would be used to drive a motor forward or drive a DC motor backwards, but this is gonna be used to generate that sine wave that rings the bells. I have a little piece of RJ11 telephone cord here in case I need to test something, such as the pin out or the voltages that we're sending. And then the stuff that make it hack and sent. Hey, cool sticker, thanks for that. This is a DC step up that'll take our, I believe three-ish volts, 3.3 from the feather and bump that up to the 40 to 60, I think, that we need to make this work. We'll see, I think there's a trimmer pot on there to tune that a bit. And then here's all the rest of the parts. So we've got a nice little OLED screen for different modes. There's some buttons and switches for ringing and ringing in different modes and switching some modes on and off, as well as some little status LEDs and a few resistors and then the RJ11 jack to plug the phone in. So that's what we're starting with. And what I'm gonna do, so this can be run off of, I believe it can be run off of the USB on the feather or it can be run from a battery. So I've been charging, actually it looks like it's just finished charging, been charging up one of our little 400 milliamp hour batteries that fits nicely under a feather. And that's because this revision of, or actually both versions of the generator, yeah. Oh no, this revision, previous one didn't have that. This revision has a spot for a feather wing, in case you wanna do a side-by-side feather wing with who knows what. But to allow for that, I'm using one of our batteries that can fit under either the feather or the feather wing there. So what I'm gonna start with is I'm gonna solder in some short feather headers and I happen to have standard header pins on here. Let me zoom in a bit on the feathers. This won't go all the way flush, but it is enough space to fit that under there. And so, in fact, to make my life a little easier with soldering that, I'm gonna place the feather there. I'm gonna get a soldering iron up and running here. I got one of these little USB-C ones here with this. She'll read out, nice and fancy. And I also actually wanted to show a nice little life hack here. I have one of these little caddies for the soldering iron holder and a spool of solder. And I have this nice solder iron tip cleaner. I put a magnet inside the base and now it sticks to this nicely so it doesn't slide around when I'm wiping off the tip. So that's a little hack I just came up with. We'll see how that goes. So to start with what I'll do is get those headers in place. If anyone sees me doing something silly where you're like, wait, if you do that now you'll never finish this later. Tell me, because I haven't put this together before and I haven't thought it through too much. So it's always possible to put bigger parts in too soon and make your life difficult. So let's turn that little light on there. Okay. And let's get this started. I'll usually solder in the corner pins on these to get going. And then you can just double check that nothing is super wonky before you go soldering the rest of the pins in. So that looks good. My feather itself was in a little crooked, but it doesn't matter. The little feather headers are on there nicely. So I really love this design. It's a cool, sort of puts it all on one level, one layer. And since the feather is small, but super capable it gives us a lot of room to work with, which is great. So I will not take a pause to clean flux off or anything because I wanna try to make this build as quick as I can. If it seems like we're not gonna get it done effectively in time, I will finish the thing offline and show you the results next time. But my hope is, if I'm not being delusional, my hope is that we can get this built and test it all in one show. I have hastily just bridged some points there. There we go. That looks good. Okay. So there we go. That's our first step. And next thing we'll do is the driver controller, the motor driver controller. So this has header pins that connect it to the board and then it uses these little terminal blocks usually to connect things to them. It's not really necessary in this case, but it is the design, I think what Andrew has this set up as looking at the pictures is some small jumper wires running from the board up into those terminal blocks. I think you could also do it just with a straight wire shot down through there, but I'll do it this way because that does give us the opportunity to plug other stuff into that, at least for testing. Franklin asks if I'm using lead-free solder. I'm not actually, this is some leaded stuff. I think he has 60-40 leaded. I do have fresh air coming in from my AC. Sorry, I just realized this light is in the camera view, which isn't great. Let's take that like that. And I also have a small little fan drawing the solder fumes away. I will try not to lick my hands. I should probably not even drinking this. Let's see. Okay, so the first thing with the motor controller then is to connect the terminal out blocks and the header pins to that. So we'll start with these header pins. They are four of them and it came with a little strip of six. So I'm just gonna snap off those and that can go in like that. Again, you could use a header. Actually, I think I will. You can use a strip of headers to connect that to the board non-permanently. It keeps everything agile. So what I'll do is take some somewhat janky cutters. I've kind of dinged these up and I'll snip this right at the fifth position there and then just trim off the extra plastic. And now this will give me a little four pin. Oh, I didn't count right. Let's take one more off of there. So that'll give us a four position socket to mount like so and then we'll be able to place this in like this. So in a case like this, you can tape these down. You can use some blue tack. You can use rubber band. I like to often just hold it with my finger and then try to solder the first one in place with the solder like wrapped around a little holder. So let's, let's see, I'll use this one. So I'll take a, I have a magnetic base on this. Let me find something strong enough to hold it up. There we go. So I have a magnetic base and a little magnet holder and I'm just gonna hook my solder to that. Whoops. Everything