 What's up guys welcome to the vlog so today what we're going to be focusing on is how to cut a graduation using horizontal partings and also Vertical partings to get your end result and why you would want to use both also as a bonus I'm going to throw in some of the dry detail work that I do at the end Hope you guys enjoy the video. Let me know in the comments below hit that subscribe button and here we go Okay, so I'm gonna start off. I'm gonna have Carly just kind of brush through the mannequin Using the brush vertically. So this is the ergo paddle brush Using that brush vertically helps detangle the hair and then I go in with the palmatial neuro prime This is a blow blowout primer basically and it's a heat protectant So I put that throughout the hair then I go in with my invisible wear memory shaper That is a medium hold gel like product The thing the reason I like using this on a haircut is it helps keep my sections clean And then also putting it in prior to the haircut helps me get even Saturation throughout the hair as I go through and cut it and then when I go to blow a dry I get the hold and shine that I'm looking for so the last thing We're not the last thing we're gonna get into the sectioning So the sectioning for this haircut is a center parting and then we go straight down center back Then I go in and create almost like a triangle section in the very front The reason I like creating that triangle is because when you're cutting a bob It's all about the natural fall to me So when that triangle section of hair actually is hair that wants to fall forward So I separate it from the rest of the hair that wants to fall on to the side So I hope that makes sense to you guys, but we will get into that more Towards the end of the cut when we actually cut that section now the next two sections that I create are both on the side of the head and Basically what I'm doing is Those side panels want to fall straight down to the side So I section them away sectioning is so important when you're going through a haircut It's not about creating fun shapes and all of that every section that you make in a haircut should have a purpose So I go through those are two vertical rectangular panels that want to fall straight down and we're gonna use that later in the cut Okay, so now we're gonna go straight down center back Basically separating those two sides then I go straight across the occipital bone to right behind the ear now We're gonna be doing a horizontal Bob So I want to work with horizontal lines as I go through and section it so I'm gonna do that on both sides I also like to work back and forth With when I cut a bob because I like to make sure that both sides are balanced Some people like to cut just one side then move to the opposite side I like to go both at the same time And then now what you're gonna see is I do a little tap with the scissor which kind of Bevels the hair in and it shows me where the hair is gonna sit best right at the nape of the neck I'm using the DB 20 scissor from Mizetani. It's one of my favorite scissors. It's got a ball bearing screw nano powder metal steel You get a really consistent cut consistent line when you use it. It's a really powerful scissor But it's also available on freeselineeducation.com So I go through and I cut my baseline now It's really important to make sure that you fine-tune that line and make it exactly the way that you want it Before you move on to the rest make sure it's balanced because if it's not you're starting off already losing When you're cutting a bob, so I want to make sure that it's nice and even also notice that I'm going in horizontally So I want to talk about that a little bit a lot of people don't cut bobs horizontally And what I hear in a lot of classes that they don't cut bobs horizontally because they feel like that stacks it up too Much it gets too heavy Well, the reason that that happens and the reason I'm not gonna do this entire cut horizontally is because once you get Above the occipital bone and you're cutting horizontally your hand tends to want to sit lower on the head Okay, so another thing that I want you guys to pay attention to is as I over direct the hair back when it gets to the corner You'll see that there's a little bit of a disconnection that disconnection I want to happen because I'm over directing the hair back passing where you would think would be the guideline where a lot of People kind of tuck their hand in but that's how you end up with a hole So I like to over direct everything back create that disconnection then go in and fine-tune the line again Following that guideline that we created from the beginning That's just a technique that I like to do it saves me from ever having a hole in the haircut And it just pushes that a little bit of extra weight where it would be a little bit weaker That I can go in and detail after I cut it So now I go in take another section I move about an inch up the head shape Half inch if they have high density and then I continue taking horizontal panels I'm working my way all the way up the head until I get to the low crown Then I'm going to switch to vertical partings So just taking a little bit of the new hair a lot of the old hair Just bring that into my hand Finding a clean guideline and again creating that square back So just a straight line in the back which creates that disconnection behind the ear Which you can see as I drop it right there, but then I'll go in and fine-tune it and cut