 Hey everybody, I got the Tevo Tarantula Pro and we're going to build it today. My name is Jim and this is the Edge of Tech. So like I said, we're going to be building the Tevo Tarantula Pro today right here and it's going to be awesome. I'm so pumped for this thing. There's so many people that say this thing really prints great and I can't wait to see for myself. I got to thanks Tevo for sending me the printer to build it for you and to do some follow-up videos for you. Thank you so much. I really appreciate the partnership and I hope it continues in the future. A couple of facts right from their website or stats per se. The print speed, they say between 60 and 150 millimeters a second. The build volume is 235 by 235 by 250. The layer resolution on their website, they say between 0.05 and 0.35. It's got an MK3 heatbed. It supports all sorts of different materials. You're going to get PLA, ABS, flexible PLA wood, PVA, hips, PETG, all the good stuff. It's a 24-volt power supply, 8.5 amps if you need to know and 200 watts. It's an MKS Gen L Version 1 control board and an MKS Mini LCD display. So that's the stats and let's get this thing built. Let's do it. So I just got the box open to get this going and I wanted to show you a little bit. In the top there's a foam piece there and everything is packed in here pretty dang good. I just want to point out that this is a full kit. You have to build everything from the bottom up. Unlike the Ender 3 which is partially built and you just finish it, this is a full kit. So it is going to take a little while. But if I tip this box out, maybe, you can kind of see inside and stuff will kind of slide but everything is packed pretty good and we're going to dive in and get this build going. Alright so I just unboxed everything here and I laid it all out and there was a couple of cool things that I wanted to point out. Number one, all of the bags of parts are individually labeled and they call those out in the instructions which is really cool. There's even one in here for tools, there's screws, all the different bags are labeled. So in the instructions you're not digging through plastic bags trying to find specific screws. All the bags are labeled that way you can go right to those and get those parts. That's pretty cool. The other thing is, like I said, it's a full kit. Almost nothing here is assembled. There's a couple pieces and so we're going to have to do it all. A couple other things. It looks like we got a full build sheet and the early ones I believe there was holes in each corner. In this case there's not. It's going to sit right over the top and I'm assuming they're going to use clips. I haven't got that far yet. They do include a USB, some voting tubes, the belts of course, the motors, the screen, the control box. Everything you see is pretty cool. Another thing I noticed is they give you this for your test filament and it's just kind of here. It's all tangled up. I'm not a fan of that. I wish it would have been on a spool or a little easier to use. I'm not sure. I probably won't use this but I just wanted to throw it out there. They do give you some filament and it's more than Creality gives you on their Ender Threes but it was all tangled and stuff when I got it. Other than that, I got it all ready. Let's get building. Step number one, what you want to do is grab the A01 bag, the 220 x 40 extrusions here and the 20 x 40, 250 millimeter extrusions here. These are 350 millimeters. These are 250 millimeters and you're going to orientate them just like this. In the older instructions, it says to make sure the countersunk parts are faced down. In this case, they're actually countersinking both sides so it shouldn't matter which orientation you are. Then you need this one right here and it has five holes in there. You can see them through there and it's going to be orientated just like this. Then what you're going to do is take your bag of parts. We're going to spill all the parts onto the table. Again, I really like that they give you bag numbers and names. That way you can look just right towards those parts. It makes it so much easier. Next thing we want to do is pull up the bolts and we are going to do that and this. So I just stood up all of those and we're going to just put the spring washers on all of them. Just so you don't forget to do that, that's probably a good idea. Once we get all the spring washers on here, we are going to take the longer screws and we're going to attach the extrusions to each other. Two are going to go in here and two on the other side. I'll get them started with my fingers so they're started good and then two are going to go in this side. I'm actually going to use my driver here. They did come with Allen wrenches. You can use those two in the kit. I just find this to be a little bit quicker. I'm going to put these four screws in and I'll be right back. So I got the two bolts put in here and here and now everything's held together pretty nice. I want to point out that you want to do this on a hard level surface. When I did this and I put it together, it was really rocking. So I actually had to twist the extrusions a little bit in order to make them all flush and level and I want to reiterate the fact that these have to be flush and level and square from the bottom up. It'll be a much better print if everything's just straight from the beginning. I'm going to take a measuring tape here and we're going to measure and I got 13 inches on the outside. We got 13 inches on the outside and I got 13 inches on the outside. It tells us that we're straight all the way across. You can also do the inside if you want to. That's up to you. I just went all the way up and it was 13 in three spots. I'm pretty good. I'm going to move on now. Now take the feet and these bolts here and we are going to put the t-nuts on the end. So you can put your Allen wrench in the bottom, take your t-nut and just give it a couple twists. We want to make sure these are still pretty loose because we need to put them on so they don't need to be tight or anything yet. They're pretty easy. Just throw them through the center and hold it and then screw your t-nut on. Now you want to put the t-nut on so the angles are down. So it's flat up here and then it angles downwards. If you put them on the opposite way, they'll be upside down. Take the feet and the way to do that is to take your t-nut, line it up straight, push it in, take your Allen wrench or your driver and spin it. Just do it so it's tight but not too tight because you don't want to crush this rubber here. I'll show you exactly what that looks like in a second. One thing I noticed on this side is I went over the edge. Let's keep it all. We've got to keep them pushed in so we don't go over this edge. And when you get them done, they'll look like that. So I got the back on here and I just wanted to point something out. If I tip this up and turn it sideways a little, you can see that these two here are on the outside extrusion. These two here, so if I do this, the shorter side up here, they're on the inside of the extrusion and the instructions do say to do that. I just wanted to point that out. So go inside extrusion here, outside extrusion there, and then we'll flip this over and we're going to install our next extrusion right on the top. One thing I wanted to point out, you'll need the next extrusion here, which I believe is the 400 millimeter one, but inside of that, the Z screw or your lead screw lives. So you want to be very careful that if you're working, you don't dump that out and you don't hit the ground with it because you don't want that to warp. The next step is to take this 400 millimeter extrusion and make sure that where they counter-sunk it here is face up because your bolt heads are going to go inside of that. So we're going to do that. Take the four bolts that are left in that first pack and we are just going to screw them down in. Now