falling over, stay. So now I can have a free hand to hold the board and the little header pin like that. It's under the camera a little more. Hey, Johnny Bergdahl, nice to see you. We are, if you're just joining us, putting together a telephone ring generator. This is a kit from Make It Hackin' that uses a feather. And there you go. In this case, I can just get the first one started on there and then I can get this out of the way. I'll just snap off some of that solder and leave it connected to the hobby hands holder there. So now I can place this back like so and solder the rest of that in place. By the way, if you're ever soldering stuff and you're wondering why one pin takes forever to heat up on your board, that's probably a ground plane. The ground plane will actually suck off a lot of heat. Okay, so now we have the socket in place for our motor driver and now I'm gonna take the motor driver pins, motor driver and solder those into place. Again, this is a case of a, yeah, I think that's as close as I can get with that. This is a case of you need more hands than you have to do this sort of thing unless you prop things up somehow. I'll look briefly and see. Yeah, if I jam this little, just a little wood block in here, I might get it to hold at level for a second. And now I can get at least one pin going. By the way, the reason I brought that up about ground pin, if I'm trying to get one sort of dicey solder joint started, I will pick something other than the ground pin because that one's just gonna take more time often to heat up and to cool down to set the solder. So that looks good and looks square enough. You could use the short feather header pins if you wanted to make this smaller. I often do with projects if I'm trying to make them compact. This one I don't think needs to be all that particularly compact so I'm using the standard size header pins. Yes, BlueTac, super helpful, absolutely right. Hi Liz, nice to see you. So I've never seen that technique for starting off a header, taking note. Yeah, share your techniques. Everyone comes up with ways to deal with these things. Okay, so it looks pretty good and now I can solder the terminal blocks into place. So these are gonna be up top. Not a bad idea by the way, before I did the show I did a little bit of a dry fit of things to try to predict any things that might be in the way of other things. I didn't do it too thoroughly but this RJ11 jack, that fits in wrong one. Oh, that's a vertical one. Does that one even go on here? That might be a bonus. Here's the one we need. So this will go on right here. And so I just kinda wanna make sure that one of those things isn't in the way of another but since this is on a removable header it's gonna be pretty straightforward to do it in any order. But here's the case, this header here is there anything there that needed to be soldered that's tricky, that's gonna be the boost converter which is gonna go there and that's just on four header pins we could again do some removable stuff. I might do that, it's not a secure, it's more secure to just saw our thing straight to the board so it's up to you if you wanna use sockets for everything. Okay, so that should work out fine there. I'm gonna turn down this AC speed of this fan. Yeah, that's fast, what about that, that's slow? Sorry about that, this is running colder than it needs to. Okay, so let's do these little terminal blocks. They're a great candidate for some blue tack. If I can find where I put my blue tack. I think I was running low. Yeah, I put it somewhere smart. Did I put it in a drawer over here? Is it in the one of my tape drawers? No, I have lost the blue tack or that's no good. So I'm gonna do something a lot of us probably do which is just the holding it with one finger, using your pinkies to hold this otter. I'm gonna hold it like this, bend that down there, try not to burn myself. This is a totally legit method, I promise. You do wanna be careful you're not touching the top of that terminal block because that will get hot. Okay, that's good enough to hold it and now I'm gonna get a yet another holdy thing. These are great, these are on a magnet and I have a steel part of my work bench there that I can connect to. You'll see that here. So I'm just gonna, I've got a little silicon rubber on the alligator clips there too so it doesn't mar things up. So sorry, that's not gonna be in super great focus but it'll be pretty quick just putting in terminal blocks and let's grab the other one, same sort of thing, holding the solder and holding the block from underneath. All right, so that's done. Okay, so this is gonna go in like that and then the two, you can see this down here below. I think, I gotta double check because I've got a spot of super glue, that's a good idea Franklin. I'm gonna check the build from make it hack into C. I don't think there's another, yeah, I don't think there's another terminal block. So this is just some wire running up from the PCB up to these here. And again, by putting it on a socket it makes it a little easier to solder some wires in of kind of the proper length. He's sent along a little piece of wire, might as well use that. Oh, that's the PDF, hold on, I wanna open the PNG file. Yeah, those are just wires running up from there. So what I'll do is I'll strip a little bit of wire. Oh, you know what, this is stranded. I think I'll use some solid core, that might be a little, although now that I say that, the stranded will probably work better in this terminal. All right, so we'll do that. So I will actually put one of these in, being careful not to let the strands separate and screw that into place. And then I'm just gonna determine how long to make that. So to about there, so let's snip like that. Now I'll take this off and I can cut some equal lengths of wire to that. And I think we just need three. There's a good picture, I can't quite tell from there. I can check the PDF, for some reason my iPad doesn't wanna open that PDF, so I will double check that. Might as well make four wires. I don't think that can hurt. Anyone wants to check that, GitHub, make it hack and telephone generator? Let me know. And I'm just gonna test this length and this amount of insulation stripped to see, yeah, that should