my line afterwards So horizontal section see the elevation coming off if you if you notice where 90 degrees would be coming off of that section I'm at about 45 degrees. That's a nice medium graduation So that's the consistency that I want throughout this entire cut Extra over direction the head shape around the ear kind of peels in so you get that extra over direction Which creates that disconnection at the bottom then I'm going to go through and I'm going to fine-tune it also notice That I had a little small hair that was missed in that part of the cut So I go back and I cut it the exact same way I don't just chop off that piece of hair when I see it fall down and now I clean off that Disconnection gives me a nice thick feeling right behind the ear and you can see that we're creating a very nice balanced shape So now I want to break up this section But I'm going to start working vertically and the reason I want to work vertically is because if I continued to work Up the head shape horizontally my hand would want to fall down and if my hand drops my elevation drops And then I end up with too heavy of a bob in the end result So I go in vertically because that allows me to really focus on The weight distribution in the vertical part of the haircut. So how much do I want to stack this bob up? How light do I want it to be do I want it to be layered do I want it to be more graduated? I can really control that now the hard part becomes Controlling your over direction. So as I take each vertical parting I want to make sure it's coming straight back from the head just like I was doing when I was cutting it horizontally So I still continue to get the same exact shape Using the bottom part of the haircut as my guideline So now you'll see that I I kind of create my own line because I still don't want to follow that curve down So I still create a disconnection that I can go in and then clean off later on So continuing down center back vertical parting you can see that the very top part of that section is at about zero degrees So right where my fingertips are but then everything from below my fingertips is definitely at a higher elevation So you get a nice light feel but then you get that a little bit of a bevel the heaviness that kind of sits right at The top of the occipital bone. That's where we want it to to live for this haircut really balances the head shape You can see that you can see my guide very cleanly throughout That's very important. So make sure you're not taking too thick of sections as you work your way through and Everything is coming straight back. I like to pretend like I'm sitting in a box So nothing goes outside that box that helps allows me to create a square shape in the haircut And then I go through and I clean off that line that disconnection that we created now If you wanted to create more of a triangular feel to the haircut Then you could continue to extend that over direction back and then grow the length into the front But I'm not looking to create a square or a triangular graduation in this particular haircut So now one thing you're gonna notice that I switch up is the fact that my fingers are now pointing down I've talked about this many times and many videos But those of you that are watching for the first time the reason you want to do that is you always want to be combing the new Hair to the guideline Whether I've said that a hundred times or not and you've heard it a hundred times It's that important because any time you're inconsistent with how you comb the hair So if I comb the hair one way And I'm taking the new hair to the guide over and over again on one side And then I switch to the opposite side and now I'm combing the guide to the new hair Stretching the guide from where it wants to be where it is guiding me to I'm moving that and shortening the guide So then I end up with one side of my bob shorter than the other So it's really important to make sure that you're always combing consistently So with pointing my fingers down it forces me to then comb the hair towards the inside But doing everything exactly the same following the guide Initially from the center So what we had cut previously and then I worked my way through to the to the behind the ear Go through and I check horizontally just to make sure that my line looks good It should look square in the back It shouldn't have any angle to it when you pull it out if it does then you got to go back through and cut it You don't want to just cut that top portion that you check horizontally because then you're not cutting the rest It's underneath it so you want to make sure if you're Your cross-check your horizontal check on this particular part of the haircut if it doesn't line up Then you got to go back through vertically and fix it. All right, just finishing up this side Also notice how I comb the old hair out of the way So I'll take a little bit of my guide push the rest of it out of the way It's just to keep everything nice and clean You know, I'm not the cleanest person in most things but with this with haircutting I like to keep it very clean and structured that gives me the best result Keeping it nice and organized. You can see how that's all coming together To me cutting a bob isn't a difficult thing what makes it difficult is just not being consistent So now I'm going through I'm combing everything down still no tension On the haircut because I want to cut that line first then I'm going to go through and I'm going to work