I got the top extrusion on and I want to point out that you need to make this flush and straight with the rest of the frame. So how I did that was, first I got a small square like this and I went to the edges and I loosened up these four bolts just a little bit and I made sure that I was square across here from here to here. Then I flipped it around and I did the same thing on this side. Made sure this was square with this. Then what I did while I was holding it here is I tightened a screw here, I tightened this one and then I kind of went in a star pattern. You don't have to do that, just how I did it and when I was all done, I took my measuring tape and I just measured and I got the same measurement in each four of the corners now and that's how you know you're going to be straight. Now grab the front panel assembly, which is this one here, your screen and bag labeled A-02. How we're going to install this is the panel is going to go like this, it's going to be pushed in from the back but there's these little brass spacers here like that and they need to go between the back and your control panel and in the front we're going to use four of these little baby screws and we're going to use four of those little baby screws also in the back of the control panel and they're going to screw into either side of your spacer. So how that's going to look is we will take our little baby screw here, we're going to push it through, you're going to take a spacer, you're going to screw it on to that, make sure it's tight and we're going to do all four. Now we've got all four of the black little bolts in there and all four of the spacers in. Now we're going to take our screen, we're going to flip it over and we're going to set it right on top of those spacers and it should line up with all four of those holes. Then take your little black bolts again and it's going to be hard to see but you're basically going to screw them in from the back. I'm going to use our Owner wrench for this, I found that was easier but just like this so there's going to be one here, one there, one here and one there. So now we've got all four of these bolts in from the back and how that looks from the front is just like this. So it's actually probably going to sit like that on the printer and you just want to be careful, you don't break anything, it looks like there's a full size SD card here, a button here and you just want to make sure you don't break anything while you're putting this on from the back or anything. Now take the little bolts that are left in the T-nuts and those are actually going to go in these two holes right on the side of each side. Just a quick PSA, I got the T-nuts on here and you always want to leave them loose because later we're going to be installing these so you want to keep them loose now so you don't have to loosen them later. Now take your YXS motor, the plate and the four small black bolts here, put your plug facing forward towards you, put the motor on the top and then we're going to take the four black bolts and screw these in and we want to make sure they are totally secure because that's going to hold this plate to the motor. So I got all four secure here and as you can see like the plug is still facing down towards you, take the M4, flip these over, take the M4 bolts and the T-nuts and just put them in all three holes. Remember you do not want to make these tight because you're going to use them later and you'll just have to loosen them anyway so push from the bottom up push your M4 and then take your T-nut put your T-nut on and do that for all three. So once you get your T-nuts here as you can see they're in the top you have your plug and your face forward. In this orientation here we have the two holes here and the ones. We're going to take our longer screw that came in that kit push it through then we are going to take our spacer and drop that on then we're going to take one of the bearings and it needs to be big side down and you'll know what I mean there's a small side and a big side then we're going to take the next bearing and go small side down so the two small sides are now in the center it's a lock washer or lock nut and we are going to tighten that down onto it. So what I'll do is I'll grab my allen wrench here and I'll grab a little wrench for this side and we'll just tighten it down so I went ahead and zoomed in so you can see this as it was finished we have screw mount spacer bearing bearing lock nut and you just want to get it tight but not over tight these will still turn nicely and that will complete that step that now the last thing we have to do is put our last T-nuts in so now this is complete as you can see bolts in the front see in the back we have T-nut T-nut and our bearing assembly now we take our grub screw and we're going to set it down on there for now and I'm just going to tighten it in a little bit I'm actually going to raise it up a little and just tighten it in just enough to hold it but later on we're going to be adjusting this but the instructions did say to put it on at this point now we're going to move on to the bed carriage assembly and it's going to be screws bag B02 that's what this is here I got everything laid out exactly how it's going to go and the bed carriages is orientated the way it needs to be as well so as you can see the two tabs are here and if I turn them up you can see that better there's two tabs and they are facing to my right and then you have two different sets four wheels here in two different sets on this side we have the eccentric nuts and those are going to go in this side here and this side you're going to have your free rolling wheels just how I have them laid out is how they're going to go together so we're going to do a screw into the wheel into the spacer down through the carriage and then lock washer on the end and we're going to do that for this side on the eccentric nut side we're going to do a screw down through the wheel into a little bit of washer here down through the eccentric nut which we'll face down into here like that and then underneath we'll do the lock nuts so what I mean is you have your bolt your wheel your brass spacer in there and then your eccentric nut and on your eccentric nut it looks like this you want to make sure that goes in so the lip is down here because that is what will flip over and go inside the plate so now we have all four wheels on our bed carriage assembly on the right side here you have your eccentric nuts and on the left side here they're just your standard if I flip this around so you can see the back you can see everything's tightened from the back and it is okay to tighten these down on the eccentric nut side don't over tighten them but it's okay to have them tight because you don't want these wobbling at all so this is how the motor will be orientated you'll have the two t-nuts here and the one here the motor plug is back facing the back of the machine I like to just hold them and push them in like this and then you're in there now all you need to do is tighten them from the bottom it'll spin those t-nuts and lock those in okay quick time for a little explanation about the next shots where I add the belt I need to interject because originally when I built this I actually screwed up and I did not have this in the right orientation so in the next couple shots you're going to see this backwards the motor is going to be here the pulley is going to be here and that's not how it should be this is how it should be this is the front of the machine your end stop should be here your pulley should be here your back motor should be there and your belt should be on the right side of the machine as you're looking at it so just so you see the orientation this is the back of the machine so the short piece here is the rear your motor sits here and in the long pieces right here now right here on the same side as the motor we're going to install the