work, that'll work. Okay, so I'm just gonna make them all like that. I'm gonna put them all into the terminal blocks, then I can fit those in, hold them with this and flip around the other side to solder little wires there as I go. I used to know how to split my iPad view into two apps and I don't know if they changed something or if I just forgot. But it would be nice to see discord and my safari at the same time. By the way, if you're concerned about frayed ends of stranded wire and your terminal blocks, I do like those little ferrules, those little wire ferrules that you can crimp that gives it something to squish down against, which is what the screw terminal wants to do. Those are nice, I used those on that other phone, one of those other phone projects. Okay, so now I'll just connect these. By the way, sometimes terminals come all screwed all the way down and you have to unscrew them to open it up enough to feed some wire into. I suppose I could have gotten these even more precise by not stripping and making the cut exact until I put them into the terminal, but I think this is gonna work out, it's pretty close. Okay, so now I'm gonna feed these, I'm gonna actually retwist them so they don't fray. Now I'll try to feed these into their relative holes in the PCB, there we go. See if I can, there we go. Okay, so now I have a nice little connection to the board. Like I said, I don't think all of those were necessary, but I also suspect it'll be okay. Andy Cowley says, I hate the ones with those spring things inside, I never know where I'm supposed to put the wire above or I agree, yeah, those are maddening. Okay, so these, I can tilt this a little bit so you can see what's going on. These right here, I'm gonna solder. This little, by the way, this little soldering iron is neat, it does, however, have settings for cool down that I probably can adjust and never have. This thing even has like flashable firmware. I think it's a STM32 or something running these. And so this one is cooled down, but it does heat up pretty quickly. Okay, so we'll solder these into place and then I will trim those with my beat up diagonal cutters. I don't know what I cut with these that I shouldn't have, but they've got all kinds of nicks and dings. I tried to smooth them with a file and I think I made it worse. Okay, so motor controllers in, let's go ahead and do the boost converter here. So this, I think I'm just gonna use some header pins in these. I don't know if these are spaced to be able to keep a strip with, I'll show you what my idea is. This doesn't always work out. It looks like it will. Okay, so what I'm gonna do is snap off a section that fits, even though this only has, I went one too far again. What do I need? How many? One, two, three, four, five, six. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven. One too many, again. Break one off. Attempt to break one off. There we go. And then I'm gonna yank out the middle pins that aren't needed just because this gives me a little bit of a better structure rather than snipping individual ones, which just become a big pain to solder. So I'll try to yank out these middle ones like so. Okay, so now this little goal post that I can place like that. And into the board should fit. Ooh, that's a tiny, yeah, there it goes, okay. Nice, okay, so that's how I'll, if it is just a little tight, you can see it's kind of trapezoidal. But if that will let me, will it? No, yes, okay. Let's see if it'll really work if I do both sides like that. Let's find out, I might need to shimmy it into place. Also I can temporarily pull that boost converter out of the way. So let's make another one of these little goal posts. Pull out the, sorry, I can't really do that on camera without knocking over some lights and things that are sitting right here. There we go. I may see if I lift it up a bit before putting it in that might make it easier. And which way is which? I think in is in. So get that right. It also says on the top, that's good. There and there we go. And now we can press that in. So again, we could have gone all the way and used sockets for that, but I don't think it's necessary. I'm gonna use that converter right on the board. Hey, Make It Hackin has arrived in our chat. Thank you so much for showing up. And this is a really nicely done board. By the way, really nice and thick PCB. These are impressive. You could use the spares as a coaster, I think. So just to catch you up, I've done standoff headers for the boost converter. I don't think I need all four of these. I think that's an extra wire there, but I just happened to put it in. I don't think that's used, but tell me if I'm wrong. And so I can press that in like that, but I'm gonna go ahead and solder down boost converter to some header pins there, just to get it in place. And Make It Hackin, thank you so much for this board. Okay, here we go. One question is what is the, what are the specs on this boost converter? What's the input and output range that it can do? Okay, so that connects the boost to the tops of those headers, and I'll flip it over, and we can connect that to the board. And like so, yeah, Make It Hackin's the two of those wires are not used. And I'm assuming it's okay that I've connected them. I won't hurt anything. So this, by the way, I'm gonna end up trimming these header pins. They're really a lot longer than they need to be. I'm gonna try to get them down pretty flush. This is the kind of thing that I ruin my little cutters and even thicker stuff, but header pins are pretty thick. And where are those? Okay, so let me take this out and show you. So these excess and wear safety glasses or any kind of eye protection when you snip those as they come off at a billion miles an hour. Also, there are some mounting holes on here, which is great. So if you end up wanting to mount this inside of a project box or something like that, that would be terrific. All right, it's looking cool. And let's see, I probably can do from here kind of smallest things from the middle on outward. So I'll do these resistors and then the buttons and switches and then this display and these biggest buttons. You could get away with kind of any order on these, but that's how I tend to approach it. So these are 10K resistors