 Hello everybody and welcome back to another episode of Retro Tech and today We're jumping back into another restoration Slash repair video this time with yet another Sony PVM 2030 now This one is on the video screen right behind me and it was Quite a mess. It was definitely bad. It showed up to me. It did not start at all So let's just go ahead now and start rolling this footage And I'll start to talk to you a little bit more about this sir this PVM as we get into this repair And then I will get in and have some other things to show you about it Especially this direct repair because it was pretty intense First thing first like I said I tested this one. I first got it and it does not start whatsoever so No power response really at all so we're gonna go and take it apart now and so that's what you'll see me doing now on the screen and as I take it apart just remember that there are five screws in the back of this monitor and Four on this two on each side and they're pretty easy to get to But just remember there are four on the sides And then there's one in the back just below this control panel You saw me pull out here and then all you've got to do is slip that shell right off there Avoid your power cable and this is a really cool feature that I mentioned last time on these monitors We went through real quickly there But that are these little special feet right here that you could put down to help you service this monitor Rather than just let it lean over and tip onto its backside. So it's again a real nice feature on this But the first thing I'm going to be looking at on this monitor is the power supply So you saw another video where I went in and recapped the power supply as well as the other board on the last 2030 repair from last month this monitor was from that same load so it was traded to me for the repair services on the one you saw in the video and So I wanted to get this one, you know working again But what I try to tell people when it comes to this 2030 is sometimes you're gonna need two monitors to get one good one Especially if one of them doesn't already start like the case is with this one So it seemed like we were able to get two monitors put together and just make one good one out of it Again, I need to get in here on this monitor and get the old power supply out and to do that You're gonna have to take nearly all these boards off Open the monitor up give yourself some breathing room and then this is our power supply unit So I'll try to make myself a little bit less In the picture right during this part But this is our power supply unit right in here that we're gonna be pulling now this Power supply board is actually split in two so the first one that we're actually just swapping out is this board right here inside this large heat sink and The other board is right next to it and it's got some other large capacitors as well some other Electronics and that's where a lot of the other boards are going into with connectors to get powered So this is the board we're taking out Let me roll that again. So it's just got to be taken out by removing all the connectors There's one and just about every board except for the neck board here and then the input board, which is out of the way Okay, so this is after I swapped out that Initial power supply that you just saw I just swapped in one right here. This one has been rebuilt and hoping that just this single board will be what's causing the issue on this monitor but To get this back in its place. I'll move myself again out of the picture and To get my power supply back in I just wanted you to see this one side This this is the center of the monitor frame right here And you have to slip it into these little inlets right here to there's one on the front And then the backside towards the tube and that slips in and then you've got a couple of spots in here to Put some screws in and then a little ground tray and then you could go in and just put everything back together especially this video input board now there are a ton of Connectors and I've gone over this path. There are tons of connectors that are Going to be connected to not only this video input board, but all the boards inside there So just make sure that you remember where each one came out of and each one goes back into a lot of these Especially on this board will only fit in one specific spot but the other the real problem is when you get into the other boards and you got to make sure that You have all those connectors in the right spot now. I've gone through in the past and I've Basically take it to Sharpie and written down, you know There's a there's a point on the boards that tells you what the connection goes to so now as I've talked my way through this repair We're going to be power testing it with the new power supplies So that's all we've done so far is we take it in apart and we swapped out that one power supply with the rebuilt power supply And then we'll go in here and that's what we're going to do next is power test it so I Powered it on initially there and then I plug it in but nothing same response So the issue is has got to be with that secondary power supply I want to zoom in real quickly and show you the only thing I'm getting is When I push the power button You'll notice quickly it'll the standby light comes on really quickly and then it immediately goes out so now I Changed the second power board. That's the smaller one. I mentioned to you earlier I changed that out from a PVM that I had that was another 2030 that was in my as a parts model, so it had a good tube. It had a good Power supply board, but the deflection board was completely ruined on it it was cracked in many places and this was one that I've had for like four or five years just sitting around Doing nothing. So we're going to take the power supply board from it. All right guys Put it into this other monitor With this 2030 I've actually gotten it powered on and the way I did that was I swapped out the entire power supply from another 2030 that was not working and it actually fired up on this one So there's something that's failing in those power supplies, which maybe we'll talk about later The colors are extremely washed Out and it's not really sharp at all now Just as a video, but it should be a little sharper and the colors should look better I've tried to adjust them and the blue seems to be like weaker and so What I'm gonna do is