idler pulley it's just going to sit right in here and it's just going to tighten in right through the top of the extrusion your t-nuts should spin and tighten it down you don't have to go crazy tight right now because we are going to tighten it up when we do the belt it's in there now what we want to do is pull the carriage back so it lines up right here with the gear and we need this to be exactly lined up because that's where your belt's going to go through as you can see mine's not see it's a little bit low on the gear side so we're going to loosen the grub screws here just a little bit we're going to raise this up and make sure that's even as you can see you want to make sure that is even back there not above or below so I got it adjusted and as you can see as I bring it through it is just about perfect just in line with that grub screw and that's exactly what you need I just want to point out that when you do tighten these grub screws down and you get it lined up make sure that one of them is on the flat spot and that way it won't move later and make sure they're good and tight now what we want to do is go to bag B-03-1 grab an end stop an end stop mount a bolt the t-nut and two little screws now we're going to make sure the mount here is orientated just like this square side on the left round side or ovular side on the right we're going to take your end stop and place it on take your two screws and screw it to that board now that you got this screw down to the board I was wrong we need one of the black screws and the t-nuts so also I wanted to point out when I was tightening this down I held it from the sides I started both and then I tightened one at each time that way I wasn't pressing down on any of the components here I just wanted to make sure they didn't break anything so I held it from the side while I was screwing it in take your bolt push it down through the top and attach your t-nut like we have a few other times already now we take that end stop and we slide it into the right side of our frame here the other side here is our idler pulley and this is where it's going to go and I'm going to pull it almost all the way back I'm going to hold it there I'm going to use my allen wrench in this case my allen driver and just tighten it in so it's nice and even now because there's only one here just make sure it's straight and flush here with the frame and you're going to come back and that's going to be your y-end stop the next thing we're going to need is one of the belts that came with the kit and some zip ties and the zip ties they're all in bag labeled tools this is going to be um a little bit tricky but we're going to get through it and we're going to make it work so what we need to do is this is the teeth of the belt we need to make sure those teeth are orientated so they can go around here and then they're going to come around your idler pulley and then come back and connect into your plate so in order to do that I'm going to pull this back and start with the end here this is a little better shot we're going to push the belt through here and as you can see the teeth are here we're going to bend the belt over so the teeth are smushed against each other and then we're going to take a couple of zip ties and and zip tie this real tight together so now you can see I loop the belt over and I secured them with two zip ties you can see the tails hanging off right here you can see the belt is looped over each other the two zip ties are securing it now all we need to do is just snip those tails off and you got a connected belt to your plate now that we have it secured under this side and you can see the teeth are going against the grub gear here right here we're going to bring that around just like this we're going to loop it under our idler here and we're going to secure it to the other side of this plate so it comes around the gear here comes up goes around our idler pulley our tensioner and then it comes back down here and it's going to secure in the same tab like it did on this side under this plate now as you can see I went down around that pulley I went through the belt slot here and we have quite a bit of belt left so we want to make sure we have some tension on here before we zip tie these so you don't want it to be completely loose because then you won't get it tight enough when you're tensioning your belt because we're going to actually cut the excess off here so make sure you have some okay tension here or some decent tension here you can pull it through a little bit you know if you want it a little better so once you got some good tension it doesn't have to be real tight right now just has to be some good tension on there that way it's not all sloppy that way when you pull the idler back it actually will tension this we're going to pinch this together we're going to zip tight right in here and then we're going to cut the excess belt off when we're done with that so I was finding this kind of hard to keep tension and then try to zip tie all at once so what I did was I put my zip ties on loose as you can see here now I'm going to pull my tension just to make sure I have some some good tension through there once I get it where I want it I'll put the zip ties down and I'll secure it now that I have some good tension I'm going to slide my zip tied down and we're going to attach it like that you want to snip your belt about like that so it leaves about an inch here but everything is nice and tight you should have a good tight connection here in your belt the teeth should be grabbing each other so you're not going to slip and when you go back and forth now everything is good and you're pulley on the other side is rolling as well so now that we got our belt on you can see it starts here it wraps around goes around the pulley and then it connects back here like we just shown now what we want to do is pull our Y carriage all the way back almost till it hits that idler or pulley just right before it then as you can see here this is our Y end stop what we need to do is we need to push this forward and until it stops on this wheel that way your Y will stop before it crashes into that idler pulley so if you listen when you push it forward you hear a click so what you want to do is hold your Y carriage right before it crashes into that pulley then take your Y end stop here push it forward until it clicks and that's where you're going to tighten it in and that will be your final resting place you can adjust this later but it should click right before the carriage crashes into your pulley grab your control box and you need to grab the bag A04 on the control box you find all of your stuff zip tied here just very carefully cut that zip tie we're going to need this to be loose that way we can put the control box on turn your control box right side up then take one of the bolts here and push it up through the bottom like this and install your t-nut on there slide our base over and you're going to line that the front of this thing up so the t-nut goes inside the extrusion underneath here carefully there we go and then it needs to be on the inside extrusion so once your t-nut is set here it's going to set it in the path if i spin this around now you can see that this is the back of the machine and your t-nut will hold this up and we're going to use a couple more of these screws here and we're going to attach the control box right to the frame i'm not going to tighten them fully yet just get them in there then turn this on its side when it's on its side your t-nut will be right here it's kind of hard to see just make sure it's in that extrusion and tighten it in like we've done the other ones so we spin that back over your control box is now sitting on it just like that you got two bolts or screws here bolts really and then a t-nut connecting it underneath here now grab your power supply here and you'll find the connector on both sides and connect