for the buttons in case your microcontroller doesn't support that. So I'm gonna take, these are, mount, the spacing on these is gonna be basically as tight as you can bend them, which is one of my favorite choices by footprint designers because it makes it easy to just bend your resistor legs by hand. So these are 10Ks, I verified that with a multimeter earlier just because it's sadness when you have to replace resistors because you put the wrong values in or any part for that matter. So these will go in like this. I am in the habit, particularly from synthesizer modules of soldering things like this from the top, if I can. These don't have huge pads on them, but if you can see here, oh, and by the way, one thing I wanted to try and I might mount this if it actually is helpful is using my magnifier app on the phone if it doesn't have too much of a glare. So if you can see that here, let's go to that. Where is that? There it is. Okay, so let's move everything and there. Can you see that well enough? Yeah, I'd have to refocus. I don't think, I don't know if that's worth it. Maybe another time. But if I mount the phone on a little mount arm, you might be able to look through that. But just imagine you're seeing a resistor get soldered in place. So I'll do this from the top just because then I don't have to worry about flipping stuff over. It's a little easier, I find in some cases, especially for things that wanna fall out. These resistors won't because of how tight the legs are bent in there, but there's no reason you can't solder things like that in from the top. Okay, so that's one 10K, there's another. Todd says, ruined cutters, I have two cutters, one really nice pair for trimming delicate things, and now one crappy messed up pair I use for snipping big terminals. Yeah, these are really pretty wrecked. I made them so much worse trying to file them. Okay, resistor number two. If you wanna get a lot of practice at surface mount or through hole, there's a lot of great synthesizer kits that I've built, especially things like the company Bafako modular synthesizer kits that are, boy you'll get a lot of soldering practice building. One of those modules, they just have so many parts. I built a six channel VCA mixer that was a gazillion parts. Tolerance bands on the left or right OCD question. I've done them wrong. I prefer to put them on the right, I put them on the left, but I'm at least gonna keep them same self-same consistent, good question. So what C Grover is referring to there is the color bands on the resistor that tell you its value and its tolerance, and since I tend to read that, and a lot of people tend to read that left to right. If you're really particular, you'll kind of wanna put them in the same direction, it makes them easier to look at and know, oh yeah, those three are all the same. So I put, I have the gold band, which is the tolerance, which is what, 10%? I think that means it's within 10% of the color codes, 10% of 10K in this case. Okay, and now I'll do these 1Ks here. There's 1K, a pair of 1K resistors here, there's also one up here, and these are for LEDs, there's some status LEDs. So here's my 1Ks, I measured them, marked them. Actually, Andrew marked the 10Ks, I think, which makes it pretty clear, the others are the 1K, because there's only two values of these. Okay, so let's keep our tolerance band to the left for this build. I'll place these. Yeah, ideally your flush cutters won't kind of bend the end. Also, putting them in from the top and soldering from the top means that you don't have the temptation to put them all in from the top and then flip them over and then solder them, which often leads to missing, forgetting to solder some legs or things falling out. So that is another reason I do it that way, if you're wondering. There is no right way, there's just whatever you prefer for a lot of these types of tricks and tips. All right, gold band to the left. Franklin says, nice to see a good through-hole project. Yeah, this is, I really like this and I suspect the other kits that make it hackin' has done are also nice, not a ton of parts. So you can get it done in a reasonable amount of time. I don't know if this show will go longer than usual, I think if I stick with this. By the way, you can also consider this tacking the legs in place and then flip things over and go at them from the bottom if you want to. If it seems like it's necessary, I don't think it's really necessary in this case. This is not a bad time to flip it over and hack off these leads with my sad cutters. Ooh, make it hackin' said, I'm gonna make a surface mount version for a compact ringer if people don't wanna build it. Oh yeah, so that would just be like a productized one, that's very cool. Let's see, why don't we put in the last resistor? It's kinda nice to get things like that out of the way. If you wanna do some really involved projects, another thing I've done is, again, just because I like to do Eurorack synthesizer stuff is find a bill of materials and order a bunch of parts from Digikey and then you're responsible for marking everything and putting them into little organized categories and checking things off as you do them, which is also kinda fun. So let's, but yeah, I do, maybe I'll do a surface mount build of something on here sometime because ultimately, once you get comfortable with and have the techniques for doing surface mount, it is quicker and easier than through-hole just because of not doing all the things you see me doing here, like bending stuff and fitting stuff into holes and trimming things. Okay, so our resistors are in. We can do our, let's do switches. So we've got these little switches here. These I cannot solder from the top, so I will need to bend the legs a little bit before I flip it over. Rufus, I agree, bands should be in digit order and definitely don't reverse them. I think I got mine all consistent, self-same, at least. So these here, this would be the perfect time for me to actually find my blue tack. Where did I put it? Let's try again real quick to see if I locate the missing blue tack. I might, you know what, I'm just gonna check over here real quick. Let's change our camera view for a second while I, where is the missing blue tack? Nope, not here, rats. I'm