 We just cut this 16 inch door around in a 12 inch laser bed and we'll show you how we did it right now. What is up? A welcome back. Do you like to do it? Build it or make it? So do we. And we have a new video each week. So remember to like, comment, subscribe, and hit that bell to be notified of our new videos. This week, we're taking our OmTek Polo Laser to the limit. Have you ever wanted to make a 16 inch door around but have a 12 by 20 laser bed and you think to yourself, I can't make that? We're going to show you how we use light burn in our Polo Laser to cut a 16 inch round out of quarter inch MDF. Step one, we're going to pull an evil Coneval into a ramp test. We're going to find the optimal or best height for a laser lens using a project board and two pieces of scrap MDF. We're going to create a ramp inside the laser. Let's start by getting a camera capture of our cutting area. We're going to select the laser lid camera, then let's grab a screen. Well, maybe I should close the lid. Then we'll grab a screen capture. Now I'm going to draw a line using the pen tool. I'm going to click, hold shift, it'll snap it vertical, snap it horizontal. Then I'll click, let's hit escape. That'll kill it and go back to the selection tool. I'm going to grab this. Let's go back to our cut area. I'm going to make this red. I like red for cuts, so we're going to use red. We're going to use five millimeters for speed and 50 power. Just kind of guessing. I'm just looking at focal height right now or focal point focus height. Let's move this up to the edge. We're going to move this line up to the edge. I want to be able to use this material, but I want to be able to run a ramp test on this material, so I'm just trying to catch the edge. Now let's hit start. The focal height is the distance between the bottom of your lens to the top of your material, and that distance changes with the thickness of your material. So if you change the thickness of materials, then you're going to change that focal height. That is your z-axis and you'll adjust that using this ramp test. You'll see we'll start at the top of the ramp. Your line will be thicker. It'll get thinner where it's cutting through the cleanest and then it'll get thicker again because it's too far away. We're going to find the thinnest, cleanest part of this line and we're going to circle it using a pencil. That is where we're going to set our focal point to. We're going to move the laser head back to the pencil marks. Then I'm going to use this tiny little clear triangle that came in our toolbox and I'm going to put this in the gap. I'm going to mark where the center of that laser head falls on this clear little triangle and that is our focus height. Now I can remove these two little pieces of scrap MDF and lay the project board flat. I can then put the triangle back on the material and lower that z-axis or lower the laser head until it hits that mark. And now our focal height is set. We are ready to go. Step two, we're going to do a speed and power test. But with the laser. The purpose of the speed and power test is to know exactly what speed, what power you need to use to cut through this material that we've just measured. And you want to use the least amount of power to get through the material. Now we're going to use this material test cut card to find our optimal speed and power settings. I'm just going to move this up in the corner and we're going to hit start. This should tell us exactly what our speed and power is for this material. Each of these circles that are being cut out has a different speed and a different power. All of the ones on the left side are at a five millimeter using a different power and it goes up to a 15 millimeter per second using those same powers. All right. We have our card all cut out. It looks like the best place where it went through the cleanest was probably five millimeter per second at 50% power. Step three, time to make our cuts. We're going to jump over into light burn and we're going to import our SVG file. All right. Inside light burn. We're just going to start by importing our SVG. Don't click. Now you can see this is bigger than my cut area. I can break up most of this, but the backer is definitely bigger than my cut area. So I'm going to break this into two pieces. So to do that, I'm going to go get a puzzle piece that I have my puzzle piece. Zoom in a little bit. I want my little puzzle pieces here to land underneath the ribbon. So I'm going to drag it or I think it'll land under the ribbon. Let's squish this a little bit. Squish it up. So everything lands inside that little ribbon. All right. I'm going to select both the backer and the puzzle piece copy control C paste control V. I'm going to ungroup this one. See how my scoremarks are grouped with my backer? I'm going to ungroup this. I'm going to select the backer piece, just the backer, the cut file, the cut piece, and then the puzzle piece. Then I'm going to go over here to subtract Pooly and subtract. So this is going to take the piece from the top. See now I have little puzzle pieces cut in there. I'm going to do something similar over here on this one. I'm going to ungroup it. I'm going to select the backer and then my puzzle piece and then down here. I'm going to use intersect. This will again do a different type of cut, but it's going to cut the bottom piece out. So now I have two puzzle pieces. I don't need the scoremarks or the ribbon holes on this side. So I'll delete these to make sure they fit like a nice tight snug puzzle piece. I'm going to select both the bottom of the backer and the top of the backer. I'm going to give it another color. We'll say color number 10 and inside color number 10. I'm going to double click color number 10 and inside here, I'm going to add a little offset curving. So I'm just going to give it two clicks up. So it's 0.00197. That's my offset. That's how much it's going to add to the outside outwards of my cut. This should help keep it nice and snug. And for our power settings, anything. Well, let me group this first. Let me group. Now let's set our power settings. My speed is 250 millimeters a second and my power is going to be 25. This is my score. My cut according to my little cut chart here, according to my little test cuts, it looks like it will go through nice and clean at five millimeters a second and 50% power. I'm going to do this for number 10. Also, it's going to be five millimeters per second and 50 power. Okay. All right. Let's frame this out. You notice I have this checked cut selected graphics. So even though the bottom is on the cut area, I don't have it selected. It doesn't have a little marquee around it. It won't get picked up in the cut. So let me frame this and then we'll cut it. All right. The first part came out great. Now it's time to cut the bottom half. So we'll just select both of these. We'll move the bottom half up. We'll select this will hit frame. And then we'll cut it. I went ahead and cut two puzzle pieces, one with curving and one without. So this one here is without curving. You'll see that it goes together very easily and it's got a lot of play. But even without the curving once we get it put back together here. Yeah. You know, it'll work. It's a little wiggly. You're going to glue a center banner across here, but the pressure is on the puzzle pieces. So it actually hangs in those grooves. So it'll work without the curving, but with the curving, it's a little bit tighter. It actually goes together with a little bit of squeak. And you'll notice it's not as flimsy, a little bit tighter. So if you glue the banner across here, I think it'll really hold pretty well. I don't think you'll even notice once it's glued that it is a puzzle piece. Did you know you could get all of our files behind the scene content and even a Kim and Garrett After Dark podcast, as well as monthly zoom calls, access to a secret Facebook group, and we'll even send you one of these fancy t-shirts all for $20 a month. It's the best way to support this channel. So join us over at patreon.com. Step four. Now we paint. We're just going to paint our backer and all of our little pieces using these foam rollers. Quick paint. Quick paint. Together with a little bit of star bond super glue. We're just going to work from the bottom up. Puzzle piece is still in place. I painted it that way. Using the score marks. The great thing about these files is they have score marks that do show you where to place your items so you don't have anything that's not centered perfectly. There's our beautiful sign with the puzzle piece in the back with the puzzle piece in the back. You'd never know. You'd never know. It's pretty sturdy. It's brand new design. So this is the first time we're showing you guys this design. Took no time at all and we are out of time. So if you're not going to join us for the patron after show, we will see you next Friday where we'll do a building to make it again. Oh, and don't forget to catch us live every Tuesday. We do something new. Have a little chat. And balance some signs. That's it.