that in from that package you have three more screws and t-nuts those are going to go right here with the screw facing down and the t-nut underneath now that the t-nuts are on all three of those we want to slide our power supply in on the left side or the side opposite of the control box we're going to slide it in and just be careful for these wires you don't want to crimp or pinch them or anything like that they should sit underneath this extrusion just fine so slide those in and we're going to put the uh got to make sure your t-nuts are orientated right they're going to sit in that extrusion and we're going to tighten these three down to hold the power supply so I flip this over so you can see what it looks like from the bottom here's your control panel and so I flip this over so you can see what it looks like from the bottom here's your control box and here's your power supply now there is a little screw right here that actually is the grounding screw that screws into here and it's just long enough where it's actually scratching up my bar top pretty bad so I put some tape over it for now and I believe I'm gonna have to go through and put a washer or two in there just so it's a little bit shorter and it doesn't scrape now what we want to do is take the front panel that we made before and it is going to install on the front of the printer you'll want to line up your t-nuts and what they'll do is they'll slide right into the extrusions if they're all lined up and it should sit just like this tighten those t-nuts in so it's nice and tight something to think about we do not want to over tighten these just all the way till it's snug and that's about it next thing we need is our hot bed here we need bag is B-02-1 and that's going to include everything we need to connect the plate the hot bed to the carriage here how that's going to work is we're going to take a screw we're going to push it through we're going to take a spring we're going to push that right here and then we're going to put it down into the plate into the carriage so this shot shows better how everything is connected what we have here is the bolt up here that comes down through the spring and this is our carriage our plate so we need to take the wheels and put them on the easiest way to do that is to hold the top and spin them and they're going to spin this way to tighten now we do not want to tighten these all the way down yet just get all four wheels on and then we'll go through that process so i got all the wheels on and what we need to do is grab an allen wrench and just go ahead and start tightening i'm holding the wheel at the bottom and i'm going to tighten this one about halfway so then i'm going to tighten this one about halfway then i'm going to go to the back and tighten those about halfway as well so tighten them all about halfway and then go back and tighten them all all the way down but make sure you start at the front go here then go to the back and tighten them halfway then come back and finish them and then finish the back all the way too you don't want to just tighten this one all the way down and then this one all the way down because then you might get warping in your plate here even though this is a pretty good nice thick plate we want to make sure we're even so start with these two about halfway go to here about halfway come back finish it all the way and then finish the back all the way now I got them all all the way tight so what I need to do now is loosen them all four full turns each the easiest way to do that is to hold the wheel here and take your allen wrench and it's here so there's one two three four and this is going to help us with setting our z-height and leveling the bed later this was actually taught in Luke Hatfield's help guide and this is how we level the beds per that guide now I'm going to work on my extrusions so what we need is the two bigger extrusions and the B01 bag and the contents of the bag there are these spring washers and these bolts put a spring washer on each one of those bolts then we are going to use those bolts to install the uprights so the bolts are going to go through right here and the extrusions are going to screw in like this as far as I can tell there's no appropriate way to put these on it can go on either way I think the easiest way to get them started is to turn them on their side like so then you can put two of your bolts through you can hold this here and you can start the tightening process now you do not want to finish it like this because these need to be square but to get them started I found this was the easiest way so now what we have is your two extrusions on remember they're not tightened all the way down you can still move them just a little bit and that's good we're going to need to adjust those in a little while so what we have are the contents from B04-1 and then the carriage and what we need to do is put these together just like we did the other ones so we're going to put that there there's only one eccentric nut on these so you only need to do that one time so what we need to do is take the wheel go down on then a spacer and we're going to do that for another one so now you have screw or bolt wheel spacer and that's how that that goes the next one is going to go bolt wheel the little washer then eccentric nut face up and that's on like that how we install them is we take the one with the eccentric nut and that one is going to go on the top here and we take our lock washer and we secure them from the back like we did on the other one the other two wheels will go on here and here and we'll secure them all with the lock nuts from behind so these are all on eccentric nut up top the two regulars here I'm going to grab my pliers and we're going to secure these and get them tight now they're nice and secure everybody's tight now what we need is this plate here and we need bag B04 these wheels are going to be a little bit different so you can start by pushing your screws up from the bottom like so now this is going to be a little bit different than the other ones so the first couple are pretty easy we do the screws first then your spacer on both of them then the wheel like so on this one what we need to do is take your eccentric nut and put it face down so flange part down then your little spacer then the wheel then the lock nut goes on top so take the rest put your lock nuts on these two and get everything tightened and we'll go on to the next step so once they're all tightened you end up with this your eccentric nut is up on top here your regular ones are down here and we're going to flip it over like this and turn it around now we need to do the other idler so grab the little bolt here grab your bearing your of your bearing face in your spacer and then this is a tapped hole so what we do is we're actually going to screw this down into that tapped hole flip this bad boy over and you can see it's sticking out take a the small nut that comes in the kit and just secure that on the back and just make sure it's good and tight now I have the left carriage with bag B03 and I dumped it out right here what we're going to need is this piece here for the lead screw and we're going to need the four smaller there's four of them screws along with the four smaller spring washers so one by one we're going to push these screws through the back here all four of them then I think it's easier if you hold them with your finger and flip them over a little bit and put the spring washers on you're going to put them on all four so I got all four pushed through here and we're going to take and we're going to just push push this on like that out of the screw kit there was four nuts secure those nuts on each of these screws now you can see from this side it is in from the underside we're tightened on so the next thing we need is this extrusion here which is for the x-gantry and we're going to connect it to this and how that's