sure I'd find it there. Oh well. So let's either tape those or try to bend them a little bit. So this, I'm just gonna splay them out. Yeah, I think I'm gonna do that. Okay, so just, I'm just reaching under here and pulling the outer leg out a bit. I can show you what I'm doing actually. So I'll hold those in place with my finger. So I'm just going in here. You can use a tool instead of your fingernail if you don't want to ding up your fingernails. So those are held in place pretty well. I will probably also try to tack it and then hold the switch kind of flush to make sure it's not loose in there. Todd says this is why I should organize the shop by color. Look for blue tack in the blue section. I think that's the problem. I actually have gray. The blue tack I have is gray and not blue for some reason. That's what's really throwing this off, I bet. So I'm just gonna hold that with one finger, hold the solder with the other and I'm soldering down the middle. Whoa, clean that iron tip. Okay, so with one leg soldered, you can, it's a good idea to flip it over and see, okay, this one's a little janky, so I'm gonna just heat that and work that into place so you can see here. I'll heat it and then get it flush. It's best to do this when you just have one leg of something soldered. Okay, those look neat. I like it, so now I'll flip it over and finish. This, by the way, is one of my favorite panavises for this kind of thing. It's one of the bigger ones, but it has a couple of options for how you orient things. It's just solid and sturdy and heavy. You don't need to, you can bolt it down to a bench. You don't need to. Ways enough to use it like this pretty neatly. Make it hack and just post to the GitHub on the Discord. Thank you for that. And again, we'll go in with the janky cutters and try to trim that up. Oh my gosh, these are terrible. I have a nice set in my studio workshop inside, but these are, oh my gosh, these are terrible. I'm gonna throw these away. That's not the nicest looking job on those. I will finish those off later. Okay, so switches are in place. So it looks like we have a booster for, I'm guessing for voltage. If you're using USB versus battery and then powering the microcontroller on and off, probably with the enable pin, yeah? Okay, so now we'll put in some buttons. Let's start with this little one here. This is a reset for the microcontroller, I presume. These are great because they, whoops, there goes that little light. They really grab the board so you can flip it over immediately and solder it from underneath if you can find it. That one right there. Yeah, they're really not cutters anymore over there, they're gnaws. I might as well just ask Lars to gnaw away the leads. So this, now we can, how about do those LEDs and then these switches? So I believe, let me double check my documentation from, make it hackin'. Okay, so yellow is the LED one. So this is gonna be, you can see the footprint shows the flat side of the LED, which is, gosh, barely visible on this LED. Someone remind me, that's the ground side, yeah? Short leg, short leg. I'll do these two and then the power one over there. So again, I'm just reaching underneath this and bending the legs a bit so it stays in place best we can when I flip it over. Again, blue tack, we're holding it, we're tape. Many strategies for that. Let's get just a bit of solder on one and then I'll square it up. Again here, I'll just tack that, then hold it, heat it again and then press it up. Oh, that's a mess. So let's flip that over and check those look janky. So I'm gonna hold this one and look at it while I, there we go, popped into place. Back to this cord here so I can see comments. Ground is flat, thank you. One of these things I never internalize and always need to double check so I don't just release smoke from the diode. So let's gnaw these off again. Oh my gosh, I swear there's a spot on here where it actually contacts the other side fully. There it is. There's like one good spot on these cutters at this point as I filed them poorly. All right, so let's do the other LED, why not? So again, short leg, flat side and this one faces a different direction than the other ones, so you just gotta pay attention. A lot of larger builds, it's really recommended that you take a break, eat something, try to not do it all at once or you start to get lazy and make mistakes. I'm gonna ignore all that, actually I'll drink some coffee. So I'm gonna press that from underneath. It'll be worth a check, that looks pretty good, pretty straight. Sorry, I did not hold that up to the camera for you. Yeah, make it hacken, this is a really good vice. This is, I think, I don't remember if they sell these as two parts, but there's like a big base that just gives it a ton of weight. It's also a good parts holder, depending on what you're working on. And then this piece here, you can see it's got these three screws, so that can be just bolted onto something, they have magnet bases, a bunch of other stuff, other ways to mount those. It's got a pretty wide work area too, if you flip this bracket around and go full width, it's like, I don't know, 10, 12 inch board could fit in there. All right, let's take those leads off of there, looking good, so now let's put the rest of these switches in and then I'll do that display. It's been a while since I've built a straight up kit like this, a lot of fun. Okay, so these ones, you can usually just kind of man handle them, but if you want to avoid bending, if you get a little flat head screwdriver, or in this case I'll just use the back end of these tweezers, I'm gonna give those legs a little push inward as I press this down and that helps get that seated really neatly there. You can see they've got, these legs have like a little bend to them to grip the board when they go in properly. You just want to be deliberate with those and make sure they're all gonna push the top ones in first and that'll make it a little easier to persuade these bottom ones in. They generally can just, you can just shove them until they go in, but I have on occasion bent one and been sad. There we go and don't forget on parts like that to actually solder them. This is something I've done more than one time in life where there's a part that goes