I'm gonna try to swap it over to that other television tube or I'm sorry CRT tube I'm afraid that even like a recap which this board desperately needs Especially the geometry board. I'm afraid that even after a recap this tube is not gonna look as good Now the other thing is is when you started it up originally it won't do it now most likely but if you start the tube up Initially it'll turn red and throbby and look really funky for a little while So that's pretty much a sign that it's it's really like dying and I'd hate to go to all that effort and not have the good tube so we're gonna try to swap to again switch the Good boards from this one into this one and see if the tube looks better. This is a backside view of these monitors This is the one. This is the one that is working, but the screen is just Washed out and really ugly and then I've got my other set up here To add The important boards which are gonna be the two power supply boards in the bottom and then the main Deflection board because that was the one that was really messed up on this one was the main deflection board But the tube looks good and it did work at one point And I don't remember the tube being that ugly is not nearly as ugly as this one So we're gonna try to get that over here and then See how it looks All right guys, so I hope that that's not too confusing But basically what I need to do is take all the good boards from our good Monitor and it's gonna be easier for me to take the boards that are good from this monitor and put them into The other CRT as opposed to me taking the tube and swapping it out into this frame Because to do that I'd have to take the whole monitor apart so again, I'm going to move the Main chassis which is right here in the picture and then I'm also gonna move Those two power supply boards on the bottom back into the other monitor and we'll see how it comes out now what I've done here is I've opened up this board and You'll notice there are the flyback is actually up here on the right-hand side of the picture and There's a little cable going from the flyback a little black cable that goes first off the red cable Sorry goes over to this box and that's one of the things we need to move out of the way So the red cable let's go. Let's talk about this again The red cable on the black at the back of this flyback goes over here into this Little device here, and I can never remember what it's called But it's secured by a screw which I'm about to point out right here And then a smaller screw over here under it that you cannot see But those are the two screws that are holding it into place. They're just phillips head screws So I need to remove those so I could safely get this little contraption out of here because it's tied in again to the flyback and It won't you know, it won't move without it So now I need to discharge the crt, of course, so you can just watch me do this and remember Uh to take your time if you've done if you're doing this, you know This is something that you have to do when nearly every one of these repairs Not all of them, but if you do it safely Then you'll be okay, but I did have to discharge this one again I've got my discharge tool here and I don't recommend using two hands What I'm trying to do is show you, you know a little bit closer view in here Of what I'm trying to do so this is my Discharge tool, which is nothing more than a high quality screwdriver flathead Really large and then it's got a plastic handle and I've taped a piece of an extension cord that has large gauge Copper wire in it. So one end is taped with electrical tape to This metal and twisted around it and then taped with the electrical tape And then the other end of that cable goes down to my chassis, which I've shown you Uh a couple seconds ago the actual frame on there that metal part And so that if there's any electricity in there, it'll go through my Little tool here and it trickle down to the frame and then ground out throughout the monitor And I get this question a lot. I don't know understand why but You do not want to have your monitor plugged in When you discharge it, okay, never do that And if you're concerned about this make sure that you give your monitor a lot of time or your television a lot of time To self discharge a lot of times they will self discharge But again, you're taking that tool you're moving this anode rubber cap out of the way because it's non-conductive And it should be sealed there with some jelly, which we'll talk about later But then you want to take that little end of that screwdriver and just tap the metal and then After you tap it you kind of push it a little bit and it's it compresses It's like a little compression tool that you push it and it'll compress and then release off the anode cap the release from the back of the tube and you can go in and do what i'm doing here and Discharge both the cap as well as The tube itself again, so now that's all discharged and we're going to take care of this other cable going into our flyback And that goes from the flyback over To the neck board and you really can just be a little forceful and pull that right out of there It's meant to come off And then we'll take the rest of this board out now Obviously, I've already disconnected all the connection points on the board with the little molex connectors and such The only thing holding it in at this point are the two hinges that are plastic that you can compress With a pair of pliers Just squeeze them together and that'll come right out of there And the next thing that I did not mention is you want to make sure that you take the two screws out of this Plate up here just so you can get it out of the way It is the stereo audio amp for the monitor and it has two screws holding it in the board onto the top You can literally pull it and move it completely out of the way And just so it doesn't interfere with any of that that's what I did before all this So I did not show you that I'm sorry So just got to get that out of the way and then we'll want to get of course the rest of the flyback contraption Out and there is one cable that goes from that flyback contraption Into uh one of the circuit boards and it travels all the way across the monitor to do that And so you really do have to Get in there and and get that you know safely out Don't just try to rip that thing out now, but I you can't read this completely, but I moved both