going to work is we are going to put this in just like this and then tighten those down both sides here are cut out which is nice and what we're going to use is these two bigger screws that came in that last bag we opened so put the big spring washers on them so we're going to secure this extrusion to this carriage just like this so I'm going to start by just getting them together then we're going to grab the Allen wrench or your driver whatever you're using and you can start screwing them down in now the nice thing about this being on the outside is that we can really adjust our x-gantry a lot easier now compared to like an Ender 3 which we would have to take off the whole thing we can actually just loosen these here and adjust it what I'm going to do now is just get them to snug because there's a good chance we will need to adjust that I am flush here I'm going to start like that and I'm hoping that's straight next thing we want to do is grab a stepper motor and take that carriage you just made and push the stepper motor up through the bottom then grab the four of the small m3 by six screws and we're just going to just set the screws in we're not going to tighten these right now but just enough where it's going to hold the stepper motor up and it's not going to fall out of the carriage now what we need is another end stop the bigger mounting piece and two of those screws this is going to sit on here just like that so end stop over here and then this will be your long side here we're going to take those two screws and mount that in just like we did before so now what you got is a stepper motor here with the cabling going this way I use two of the small screws to mount it in the top here then we're going to take our end stop and we're going to put them it put it right here so we need to use m3 by 10 screws and we're going to push them through and screw it right in and it'll secure itself to the stepper motor so when you're done you'll have your end stop here and your stepper motor here the next thing we're going to do is let's get our X carriage here on the extrusion and how we're going to do that is this is how the orientation is its face backwards your eccentric nut is down here and we're going to take it and just slide it over the extrusion so what we need to do is check and see how this rolls just like we did before currently it's not rolling very good I'm going to take my wrench I am going to twist the eccentric nut until it wobbles so it's all wobbly now then I'm going to come back just step by step just until we get that wobble out the idea is you want to take the wobble out but you don't want it too tight so there's a little bit of wobble there and I'm talking just barely turning it no wobble and this thing's rolling really good next step is we're actually going to go through and get the excantree on but first we need to take this assembly and we need to make sure that it's rolling correctly so it's going to go on and it's going to be on just like this as you can see it's wobbling just like before we're going to grab our wrench we're going to grab the eccentric nut which is down in here and we're just going to tighten it ever so slightly until that wobble goes away so still a little bit of wobble wobbles almost gone and this thing is rolling really nicely now we're going to do the same thing on the right side so we're going to take that right carriage we're going to put it on and see how it's rolling as you can tell very loose just like before take your wrench and just slowly tighten it until it that wobble comes out there we go rolling real nice and there's no wobble and that takes care of our right carriage it so I took the excantree off I took the right carriage and I put the bolts and the t-nuts that are supposed to be in the right carriage on now we're going to put everything back together in just a second but first we need to get these aligned in here so in order to do that we need to use Luke's excantree rework and get this thing pretty straight so what we're going to do is work on getting this gantry all straight now so I'm going to put this side on we got it rolling good already I'm going to put the right side on here and I missed a wheel there we go it's rolling good already as well so what we need to do is is a little bit different than the Creality machines because it has these t-nuts but what we can do is we don't want to force it but we need to turn these here so everything is straight just like the Creality machines so when this is on here what we need to do is just align these so everything matches up perfectly straight here and everything rolls real nice then from the backside let's go ahead and tighten our t-nuts up just spin them so they get locked in but I'm not going to tighten them yet and now everything is rolling good remember careful I did not tighten these yet so we kind of went through and we got them straight this way and now we got everything on here and it's rolling up and down real good but I think what we need to do now is measure and just see what we got so we got 13 inches there and 13 inches there and if I lift this up I have 13 inches 13 inches and 13 inches so what I'm going to do now because I'm all straight is I'm going to take the top bar here and there it only goes in one way there's the cutouts here for the bolt heads so it'll sit on top of like this then we're going to take the four big bolts that go in the top and get them started and all I'm doing now is tightening them down I'm going to start with one I'll come over here to the other one so what we did by leaving these loose is we were able to kind of twist them to make sure they're not only straight this way but they're straight for the wheels to travel in them and that's very important we teach that in the ex-gantry rework in Luke Hatfield's help guide I've done videos on it if you go back and look up my ex-gantry rework you can actually do just about the same procedure on this machine as you can on that one I'm going to flip over to the small end of an Allen wrench because that always gets us the tightest we never want to use the long end to do this part it could strip out and a lot of times with these cheaper Allen wrenches it will strip out that ball now that we're all tightened here I want to just check it one more time so we're at right about 13 right about 13 right about 13 all the way up and down that is great because that means we're square here this is rolling pretty good there is some divots I don't like but that could just be the wheels yeah the wheels have little creases in them like seams and they're kind of bumping when I'm willing you can hear it and that's just the wheels so I'm hoping that doesn't affect our print now that we know this is structurally straight we need to go underneath here and just tighten up those two bolts that hold these up I'm going to actually turn this on its side like this just take the Allen wrench and just make sure we're good and tight now we're going to go ahead and work on the Z motor here so we need the motor and we need B07 so I dumped the bag out and the first thing we need to do is put the bolts through the top here and those will sit down in because it's recessed and on the back of that put your T nuts then we're going to take a stepper motor face with the electrical face towards you and we're going to put this spacer on like this with the T nuts towards the back so I'm going to turn that this way here's the electrical here's the mount goes on top like this T nuts in the back grab your Phillips head screwdriver and there's two screws that we're actually going to tighten this mount down into the stepper something to note when you're doing this you want to make sure that these Phillips are good and tight but be careful you don't want to strip them so this is what we have our mount is on our Phillips head are tight and we have our T nuts here now what we want to do is take our stepper