in so solidly then kind of forget it needs to get soldered and it works intermittently. I've had that happen with IC sockets which is very, can lead to really weird results. Push them into place, maybe solder the corner pins and then forget. There you can tell I think I was on the ground plane there because that one took forever. Thank you, someone put a link up for that vice. I don't know if Adafruit sells this or sells it still. I think they did it at one point. But check PanaVice to see if we're still carrying those. They're a great investment. I have never owned these kinds of sort of hobby vices that are anywhere near the quality of the PanaVice ones. I've had a lot of little cheapy ones that are pretty bad. So all buttons, all LEDs, all resistors, boop, boop, boop. So let's put that little display in. This display will have a little bit of, it's gonna live a little bit up off the surface. So you can cut some foam or something and put it under there if you want before you set it down. You can use some hot glue if you want. What I'll do is probably just take a little bit of this foam that I think maybe this came in, this might've been pressed into here, but I think this came in the kit. And I'm just gonna snip a little bit of that off and set that under there, why not? So I'll put it, cut it in half and thickness wise, cut it down like that. I'll just set that under there. You could come up with a better solution than this, but I'm just gonna, oh, the wind is gonna blow it away. I'm just gonna set that under there. I like these little OLEDs. These, I think that's an OLED, yeah? These show up in a lot of builds of, I think Steve, in fact, okay, you're on, if he's still here, he's got one of those little displays on his OMX27 MIDI sequencer with mechanical key switches. So that, you can see is maybe a little too thick, but what I'll do is compress that board down like that, not the screen, and then solder that into place, and it should be pretty nice. So here's a case again where I'm gonna grab a helping hand with my solder in it. Fun, if this reaches far enough, fun skill to have is to also solder left-handed sometimes when that's more convenient. So square is the ground on these, so I'm not gonna do that one first. Let that cool before moving on. Okay, three pins is good, and I'll do the ground. I don't need to keep holding the board, I think. That, okay, so Jim Hendrickson found, yeah, the Panavis Multipurpose Work Center is in the Adafruit Store, it's item 2452. Okay, at this point, I think I'll leave those and oh gosh, I got that pretty, oh no, I got that a little bit crooked. Ah! All right, so we'll see, this is a pain in the neck, so I've got a little bit of an angle, you can see those legs are like a millimeter off, so it was angled forward a little bit. This is tricky to do without desoldering to go in and heat up four pins like this enough to be able to actually correct that. I've also just bridged two of these, so I'll need to get a solder sucker in there and fix that. Oh okay, so that's pretty good, I got it most of the way corrected, and what I'll do is go in and suck this solder away from here, a wick would be good too if you have that. Yeah, here's the solder sucker, this is a really good one, I've had this one for many years now, but it's an Adafruit sold engineer brand, which is a great brand of stuff, you can get it in other places too, but I love the solder sucker, it has these little silicon tips so it doesn't melt like some plastic tips, but it gets a good suction, there we go. So that, I will re-solder that point, but that means I've no longer got that bridge right there. Okay, solved, chip quick, oh that's another really good answer, yeah. Franklin, thank you. All right, we have our display in place, you know what, I don't like this little foam bit, it is causing more problems than it's worth, I'm gonna find my tweezers and pull that out of there, I don't know where my tweezers are, I'll use a little dental pick. Okay, so same thing, I don't like, I have introduced an angle here that I'm unhappy with, that was all folly, so I'm gonna go ahead and hold down on the PCB again and heat that, try this time to avoid bridging things and just try to be a little more careful, so let's go right here, I'm actually gonna try to view it from below a little bit, okay, I think I felt that move a little, should take a look, yeah it's better, okay. I'm gonna leave the little protective screen on for now just cause I'm still soldering things and that flux loves to jump up onto screens it knows about them. So I think the last bit we've got is our RJ11 jack, and by the way, I think I only have one phone here today that will ring cause I've modified some of those others for other projects, so this one should ring, hopefully, it's possible that it won't, we'll find out, I don't know if I've ever made that one ring since I got it, so this could be a bit anticlimactic, but I promise at some point on this show we will hear a phone ring using this. So it's a really neat kit because it does not have any hard to find parts in it I don't think, since you get to provide the feather, you could use a ESP32 feather I presume, could use a M4 feather, could use one of the Bluetooth and our 52840 feathers, WiFi, Starman double-sided foam tape works really well for that, you're absolutely right, that would have been a good move. Okay, so I just wanna double check because making it, make it hack and said he was gonna double check about these wires that don't need to be here, are they safe to have or are you gonna suggest I disconnect any of those before I try firing that up? All I think that, yeah, you tell me if that's a bad idea because I don't know where some of those are connected in the circuit. Liz says, never seen blue tack before, always white, yeah, when I was a kid we always had blue tack for posters, poster putty, but yeah, nowadays for some reason it's much more common to find that kind of grayish white stuff, maybe it just doesn't bleed through to your wallpaint as easily, okay, so extra wires are fine, okay good, let's try this then, huh? Let's neaten up some things here a little bit and we can put some button caps on too, what color order did you put those in? White, yellow, but we've got