the power boards and the Other board now into the donor monitor. Well actually just the power board. So we're just at the power board section right now And that's what they look like in there But that's the secondary board right here and then there's the main power supply again inside that So those now are good tested from prior usage on this monitor. That's what you originally came from and then the Next step is going to be to add the main chassis with the flyback board on it and that We'll just go back into the slots And then you'll want to just reinsert everything the way that you took it out to begin with So it's just I mean a lot of this stuff can be tearing things down putting them back together And hopefully by piecing all these things together, we'll get one really good monitor out of these two Now that's again like another big risk when you buy or go after A crt that does not Want to start up and just in case you're wondering. I'm sorry to not mention I'm just going back here and reconnecting everything all the little connections so we can get a good test run But if you can't see if a crt works then you really don't know If it doesn't power on you can't tell the tube condition and You know, that'd be one of the worst things is to actually run into a Um and buy a crt and pay really any kind of quality money for it If you don't know what condition the tube actually is and don't know that it doesn't have either one color out Or like the tube that was in the other frame for this one. It was extremely blurry not sharp at all and Very robby like you know had the constant Waviness through the screen so That uh, hope this will hopefully clear that up now everything's put back together The last thing's going to be the color board. We're going to add the dielectric grease to the adode area This is the grease that I said we'd talk about From earlier it's going to go on the back here of the tube itself around the anode cap And then we'll also put some extra on the anode cap itself on the inside And that will Really limit any kind of You know Little fuzzy burning noise That you might get or crackling That where dust could get into the back of this anode cap over time or sneak sneak in there And then as the electricity goes in there, it you know burns that zaps those dust particles and makes a Sound Then the last thing we're going to do after we get the anode cap in is we're going to reapply the board here That's the stereo audio amp. I was telling you about that's where it goes right back on top and then We're going to be pretty much ready for our test run. So let's Roll that beautiful CRT footage and see if we could get some life out of CRT now You could tell I've already got all my lights are coming on now, which did not happen earlier So that's good. Uh, just means everything moved over here correctly and Here's a tube that has not been energized in three four or five years That's what it looked like to begin with and it kind of freaked me out and I started to worry I was like, whoa, man. What did I do? I forgot about something And then I realized and remembered There's a button on here that is very helpful for that. That's our lovely degauss button. Just go back here push it Once should make a big bang And then maybe another time or two after that wait a couple minutes And that literally cleared up all that purity at the corners. You saw it went from the ugly red Hue and pinkish hue in the corners to cleared up now I just wanted to show a little bit of play footage here to end this out Show this how Much better this tube looked. It was definitely the right call to switch over into this frame but The chassis has All bad caps on it. I mean, there's all kinds of bad caps because the I can watch The monitor go out of calibration as I sit and look at it the pin cushion The corners start to pin cushion and other things happen So that's what I'm going to have to do next. I'm going to have to go in and of course replace all the capacitors on that main board and then Recalibrate after that probably have to do some yoke adjustment after that as well as the convergence rings So this is a very archaic. I try to I try to bring this up. This is a very archaic monitor And there are still apparently a lot of these are showing up because I get questions about them all the time just remember They're not worth much if they're not tested and in good condition and the reason being again is like you saw on this one A lot of times there's some kind of issue going on in those power supplies It's causing them to fail. So even if you get the power supply rebuilt and somehow get it started You could have a tube that's just completely gone and worthless So you've invested so much time and money into a monitor that's for all accounts Just an old ugly consumer t crt looking Screen with a really washed out murky ugly look So don't overpay for one of these if it's not working But if it is working just realize how much time it could have taken to restore one of these these Take a whole lot of time effort and parts to restore So you could end up with You know one of these that has had so much work done to it And you're paid four or five times as much to have it restored as you did invest originally into the crt Again, I don't recommend this one for anybody that is not an experienced kind of Uh Tinkerer or someone who understands crt's a bit and wants to work inside of them because eventually you most likely have to I would recommend it if it's one that you know, if you do like it make sure that you get it serviced prior to picking it up if you Don't have any intention of ever servicing it yourself Make sure that you do have it serviced before you really go get it because again, it could just be a full on can of worms More or less to say On the repair. Hey guys, thanks again for watching today I'm going to try and have a second quick upload this week and talk to you a little bit more about a terrible Shipping experience I had we're also at the two-year point coming up in june For retro tech the channel I did want to reiterate that I have been restoring crt's obviously for years before that before I started the channel But the actual channel is coming up in june to be two years old So, uh, hopefully I'll be able to come up with a really cool clip video for that Thanks everybody for watching and I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content