motor and install it right here behind the right side so you can see this is our X gantry we're going to install the stepper motor right there grab your Allen wrench or whatever you've been using in my case I'll use this driver here and spin that around and I'm I'm going to make it snug but not all the way tight yet just until we know that we're straight when we put everything on now I want to get the coupler and put it on and there's a flat spot right here in the shaft and that's where I want to align the grub screws here so make sure you're on you don't want it all the way down you don't want it touching the o-ring at the bottom but just make sure it's on and this is aligning with that grub screw I'm going to use the long side just to get it secured then I'm going to flip it around and take the small side here and just give it a good tighten do the same thing for both the next thing you want to do is grab your lead screw here feed it down through and we're going to feed it all the way down until it hits that coupler and it needs to go all the way into that coupler but here's something that I had to change while I was doing this I was putting my lead screw down in as you can see it is in and it does go in nice but it is not supposed to hit the shaft here so I had to raise my coupler up and on the inside there's actually a little space and you want to make it just even with that space then what you want to do is when you put your lead screw in here you want to make sure that it's in get it in make sure it's not bottomed out on the shaft and then go ahead and tighten your grub screws next thing we want to do is just make sure that our shaft is straight and that we're very even between the top and the bottom otherwise what we might need to do is add some shims to pull out the motor a little bit what I prefer to do is take your Z coupler and spin this thing all the way up once I know it takes a minute so go all the way up just so it has some time to adapt I do have to say this lead screw is very straight it's actually straighter than the Creality ones I have and bring this thing back down and that will give you one good full motion test here now what we're going to do is install our extruder so grab the stepper motor that has the gear here and you want the electronics facing back so facing this way and we're going to push this up then we're going to take our extruder and that's going to go on just like this and grab the long screws these will all go down through just make sure there we go make sure they're grabbing and there'll be three of them one two and three grab your allen wrench and tighten these down do not over tighten or you'll break this plastic here so just tighten them down so they're snug and that's it now I'm tightening these down and you just want to be very careful with this one here you just want to get it just so it's snug but you do not want to over tighten if you do this extruder gear will just it'll be hard to turn and it won't function like it's supposed to now what you want to do is go to the left side of the machine and then you want to spin the chef so the flat side is this way here then take the gear push it on so one of the grub screws will be on the flat side and right now they're too tight you may have to loosen them just a little bit to get them on there we go and how you want to align this is you want to make sure that this is aligned with here because this is where your belt is going to travel through right through that extrusion tighten your two grub screws for the next part we just got this grub screw on what we need to do is push the stepper motor all the way to the right now I did notice that these actually have paper on them you can peel that paper off I did not know that before so I might pull this off and peel that paper off we're going to start by putting the next belt on so grab your next belt and you're going to start on this side so we're going to feed the belt through the left side of the carriage again teeth to teeth here and there's actually a little slot in the back that makes this one a little bit easier then we're going to secure it with our zip ties just like we did the last time so as you can see I got them secured with the zip ties here teeth to teeth that is not going anywhere and the teeth are facing up right now right here so the next step would be to bring it around here around the pulley we made here and then we need to oops so we're going to bring it around here and Jesus there we go so we need to bring it around here we need to put it in this extrusion like I'm doing here and the teeth will be faced down when you get it in that extrusion it'll slide underneath the carriage here then once you get it far enough out you can pull it like that so make sure you get all the slack out from this side and it's underneath that carriage now what we're going to do is bring the belt down and around your gear here so it'll come underneath and it'll lock in right here it'll come underneath it'll come up from the bottom then you want to pull out the slack so this is going to be a little bit more difficult there we go and we're coming up from the bottom because you always want to zip tie these teeth to teeth so you don't want to ever forget that you want to be teeth to teeth so then hold it tight bring it around the gear on the left side like we showed come up through the bottom and like that now this is pretty important there's not a lot of movement here so you need to make sure there's some good tension on your belt before you zip tie it I can already tell you there's not enough on mine so I'm going to pull it a little tighter and just and just make sure that you got a good amount of tension on there so what I did was I made sure there was decent tension here it's down around the pulley it comes up like we showed back down so it's teeth to teeth and I got a zip tie the zip tie I put on there just like we did before I got it on there loose and then I you know I tightened it in when I could get enough tension on that belt before I cut this I want to tension it and just make sure I got enough tension I don't have to cut these and start over do that what I'm going to do is go on the left side where this motor is now this is your tensioner I'm going to pull it tight make sure we got some twang I think we got enough I'm going to hold it tight and tighten this stepper motor down now I'm using the small side because a lot of times the big sides the ball ends they will strip and we don't want that to happen so just be real careful because they're small bolts and you don't want to strip the bolt or your allen wrench now we should have a good twang we can take our cutters we can go way up in here and cut off the rest of that belt I just wanted to point out a mistake I made so if you look at the last shots uh when I did the belt I actually ran it over the top of this extrusion and that's not the correct way what it does is is it runs through the bottom of the extrusion around here and then back under otherwise you're not able to to roll it it won't go because it hits that top extrusion so what I did was I had to take the loops off um if I spin this around if you see that right here there's a loop and I was able to slide that off put it where it's supposed to be running and then slide it back on and that's how I fixed it but I had it running up here and it really should be running underneath so it should run from here around your pulley under the extrusion here around the gear and then back under here that's how it should run nothing on top now what we want to do is start mounting the hot end so you're going to grab this piece here and a couple of m3 by 8 screws and we are going to go in what I'm going to do is put one of those screws in and hold it with my allen wrench and how it mounts is straight on right here so I'm going to give this thing a couple turns so I know it's going to stay then I'm going to mount the