different color button caps, all right, I'm just gonna leave those off for now. Let's take a battery, I'm gonna put this to off, I'm gonna put this to battery. Now I think you said maybe the trim pot might need to be adjusted, I can't pull up the PDF over here, so let me know if you think I should get the meter out and test any voltage before we go plug in the phone in, that's my other question, oh wait, I can get the PDF, can't I, yeah, let's see, all right, so, this board requires you adjust the output voltage with the potential on our test for the multimeter, see output should get around 40 volts DC when power is coming from the USB port, okay, so let's do that, I'm gonna plug in no battery, switch this to USB, plug that right, like so, hey, how come my feather, did I get some solder up into the feather header, doesn't wanna, doesn't wanna go in, I bet I did, well, it's connected, but it's very lopsided, I got, I think I flowed solder up into this feather header, whoops, that's a first, okay, so I'm gonna grab a USB-C, I just had one, where'd it go, here it is, so I'm gonna grab a USB-C to power that feather, done, done, done, getting out a potentiometer, not a potentiometer, a multimeter, let's take this light and put that over there, so we're looking for AC voltage, is that right, I think we're looking for, would you say, 40 volts DC, okay, and that's gonna be coming out of that, okay, I see, yeah, of course, the AC is the motor controller's job, so this will be 40 volts DC, okay, yeah, they are low-profile headers, I was probably being silly doing that, it's partly why they aren't all the way down, whoops, I just unplugged half of the feather, which means that the enable switch came off, okay, so this'll turn on the microcontroller, this is USB power, this is, hopefully we can get a reading from that, so that's interesting, why is that draining like that? It's gone down to six volts, 1.5, or millivolts, that does not, oh, I'm on AC, sorry about that, there we go, okay, so at 20 volts, so I'm gonna grab a little flathead for this trim pot, I say that, oh, I already have one on here, okay, so there's a little trim pot right here, turn the booster switch on, okay, yep, we're on, thank you, Andy Calloway, so all my meter was set to AC, it's a fun mistake, okay, so we're at 20, so now I'm gonna adjust this little trim pot to the left, so I'm giving it less resistance, and this is a multi-turn, a little multi-turn trim, so we're at about 29, 30, the meter just put up the danger sign, 30 volts DC is when danger occurs, 36, seven, okay, that's as far as it wants to go, and let's get boost off, boost on, 37, okay, I think that's, I'm not sure why, if you think I should be getting more than that, but 37.35 is where this trim pot is bottoming out, I wonder, do you think I'll get more off of battery? Let's turn this off, and unplug USB, I'm sure you're screaming at me, don't do that, let's see, this is also the most dangerous feather, I cracked the battery JST connector shroud, so it's not really keyed anymore, so you gotta be a little careful you put that in properly, so I'm gonna switch over to battery, and see what we get, same, okay, well, that's probably good, yeah, so 38 to 40 is what you're seeing, great, okay, that looks good, I say let's just try it, so let's get the multimeter out of the way here, I'm actually gonna turn off my AC, it is actually a little chilly in here now, let's clean up a bit, because nothing worse than, in fact, let me turn this off, one thing I will recommend with these kinds of through-hole projects is before you start turning stuff on, just tap and do this little inspection that you don't have little trimmed leads bridging stuff, it's a really sad way to ruin something, is the trimmings of your through-hole leads are bridging power to ground, also another tip is check that you don't have a short between power and ground before you go turning these things on, that was another thing I usually do that I didn't do, crossing my fingers is make it hacken, if this doesn't work, I suspect it's this phone here, so I've never tested this yard sale telephone for ringing, I have used it, I think I plugged it into my voice over IP cable mode of me kind of thing and used it to make and receive a call, but maybe I heard it ring, I'm not sure, now I'm thinking maybe I did, dun-dun-dun, click, satisfying click, okay, battery power on booster, we have a little lovely to say American, button B, British, and C is single, it's trying, button A pressed American ring, but it is not ringing this thing, oh come on thing, let's try USB or in case that battery is not up to the task, okay, so the microcontroller has power, power is onto USB, interesting, there we go, booster on, oh it's trying but it is not gonna do it, I suspect this phone wants more than that, it probably wanted the full 40, I hear crackling, oh it's definitely making a sound, you can hear it, I think it's, let me see if you can hear this, so that is probably the sound of the microphone or rather the earpiece cutting in and out because it doesn't blast the sound of the ring through your earpiece, yeah, make a hack, it says older phones seem to require a higher voltage of theirs, why did I toss, I had a phone right here, I don't know why I got rid of it and I don't think this one is actually, I rewired this lineman's handset which I don't even think has a bell in it, yeah that one, why did I get rid of, I don't think I have any sort of newer phones with me, okay, pretend that we heard a really great ring, I'm sorry I didn't test this phone in advance but I suspect that it probably, this ringer will work with a more modern phone, do I have anything I can run and grab, I don't think I do, why, yeah I foolishly, I raided some of my older or not as old phones for some parts for some of my recent projects and so I don't think I have a phone, Drat, sorry about that, ring, ring, I'm sure it's trying, so look on the bottom of the telephone, the volume wheel, okay, high volume, so this phone by the way, the volume wheel is like a dampener on the bell, yeah I think it just doesn't have the oomph, there's also a chance that, could this one be the reverse sink, I think this one has the little converter box that allows it to work, there's