horizontally again Across and I just want to do a slight elevation now We're working on pretty much a flat surface until we get to the bridal ridge So a slight over direction keeps it at about a 45 degree angle gives me a nice soft bevel right around the chin line or the the jawbone So as I'm kind of getting that to bevel around it gives a nice shape to the haircut as well as I work up the head shape you'll notice my elevation goes up just a little bit more. That's just to keep a consistent Flow to the elevation to that bell bevel on the haircut So you can see that's pretty much the end result of the right hand side now You can see the consistency in it. You can see that it follows that jawline really well I like this for anybody with like kind of an oval shaped face anybody that has more of a rounded face I like to drop it just below the jawline maybe an inch below it because it helps elongate the face a bit Also somebody that has a square face works really well to drop it a little bit below as well So same thing on this side 45 degree elevation Working my way up the side of the head and notice that Every time I move up the head shape my elevation is shifting So now it's a higher than it was when I first started Again, just to balance that weight distribution Now I go through and just check it vertically To make sure that I have that the elevation I'm looking for you can see nice 45 degree angle when we look at it vertically So I comb all of that out clean it up and then we'll be ready to move on to the next step So now here's a quick tip video all in itself for you guys what I want to do is I'm gonna cut the front of this haircut She's gonna wear it straight down the center So what I want to do is build a heavy center point and be able to have a nice flow backwards Within this haircut so she could flip it one way or the other So what I did was I took a guideline from the parietal ridge so I find that there now I'm gonna create basically a stationary guide that connects it to the one side. I Take diagonal forward partings all the way across that fringe area that triangle that we created and I cut it right at that Stationary guide work my way all the way through same elevation Same everything then what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna crisscross it I'm gonna go to the opposite side and do the exact same thing So you can see my elevation doesn't change still cutting palm to palm now That's the angle that we've created on the one side now We're gonna go back create the same exact thing which will make the heaviest point in the very center So still diagonal forward parting over directing it to a stationary guide and working my way through Also balances both sides because you're taking a guide from each side and then you're connecting the whole thing together So you can see how the heaviest point is right in the center So when she brushes it back, she's gonna wear it down the center But she could flip it from side to side, but it gives it a nice flow and a nice even feel to the very front So now we're gonna use the palmatril neuro halo blow dryer This is a really cool blow dryer because it has a fully digital top Which has all the heat settings the the airflow setting the ion settings and you can adjust everything through it It's also got a magnetic air filter in the very back of the blow dryer And it gives you an alert when it needs to be clean So you just pop that magnetic filter off clean it up and you're good to go That's probably the biggest destroyer of a blow dryer is not keeping it clean This blow dryer makes it nice and easy. So I'm using my ergo paddle brush also available on free salon education comm I'm flat wrapping it around then I'm gonna go in with the new neuro halo iron to smooth out the Style then I'm gonna go into a little bit of detail work dry in this haircut as well So just going through this thing heats up super fast. It's got titanium plates. It's a really cool digital The inside is all digital. So that's a really cool feature as well. Everything's touch-based. So really like that iron now I go through I'm using again my DB 20 scissor and I'm working the perimeter line of the haircut so This I already cut wet so I have a pretty good line to start with so I just want to fine-tune that line going through and Detailing it now I think a lot of people cut corners on this kind of stuff and they don't do with all this detail work The detail work at the end of a bob is the most important thing. It's what puts the stamp on your haircuts What makes it unique so definitely make sure that that's a focus of yours in the salon Make time for that. So this is the finished style. You can see it sits right at that jaw line It's got a nice clean line to it really love this cut Let me know if you love it in the comments below also anything you'd like to see in the future And if you made it this far in the video, then definitely let me know that as well Hit that subscribe button and I will see you guys on the next video. Thanks so much All right guys like always if you liked the video then make sure you hit that like button Share this video with all of your friends out there And if you're looking to buy some new hairdressing tools go to free salon Education comm you can get Mizutani scissors Ys part combs clips brushes Everything that you need to be a professional hairdresser. You can get on free salon education comm Thank you guys so much for watching and I'll see you on the next video