other one in and we can tighten these all the way down now we have this piece mounted and it's nice and solid so we grab the hot end here and it runs in like this and your Bowdoin coupler will come up and you want to make sure that your cables are running through that little area there then grab some m3 by 8 screws and they will screw down from the top straight into the hot end now we have all four of those installed our cables are running out the left side if we're looking at the machine now I'm going to clip the cable tie that's holding everything together here for now and I'm going to run it down the back just like this now grab your ptfe tube push it all the way down as far as it can go there we go the back it needs to go all the way into that extruder as far as it can go like that so our ptfe tube is now installed peel the protective coating off of the plate after I peeled it I put the bed mat back on I'm going to lower the hot end by hand with the z rod here with the z screw rotating the coupler and I'm going to bring it down just so the nozzle touches the bed you saw it right there ready you've got to be very careful here right there now what we want to do is take the last end stop and install it on the side of the machine right here's your coupler and this right here is your stepper motor that drives your z rod so I brought it down as you remember so it's just barely touching the surface now I'm going to take this put it into the extrusion bring it up until it clicks you can hear it and you can see it then it's going to be hard to watch from your angle but you want to spin make sure you're all the way up tighten that in with a t-nut now when you see this and you bring it down it'll stop and that's your z end stop next what we need is everything from bag b-042 or dash 2 this is going to be the top bearing and we're going to take it and press the bearing in and it goes down in and it should press nicely and mine just snapped which is okay once the bearings in take the rounded screws and screw those down into the sides what that's going to do is hold the bearing down so it does not come out now I found that these are pretty tight and you have to thread it because it's a printed part but it will go in and we're going to do that side and then in the back we're going to pop the flat screws through and put your t-nuts on like we have been doing now we're looking at the top left of the machine this is your z rod and what we need to do is put this down and go over it and how that's going to work is a t-nut is going to go between the two bolts that are here so this will go through like that and your t-nuts will sit on either side of those top extrusion bolts and then these will tighten in now if you see issues with z-banding or your z rod is not perfectly straight you can remove this and it will work just fine you don't need this in the top but tivo uh you know their instructions is to install it so that's what i'm going to do and i just want to make sure i'm going to spin this all the way back up and just make sure that it you know works it looks good we're not binding that kind of thing i prefer to spin all the way up once and then all the way down as i'm looking at it nothing is binding it feels good it's moving good i think we're good to go so we're going to start installing our wires i just wanted to point out that the hot end goes in the middle here the bed goes in the right side and they just there's only one way they can go in you push them in and you tighten them with your thumb and your finger just to make sure they're tight then we just need to look at what we have so e is going to be our extruder we know that our extruder is up here that's what this is then we have x and this is going to be our x and stop and that's going to be right here in the front and then we should have another x which will go in this one right here and then y actually runs underneath here and into the y motor down here last but not least underneath the machine i found the z end stop so we need that to come up and plug into here now you should have gotten two ribbon cables and how that works is it's pretty simple we're going to go this is exp two and exp one and these are the front monitor so we're going to start with two because it's lower i'm going to push the ribbon cable in and that's going to come over and we're going to plug it into the exp two port on our board here exp one is going to do the same thing we're going to run this and the first one on the right here is number one so that will go in and you want to be careful if you're tipping your printer over like this if you have a friend to help or or you can bring it to the side of a table that works i just wanted to show you and filming it's a little bit different so one there and then two is right next to it so this is what i came up with we have a zip tie here here here and it holds in the power around the frame of the control box holds these in and then one right here because i had to cut it to free the why now i didn't see the why end stop cable before but it was like way coiled up in here so i cut that i ran it back to the why and all i have to do now is snip that and we're dialed in underneath so i use some of the other zip ties to kind of cable manage i just kind of went down here i think i'm going to find a better way to do this but for now it's out of the way i know it's going to be sturdy and it'll hold up those cables from getting wrecked now something i did notice is over here so this is for your bed now it does right here it does have a support there but there's nowhere else for this to really get tied to i was a little bit nervous but it doesn't come far enough to catch anything forward so i think we're good next thing we need to do is bring our full x-gantry almost all the way up and we teach this in lukehead fields help guide in my x-gantry rework in one of my videos but we want to make sure that we're level here i know we did a lot to make this structurally level and square but we need to verify it so take a ruler and put it up on the right side and i'm at about 80 millimeters i'm actually going to adjust it some exactly at 80 millimeters and that way it's easier to read right there 80 millimeters on this side i'm going to put this in the same spot on this side and see where we're at well i'm not at 80 millimeters i'm actually about three millimeters off what we need to do is adjust the x-gantry because this side is slightly lower than this side so how we're going to do that is we're going to loosen these two here just a little bit and i don't think oh maybe i kept it so earlier i didn't tighten these all the way in yet and i think i got it enough so let's go see where we're at here let's bring this down to 80 exactly 80 to the top extrusion 80 millimeters and man that's close 80 millimeters so now when you get it straight and you want it straight to the top extrusion you don't want it straight to the bottom you don't want it straight to the ground you want it straight to this top extrusion and that's exactly what we teach in our other videos and now i'm going to take the small side of this allen wrench and i'm just going to dial this in tighten it in make sure it's good and tight so it doesn't move on us and we should be good so i'm just going to bring it down and bring it back up a little bit and we're going to check this thing again we're going to stick with our 80 millimeter line because that's easy 80 millimeters there 80 millimeters there we are dead on and that's exactly what you want that means this is going to float perfectly level across here every time bring your nozzle down almost all the way and make sure it's going to reach the end of the bed so our stops a little bit short here so we're going to have to adjust it if we pull the bed forward we get all the way very to the edge so this stops just short and the way to adjust that is you have to adjust your tensioner and