like a rectifier inside of here that was like an add-on when some of these phones came into service to reverse the polarity of it, oh why did the feather reset, that's interesting, Drat, yeah we can definitely hear it trying to do something, all right, so I will get a phone, I'll get a slightly newer phone and we'll try that out with that, yeah see Grover asked does the lineman's tester have a ringer, I don't think it does and I think I rewired this to act just as a switch, I like pulled it apart and I don't think I put it back as it was intended, we can try it though, this will be the last thing we try, so I've got probably trying to think what the best way, yeah probably the best way to try to connect that is with this and this little lineman's tester, now these have these bed of nails things so we'll see if that works, but I honestly don't know what line on the modular jack here it's trying to ring over and it's a little tricky to discern from the board, if anyone knows, I don't think it's just like red and black or something as simple as that honestly, try the American ring again, okay so let's plug this back in, come on thing, okay last, you know what, forget the lineman's tester because I really don't think that has a bell or a buzzer or anything in it, I could be wrong, maybe it clicks, but the one thing I do want to do is open this phone and make sure that it's actually still connected as expected, let's get a flat head, a larger flat head, think that it's the middle two red and green, okay, so yeah sorry this is how you know this is not a cooking show, I did not have this tested and prepared in advance, yes be careful with the voltage, thank you, this is, okay so this is the little, I mentioned, this phone has a, unplug the phone from here, this phone has a little telephone company added rectifier here to deal with the house wiring or station wiring would have sometimes been reversed, it looks, everything looks intact, I did not mess with any of the wiring in this one, so this is wired as it was, I think this worked, I think I rang this with my home line, so it should work, but it's probably just wanting slightly higher voltage, the one risky thing I'll try is just I'll grab a little piece of plastic and I will try to jumpstart the, a little solenoid as it's ringing, so let's plug this in like that, let's turn it, that's a, there we go, this could also be potentially my header wiring there, right, oh no I guess a lot of things wouldn't work if that were the case, so I'm gonna, so I think, yeah I can hear it, no it does not wanna, does not wanna kick that solenoid into gear, all right, all right we'll turn that off, we'll call this only a partial success, I'm gonna unplug this here and we'll call that, let me move over here so yeah this is off, unplug this, I'll dig into this more and see, I suspect the code is all running right because the OLED was doing its thing and we heard it trying to call, but it just probably doesn't have the oomph for that, yeah Axel Mainz says, can we see the signal on a oscilloscope, not on a oscilloscope, that would be a good idea, Charles Brunnerford says, do you have a princess phone? I do not, see Grover said just checked some newer butt sets, the little Lyman's handset do have electric ringers in them, anything else? Could put a step up transformer between the phone and the circuit, yes that's a possibility, we could try to boost that further, I wanna control it with an ESP-82 or ESP-32, yeah for sure and I think if you look just so you can have some satisfaction, let me find the demo that make it hack and did of this actually working, so you can see it ring, let me go to our show and tell, try to find that episode, can we sort these by date or do you happen to know the date you were on? Make it hack and that would be helpful. Or let me know if you have that up on your own YouTube, I bet you do, let's see, make it hack and. After you say, will these by- Videos, do you have a demo up, looks like no, all right if you can send me, if someone can send me, on last, it was last week, thank you, I forgot already, was it really? A lot has happened, go to, Welcome. Show and tell, what was last week's show and tell? There would be three, 16, so you're gonna say it could be that the GPIO pin signals aren't getting to the motor control, I think it is though because when I lifted the receiver, I heard it brrrring, so it was, I think it was getting all the way to the phone, that's my suspicion. Show and tell, I must have the date wrong, was it the 15th, what was last Wednesday? Just been the 16th, is that only in our live streams? Show and tell, yeah it was through 16th, okay here we go, here it is. Lots of voltage, some particular timing, and it's what put us together just arrived this afternoon, so I have here's a feather here. Here we go, there's kind of like a spot if you do a standoff to put a battery underneath, and you have a few buttons to ring a few different styles or whatever you want, there's some indicator LEDs, now there's a feather wing breakout, you can do it from USB or you can put on a battery, I don't think the batteries last too long depending on the size, that signal is fed into this boost pad, US ring. All right, good, so we've at least gotten some, hopefully some satisfaction in seeing it ring. I will try to fix that feather header on there, and I'll also trot out some other phones if I can find them. And, see Grover said maybe it's just one PWM on the H bridge rather than both, yeah I've got some troubleshooting to do. But thanks for, hopefully that was interesting and you learned some things about how I approach putting together a little kit like that, and we will keep you updated and I think we have, wow, we have well run over our time, that was an hour and 45 minute live stream, so I'm gonna get out of here, thanks everyone so much for stopping by for John Park's workshop, I will be back next Tuesday with another JP's product pick of the week, and I believe we have Tim tomorrow with a deep dive with Tim or deep dive with Foamy Guy, if he's around he can probably answer that question in the chat. Thank you everyone so much, and we will see you next time. Pray to your industries. I'm John Park, this has been John Park's workshop, bye bye.