you have to adjust your motor and you got to slide them just a little bit with each other and then tighten your belts up and check it again once you get that perfect where it'll touch pretty much the edge of both then you're good to go but just make sure because you don't want to limit your build space here or the machine might think it's a little bit off-center if it's not touching you know the edges of the plate i got it plugged in and what we want to do is turn it on and just make sure everything comes on okay i'm going to raise up the x gantry here i'm going to flip it on now and we're going to hope for no smoke so there's our screen it's on it is showing just about room temperature here so the first thing i want to do is make sure we're uh we're going back and forth i'm going to go to prepare move axis we'll do x first let's just do one millimeter to make sure and as as i turn i do see it's moving and you can see it here that and you can see it here with the values going up and down if i zoom back out and i come back up you can watch it so that's good now we'll go back to we'll go to y we'll go to one millimeter and it looks like we're moving it doesn't know where home yet is so that's why it's not moving a lot but that's okay it's moving we'll go to z one so we are good there so now what i want to do is test the homing i want to test all of our end stops so what we're going to do is go to prepare and we're going to go to home x and that worked now it's home y y is not working don't forget if you do move uh if you do move the idler and that motor to make your bed more center you have to move your y axis as well so i turned off the printer and i turned it back on and like i was saying uh you have to make sure that you reset the y end stop when you adjust everything like we talked about before so now let's bring this forward we'll go to prepare home y perfect now we're home now we want to home z and this is a touchy one because you want to make sure you don't crash the bed so the first time i'm going to do this i'm actually going to hit it with my finger just to make sure so we'll hit this button and i'm going to do this so now we know that end stop is working which is great that way it's not going to go crashing into the bed so now if i do an auto home it's going to home all three and come on down just like this perfect next thing we want to do is check out that everything heats up okay so i'm going to go to control temperature nozzle and we're just going to give it i don't know 100 degrees uh well let's go up to 200 why not i got everything warmed up the hot end is working the heat bed is coming on as well which is good um so i think we are good to go here i like it we auto homed we got heat um and we are rocking and rolling so i went to cool down we got it going i put the memory card in and the front is over here the back is over here so it goes in facing this way and you just push it straight in it's a full size card once this gets cooled down i think we're really good to go the next steps are just to do a do a manual bed leveling i have a video in my description in my playlist there go look forward it's the same thing with this as it is the ender three you're going to do all four corners and do it a couple times the paper method make sure you put your obviously make sure you put your bed mat on there you want to make sure you're leveling it with the right stuff and what you're going to need to do after you get the bed leveled and set go ahead and print a test i'll get some going and i'll do a follow-up video with the def with the test prints and everything but like i said level it up load some filament and let's get this thing printing so i did notice something so i was trying to figure out why they didn't give us any bed clips and the reason for that is is this build surface actually sticks down to the bed we need to stick it down so i looked over and we have the 3m here so we need to actually put the surface down via stick so we're going to peel off one corner just about this much then what we're going to do is we're going to line it up just so everything's good everything is good and straight and we're going to press down on this corner right here where we pulled that adhesive protection back and we're going to lift up we're going to slowly pull out a little bit and just start working it in go back and forth back and forth and just keep pulling a little bit more and a little bit more push it you know towards the front first you'll get rid of those bubbles push it down make sure it's good grab a little more and just keep working it in until you get all the way to the end so once you get to the end just push everything out like that then what you can do is grab your id a credit card something plastic and then you can try to work any bubbles that you got out you know that you see out try to get that done while you're going out i missed this one because i was talking but i am going to try to get it all the way out and that's how you put the bed on there all right the build is done as you can see i got it completely built and there's a little bit of different things going on here so i wanted to get this thing printing so i put the glass on there so it'll be a little more level i am going to go back and level it out with some blue tape underneath and make that center structurally sound we'll say but at least i got that finished so we could do some test prints that brings me to the second issue leveling the bed for me was pretty difficult mostly because when you turn the bed leveling knobs the screws were turning with them so i was having a real hard time with dialing them in because the screws were just turning around the original bed mat they took away those holes that were on the early models in the corners because people were complaining that you lose print surface which is true but now the problem is you can't level your bed without those screws spinning so what i had to do is actually grab a needle nose players hold the bottom and spin you know your knob so i held the screw on the bottom and spun it and i got it leveled that way other grape i have is the printers don't come with a filament holder so you have to print one luckily i have this one here which i've printed for some of my other machines you can see i just keep a piece of blue tape on there in case i need it but basically it sits on there and i can put it pretty much anywhere and i was able to use that that brings me to the third thing i actually had an issue where the screen was beeping like you were pressing the button it was like going beep beep beep beep and it was going through the menus like someone was pressing the button and turning the knob i wasn't touching it so what i had to do to fix that problem was take both the monitor cables off rotate them and push them back into the board in the back of the display and make sure they were securely tightened which means i had to clip all my zip ties that i did and i'll have to redo those too but if you see that issue where your screen is going beep beep beep beep and it's it's like you're clicking that button but you're not touching it um pull the two monitor cables off both ends flip them around and reseat them really nicely and just make sure you're good there other than that you know what i think this thing is pretty structurally sound if you long as you build it square like we talked about and i really think it's going to be a great printer with that being said i hope you learned something today and as always keep printing thank you so much for watching this video if you like it give me that big thumbs up click that subscribe button right here and as always if you want to see more great videos come and click the bell right over here this took about two hours to build but i know you can do it just make sure you're following the directions correct correctly and make sure you get it nice and square like we did later